My Favourite Walk: Tramping Te Apiti - the

Tramping Te Apiti - the

narrow passage By Daniel Haddock

Above: An informative whare with impressive displays of Maori history and Te Apiti events over the years. Below left: The 6.2 metres high, 1,5 metres wide, 1.2 metres deep steel statue of Whataonga.

“It is the only place in New Zealand where a river begins its journey on the opposite side of the main divide to where it joins the sea. With its native bush and wildlife, Te Āpiti is a time capsule that preserves the bush that once covered the Manawatū, a place frozen in time.” (Te Apiti-Manawatu

Gorge- Te whenua me te tāhuhu koreroHorizons Regional Council)

Sunday, July 3rd dawned with a frost in Havelock North as 10 Heretaunga Tramping Club members boarded the van accompanied by one car of four members for the trip to the 11.3 km. Manawatu Gorge Track. Another driver was picked up in Norsewood and David joined in Dannevirke.

“In April 2017, the Manawatu Gorge was closed again due to a large slip. Contractors were pulled out of clearing the slip in July 2017 due to ongoing geological movement in the hill, closing the road indefinitely.” So five years on, the closure necessitated dropping off one group at the eastern entrance, Ferry Road Reserve. The van was then driven back to the western Ashhurst end where those remaining parked the van/car and started the track.

The eastern entrance was marked by a whare of detailed historical/ current information of this unique reserve above the Manawatū River, which the Rangitane Iwi named Te Au Rere a Te Tonga, meaning ‘the rushing current of the south’.

The track was well-maintained and featured an array of signage along the journey. The trail climbed and descended in long sections.

Viewpoints

There are five viewpoints which “give spectacular vistas of the river, road, railway, reserve and turbines at nearby windfarms” (DOC). Each stop was a few metres off the track and well-worth the detour. You could hear the turbines well before getting up close and personal with them. Standing above the river along the various viewpoints, you could see where the railway tunnel entered on the Woodville side.

Ferns, birds and nikau palms

Te Apiti is an isolated remnant of native podocarp forest. (PNCC.govt. nz) Much of the flora was identified

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with signs providing a break as you strode up hills and down dale.

The reserve is one of the only places where the giant maiden hair fern is found in the wild. Eleven other ferns were labelled along the trail including the kowaowao/hound’s tooth fern, mokimoki/fragrant fern, kiwikiwi/creek fern, pikopiko/hen and chicken fern, the petipeti/crown fern and the shining spleenwort which is only found in New Zealand and the Kermadecs. (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge Environment)

We heard a lot of birds but did not see that many. Apart from those we see commonly in Hawkes Bay, these birds inhabit the area as well: popokatea/whitehead, kahu/swamp harrier, karearea/falcon, miromiro/ North Island tomtit, and titipounamu/rifleman.

A clever addition were the clusters of silver poles in various locations with the bird’s name, picture and

Above right: From a viewpoint looking back showing the closed road on the left and the rail line entering a tunnel on the right. Photo FQG Below left: An impressive Northern Rata tree that were once common in the Ruahine Range but have largely been eliminated through deer and

possum browsing. Photo Glenda Hooper

Below right: Daniel on a swing!

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Tramping Te Apiti - the narrow passage

a QR code you could scan to hear their call.

There were extensive stands of beautiful nikau palms along sections of the track. The only palm species native to mainland New Zealand, it

Above: One of the many wind turbines on the ranges.

Below left: The new road to Palmerston North and the bridge over the

Manawatu River. is the most southerly growing palm in the world. It can grow up to 15 metres tall, and produces berries that are a favourite food of the kereru. It provided building materials, a food source and was used as a laxative. (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge Plants)

Whatonga the Explorer

Perhaps the most stunning sight was the 6.2 metres high, 1,5 metres wide, 1.2 metres deep steel statue of Whataonga. He was one of the three chiefs on board the Kurahaupo Waka which journeyed across the Pacific to New Zealand in the 12th Century. He is the Tipuna for the local Rangitane iwi.

Whatonga was based in Cape Kidnappers but continued exploring by sailing up the West Coast to the mouth of the Manawatu River. The predominant mangopare or hammerhead shark pattern makes this a breath-taking monument and creates an amazing atmosphere all its own high in the reserve. This is a mustsee sculpture!! (Te Apiti-Manawatu Gorge Maori History)

Homeward Bound

It was one of those winter excursions where more than once the wind kicked up, the temperature dropped and many of us put on extra gear.

Then later on, it warmed up again and the gear was stuffed back in our packs. Eventually the two parties met just after half-way and enjoyed lunch together. Being such a short distance from Palmerston North meant that there were lots of others enjoying the walk that day as well.

We continued to the Ashhurst end and waited for the other group to finish their journey. There was another informative whare with impressive displays of Maori history and Te Apiti events over the years.

The new Manawatu-Tararua Highway was visible west of Woodville cutting through below the Saddle Road and exiting onto a bridge at the Ashhurst end. It certainly looked a better option than the present one.

We jumped back in the van and Camp Mother Jude did another one of her famous head counts and we headed back to Havelock North.

AUGUST 293 2022

2 Heatrub 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: My Favourite Walk: The Grampian Track for those looking for a little adventure 10 New Zealand Walk: To Mordor,

Emyn Muiland and Mount Doom 14 New Zealand Walk: Pukawa to

Omori Track 15 Queen Charlotte Track 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 18 Overseas Walks; Britain on foot:

Short strolls, long hikes 20 New Zealand Walks: York Road

Loop Track -walking over an old railway line 24 Overseas Walks: See Victoria on two feet 27 New Zealand Walk: Rimutaka

Trig Trail Te Ara

Tirohanga 28 New Zealand Walks: Enjoyable walking on and around Volcanic fields in Auckland 32 Walkworth Walks turn lucky 13 36 Auckland Walks: Five ideas for a winter family walk 38 Push Play compaign re-launched 40 Need2Know: FAQ about a distress beacon 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52Taupo Marathon JULY 292 2022 2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Tantalizing

Taranaki 10 New Zealand Walk: Autumn walks in McClaren Falls Park 13 New Zealand Guided Walks: Not all who wander are lost 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walking Access

Commission: Call to protect access on stewardship land 21 Tour: Walk the Queen Charlotte

Track staying on the ship Sweet

Georgia 22 New Zealand Walks: Oxford Forest walking tracks 24 My Favourite Walk: Coopers

Creek to Ryde Falls 26 Overseas Walks: Walking through history in Ieland 33 Books: I will make you Passionate about Exercise - Build your Immunity Day by

Day - Grape Expectations 34 High Achiever: Celia Wade -Brown the outdoor explorer 36 New Zealand Walk/Cycle Trail:

River Road to Clive over a great

Hawkes Bay landscape 40 Need to Know: How to use a distress beacon 42 Shared Pathway: Lake Dinstan

Cycle Trail awarded Great Ride status 44 High Achiever: Bridging the gaps up in the North 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals JUNE 291 2022

2 Queen Charlotte Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: The Abel

Tasman Coastal Track - has experiences to suit you 11 New Zealand Walk: Dashing

Rocks Walkway with stunning views of the bay 12 Australian Walk: Mossman Gorge in a thriving rainforest 14 News: Te Araroa needs more volunteers 14 Need 2 know: Regular walking will make you fit and healthy 17 New Zealand Walk: Wanaka

Lavender Farm walk 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walks: From Capital to

Kapiti and on to Castlecliff 22 News: Tracks to be built by Transmission Gully Project 24 Great Walks: The Kepler Track - a wilderness adventure above the clouds 30 New Zealand Walk: Hatea Loop

Walkway links town with Pohe

Island 34 New Zealand Walks: Three scenic tracks reopened in Waitakere

Ranges 35 New Zealand Walks: Gibbons, Pararaha Valley Track and Muir Track 36 New Zealand Walks: Ashburton to

Hakatere River Lake Hood trails 38 New Zealand Walks: Six of the best walks for bird spotting around

Auckland 40 New Zealand Walk: Seaview Gardens Reserve 38 Australian Walk: Wiradjuri Trail - a track that winds around Wagga

Wagga 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals MAY 290 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Waikanae Estuary, lagoon and river walk 11 New Zealand Walk: Hamilton Lake

Walkway a popular walking route 12 New Zealand Walk: Breathtaking views on Mt Fyffe adventure 15 New Zealand Walks: Walks and hikes in the Mt Fyffe/Seaward

Kaikoura Range 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walks: Turning Points 22 New Zealand Walks: Routeburn

Track an ultimate alpine adventure 28 Australian Walks: Five great walks in Australia 31 My Favourite Walks: Fascinating walks around Golden Bay and beyond 36 New Zealand Guided Walks: Going guided on the Paparoa Trail 37 New Zealand Walks: Put on your walking shoes and hit the trails 41 Subscription page 42 Little feet walk the length of New

Zealand 44 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 ECHO Walking Festival

APRIL 289 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Autumn ambles at the end of the golden weather 10 New Zealand Walk: Mirror Lakes world famous for beauty 12 Need2Know: DOC’S top five wildlife photography tips 14 New Zealand Walk: Spinnaker

Lookout Walk 15 New Zealand Walk: Take a walk along Waiheke Island’s Art Tail 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 18 My Favourite Walk: Walks: Walking amongst the rock pillars of the

Rock and Pillar Conservation Area 24 New Zealand Walks: Hikes and

Walks out East 29 New Zealand Walk: Wairoa River

Walk and Cycleway 30 New Zealand Walk: Walking through an Arboreal Ark 36 New Zealand Walk: An arboretum wau ot there? 37 New Zealand Walks: Put on your walking shoes and hit the trails 40 New Zealand Walk: The Greytown

Trail an idyllic 5km walk 44 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 ECHO Walking Festival MARCH 288 2022

2 The Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: St James Walkway - through pastoral land, beech forest and sub-alpine regions 13 New Zealand Walk: Five days four nights on the St James Walkway 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 18 Auckland Walks: Five half-day hikes around Auckland 20 My Favourite Walk: Walking around

Mangere Mountain Domain 25 New Zealand Walk: Morrinsville

River Walk through mature trees 26 Triple peaks 2022 - Your Summer getaway event 29 My Favourite Walk: Taking time again on Tongariro 29 New Zealand Walk: Taranaki Falls

Walk with excellent mountain views 9 Subscription page 30 New Zealand Walks: Great Barrier

Island Aotea Track for a bit of a challenge 35 New Zealand Short Walk: Scenic reserve for an easy short walk 36 New Zealand Walk: Discover Pelorus Sound and historic Nydia Track 42 Training: Training programme to walk a marathon 43 Index of previous 14 issues 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Wilderness Guides FEBRUARY 287 2022

2 Goldfields 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: White sand, green forest, brown kiwi - an island holiday like nowhere else 9 Subscription page 10 New Zealand Walks: Footprints of Toi walk, Whakatane, Bay of Plenty 12 New Zealand Walks: Nga Tapuwae o Toi Walkway 14 New Zealand Walk: Awapikopiko

Reserve for a picnic and a short walk 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 18 High Achievers: The women that champion outdoor access 20 Shared Trails: Dunstan Trail links

Cromwell with Clyde 24 New Zealand Walks: Waihi Beach to

Houmanga Bay 29 New Zealand Walks: Four short walks from Waihi Beach 30 New Zealand Walks: Nowell’s

Lakes Walkway where you will enjoy nature 35 Need2Know: Don’t go missing, go hiking 36 Australian Walk: Lake Hart - walking on salt 38 New Zealand Walk: Ongaonga Village - steeped in history 40 New Zealand Walks: Hacket Track a feature in Mt Richmond Forest park 43 Index of previous 14 issues 44 Manawatu Striders Super Seven

Series 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Wilderness Guides JANUARY 286 2022

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 News: YHA closes 11 hostels 6 Te Araroa Trail: Te Araroa walkers get creative to complete trail journey 7 New Zealand Walks: Walking through old forest in Whirinaki 13 New Zealand Walks: Ohakune walks for all fitness types 16 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 18 New Zealand Walks: Back to the 70-Mile Bush 22 New Zealand Walk: A walk to see fascinating geology in the Far North 24 Oversesas tours: Bike, boat and barge new tours in France 26 New Zealand Walk: Beyond Motu Falls - a magic breathing and conservation space 32 New Zealand Walks: A feast of waterfall walks in the Bay of Plenty 36 Directory of Walking Groups 40 New Zealand Walks: Ohakune Old Coach Road steeped in history 42 News: West Coast commits to stronger focus on walkers 43 Index of previous 14 issues 44 Manawatu Striders Super Seven Series 45 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals DECEMBER 285 2021

2 Goldfields Cavalade 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Paparoa Trail: with alpine tops, limestone karst landscapes and thriving rain forests 13 New Zealand Walk: More to

Explore in Kerikeri 14 New Zealand Walks: Three interesting walks in Egmont National Park 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly Photo Contest 22 High Achiever: Regeneration the Bradley way 24 New Zealand Walk: Beehive Creek a zig zag through creek walk 26 New Zealand Walks: Summer in the South 29 New Zealand Walks: A chance to walk throughout New Zealand 30 High Achiever: Bringing the fun by going to work with an e-bike 30 New Zealand Walk: Wenderholm Regional Park walks for a workout 32 New Zealand Walk: Lighthouse popular with photographers 33 New Zealand Walk: Waipapa Point Coastal walk - for seabirds and marine mammals 34 Directory of Walking Groups 38 New Zealand Walks: 10 beautiful walks in Queenstown 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Real Meals NOVEMBER 284 2021

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Five exhilarating walks in the Tongariro/Kaimanawa area 9 High Achiever: Ronnie gets back on the bike at age 72 10 New Zealand Walk: A Winter beach walk south of

Waitarere 12 New Zealand Walk: The Pakihi

Track for total seclusion 18 High Achievers: Three women take up 1000km challenge 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 22 High Achiever: Q&A with accommodation provider and trail legend Bill Trolove 24 High Achievers: Unlikely couple meet and live their dream 27 Need2Know: New Pocket Maps app helps walkers explore 28 New Zealand Walk: Waterfalls a feature of Upper Nihotupu

Dam Walk 33 New Zealand Walk: Plans for City to

Sea pathway taking shape 34 Need2Know: Everyday planning for everyday people 36 Subscription page 37 My Favourite Walks: A day tramp in Akaroa - Curry Track/Purple

Peak Track 40 Event: New direction for the

Front Runner Hoka Christchurch

Marathon 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Goldfields Cavalcade OCTOBER 283 2021

2 Banks Track 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walks: Queen Charlotte Track - It’s time to awaken your adventurous soul 10 New Zealand Walk: Port Ligar a truly unique experience 14 New Zealand Walk: Nikau palms and sea stacks at Point Elizabeth 16 Walking Access Commission: Trust to develop and support walking and cycling trails 17 New Zealand Walks: Over 50 walks in this year’s Waiheke Walking Festival 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 22 Event: Tois! Whakatane’s stunning trail challenge 24 Need2Know: The faster you walk, the better for long term health - especially as you age 26 New Zealand Walks: Cobb Vally region - one of the most interesting in the country for trampers and naturalists 32 New Zealand Walks: Papamoa’s two great recreational areas 36 Subscription page 37 Covid-19: What you can and connot do in Level 3 37 Book: Cheers Mate! Walkabout in Australia 38 New Zealand Walk: Pukeiti - a garden of national significance 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Goldfields Cavalcade SEPTEMBER 282 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Great Walk: Great

Walks myth busting 14 New Zealand Wlks: The best of Opotiki: 5 easy walks in the eastern Bay of Plenty 20 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 22 New Zealand Walk: Sea lionsand seals an attraction at Sandfly Bay. 24 Subscription page 25 Need2Know: Indoor pathways improve people’s mental wellbeing 26 Australian Walks; Murray River Safari the latest edition to Australian

Wildlife Journeys 29 Banks Track 30 New Zealand Walk: Grovetown

Lagoon - a great conservation effort in Marlborough 32 Overseas Walk: Explore Rarotonga’s mountainous interior 34 New Zealand Walk: Withering

Heights -Tawarau

Conservation area, King Country 39 Need2Know: New lookout for Bennetts Bay now open 40 High Achievers: Thames Hospital staff scrub in Hauraki Ranges 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo events AUGUST 281 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: Bannockburn

Sluicings NZ’s own ‘wild west’ 8 New Zealand Walk: Cable Bay

Walkway for coastal views 11 New Zealand Walk/Bike: Walking and biking around Napier 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walk: Hooker Valley Track offers awe inspiring landscapes 23 Need2Know: Asking politely will protect outdoor acccess for others 24 Subscription page 25 Need2Know: Locked gates over unformed legal roads 25 Need 2Know: Walking as a sport in 1878 26 My Favourite Walk: Taking time on the Tongariro 28 Te Araroa : Q&A withTe Araroa walker and Wellington trustee

John Craig 29 Banks Track 30 New Zealand Walk: Ghosts of the past: Historic trails across the

Kaimai-Mamaku Park 33 Shared Pathway: Unique boardway opened in Waitara 37 My Favourite Walk: Three tramps in the Ruahine Forest Park 40 Australian Walks: Footing it in Tassie 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo events JULY 280 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 3 Contents 6 New Zealand Walk: Comarderie on the Whareama Coastal Walk 12 Event: Walkers see the new

Manawatu Tararua Highway taking shape 14 New Zealand Walk: Rotokawa

Scenic Reserve - now a predator free area 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 20 New Zealand Walk: Fantail Falls an easy West Coast walk 24 Virtual field trip for school children showcases Te Araroa 24 My Favourite Walk: Linderman

Loop - in the historic Kaimais 28 Around the Clubs: Clubs find advantage in sharing great walks 30 New Zealand Cycle Tour: Best Dam cycling trip in the world - Busting the 315km trail from Mt Cook to Oamaru 38 Australian Walks: Alice Springs for gorges, water holes and red desert landscapes 42 Index of previous 14 issues 43 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 Pak A Roo Jackets 52 Taupo event JUNE 279 2021

2 Queen Charlotte Track - Wilderness Guides 4 Walk Talk 6 New Zealand Walk: Ship Cove walks in old swamp forests 8 New Zealand Walk: Muruwai Walk in Coromandel 10 New Zealand Walks: Somes Island - The MIQ experience 149 years ago11 New Zealand Walk: Somes Island Track 12 My Favourite Walk: Banks Peninsula Track - an unique scenic 3 day trip 14 Need2Know: Egmont National Park tracks upgraded 16 High Achiever: Havelock man’s marathon dream of link to Picton 18 Walking New Zealand Monthly

Photo Contest 20 Australian Walks: Ten best walks and hikes in Tasmania 24 New Zealand Walk: Gabriels Gully interpretation walk 26 Te Araroa Trail: Walking the Te

Araroa Trail as a hotographer and film maker 30 New Zealand Walk: Mt Taranaki summit climb -not for the faint hearted 35 New Zealand Walk: Palliser Vineyard Walk 36 Directory of New Zealand Walking Groups 40 Subscription page 41 Index of previous 14 issues 42 Coming Events: New Zealand 47 Coming Events: Australia 48 New Zealand Walking Tours 48 New Zealand Country Breaks 51 ECHO Walking Festival 52 Taupo Marathon