Twist Travel Magazine Issue 10

ISSUE 010

LOUISIANA ROAD TRIP

BUDGET V. LUXE FINGERLAKES

SPRING COCKTAILS IN BLOOM ZOMBIES IN JORDAN PUERTO RICO ICELAND'S WESTFJORDS

editor's note What a spring! Little did I know back in February that the last trip I would take would be to Morocco with my oldest son. It was an incredible trip that gave us a taste of spring weather, an amazing insight into a fascinating country and - naturally - the chance for me to buy lots of local pottery. I'm using it a lot now that we're at home.

While this global situation is not what any of us anticipated, it has reminded me that there are so many ways we can bring travel into our lives through the flavors we cook and drink with, the books we read, the movies we watch and the decor we add to our homes. And of course, we can still dream of a future travel experience.

This issue, we are bringing you to the deep south for an in-depth look at Louisiana: expect delicious gumbo, a weekend guide to New Orleans, tips for enjoying Mardi Gras and a great selection of books that really bring the South - and its history and its culture - to life.

We also take you on a girls' trip through Iceland's WestFjords, a trip that we hope you will join us on next year as we plan more mom getaways as well as mom/kid trips. If you can't make it, you can wander through luxury in Sardinia, eat your way through Puerto Rico or escape to Jordan with and without the kids in tow.

We hope you are all safe, happy and well. Keep planning those trips, as we will pull through these hard times and the world will be ready to welcome you back again with open arms.

KERYN MEANS , EDITOR-IN-CHIEF @KERYN_MEANS

Contributors

Angie Orth

Anne Taylor Hartzell

Cheryl San Emeterio

Claudia Laroye

AngieAway.com IG @angieaway

CiaoBambino.com IG @ciaobambino

alovelymoment.com IG @cherylsanemeterio

thetravellingmom.ca IG @thetravellingmom

Erin Kirkland

Genevieve Buckmiller

Jade Broadus

akonthego.com IG @akonthego

walkingontravels.com IG @genevieve_maria

vagabond3.com IG @vagabond3

Jesseca Hallows onesweetappetite.com IG @1sweetappetite

Jessica van Dop DeJesus

John Tillison

Katja Gaskell

Kathryn Dickson

DiningTraveler.com IG @diningtraveler

ParkRangerJohn.com IG @ parkrangerjohn

globetotting.com IG @globetotting

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Kirsten Maxwell

Lindsay Garbacik

Lindsay Nieminen

Melissa Conn

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IG @ lindsaygarbacik

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Issue No. 10 Publisher: Walking On Media LLC

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Editor-in-Chief: Keryn Means Contributing Editors: Claudia Laroye, Amy Whitley and Tawny Clark European Editor: Katja Gaskell Food Editor: Rachael Hutchings Copy Editors: Natalia Badziak Designers:

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4 | TWIST

Table of Contents 5 | THE TWIST

24 | DISCOVER THE LUSH SIDE OF SARDINIA

The promise of spring brings a pastel cocktail rainbow, indoor floral decor, global foods and more.

Revel in the Mediterranean luxury of this sun-soaked island playground off the coast of Italy.

7 | SOUTHERN READS TO INSPIRE ROADTRIPS

28 | PUERTO RICO: A JOURNEY WITH MY DAUGHTER

Bask in the warmth of the American South through the pages of these inspiring books.

Rediscovering the beauty and magic of an island homeland with child in tow.

11 | A RAINBOW OF SPRING COCKTAILS

32 | JORDAN: FOOD, CULTURE... AND ZOMBIES

Gin takes its place in the spring sunshine as the base for gorgeous and delicious cocktails.

Discover the history, cuisine and warm hospitality that makes this destination a jewel in the Middle East.

16 | ECO TRAVEL LIST

40 | INTO THE UNKNOWN: WESTFJORDS

Plan your future travels with these sustainable tips and companies in mind.

Venture to the land of ice and fire on a late summer girls' getaway adventure in Iceland.

18 | BUDGET V. LUXE: THE FINGER LAKES

47 | TWIST FAVORITES: ALTERNATE SPACES

Two ways to enjoy this surprising wine region in upstate New York.

Five of the most unique places and spaces to lay your head, from up in the trees to down by the sea.

20 | SHE GETS AROUND: RISA MATSUKI

53 | SPOTLIGHT ON LOUISIANA

How one woman is sharing her love of music and travel with her wee one.

Feed your soul with the best food, festivities, itineraries and road trip tips through this Southern Belle.

the

A QUICK GUIDE TO THE SEASON

Spring has sprung and with it a few of our favorite cocktails, quick dishes and books to help you ease into summer, planning your next trip (or a year's worth). Plus Spring finds we have added to our online shopping cart to bring travel into our homes.

TWIST | 5

Seasonal

Favorites

BY LINDSAY GARBACIK

Spring is here! After a long and bleak winter, it’s finally time to break out the floral home decor, your light sweaters and to start those spring cleaning projects you’ve been putting off all winter long. Get ready for (finally!) warmer weather with our list of some fun spring upgrades for both you and your house.

BEAUTY

FASHION Pave Oval Huggie Earrings Adinasjewels.com • $52 Dainty hoops like this are perfect for layering up your ear, but are pretty enough to stand on their own. With its huggie closure, there are no pesky backings to get stuck in your hair or stab you in your sleep. They come in gold and silver and are quite affordable for such a trendy pair of earrings.

22mm gold watch Larssonjennings.com • $188 A vintage feel, contemporary features and the option to choose between sizes and metals, this watch has something for everyone. It was created in partnership with WeWoreWhat founder, Danielle Bernstein, and inspired by the metropolitan character of New York City.

EMOH 6 | TWIST

Kamal Folding Multi-Hook Urbanoutfitters.com • $49 The perfect hook to hang up the family’s hats, rain coats and million sport bags this spring. All while keeping your house modern, functional and tidy. Available in both a small and large size.

ReNew Traveler Tote Everlane.com • $88 Get organized this spring with this cute pale pink catch-all tote. Made entirely of recycled nylon, it's environmentally sustainable and also protects from rain. You can see for yourself exactly where the bag was manufactured and what kind of work environment it is, to ensure it comes from well compensated craftsmen rather than a huge factory of underpaid workers.

Isi Art Print Society6.com • $37.99 - $71.99 This mixed media print is the perfect decor for the woman who loves traveling and the outdoors. It's made

by Heather Heininge, an artist featured on Society 6’s curated artist showcase. Do good and feel better by purchasing art from an actual artisan, rather than some mass-produced piece. Print available in multiple sizes.

Imperialis Moisturizer Lush.com • $26.95 This versatile moisturizer balances combination skin and provides max hydration. It includes lavender oil which is said to keep skin at an equilibrium between too oily and too dry, while calming the mind with its essential oil properties. Bonus: it smells amazing and is completely vegan!

KITCHEN Reusable Silicone Sandwich Bag Stasherbag.com • $11.99 Made of pure silicone and endlessly reusable, the Stasher line of bags is the answer to eliminating single-use plastic bags.

They come in a rainbow of fun colors and are completely microwave and dishwasher safe.

These sustainable bags make packing lunches and meal prepping a breeze.

Talavera Pitcher Novica.com • $97.99 Infuse your home with the colors of Mexico while supporting local artisans. Artist Juana Ponce, works in the traditional Talavera style and paints each pitcher by hand with colorful floral motifs. These bright patterns are sure to bring a taste of springtime into your home.

Venezia Vase Anthropologie.com • $28 Brighten your table with these colorful and delicate vases. Each vase is made of handcrafted glass, ensuring a unique shape every time. They come in four pastel colors and will beautify any springtime bouquet.

Twist Southern Reads

BY ERIN KIRKLAND • AKONTHEGO.COM

“YOU KNOW, A HEART CAN BE BROKEN, BUT IT KEEPS ON BEATING, JUST THE SAME.” THE ACCOMPLISHED GUEST

THE SUMMER GIRLS

By Ann Beattie • Enjoy a collection of short stories centering around heartfelt changes in life, from aging to friendships and unconventional romances. This is a masterful book that explores the best — and worst — of all people through capitavating prose and witty responses.

By Mary Alice Monroe • Set in the lowcountry of South Carolina, readers are transported to lush Sullivan Island for a summer reunion of three half-sisters and their crafty grandmother determined to rekindle the family relationship of “her girls.”

SOUTH AND WEST: FROM A NOTEBOOK

By Joan Didion • This road trip journal traces the route of writer Didion and her husband during the summer of 1970 through Louisiana, Mississippi, and Alabama. You’ll follow the oppressive heat and mellow pace of life and discover class and culture in a way usually only locals understand.

THE GULF: THE MAKING OF AN AMERICAN SEA

By Jack E. Davis • No one knows more about the history and culture of the Gulf of Mexico than historian and professor Davis, who transports readers to a new way of looking at the “South’s favorite body of water.”

This Pulitzer prize-winning book also offers a good dose of reflection in this age of climate change, conservation, and protectetory regulations.

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES AT THE WHISTLE STOP CAFE

By Fannie Flagg • This iconic and folksy novel published in 1987 weaves together the past and the present through the blossoming friendship between Evelyn Couch, a middle-aged housewife, and Ninny Threadgoode, an elderly woman who lives in a nursing home.

SWAMPLANDIA!

By Karen Russell • When you’re 13, life in general seems odd, but even more so for Ava Bigtree, who has lived her entire life at Swamplandia! alligator-wrestling park in the Florida Everglades. When her mother becomes ill, Ava and her father, sister, and big brother face challenges far beyond that which lurk in the murky waters of the park. A read for all tween or teen girls, especially those curious about life in the Deep South.

TWIST | 7

Recipes

8 | TWIST

SWEDISH RED CABBAGE

BY RACHAEL PEDRANTI • RACHELSCRAFTEDLIFE.COM

This red cabbage dish is a traditional Swedish side dish that is served with a variety of main dishes such as Swedish meatballs. Red cabbage grows well in the short summers of Scandinavia so it is widely available which probably contributes to its popularity.

Red cabbage reheats very well so be sure to make plenty for leftovers Serves 6-8 INGREDIENTS • 1 medium red cabbage 3 tbsp butter 1 medium onion (finely chopped) 2 medium apples (peeled, cored and finely chopped) 2 tsp caraway seeds 4 tbsp redcurrant jelly or 2 tbsp corn syrup 3 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tbsp water salt and pepper to taste STEPS 1. Prep all your ingredients. Quarter the cabbage and remove the tough stem then slice each quarter very thinly.

2. In a large frying pan melt the butter then add the chopped cabbage. Stir well and fry on medium heat for 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper and add the onion, apples, caraway seeds, white wine vinegar and water.

3. If you are using corn syrup add that now. If you are using red currant jelly add it in 30 minutes before it is done.

4. Cook on the stove on low heat for approximately 1 1/2 to 2 hours until the cabbage is very softened. Stir occasionally and add a little water if the dish starts to dry out.

5. Taste the red cabbage once it is softened to check the seasoning. If it is too sour add more syrup (or jelly) or if it is too sweet add more vinegar.

Recipes

Shepherd’s Salad

Çoban Salatasi

BY RACHEL HUTCHINGS • LAFUJIMAMA.COM

This simple salad is found on restaurant menus all over Turkey. If you are making it ahead of time, do not add the dressing until right before serving, otherwise the salad will become watery.

Makes 4 servings INGREDIENTS 2 large tomatoes (or 3 Roma tomatoes), chopped 2 Persian cucumbers, or ½ English cucumber, chopped ½ medium red onion, or sweet onion, finely chopped 1/4 cup fresh parsley (loosely packed, coarsely chopped) 3 – 4 mint leaves, very finely chopped (optional) 2 tablespoons lemon juice 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil 1 teaspoon sumac (optional) 1 cup pitted Kalamata olives (optional) Salt and pepper, to taste STEPS 1. Put the tomatoes, cucumbers, and onion into a serving bowl.

2. Add the parsley, mint leaves (if using), lemon juice, olive oil, and sumac (if using) and toss gently to mix. Add salt and pepper to taste.

3. Let the salad rest at least a few minutes before serving to let the flavors develop.

4. Stir in the Kalamata olives right before serving.

TWIST | 9

Recipes

10 | TWIST

Almond Biscotti INGREDIENTS 2 3/4 cups flour 1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder 1/4 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup butter, melted and cooled slightly 1 cup sugar 3 large eggs 2 teaspoons pure almond extract 1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

STEPS 1. Whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt in a medium sized bowl. Set aside.

5. Preheat your oven to 350 degrees.

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and set aside.

2. Combine the butter and sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer. Stir until combined. Add the eggs and extracts and continue to mix until incorporated.

6. Divide your dough into two equal pieces. Shape each dough half into a loaf that is 16x2 inches. Place on your prepared baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes. *See note below

3. Add the dry ingredients to the wet ingredients. Mix on low until your dough forms.

7. Cool for 15 minutes then slice into 3/4 inch pieces. Place, cut side down, back onto your cookie sheet and cook for 10 additional minutes.

4. Cover dough and chill for 30 minutes.

NOTE: This dough is rather sticky. Run your hands under cool water when forming the loaves to help keep it from sticking to your hands.

Recipes

A Rainbow of Cocktails

BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK • PHOTOGRAPHS BY TYLER MALLORY • TYLERMALLORY.COM

After the grey days of winter, nothing feels quite as fresh as a palette of beautiful pastels: from clothes, to flowers, bright colors bloom everywhere. Why not expand that rainbow right on into cocktail hour and celebrate spring with a bright array of floral flavors?

We are in a renaissance of gin right now. Dominated for centuries by the London Dry style, characterized by a definitive juniper nose, modern distillers are turning the rules upside down and creating a variety of profiles that feature more florals, citrus and other unique ingredients.

One of the most impressive of these new distillers comes from Victoria, BC, Canada. Empress 1908 Gin is a distinctive deep indigo blue in the bottle - a natural colorant derived from butterfly pea blossoms. Combined with traditional botanicals like juniper and citrus, as well as some unusual additions like ginger, grapefruit and tea, Empress is lovely and smooth on its own. But the magic really happens when you blend it with an acid like tonic water, or a squeeze of fresh citrus.

The indigo color shifts from blue to pink, creating a gorgeous palette perfect for spring cocktails.

Another unusual gin comes from Whitley Neil Distillers in the United Kingdom, Rhubarb Ginger gin. The floral, herb and zing of this gin takes the distinctive flavors of spring - rhubarb, bright florals - and ties it to the classic juniper backbone.

The delicate symphony of classic flavors and modern notes, combined with the beautiful visuals, inspired these travel themed cocktails. Enjoy!

TWIST | 11

Recipes

12 | TWIST

Afternoon in Paris

Rose Liqueur: we used Wild Rose liqueur from Vom Fass; there are many alcoholic and non alcoholic options on the market.

You’ve just whiled away the afternoon at the Musee d’Orsay, killing time in the galleries before passing the flower vendors pouring out of their shops, on the way to aperitifs at a chic cafe. Floral, bright, layered, and beautiful, this cocktail is like a late afternoon stroll through the City of Lights.

2 oz Empress Gin 1 oz rose liqueur Dash celery bitters 1 tsp champagne vinegar 1 tsp saffron syrup Squeeze of fresh lemon Soda water Fresh cracked pink peppercorn for garnish Fill a shaker with ice. Mix Empress gin, rose liqueur, bitters, vinegar and saffron syrup; shake well until frothy. Pour into a highball; top with a splash of soda water and a squeeze of lemon juice. Crack fresh pink peppercorn on top.

The Duty Free Duty free sunny afternoons brought about by a quick stop at Duty Free leaving London… luckily, this gin is now available at select vendors worldwide, so you may not need your passport to get a glass of this perfect garden party sipper!

2 oz Whitley Neill Rhubarb Ginger gin 1 tsp pickled ginger juice Squeeze of lemon Soda water Crystalized ginger for garnish Fill a rocks glass with ice. Pour in gin and pickled ginger juice. Squeeze in lemon juice, then top with soda water.

Garnish with crystalized ginger.

Recipes

Kyoto Sunrise

Yuzu, a wonderful Japanese citrus, plays with Empress to create the rich pink of cherry blossoms in full bloom in this brunch-ready delight. Serve in a coupe for an elegant vintage feel.

2 oz Empress Gin 1 oz yuzu juice Prosecco Pomegranate arils (seeds) In a coupe, layer in Empress gin, then the yuzu. Top with prosecco and garnish with pomegranate arils.

Yuzu juice: Bottled yuzu juice can be found at specialty foods stores and Asian markets. If unavailable, substitute 3 tablespoons fresh lime juice and 1/2 tablespoon fresh orange juice.

International Relations Gin from Canada, hibiscus syrup inspired by a beachside cafe in Mexico, Japanese satsumas: this round-theworld list of ingredients is very easy to source and delicious when combined.

2oz Empress Gin 1oz hibiscus syrup Juice of 1 satsuma or mandarin (or, in a pinch, cuties) Soda water Lime for garnish

A NOTE ON INGREDIENTS

Measure out the hibiscus syrup and satsuma juice into a rocks glass. Fill with ice, then pour in Empress gin. Top with soda water and garnish with a lime.

Hibiscus syrup: Common in many cuisines and often mixed with still or sparkling water for a refreshing nonalcoholic drink. Buy dried hibiscus at a local hispanic market in bulk or make your own: Take 1 cup sugar and 1 cup water in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve sugar. When sugar is dissolved, turn off heat.

Add hibiscus petals. Let steep 20 minutes or more.

Strain out petals. Keeps for up to a month in the fridge.

Satsuma: A type of seedless mandarin orange with thin skin. In most citrus producing areas, satsuma mandarin is the preferred name, but satsuma tangerine is also used. They have a short growing season, usually available in the US in January. Substitute with other sweet citrus like tangerine, mandarin orange, and cuties which are all close cousins.

TWIST | 13

Style

14 | TWIST

Flirting with Spring

BY CHERYL SAN EMETERIO • ALOVELYMOMENT.COM

FLORAL DRESS

Dress down a floral dress with a casual denim jacket… a straw bag and white espadrilles breathe spring into this outfit.

Abercrombie $79

Nordstrom $83

ASOS $135 JEAN JACKET

Old Navy $30 ESPADRILLES

ASOS $36

STRAW CIRCLE BAG

Amazon $22

Style SATIN SKIRT

Kohl's $36

Not sure how to style a satin skirt? Pair it with a buttoned up cardigan in a similar hue - the monochromatic look is broken up with some staple mules.

Banana Republic $79 CARDIGAN

Everlane $100

J. Crew Factory $29 MULES

Target $22

Zappos $66

TWIST | 15

16 | TWIST

Eco Travel

TWist Eco Travel List The Twist Eco Hot List returns, bringing you the latest environmentally friendly travel news from around the globe!

BY ZOEY GOTO • ZOEYGOTO.COM

ENERGY-POSITIVE HOTELS ARE THE FUTURE First there was energy-neutral, now the travel buzz is for energy-positive destinations. 2022 will see the opening of Svart in Norway’s Artic Circle - the world’s first energypositive hotel. Generating more energy than it uses, the fjord hotel also aims to be fully off-grid, carbon neutral and zero waste: svart.no/en PLASTIC BOTTLE ROOFING Jao Camp in Botswana has found an innovative use for our old plastic bottles, creating hardwearing artificial thatch for roofing. The eco safari camp runs on solar power and also has a citizen-science bird-monitoring program: wilderness-safaris.com LEAVE NO TRACE TRAVEL European tour company Rabbie’s have implemented a ‘leave no trace’ policy. Visitors are encouraged to litter pick, travel quietly and observe wildlife from a distance, ensuring their groups travel in a non-damaging way and preserve the site as found: rabbies.com GREEN APPS Savvy travellers know that apps can help their sustainability goals. TripIt have just added a new feature to calculate your journey’s carbon footprint, offering practical ways to offset flight emissions. Omio, a multi-transport booking platform and app, helps you find the fastest, cheapest and most environmentally-friendly route for their journey via plane, train, bus or ferry.

SHHH! QUIET TRAVEL IN SRI LANKA Overtourism is a serious problem – just ask the residents of Venice or Barcelona. The Sri Lankan hospitality group Amber Collection have made responsible tourism their core ethos, only setting up in off-the-beaten-track locations that will redistribute tourism across the island.

Locations so far include a Modernist hotel deep in the jungle and two luxury houseboats on a tranquil lake an hour outside of Colombo: theambercollection.com AUSTRALIAN BUSHFIRE REHABILITATION Following Australia’s devastating bushfires, the familyowned tour operator Australian Wildlife Journey has introduced itineraries to assist affected areas. Group conservation activities include tree planting and wildlife counts for species such as koalas, cockatoos and other species impacted from the bushfires: australianwildlifejourneys.com

Travel Planning 101

Planning a School Year's Worth of Travel in One Go

BY ANNE TAYLOR HARTZELL • CIAOBAMBINO.COM

GETTING YOUR FAMILY ORGANIZED FOR ANNUAL VACATIONS CAN BE EASIER THAN YOU THINK. THESE STEPS WILL HELP YOU PROACTIVELY PLAN YOUR FAMILY’S PRECIOUS VACATION DAYS AND LOCK IN KEY TRAVEL DATES BEFORE OTHER COMMITMENTS FILL UP YOUR CALENDAR. HERE'S HOW TO GET PLANNING! ORGANIZE YOUR SCHOOL CALENDARS AND BLOCK OUT KEY DATES

CHECK FARE SALES AND SIGN UP FOR AIRFARE ALERTS

Gather up all your family members’ schedules for academics, sports and activities. Highlight free time in your family calendar, and then check for overlap or gaps. Are there key sports tournaments or recital dates that you can’t miss? Where do you have flexibility? Are there commitments you can decline in order to make a bucket-list trip or a long weekend getaway possible?

Asking these questions will help you get a broad view of your time for family travel and where you can carve out breaks.

Planning ahead will save you money. You can track airfares for key dates for the year, particularly those in peak season. Once you know your travel dates, book that airfare as early as possible for best rates. If you have school-age children, especially middle or high schoolers, you’ll most likely need to travel during peak times when everyone is traveling, which means higher fares.

SCHEDULE A FAMILY VACATION PLANNING MEETING Get your kids involved in the travel planning. Talking over a family dinner is a great time to chat about what new places to explore, when is best to go, who to travel with, and what kind of holiday is desired. Older kids can be vocal about their opinions and just as busy.

If you have older kids a few years shy of college, planning these family trips is even more important.

DETERMINE YOUR TRAVEL BUDGET Making travel a part of your annual financial planning helps determine how much you can afford to travel, where you can go, and most important, how you can save for those bucket-list trips. Once you’ve sketched out your travel plan, ensure your budget matches those dreams, or find the ways to make that happen.

LEVERAGE A TRAVEL ADVISOR TO PUT THE WHOLE YEAR TOGETHER Time is a precious commodity. If you don’t have hours to search online, consider outsourcing your family vacation planning to an expert who can recommend where to go, where to stay and once-in-a-lifetime travel experiences for your family. Ciao Bambino Family Travel Advisors are experts in pulling together a spectacular trip your family will remember forever.

LEARN TO SAY NO SO YOU CAN SAY YES TO PRECIOUS FAMILY TIME We only get 18 precious years to spend time with our kids under our own roof. Make the most of it and be committed to carving out this time to travel together.

Say no to those extra commitments and say yes to plugging in together — it gives everyone permission to step off the hamster wheel, deepen your family connection and raise more compassionate, culturally aware kids with no regrets. They will thank you for it.

TWIST | 17

Travel Budget 101

18 | TWIST

The Finger Named by USA Today as the No. 1 wine region in the country in 2018, the Finger Lakes are best known for more than 100 wineries surrounding 11 lakes. But with 16 state parks, 135 museums, 80 art galleries, 400 registered historic sites, more than 1,000 waterfalls and gorges, 650 miles of lakefront, 100 waterfront restaurants, 50 farmers markets and 160 golf courses, the Finger Lakes has it going on whether you’re into reds or whites or nature or crafts or scenery or cuisine...

Over the summer, we filmed THE JET SISTERS: FINGER LAKES in and around Seneca and Keuka Lakes and found this gorgeous region to be surprisingly uncrowded and easy to navigate considering how much there is to do. If you’re on a budget and just want a quick weekend escape or if you’re keen to splash out on a weeklong wine extravaganza, we researched the best ideas for hotels, restaurants and memorable things to do when you visit. Cheers!

BUDGET

Activity: Watkins Glen State Park An absolute can’t miss in the Finger Lakes! This spectacular two-mile hike through a breathtaking gorge is well worth a half day wander. The gorge path winds over and under waterfalls, through stone tunnels, spray and moss, and past rainbows bouncing off towering cliffs in every direction.

Parking is $8 and admission to the state park is free.

Lakes Budget vs. Luxe

BY ANGIE ORTH AND RACHEL ORTH THEJETSISTERS.COM & ANGIEAWAY.COM

Hotel: Plum Point Lodge Finding a central home base in a sprawling region like the Finger Lakes is a must. Peaceful, purple Plum Point Lodge on the shore of Seneca Lake fit the bill just right!

Serene and cozy with a variety of accommodation options including yurts, a vintage farmhouse and traditional hotel-style rooms, Plum Point is an idyllic spot to gaze out over the lake at sunset with a bottle of local Reisling and a slice or two of onsite restaurant Sapalta’s famous plum pizza.

Dining: FLX Wienery That’s not a misprint - this restaurant on State Route 14 is a special kind of winery, a one-of-a-kind wienery featuring locally sourced food including house mad brats, hand-ground burgers, chorizo and gourmet sides.

Along with a great wine selection, there are spiked milkshakes, and the best part? It’s fast, it’s casual, it’s budget friendly and there are a lot of unprintable sausage puns to enjoy while you wait for your lunch.

LUXE Activity: Finger Lakes Seaplanes The only way to appreciate the vastness of the Finger Lakes and to experience the unique Y shape of Keuka Lake is to do it from way up high. Enter a 1950s Cessna and Finger Lakes Seaplanes’ experienced pilots. You’ll take off out of Harbor Lights Marina and whether you choose a 30-minute experience or a longer trip, you’re sure to see the wineries, lakefront restaurants and gorgeous farms that make this area so special.

Hotel: Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel Lakefront views are such a treat to wake up to in the Finger Lakes, and one of the best is found at Watkins Glen Harbor Hotel on Seneca Lake. It’s centrally located in the region so you have easy driving access to festivities at Watkins Glen International Raceway and heaps of wineries. Plus, most suites have balconies overlooking the lake - perfect for watching sunrise or sunset.

Dining: Veraisons at Glenora Wine Cellars Executive Chef Orlando Rodriguez chooses all the meats, cheeses and produce served at Veraisons from 30 nearby farms. His team pickles and preserves local fruits and veggies, and they make all the condiments, sauces and dressings from scratch. We loved overlooking the vineyards while sipping the very Glenora wine grown right there. What a treat!

WANT MORE? THE FINGER LAKES IS A GREAT PLACE TO TRY THINGS YOU’VE NEVER DONE BEFORE. DON’T MISS THE INCREDIBLE CORNING MUSEUM OF GLASS. WE EXPLORED THE EXPANSIVE COLLECTION OF GLASS FROM ANCIENT TIMES TO PRESENT DAY, THEN MADE OUR OWN GLASS FLOWERS. TRY GOAT YOGA AT THE LOVELY ZIEGENVINE HOMESTEAD, A FARM WITH PRIMITIVE TENT SITES, ECO TOURS AND HOMEMADE GOAT’S MILK SOAPS IN SAVONA, NY. BOOK A SUNSET SAIL ON THE SCHOONER TRUE LOVE, A 67’ SAILBOAT BASED IN WATKINS GLEN. IT WAS FEATURED IN CLASSIC FILMS LIKE “PHILADELPHIA STORY” AND “HIGH SOCIETY.”

TWIST | 19

She Gets Around

20 | TWIST

RISA MATSUKI: VICE PRESIDENT PROMOTION - BEGGARS GROUP

BY KATJA GASKELL • GLOBETOTTING.COM

Risa Matsuki is the Vice President of Promotion at Beggar’s Group, an international indie label group with its headquarters based in London. Beggar’s Group have multiple labels under their umbrella including Rough Trade, Matador and Young Turks. Some of the artists signed to their labels include American rock band The National, jazz saxophonist Kamasi Washington and British singer-songwriter Adele.

As VP of Promotion, Risa is always on the road. It’s her job to promote the artists represented by Beggar’s Group to radio stations all over the country. She’s responsible for working out which radio stations should be playing their music – and then convincing the station that she is right. She also regularly travels with the bands when they are on a promotional tour, meeting contest winners, taking part in meet and greets and, of course, playing gigs.

Before Risa became a mum to 20-month-old Reiko (who they call Rei, for short), she was on the road three weeks out of every four. Now that little Rei is in the world, she doesn’t travel with work quite so much but when she does, she's got a new traveling companion.

Reiko has been on 43 flights since she was born and attended over 50 concerts. She is most definitely a kid that was born to travel.

We sat down with Risa to chat about her life, her cool job, her traveling sidekick and what she loves most about traveling with kids.

CAN YOU TELL US A LITTLE BIT ABOUT YOURSELF? I was born in Tokyo and raised in Himeji, a little Japanese town located between Hiroshima and Osaka. I moved to California for college, going to Golden Gate University in San Francisco, and ended up living there for 25 years. In 2012, I moved to New York for my role at Beggar’s Group and have lived here for the last eight years.

WHEN DID YOU FIRST START TRAVELING? My mom says she first put me on a plane when I was six months old. I grew up relatively fearless of traveling because my dad was the VP of International Marketing for Pan Am (Pan American) airlines. We were often traveling because of his job so it became second nature to me.

At that time, Pan Am were one of the few airlines that had international offices and my dad spoke excellent English. So, we spent some time living in New York and Chicago when I was really young.

We also traveled a lot as a family for fun. From pictures, I remember that we went to London, France and Spain.

When I was older, we went on multiple trips to Puerto Rico and Hawaii – my dad liked going to places where it was sunny! Jamaica, the Bahamas and some other tropical places were also holiday spots for us. We also traveled within the US, going to places like Niagara Falls, Washington DC and Florida.

I always remember our vacations being such a treat and understanding the value of them. I remember being in Hawaii and thinking, “Oh, this is so different to home.”

DID TRAVEL SHAPE YOUR CHILDHOOD? I believe so. When you do it and it feels like second nature you don’t think about, you don’t hesitate, you just do it. I think a lot of people are afraid to travel because of all the things involved. For me, it’s just part what I do.

That’s why I didn’t even hesitate to bring Rei along on that first trip.

Traveling has made me want to explore more and I like exploring places that are different. I can have all the normal that I need at home, when I travel, I want to go somewhere new.

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HOW DID YOU END UP IN YOUR CURRENT ROLE AT BEGGAR’S GROUP?

WHERE HAS BEEN YOUR FAVOURITE PLACE TO TRAVEL WITH REI?

I’ve been an avid concert goer since I was super young.

Then, when I was in high school in New York, internships were being offered at record labels. I qualified for one of them and started interning at Universal Music (which was called Polydor/Polygram at the time). I was able to get class credit and learn about the music industry and I remember thinking, “yes, this is what I want to do!”.

Because of her age, I think London was probably our favorite place so far. She’s at that point where she recognizes and points out things that she likes. She saw the London Eye and made noises like she was trying to talk up a storm. We did a full sightseeing tour and she got to see London Bridge where we sang the nursery song, and we saw the changing of the guards at Buckingham Palace.

Of course, at that time, I didn’t know that a job like the one that I have now actually existed. I thought I wanted to be an A&R person (the person responsible for talent scouting). So, I started working at radio stations, management companies, anywhere and everywhere that allowed me to learn about music. I then got a job at Sony in 2000. I had a really bad boss, which meant that I had to do everything. This ended up being the best thing for my career, however, and thanks to him I ended up where I am today.

WHAT DO YOU LOVE MOST ABOUT YOUR JOB? Being involved in the artists’ career, successes and excitement of a new journey for them gives me the biggest thrill. When I hear their song for the first time on the radio, I get goose bumps every time, as if I was the artist. Knowing that so many people are now exposed to the good music we have still gives me joy every day.

WHEN DID YOU FIRST START TRAVELING WITH REI? I first put Rei on a plane when she was just two months old when I had to go to Los Angeles for work. Since then we’ve incorporated family vacations into some of my other work trips. I was in Madrid, Spain, recently and we added on a few days for the family after that. We’ve also been to Rhode Island on vacation, L.A. and London.

She always knows when she’s going on an airplane too.

She’ll run to the window to look at the planes parked and wave “byeeee”.

WHERE IS ON YOUR WISH LIST FOR 2020 (AND BEYOND)?

I really want to take Rei to Africa. Her favourite animals are the ones in the Savannah, the rhinos, elephants and giraffes. I would love to take her on safari. The other vacation that I’d like to do is a beach one, like I enjoyed with my parents. Somewhere with sunshine and where the ocean water is warm.

She Gets Around

WHAT ARE YOU TOP THREE TIPS FOR TRAVELING WITH KIDS? 1. Start them early. The earlier you start the quicker they get used to things like the cabin noise on an airplane and the air pressure. When they’re young, they don’t know any different, it just becomes normal to them.

2. Try and time flights to coincide with their sleep schedule. If I’m taking a six-hour flight then I’d like it so that at least three of those hours are during her nap time.

3. Bring the things that make them happy. I didn’t buy into the iPad / iPhone thing until recently so I just used to bring the toys and books that she liked. And snacks, lots of snacks! Now there’s one thing that she likes on the iPad and it’s songs by Pinkfong!, the company behind that horrible song Baby Shark. They make a million other videos and she loves them.

HAVE YOU HAD ANY FAMILY TRAVEL DISASTERS? So far, all our travels have been really great except for one flight back from L.A. Rei had a meltdown for no particular reason and because I’m not used to it, I was so panicky and didn’t really know what to do. I felt bad for everyone around me as my daughter lay on the floor having a tantrum, kicking her legs and refusing to get up.

That’s the only time it happened and it was tough.

WHY DO YOU THINK IT’S IMPORTANT THAT CHILDREN TRAVEL? Traveling was such a great experience for me growing up and I want Rei to have the same experiences.

I do not want Rei to sit here at any point of her life and think “this is all that I want.” I want her to want everything! I want her to see everything and to experience everything. I don’t want her to sit here and think that she’s going to be here in New York forever.

I will never stop exploring the world with her.

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Sardinia COSTA SMERALDA

BY SHELLIE BAILEY-SHAH • KIDTRIPSTER.COM

As the former geography bee champion on Mona Shores High School, I need to begin with a confession.

When I recently had the opportunity to travel to Sardinia, I eagerly accepted and then immediately turned to Google to see where in the world this island and her tempting azure seas were located.

Embarrassing, I know.

Located 116 miles off the coast of western Italy in the Tyrrhenian Sea, Sardinia sits between the French island of Corsica to the north and her better-known, Italian sister Sicily to the south. Roughly the size of Vermont, Sardinia is surprisingly varied, with Caribbean-like cyan waters and sugar sand beaches to arid expanses dotted with millennial olive trees and towering granite peaks.

Once you see the photos of Sardinia, you’ll ask yourself, “how is it that I didn’t know this place existed?”

I think I know the answer. Truth be told, I haven’t been running with the right crowd. Sardinia is a mecca for jet-setting, wine-sipping, yacht-owning millionaires and billionaires. The history of how that came to be is fascinating. In the 1960s, Prince Shah Karim Al Hussaini, Aga Khan IV - the spiritual leader of Ismaili Muslims and one of the wealthiest men in the world and a group of investors bought and developed a 35mile stretch of coastline here, later dubbed Costa Smeralda, or Emerald Coast. Since then, sleepy Sardinia has become a playground for the rich and famous, particularly during the months of July and August.

You don’t have to shop at Dolce & Gabbana to appreciate Sardinia’s sun-kissed shores however. While not a budget travel destination, you’ll find Sardinia a tad less expensive during the shoulder season - Easter through June and then again in September. You’ll also find fewer crowds on the white sand beaches, at the Bronze Age archaeological sites, at the award-winning wineries, and inside the locally-owned restaurants where you’ll, of course, indulge in more pasta that is good for you!

We found two fabulous family-owned properties near Costa Smeralda in the Gallura region for our Sardinian sojourn. They are both ideal bases for exploring the island’s hidden treasures.

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PLAY One of my favorite things about Villa del Golfo is the fullservice concierge. You can book uniquely Sardinian experiences right from the hotel - day trips focused on local art and crafts, Neolithic archeological sites, and of course, wine - of which, Sardinian produces some of the finest vintages in all of Italy. But above all else, I’d recommend booking a day on the water, lest you miss out on what draws visitors here from around the world.

Villa del Golfo Lifestyle Resort SLEEP Perched on the hills overlooking the Gulf of Arzachena and the terracotta roofs of Cannigione, the views from my luxury suite at Villa del Golfo Lifestyle Resort where simply stunning. It’s a view that I enjoyed from the oversized terrace, from my private plunge pool and from the peek-a-boo window in my walk-in shower.

Yes, a shower with a view!

While this family-owned, boutique hotel boasts 38 rooms - all decorated with the nature-inspired ceramics of celebrated local artist Caterina Cossu - I think that the luxury suites high on the hill are worth the splurge, particularly suites 83 and 85. And there were no worries about hiking up and down. A quick ring to the front desk, and within minutes, a friendly staff member would arrive at my villa with a buggy to whisk me down the hill through the resort property which resembles a little Italian village in its own right.

Surrounded by lush bougainvillea, I enjoyed the generous breakfast buffet served on the veranda next to pool. Below, I could make out a grove of olive trees lining the shoreline where the resort has a platform for swimming and sunbathing.

The resort charters its own sailing yacht, named BonAria, with Captain Andrew at the helm. He’s a no-nonsense Aussie who’s been navigating the Maddalena Archipelago and waters around Sardinia for more than 40 years. While during high season, we'd have been passing some of the most expensive yachts in the world, in September we enjoyed the sea mostly to ourselves, along with the pink sand beaches of Budelli and turquoise coves of Spargi.

We dropped anchor for snacks of fresh fruit, salami, Sardinia’s famous Pecorino Romano cheese and later black squid ink pasta, all accompanied by a glass of Prosecco. While some of my companions took a dip in blue-green (but chilly) waters, I planted myself firmly on the bow, taking in the picture-perfect scenery. It was a memorable day, to say the least.

EAT Guests can enjoy a deeper dive into Sardinia’s culinary traditions with a cooking class at La Colti Farm and Restaurant, which - like the resort - is owned by the Filigheddu family. Here, you’ll meet the owner’s charming sister, Prisca, who’ll take you on a pasta-making journey, from ravioli and gnocchi Galluresi to a pasta dessert called seada. This deep-fried semolina dumpling is filled with soured Pecorino cheese and lemon zest covered in honey and sugar.

I’d also recommend having lunch at the Filigheddu family’s other restaurant, The Cutter Lounge in Cannigione overlooking the public beach. The handsome tables here were crafted from eucalyptus trees harvested from the family’s farm. Order pizza, whose thin crust is made from organic, stone-ground flour. Delicioso!

Gabbiano Azzurro Hotel & Suites

SLEEP

PLAY

Farther south along the Gallura coast, the generous Datome family has been welcoming return guests to Gabbiano Azzurro Hotel and Suites for more than 50 years. While it would be easy for Sergio and his wife Antonella to rest on the property’s laurels, they’re constantly improving on this luxury property.

Hotel staff are at your service to book excursions and make recommendations on how to spend your time. In addition to luxury yacht or speed boat rentals, you can embark on a sunset cruise with complimentary apéritifs to see the bay’s resident bottlenose dolphins. Or spend the day wine tasting in the rolling hills surrounding Gabbiano Azzurro.

The 80-room resort is divided into two sections - the older, more traditional hotel and the new luxury suites whose décor matches the colors of the sea. Again, I think that it’s worth the added expense to reserve a luxury infinity-edge pool suite. The view overlooking the village of Golfo Aranci to the east and the sea and zero-entry, saltwater pool are worth every penny.

Each suite includes a reserved lounger and a cheeky, fringed sun umbrella to enjoy the resort’s white sand beach. The water is shallow, clear and colored in a multitude of blues and greens. Nearby, you can snorkel or dive the MuMart, an underwater art museum.

EAT In the evening, you can dine by candlelight under a white-curtained beach gazebo with your toes in the sand.

Or join other guests in either the White or Blú Restaurants, where fresh Sardinian seafood is always on the menu. Stroll into Golfo Aranci, where - during the tourist season - restaurant patrons spill out onto the cobblestone streets.

GETTING THERE Sardinia has three international airports: AlgheroFertilia/Riviera del Corallo Airport, Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport and Cagliari Elmas Airport. They're connected to major Italian cities and many European destinations. Staying along Costa Smeralda, I found it most convenient to fly from Milan to Olbia.

It’s also possible to make a ferry crossing with Corsica Ferries from Livorno in Italy (9 hours) or Nice in France (13 hours) to Golfo Aranci.

Peak season is July and August. You’ll find prices are high and tourists are plentiful. Most of the island’s resorts close from October through March.

I particularly enjoyed Siddùra, a relatively new winery started in 2008 that’s producing award-winning wines in a stunningly beautiful setting. You can combine a guided wine tasting tour with stops at a few of the islands more than 7000 nuraghi, ancient megalithic structures that date back to 730 B.C. You’ll also find hiking trails in nearby Capo Figari Nature Preserve that end at secluded, pristine beaches. Keep an eye out for mouflon, Sardinia’s wild sheep.

During the peak summer season, Porto Cervo is a hub for high-end shopping, dining and nightlife on the island.

Porto Rotondo is a charming marina town where the Via del Mar walkway is made up of artistic fish whose eyes light up at night. The mountain town of Tempio Pausania is a perfect spot to grab a gelato and walk its candy-colored cobblestone streets.

Stop at Anna Grindi Atelier, a shop which sells dresses, shoes and bags made entirely from Sardinian cork, which is harvested in the area. End your day of sightseeing in San Pantaleo with a glass of wine in the town square and watch as the setting sun bathes the granite rock formations - 300 million years in the making - in golden light.

In the end, you’ll have experienced Italy in a completely different way from the tourist-packed streets of Rome and Venice, while still delighting in Italy’s food, culture and never-ending hospitality.

PUERTO RICO

REDISCOVERING MY HOMELAND WITH DAUGHTER IN TOW

Jessica Van Dop DeJesus • TheDiningTraveler.com

Sonnenalp Hotel, Colorado

ican R o t r e Pu very s i e r u cult dly, n e i r f family e ls tak a c o l and ids their k here. w y r e ev I clearly remember my first plane trip as a child. It was 1984, and I was five years old. My mom, brother, and I traveled from Rochester, NY, to San Juan, Puerto Rico. This journey wasn't a vacation, but a permanent move to Puerto Rico. On our Eastern Airlines flight from New York City to San Juan, I kept asking my mom all these questions about Puerto Rico. She hadn't lived on the island since she was eleven, so she didn't know much herself. We traded our snowy winters for the continuous sunshine of the southern coast of Puerto Rico. My father's dream was to retire in his hometown of Guayama. I spent my formative years in this small city on the beach with colorful homes, a picturesque town square, and a close-knit community.

Fast forward to 2019. I now had a child of my own— an energetic toddler who holds two passports: one from The Netherlands and another from the United States. By the time she was two, she had traveled to ten countries and three continents. However, she had yet to go to the land of half of her heritage, Puerto Rico. I had been traveling to Puerto Rico often as I was promoting my book, The Dining Traveler Guide to Puerto Rico. However, those trips barely allowed me to take a dip in the ocean, let alone tag along with a toddler.

Finally, the opportunity presented itself to bring my daughter and my husband to Puerto Rico as the mayor of my hometown invited me to do an exhibition of images of my book at Museo Cautino, a museum in the heart of Guayama's town square. I wanted my family to be there for the opening, especially my daughter, who at the time was two and a half years old.

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Getting There

Traveling to Puerto Rico with kids is quite easy. First of all, it's a short flight from any major city on the east coast. We live in Washington, DC, and the flight is less than four hours. Most airlines offer a non-stop flight, including Southwest and Spirit from BWI-Baltimore, Jet Blue from DCA-Washington Reagan, and United from IAD. We ended up with the United flight because most of our frequent flyer miles come from United.

Since we were going to be traveling around the island, we rented a car because public transportation in Puerto Rico is not very good. There's a reliable Uber network in San Juan, but that's about it. If you want to explore beyond San Juan (which I recommend), I highly suggest you rent a car. All of the mainland U.S. cellular networks work in Puerto Rico, and Google Maps is pretty reliable. I've found many off the beaten path beaches and waterfalls just from looking them up on the app.

Where to stay

For this trip, we did a combination of lodging: staying with family, Airbnb, and hotel because I wanted to make the most out of the experience throughout the island. Puerto Rican culture is very family-friendly, and locals take their kids everywhere. I love going to the countryside on the weekends where you see many local families out and about, and in many cases, it is multi-generational. Seeing grandparents, parents, and extended family enjoying their family time is always fun.

The advantage of booking a vacation rental in Puerto Rico is that you get all the fees up-front. If your goal is to spend your time exploring outside the property, this is your best bet. We stayed at a rental during our stay in my hometown because there are no hotels, and loved the flexibility of having a kitchen and not having to deal with a resort or parking fees. If this is more your style, focus on an area you want to explore. The southern and east coasts of the island offer shallow and calm-water beaches, which are perfect for children.

If you want to go full-on vacation mode and get a hotel, there are plenty of options to choose from at every budget.

For the luxury family travelers, I suggest The Ritz Carlton Reserve Dorado Beach. This gorgeous property has a huge pool, a shallow lagoon perfect for the little ones to swim, and one of the most idyllic spas, perfect for any parent who needs self-care.

Resorts such as Caribe Hilton and Wyndham Rio Mar also have spacious, family-friendly rooms, big pools, and easy beach access in a relaxed environment. Also, smaller, localowned properties such as Combate Beach Resort and Candelero Beach Resort offer family specials, pools, and quick access to the beach.

What to do

Let's start with the beaches! I was so surprised that my daughter still talks about the beaches in "Tanto Rico" (how she lovingly called it) months after our trip. Given that we don't live close to the beach, we fit in a variety of beaches for us to experience during our trip. My favorite familyfriendly beaches in Puerto Rico are the following: Balneario de Carolina: This beach is located on the outskirts of San Juan and offers parking, bathrooms, volleyball courts, and other fun activities for kids.

Mar Chiquita: This lagoon-style beach on the northern coast is a local family favorite. My daughter had a ball chasing the small waves with her friends.

Beyond the beaches, there's also great nature to explore. Go for a hike at El Yunque, the only rainforest in the U.S. National Park Service. Most of the trails have reopened since Hurricane Maria. For an adrenaline rush, head to Toro Verde to experience one of the longest ziplines in the world and catch the picturesque views over the mountains of Orocovis. If you are raising little foodies, head to Guavate, in the mountains of Cayey for roasted pork and decadent side dishes.

Traveling to Puerto Rico with kids can be as adventurous or Balneario Luquillo: With its clear water, shallow beach, and relaxing as you want it to be. With my daughter, I tried to be laid-back vibes, Luquillo is one of my favorite family beaches. as adventurous as you can be with a toddler. Our trip was a Also, it has ample parking, bathrooms, and plenty of beautiful opportunity to show her my hometown and swim restaurants at the adjacent kiosks. at some of the beaches my father took me to as a child.

Combate Beach: Located in the southwest town of Cabo I look forward to returning with her as she grows and gets Rojo, this picture-perfect beach is like swimming in nature's to experience some of the same things I had the pleasure of pool. Bonus: Stay for the spectacular sunset. doing when I was a kid growing up on the island.

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Jordan BATTLING ZOMBIES AND FEARS OF THE UNKNOWN WHILE TRAVELING THROUGH THE MIDDLE EAST

BY KERYN MEANS WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

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THE ZOMBIES WERE OUT TO GET ME. I WAS CONVINCED. HOW COULD I LEAVE MY WARM LITTLE BED IN A BEDOUIN TENT WHEN THE HOARDS WERE OUT THERE? I ROLLED OVER TO SEE IF MY BUNKMATE WAS STILL ASLEEP. HER BED WAS EMPTY. POPPING OUT OF MY WARM DOWN SLEEPING BAG, THROWING MY SHOES ON, I SPRINTED OUT THE DOOR OF OUR TENT IN THE BEDOUIN CAMP JUST OUTSIDE OF LITTLE PETRA IN JORDAN.

Arriving in Amman, making my way down to Wadi Ram with Experience Jordan, a local tour operator, I’ll admit, I was nervous. As an American, we are fed a lot of stories about the Middle East - woman aren’t safe; we must stay covered up at all times; everyone hates the Americans; pretend you are Canadian. Nothing could be further from the truth in Jordan. Across much of the Middle East you will find much of the same - a kind, joyful people, who are family-focused, welcoming and happy to meet Americans who care enough about their culture to want to learn more.

“Helen!” I whisper yelled. “Helen?!” A very blurry-eyed blonde turned on her heels, stomping back in my direction. Thankfully, Helen's brains were still intact.

Phew! “Wait for me. I’m coming too!” I frantically informed her. Together, we made the arduous trek to the toilet in the camp - all 200 feet down the path from our tent - and back.

AMMAN TO PETRA

We survived. High fives for another zombie-free night.

In case you didn't already know, there is a lot to see between Amman and Petra. The historic city of Jerash is one of the best examples of Roman architecture in the region, with several temples to both Greek and Roman gods, including Artemis, Athena, Zeus, Hera, Apollo, Poseidon, Nemesis, as well as inscriptions to the Nabataean gods, the people who built Petra.

As you might have already guessed, I have a wild imagination. There are no zombies in Jordan, unless you count the people, like me, getting off a 12-hour flight from the U.S., who try to see more than they should just after arrival at Queen Alia International Airport.

I was on a cultural tour, traveling from Amman to Wadi Rum with 11 other travelers excited to dive into the antiquities, historic sites and food of Jordan. We would learn the history of the area, how it became a nation and why so many people love to visit each year.

In Amman, we visited the Citadel, another historic site filled with temple ruins, a mosque and a museum dedicated to the archeological finds (vases, jewelry, and sculptures) in the area. The Citadel of Amman sits on one of the city’s seven hills. It was a stronghold since the Bronze Age up until the 13th century. The views of the city are worth the admission price, as you look out over the city catching a glimpse of the kites flying overhead and pigeon training and racing that happens at 3:30pm each afternoon.

South of Amman, we visited the bibilcal sites of Mount Nebo, where many believe Moses died. According to the Bible and many historical texts, Moses wasn't allowed to enter the Holy Land, so he looked into Israel from atop this mountain. Today, on a clear day you can see the Dead Sea and into Israel. A small museum tells the story of the area and pilgrims who have been traveling to this spot since at least the 4th century when a church was built. Several churches have existed in this space, and today, a new church stands housing ornate floor mosaics, including a small chapel to pray in.

While many visitors don't stop in Little Petra, we would spend a day there, sleeping in a Bedouin camp, learning about community projects like a local school and women's weaving cooperative. I wasn't thrilled about the idea of camping, but learning how another culture lives and survives together was fascinating as it was so outside my comfort zone (thus the zombie dreams).

PETRA There is no way I was going to Jordan without seeing Petra, which is located in Wadi Musa. But all I knew from photos and travel shows was the Treasury. I had no idea that this UNESCO World Heritage site was so large. We could have hiked for days into this city stronghold built by the Nabataean people. Instead, we only had one day to see as much as possible. If that was the case, I had to get moving.

We hiked from the entrance to the Treasury (about 2km or 20 minutes) and up a small hill for views over the site.

Knowing we only had one day, we didn't linger like most tourists or turn around. We headed deep into Petra, leaving the crowds behind as we made our way to the Monastery.

While the hike up the steps was exhausting, I'm so glad we made it. Not just for the snacks (yes, there is a tea shop and snack stand) but to see a site that was just as impressive, if not more so, than the Treasury. One of the biggest regrets for a few in our group, is that they didn't make the climb. Next time, they will know better.

WADI RUM While Wadi Rum was a must on my list, being one of the most recognizable deserts in the world, thanks to the many movies it has been featured in, including Lawrence of Arabia, Mission to Mars, Transformers, The Martian, and Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker, I was nervous. It meant another tent, which meant more possible zombie attacks. Thankfully, my tent was closer to the toilet, and those toilets backed up against the sandstone and granite rock that is a hallmark trait of Wadi Rum. It felt a bit more protected. There were also a whole lot more of us, as our group had met up with a biking and hiking group as well. When I needed to brave the zombies at 1:30am, there were still plenty of travelers chatting, listening to music and enjoying the local Jordanian wine we had brought in.

It had been cold in the desert, even hailing while we drove around in 4x4s, seeing where Lawrence of Arabia's house once stood, and spots where Star Wars: The Rise of Skywalker was filmed. But, camping was worth it to see this vast expanse of desert. Helen would go on to ride camels back to the entrance our final morning, while I opted for sleeping in and taking the truck. It had been a late night of stargazing after all.

We had survived, my new friend and I, both of us used to more glamorous accomodations. I for one, was ready to bring my family back, camping and all, but maybe next time, I'd find a camp with an ensuite port-a-potty or something.

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take the kids to jordan

BY LINDSAY NIEMINEN • CARPEDIEMOURWAY.COM

WORLD WONDER, UNESCO SITE, CONSTANT TOP 10 FINISHER FOR MUST-VISIT PLACES IN THE WORLD, PETRA, THE JEWEL OF JORDAN, SEDUCES ONE MILLION VISITORS EACH YEAR. SOME OF THOSE VISITORS INCLUDE CHILDREN, LIKE MY OWN. While Jordan is a far cry from Disneyland, it does not mean that it is not family-friendly. Whether it is exploring ancient Roman Sites like Jerash, riding in the back of a 4x4 and camping in Jordan’s breathtaking desert, Wadi Rum, snorkeling off the coast of the Red Sea or exploring the ancient Nabatean capital of Petra, there is plenty to do for adventure-loving families.

Visitors to Jordan will find a country full of smiling and friendly locals with a genuine joie-de-vivre, love of country and fierce pride in showing it to guests. While Arabic is Jordan's official language, families will find English spoken in all hotels and restaurants throughout, as the country relies heavily on the tourism industry.

Jordan has a diverse bio-geographical climate and landscape and is home to more than desert-like weather. Much of the country sit at 1000m above sea level and these high elevations often see snow in the winter months. For parents with children who love hiking, there are dozens of hiking opportunities all over the country. Whether it is sections of the Jordan Trail, which runs over 400 kilometres from the far North of the country to the Red Sea in the south, or hiking in Petra to the 2000-year old Monastery, there is no shortage of diverse hiking options.

Jordan is also home to the lowest place on Earth, where families can float at the Dead Sea and enjoy the beach resorts during their travels. Watch out for fresh cuts or sensitive skin as the mineral-rich water can be quite uncomfortable for some children.

For those looking for adventure, Wadi Rum is many kids' favourite part of the country. Not only can they ride in the back of a pickup truck as it crosses the wide expanse of desert that they may have seen in the latest Star Wars film, but they can run up and roll down sand dunes, enjoy sweet bedouin tea with locals and camp under the Milky Way in a traditional bedouin tent.

Petra should be enjoyed over a few days, and be sure to manage your expectations with younger kids, as their little legs will find the walking and hiking tiresome. With a few small distractions, whether it is searching for orange kittens or a donkey ride, a cool drink or sweet treat, or climbing Al- Khubtha trail to reach the Pokemon Gym from PokemonGo, parents can motivate kids to keep moving. My boys insist on trying all of the different modes of transportation inside the site, from camels to donkeys to horse and carriage rides, weaving the ancient past trade routes into the narrative or their understanding of the place.

The warm Red Sea waters offers families some beach time and warm temperatures, as well as some of the best snorkeling and diving in the world. If you have kids who love the water, ensure that you include time in Aqaba on your trip to Jordan.

Roman ruins are evident throughout the country, but the remains in Amman and the city of Jerash offer the best preserved remains of this once glorious Empire.

Children can wander through the massive ruins and use their imaginations to picture what life would have looked like if they had lived alongside the Romans.

STAYING SAFE IN JORDAN Jordan is a safe country, despite the unrest outside its borders. Theft or violence against tourists is uncommon and unlikely, although visitors should use the same common sense that they would use at home, or in any other country. Like in any destination, scams against tourists can occur. If something feels off, it possibly is.

Read up on taxi scams, and avoid flirtatious advances from some of the more assertive locals in Petra.

Jordan can easily be seen on a self-drive itinerary, but if you want to avoid the hassle of navigating your own way and get a real sense of the people and the rich history of the region, taking a tour or hiring a licensed guide will make your visit that much better.

WHEN TO GO April and May and September through November are the best times to visit Jordan for warm weather, blue skies and to avoid the hot summer heat and cold and wet winter weather.

For such a small country, Jordan packs in ancient monuments, mouth-watering cuisine, world wonders, and out-of-this-world landscapes. But it is its people who will make you fall in love with the country and want to return to feel their warm welcome again and again.

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my love affair with Jordanian food

The delicious cuisine of Jordan is similar to many of its Middle Eastern neighbors. It features fresh vegetables, roasted and grilled meats, and a variety of mezze - small, tasting plates meant to be shared.

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

My time in Jordan was marked by visits to stunning ancient sites and magnificent natural wonders. But it was the nation's cuisine that made a lasting impact upon my travel memory. Discovering new tastes is one of the best parts of travel. Similar to other Mediterranean countries, Jordan's food scene is dominated by the freshest of local ingredients, a simplicity of preparation and the power of tradition. From Abud to Zarb, here’s our guide to Jordan’s 'must eats'.

mezze Mezze are small plates for sharing in groups, similar to tapas. Mezze can consist of olives, salads, dips, and various appetizers, and are always accompanied by pita bread or shrak (flat bread).

Hummus: You will find hummus on every table in Jordan. This healthy, blended spread includes chickpeas, tahini paste, garlic, olive oil and lemon juice, and is the perfect dip for pita bread or falafels. The addition of pomegranate seeds adds color and crunch.

Falafel: Fried balls of chickpea flour and local spices.

The best falafels I enjoyed during my time in Jordan were in the busy al fresco atmosphere of the legendary Hashem restaurant in downtown Amman. You can watch and admire the falafel production in the restaurant's open-air kitchen before feasting al fresco.

Labaneh: This thick, creamy yoghurt is usually eaten at breakfast. It's amazing mixed with honey and used as a dip for flat bread, or for warm hotel buffet croissants.

Fatoosh: This super-fresh cucumber, radish and tomato salad with toasted pita pieces is something I ate every day in Jordan. It’s crunchy, savory and just plain delicious.

Tabbouleh: A mezze salad of tomatoes, chopped parsley, bulgar wheat, lemon juice, mint, garlic and onion.

main dishes Abud: An unleavened Bedouin bread baked in ash. How a simple dough of flour, water and salt baked in such a unique way can be so incredibly delicious is a desert miracle.

Ful (or Foul) Medammas: Popular in Egypt as part of a filling breakfast, pots of ful can found at many Jordanian hotel buffets and roadside stalls. This hearty fava bean and chickpea stew is topped with myriad spices and toppings, such as olive oil, lemon juice, za'atar or chili pepper. It's perfect for dipping with some shrak flatbread.

Mansaf: The national dish of Jordan. Meat, usually lamb or goat is simmered for hours along with dehydrated, salted yoghurt balls and water. It’s served on rice and often eaten along with shrak.

desserts Dates: A plate of sweet dates is a perfect way to end a meal in Jordan. There are so many varieties of dates to choose from, as a walk in any local souk will demonstrate. Jordanian markets carry dates from all over the Middle East, and one vendor shared that his personal favorites come from Iraq. Don't leave the Queen Alia Airport in Amman without a box or two of dates as gifts. They travel very well.

Knafeh: Sweet and decadent dessert of white cheese, semolina bits and covered in sweet syrup and pistachios.

A visit to Habibah in Amman is a go-to dessert stop while in the capital. A little knafeh goes a long way!

beverages Mint Tea: Sweet, minty and delicious. I loved it so much that I couldn't leave Jordan without buying a pound of mint tea leaves at the souk in Aqaba to take home.

Coffee: Coffee is a ritual in Jordan, especially with the Bedouin. Their Arabic coffee ceremony involves grinding fire-roasted coffee beans and cardamom, then serving the brew in small espresso-sized cups. Aromatic and strong.

Shrak: Flat bread, perfect for dipping into hummus, ful, mansaf, and slathering with thick labaneh.

Lime and Mint Juice: A refreshing, cool drink to enjoy after a hot outing. You'll wonder why we don't find this at home, it’s the perfect hot weather refreshment.

Zarb: Bedouin barbecue. Meat (often goat) and vegetables are cooked in large underground pit.

Popular on overnight Wadi Rum desert excursions.

Wine: Though alcohol is uncommon in Jordan, you can tour and taste local Saint George wines at the Zumot Wine Academy or Vineyards of Omar Zumot.

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VENTURING INTO THE WESTFJORDS

BY KATJA GASKELL, GLOBETOTTING.COM KERYN MEANS, WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM

Iceland is one of those destinations that gets under your skin, making you want to return again and again. I first visited this Nordic island nation with my family and we enjoyed the country’s ‘Greatest Hits’ over a long weekend. For my second visit, however, I was keen to venture beyond the well-trodden path of Reykjavik and the Golden Circle. Fortunately, Iceland has plenty of roads less traveled.

I joined two of my girlfriends, Tamara and Keryn, for a girls’ road trip discovering Snaefallsness Peninsula and the Westfjords. This region is the oldest corner of Iceland, home to cinematic landscapes, characterful fishing villages and communities so remote that once winter falls, they can be shut off for months. It’s the Iceland of myths and legends and one that we couldn’t wait to explore.

Our guide for our five-day trip was Ryan, co-founder of local tour company Hidden Iceland. The company is relatively new but they’ve already established an excellent reputation for small, personalised trips that allow you to gain a deeper understanding of the country.

They also practice sustainable tourism, offsetting carbon emissions from all trips and working hard to minimise overtourism.

The four of us met in Reykjavik and jumped in the car, heading northwest towards the Snaefallsness Peninsula.

Not long after leaving the capital we were driving past vast lava plains, the black craggy rocks splashed with mossy green hues.

Two hours after leaving Reykjavik we had crossed onto Snaefallsness. At only 90km long you can, in theory, visit the peninsula in a few hours but we soon discovered that this charming corner of Iceland deserves much more time.

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Our first port of call was Budakirkja, the Black Church, seen on hundreds of Instagram photos. From here we headed further west, stopping at Raudfeldsgja Gorge along the way. This stop is not usually included in tours of the Snaefellsnes peninsula but one of the joys of having a private tour was that we could pull over wherever we wanted.

This narrow canyon in the cliff wall is quite spectacular and involves some careful scrambling over slippery rocks. After an hour here we continued on to the basalt cliffs at Arnarstapi, one of my favorite stops of the entire trip. The towering basalt stacks and columns that you see here were formed when lava cooled and contracted very quickly creating a unique, and dramatic, hexagonal shape.

Continuing west along the peninsula we saw Lóndranga, a volcanic plug that rises sharply from the coastline, and then the black sand beach at Djúpalónssandur. Home for our first night in Iceland was the small town of Stykkishólmur, a charming fishing village peppered with wooden houses in rainbow colors. Dinner at the cozy Sjávarpakkhúsid was superb and I still dream of their seafood stew.

The following day we continued our loop around the peninsula, stopping at Saxhóll, a volcanic crater dating back some 3,000 years, and Kirkjufell, the most photographed mountain in Iceland. Also called Arrow Mountain, this majestic peak featured in various episodes of the Game of Thrones and now receives a steady swarm of visitors – and photographers – daily.

But no matter how much we were enjoying Snaefellsnes, it was time to move on to our next destination, the Westfjords.

Stretching out like gnarled fingers into the icy waters of the Denmark Strait, the Westfjords is the oldest corner of Iceland. The rugged landscape was formed over 16 million years ago, carved by the ice age glaciers. The nature is spellbinding with steep mountains and deep fjords, majestic waterfalls and natural hot pools, and plenty of wildlife including puffins, eagles and arctic foxes.

We were going to spend our first night in the Westfjords in Heydalur, tucked away into the corner of one of the fjords. But before we could check into our Icelandic guesthouse, we had some sightseeing to do. Our first stop was at Erpsstadir, a family-run dairy farm that makes Skyr, cheeses and delicious homemade ice cream.

The farm makes for a welcome pit stop driving around the Westfjords and provides fascinating insight into life in this remote part of the country.

Nearby is Eiriksstadir, a re-creation of a Viking longhouse. Guides in traditional Viking clothing introduced us to life in this homestead that once belonged to Erik the Red and Leif the Lucky. We left wishing that we too, had Viking names. From here we continued west, stopping in the small town of Budardalur for lunch and arriving in the late afternoon at Country Hotel Heydalur.

Day two started with a trip to the Arctic Fox Centre in Sudavík, a rescue and educational center for rehabilitating wild arctic foxes. There are somewhere between 6,000 and 8,000 wild arctic foxes in Iceland and we were lucky enough to meet two while we were here.

We then moved on to the town of Ísafjordur. Meaning ‘Ice Fjord’, this is the unofficial capital of the West Fjords and the largest settlement in the region with a population of around 2,600. Ísafjordur has been a trading post since at least the 16th century and there is certainly a last frontier feel to it.

Sitting at the base of rugged mountains with the clouds rolling in, this fishing community is the gateway to the island of Vigur. Our visit in late August coincided with the last boat to sail across to this remote island before the seas became too rough. I would argue that the sea was rough enough when we made the crossing!

Vigur, also known as Paradise Island, is home to over 80,000 puffins during the summer months.

Unfortunately, however, they had already departed by the time we arrived. One hardy couple lives on Vigur year-round, making a living harvesting down from Eider ducks to make eiderdown duvets. More affordable were the delicious cakes they bake for curious - and hungry visitors such as ourselves.

Back on the mainland we made a quick stop in the town of Flateyri to catch a glimpse of the oldest bookstore in Iceland and then found the Kirkjuból Guest House, our hotel for the night.

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We awoke the next morning to blue skies and sunshine, perfect conditions for enjoying some of the Westfjords main attractions. The 100m-tall Dynjandi waterfall, one of the tallest in Iceland, was our first port of call. Also known as the Bridal Veil Falls, these spectacular falls are best enjoyed from multiple vantage points and we had them almost to ourselves. We then continued with our road trip, stopping countless times to take photos of yet another breathtaking view. That’s the thing about the Westfjords, it has everything that makes Iceland so magical; glaciers, mountains, fjords, volcanoes and stories passed down by generations.

The town of Patreksfjordur was our final stop and after checking into our hotel we set off to see the Látrabjarg Cliffs. These towering cliffs are the westernmost point of Iceland, home to an immeasurable number of birds during the summer months. The 400m-high crags are actually a series of several cliffs stretching for 14km as far as the eye can see. There are no safety barriers so we commando-crawled our way to the edge in search of the elusive puffin, only to be thwarted once more.

Still, had we known what was to come later, we wouldn’t have been so disappointed by the lack of puffins.

Throughout the day, Ryan had been checking the aurora forecast and, after dinner, we headed out armed with cameras and tripods, keeping everything crossed that we would spot the Northern Lights. Our quartet moved around the small town, away from the surprising number of street lights and finally spotted movement in the skies above. Slowly, surely, vivid green streaks began dancing above our heads, creating mesmerizing pictures in the sky. It was a wonderful end to an incredible trip - and already has me planning my next trip to the land of fire and ice.

2020/2021

TRIPS

Join us and wander with likeminded women or jet off on a parent/kid adventure with other adults you might actually like.

ICELAND • MEXICO • JORDAN For more trips and informaion, go to:

twisttravelmag.com/trips

AVAILABLE ON HONEYTREK.COM/CWB

COMFORTABLY

Wild

The Ultimate Glamping Guide

WITH OVER 70 OUTDOOR GETAWAYS ACROSS 9 COUNTRIES, THIS HANDY COFFEE-TABLE BOOK FEATURES ✦ Roundups of unique outdoor accommodations at vineyards, wildlife sanctuaries, hot springs, state parks, and more ✦ HoneyTrek Tips offering the best deals, local secrets, and testedand-approved travel advice ✦ Vacation Matchmaker pinpointing the best destinations for your trip style ✦ Packing lists, cooking ideas, handy apps, and booking sites to get you glamping

FAVORITES

Hotels

UNIQUE HOTELS OF THE WORLD There's more to hotels than rooms with four 90 degree walls. Our travelers have searched high in the trees and at low tide to find unique, comfortable and pleasantly affordable hotel options for families. From the west coast of the United States to the treetops of Sweden, get out-of-the-hotel-box and explore the best of glamping, tree spheres and vintage trailer accommodation.

THE SUPERMÅNE

By Claudia Laroye • thetravellingmom.ca

MANSHAUSEN ISLAND RESORT

By Tara Cannon • pintsizedpilot.com

DEPOT LODGE

By Mike & Anne Howard • Honeytrek.com

THE VINTAGES

By Tara Cannon • pintsizedpilot.com

LONG POINT ECO-ADVENTURES

By Kathryn Dickson • kathrynanywhere.com

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SWEDEN

The Supermåne

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

Imagine spending a magical night suspended in a Swedish forest, gazing at the stars above or a moose passing below. Such a place exists in the forests north of Rättvik, in the province of Dalarna, Sweden.

Located in the tiny hamlet of Furudal and surrounded by towering pine trees, the unique Supermåne (Supermoon) is a suspended sphere ‘treehouse’ and one of the most unique accommodation options anywhere in the country.

The Supermoon is attached to trees by way of strong aeronautical cabling and can accommodate up to three people in cosy comfort. Guests climb up the steps to access the little sphere in the sky, which doesn’t sway as much as you’d think.

The clear round window above the bed showcases the night sky and stars, while inside, there’s one single and one double bed, a small desk, and electric light and outlets. There’s also the most adorable little wood stove to keep you and the Supermoon warm and snug, though the canvas walls of the moon are well-insulated and keep the heat in.

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Families of four would enjoy a stay at the Oddis Oga (Oddity’s Eye), a four-person cabin on the property that looks like a spaceship but contains all the comforts of home, including that adorable tiny wood stove.

This unforgettable night in the woods can be booked by guests staying at Näsets Marcusgård, a small family-run farm and guesthouse in the Dalarna countryside.

ADDRESS

Näset Timmervägen 28, Furudal, Sweden WEB SITE

nasets-marcusgard.se STARTING PRICE

$200/night

NORWAY

Manshausen Island Resort ADDRESS

BY TARA CANNON • PINTSIZEDPILOT.COM

8283 Leinesfjord, Norway

How far would you go to truly get away from it all? How about glamping at a private island retreat just north of the Arctic Circle? That is exactly what you can do at the very special Manshausen Island Resort in northern Norway.

WEB SITE

Manshausen Island consists of 55 private acres just a 5 minute speed boat ride from the tiny Norwegian village of Nordskot. The resort is the first hotel project of renowned polar explorer Børge Ousland whose goal it was to create a unique place where guests could connect with nature. And connect they do in this remote locale while hiking, kayaking, fishing, diving, caving, and rock climbing.

Accommodation at Manshausen consists of 7 cantilevered sea cabins as well as a dorm-style lodge for larger groups. Each sea cabin has a kitchen, a front bedroom with uninterrupted sea views, as well as a back bedroom with a bunk bed (perfect for families).

Daily breakfast is included and guests have the option of self-catering for lunch and dinner, or eating in the main lodge where local specialties such as reindeer and halibut are masterfully prepared.

manshausen.no/en STARTING PRICE $200/night

With its unique northern location, Manshausen is an amazing place to experience the Midnight Sun. At this latitude, the sun doesn’t set at all in June, and sets only briefly through most of May and July (it never gets dark).

One of the highlights of a visit to Manhausen is taking a plunge in the seawater-fed pond and then warming up in their beautiful Scandic sauna. Private bookings can also be made for their wood-fired hot tub.

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VIRGINIA

Depot Lodge The town of Paint Bank, Virginia was virtually forgotten.

In the early 1900s, with the discovery of iron ore and the extension of the Norfolk & Western Railway, this town boomed. European workers flocked here to make their riches, hotels and saloons emerged from the sticks, and the train came twice a day—connecting this remote valley to the world. When the last locomotive left the station in 1932, the town drifted back to sleep in the shadows of 4,000-foot mountains.

In the 1980s the Mulheren family stumbled upon Paint Bank, only to find the train station being used for grain storage and the general store with bare shelves.

It needed their help. With their love of Virginia (Roanoke College is their alma mater) and passion for history, they poured all they had into restoring the town.

By 2002 they had reopened the train depot to the modern traveler.

No matter your needs or interests, one of the nine lodging options is sure be a winner. Families will delight in the historic Company House or brand new Ponderosa Cabin along the creek. Couples will love the romantic glamping tents (the most lavish we’ve seen for the price), the 1967 Airstream Land Yacht, and the little red Norfolk & Western caboose. To be in the heart of town, stay in the 120-year-old Station Foreman’s Cottage or cozy boardinghouse above the train station lobby. All accommodations are decorated with thoughtful details —framed train tickets, 1930s hat boxes, Appalachian quilts, and plenty of modern luxuries. Complimentary continental breakfast is served in the lobby (with refreshments all day), while glamping tents receive theirs as a morning delivery to their canvas door.

Looking for something a little heartier? The century-old general store has been brought back to its original glory and expanded with the Swinging Bridge restaurant. A little campy but totally charming, the restaurant serves Southern comfort food, from barbecue ribs prepared in their locomotive-shaped smoker to bison and veggies from their own farm. Come on a Bluegrass Thursday for the music of the mountains and poke around their little museum anytime.

Paint Bank may never return to its boomtown days, but its surrounding national forests, raging rivers, hot springs, and abundant wildlife are happier that way.

Explore dazzling caves like Lost World Caverns, bike the rail trail of the former Potts Valley train line, and go fly fishing with Potts Creek Outfitters, just make sure to enjoy some quiet time on the depot porch and listen to the wind—you may just hear the whistle blow.

ADDRESS

Route 311, Paint Bank, VA 24131 WEB SITE

depotlodge.com STARTING PRICE $109/per night

photos by Alex Herring

BY MIKE & ANNE HOWARD • HONEYTREK.COM EXCERPT FROM COMFORTABLY WILD (ISBN: 978-1493037797)

OREGON

The Vintages

BY TARA CANNON • PINTSIZEDPILOT.COM

How do you make a weekend in Oregon wine country fun for the whole family? Well, you stay at the Vintages Trailer Resort, that’s how.

With 35 thoughtfully restored retro trailers (Airstreams, Westwoods, Neutrons, Shastas and more), The Vintages in Dayton, Oregon provides a very upscale trailer park experience. The well-equipped and stylishly decorated units include such luxury touches as L'Occitane toiletries, plush terry robes and slippers, high thread count linens, gourmet pour-over coffee and more.

After a day of exploring wine country, you’ll love returning to The Vintages for a spin around on the cruiser bikes, a dip in the pool, a BBQ, s’mores around the fire pit and perhaps even a movie under the stars.

You’ll find most of what you need (including wine and party games) at their well-curated General Store. You can even pre-order full meals with their convenient Pizza and Pints, FUNdue (fondue), and Rise and Shine Breakfast packages.

The trailers are equipped with everything you need including a gas BBQ, microwave, fridge, dishes and silverware, and even a flat screen TV. Lead a busy life?

No problem. You can practically just show up with the clothes on your back and have that all important family camping (glamping) experience – without owning a single piece of camping gear.

ADDRESS ADDRESS 16205 SE Kreder Road, Dayton, OR 97114 16205 SE Kreder RoadDayton, OR 97114 WEB SITE WEB SITE the-vintages.com https://www.the-vintages.com STARTING PRICE STARTING PRICE $95/night $95/night

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ONTARIO

Long Point Eco-Adventures

BY KATHRYN DICKSON • KATHRYNANYWHERE.COM

To glamp is to camp in a glamorous fashion. It’s not roughing it in the wild in a tent on the rocks and sand.

Glamping consists of getting close to nature but sleeping off the ground on an actual bed under a roof in a nonhotel setting. There may or may not be electricity or water or a washroom at your disposal.

Long Point Eco-Adventures in Norfolk County, Ontario offers an original glamping experience of different glamping levels of accommodations combined with wine.

Yes, wine. Long Point Eco-Adventures is across the road from Burning Kiln Winery, an important fact if you care to indulge.

Inspired by a climbing trip to Kilimanjaro in Africa, the tented accommodations are very hotel-like and not so much camping. The beds at Long Point EcoAdventures are comfortable, the tents are spacious and the vibe is relaxed. Only a two-hour drive from the city of Toronto, this glamping site sits on an escarpment, overlooking the UNESCO-designated Long Point Bay World Biosphere Reserve.

I stayed in a Wilderness Suite with my children. This is a large tent on a platform with two queen size beds, a mini-fridge to store the kids' snacks and leftover food, a fan, electricity and outlets, a private flushing toilet, an outdoor shower, hardwood floors, sliding glass door that locked and a private verandah. Unless someone walks right up to your door, they cannot see in. We did not have to bring our own bedding for this accommodation.

We felt safe about leaving belongings in the tent and not

ADDRESS 1730 Front Rd, St Williams, ON N0E 1P0, Canada WEB SITE lpfun.ca STARTING PRICE $300/package

locking them in the car. We had electricity and there is wifi throughout the grounds. There are no cooking facilities with the tent, but a continental breakfast at the main building is included. I liked that I did not have to cook breakfast or clean up after myself so it felt a little more relaxed.

We liked that I wasn’t sweeping pine combs and dirt out of a tent every time we entered or exited, and it was great that we could go to the washroom in the middle of the night without leaving my kids alone in the tent. I LOVED the private front deck that faced the trees. It was nice to drink coffee while my kids slept in. I also loved the outdoor shower, especially at night, imagine having a starlight shower!

There are also camping pods that come with either a queen bed or two double beds that do not have electricity or a washroom attached. Guests there must utilize an outhouse.

The kids and I enjoyed access to adventure at Long Point Eco-Adventures. From hiking and biking trails to an on-site apiary, to adrenaline rush activities from ziplining to axe throwing to a night sky observatory, it was all there for us.

Spotlight

ON LOUISIANA

MARDI GRAS Why you should go to Lake Charles for Louisiana's biggest party

LOUISIANA FOOD

PLANTATION COUNTRY

STATE ROAD TRIP

Tasty, traditional Creole dishes made easy - plus a great southern cocktail!

Discover grand plantation houses, oak alleys and the history of the enslaved

Feed your soul with a meander through this Southern Belle

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48 Hours in New Orleans

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

For over 300 years, the city of New Orleans has been livening up coastal life in Louisiana with culture, music, food and celebration. Founded in 1718 by the French, and American by way of the Louisiana Purchase of 1803, New Orleans is a city unlike any other. It has something for everyone – incredible cuisine, history, culture, music, and of course, Mardi Gras. Here’s how to spend 48 hours in the Big Easy.

Day One There’s no sweeter way to begin a visit to this ‘little corner of France in America’ than with a beignet and café au lait breakfast. Café du Monde is the city’s most famous location for beignets (and bonus, it’s open 24 hours a day), but you can also find the decadent donuts at several Café Beignet throughout the French Quarter and Uptown.

Stroll around the grounds of National Historic Landmark Jackson Square Park in the French Quarter. The Square is directly in front of the Catholic St. Louis Cathedral, founded in 1720 and the oldest in North America. On the other side of the Cathedral is a large statue of Jesus with uplifted hands that, when illuminated at night, look as if he’s celebrating a touchdown.

Ride the historic St. Charles streetcar from Canal Street through Uptown and past the Garden District’s collection of lovely oak-shaded streets lined with historic houses and mansions on route to lunch at Superior Seafood & Oyster Bar. This well-known restaurant offers authentic Louisiana seafood and Creole-inspired dishes at an affordable price. The menu offers something for every taste, but as

its name suggests, it specializes in delicious seafood and Creole dishes ranging from po-boys to crawfish mac and cheese, seared scallops and shrimp and grits.

If traveling with kids, grab an Uber to the Louisiana Children’s Museum in City Park. Children will love the interactive learning stations where they can dig into nature, play veterinarian and care for furry creatures, snuggle into the storytelling nest, and play in the wonderful outdoor areas of the park.

For the older set and those interested in history, the National World War II Museum is a must visit, and has been designated by Congress as America’s official museum about WWII. From 4D movies to large exhibits about the wars in Europe and the Pacific, the Museum provides a powerful and educational opportunity to learn and remember so we can avoid such events ever happening again.

New Orleans’ cocktail scene is second to none. Dive into the world of Sazeracs, grasshoppers and the local spirit scene with a Doctor Gumbo Cocktail Tour. A knowledgable guide takes guests 21 and older through New Orleans’ historic and fascinating history of cocktails, with full-size tippling along the way.

Belly up to the oldest stand-up bar in the country, find out where the Grasshopper was invented, get the real scoop on absinthe, learn the origins of the Sazerac and discover hidden gems where locals have been imbibing for centuries.

TIP: GET OFF BOURBON STREET AND EXPLORE ARTS AND CULTURE ON ROYAL AND JULIA STREETS Post cocktail tour, take a seat at SoBu, a modern Creole saloon, located south of Bourbon Street in the French Quarter. Chef Juan Carlos Gonzalez prepares Louisiana street food-inspired small plates like tuna pops, gumbo, and grilled seafood to pair with creative cocktails, if you can still handle them post-tour.

Day Two Grab a latte or a New Orleans Iced Coffee at the local chain French Truck Coffee. Just look for the bright and cheerful iconic yellow and blue décor.

It’s always Mardi Gras season at Mardi Gras World!

Take a tour of the largest float designing and building facility in the world. Here more than 80 percent of the floats that journey down New Orleans' streets during the Carnival season are designed and built. Mardi Gras World provides visitors with the opportunity to don authentic Mardi Gras costumes and tour enormous warehouses filled with beautifully decorated floats. The tour includes a short video and a tour on Mardi Gras history and customs.

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Explore the city’s Warehouse Arts District, anchored by Julia Street. This rejuvenated area is packed with independently owned art galleries, museums and eateries, making it a popular part of town to explore.

Popular galleries include: the Arthur Roger Gallery, Jonathan Ferrara Gallery, Martine Chaisson Gallery, and the Octavia Art Gallery. There’s also a satellite location of the Louisiana Children’s Museum here.

Pop into the free Historic New Orleans Collection Museum on Royal Street in the heart of the French Quarter. Learn about the aspects of city life, including its historic architecture, sports history, industrial heritage and musical culture.

HOT TIP: The Shop at the Collection is the perfect place to find unique and high-quality local gifts, food, books, accessories (mini alligator bow tie!) and jewelry to bring a piece of New Orleans home.

Opened in 2019 in a former hat shop at Canal and Magazine Streets, Sazerac House is a short stroll from the original 1850s era Sazerac Coffeehouse. The modern House has been beautifully renovated, offering a fascinating and immersive exploration of the spirited culture of New Orleans on three floors of the historic building, tastings included. The second level has four interactive bars where visitors can ‘order’ from virtual bartenders who create different cocktails with different spirits. It’s great fun and very interactive.

A short walk away is Couvant, a modern French brasserie located in the stylish Eliza Jane Hotel. Enjoy cocktails and menu classics like oysters, salade Lyonnaise, duck confit and steak frites. Pop into their chic courtyard Bisous wine garden in the spring and summer months.

Enjoy lunch at the oldest restaurant in New Orleans, Antoine’s. Serving up French-Creole since 1840, this historic dining spot is on its fifth-generation relatives of its original founder, Antoine Alciatore. Oyster fans: This is the birthplace of Oysters Rockefeller.

If you’ve spent any time walking in the French Quarter, and along Bourbon Street in particular, you’ll have heard music coming from every direction. For an evening of jazz that will knock your socks off, reserve tickets for a performance at historic Preservation Hall. Located in the heart of the French Quarter on St. Peter Street, the Hall was established in 1961 to honor one of America’s truest art forms, traditional New Orleans Jazz.

Spend the afternoon exploring the past with a cemetery voodoo tour of St. Louis cemetery with Historic New Orleans Tours. Established in 1789, this burial ground vividly reveals every aspect of New Orleans history, including its Catholic heritage, aboveground burial traditions, and tales of a voodoo priestess with a modern-day following, Marie Leveau.

Preservation Hall is a cornerstone of New Orleans music and culture. The venue presents intimate, acoustic New Orleans Jazz concerts over 350 nights a year featuring ensembles from a current collective of 100+ local master practitioners. There's no better way to cap off your stay in the Big Easy then by feeding your soul with the creative music of this incredible city.

MARDI GRAS: LAKE CHARLES STYLE

BY TAI KOJRO-BADZIAK AND TYLER MALLORY • TYLERMALLORY.COM

Utter the phrase “I’m going to Mardi Gras,” and the first responses you receive will likely involve comments about the debauchery and alcohol involved. It’s unfortunate the celebration has such a risqué reputation. The truth is, Mardi Gras is a family friendly event for the communities that celebrate it the traditional way. I was delighted to discover this at the Lake Charles Mardi Gras in southwest Louisiana.

From the moment we landed we were greeted with sounds of Southwest Louisiana’s rallying cry “Laissez les bon temps rouler” which means, “Let the good times roll.” Accented with an endless soundtrack of zydeco and smiling faces, Lake Charles does not disappoint, especially during Mardi Gras.

Mardi Gras refers to Fat Tuesday, the day before Lent begins for Catholics, and the end of a season of revelry.

Mardi Gras celebrations typically fill the weeks between Epiphany/Twelfth Night and Mardi Gras itself.

The weekend leading up to Fat Tuesday is generally the most boisterous. From balls and pageants, gumbo cook-offs and crawfish boils, music and parades, Lake Charles plays host to an array of festive activities for all ages to enjoy.

SATURDAY ACTIVITIES The Lake Charles Civic Center is the heart of all the action.

Located on Lakeshore Drive, between the historical city center and Lake Charles itself, the Civic Center grounds are home to an endless festival.

On Saturday, the Gumbo Cook-off showcases more than 50 krewes' (the parades and balls organizing bodies) cherished gumbo recipes. These recipes are divided into three categories: chicken and sausage, fish and shrimp, or wild game. For a nominal entry fee attendees can sample their fill of each variety and offer their take on who should win the illustrious Spirit Stick.

In the afternoon, tails start wagging at the Royal Krewe of Barkus parade. This delightful display is a pup parade of the region’s finest four-legged friends sauntering along the waterfront park. Upwards of 100 participants vie for the position of “Top Dog,” and costumes range from the traditional accoutrements to fully decorated carts and pups.

SUNDAY ACTIVITIES It's suggested to start Sunday’s festivities well rested and with an appetite. Southern hospitality being what it is, the Blue Dog Cafe Live Jazz Brunch is a great place to begin. The café is named after the iconic subject of George Rodriguez’s artwork gracing the walls.

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The yellow eyed, blue furred pup oversees all three dining rooms with an intense gaze. Three stations offer brunch staples like an omelet and carving station, salads, fruits and deserts. The menu also features Crab Benedict with crab in lieu of an English muffin, topped with Canadian bacon and plated with gouda grits, creamed spinach, and boudin.

Sunday afternoon features the Children’s parade which kicks off at 3pm at the Civic Center. More than 50 floats participate in the parade. Some of the floats resemble elaborate pirate ships with costumed buccaneers, while others are simply spruced up trucking rigs. All are full of participants ready to shower spectators - shouting "Throw me something, Mister!" - with beads and special throws like stuffed animals, plastic cups and beach balls along the 5-mile route.

MONDAY ACTIVITIES Monday begins at a slower pace, which presents the perfect time to explore the region at the Calcasieu Historical Preservation Society at the Central School.

From pirates and buccaneers plying trade across the Gulf and Caribbean, to Victorian-era barons of industry taking advantage of the cypress and pine forests to contemporary oil and gas tycoons, this area has been a draw for generations.

The Charpentier District is named for the northern lumber magnates, who came to the southern edge of the prairie in search of their fortune. Their stately homes still line the neighborhood. Each appears like a catalog of offerings from their lumber mills, showcasing shingles, trims, and Victorian details to all who’d pass by. The new Charpentier Historic District app features all the details you need for a self-guided walking tour, with 30 or 60minute options and a ghost tour.

The Mardi Gras Museum of Imperial Calcasieu, also housed in the Central School, offers an amazing display of the local history of Mardi Gras. The Museum is home to the largest collection of Mardi Gras costumes in the world, featuring the gowns, costumes and headdresses worn by the Krewes throughout the years. Every year each individual Krewe establishes a theme. The King and Queen of the Krewe wear elaborately sequined, beaded and feathered costumes celebrating the chosen theme.

The costumes are worn at the Krewe’s Twelfth Night ball announcing the King and Queen, and at the Gala the night before Mardis Gras. They also wear the costumes following the Twelfth Night ball. This event kicks off the new Mardi Gras season and ushers in the next King and Queen. So, what do you do with a ten-foot-tall snake bedecked in ostrich feathers? Donate it to the Mardi Gras Museum!

Parent Tip: The halls of the museum are small and narrow, and not great for small children, especially if they are looking for a place to run around.

SPOT ALLIGATORS WITH GROSSE SAVANNE ECOTOURS When in bayou country, a trip to southwest Louisiana wouldn’t be complete without some alligator spotting.

Just 30 minutes from Lake Charles, Grosse Savanne EcoTours reveal the quiet beauty of the marshland that protects the mainland from the Gulf of Mexico. Grosse Savanne is one of the top 10 birding destinations in the U.S. It consists of more than 50,000 acres of natural marshland, with more than 400 species of migrating birds. In late February, the quiet landscape shimmers with flocks of white ibis, grey heron, while small alligators lurk in the reeds.

The night before Mardi Grass is when Krewe court selections are revealed to the public at the Royal Gala. The Lake Charles Gala is the only public access Royal Gala in the U.S. Anyone can see the spectacle for reasonable 5-dollar ticket. More than 60 Krewes are introduced and parade about the center, paying homage to the young Mardi Gras Queens. The Gala serves as a subdued precursor to the main event: Mardi Gras!

TUESDAY ACTIVITIES Tuesday dawns with palpable excitement in the air, people are smiling and the city is buzzing. The breakfast spots are hopping and a Bloody Mary or mimosa needs no excuse. First up is the truly unique Chicken Run, a tradition started centuries ago and held in the rural communities around Lake Charles. Chicken Run stems from a communal gumbo potluck and has since evolved into a local tradition celebrated amongst neighbors.

The major event of the Mardi Gras day is the “Krewe of Krewe Parade.” Lake Charles’ blow-out parade features all of the colorful Krewe floats winding up along Kingston Street from the Civic Center. Bring a chair, pick a spot and get ready for several hours of parade festivities. The parade kicks off at 5pm and can take up to three hours. More than 60 floats participate in the parade. Some are decorated as pirate schooners with buccaneers hanging from the masts while other big rigs blast laser lights and horns (it's a mobile dance party, blaring along at 5 miles an hour). Colorful beads, plastic cups, stuffed animals and toys fly off the trucks.

Stay alert because the throws come fast and furious!

PRO MARDI GRAS TIPS Lake Charles Hotels: Base your visit at the gorgeous L’Auberge Lake Charles, a luxury casino resort a few miles south of downtown Lake Charles.

The pools, spa, gaming facilities, restaurants and shopping opportunities offer an array of activities and relaxation for all ages on site. The luxurious rooms serve as a relaxing retreat from the Mardi Gras adventures, and the L’Bar in the lounge is the perfect place for a sip and a snack.

Lake Charles Restaurants: There's a hearty variety of restaurants thanks to the ubiquitous seafood shacks and a surprisingly rich Lebanese population serving delicious hummus and other Mediterranean delights.

Crawfish are in season from early February through the summer. No visit to the bayou is complete without some alligator and fried shrimp.

Lake Charles Information: Stop by the Lake Charles Visitor’s Center at the shores of Lake Charles. Kids' crafts, dioramas, costumes, photo ops and a small gator enclosure guarantee a little festive spirit! It’s also a great place to learn about the region. Talk with the super friendly staff about special interests and upcoming events.

Lake Charles Events: In addition to the parades and Mardi Gras related events happening all weekend, Lake Charles also has a Kids Museum and a robust art district. Receive more information at the Lake Charles Visitors Center.

Lake Charles Mardi Gras Shopping: Gather your festive gear at the Lake Charles Mardi Gras, a pop-up shop that’s been running for more than a decade.

You’ll find all the beads, masks, and, inexplicably, poop emoji hats you never knew you needed. Anything goes: purple wigs, glitter face makeup, sequins and sparkles are as welcome as jeans and a t-shirt.

As the parade wraps along with our visit, we shared smiles, hugs, and the promise of “even MORE fun next year.” Southern hospitality has a way of making you feel like family, and the Lake Charles family will always welcome you back. Laissez les bons temps rouler, indeed!

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s JEFFERSON a r G PARISH

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

The boisterous festivities of New Orleans' Mardi Gras celebrations are an exciting draw for thousands of spectators each year. The crowds are deep and the atmosphere can be jumping. The experience can also be overwhelming for many, particularly those with small children.

Mardi Gras enthusiasts and families with kids who are looking for all the fun, music and food of the season in a friendly and less intense atmosphere will find it at the Jefferson Parish Family Gras.

Family Gras is held during the first weekend of Mardi Gras season, as the Krewe and Parade schedule begins.

The three day festival is completely free for the whole family, and the large stage is home to an impressive array of local and national musical acts.

Festival goers are encouraged to bring chairs, and bags for throws of beads, cups, toys and doubloons, and to get comfortable for Family Gras' entertainment lineup.

Past performers have included Billy Ray Cyrus, Brian Wilson, Brett Eldredge, Cyndi Lauper, Frankie Valli and the Four Seasons, The Beach Boys, Marshall Tucker Band, Fifth Harmony, Tony Orlando, the Pointer Sisters, Blood Sweat & Tears, Cowboy Mouth, The Monkees, Leann Rimes, Jesse McCartney and many more.

Family Gras is the finale stop along the Mardi Gras parade route that flows through Metairie. The activities on the festival grounds keep kids and families entertained as the Krewes and Parades make their way to the Clearview Center.

Located in Metairie, a suburb of New Orleans, Family Gras takes place at Clearview Center and is a free, annual event of music, food tents, an Art Market and even a Kid's Court providing activities like face painting and games for kids 12 and under.

The festive Krewe Parades feature colorful and highly decorated floats in a variety of themes, including Roman Centurions and the Magical Krewe of MadHatters. With an Alice in Wonderland theme, the MadHatters brought whimsy, color and an incredible array of 26 floats to its inaugural parade.

The colors of Mardi Gras are everywhere at Family Gras, whether it's on the painted faces of children, the sugar dusting on King Cakes, or sported by festival goers wearing custom suits in purple, green and gold. Each color signifies the themes of justice, faith and power.

In addition to floats and their masked participants, parades feature many local high school and college marching bands and cheer squads, as well as dance troupes, musicians, and local celebrities. Family Gras is a welcome place for families to celebrate Mardi Gras.

T A S T E OF

LOUISIANA

RECIPES BY RACHAEL HUTCHINGS • LAFUJIMAMA.COM TAMMILEE TILLISON • TAMMILEETIPS.COM

Blending West African, French, Spanish, Amerindian, and Haitian influences with a large dose of Southern hospitality, Louisiana's food is legendary. Indulge in slow-cooked gumbo and classic jambalaya; have shrimp and grits for brunch and a crawfish boil for dinner; treat yourself to freshly baked beignets and - if you visit at the right time delicious King Cake. One thing's for sure, you won't go hungry in Louisiana! Here we share some of this southern state's best loved dishes for you to try at home.

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LYNCHBURG LEMONADE

BY TAMMILEE. TILLISON • TAMMILEETIPS.COM

Cool and refreshing this drink is everything you need to relax and soak up the gorgeous day. I can picture myself sitting in a rocking chair, with my feet up watching the world go by while sipping on this Lynchburg Lemonade.

INGREDIENTS 1.5 ounces Jack Daniel’s Tennessee whiskey 1.5 ounces prepared sweet-and-sour mix 1.5 ounces triple sec 6 ounces Sprite Ice Garnish with lemon slice and a maraschino cherry Shake first 3 ingredients with ice and strain into an ice-filled glass. Top with the Sprite.

Add ice and stir. Garnish with lemon slice and cherries.

BANANAS FOSTER Recipe and photo courtesy of Louisiana Travel.

This decadent dessert was created at Brennan's Restaurant in New Orleans in 1951. Combining ripe bananas, liqueur, sugar and ice cream, it makes a delicious ending to any spicy Cajun meal.

INGREDIENTS • 1/4 cup butter (1/2 stick) • 1 cup brown sugar • 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon • 1/4 cup banana liqueur • 4 bananas, cut in half lengthwise, then halved • 1/4 cup dark rum • 4 scoops vanilla ice cream

Combine the butter, sugar and cinnamon in a flambé pan or skillet.

Place the pan over low heat either on an alcohol burner or on top of the stove, and cook, stirring, until the sugar dissolves.

Stir in the banana liqueur, then place the bananas in the pan. When the banana sections soften and begin to brown, carefully add the rum.

Continue to cook the sauce until the rum is hot, then tip the pan slightly to ignite the rum, or ignite with a long match.

When the flames subside, lift the bananas out of the pan and place four pieces over each portion of ice cream.

SLOW COOKER GUMBO

BY TAMMILEE TILLISON • TAMMILEETIPS.COM

THE PERFECT COMBINATION OF SAUSAGE, CHICKEN AND SHRIMP WITH CAJUN SPICES, IT TAKES LESS THAN 30 MINUTES TO THROW THIS RECIPE TOGETHER AND PUT IN THE SLOW COOKER! INGREDIENTS 1 lb chicken breast cut into bite size pieces 1 lb smoked sausage kielbasa, farmers sausage, garlic sausage, etc 1 lb shrimp raw and shells removed 1 onion diced 1 green pepper diced 1 hot pepper (jalapeno, serrano, scotch bonnet, habanero, etc) (optional!)

3 stalks celery, diced 28 oz diced tomatoes 3 tsp garlic minced 2 cups chicken broth 1 tbsp cajun spice or more if you prefer 1 tsp thyme 1 tsp oregano 1 1/3 cup cooked rice

INSTRUCTIONS 1. Combine all ingredients in the slow cooker, except for the shrimp and the rice.

2. Cook on low for 6 – 7 hours, stirring occasionally 3. In last hour of cooking, salt the shrimp lightly, and then add them to the crockpot 4. In the last half hour of cooking, add the rice and stir.

5. Replace cover.

6. You want the rice just to warm through and take on some of the cooking flavors.

7. Serve with crusty bread, and enjoy!

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RED BEANS AND RICE

BY RACHAEL HUTCHINGS • LAFUJIMAMA.COM

Red beans and rice is a classic Louisiana Creole dish.

This is a lightened up version, perfect for Spring. Throw in some ham or sausage to make it a bit heartier.

INGREDIENTS 1 tablespoon olive oil 1 large red onion, chopped 1 green bell pepper, stem and seeds removed, finely diced 1 stalk celery, finely sliced 3 large cloves garlic, minced 2 teaspoons dried thyme 1 teaspoon dried oregano 1 large bay leaf 1 teaspoon fine grain sea salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper, to taste 2 (15-ounce) cans light red kidney beans, rinsed and drained 1 1/2 cups unsalted vegetable broth 1 tablespoon apple cider vinegar 2 teaspoons liquid smoke (optional) 4 cups warm, steamed white long grain rice 2 ripe avocados, peeled, pitted, and cut into chunks (optional) Fresh cilantro leaves, to garnish 1. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan or Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Saute the onion, bell pepper, and celery until tender, about 5 minutes. Add the garlic and continue to saute until it is fragrant, about 1 minute.

2. Stir in the thyme, oregano, bay leaf, salt, black pepper, and cayenne pepper. Next add the kidney beans, vegetable broth, and apple cider vinegar.

3. Increase the heat to high. Once the mixture comes to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover the saucepan, and let the mixture simmer for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

4. Ladle about 1 cup of the beans into a bowl and use a fork to mash them, then stir them back into the saucepan. (This will make the finished dish creamier.) Cover the saucepan again and let the mixture simmer for another 10 minutes, stirring once halfway through.

5. Remove the saucepan from the heat and let the beans sit for 5 minutes (with the lid still on the saucepan).

6. Stir in the liquid smoke (if using), then fold in the warm rice. Taste and add additional salt as needed. Serve topped with chunks of avocado and garnished with fresh cilantro leaves. Add some hot sauce (Crystal is a southern classic) if you want a bit more heat!

a n a i s i Lou

ROAD TRIP

BY KERYN MEANS • WALKINGONTRAVELS.COM AND JADE BROADUS • VAGABOND3.COM

MONROE

SHREVEPORT

EPPS

RUSTON

NORTH, SOUTH, EAST AND WEST - ALL ROADS LEAD TO SOMETHING SPECIAL WHEN YOU TAKE A ROAD TRIP THROUGH LOUISIANA.

NORTHERN LOUISIANA ROAD TRIP Small towns like Monroe and Ruston are seeing revitalization through the next generation of chefs. Cruise through Cypress fields, wild life preserves, arts districts, airline history and the stories of this former French colony in the less-visited northern part of the state. You will find a passionate people, who love their towns, and are happy to share it with you. Day trip from Monroe to one of the few UNESCO World Heritage sites in the tiny town of Epps. Here you will find Poverty Point National Monument, one of the earliest Native American settlements ever discovered. Head west to Shreveport for a collection of American and European art in the R. W. Norton Art Gallery along with 10,000 azaleas in bloom each spring.

LAFAYETTE

BATON ROUGE SOUTHERN LOUISIANA ROAD TRIP Down south you can explore the intoxicating mixture of Acadian, Cajun, Creole and Black African cultures and history as expansive as the Mississippi River. The cosmopolitan city of New Orleans invites visitors to dive deep into its spicy mixture of cuisine, culture, cocktails, bonhemie and jazz. The pure joy of the city's Mardi Gras celebrations provides a festive experience like none other.

NEW ORLEANS Stop in state capital Baton Rouge for a visit of the Old State Capital castle museum, and a tour of 'one of America's most haunted homes,' the Myrtles Plantation. Two-step to toe-tapping Zydeco music in a Lafayette dance hall, dine in the company of Blue Dogs, and glide past submerged cypress trees in the Atchafalaya Basin bayou in search of gators.

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YOUR GUIDE TO LOUISIANA PARKS

BY JOHN TILLISON • PARKRANGERJOHN.COM

Louisiana is home to five National Park Service sites. These sites include National Historical Parks, National Monument and a National Military Park.

Two of the easiest parks to visit are Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and New Orleans Jazz National Historical Park both located in the heart of New Orleans. Each site offers the opportunity to learn more about Louisiana culture and history.

CANE CREOLE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK Cane Creole National Historical Park is in NW Louisiana approximately 50 miles from Alexandria. The park offers the opportunity to tour two plantations from the 18th century. The plantations are located approximately 15 minutes apart.

Learn about historic Antebellum agriculture buildings as well as tobacco, cotton and indigo farming. The park sits within the Cane River National Heritage Area, which is affiliated with the National Park Service.

JEAN LAFITTE NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK AND PRESERVE Jean Lafitte NHP and Preserve has multiple sites that can be visited within and near New Orleans. The park offers a wide range of experiences including swamp tours, Acadian Culture, and the opportunity to learn more about the history of the French Quarter. Start your visit at the visitor center near Jackson Square and then take a paddlewheeler boat tour to the Chalmette Battlefield. This battlefield commemorates the 1815 battle of New Orleans when General Jackson's army defeated British Troops.

NEW ORLEANS JAZZ NATIONAL HISTORICAL PARK New Orleans Jazz NHP has a visitor center just down the street from Jackson Square and Café Du Monde. You can learn more about the history of jazz music in New Orleans. Park Rangers perform live jazz concerts at the visitor center and can also provide information on musical events within the city.

POVERTY POINT NATIONAL MONUMENT Poverty Point NM is a National Park Site as well as a World Heritage Site. The park is located 40 miles from Monroe, Louisiana. The park offers the opportunity to take a tram tour or walking tour of earthworks that were built around 1500BC. VICKSBURG NATIONAL MILITARY PARK Vicksburg NMP is in Louisiana and also west central Mississippi. The park offers a driving tour, visitor center and guided tours of the battlefield. There are over 1,300 monuments and markers throughout the battlefield that commemorate the battle that President Lincoln called the Key to the Confederate south during the civil war. One of the highlights is being able to tour the USS Cairo which sunk in the Yazoo River in 1862. This ironclad gunboat was recovered in 1964.

r e v o c s i D PLANTATION COUNTRY

BY CLAUDIA LAROYE • THETRAVELLINGMOM.CA

SITUATED ALONG THE WINDING MEANDER OF THE MISSISSIPPI RIVER, NEW ORLEANS PLANTATION COUNTRY IS 120 MILES OF MAGNIFICENT SOUTHERN LIVE OAKS, GREEN SUGAR CANE FIELDS AND STATELY PLANTATION HOMES. Visitors to this beautiful region just an hour outside New Orleans are treated to serious southern hospitality, culture and culinary experiences. We were also mindful that the history of the area and its many fine plantation houses lining the river was once rooted in the business of sugar cane and slavery.

Houmas House was known as the Sugar Palace for its wealth and the grandeur of the off-white plantation house. The ornate rooms of the manor house are decorated in period furniture, frescoes and murals that highlight the high life that owner John Burnside would have enjoyed.

It’s impossible to set foot in the region and not appreciate the impact of African culture and the sacrifices of the enslaved. The influences are in the food, art, architecture, language and folklore of Plantation Country.

The grounds were once planted with sugar cane, but now consist of extensive gardens with sprawling 500year old southern live oaks and a Japanese pagoda, pond and garden. Houmas House exists as a window into a lost world as seen in Gone with the Wind.

Each historic Plantation house in the region has its own unique story to tell of what life was like during the height of the antebellum south before the American Civil War.

Across the river, the Laura Plantation offers the perspective of a plantation house run by a series of strong Creole women. Being Creole represented a linguistic, religious and cultural identity based in a

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Louisiana birthright before the Purchase of 1803.

Creoles could be free, enslaved, white, west Africans, and Native American. But shared language and cultural integration did not mean equality.

The bright yellow and green of Laura Plantation indicates it was a working house, occupied during the sugar cane harvest. The house’s final family owner, Laura Locoul Gore was born as the Civil War began. She kept detailed journals that provided a glimpse into the family’s history and were published in a book after her death in 1963, when John F Kennedy was President.

Opened in 2015, the Whitney Plantation tells the powerful story of slavery from the slave perspective.

Thanks to the Federal government’s Writers Project of the 1930s which interviewed former slaves who’d been children during the Civil War, the stories and memories of slavery, along with the names of 100,000 former slaves, are noted in stark detail that is meant to educate current and future generations about the past.

The Whitney is the only museum in the United States focused on slavery. Through exhibits, sculptures and memorials, a tour of this plantation house and grounds provides valuable insight into the brutal life of the enslaved, and the machinery and people who kept the business of slavery in motion for so long.

Each historic Plantation house has its own unique story to tell of what life was like during the height of the antebellum south.

TWIST TRIPS

MEXICO Join us for an all-inclusive long weekend in Merida, Mexico, filled with rest, relaxation, exploration, and of course, food.

Learn More: TwistTravelMag.com/trips

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TRAVEL LEMONS THE REAL FACE OF FAMILY TRAVEL

BY MELISSA CONN • THEFAMILYVOYAGE.COM

It may sound like traveling full-time is like a permanent vacation, but in reality there’s almost as much juggling as you have to do at home, just with different balls. This is exactly where we found ourselves as we prepared to leave Buenos Aires for the remote city of Puerto Madryn in northern Patagonia. We had made all of our arrangements months in advance so didn’t think much about the logistics - only about the unique experience of visiting one of the local Magellanic penguin colonies!

The day before our flight, I realized we hadn’t gotten the specific address from our lodging host so I shot him a message. He wrote back “Sorry, I cancelled your reservation months ago. It’s my parents’ apartment and they’re out of the country with the keys.”

Generally speaking when you “drop a ball” in your life at home, it’s something like forgetting to arrange a babysitter. When you’re traveling full-time, dropping a ball can mean that your family has no place to sleep.

In our case, we were heading to a small, remote city during their peak season. We jumped online and found only one option that would accommodate our family, one with horrendous reviews. Still, I submitted a request and told the host we would be landing in four hours. The host wrote back and said that they would be at a family barbecue, but to come by and they’d take care of us.

When we arrived at Bahia Delfines, we were warmly greeted by Xenia and Santiago and immediately hit it off.

They invited us for a traditional asado one day and we took them out for pizza the next – it was like we were old friends and more than two years later, we're still in touch! Looking back, I can’t imagine how different our experience in Argentina would have been if everything had gone according to plan. We would have stayed alone in our apartment without ever feeling the true warmth of South American hospitality. The lemon of losing out on our intended apartment couldn’t have turned into sweeter lemonade!

Have a travel lemons tale? Email us at hello@twisttravelmag.com

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