Twist Travel Magazine #15 by Twist Travel Magazine

ISSUE 015

3 DAYS IN TOFINO

ISLANDS ESCAPES

WHY BALTIMORE IS ON OUR LIST COLORADO'S MUST-SEE PARKS

R ' S NO O IT

KERYN MEANS @keryn_means It's that time of year again. The sun is out, the trees are in full bloom and it's FINALLY time to start planning your next trip. I don't know about you, but after two years of domestic wanderings I'm so ready to get out of the lower 48. Sure, it could be because we moved across the country from Washington, D.C. to Southern California, and I've been in renovation land restoring a classic Craftsman bungalow, but I like to think it's me finally coming out of hibernation. While I may be ready to roll, not everyone is mentally prepared to take that next step. And that's ok, we all need to get back to 'normal' at our own pace. Also, we should all remember that not every country is open to foreign travelers right now, so while you may want to hit the friendly skies to far off lands, you might have to wait a little big longer. Do what YOU are most comfortable with and don't worry about others. Our 15th issue is packed with travel tips, whether you're looking to travel close to home, road trip a few hundred miles, or book that plane ticket to the islands. Our contributing editor Claudia is sharing a few tales from her latest book, A Gelato a Day, one of my favorite reads of the year as it shows family travel in all its' glory - the amazing, the wonderful, the tantrums and the meltdowns - because that IS what traveling with kids is all about. It's not all shiny Instagram photos and TikTok dance duets. As always, we love to see how we can bring our travels back into our home, whether that means picking up a new outdoor lantern for the patio to remind us of trips to Morocco, or a summer read that will take you through Charm City (Baltimore). And it wouldn't be summer without new recipes and some epic brunch cocktails. Let's dig into the season and really make this summer the best ever!

Contributors

Caryll Anne B. Marbella

Claudia Laroye

Ethan Gelber

Erin Gierhart

Designer

claudiatravels.com IG @itsclaudiatravels

thetravelword.com IG @bikeabout

stateofdinner.com IG @stateofdinner

Heather Mundt momfari.com IG @momfari

Rob Taylor 2Traveldads.com IG @2traveldads

Tawny Clark captainandclark.com IG @captainandclark

Katja Gaskell

Lindsay Garbacik

IG @kathrynanywhere

globetotting.com IG @globetotting

IG @lindsaygarbacik

Shahnaz Hossain

Tai Kojro-Badziak

Tamara Gruber

shaythewriter.com IG @shay_the_writer

tkb.studio IG @tkb.studio

we3travel IG @we3travel

Kathryn Dickson

Tyler Mallory tylermallory.com IG @tylermalloryphotos

Storm Twist Puppy Mascot

Rogue & Jean Grey Twist Kitten Mascots

Life is either a daring adventure or nothing at all. -- Helen Keller

Issue No. 15

Publisher: Walking On Media LLC Editor-in-Chief: Keryn Means Contributing Editors: Claudia Laroye and Tawny Clark European Editor: Katja Gaskell Designers: Caryll Anne B. Marbella Cover Photo: Christine Baumgarten For editorial inquiries, please contact: keryn@walkingontravels.com Sales Offices: Los Angeles, CA London, UK Vancouver, Canada For advertising inquiries, please contact: keryn@walkingontravels.com Please send all general questions and inquiries to: twisttravelmag@gmail.com COPYRIGHT NOTICE: Twist Travel Magazine is published by ©2022 Walking On Media LLC No part of this magazine may be reproduced without permission of the publisher. Digital issue may contain affiliate links. WWW.TWISTTRAVELMAG.COM

PHOTO BY ROB TAYLOR

Table of Contents

4 | TWIST

5 | THE TWIST

21 | 3-DAYS IN TOFINO, BC

It's time to shine in the summertime with lanterns for your garden, sneakers for dresses and so much more!

Discover the natural beauty and active adventures in Tofino, Canada, with our 3-day village guide.

6 | SEASONAL FAVORITES

24 | SHE GETS AROUND: EVIE FARRELL

Crushing on creatively upcycled clothes and jewels, summer splashes of artwork and Charm City books.

Meet the author, influencer, blogger and travel expert who traveled full time with her young daughter.

9 | GLOBAL FLAVORS

29 | 1000 ISLANDS

Big flavors and zingy Thai and Mexican inspired recipes plus the best shortcake for your summer BBQ.

A magical summer exploring the picturesque 1000 Islands region straddling the St. Lawrence River.

15 | STYLE TREND ALERT! SNEAKERS

34 | COLORADO'S NATIONAL PARKS

Dresses with sneakers may seem odd to some, but for those in the know, it is the best thing to hit your feet.

How to avoid national park crowds by the author of the new guidebook "Colorado Family Outdoor Adventure."

16 | ECO DESTINATIONS

39 | TWIST FAVORITES: ISLAND BOUTIQUE HOTELS

It's easier being green when you plan travels to one of these eco-friendly North American destinations.

From Key West, Florida, to Naxos, Greece, we're spotlighting five of our favorite island boutique hotels.

18 | TRAVEL 101: A GELATO A DAY

51 | SPOTLIGHT ON BALTIMORE

A chat with Claudia Laroye about her new book of insightful stories on the highs and lows of family travel.

Get ready to fall under the spell of Charm City, where history, art and amazing food collide in this harbor city.

the

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE SEASON

It's time to shine in the summertime! Get inspired as the summer months arrive bringing sunny days, warm nights and hopefully some summer travels. Bring some spice to the dinner table, go old school with your cocktails, discover eco-conscious destinations and pick up a new beach read or two. Whatever you do, make sure you have fun in the sunshine!

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Seasonal

Favorites BY LINDSAY GARBACIK

Cliffside at Point Lobos Art Print society6.com • $25

Rami T-Shirt ecoalf.com • $98

Refresh your home this summer with an art print that will remind you of the excitement of travel. TristanVision, a Los Angeles based travel photographer, captures moments of natural beauty and creates stunning prints. Summer is the perfect time to bring in some color and change up your decor.

Made from organic and recycled cottons this shirt is entirely vegan, with a cute yet powerful message, “Because there is no Planet B”. Throw it on with white shorts or a tennis skirt. The brand is committed to giving back to the ocean with its most recent collection Lost Colors.

10L rolltop rucksack wyattandjack.com • $98

With a water resistant exterior and a large zippable vessel, this is a great option for a beach bag. No more worrying about sand ruining your canvas totes! This British brand crafts bags and accessories from upcycled deckchair canvas, broken bouncy castles and inflatables. Davinci Vegan Clogs goodguysdontwearleather. com • $131

Mules are back in a big way this season. Easy to slide on and pair with any outfit, you’ll find yourself turning to your clogs all summer long. These vegan leather clogs are waterproof and just over two inches high.

Nourishing Hair Oil sayadesigns.com • $40 Summer is a great time to nourish your hair, especially after spending long days in the sun. The organic formula contains argan oil, vetiver, geranium and petitgrain. Better yet it comes in entirely recyclable packaging; the box is handmade from vegetable ink and papaya fruit pulp.

Hilo Surf Bag sagebrushbags.com • $140 It’s beach season which means it’s time to break out the surfboards. Protect your board in style with a handmade surf bag made from recycled materials. Relatively thick and available to suit a variety of board sizes, treat yourself to this cute accessory for a fun summer catching waves.

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Protection Ring chicmadeconsciously.com • $75

This unique ring was designed in Toronto and crafted by a team of artisans in Cambodia using repurposed war remnants. Reclaimed brass includes bullet shell casings and landmine shrapnels leftover from the Cambodian Civil War. The upcycled jewelry brand prides itself on being fair trade.

Unconstructed Cap dedicatedbrand.com • $39

Wear the world on your hat with this fun graphic baseball cap. Made using 100% organic cotton canvas, the hat is available in black, white or tie dye. The brand focuses heavily on sustainability, using only fibers that are 100% natural or recycled.

Books

Baltimore

BY KERYN MEANS • TWISTTRAVELMAG.COM

CHARM CITY: A WALK THROUGH BALTIMORE

By Madison Smartt Bell • BUY IT

Charm City is just full of surprises, from amazing attractions, parks and bakeries, to the stories of the residents who live in Baltimore's eclectic neighborhoods. It's time to dive into a few biographies, works of fiction and non-fiction you will want to add to your summer reading list. WARNING: these aren't your average beach reads!

THE IMMORTAL LIFE OF HENRIETTA LACKS

By Rebecca Skloot • BUY IT

This incredible book tells the tale of Henrietta Lacks who changed the medical world without even knowing it. Born a poor black tobacco farmer, her cancer cells were taken without her knowledge and became one of the most important tools in medicine. Fascinating and heartbreaking. THE BEAUTIFUL STRUGGLE: A FATHER, TWO SONS, AND AN UNLIKELY ROAD TO MANHOOD

By Ta-Nehisi Coates • BUY IT

This memoir follows the lives of two boys growing up in 1980s Baltimore, a city that was on the verge of chaos. It's a coming of age story, an examination of the father-son relationship and the struggle of the young African American male growing up in this era. Powerful and unforgettable.

Think of this book as a love letter to Baltimore. Written by acclaimed novelist and longtime Baltimore resident Madison Smart Bell, Charm City exmaines what makes Baltimore tick.

DIGGING TO AMERICA

By Anne Tyler • BUY IT

Two families adopt infant girls from Korea on the same day and subsequently meet annually to celebrate with an 'arrival party'. It's a pageturner of a novel and one that question whether identity is a matter of choice or inherited. CHARM CITY: A TESS MONAGHAN NOVEL

By Laura Lippman • BUY IT

Tess Monaghan is a reporter turned PI who's charged with investigating a mysterious murder in her native Baltimore only to discover that the city is more dangerous than she thought.

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Light Up YOUR SUMMER NIGHTS! BY KERYN MEANS • TWISTTRAVELMAG.COM

Summer means warm nights outside as the sun begins to set, campfires with s'mores and a romantic glass of wine by candlelight. Lanterns also bring me back to trips to Morocco, Jordan and even Italy. They set the mood for a relaxing night outdoors as you listen to the crickets, frogs or even a mariachi band playing at the quinceañera down the street. No matter your style, we've found a cheap and easy way to light up the night all season long.

$40.99

$16.99 Moroccan Lanterns by Vela

Natural Rattan Solar Lantern

$14.99 (for 2) Glintoper Outdoor Hanging Metal Lattice Lantern

$24.99

$39.99 - $49.99 Lights4fun Wooden Battery Operated LED Lantern

Lace Globe Lantern

$36.99

Solar Mason Jar Lights

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ERIN GIERHART stateofdinner.com • IG @stateofdinner

thai cashew chicken Thai Cashew Chicken is the perfect dinner for when you are short on time but you still want something that is big on flavor. In Thailand this dish is known as Gai Pad Med Mamuang, which means chicken stir fry with cashew nuts.

INGREDIENTS ⅓ cup low sodium soy sauce 1 tablespoon fish sauce 2 tablespoon ketchup ¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes adjust according to your spice preference pinch black pepper 1 pound chicken 2 tablespoon cornstarch 2 teaspoon sesame oil (canola oil can be used instead) ½ red bell pepper, sliced ½ yellow onion, sliced 3 cloves garlic, minced 1 inch ginger root, minced ½ cup basil, sliced ½ cup cashews

INSTRUCTIONS In a small bowl, mix sauce ingredients and set aside. Dice chicken into 1-inch cubes. Toss in cornstarch to coat. Once fully coated, shake off any excess. Slice onions, peppers, and basil. In a large skillet or wok, heat oil over mediumhigh heat. Cook chicken for about 3-4 minutes without stirring, until brown on one side. Flip chicken over, then add onions, pepper, garlic, ginger, and basil to the pan. Cook an additional 3-4 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add sauce and simmer for 2 minutes until it thickens. Add cashews. Serve over rice.

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MEXICAN WILD RICE Mexican wild rice is a delicious alternative to a traditional Mexican rice recipe. The warm spices of the Mexican seasonings are complimented by the slightly nutty flavor and chewy texture of the wild rice. INGREDIENTS 4 ounces wild rice (a little over a half cup) 5 cups water or chicken broth 2 tablespoons oil 2 cloves garlic 8 ounces tomato sauce 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon cumin 1/2 teaspoon chili powder 1/4 cup cilantro

INSTRUCTIONS Place wild rice and water or chicken broth in a large saucepan and cover with a lid. Bring water to a boil over high heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 50-60 minutes. Rice should be tender but chewy. If it is still crunchy, continue cooking. Pour into a strainer. Refrigerate if not using immediately (this step can be made a day ahead). Heat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add rice, tomato sauce, salt, cumin, and chili powder, and cook until the sauce has mostly been absorbed. Add cilantro and cook an additional minute, then serve.

BLUEBERRY STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE Blueberry Strawberry Shortcake is a fun twist on a classic dessert! Nothing screams summer like fresh berries with piles of whipped cream and this recipe focuses on the natural goodness of the fruit flavors, paired with a soft and tender shortcake. INSTRUCTIONS Hull strawberries and cut in half or quarters, depending on size. Mix with sugar and place in refrigerator while you make the shortbread. This will allow juices to develop. Using a whisk attachment for your hand or stand mixer, beat 1 ½ cups heavy cream on medium-high speed until it thickens. Add in sugar and vanilla, and continue beating until soft peaks form. Store in refrigerator until ready to use. Preheat oven to 425°F. In a large bowl, combine flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, salt, and baking powder. Cut butter into the flour mixture with a pastry cutter, or using the pulse-feature of a food processor, until coarse crumbs form. Add heavy cream and mix until combined. The dough will still be very crumbly. Turn onto a floured surface and pull all dough together to form a ball. Knead for one minute. Roll dough ½-inch thick and cut into 3-inch circles using a biscuit cutter or a dinner glass. Place onto a lined or greased baking sheet, close together where they are touching. Brush each shortcake with remaining heavy cream and sprinkle with coarse sugar. Bake 10-15 minutes until golden brown. Cool for 10 minutes before assembling. Slice each shortcake horizontally and layer with strawberries, blueberries, and whipped cream. Serve immediately.

INGREDIENTS BERRIES 1 pint ripe, well-rinsed strawberries 1 pint ripe, well-rinsed blueberries 3 tablespoons granulated sugar (38 grams)

WHIPPED CREAM 1 1/2 cups heavy cream (12 ounces) 3 tablespoons granulated sugar (38 grams) 1 teaspoon vanilla extract

SHORTCAKE 4 cups all-purpose flour 3 tablespoon granulated sugar ¼ teaspoon salt 5 teaspoon baking powder ¾ cups cold butter, sliced thinly or grated 1 ½ cups heavy cream, plus 2tsp to brush on top

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COCKTAILS amy DreBellini

In a flute, or a fabulous cut crystal coupe, layer in 1 part roasted peach syrup, and top with prosecco.

The original Bellini was crafted in 1948 by Giuseppe Cipriani, the fabled owner and barman at Harry’s Bar in Venice. When he first blended white peach puree and prosecco, did he have any idea of the impact this drink would have? Its luminescent pink color inspired the name Bellini, referencing the revolutionary Venetian painter of the 1500s - his skyscapes often carry the dreamy peach and pinks of this very drink. Mix yourself a batch and daydream of gondolas and campaniles! INGREDIENTS: 3 peaches (preferably white, but any lovely peach will do) (cut in half, skin on, pits removed) 3 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar (dark will be ok if you can’t find white but it will muddy the color) ½ teaspoon ground cloves, or a teaspoon whole cloves Simple syrup (1 cup sugar; 1 cup water, recipe below) Proseco

ROASTED PEACHES: Roasted peaches: preheat oven to 400. Mix the peaches, balsamic vinegar and cloves together in a bowl, then spread into a baking dish (8x8 or 9x13 will do). Roast about 20 or 25 minutes until they are falling apart and smell amazing. (No heat alternative and if your peaches are super ripe: cut the peaches into ½” cubes. Scrape peaches and juice into a bowl with the balsamic and cloves. Use your fingers to smoosh it all together, releasing more juice. Set aside in the fridge overnight. Smoosh some more) ROASTED SYRUP Mix 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Reduce heat, stir to dissolve all sugar. Add all the peaches and all the syrup. Cook for about 10 more minutes, stirring consistently. Remove from heat, then strain the mixture through a fine mesh sieve.

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ESPRESSO MARTINI 1 shot fresh brewed espresso (coffee will do, but espresso is thicker and richer) 1 oz vanilla vodka 1 oz white godiva liquor 1 oz dark chocolate godiva liquor 1 oz frangelico, or baileys, or amaretto - or what the hell, some of each Whipped cream

Fill a shaker with ice, pour in the coffee, then the alcohol. Cover and shake vigorously. Strain into a coupe. If you’re feeling it, strain into a coffee mug. Add whipped cream garnish if so desired. A thousand years ago in a different life, I used to open a very fancy downtown bar around 2pm on Sundays. While folks were finishing brunch and shopping, I was wiping tables and setting out garnishes. Gotan Project would come on as I was wiping the zinc bar top, and I’d fix myself an espresso to prepare for the day ahead. I always wanted to join the dreamy urban magic. Instead, I’d fix this cocktail for my favorite regular, and I’d daydream of a time I might drink a caffeinated midday cocktail myself.

espr Espresso esso Martini

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Caffe

Viennoise CAFFE VIENNOISE 2 shots espresso 1 shot walnut liqueur or amaretto Whipped cream garnish In a lovely glass coupe, pour in the coffee; then layer in the liquor. Finish with a snowy white cap of whipped cream

Vienna is one of the most famous cafe cultures in the world, featuring sumptuous cafes frequented by opera stars, psychoanalysts, luminous socialites and Nobel Prize winners. Curiously, the caffe viennoise is not necessarily from Vienna. Fundamentally a coffee (or espresso) with whipped cream (or frothed milk), it sometimes also features a little cocoa. I spike mine with Austrian walnut liquor, which makes it as definitively viennoise as one can hope. Feel free to try some amaretto instead. They key here is brewing a deep, rich, thick coffee. I prefer whipped cream, because the soft sweetness and coldness offsets the heat and depth of the coffee.

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Style Trend Alert:

dresses with sneakers Fashion icons like Megan Fox, Hailey Bieber, and Kendall Jenner are rocking this new pairing and we are here for it. Ditch the high heels. Seriously. Pairing casual, flirty dresses with comfortable sneakers is the latest fashion trend and we screaming. Gone are the days of having to choose between looking chic and preserving our feet. Hollywood has accepted this low key style which means it's now acceptable for us to sport our favorite pair of Vans while we stroll the streets in a flowy skirt or dress. Even better news? Most of the "it" styles are affordable for us non-celebs! The best way to rock this trend is to pair your favorite dress with a white or neutral pair of sneakers like the ones listed below. BY: TAWNY CLARK • TwistTravelMag.com

S U P E R G A

V A N S

A D I D A S

Superga is a beloved brand by celebs. Perhaps because these shoes are effortlessly chic. Our favorite style to pair with a dress is the 2750 Cotu Classic. They're as comfy as they look.

Vans are no longer just for skaters. Our favorite style is the Old Skool Platform sneakers in true white. These literally elevate your look with a platform that's stylish and comfortable.

Not quite ready to plunge into the "dad shoe" trend? We suggest starting with the Adidas Her Court Shoes. These are giving dad shoe vibes but aren't as bulky and still pair well with a dress.

• Shop here •

C O N V E R S E

N I K E

R 1 3

Converse Chucks are iconic in their own right. These low-top canvas sneakers go with nearly everything: from dresses to shorts, pants, and even dress suits!

There's no doubt you've already heard of Nike's iconic Airforce 1. If dad sneakers and sleek Superga had a baby, this would be it. Airforce 1s are perfect for style and comfort

Splurge alert! Billie Eilish and fashion icon Sammi Jefcoate have been seen rocking these luxury sneakers. The price point is high but reflects the quality and durability of each pair.

• Shop here •

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Eco-conscious

Excellent Places to Visit with Kids BY ETHAN GELBER

Recent years of restricted movement have provided helpful clarity about what families love to do when they can travel away from home. One big priority is visiting places that value green spaces and emphasize humanity's role in preserving the environment, especially communities and cultures with strong connections to nature. Here's a handful of welcoming, familyfriendly North American destinations that take this to heart.

SOUTHERN MAINE New England is full of natural areas but Maine's long, island-spotted seaboard and hilly hinterlands – the Southern Coast, Portland, Midcoast and Down east – constitute one of the largest and most alluring. Acadia National Park is the crown jewel, with 158 miles of hiking trails, but outdoor land and water-based activities are encouraged everywhere, including the numerous family-ready preserves and state parks in many habitats. In towns, farm-to-table foods, regional crafts using recovered materials, sustainable local businesses, and environmentally aware hotels and tour operators abound.

Washington, dc In striking counterpoint to government gridlock over climate change policy, the District of Columbia is America's foremost sustainable city by many measures, not least its easy walkability, 7,800 acres of parkland (the most of the U.S.'s most populous cities), list-topping LEED-certified buildings, including hotels (DC is the world's first LEED Platinum city), and numerous locavore restaurants. There's no shortage of educational, socially responsible and diversity-focused sites along the National Mall, and, further afield, greenleaning cultural attractions such as the Woodlawn and Hillwood estates.

Asheville, North Carolina Asheville has firmly embraced responsible tourism. This should come as no surprise, given the small city's hip and progressive environmental sensibilities. In 2021, a local Action Leadership Forum convened to explore weaving equity and resiliency into sustainable tourism to reinforce it as a positive force for all. Visiting families are spoiled by the greater area's verdant beauty in the Western North Carolina Nature Center, North Carolina Arboretum, and many miles of nearby hiking trails. Farmers markets and farm-to-table restaurants round out the health-conscious offering.

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Western National Parks No list of green-centric travel in North America is complete without national parks. On a mission to educate and inspire this and future generations, they are the ne plus ultra of responsible eco-conscious travel. Out in the west, the largest and most famous parks, like Yosemite, Yellowstone, Grand Canyon, and Zion National Parks in the United States, and Canada's Jasper and Banff National Parks, always pack a particularly potent ecological punch, reducing car access, encouraging shuttles and providing informational programming to foster environmental education and park preservation. For full impact, camping/cabins and fireside meals admit a true sense of nature, day and night.

conscientious canada Educational tourism experiences are increasingly the rule in Canada, whether guided by nature appreciation, social awareness or First Nations communities. Winnipeg (Manitoba) hosts the astounding Canadian Museum for Human Rights, the world's first museum dedicated to the subject, and Oak Hammock Marsh, a premier birding hotspot with an awardwinning interpretive center. In Saskatoon (Saskatchewan), Wanuskewin is a newly refurbished heritage park devoted to the cultures of the Northern Plains Indigenous peoples. Vancouver's Stanley Park and Capilano Suspension Bridge Park capture culture and nature together. And that's just the beginning, as the country works towards reconciliation with its Indigenous First Nations, Inuit and Metis people.

RESPOND TO YOUR CALLING

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travel 101

A Gelato a Day; the good, the bad and the not-so-ugly of family travel Interview with Editor Claudia Laroye Twist's Contributing Editor Claudia Laroye is the author of a new travel anthology of stories highlighting the good, the bad, and the not-so-ugly of the family travel experience. Whether it's dealing with toddlers gone wild, taking your teen on the Civil Rights Trail or connecting with an older parent as an adult child, Laroye dishes on how these thoughtful, insightful and funny stories prove that family travel is always worth the effort.

What is A Gelato a Day? A Gelato a Day is a new antholoyg book of travel tales that highlights the good, the bad and the not-really-that-ugly of the family travel experience. These stories go beyond holidays-gone-wrong to dive thoughtfully into the deeper parental and family connections that can occur when we take ourselves (or are taken out of) our daily routines and comfort zones.

What prompted you to WANT TO WRITE this book? I’ve been traveling with my family since I was an infant and raised my own children to be curious and thoughtful travelers. We’ve enjoyed some incredible trips and created wonderful travel memories that span time and keep loved ones who’ve left us deep in our hearts. I had my own special travel story to tell, and believed that others did too, and this formed the idea behind the creation of an anthology focused on family travel stories. In my book proposal research, I read many amazing travel anthologies, but not one focused specifically on family travel. This was a missed opportunity, in my opinion, given that we’ve all been children at some point, and likely traveled with family along the way - with stories and scars to prove it. There’s a market for these stories, given that family travel in its many forms is a huge driver in the travel industry. I signed my book contract in January 2020, right before the pandemic hit. As the world closed and travel stopped, I poured my energy into the book project, inviting writers to contribute stories to the anthology. I was delighted to narrow it down to 20 incredibly diverse, funny and thoughtful stories about traveling with kids, as a kid, and as an adult child with an older parent. There was a bittersweet irony in editing travel stories during a pandemic that shuttered our ability to travel, that's for sure.

Why is family travel seen as such a challenge? I think people can be intimidated by traveling as a family, especially if they have young children. New parents may be nervous about sitting on a plane for six hours with a baby or toddler, while others may be anxious about taking a road trip with a teenager who may only seem interested in WiFi access and peer contact. Part of that fear or anxiety may have to do with personal history (bad family trips of the past), or a lack of knowledge on how to do it right. The good news is that there is no right or wrong way to travel as a family! Start small – a weekend staycation at a hotel here, an overnight camping trip there – and then build upon those experiences and any lessons learned and plan ageand ability-appropriate activities near and then far, as your travel comfort level increases.

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travel 101 A Gelato a Day; the good, the bad and the not-so-ugly of family travel

What is the value of family travel? I’ve written a lot about why traveling as a family is important to both parents and kids. The reasons range from the simple notion that holidays are important for our physical and mental health, that the world is amazing we should go out and enjoy it! I also believe that families should spend time together creating memories together rather than accumulating things, and traveling is one of the best ways to create those lasting memories. Traveling with children can open doors to places and start a dialogue with people. Kids have no hesitation in chatting to people they meet, which encourages adults to be more comfortable engaging with each other as a result. Also, the value of taking ourselves out of our routine and comfort zones and entering unfamiliar places, spaces and situations encourages us to open to one another or react in ways that may surprise, delight, or frustrate those we hold most dear. We discover more about ourselves and our loved ones through the travel experience, and that is priceless knowledge.

Can you tell us about the stories in A Gelato a Day? The stories in A Gelato a Day are some of the most poignant, funny and beautiful stories about traveling with family that I've had the honor to read, written by experienced family travelers and writers living in Canada and the United States. The stories range in time from the 1950s to present day, spanning the globe from the Amazonian jungle to the mountains of Banff, the savannahs of Kenya, waters of the South Pacific, the streets of Old Casablanca and beyond. The writers travel by foot, car, plane, catamaran and riverboat as they discover themselves and the world around them. These stories are an insightful and thoughtful collection of how family travel can reveal those whom we think we know best – ourselves and our loved ones – to one another, creating family memories that last long after the suitcases are unpacked and laundry folded and put away.

A Gelato a Day is available in bookstores on September 1, 2022. You can pre-order the book here.

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3 days in tofino, british columbia

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE

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Perched on the wild west coast of Vancouver Island, in Canada’s westernmost province of British Columbia, the former remote fishing village of Tofino beckons adventure seekers to explore its temperate rainforests, wide, windswept beaches, and the beauty of its rugged coastline. Accessible via car ferry from Vancouver’s Lower Mainland or by float or airplane from the city’s harbor or Vancouver International Airport, Tofino is quite literally at the end of the road, with nothing to the west but the Pacific Ocean and Japan, 4,600 miles (7,000 km) away. Tofino gets a lot of rain - more than 10 feet (3+ meters) per year – and its wild weather has created a popular winter stormwatching season. The shoulder seasons of spring and fall are ideal to enjoy a slower pace of Tofitian life, while summertime makes the village come alive with visitors and families walking or biking along the beach, surfing the ocean waves, and heading out for hikes, whale watching, or the simple joys of exploring tide pools. Visitors to the community will find many accommodation options in and around Tofino. In town, Tofino Resort + Marina is within walking distance to the village, and its marina is home to whale watching and pleasure boats. For luxury accommodation on beautiful Chesterman Beach, it’s the Relais & Chateaux Wickaninnish Inn. Other excellent options include Long Beach Lodge and Pacific Sands Beach Resort on Cox Bay, Middle Beach Lodge, and the newer, funky Hotel Zed. There are also quite a few Bed and Breakfasts, Airbnbs and VRBO house rentals to choose from in Tofino, and in the village of Ucluelet, 30 minutes to the south.

3 days in tofino FIRST DAY: BOATS AND BIKES

Fuel up with great coffee, breakfast sandwiches and donuts at Rhino Coffee in the village. If you need something more substantial, take a seat at 1909 Kitchen at the Tofino Resort + Marina for bowls of warm oatmeal, pancakes or spicy fried egg sandwiches. Head over to the Tofino Resort’s Marine Adventure Center for a whale watching or bear watching tour, depending on the season. These half-day tours bring guests up close (but never too close to harm the wildlife) to Tofino’s many land, bird, and ocean wildlife species, including black bears, wolves, otters, seals,

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loons, cormorants, humpback whales.

orcas

and

If you have older children or are traveling with adults, book a day at the West Coast Floating Sauna Experience. Launched in winter 2022, the wood-fired floating sauna is just 30 minutes by boat from Tofino, deep within a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Relax and enjoy the warm sauna or get active with a paddle on a SUP or kayak before catching your crab or shrimp dinner on the way home. Afterwards, pop over to the Naas Seafood Market across the parking lot from the Adventure Center. This Indigenous-led organization specializes in the creation and sale of hand-harvested kelp products, including kelp seasoning and savory smoked kelp flakes, ideal to sprinkle on seafood, eggs and roasted vegetables. Head south of Tofino to the Live to Surf complex on the Pacific Rim

Highway, where you’ll find bike rentals at Tofino Bike Co. After picking up your pre-booked beach or mountain bikes, pedal towards Chesterman Beach (if beach biking) or along the bike trail that connects to the new Parks Canada multi-use pathway, - ʔapsčiik t̓ ašii (pronounced ups-cheek ta-shee). This 15.5 mile (25 km) pathway through Pacific Rim National Park provides all ages and abilities a safe and accessible way to experience this spectacular national park reserve. Enjoy dinner in the village at local favorite, Wolf in the Fog. The menu is inspired by the oceans, forests and shoreline of Tofino’s beautiful backyard. The craft cocktails (try the Cedar Sour), beer and wine pair well with dishes like potato crusted oysters, seaweed salad, house made pasta, steaks and seasonal dishes.

SECOND DAY: SAND AND SURF Rise and shine for a morning of coldwater surfing lessons at Cox Bay Beach with Surf Sister. Founded in 1999, the local female-owned company has taught everyone from ages 4+ to surf the waves off Tofino’s coast. Surf sessions include wetsuits (you’ll need them!), surfboards and lessons with supportive female instructors, in water that you can stand up in. This is a Tofino ‘must do’.

Surfing is hard work and by the end of your lesson, you’ll be ready to head straight for the Tacofino food truck, located across the Pacific Rim Highway from the beach. Tofino’s original food truck serves tacos and burritos made to order, including vegan, fried baja-style fish, crispy chicken and pork and kimchi tacos. Share a picnic table and swap surf stories with new friends.

THIRD DAY: BEACH DAY Linger over a leisurely brunch at The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn. The menu is served until 2pm and features everything from steel-cut oats to crab fried rice and a delectable smoked salmon rösti. Head out for a guided walk with Long Beach Nature Tours along one of Tofino’s many hiking trails. Stroll through a coastal temperate rainforest of salt-loving Sitka Spruce, hemlock and red cedar trees, or venture on the Nuu-Chah-Nuulth trail to appreciate totem poles and learn of the region’s First Nations history. Continue to Florencia Bay to

If you need a sweet ending to your post-taco feast, stop in at Chocolate Tofino for fresh, hand-crafted chocolates and homemade gelato. Don’t leave without a few chocolate Tofino Bears for home – they’re filled with little chocolate fish and sea creatures, a tasty souvenir. Change into dry clothes and pull on your outer layers and wellies for a long beach walk along one of Tofino’s wide, sandy beaches. Chesterman Beach is calm and scenic, while Cox Bay Beach is more active with surfers and beach bikers. Long Beach is within Pacific Rim National Park, and actually includes several beaches within its 16 km/10 mile stretch; Florencia Bay, Combers, Wickaninnish, Lismer and the small jewel of South Beach.

Walking on the firm sand while the wind blows, fog rolls, rain falls (highly likely), and the surf pounds the shore is a quintessential Tofino experience.

Remember beach safety! Never turn your back on the ocean, walk carefully on wet rocks and always be aware of your surroundings. Dress up for dinner at The Pointe Restaurant at the Wickaninnish Inn. Start with an après cocktail at the restaurant’s On The Rocks Bar (the Feather George was my favorite), then take a seat by the window, overlooking the magnificent view of the Pacific Ocean and Chesterman Beach below. The Pointe’s fine dining menu features sumptuously prepared dishes of local and seasonal ingredients like local crab and prawns, fish, game, and can be made vegan and vegetarian. The outstanding multi-course tasting menu can be paired with local and international wine.

learn of the region’s First Nations history. Continue to Florencia Bay to investigate the tide pools, or take the path towards South Beach to enjoy the rolling waves from a rocky outcrop. Enjoy a Tofitian lunch in the village at Shelter Restaurant; sit outside on the large patio if the weather is fine. Shelter’s extensive seasonal menu features everything from burgers to tacos, chowder to tofu bowls, with lots of options for vegetarians and gluten-free diners. Before leaving town, head to the very tip of Campbell Street towards a small ‘container bakery’ for authentic French baguettes and croissants to

go from the excellent Ouest Artisan Patisserie. Or if craft beer is more your jam, stop in for a tasting flight (or buy a 6-pack) of ales, lagers and IPAs at Tofino Brewing Company. If time allows, venture into the fishing village of Ucluelet for a final scenic walk along the Wild Pacific or Lighthouse Loop Trail, to get a final breathtaking view of the wild west coast before heading home.

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Around: She Gets

Evie Farrell, blogger, author, travel journalist and mum to Emmie BY KATJA GASKELL

If you’ve ever considered handing in your notice, buying a one-way plane ticket, and saying goodbye to routine and hello to adventure then you’ll want to read this. Evie Farrell and her daughter Emmie are two adventurous souls who have seen more of the world than most of us could hope to experience in a lifetime, with a particular affection for Asia. The duo have eaten dumplings in China, skied the powder fields in Japan, explored the highlands and jungles of Malaysia, and even lived in Vietnam for a while. They spent three years on the road seeing the world, sharing experiences, and making memories to last several lifetimes. And they would have kept going if the pandemic hadn't forced them to return to their native Australia. In 2019 Evie published her memoir about her travels with her daughter. Backyard to Backpack: A solo mum, a six year old and a life changing adventure, was published by Murdoch Books and has proven to be hugely inspirational to all families that love to travel. We've followed Evie and Emmie's travels for a long time on their wonderful Instagram page where she has over 120K followers, and are thrilled to be sharing their travels here with you.

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Evie Farrell, blogger, author, travel journalist and mum to Emmie

Can you please tell me a little bit about yourself and your family? I grew up by the beach in southern Sydney and that’s where Emmie and I are now, in our home back in the burbs. After years of full time travel we are kind of grounded for a while as Emmie has just started high school. Mind you, the Australian border opened in December 2021 and we’ve already been to Fiji together and I’ve been to Dubai and Hawaii solo. We were back in Malaysia in April and have other travels planned for the rest of the year. Travel just looks different for us right now.

mumpacktravel

When did you first start to travel? And when did you start traveling with Emmie? I did a few trips with my family when I was younger, the usual Aussie coastal holidays and cruises, but it wasn’t until I went backpacking in my early 20s with my best friend that I discovered my love of travel and how it makes me feel. Once I returned to Sydney and started working, I traveled as much as I could, often solo. I never really felt completely comfortable without it. I’m not really a homemaker or happy with routine, I just love the freedom of travel and exploring, and when I’m out and about the happiness beams out of my face. I first took Emmie overseas when she was four months old. My relationship had ended and I needed to reset so we went to Fiji. We just continued to travel like this until she was six - to Barbados, Denver, Disneyland in California, Singapore and back to Fiji. I was working full time and these holidays and adventures were time for us to connect and be completely together.

mumpacktravel Only going places that spark joy.

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When did you start traveling full time and what prompted you to do so?

mumpacktravel

We left Australia in February 2016 on what was to be about a year of traveling but ended up being three years, with a bit of time at home while I wrote my book. I’d been struggling for a long time with how to balance spending quality time with Emmie as I had a full time career and it was so hard to do both, especially as a solo parent. We had our trips away but it wasn’t enough; I felt disconnected and I worried that if something happened to me she wouldn’t have memories of time together. I had some savings I was planning to use on a new kitchen and I decided that I would use them to travel instead. When I think back about it now I can’t believe I set it all in motion. What a huge thing to do! We did a test run to Borneo to see how Emmie coped with the style of travel we were setting off to do, and she was fine and so a few months later we set off with one backpack and two one-way tickets to The Philippines. We came home in 2019 while I wrote our book and then set off again, back to Asia. We were in Japan in March 2020 when the world closed down so we returned to Australia and moved to Queensland. We lived on Magnetic Island for a year waiting for Asia to reopen, but finally gave up and returned to our home in Sydney. We lost that last 18 months of full time world travel and Emmie started high school this year so now it’s short trips. I would love to be back on the road but Emmie is loving school. It’s her decision whether we take off full time again, and it seems unlikely, at least for this year.

mumpacktravel

mumpacktravel Always say yes to new adventures.

What kind of travelers are you? We travel any way, from hostels and guesthouses to five star resorts! I don’t like how people often try to pigeonhole travelers or holiday-makers, as if one way of travel is better than the other. It’s all amazing! We love theme parks and we love camping, we love staying in five star resorts and we are also happy in hostels. We rough it around Asia with our backpacks and then stay in all-inclusive Club Med resorts. I think you can travel any way you like, and all types of travel are valid, no matter how you do it. What is most important is making sure we always travel respectfully. For me it’s all about exploring the world and learning, being open minded and accepting and teaching our kids about the world while we explore. I do think that staying in family-run guesthouses, eating in small restaurants and using local transport when traveling is the best way to give back to families and communities, and to make those connections with locals. It's such an important part of the travel experience.

mumpacktravel Always say yes to new adventures.

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We do what we can – like donating blood and supporting local businesses - but we do not engage in voluntourism activities as these do more damage than good, especially school visits that take children away from much needed education, and orphanage visits as many only exist to make money from tourists. The ChildSafe movement shares lot of information about voluntourism here.

We also don’t take photos of children – and very rarely adults – as I believe this is exploitative, especially if photos are shared on social media or used for commercial purposes without consent, and even then ‘consent’ is often not understood or given freely. We also try to avoid any activities that exploit or hurt animals like elephant riding or visiting zoos.

What are your top three favorite destinations? We were in Myanmar just before Covid and the military coup, and I think we were so fortunate to have had that experience and meet so many beautiful people. The devastation over there right now is heart-breaking and we do what we can to support the Burmese people. My memories are of spiritual moments at golden pagodas, riding around Bagan on a moped together, conversations with young men and women working as guides or in local cafes, the colorful markets near Inle Lake where locals from outlying villages traveled by horse and cart to sell their produce, and bellows used to build fires so that knives could be sharpened and made in the heat. It was so simple and not yet modernized, and the people were so friendly and humble. Emmie loves Japan and its quirkiness, and the contrast between the traditional and modern – like visiting temples and then going to the games parlors to try and win stuffed animals. The simplicity and mindfulness that runs through Japanese culture is beautiful. After racing around South East Asia it’s always nice to have an orderly, calm stay in Japan. We loved ski holidays here too at Club Med. I am not a skier and holidaying all-inclusive means Emmie and her lessons are all taken care off while I enjoy the onsen, restaurant and bar, relaxing and writing. We absolutely love Malaysia and feel it’s very under-rated as it really has everything; sparkling cities, relaxing highlands and jungles, and beautiful islands. Malaysian Borneo is such a wild adventure. It’s so hard to choose though, we just love Asia! Sri Lanka is so special, and Thailand has the best street food and snorkeling. Chasing waterfalls in the Philippines is next level and China, surprisingly, has the most incredible nature. I have a soul connection with Asia, I just love it and feel so connected, and I think Emmie does too.

Tell us about your book, how did that come about and what’s been the reaction to it? I was actually very lucky, Murdoch Books approached me and asked if I’d ever thought of writing a book. I had but I had never done anything about it, and I probably never would have without having a contract and a deadline! Backyard to Backpack – a solo mum, a six year old and a life changing adventure is all about our travels; the best parts, the worst parts and of course the embarrassing parts. It’s also about what I learned from this incredible experience. I think that was a big surprise for me. Travel is so restorative and, away from the routine and responsibility of home, I discovered more of myself and realized that while I don’t easily fit into the suburban way of life, it’s okay not to.

any travel disasters? We’re lucky we’ve only had one huge disaster, being robbed of everything in Spain. Yes we’ve been sick, and we’ve lost things and booked accommodation and turned up on the wrong day, and I've argued with taxi drivers but I’ve learned from all of them. Even when we were robbed of everything – the robbers basically wheeled off with all our bags including all our electronics, cameras, computer, iPad – everything – we were safe and that was the most important thing. There’s nothing like losing everything to remind you of what’s most important.

Why do you think travel is important for kids? How do you think Emmie has benefited? I think it’s so important for children to have a view of the world that is greater than their own community or country. Learning about differences helps to normalize them and understanding culture, religion and other ways of life helps kids to be more open minded. There is so much to learn and explore, and the longer children can be kept active and encouraged to be free the better! These experiences are so special and often you don’t even need to leave your neighborhood to seek out other communities and learn from them even when you’re not traveling.

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How did you cope with the Covid-19 pandemic? Were you able to travel at all? I found it extremely difficult. I didn’t realize just how much I needed to travel to be happy until I couldn’t move. The Australian border opened in December 2021 and we were on the first flight out to Fiji! I’m starting to feel like myself again but I think it will always be a bit of a struggle until I have my backpack on and I’m setting off exploring fulltime again.

What’s your best advice for solo parents who want to travel with kids? Do it! We may have one less pair of hands than couples but there’s very little we can’t do and it’s an incredible experience to be so close with your children while you explore.

You’ve traveled to a lot of countries. Is there anywhere that you haven’t been to yet that’s on your list? Oh yes, so many. We have mostly explored Asia and Europe together, and we would love to backpack through Central America and explore Africa – but honestly, I could spend the next 10 years traveling Asia and never see enough of it.

What are your top three tips for traveling with kids? Have really low expectations. Not because it will be bad but because you can’t tightly manage a trip with kids. You might get to see everything you want to or you may not – just remember the beauty is in being together and in the everyday moments spent with communities and experiencing the culture. Pack light – you don’t need a lot and what you forget you can usually buy. Get in the photos! This is so important for mums. Buy a selfie stick, get a tripod or ask people to take them for you. Make sure you are there so that your children can see you when they look back through these precious memories.

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1000 ISLANDS My son and daughter were sitting behind me and a pilot was to my right, in a helicopter gliding over two countries and hundreds of tiny islands in the St. Lawrence River. It was the closest I could get to entering another country during the pandemic, observing it from the air. Some islands below us were as small as a few feet across and some islands measured yards. And shipwrecks! Shallow wrecks poked out of the clear water and some were so deep that you couldn’t see them, but the pilot assured me they were there.

From above, we could see sightseeing boats traveling to Boldt Castle and through the channels and into the town of Alexandria Bay on the New York side, and Rockport on the Ontario side in Canada. This helicopter tour showed us the 1000 Islands in an awe-inspiring view from the air. The Thousand Islands is a group of more than 1,800 islands in the St. Lawrence River (1,864 to be exact), shared by both the United States and Canada. The islands that belong to Canada are part of the province of Ontario, those that belong to the U.S. form part of New York State. The border between the two countries zigs and zags around islands large and small. There was a rhyme to its reason when it all was divided up, I’m sure, however it’s just not overly clear when you kayak

BY KATHRYN DICKSON

through them which island belongs to which country - unless one of the owners of a cottage on the island flies a flag. These islands, and the surrounding shorelines, are an amazing mecca for adventure; for holidaying in cottages during the summer, for scuba divers to discover shipwrecks, and for explorers of all ages to experience its splendor on land and on water. The best way to really experience the islands, however, is by air. There is something extremely mesmerizing about seeing the 1000 Islands- the color of the water, the boats, the cottages and houses - from up high. Truthfully, this was my first time in a helicopter and it was pretty exciting. Much like having a private chauffeur in the air. The pilot knew the region, gave a personal narration and was very professional, giving the kids a memory to last a lifetime.

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DISCOVERING ONTARIO

While international travel was shuttered during the pandemic, local travel and explorations were all we had. At first, it felt like we were being forced to drive around Ontario if we were leaving our homes at all. For a while, we weren’t even allowed to leave the region we lived in. Eventually, however, the feeling turned into being privileged enough to explore Ontario and show us how it had earned its tagline from so many years ago, “Yours To Discover”. The Canadian Gateway to the Thousand Islands Region is Gananoque in Southeastern Ontario. From Gananoque, you are within a short driving distance of the bridge crossing over to the United States, to Kingston to the west, which was once considered to be the potential capital of Canada, and Cornwall to the east, located in one of the oldest counties in Canada. Fortune was mine when I had the opportunity to take my own children to Gananoque for an end-of-summer adventure. What made the timing extraordinarily special to me was that I buried my Dad on Monday morning and then headed back to one of the places we spent a lot of time together as a family growing up. I had the chance to show my kids around and reminisce about the camping, hiking and boat tour spots of my youth and take them to a couple of new places I hadn’t yet visited. While the trip was on the tail end of a sad event, it was somewhat of a bookend to a life.

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The Thousands Islands area has always held a special place in my memories. When I was a kid, we camped quite a few summers in a campground at Ivy Lea, on the Canadian side. The campground was very close to the 1000 Islands International bridge that you drive across towards Hill Island and the 1000 Islands Tower (be sure to check out the view from there) before crossing the border to the United States at Wellesley Island. During the summers of my youth, this campground had one dusty payphone and I would save my quarters from my paper route to call my friends - as a pre-teen I was devastated to leave my friends behind and camp with my family. Looking back now, the close proximity from Belleville, Ontario where I grew up, to the Thousand Islands was something my parents took great advantage of, and I’m the richer for it. We had a Regal motorboat that we would tow behind our blue Oldsmobile named Gertrude and later a tan-coloured station wagon with wooden panels named Bessie.

There are also some incredible golf courses on Wellesley Island and in upper New York State between Clayton and Alexandria Bay, which were a big draw for our adventures. No doubt the Ivy Lea campground has changed over the past 25 years, but I know one thing would still hold true to this day the waterfront campsites have a beautiful morning view of the St. Lawrence River. If you’re ever lucky enough to be able to book one of them, be sure to take the time at sunrise and sunset to watch the orange, yellow and red hues that cascade across the water.

We took “Bypass” the boat to the Thousand Islands and dropped her in the water at the Ivy Lea boat launch summer after summer while we camped and played with our pop-up camper trailer. Bypass took us back and forth across the St. Lawrence River to Alexandria Bay on a frequent basis. It was here I first learned about taxes and that according to my Dad, Canadians were “taxed to death” on tobacco and alcohol. Aside from that revelation, spending time in Alexandria Bay summer after summer taught me the best patios for a burger and yearly visits to the historic and architecturally gorgeous Boldt Castle were a tradition.

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ACTIVITIES & ADVENTURE If you’re on the Canadian side and want to take a boat sightseeing cruise around the islands, Rockport, Ontario, has always been the place to go. A quaint little town with a big history of Scottish settlers and boat manufacturing, it can also boast of being home to the best ice cream in the area. I may have, once or twice in my life, accidentally fed fish here by dropping my ice cream cone on a dock, but don’t let my past experience with clumsiness dissuade you from walking with a treat in your hand. Inevitably, strapped to the roof of our trailer were our bicycles. The 80s and early 90s were a much different time than now. It was expected that my sister and I would get on our bikes and leave our parents alone to nap in a hammock or go fishing. It was then I discovered the now named Ontario Waterfront trail; some of the best biking and hiking trails are along the St. Lawrence seaway on the Canadian side.

One of the most scenic walking, biking or driving routes in all of the 1000 Islands is the Long Sault Parkway which can be found just west of Cornwall. The Long Sault Parkway extends for 10 kilometers over 11 islands. The chain of islands is connected by causeways and makes for one of the easiest rides, great for the whole family to spend some time exploring.

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A fun game for adults is to taste-test beer at breweries on each side of the border and rank which stops along the way are the most enjoyable. From Cornwall, Ontario to Clayton, New York, emerging wineries and breweries will wet your whistle and are a far cry from the days of your Dad’s beer. Ontario’s craft beer scene has been seeing large growth and excellent small craft brews. The process and ingredients have evolved and improved over the past few decades and today's consumers are reaping the benefits. To really explore the 1000 Islands, the aerial view from a helicopter or the view from the water level is the way to go. Consider renting kayaks from Gananoque and taking a guided tour, which takes you through Canada's Thousand Islands National Park. The experience of paddling in and out of the channels of the 1000 Islands and inlets, swimming in sandbars, touching iron sticking out of the water from a centuries-old shipwreck, and waving to cottagers on their personal islands along the way is pure magic. A sightseeing boat will take you to Boldt Castle to explore ruins and this monument of love, and can also transport you to the mysterious Singer Castle on Dark Island. Imagine the thrilling tales a castle wall could share! The 1000 Islands region is a welcoming place with plenty of open air and distance. Having spent so many summers exploring the region in my youth and feeling back then like it was as dusty as the payphone in that campground, it surprisingly enchants and excites me to this day.

1000 Islands Helicopter Tours: https://www.1000islandstourism.com/ experiences/helicopter-tours/ Rockport Boat Line: https://rockportcruises.com/ 1000 Islands Kayaking: https://1000islandskayaking.com/

Where to Stay on the Ontario side of the 1000 Islands Gananoque Colonial Resort and Spa Comfort Inn and Suites Thousand Islands Harbour District Cornwall Ramada Inn (check out the Cycle and Stay Package) Kingston Frontenac Hotel Confederation Place Hotel

Where to Stay on the New York side of the 1000 Islands Alexandria Bay Bonnie Castle Resort & Marina Capt. Thomson’s Resort Clayton 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel Clipper Inn

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COLORADO

NATIONAL PARKS

How to avoid the crowds in Colorado's national parks from the author of the new guidebook, "Colorado Family Outdoor Adventure."

BY HEATHER MUNDT

In the two years since the start of the pandemic, Americans have flocked to natural areas, escaping the confines of our homes toward socially distant activities. And that has meant record visits to national parks: 44 parks set a record for recreational visits in 2021 and six broke a visitation record they set in 2020, a trend experts expect to continue in summer 2022. “Not only do the parks benefit from a renewed preference for outdoor activities and road trips, (but) many families are also still avoiding international travel, so they (may) decide to take domestic ‘bucket list’ trips this year,” says Dr. Lynn Minnaert, Clinical Associate Professor at the New York University Jonathan M. Tisch Center of Hospitality and lead researcher for the Family Travel Association’s annual U.S. Family Travel Survey. The increased demand for popular national parks also means limited lodging options and new reservation systems implemented to limit crowds. Minnaert says families might look at destinations beyond the most-popular national parks this summer. “Consider State Parks or less well-known national parks too,” she says. “There are so many great parks that are waiting to be discovered!” As a Colorado native, I have no doubt there will be crowds in my state’s four national parks. So with Minnaert’s advice in mind, I offer basic information on each, plus a lesser-known alternative destination for three of them; there’s simply no alternative to the Great Sand Dunes!

Black Canyon OF THE GUNNISON

NATIONAL PARK (BCGNP)

Colorado’s least-visited national park is not so for lack of beauty. Featuring a dramatic gorge of black walls plummeting up to 2,700 feet into a nearly 50-mile canyon carved by the Gunnison River, this park should be on your radar. Some of the rock walls in BCGNP are so deep that they’re exposed to sunlight for as little as 30 minutes per day, making them appear black. Of two entrances, the North Rim lies about 11 miles southwest of Crawford. The main entrance, South Rim, is roughly 15 minutes east of the town of Montrose. The latter offers the only year-round visitor center and more services/infrastructure (without any bridge between entrances, the drive between them can take up to three hours). Highlights include Gold Medal Waters, world-class climbing spots, and Colorado’s tallest cliff, the 2,250-foot Painted Wall. In 2015, BCGNP was also certified as an International Dark Sky Park and their programs include night-sky viewing with telescopes, as well as an annual astronomy festival. www.nps.gov/blca/index.htm. The South Rim Visitor Center is open year-round, 8am–6pm during summer months. Pro tip: There are few established trails down to the river, so anglers wanting to experience the park’s coveted fishing waters should consider going on a float trip with an outfitter like Gunnison River Expeditions, www.gunnisonriverexpeditions.com.

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ALTERNATIVE: CURECANTI NATIONAL RECREATION AREA While BCGNP is not likely to be overcrowded like other national parks, access to the water within the park is difficult. So if you’re seeking a water-lovers’ paradise, head next door to Curecanti (kur-uh-KAHN-tee) National Recreation Area, named for an Ute Indian sub chief who roamed the area in the late 1800s. Connected on the north border to BCGNP, it features three reservoirs: Crystal, Morrow Point, and Blue Mesa, Colorado’s largest body of water within the state. At 20 miles long with some 96 miles of shoreline, Blue Mesa features Elk Creek Marina (open May 1–September; 7 am–5pm, 970.641.0707), which includes boat launching, boat rentals, tackle, gasoline, kayaks, paddle boards, and canoes, as well as Pappy’s Restaurant. There are numerous camping opportunities, including camping right on the shores of Blue Mesa in one of five Adventure Pods, cabin-like structures accommodating up to three people (dogs allowed in some), which come with two paddleboards, two Pappy’s drink tokens, and more. Summer only. Contact marina for pod reservations.

Great Sand Dunes NATIONAL PARK AND PRESERVE

I wish I could offer you an alternative to this otherworldly landscape, which encompasses a variety of geography, from tundra to forest and wetlands, in addition to the sand dunes. But you’ll just have to brave the crowds to experience its wonder, a vast stretch of sand tucked at the base of the stunning Sangre de Cristo Mountains, featuring the tallest dunes in North America (Star Dune is the tallest, rising to the highest at 755 feet; five of the park’s dunes top 700 feet). The state’s newest national park of the four (est. 2004), you can hike in the sand, even to the top of Star Dune, roughly 6 miles roundtrip (about eight hours of hiking). To be clear, though, it’s as difficult as you would imagine to hike in the sand, and it’s not going to be fun for young children. Trust me on this! In fact, some kids may just prefer to play in the seasonal Medano Creek located at the dunes’ base, which is often high enough for tubing. And, of course, it’s worth sledding or boarding the dunes, but you won’t have to hike far for that kind of fun if the kids protest. Parents beware: Prepare for you and your kids to get very dirty. As with any national park, there are several camping options available. Or you can stay in the region’s largest city, Alamosa. Visit www.alamosa.org for lodging and activity ideas. Pro tip: Use only gear that’s created for sand boarding and sledding in the dunes. (Your own gear will just get stuck in the sand.) We rented in town at Kristi Mountain Sports, 3223 Main St., 719.589.9759, www.kristimountainsports.com. Additionally, the sand can reach 150 degrees at its peak, so you should wear socks (at the very least, even in sandals) to protect from the heat or arrive early in the morning to avoid high temperatures.

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Mesa Verde NATIONAL PARK

The country’s largest archaeological preserve and Colorado’s only UNESCO World Heritage Site, MVNP maintains nearly 5,000 known archaeological sites of the Ancestral Pueblo people who lived here for over 700 years. Renowned for some 600 cliff dwellings, including Balcony House, Long House, and the park’s largest and most famous, the 150-room Cliff Palace. The latter can only be visited via ranger-guided tours. Purchase tickets at the Visitor and Research Center, located just east of the park exit ramp off US Hwy 160. Reservations required. Mesa Verde Visitor and Research Center, 35853 Rd H.5, Mancos, 970.529.4465. Another good stop is the Chapin Mesa Archaeological Museum, located 21 miles (45 minutes) from the park entrance, open year-round. Visitors also have several camping options in the park, but from late April to midOctober, Far View Lodge offers 150 rooms and on-site dining. Mile Marker 15, 844.684.9427, www.visitmesaverde.com. www.nps.gov/meve.

ALTERNATIVE: CANYONS OF THE ANCIENTS NATIONAL MONUMENT Set less than 20 miles northwest of MVNP, this national monument contains the country’s highest-known density of archaeological sites, featuring 176,000 acres along the Utah-Colorado border and preserving more than 6,000 ancient sites as part of the Bureau of Land Management’s National Landscape Conservation System. That means less signage than included in the national park system, and few structures are excavated - Do Not Disturb artifacts or structures! You’re likely to have much of the park to explore on your own. To get started, stop first in nearby Dolores at the Canyons of the Ancients Visitor Center and Museum, which also offers tours of two 12th-century archaeological sites, the Escalante and Dominguez Pueblos. 27501 CO-184, 970.882.5600. Or consider a guided tour via the Southwest Colorado Canyons Alliance, which offers half-day “Family Time on the Monument'' tours (ideal for parents and kids ages 5–13). 970.560.1643. www.swcocanyons/tours

Pro tip: If you’re traveling with young kids, skip the park’s four-hour bus tour where they’ll be bored and can’t touch anything. Stick to the rangerguided tours so they can explore the cliff dwellings.

Rocky Mountain

NATIONAL PARK

Colorado’s most-visited national park of the four—attracting more than 4.4 million visitors in 2021 and the fifth-busiest national park in the country— RMNP is precisely where visitors will find the landscapes so emblematic of the state; craggy granite peaks surrounded by alpine lakes and verdant, flower-filled meadows. Set within view of Colorado’s northernmost Fourteener (peaks 14,000 feet or higher), the iconic Longs Peak (14,255 feet), RMNP boasts Trail Ridge Road, the highest continuous paved road in the country (12,183 feet). A 48-mile route along US 34 connecting RNMP’s east side near Estes Park to the west side at Grand Lake (roughly a two-hour drive), Trail Ridge also features the highest-elevation visitor center in the National Park System, the Alpine Visitor Center (11,796 feet).

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Since summer 2020, however, the park has launched a reservation system to reduce crowding, a program that will remain in place for 2022. From May 27 through October 10, visitors will have two reservation options: Bear Lake Road access from 5 am-6 pm, and another excluding Bear Lake Road from 9am - 3pm. Available at www.recreation.gov starting around the first of the month for the following month, beginning May 2, 10am MDT, for visits May 28-June 30. (Roughly 25 percent of the tickets are sequestered for day-before visits, to be released at 5 p.m.) Visit www.nps.gov/romo or call 970.586.1206 for updated information.

Pro tip: Book a tour with one of the numerous outfitters who work in the park to avoid the reservation system. Find ideas at www.visitgrandcounty.com or www.visitestespark.com.

ALTERNATIVE: STATE FOREST STATE PARK Located roughly 90 miles northwest of Grand Lake (just outside RMNP’s western entrance), this state park features much of the same topography as the nearby national park: rugged mountains, alpine lakes, and plenty of wildlife, including some 600 moose. And fewer crowds. Situated near the small town of Walden, known as the Moose Viewing Capital of Colorado, the area offers 71,000 acres of outdoor recreation, including camping at more than 150 campsites and fishing destinations like the Ranger Lakes, and the Canadian and Michigan Rivers. My older son and I opted to stay at the Never Summer Nordic yurts, which offers 11 yurts, two huts, and two large cabins, plus a gift shop with snacks, wine, beer, and more. www.neversummernordic.com

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There are also three attended entrance stations at Ranger Lakes, North Park, and North Michigan (summer season only), two corrals, a fishing pier, and the Moose Visitor Center, located about 20 miles southeast of Walden, open 9 a.m.-5 p.m. in summer. 56750 Hwy 14, Walden, 970.723.8366. www.cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/parks/StateForest

Want even more Colorado park information to start planning your own trip? Grab Heather's new book, Colorado Family Outdoor Adventure, and get out into nature in a way the whole family will enjoy.

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Hotels FAVORITES

ISLAND LIFE

Island Boutique Hotels We Adore There are hundreds of thousands of islands around the world. Some are tiny atolls home to brilliant white sand beaches, others are wild and rugged and perfect for adventure or cosy nights by the fire. One thing many of these islands have in common, however, is a great place to stay. We've rounded up our favourite island hotels to help you plan your next trip - whether you're looking for family fun, a romantic getaway, time with friends...or anything else!

THE MARKER • KEY WEST, FL INN ON TURNER • NC COASTAL ISLANDS THE WICKANINNISH INN • TOFINO, BC CANADA SANTA BARBARA RESORT • AZORES, PORTUGAL VIRTU SUITES • NAXOS, GREECE

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MARKER KEY WEST RESORT ADDRESS: 200 WILLIAM ST, KEY WEST, FL 33040 WEBSITE: HTTPS://WWW.THEMARKERKEYWEST.COM/ STARTING PRICE: $410 USD

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BY ROB TAYLOR

FAVORITES

When you hear “Key West” you get a very specific sort of image in your mind, of tropical trees and vines overtaking front porches and warm breezes blowing down the street, and that’s just when you get at the Marker Key West Resort. We really enjoyed our time here, both for the location and the amenities and are excited to share all the details! The Marker Resort Key West is a really special place, and it really does capture the feeling of vintage Keys life, which is something we look for when we plan a Florida Keys vacation. The location at the Historic Seaport is awesome both for getting on the water with tours and for the food nearby. The service at the Marker Resort was also exceptional. Traveling during COVID times, you so often find people stretched thin and generally done with tourists, but that was not the case with any of the interactions we had staying at the Marker Key West. I love that every room at the Marker Resort Key West has a balcony. Having outdoor space, especially when you’re someplace like Key West where it’s warm and breezy, is so important for relaxing travel. While every room has a balcony with lush tropical vegetation outside, the bigger suites are the only ones with full sized decks/patio spaces. That’s okay though, as the hotel rooms themselves are very large and there is plenty of public space too. The primary room types at the Marker Key West are either King or Two Queen rooms. None of these have sleeper sofas in them, so the maximum capacity is either two or four people. There are one and two bedroom suites that sleep several more people, but at that point, the cost has at least doubled for booking, so you might as well consider multiple rooms as well as the suite options.

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Like with the Laureate Key West, the Marker Resort has the basic amenities of a very nice property, but not an inclusive as a mountain retreat, such as the Tenaya Lodge at Yosemite might. There isn’t a spa or on-property adventures, but there is a concierge and wonderful poolside equipment to add to the fun and relaxation. To make visiting Key West and exploring easy, the Marker Resort actually can bundle accommodations with activities such as sailing, taking a trip to Dry Tortugas National Park, bike rentals and more.

The primary room option of the Classic King or Two Queen room is all you need. The views are what starts to create a variation in room types, but they all have balconies with tropical trees and bushes around them, making them very private, so you might as well just book the Classic and roll with whatever view you get. They’re all great. A bonus to the beautiful setting and great location of the Marker Resort Key West is the welcome. You check in via the lobby front desk, and they welcome you with champaign / prosecco / bubbles of some sort. It’s a nice way to start your stay at the Marker. They also have options to make kids feel welcome (our boys were given smoothie vouchers) but the property as a whole is more designed for adults, hence the bubbles.

There are several pools at the Marker Resort. There’s the main pool area, which has two pools and recreation space (yard games) as well as lots of lounge chairs and umbrellas. There is also the adult pool which is intended for guests 18+. It’s also well suited with lounge equipment. There are towels provided in both pool areas, so guests don’t need to bring them from the rooms. Also in the pool area there is a small stage. Music can vary from a DJ quietly spinning chill Florida Keys music to live performances by local musicians. Check with the front desk for a schedule of events around the pool area. You’ll also find the Marker’s dining option by the main pool.

Since you’re in Key West, you might as well enjoy Florida food by the pool (or relative area). The Starboard and Starboard Bar are the dining options at the Marker Resort. These are both located in the main pool area and serve standard American cuisine with the Florida Keys flare. That means fish tacos, fish dip, grilled shrimp, and then a selection of salads, burgers and brick oven pizzas.

The Starboard Bar at the Marker does poolside service and has a pretty great drink menu, with all the blended drink options you can imagine. My favorite is the spicy paloma (grapefruit margarita, basically). I love the location of the Marker Resort Key West. Located directly next to the Historic Seaport, it’s in a great place for relaxing and walking to many spots for dining or tours.

INN ON TURNER

ADDRESS: 217 Turner St, Beaufort, NC • WEBSITE: https://innonturner.com • RATES: $500

Freshly renovated and ready to welcome new guests is the delightful Inn on Turner. This unique, boutique lodging is located in the Historic District of Beaufort on North Carolina's Crystal Coast, and within walking distance of pretty much anywhere you want to go - including the boardwalk for catching ferries to the nearby islands. This is a delightful place to stay, all historic charm, a welcome porch and

sun-filled rooms. In fact, the only thing that trumps the property itself are the owners, Jon and Kim. This duo are gracious hosts and keen foodies, which means that not only is your every need taken care of but you will eat very well during your stay. Inn on Turner houses two Queen Suites and two King Suites, that come with luxury linens, top of the range mattresses and private

bathrooms stocked with locally made natural toiletries. The rooms are lovely - like something from Coastal Living magazine - but they do only sleep two people. If you're bringing the kids along then you will need to book additional rooms (and check with Jon and Katie first as they do have a "young traveler policy"). The Inn's dining experience is more French auberge than your traditional American Bed and Breakfast. Based

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on the traditional French Table d'Hote experience, where guests all dine together, Jon and Katie encourage guests, visitors and locals to enjoy a three course dinner ensemble. The food is seasonal, local and sustainable and guests rave about the experience. Even better, a portion of your reservation supports the charity Backpack Friends, which tackles food insecurities for children in the local community. As much as you'll feel like spending your days in your home away from home at Inn on Turner it would be a shame to miss out on all that Beaufort has to offer. From hiking and kayaking to fishing and delving into local history there are plenty of adventures to fill your days including some fun day trips. Take a ferry to nearby Cape Lookout and climb the iconic black and white lighthouse for magnificent views of the Crystal Coast or enjoy a day on the barrier island known as Shackleford Banks, which is home to wild horses! Don't worry about missing out on any of these activities though, because Jon and Katie are excellent Inn concierges and email all guests a "Travel Like a Local" package in advance of their arrival. This helpful email guide is filled with links to thrilling adventures and laidback activities to ensure you enjoy Beaufort as much as you're guaranteed to enjoy the Inn on Turner itself.

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THE WICKANINNISH INN BY CLAUDIA LAROYE

ADDRESS: 500 Osprey Ln, Tofino, BC • WEBSITE: https://www.wickinn.com/ • STARTING PRICE: $580-780 CAD

1996. Perched on rocks overlooking the pounding surf of the Pacific Ocean and the wide expanse of sandy Chesterman Beach, ‘the Wick’ as it’s known, is a luxurious property that’s on the upscale but still down-to-earth side. The owners of the Wick created the marketing behind Tofino’s popular winter storm-watching season between November and March, a time of intense ocean swells and wild west coast weather. The Wick even provides the rainproof outerwear and wellies you’ll need to brave the rain and winds, should you dare. The shoulder seasons of spring and fall are an ideal time of year to enjoy a slower pace of Tofitian life, while summertime sees the village come alive with visitors and families exploring Tofino with kids, walking or biking along the beach, surfing the ocean waves, and heading out for hikes, whale watching or the simple joys of exploring tide pools.

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The Wick is family and pet-friendly, with special kids programming, beach toys and bicycles for enjoying the sandy shoreline. There are adjoining rooms for larger families and most have a beach or forest view. There’s also the Ancient Cedars Spa, offering massage, facials and body treatments, as well as yoga classes for an additional fee, equipment provided. The Wick has a café, the On The Rocks Bar, and the fine dining The Pointe Restaurant, which juts out on the edge point of the rocks overlooking the ocean. It’s the perfect place for a celebratory or romantic dinner, or to enjoy a sunny brunch the next morning while watching cold-water surfers ride the waves. The Pointe’s fine dining menu features sumptuously prepared dishes of local and seasonal ingredients like local crab and prawns, fish, game. It can be made vegan, gluten free and vegetarian, and there’s also a kids menu for the littles.

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SANTA BÁRBARA ECO-BEACH RESORT BY KATJA GASKELL

São Miguel island is the largest, most populated and volcanically active of the nine Azores Islands, the Portuguese archipelago that sit in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. The island is famous for its dramatic volcanic scenery, its beautiful hydrangeas, its rich marine life and its adventure activities. It's also becoming increasingly well known for some of its hotels, in particular the Santa Bárbara Eco-Beach Resort. ADDRESS: Estrada Regional nº1, 1º Morro de Baixo Ribeira Grande WEBSITE: https://www.santabarbaraazores.com/ STARTING PRICE: From $300 USD

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Santa Barbara Eco-Beach Resort is a slick modern resort set on the northern edge of São Miguel Island. The resort - all clean lines and minimalist design - was created to blend into the islands natural surroundings and to minimize its impact on the landscape. Built using local materials including cryptomeria wood, bamboo, cork and local stone, the hotel is sleek, stylish and ecofriendly. It's also a great option for families wanting to explore this magical island. Santa Barbara offers a range of accommodation; 14 studios, 7 one bedroom villas and 9 two bedroom villas. There are various categories of studios and villas (some come with a shared pool, others with a private hot tub) but almost all of them can accommodate families.

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The farm-to-table hotel restaurant is excellent - and just as popular with locals as it is hotel guests. The same can be said for the on site bar, which is the perfect place for sampling the excellent Azores wines (we're particularly fond of the wine from Pico). What really makes this hotel stand out, however, is the service which we would happily give an A+. Nothing is too much trouble for the friendly staff who bend over backwards to make sure everything is just right whether that's your accommodation, food requests or the myriad activitis on offer. Because Santa Bárbara is not just a good base from which to explore the island (it's also well positioned for early morning flights), the hotel is packed full of fun activities.

good base from which to explore the island (it's also well positioned for early morning flights), the hotel is packed full of fun activities. There's a surf school on site where you can have lessons as well as the option to go bodyboarding, kayaking, snorkelling or stand-up paddle boarding. The hotel can arrange whale watching excursions, swimming with dolphins (in a natural, sustainable way) and fishing. Plus there are walking trails, bike tours, yoga sessions, cooking classes and much more. Sound good? Hurry and book a room now.

VIRTU SUITES NAXOS, GREECE BY TAMARA GRUBER This new boutique property on the Greek island of Naxos offers stylish amenities and stunning views of white sand beaches and azure blue waters.

ADDRESS: Agios Prokopios 843 00, Greece • WEBSITE: https://www.virtusuites.com/en • STARTING PRICE: $477 USD

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Naxos is the largest of the Cyclades Islands in Greece, yet it remains relatively undiscovered by Americans. Much more affordable than pricey Santorini and Mykonos, Naxos lets you stretch your Greece budget for a longer stay. There are beaches to enjoy, cute villages to visit, mountains to hike, and ancient temples to explore on Naxos, along with on water activities like diving, snorkeling, and sailing. And lovley Virtu Suites is the place to stay while you explore and enjoy this Grecian paradise. Virtu Suites is a small boutique hotel located on the beach in Agios Prokopios, about 15 minutes south of Chora, also known as Naxos Town, the main town on the island. The hotel has a prime location just across the road from this gorgeous stretch of beach. We stayed in a Deluxe Sea View Suite. Our suite, number 3, was located on the ground floor just a couple of steps from the pool. We enjoyed sitting outside our room in the evening, but since the sunbed was located in front of the suite next door, we ended up spending more time at the beach than the pool. I absolutely fell in love with the decor of the Virtu Suites, which uses a gorgeous blend of organic materials like rope, wood, and natural fabrics. Our room featured a King-sized bed and a nice sized seating area. Virtu Suites provides complimentary beach loungers and umbrellas for guests, they just need to be reserved the night before. Food and beverage service is also available at the beach, you just may need to walk up to request a menu. The beach is made up of teeny pebbles which seem more like coarse sand than the rocky beaches on Santorini. The pool is cute and offers a great spot for a quick swim to cool off or night swim, but if you want to sunbathe, the beach is the better place.

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Spotlight

BALTIMORE BY SHAHNAZ HOSSAIN

1 DAY IN BALTIMORE

FREE THINGS TO DO

A packed 1 Day itinerary to plan your time in Baltimore

Save money in Charm City with our top 10 free things to do

BEST MUSEUMS

FOOD HALLS

Explore Baltimore's varied Dive into Charm City's and vibrant museum scene dizzying array of Food Halls

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One Day

BALTIMORE Start your day at the Baltimore Visitor Center which is full of brochures on all of the different attractions. You can purchase admission tickets to most places at the center - there are even discounted rates for attraction packages. Don’t forget to pick up a few Baltimore-related souvenirs while you’re there! While it gives you an idea of all there is to see and do, popular choices include:

While one day might not be enough to explore all of Baltimore’s wonders, you can certainly pack in as much as possible with this exciting 1 Day Itinerary. Old Bay seasoning, Bohemian beer, and the Inner Harbor might be some of the more obvious reasons Baltimore is popular but that’s far from everything. Born and bred in the DMV, I’ve spent the last ten years making Charm City my home. I’ve fallen in love with the many museums, the quirky shops in Hampden, and even the sometimes sweet (sometimes annoying) squeegee kids who draw little hearts on the corner of my windshield. This itinerary will let you experience the best of Baltimore in one day. Get ready for a day of delicious foods, fun attractions, and some things that may even surprise you. Start with breakfast - you have a busy day of sightseeing ahead of you so begin with a delicious meal to get you going. Here are some Old Bay-infused spots you’re not going to want to miss because even breakfast has to have a Baltimore vibe. Charmed Miss Shirley’s Cafe Spend a couple of hours exploring the Baltimore Inner Harbor. There are so many wonderful things to see and do within walking distance of each other at the Inner Harbor.

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The National Aquarium The World Trade Center Maritime Museums And if exploring a museum or two sounds like the best way to spend your day in Baltimore, check out this list of museums in Baltimore that includes spots like the American Visionary Art Museum, the Baltimore Museum of Art, the Reginald F. Lewis Museum, or the Star-Spangled Banner Flag House. Click here to check out other places to explore such as the Maryland Science Center, Port Discovery Children’s Museum, and the Chessie Dragon paddle boats if you want to get out on the water. Try a little bit of everything for lunch at one of Baltimore’s food halls. Food halls are a wonderful place to catch a quick lunch and still have lots of different options to choose from. Lexington Market Broadway Market Cross Street Market Relax and explore some of Baltimore’s best neighborhoods in the afternoon, including Harbor East, Hampden, Charles Village, Patterson Park, Federal Hill, and Fells Point.

Have a mouth-watering seafood dinner. Charm City is all about the seafood fresh crabs, oysters, clams, shrimp, or fish, served steamed, fried, boiled, etc. if you can think it up, we’ll probably have it. Many of the restaurants in Baltimore will have seafood on the menu but here are some crowdpleasers: Locust Point Steamers Nick’s Fish House And if you’re not really into seafood (blasphemy!), check out the chic Japanese restaurant, Azumi, a contemporary Mexican restaurant, Barcocina, or some Cuban-infused deliciousness at Little Havana. The dining options in Baltimore are so diverse that you’ll find something for any palate, and if you can’t, you can’t go wrong with a delicious burger. If you’re still full from lunch, skip the main course and head straight to dessert at spots like The Charmery, Waffie, and Sacre Sucre. No matter where you choose to spend the afternoon, you’ll experience a bit of Baltimore’s rich history and culture.

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10 Free Things to do

BALTIMORE

Welcome to Charm City, where the fun never ends, and Old Bay is life. With fancy restaurants, five-star hotels, and costly attractions like the National Aquarium, spending time in Baltimore could be really expensive. Never fear though because if your wallet needs a break, we've got you covered with 10 free things you can do in Baltimore.

Stroll Around The Inner Harbor There’s usually an entertainer performing for free at the outdoor amphitheater during the summer months. Baltimore Farmers’ Market & Bazaar Browse through the Baltimore Farmers’ Market & Bazaar under the Jones Falls Expressway. You can enjoy free food samples while watching street artists perform. Sherwood Gardens Browse through the Baltimore Farmers’ Market & Bazaar under the Jones Falls Expressway. You can enjoy free food samples while watching street artists perform. Canton Waterfront Park Spend hours at the First Thursday’s concert series in Canton Waterfront Park, which runs from May to September. Charm City Circulator Drive around taking in the city and if you don’t have a car, take Baltimore’s fully-free Charm City Circulator. Baltimore Museum Of Art See the paintings, sculptures, and artifacts at the Baltimore Museum of Art, where admission is always free. Federal Hill Views Sit atop Federal Hill, people watch, and take in the stunning view of the Inner Harbor in front of you. It’s also a wonderful place to watch the 4th of July fireworks. Architectural Tour Of Churches Baltimore has some stunning architecture, especially its churches. Some to take in are Mt. Vernon Place United Methodist Church, Basilica of the Assumption, Old St. Paul Church, and the St. Leo Roman Catholic Church. Graffiti Alley Head over to Graffiti Alley to check out the work of local artists. Spray paint cans can be found lying around for you to leave your own tag. Power Plant Live Power Plant Live hosts free live music you can enjoy throughout the year, especially during the summer.

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Quick Guide to

BALTIMORE

NEIGHBORHOODS

Amazing architecture, historic monuments, and an unmatched vibe – each of these Baltimore neighborhoods has a distinct personality you’ll want to delve into. Baltimore has been called many things, but boring is not one of them. The ‘greatest city in America’ has over 200 neighborhoods to explore and each of them are uniquely fantastic. Want to visit giant turtles and electric eels? We have that. What about a cold brew from one of our landmark breweries? We have that too. Use our guide on the coolest neighborhoods in Baltimore to decide which areas you want to explore the next time you’re in the city!

Inner Harbor Often considered the focal point of the city, Baltimore’s Inner Harbor is a bustling hub of waterfront attractions, restaurants, bars, and other entertainment venues. Spend your day checking out cool interactive exhibits or in the planetarium at the Maryland Science Center or visiting the dolphins at the National Aquarium (both are great for younger visitors too!). Take a tour of one of the many historic warships docked at the port, check out the Baltimore lighthouses or take in breathtaking views of the city from the Top of the World Observation deck. Read Our Full Guide To Inner Harbor Baltimore Harbor East Harbor East is where you go when you still want the panoramic harbor views but in a more upscale experience. Stop at the numerous specialty boutiques for a shopping spree of one-of-a-kind pieces. Instead of chain restaurants, you’ll find high-end dining establishments with fancy menus created by award-winning restaurateurs; the saffron risotto at Charleston is *chef’s kiss*. Indulge in a spa session or stay overnight at one of the neighborhood’s upscale hotels, from the Four Seasons Hotel Baltimore to the stunning Marriott Waterfront. Fells Point One of my personal favorites, Fells Point is one of the oldest neighborhoods in Baltimore. You’ll find yourself traveling back in time as you walk the picturesque stone streets that are almost identical to how they looked when it was a shipbuilding port so many years ago.There’s tons of waterfront restaurants and modern boutiques, but it’s the bustling bars that attract people from far and wide – especially on the weekends. There’s tons of history that add to the charming mystique and lasting legacy of Fells Point. Read Our Full Guide To Fells Point Baltimore

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Canton As soon as the weather seems even slightly warm, Baltimoreans flock to the Canton waterfront. The quaint neighborhood is to families what Fells Point is to a more rambunctious crowd. While there are similar pubs, restaurants, and shops, Canton is much calmer and is a great example of quintessential Baltimore. You’ll find rows of decorated traditional row houses surrounding the Canton Waterfront Park which hosts the annual Baltimore Seafood Festival, an outdoor summer concert series, and tons of other events that are often kid friendly. Find more in our Baltimore Neighborhood Guide Charles Village Mostly filled with students because of its close proximity to Johns Hopkins University, Charles Village is where you want to go if you enjoy a laid-back atmosphere. There are restaurants serving everything from pizzas to burritos – all the fuel a college kid needs! No fuss bars, outdoor seating, and live music give the neighborhood a vibe hard to find anywhere else. Read Our Full Guide To Charles Village Baltimore

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Our Favorite

BALTIMORE FOOD HALLS

Check out all of the Baltimore Food Halls on your next trip

These Baltimore-based food halls let you feast on an array of the delightful food and drink found in the city. Baltimoreans love their food. We embraced new restaurants, we hyped up the food truck rage, we persisted through the pandemic and adopted outdoor seating in unconventional settings – basically, nothing will keep us away from the many good eats the city has to offer.

Broadway Market Once a major source of food for the flourishing city, Broadway Market started as Fells Point Market in 1786. It was moved and rebranded over ten years later to accommodate the growing population. One of the first-ever public markets in Baltimore, vendors would come from far and wide to sell their fruits, vegetables, and homemade foods. After undergoing a $3 million renovation that ended in 2019, Broadway Market’s offerings have changed drastically. While they do invite over a dozen additional vendors during the spring and summer months that sell fresh fruits and veggies, most of the yearround vendors comprise restaurants, eateries, and bars.

While Baltimore has had some historic food halls like Lexington Market and Broadway Market, the food hall scene has been thriving in the past few years. New spots combine the charm of long-standing traditional markets with new, industrial-chic settings that are perfect for any meal of the day. Plus, it gives you the chance to try so many different foods all in one place. Here are a few of our favorites!

Chef and owner of Thai Street, Kesorn Imsin shares his family’s recipes that have been passed down and perfected over generations. Bringing Bangkok to Baltimore, signature dishes from their menu you must try are the Crab Fried Rice and the Shrimp Khao Soi.

Lexington Market Lexington Market, which still stands in its original location, was founded in 1782 making it the oldest public market in the United States. While it has an undeniable charm within its historic walls, it is currently undergoing a $40 million renovation and reconstruction that’s scheduled to be completed in early 2022. It remains a popular tourist attraction for foodies and out-of-towners who all come to take in all of the fresh produce, foods, and desserts that are offered by the 75+ vendors there. The old-school bakeries will satisfy your sweet tooth craving (don’t leave without trying a Baltimore-based Berger cookie – it’s a cultural icon!) or feasting on the city’s famous Faidley’s crab cakes.

Belvedere Square Belvedere Square is a delightful food hall that has everything from boutique retail shops to chic, upscale restaurants – they even have a European-style market where you can buy freshly-baked bread, organic chocolate, and more. The neighborhood spot is open all year long but truly comes alive when the weather is nice.

If Thai food doesn’t float your boat, try Connie’s Chicken and Waffles, Sal & Son’s Seafood, or Sophie’s Place European Deli. There are a few other choices as well as an ice cream vendor and a bar.

There’s plenty of outdoor seating, they often host events where they invite tons of other vendors, and their Summer Sounds at the Square concert series lets you experience local artists performing live every last Friday of the month. With everything they offer, you could spend an entire day at Belvedere Square eating, exploring, and unwinding.

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Dig into the Unique BALTIMORE Museum Scene

Immerse yourself in art and culture at these amazing museums in Baltimore. You could spend days exploring all of the museums in Charm City and it still wouldn’t be enough time. With institutions dedicated to everything from art and tattoos to Babe Ruth and the military, you’ll find a museum that will enlighten and inspire you in this list of Baltimore museums. American Visionary Art Museum One of the most interesting art museums I’ve ever come across; the artworks that you’ll see here have unique stories behind them. The highlighted artists can be anyone from psych patients to prison inmates and it’s amazing to see their creativity on display. Baltimore Museum Of Art Matisse, Picasso, van Gogh, Warhol – in addition to the works of these amazing artists, you’ll also see artwork and artifacts representing cultures all over the world in the form of jewelry, weapons, pottery, ceramics, textiles, and more. The Walters Art Museum With one of the most extensive museum collections in Baltimore, a visit to the Walters Art Museum will put you amidst 36,000 objects with some dating back to 5000 BCE. Items such as an ancient Roman Sarcophagi and illuminated religious text are a display of human creativity at its finest. C. Grimaldis Gallery This modern art gallery specializes in contemporary sculpture pieces as well as post-World War II American and European art. Their temporary exhibits are some of my favorites as they highlight the work of upcoming local artists. The Jewish Museum Of Maryland With a collection comprising ceremonial art, clothing, historical photographs, books, and other memorabilia, the Jewish Museum of Maryland tells the story of Jewish Americans and their history in the Old Line State.

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The Baltimore Tattoo Museum The Baltimore Tattoo Museum preserves the history and art of American tattooing; while you’re there, add to its history by getting inked by one of their talented artists. Babe Ruth Birthplace And Museum Baltimore is proud to be the birthplace of baseball icon, Babe Ruth, and his former home is now a museum dedicated to memorabilia and sports-related artifacts about his life.

Edgar Allan Poe House And Museum The last home that renowned writer and poet Edgar Allan Poe ever lived in, this museum is filled with personal items and artifacts. Don’t miss their annual International Edgar Allan Poe Festival & Awards! The Peale Center For Baltimore History And Architecture The Peale Center for Baltimore History and Architecture works with local creators to create the largest collection of Baltimore-based stories. You’ll see exhibits by performers, historians, and other storytellers to share what Baltimore is and was. B&O Railroad Museum The Baltimore and Ohio Railroad Museum tells the history of one of the nation’s most important industries. You can learn about the development of early railroading and how it changed the culture of America forever.

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Let's Go on a Tour of BALTIMORE!

Let the experts do all the work and show you the best of Baltimore.

Baltimore is a beautiful city and with our city guides and online navigation systems like Google Maps and Waze, it’s more than easy to explore it on your own. Even so, you won’t get the insider experience as you would while on a tour. Often hosted by locals who are experts in their field, these tours are fun and filled with information. Here are some of the best Baltimore tours you should check out the next time you’re in Charm City. Baltimore’s Historical Sightseeing Tour Join organizations such as Baltimore Heritage to explore the city’s historic neighborhoods, towering buildings, and amazing sights. These informed guides conduct private or combined group tours via walkin Baltimore Monuments Walking Tour Celebrate Charm City’s historical architecture and landmarks with the Monumental City Tour hosted by Baltimore Heritage. The tour is held every Sunday from April to November and previews landmarks such as Battle Monument, Washington Monument, Federal Hill, and Phoenix Shot Tower amongst other lesserknown landmarks.

Food Tour in Baltimore Fells Point, Mount Vernon, Little Italy, and Federal Hill are just a few of the places foodies are going to want to explore. Baltimore is a cultural hub and Baltimoreans come from all over the world, so there’s no better place in Maryland for a person to explore than Charm City. Charm City Food Tours will take you through several family-owned restaurants. Bite of Baltimore includes a local walking tour of the neighborhoods as you visit four different restaurants for a progressive dinner which will include appetizers, entrees, desserts, and cocktails.

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Baltimore by Bike Tours Explore the neighborhood and get your exercise in with biking tours in Baltimore. Bike and Brunch Tours is a great choice if you have a group of people who’d like to bike through Baltimore while stopping at one of the many local partner restaurants to brunch in. You could also join the Trolley Pub for a pedal-powered, pubon-the-go tour where you can bike through Baltimore with a couple of beers in hand. Charm City Pedal Mill is another bar crawl on wheels where all you have to do is pedal, drink, and enjoy yourself. It’s a guaranteed good time!

Baltimore Scavenger Hunt SelfGuided Tour

Forget the usual sightseeing tours and get interactive in Charm City with the Baltimore Scavenger Hunt Self-Guided Tour. Download the app within minutes and explore the city at your own pace while learning about local history. The scavenger hunt is filled with puzzles and quizzes as you come across iconic landmarks in the city. It’s so much fun to do with a group of friends and is sure to be a memory of Baltimore you’ll treasure.

Instagram worthy spots around BALTIMORE!

If you didn’t post it on Insta, did it even happen? Your girl loves nothing more than a good Instagram post. Unnecessary close-ups of food? I got it. Posed “candids” of me laughing? I got it – thanks to my patient husband! And this is why I’m so thankful that my hometown of Baltimore is filled with Instagram-worthy spots. I’m going to share some of my best ones with you guys for your next visit to Charm City. Note that the addresses listed may not be the actual address but the location you can put into your navigation for the closest location to the spot. The BUS Stop I know you’re wondering why an actual bus stop would be an awesome place to take a photo, but this particular one is a giant typographic sculpture that spells out the word ‘bus’. With each letter measuring 14 feet tall and 7 feet wide, the structure serves not only to let people know where the stand is but to provide a place for passengers to lounge and interact with the community. Climb inside the letters and pose away; most of the people who stop by there come for the photo op! You can find it in front of the Creative Alliance headquarters that helped erect it alongside the Spanish art collective, mmmm…., and local sculptors.

Graffiti Alley A haven for both street artists and Instagram models, Graffiti Alley is where you can let out your creativity. Become the artist by picking up one of the many spray paint cans lying around and adding your own tag or pose in front of the works of local and visiting artists. Keep an eye out for the works of Baltimore-born street artist @nether410 while there and on Instagram! The George Peabody Library Often listed as one of the most beautiful libraries in the world, The George Peabody Library is an Instagram lovers’ dream come true. Towering Victorian columns holding up cast-iron balconies going up five floors to a stunning skylight; it’s historic and romantic and just the perfect backdrop for a dramatic Insta post.

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Rawlings Conservatory & Botanic Gardens The Rawlings Conservatory and Botanic Gardens in Baltimore is one of the city’s most Instagrammed spots, from inside the greenhouse and in front of it! The greenhouse itself is a beautiful beige and glass structure surrounded by landscaped gardens; there are stairs directly in front that make for the perfect photo with the greenhouse in the background. The inside houses a large collection of gorgeous palm trees and tropical orchids. Pro tip: go in the mornings when there are fewer crowds so that there isn’t anyone in the background. Bromo Seltzer Art Tower Where can you have a photoshoot inside of a working clock tower? In Baltimore’s Bromo Seltzer Art Tower of course. The historic building is filled with evolving art exhibitions and installations; the elevator then takes you up 15 floors to a ship ladder which takes you to the industrial clock room. Photos in front of the inside face of a large clock? You’ll be envied by all your Instagram followers.

Patterson Park Pagoda In general, Patterson Park is a very Insta-friendly attraction in Baltimore. Spanning nearly 300 acres, there is so much to see and do as you walk around Maryland’s version of Central Park. The pagoda is one of the park’s key features and its unique detailed architecture makes for the perfect backdrop for your next post. Painted Lady Rowhouses The “painted ladies” are what Baltimoreans call the colorful row homes you’ll find in Charles Village. The homes contrast in color from one to the other and create a vibrant background to pose in front of. You’ll find the splashy scene gracing Baltimore websites, postcards, and now, Instagram posts.

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2022

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Twist Travel Magazine #15

Articles inside

TWISTFAVORITES:ISLANDBOUTIQUEHOTELS

COLORADO'S NATIONAL PARKS

THE TWIST

ECO DESTINATIONS

GLOBAL FLAVORS 29 | 1000 ISLANDS

3-DAYS IN TOFINO, BC

SEASONAL FAVORITES

STYLE TREND ALERT! SNEAKERS

SHE GETS AROUND: EVIE FARRELL

TRAVEL 101: A GELATO A DAY