New Zealand Walks: Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks

Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks

Phillip Donnell explores the attractions of Marvellous Marlborough.

On Karaka Point, Marlborough, an isolated pa overlooking the sea, stands a carved wooden pouwhenua of Kupe, the mythical tupuna, or ancestor figure, locked in battle with the giant octopus Te Wheke o Muturangi, which he fought in Tory Channel.

Local place names and traditions suggest that Kupe discovered what is now Marlborough. In Māori traAbove top: Peaceful Anakiwa. Below left: Picton Harbour at dawn. Below right: Davies Bay, Queen Charlotte Sound. dition a taniwha called Tuhirangi (probably a dolphin) guided him. The remains of early Polynesian settlers were found at Wairau Bar. Māori made adzes from argillite rock, found on Rangitoto ki te Tonga (D’Urville Island).

The northeast corner of Te Waipounamu (the South Island) is part of Te Tau Ihu o te Waka-a-Māui (the prow of Māui’s canoe). Marlborough as a whole, however, did not have a Māori name, as some eight separate iwi occupied different parts and simply gave names to their own jurisdictions. The largest such area was Wairau. Nine local chiefs signed the Treaty of Waitangi on 17 June, 1840, but it took the 2014 Te Tau Ihu settlement for the Maori names of more than 30 landmarks to be officially recognised.

Captain James Cook was the first European to visit, arriving in 1770 in his waka the Endeavour. Subsequent European names in this region focus on British war heroes, in particular the 1st Duke of Marlborough, an English general and statesman.

Blenheim (Waiharakeke – “flax stream”) recalls the Battle of Blenheim (1704), where troops led by this general defeated a combined French and Bavarian force.

Picton (Waitohi – a baptismal rite) is named after Sir Thomas Picton, the Welsh military associate of the Duke

of Wellington, who was killed at the Battle of Waterloo. His connection to the slave trade and controversial governorship of Trinidad have resulted in calls for the town to be renamed.

Sir Henry Havelock, commander of the British forces in India, was involved in putting down the Indian Mutiny of 1857. His son served under General Cameron during the NZ Land Wars, participating in the siege of Orakau in 1864.

On the hinterland surrounding these towns a thriving wine industry has developed. According to Marlborough District Council, some 28,846 hectares of Marlborough (2.75% of the total land area) is planted in grapes. The reason that it can seem like Marlborough is overrun with vines is that the area is best suited for viticulture also happen to be near where most of the roads run, as both roads and vines benefit from flat or gently rolling country. Some of the best Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris in the world is produced here.

About 28% of Marlborough is pasture, and 20% is native forest, but half isn’t used for anything – it’s just left in its wild state.

Such wilderness domains are ideal for outdoor pursuits. Mount Richmond Forest Park has an extensive network of tracks and huts, including part of the Te Araroa Trail.

My favourite is the loop of Lake Chalice (9km, three to four hours). Richmond is complemented by the St Arnaud Range in the west, the Amuri Range in the south, and the Seaward/ Inland Kaikoura Ranges to the east.

Tapuae-o-Uenuku, in the Inland Kaikōura Range, is 2885 metres high, the highest point in New Zealand outside the Southern Alps. These hills and mountains offer a plethora of perambulatory possibilities.

Nelson Lakes National Park is viewed by some as the most scenic in New Zealand. It straddles two magnificent alpine lakes (Rotoiti and Rotoroa), fed by rivers flowing down Above: On the Pelorus Track, Marlborough. Below left: On the Lake Chalice Loop. Below right: Climbing to Bushline Hut above Lake Rotoiti.

Waka, Wars, Wines and Walks

three parallel pristine valleys, the Travis, Sabine and D’Urville.

Whether it is on short saunters around Kerr Bay (e.g. Brunner Peninsula one hour 30 minutes), or slightly more challenging ventures (e.g. Bushline Hut Loop four to five hours), you cannot help but be buoyed by the quality of the vistas that open up before you in quick succession.

From St Arnaud, it’s possible to drive through the remote tussock and tarns of Rainbow Station to the relaxing hot springs of a true spa town – Hanmer Springs. It contains the largest outflows of thermal water in the South Island, which are balm to the body after a day of strolling the gentle forest walks that make this remote resort so pleasant and picturesque. Both are excellent therapy!

The 257km long Wairau River, and 230km Waiau Toa/Clarence River snake their way from the high country to the ocean. Marlborough’s 1,893 kilometres of coastline incorporate the long tentacles of Queen Charlotte, Pelorus, Kenepuru and Mahau Sounds, along with Cook Strait.

These features add to the numerous walking opportunities. Best known are the famous Queen Charlotte Track (71km) from Ship Cove to Anakiwa, and the Kaikoura Point Walkway (two to three hours).

Less known are the beautiful walks around Whites Bay or Pukatea, where Arper Ailsworth took up residence with local Māori after abandoning an American whaling ship in 1828.The Maori nicknamed him “Black Jack White.”

No visitor to the Marlborough region should miss ambling around Sir Peter Jacksons’ Aviation Heritage Centre at Omaka, divided into the Knights of the Sky (WW1) and Dangerous Skies (WW2) exhibitions.

Both feature mannequins made by Weta Workshop, and original, flyable static aircraft in larger-than-life dioramas, capturing specific snapshots in history. Rare memorabilia are on display, worthy of any international collection, ranging from beautifullycrafted “trench art” through to personal items belonging to the famous Red Baron himself!

If your appetite is whetted, why not join the one-week walking excursion to Marlborough scheduled for 5-11 February 2023 by Footsteps Walking Club of Aotearoa New Zealand? It is a no-frills, low-cost outing, where you choose how much walking you want to do, all with the company of likeminded enthusiasts and the security of experienced leaders. Full details are on their website (www.footstepswalkingclub.com). You can contact Footsteps by phone (021 172 3244) or email them (footstepsanz@gmail.com). They would be delighted to have your participation on a visit to this marvellous region of our country!

FOOTSTEPS

TONGARIRO CROSSING SHUTTLES

-come and hike through our magic landscape-

5.45am - 7.15am - 8.30am - 9.45am departures $45per person for return trip www.tongarirocrossingshuttles.co.nz Tongariro National Park a Dual World Heritage Site Above: Lake Rotoiti from Mount Robert. Below: Marlborough cloud over Kenepuru.

OFFERING THE BEST DAY WALKS IN 20 REGIONS OF NEW ZEALAND!

Each region has a week-long package (for 6-10 people), including transport and accommodation. We welcome your enquiry: footstepsanz@gmail.com or phone 021 172 3244 www.footstepswalkingclub.com 36 Walking New Zealand, issue no 294 - 2022

PRICES FROM AUGUST 1 2022