Western Living - BC, May2016

WLSTYLE // title

A Stunning New Home Design in West Vancouver Spring Getaways: The Ultimate Gulf Island Travel Guide

WESTERN LIVING // MAY 2016

Fresh & Modern

PLUS The Secret to Perfect Patio Drinks

SEE OUR BATHROOMS ON

Beauty on th

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Modern, contemporary designs and quality European craftsmanship.

Merit Kitchens—an experience for life. Canadian-made, German-engineered.

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Sandy’s Furniture has been a proud retailer of Natuzzi’s Italian made products for more than 25 years.

We invite you to visit our Natuzzi Italia store inside Sandy’s on United Boulevard where you will enjoy our one of a kind shopping experience surrounded by the largest selection of Natuzzi Italia products in Canada.

Sandy’s Furniture Family Owned and Operated Since 1976

PLATEA is an armchair with a Sixties style. The external frame, with a rounded shape includes the soft back and seat cushion. Interesting features include the long conical feet in metal that support the structure. An armchair able to give style and character to your housing projects.

GORDON brings to mind the design of a Chinese lantern, reinterpreted in a contemporary style. The floor lamp, available in various dimensions, is ideal for a composition of decorative light sources, combining beauty and practicality. Both single and in a set, Gordon provides warmth and balance to any contemporary setting, thanks to the fabric used for the lampshade and the metal structure

CHOCOLAT is a contemporary table with an unusual geometrical shape. The use of precious materials, such as stone and marble, reflects the latest trends in the furnishing sector. The coffee-tables may be combined to create a larger table. All the surfaces proposed have been water-proofed and stain-proofed.

RIFLESSO rug with a worn but also particularly bright look.

The extraordinary brilliance which is a feature of modern design is obtained using the “Cut and Loop” technique, which requires looping and then uneven cutting of the threads. This makes Riflesso ideal for more classic settings.

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M AY 2 016 B R I T I S H C O LU M B I A // V O LU M E 4 6 // N U M B E R 4

STYLE 21 // One to Watch

Steven Pollock turns humble concrete into something beautiful.

22 // Shopping

Stunning blown-glass lights, EQ3’s designer collaboration and more new pieces we love.

22

24 // Openings

Your first look at new rooms, expansions and fresh locations across the West.

FOOD 47 // Bites

Learn to sear a steak like a pro and make a cornbread panzanella salad to go with it.

50 // The Summer

Drinking Playbook

Take a thoughtful approach to the summer tipple with help from some of the West’s best barkeeps.

60 SPRING FLING 30 // Poured Vision

Perched on a challenging site in West Vancouver, this concrete creation from McLeod Bovell is a revelation.

38 // The Great Experiment Todd Talbot, host of Love It or List It Vancouver, creates a master bathroom with an unconventional twist.

50 1 2 M A Y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

42 // Second Chances

A gorgeous bathroom reno helps a couple fall back in love with their home.

TRAVEL 57 // 48 Hours in

Cumberland

Old is new again in Vancouver Island’s most happening town.

60 // The Ultimate

Gulf Island Primer

These magical isles, happily existing in their own orbit, make the perfect weekend escape—one that includes hiking, kayaking and taking things seriously easy.

PLUS 66 // Trade Secrets

Here’s how a splash of colour is going to instantly upgrade your kitchen.

COVER: Martin Tessler; this page: McLeod house: Martin Tessler; Pender Island: Reuben Krabbe; cream soda: Page and Paper

30

MOON ISLAND

design by Gerd Couckhuyt

exclusively at For more beautiful finds for your smaller spaces

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WESTERN LIVING editorial editor-in-chief Anicka Quin art director Paul Roelofs food and travel editor Neal McLennan senior editor Stacey McLachlan associate art director Naomi MacDougall assistant art director Jenny Reed staff writer Julia Dilworth contributing editors Amanda Ross, Nicole Sjรถstedt, Barb Sligl, Jim Sutherland, Julie Van Rosendaal city editors Karen Ashbee (Calgary) Jyllian Park (Edmonton) Shelora Sheldan (Victoria) editorial interns Ellen Koehler, Sally Michael White art intern Ying Tang email mail@westernliving.ca

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THE ART OF FINE LIVING

5520 Minoru Blvd Richmond BC 604.273.0155 paramountfurniture.ca

WL // EDITOR’S NOTE

ANICK A QUIN, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ANICK A.QUIN@WESTERNLIVING.CA 1 8 M A Y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

Q& A This month we asked our contributors, now that the weather is warming up, what’s your favourite summer cocktail?

Lu s F y, P ‫ה‬r “Оe t ” 21 I’ll have the occasional cocktail, but my preferred summer beverage is an ice-cold beer. My Mount Pleasant neighbourhood has several outstanding breweries and they’re always creating tasty new options—this summer I’ll be looking for saisons, sours and a smooth German kölsch.

Ju a l rth, S ff W r “ y Is ” 60 When it’s done properly (i.e., without that Ghostbusters-green premix) a tart and salty lime margarita hits the spot every time. It’s got to be on the rocks (slush is for suckers), in a squat glass and with chunky salt on the rim.

Behind the Scenes Photographer Lucas Finlay gets a shot of designer Steven Pollock for our One to Watch this month (page 21) as he finishes up one of his pieces.

Pollock’s studio is in the original boiler room of the famed Parker Street Studios in Vancouver.

VISIT

FOLLOW US ON

Anicka Quin portrait: Carlo Ricci; styling by Luisa Rino, makeup by Melanie Neufeld; clothing courtesy Holt Renfrew. Photographed in home designed by Kelly Deck Design

“JUST WAIT.”

Once, while I was visiting the second home of a West Vancouverite in the south of France, the caretaker of the house told me how much she enjoyed watching the transformation of urbanite guests who arrive at the home.

Their first instinct was always to make a to-do list of everything they wanted to see, and to get her insider’s take on the best local spots to buzz over to. Her advice, she told me with a mischievous smile, was always, “Just wait.”

Because inevitably, she said, visitors let the spirit of the place sink in and stop the rush. To appreciate the view to the vineyards of Languedoc from a lounge chair with a glass of local sauvignon blanc, and to forget about the to-do list.

I got a small taste of that over a recent long weekend on Salt Spring. (Catch our ultimate guide to the Gulf Islands on page 60.)

My fi rst day was spent attempting to maximize my time there: exploring all the stores in Ganges, following the official Studio Tour map to hit the wool producers and cheese makers, and circumnavigating the island to make sure I’d seen it all. (And to taste as many things as I could: Café Talia makes a mean chocolate peanut butter bar; Barb’s Bakery an excellent cinnamon scroll.)

And while I loved all that touring (and joining the locals on a Saturday night at the movie theatre and the local pub), reflecting back, one of the highlights of the weekend was the hours I spent gazing out a picture window in my weekend home at the Stonehouse B&B, glass of extra special bitter from Salt Spring Island Ales in hand, watching the boats in Ganges Harbour. It’s the real gift a vacation brings: to stop my puttering and get my shoulders to drop a few inches.

As we head into the West’s warm season, I hope you’ll soon be finding your own special getaway (might I recommend Salt Spring?)

—a place where you can pair the excitement of exploration with time spent just sitting back and, in the spirit of “just wait,” letting the quiet moments do their work.

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STYLE

S H O P P I N G // T R E N D S // P E O P L E // S PA C E S // O P E N I N G S // I N T E L

ONE TO WATCH

Concrete Ideals

Steven Pollock, Woodstone Design, Vancouver

Lucas Finlay

It all started with a love of concrete.

“I’ve always been attracted to it, just walking through the city,” says Steven Pollock of Woodstone Design. “I like its mass and heaviness; it has a real presence.” When Pollock left behind a life in the global telecom industry 12 years ago, he decided to try turning that love into a new career, teaching himself the ins and outs of the medium.

Since launching his new career, he has built up his skill set, combining the industrial feel of concrete and steel with the natural lines of wood to create everything from large-scale fireplace installations to custom furniture. “It’s a frustrating material to work with,” he says, “but I embrace the little air bubbles and imperfections that come from it.” —Sally Michael White

Urban Influence See Pollock’s work at Kate Duncan’s Address show, May 5 to 8 in Vancouver in the Waterfall building.

westernliving.ca / M A Y

2016 21

WLSTYLE // SHOPPING

Pile On

A a’s Pi

There’s a hand-drawn vibe to the stripes that run every which way on this cozy highpile Birket rug ($199). Ikea, across the West, ikea.ca

Assembly Armchair

$329, available at EQ3, eq3.com

I love it when large companies use their heft to shine a spotlight on local talent. Winnipeg-based EQ3 has released their own capsule collection, Assembly, and the designers involved read like a who’s who of today’s most interesting makers. Take Matthew Kroeker: his armchair is an interpretation of the iconic Windsor chair, with a continuous steam-bent back and arm rail, streamlining the chair and improving the structure.

Light It Up

The only thing lovelier than a blown-glass Nostalgia pendant lamp ($720) hanging above your dining table is a cluster of them (mix the crystal, chrome, gold and rose gold options for an elegant, eclectic look).

Lightform, lightform.ca

For more of Anicka’s picks, visit westernliving.ca

NOTEWORTHY New in stores across the West Colour Story

It’s a slow oxidization process that gives the stunning triangular Lex Pott Transience mirrors (from $1,517) their unique colouring.

Inform, informinteriors .com

Balancing Act

These Palace Thai rice bowls ($36 for set of four) bring the ideal hit of rustic pattern and exotic colour into a sleek, modern kitchen. Williams-Sonoma, williams-sonoma.ca

Thrilling Throw

It’s lucky that the Hay Mega Knit blanket ($395) is so lightweight— the pretty pink palette of the Norwegian-inspired pattern makes it the ideal throw for spring.

Vancouver Special, vanspecial.com

2 2 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

D E D O N . G L O S T E R . J AN U S E T C I E . T U U C I . C A N E L I N E . B R OW N J O R D AN . K I NGSL E Y BAT E

VANCOUVER HAS A NEW HOME FOR OUTDOOR FURNITURE. Our new Showroom is now open at 3rd and Fir.

Outdoor Furniture Showroom: 1880 Fir Street Indoor Furniture Showroom: 1855 Fir Street Armoury District Vancouver 604.736.8822 Monday - Saturday 10 -5:30 pm broughaminteriors.com

WLSTYLE // SHOPPING

OPENINGS Hot new rooms we love

CALGARY Range Road Furnishings A pair of engineers embraces their artistic side through handcrafted furnishings with a rustic bent: think rugged, solidwood benches, custom barn-style doors and live-edge tables. rangeroad furnishings.com

Working It

Two-Sided

When the faux-leather topper is set flat side up, the wire Bend Switch ($650) makes for the perfect cocktail table; flip it over to transform the piece into a cushioned stool. Provide, providehome.com

O N E - Q U E S T I O N I N T E R V I E W WITH BRETT LAVENDER AND MARK GENEROUX

Proprietors, Range Road Furnishings

Chic Chair

The Apelle dining chair (from $660) puts the metal of the moment, rose gold, to good use as a frame for a sleek colouredleather seat. Resource Furniture, resource furniture.com

How does working with wood affect your designs?

Each one of our projects is a little different and has its own character; imperfections in the wood can become the highlight of a piece—the material inspires the design for sure. We use wood sourced from the West Coast, like Douglas fir, and when you’re working with something so raw and natural, you get surprised a little bit.

MORE NEW ROOMS

VICTORIA Thorn and Thistle In addition to beautiful flowers, find a wellcurated selection of giftables (Amelie Mancini linens, Woodlot soaps and Lux et Terra beeswax candles, to name a few) at the new location of this quaint floral shop. thornandthistle.ca

2 4 M A Y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

VICTORIA Trig Vintage Pop in often to see the constantly changing selection of mid-century modern furniture, quirky art pieces and great kitchenware on offer at this inviting Herald Street vintage haven. trigvintage.com

RICHMOND Jordans Home The flagship store (a new concept from the people behind Jordans Interiors) brings contemporary, casual pieces—cozy sofas and internationally sourced accessories— to Richmond’s home decor district. jordanshome.ca

VANCOUVER Hugues Chevalier The Parisian brand makes its Canadian debut, bringing a modern interpretation of Art Deco to a line of sophisticated furniture designs, including sleek leather sofas and smartly structured coffee tables. hugueschevalier.com

Modern living, rain or shine.

The Dune Sofa. View all 10 of our exclusive outdoor lounge and dining collections at crateandbarrel.com.

Shop our entire collection | Vancouver • Calgary • Edmonton • Mississauga •Toronto • Laval | 888.657.4108

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ROMANTIQUE

Pale pink becomes a power colour and takes center stage as one of two hues chosen by Pantone as Color of the Year. Large-scale blooms and botanicals bring nature inside. Grey reigns as a classic complement to lighter, chalkier hues. Metals, woods, glass, and ceramics bring textural interest and keep pastel rooms from becoming too cutesy.

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GLOBAL ARTISTRY

Inspired by travel and adventure, the trend is a modern take on global patterns, fabrics, and crafts. It’s all in the mix. Embroidery, caning, animal hides, even macramé, give a handcrafted, organic feel to accessories. Soft pastels contrast with deep blues and greys. Ethnic accents complete the look.

MASCULINE MÉLANGE

Black continues to be a strong colour preference for walls, windows, and metal accents. Vintage details add a timeless quality. Rustic woods contrast with classic shapes in furnishings. Leather, copper, wire, and natural elements give texture and shine throughout a room.

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HOMES I N T E R I O R S // A R C H I T E C T U R E // D E S I G N // L I V I N G

ROOMS WE LOVE

Simple Is Beautiful

Ema Peter

When homeowner Elana Cossever was renovating her bathroom, the budget was tight, so she turned a few inexpensive finishes into a beautiful thing. The flooring is actually plywood cut into boards; the subway tile was discovered at an outlet in Vancouver. The Brizo matteblack faucets are a splurge, but the pipe and brackets underneath are from Home Depot and spray-painted to match. And that funky curtain rod is made from copper piping and bent to fit. “Our architect always said restraints lead to good design,” Cossever says. “The bathroom design was a result of frugality, but it gives the house a really nice feel.”

westernliving.ca / M A Y

2016 29

POURED VISION

WL HOMES

Perched on a challenging site in West Vancouver, this concrete creation from design team McLeod Bovell is a revelation. by barb sligl // photographs by martin tessler // styling by nicole sjÖstedt

Warm Thoughts The designers at McLeod Bovell looked to the south for inspiration in achieving this home’s raw-yetcrafted aesthetic. “Its feel is derived more from South America or places where exposed concrete is the go-to material for standard construction,” says designer Lisa Bovell.

westernliving.ca / m a y

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Grand Gestures Designer Matt McLeod describes the interior as “cave-like, but not constricting” (opposite, top). The home’s exterior follows the angle of the site line, winging out to act as a blinder that creates privacy (opposite, bottom left). Two major architectural pieces of metalwork, the folded stairs and fireplace-cumstorage unit, ground

I

the living room in dark charcoal (opposite, bottom right). Board-formed concrete adds pattern and texture, and “makes the concrete material less precious,” says McLeod (middle). Accoya natural wood cladding is used alongside the concrete at the front entrance and on the oversized pivot door, which is more quietly finished inside (top and bottom).

t’s not easy to describe the architectural vision of this concrete house on a rocky outcrop sandwiched between train tracks, tightknit neighbours and West Vancouver’s coastline-tracing Marine Drive.

Design duo Matt McLeod and Lisa Bovell of McLeod Bovell Modern Houses switched between fluidity, plasticity, malleability and even volumetric design to try capture their process of space-making.

Unlike anything surrounding it, this home’s irregular shape and atypical residential building materials are more akin to modern-day South American projects that stem from their surroundings to showcase concrete’s versatility. Think minimalist character, structural order and harmonious coexistence with the natural environment—as if sculpted from it.

Winners of Western Living’s 2014 Designers of the Year Arthur Erickson Memorial Award, the pair has worked together for eight years now, establishing a particular oeuvre. Having worked extensively on homes with challenging sites inherent to the steep and rocky terrain of West Vancouver, their go-to has become concrete. Not because it’s easy or cost-effective (it’s not), but because of its pliability.

“It’s solid, yet soft,” Bovell says.

And that characteristic resolves limitations of topography. Here, despite being buried at one end and exposed at the other, this splitlevel building is carefully choreographed to feel holistic. Each elevation is connected with just a half-level of stairs. From the oversized

Modern Beauty Concrete is the main material inside and out (this page and opposite, top left). “We’re always trying to limit the palettes in these houses, trying to get them down to their essentials,” says McLeod.

The minimal kitchen hides appliances within custom cabinetry and an expanse of Blizzard Caesarstone

(opposite, bottom left).

But there are plenty of organic moments, too.

“This house feels really natural,” says McLeod, with a material palette of raw concrete, leather, steel and wood, like this live-edge dining table (opposite, right). “These little moments where the house doesn’t have to be perfect or pristine.”

pivot door at the entrance, you can see right through to the back deck— and the ocean. Angled planes and retaining walls usher you into the space and continue front to back to a dramatic point that reaches out to that view and creates a privacy screen.

The transition between exterior and interior is seamless. Raw concrete is left exposed, its functional construction outside becoming decorative texture inside. The linear pattern of the board-form concrete (the boards’ imprint leaves a wood-grain texture in the material) is juxtaposed with a similarly textured wood siding, sometimes following on the horizontal but also breaking into vertical. “We use the direction of cladding to extend or break down the reading of floor levels,” says McLeod.

Concrete extensions and protrusions create privacy and sheltered

spaces, as if hoods or blinders. Neighbours disappear and the view is spectacularly framed through the back of the house, which seems to project into the ocean. Under a concrete canopy, suspended 40 feet above the property’s base, the deck and adjacent plunge pool are both viewing platform and meditative space—bold and quietly poetic. “It’s just you and that horizon line,” says McLeod. He compares it to a cave.

“There’s a feeling of solidity and containment, yet also an immediate connection to the outdoors.” Bovell adds, “When you’re inside the house, it feels like it’s a space that’s been hollowed out for you.”

Within this carved-out interior, the architects guided the design to continue the raw yet warm and crafted vibe of concrete, which “forms a kind of skeleton for the house,” says Bovell. Combined with other natural materials—wood, steel, leather pulls on millwork—the goal westernliving.ca / m a y

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Indoors and Out Despite very-tight adjacencies, the home seems isolated and exposed with immediate and unobstructed views.

And Burrard Inlet’s deep anchorage means you can actually hear people talking on the freighter ships just outside (top and bottom left). The master bath’s porcelain tile reiterates the look of concrete, while oak flooring is used in its cabinetry and Blizzard Caesarstone in its countertop (bottom right).

was to “reduce the bandwidth and colour of material,” says McLeod, and “have everything exist in a quiet zone.”

It’s a limited palette, monochromatic and minimal. In the kitchen, matte-white cabinetry hides appliances. A live-edge plank dining table reiterates the texture of unfinished concrete. Light wide-plank oak flooring mimics the exterior cladding and is even continued up a wall in the living room for continuity. The dark-charcoal architectural metalwork of a custom-built fireplace and storage unit is repeated in a floating folded staircase. Pale porcelain tile with a veined effect covers another wall in the main living space, alongside walls of concrete, oak 3 6 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

and glass. The master bath’s floors and walls are wrapped in the same porcelain tiles, and both the Caesarstone counter and white oak in the millwork are the same materials used in the kitchen.

Everything fits and belongs. There are no separate pieces. In both palette and design, it’s an interconnected whole. Like intricate origami, it’s as if a series of folded planes create one volume or geometric form: this house. Or sculpture. “Using concrete as a critical tool for expression allows you to think about a building as being solid or carved, rather than being put together from a series of pieces,” says Bovell. It’s poured vision.

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WLSTYLE HOMES// // title BATHROOMS Don’t skimp on the lighting. “You can’t have too much lighting in a bathroom.” The Love It or List It Vancouver host ran the gamut of options from sizable sconces, pot lights and under-cabinet lighting, to a night light (for his two young kids) and a window to let in natural light.

He also recommends putting lights on dimmers to create different moods.

Pick all hard finishes before you start. “It’s easy to jump in and make it up as you go along, but it will save time and money to preplan,” says Todd Talbot.

by JULIA DILWORTH // photographs by JANIS NICOLAY

THE GREAT Todd Talbot, the host of Love It or List It Vancouver, creates a master bathroom in Lions Bay with an unconventional twist.

SEE SOURCES

Get creative with storage. A double bank structure set eight inches off the wall offers storage cabinets outside the shower and a practical shelf for bath products on the inside.

Add a natural element.

Todd Talbot (seen here) incorporated wooden countertops (Chinese elm reclaimed from a Vancouver General Hospital expansion) to add a relaxed feel to his West Coast modern bathroom.

EXPERIMENT See more of our favourite bathrooms at westernliving.ca

F

or years, the master bathroom in Todd Talbot’s Lions Bay home was a bit of a secret.

The Love It or List It Vancouver star and his wife moved in mid-renovation with a baby, and then life—long days shooting a hit TV show, then another baby—put renovations on hold.

With half the house in progress, the family lived in the other half, and lower-priority projects, like the couple’s dream master bath, were pushed down the to-do list. “I just basically hung a door and then we lived without that room for like…five years,” laughs Talbot. “No one could tell because I put a door on—so we’d just leave that door closed.”

But the hobby renovator always had a design in mind, and when his schedule opened up again he enlisted Vancouver designer Jamie Banfield to help strategize the muchneeded storage for his 72-square-foot master bath. Where Talbot had envisioned a flat back wall, Banfield suggested stealing eight inches for two banks of shallow cupboards.

This meant either stopping the storage at the shower, or running it through the shower along the whole wall. “We decided to take the more complicated version,” says Talbot.

Getting the shower glass cut perfectly flush to the cabinet banks and back tile, sealing the wood so it wouldn’t warp or get mouldy—they were both design challenges. But they paled in comparison to one grand experiment: convention dictates stone is for countertops and wood is for door fronts, but the duo did the opposite.

The extra weight from cabinets and a vanity in Caesarstone meant pieces had to be milled so thin that pulling out drawers wouldn’t break the hinges. Each press-and-pop door in the cabinet banks needed three hinges each just to carry the weight. “It was a challenge,” says Talbot. “Jamie, the guys at Colonial Cabinets and I, we just made it up as we went along.”

In the end, Talbot’s unique West Coast modern bathroom gave him everything he wanted: heated floors (in and out of a transitionless shower), industrial-chic touches (Talbot now has the same Waterworks faucet as Kanye West) and a window that lets those in the shower discreetly watch the ocean. “It’s a little high for my wife,” reveals Talbot with a laugh, “because I made it just for me.”

4 0 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

Design the bathroom to suit your wish list.

Talbot hated how you have to get wet to turn on the shower head, so he put a set of extra water controls where you enter, just out of spray range.

“I wanted to be able to stand in the shower and look out at the ocean while I was having a shower. Basically, the whole bathroom was built around that idea.”

Leave plumbing in its existing location to keep costs down. Talbot says that in small spaces it’s likely fixtures are already in the best spot: “Don’t change them for the sake of changing them.”

If it’s possible to add or update the window in the bathroom, do it. This will make your window more energy efficient and easier to use, and “it can be a focal point of the design,” says Talbot.

See SourceS

WLHOMES // BATHROOMS

Elevate the vanity.

Reihani had this leggy vanity custom-made to feel like a piece of furniture—including open shelving at its base to enhance the look. In a small space, an elevated vanity keeps the piece from feeling too heavy.

Designer Negar Reihani helps a couple fall back in love with their home, thanks to this gorgeous bathroom reno.

SECOND CHANCES

by SUSAN BRYANT // photographs by COLIN PERRY

4 2 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

See SourceS

Make room for two.

Instead of two individual his-and-hers sinks, Reihani went for one large—and dramatic—sink on the vanity. “Because it’s not a huge bathroom, a large sink can accommodate two people with much cleaner lines,” she says.

T

he young couple who owns this home in West Vancouver weren’t convinced they were going to stay in it. With a toddler and a newborn rounding out their family, they looked at the home’s ’80s fi xtures and vintage stylings and felt it didn’t fit with their modern outlook.

But a burst pipe in the master bathroom was the impetus to take on a reno of the space—and then they’d see how they felt about staying.

Designer Negar Reihani of Space Harmony was tasked with creating a space that would be worth staying in. The room itself wasn’t large, and the homeowners weren’t up for borrowing square feet from the nearby bedroom—but they did want to make sure that, with a couple of young children, they’d have lots of storage in the bathroom. “Being a young and modern couple, they wanted a cleaner, fresh look to reflect their style,” says Reihani. “At the same time, because it was a West Vancouver home, we wanted to keep a little of that classic feel to it in case they wanted to sell down the road—to still appeal to a more mature buyer.”

S E E See S O Umore R C E S of Reihani’s work (including a great powder room) at westernliving.ca

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Make mirrors work for you. This is a small bathroom, but it feels bright and airy thanks to the mirrored panels on the cabinet doors.

Use a pocket door when space is tight. Eliminating a swing door in this room means you won’t lose precious square footage to the door—but you’ll still get the privacy needed.

And so while the update didn’t require any shifts in plumbing, Reihani did remove the bathtub, and closed over the glass-block wall that was behind it. In its place, Reihani installed full-height cabinetry behind several mirrored doors, with plenty of pot lights throughout—so they wouldn’t miss any of the natural light that had filtered through those blocks.

A custom-made vanity in pale rift-cut oak is a perfect fit with the statuarietto marble tile that lines the walls and continues into the shower—paired with an elegant chevron pattern of the same tile on the floor and in the shampoo niche. A round mirror above the vanity provides a softer, more classic contrast to the sharper lines of the modern wall-mounted faucets.

And as far as that should-we-stay-orshould-we-go question? Post renovation, they’re definitely staying—and have contracted Reihani to tackle the rest of the home.

4 4 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

Don’t forget about the shampoo. The floor-toceiling tile is gorgeous in this shower space— but the inset niche for shampoo (with a pretty contrasting tile pattern) makes it practical, too.

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FOOD

R E S T A U R A N T S // E X P E R T A D V I C E // E N T E R T A I N I N G // W I N E // R E C I P E S

Lick Your Plate

Ryan Szulc

Sisters Julie Albert and Lisa Gnat have perfected a playful approach to great cooking. Like Julie’s take on this salad: “Lisa hates when I speak in accents, but I simply can’t resist getting all Scarlett O’Hara breathy about cornbread panzanella salad, a Southern spin on the classic Italian salad. I do declare that this citrus-dressed salad, crammed with homemade cornbread croutons, crunchy sweet peppers, sautéed fresh corn and creamy avocado, is a marvelous meal in a bowl. As God is my witness, you’ll never be hungry again…”

Find the recipe on page 49.

Southern Exposure Simple ingredients meet imaginative preparations in the new Lick Your Plate cookbook.

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WLFOOD // BITES GADGETS

C H EF ’S T I P

Cold Comfort

BITES

What we’re eating and drinking

If you don’t know the difference between iced coffee and cold brew, it’s time to set you straight. The former is a bitter mess that’s essentially very strong, hot coffee, cooled down on ice.

The latter is a smooth, almost creamy pleasure that’s the perfect summer drink. The key to cold brew is a long steep—12 to 24 hours—with freshly ground coffee beans with a very coarse grind. The good news is hardware, like the Mizudashi from Hario ($28) is ultra-affordable, which means you can splurge on a solid burr grinder like the Dose Control from Breville ($170). Pair them together and you’re in for less than many a drip coffee machine, and you’re on your way to gloriously smooth cold brew nirvana. hario-canada.ca; breville.ca

Searing a Steak 101

NICO SCHUERMANS, CHAMBAR BACKGROUND: Most people tend to sear their steaks by pouring oil directly into the pan they’re using and then cooking the steak directly on top. This technique usually results in a burned piece of steak.

NICO’S TIP: Brush oil onto both sides of the steak and season with some salt and pepper. Let sit for a couple of minutes before placing it in the hot pan. This will let the sugars in the meat caramelize (sear) better while cooking and lessen the chance of any kind of burning. Flavour is also brought out very well with this technique.

For other chef’s tips, youtube.com/ westernlivingCA

O P EN I N G S

Fanny Bay Oyster Bar

Little Henry

762 CAMBIE ST., VANCOUVER

1209 1ST ST. SW, CALGARY

The legendary purveyor of the West Coast’s most famous oysters is landing in Vancouver’s stadium district with a 50-seat room at Cambie and Robson. While there will be a 16-seat classic oyster bar, there will also be a full menu—with an emphasis on seafood— for those sad folks who aren’t interested in crafting an entire meal around bivalves. fannybayoysters.com

Calgary’s going gaga for the terrifically named new restaurant, Ten Foot Henry (inspired by a giant wooden cartoon character that’s a local legend), and now those who don’t have time to sit down for the full experience can saddle up to the just-opened Little Henry, an attached sandwich and coffee bar with food to go from its own takeout window. tenfoothenry.com

4 8 M A Y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

RECIPE

Cornbread Panzanella Salad SERVES 6–8 | PREP 20 MINUTES COOK 45 MINUTES SALAD 1 tbsp butter 3 ears fresh corn, kernels removed Ÿ tsp paprika Ÿ tsp chili powder Ÿ tsp kosher salt Ÿ tsp freshly ground black pepper 8 cups chopped romaine lettuce 1 red bell pepper, chopped 1 yellow pepper, chopped 1 large, ripe avocado, chopped Ÿ cup chopped fresh basil Lime dressing (see recipe) Cornbread croutons (see recipe) 1 large jalapeùo pepper, seeds removed, chopped, for garnish (optional) For the salad, in a medium skillet, melt butter over high heat. Add corn kernels, paprika, chili powder, salt and pepper. Cook 2 to 3 minutes until corn is golden. Remove from heat and cool. Place lettuce in a large serving bowl. Add red and yellow peppers, avocado, basil, sautÊed corn and cornbread croutons. Gently toss with dressing to combine. Garnish with chopped jalapeùos. Serve immediately.

CORNBREAD CROUTONS 1 cup flour 1 cup yellow cornmeal Ÿ cup sugar 1 tbsp baking powder ½ tsp kosher salt

N l McL n N l McL n

Ÿ tsp cayenne pepper 1 cup buttermilk Ÿ cup melted butter Ÿ cup honey 2 eggs Preheat oven to 400°F. Line an 8-inch-square baking pan with parchment paper and coat lightly with nonstick cooking spray. In a large bowl, combine flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, salt and cayenne pepper. In a medium bowl, whisk buttermilk, melted butter, honey and eggs until combined. Pour wet ingredients into flour mixture and gently mix together (do not overmix). Pour batter into prepared pan and bake for 18 to 20 minutes, until edges are golden and a toothpick inserted into the centre comes out clean.

Remove from oven and let cool.

Once cornbread has cooled, lower oven temperature to 350°F and line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Cut cornbread into 1-inch cubes and place on parchment paper. Bake for 10 minutes, flip cubes and continue baking for 10 minutes more. Remove from oven and let the croutons cool completely before using.

Excerpted from Lick Your Plate.

Copyright Š 2016 by Julie Albert and Lisa Gnat. Published by Appetite by Random House, a division of Penguin Random House. Reproduced by arrangement with the publisher.

All rights reserved.

LIME DRESSING Âź cup fresh lime juice Âź cup olive oil 2 tbsp vegetable oil 2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp honey Âź tsp kosher salt Âź tsp freshly ground black pepper Place lime juice, olive oil, vegetable oil, parsley, honey, salt and pepper in a container with a lid.

Shake well to combine.

N l’s W e Pi

A Drop in the Bucket OK ANAGAN CRUSH PAD NARRATIVE RED 2014 $20

I know we don’t know each other, but I’m here to tell you that your red wine is too warm. And while technically your kitchen at 5:45 on a sunny May day is “room temperature,� it’s not the room temperature that’s specified for serving red wine. That’s more like a cool, windowless room in your basement. (Think any room in your house where you’d be uncomfortable in shorts—that’s the room for room temperature.)

But on top of this, there are some red wines—gamay, bardolino, beaujolais, basic pinot noir, zweigelt—that actually lend themselves to an even colder presentation, especially in the summer months. As in dunk-them-in-an-ice-bath colder. These wines’ main traits—light and fruity—can turn to thin, sloppy and unfocused when served too warm. The key here is selection: a bottle like OCP’s Narrative Narrative, which is a juicy blend of gamay and syrah with very light tannins, takes the cool like Steve McQueen, whereas a more structured take on gamay (Blue Mountain or Haywire, for example, where the nose and subtlety are more important) should stick with the aforementioned room temperature. Fire up the ice buckets!

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WLFOOD // SUMMER DRINKING

The

SUMMER

5 0 M A Y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

DRINKING PLAYBOOK Each day is longer than the last. The sun is your alarm clock each morning. Short sleeves have made a triumphant return. If all that’s not cause for a toast, we don’t know what is. But this season, let’s aim higher than a cooler full of Bud: take a thoughtful approach to the summer tipple with help from some of the West’s best barkeeps. drinks and recipes by JULIE VAN ROSENDAAL, SHAUN LAYTON AND CALEDONIA WRIGHT photographs by PAGE AND PAPER

Rhubarb Collins When brilliant pink rhubarb is in season, this recipe is a perfect use for those sweet-tart stalks that take over your backyard.

Mix it up by the pitcher or keep rhubarb syrup in your fridge and make drinks to order.

1 oz rhubarb syrup (see recipe) 1 oz gin or vodka Lemon wedges Soda water or Prosecco

Pour 1 oz of syrup and 1 oz of gin or vodka over ice into an oldfashioned glass. Squeeze over a wedge of lemon and top with soda water or Prosecco.

RHUBARB SYRUP 4 cups chopped rhubarb 1 cup water ½ cup sugar, or to taste In a medium saucepan, bring rhubarb, water and sugar to a

simmer and cook until fruit is very soft. Taste and add more sugar if needed—it should be fairly tart.

Set a fine strainer over a bowl, pour in the rhubarb mixture and let sit so that as much syrup drains as possible. Store syrup in fridge for up to 2 months. (The leftover stewed fruit is also delicious with yogurt and granola or in smoothies.)

—Julie Van Rosendaal

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WLFOOD // SUMMER DRINKING

A PLACE WHERE GIN IS KING (HINT: IT’S NOT ENGLAND) The gin culture in Spain, and Barcelona in particular, is incredible. Every cocktail bar I went to had a list of G&Ts sometimes 20 deep, with different combinations of gin, tonic and garnish. These were all carefully paired and made with precision and pride. Yes, it sounds simple, but putting together the right combinations isn’t always that easy. Also, patrons seemed to love it and not feel intimidated by it. Often I see cocktails that are so complex, where the bartenders need to talk about them and themselves—they lose why the guest is there: for the experience and a tasty drink!—Shaun Layton

Catalan

Simon’s G&T

BARTENDER SHAUN LAYTON was already a bartending legend (and a WL Foodie of the Year) before he took off for an extended drinking tour of Europe last year. He returned to create and open the bar at Vancouver’s Juniper with the singular goal of resurrecting the once proud G&T from the rubbish bin. No more throwing flat tonic and well gin haphazardly together and calling it a drink—the cocktail’s nobility and versatility have been reborn.

1½ oz Fords gin 1 bottle Fentimans tonic ½ oz Noilly Prat vermouth Lemon peel for garnish Picholine olives, for garnish Build cocktail over ice in a gin and tonic glass (like the one pictured here—a wineglass will do in a pinch).

Add 1 long, skinny slice of lemon peel and 2 picholine olives.

1½ oz Defender Island gin 1 bottle tonic (Fever-Tree Mediterranean) Thyme, for garnish Grapefruit, for garnish Build cocktail over ice and garnish with a sprig of thyme and a slice of grapefruit.

YOUR MIX IS AS IMPORTANT AS YOUR SPIR IT Right now at Juniper we have nine different tonics. The ones most readily available in the West are Fentimans and the line from Fever-Tree, and there are more coming. I love the Mediterranean tonic from Fever-Tree for its mix of floral notes and citrus.

I also love Indi and Co. tonic from Spain for its beautiful Seville orange notes. Fentimans is the “jack of all trades� tonic that goes well with many combos.

... BUT YOUR SPIR IT IS STILL PR ETTY IMPORTANT There are so many gins I love! The great thing about G&Ts is that you can make most gins drinkable with the right accompaniments. Not all gins are drinkable neat or in a classic martini, but a G&T is different. My favourite gins for G&Ts right now are Defender Island (Naramata), Tanqueray Rangpur (England), Fords (U.S.), Gin Mare (Spain) and Long Table Cucumber (Vancouver).

Brit G&T 2 oz Long Table Cucumber gin 3 cracks black pepper 2 drops cucumber bitters (like those made by Bitter Truth) 1 bottle tonic (Fever-Tree Light) Cucumber, for garnish Build cocktail over ice and garnish with four cucumber slices.

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WLFOOD // summer drinking

SIP, SNACK, REPEAT Let’s face it—no one ever wants to move from the patio to a stuffy dining room on a warm summer evening. So make like the Spaniards and ditch the four-course dinner while letting the evening progress with a series of share plates that approximate the dinner courses. You’ll keep the vibe going strong while making sure there’s still some sustenance going on.

Italian Cream Soda With just two ingredients—carbonated water and flavoured simple syrup— it’s easy to keep the makings of Italian sodas on hand for custom-mixed drinks, boozy or not. Craft sodas are all the rage these days, and it’s a breeze to create any flavour you like.

A splash of booze makes it a simple cocktail, and a splash of cream gives it an Italian slant.

Italian Cream Soda

6 to 8 oz sparkling water or club soda 1 to 2 oz flavoured simple syrup (see recipe) 1 oz vodka (optional) 1 oz half and half cream (optional) Fill a tall glass half full with ice. Fill about ⅔ with sparkling water. Pour in syrup to taste, then float cream (and/or vodka) on top. Stir when you’re ready to drink.

Flavoured Simple Syrup Combine equal parts sugar and water in a small saucepan over medium heat.

Bring to a simmer, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add ingredients such as sliced fresh ginger; strips of lemon, lime or orange zest; rhubarb; torn fresh herbs such as basil or mint; loose-leaf tea; cinnamon sticks, star anise or vanilla bean. Let the syrup cool and steep for a few hours, then strain and store in the fridge for up to 6 months.

—J.V.R.

The Saigon Skål Club A refreshing union between savoury Swedish-style aquavit and Vietnamese cuisine.

7 to 8 Thai basil leaves 2 oz Long Table Långbord Akvavit 1 oz Giffard Ginger of the Indies liqueur Sriracha sauce ¼ oz rice wine vinegar ¼ oz fresh lime juice Club soda Cucumber, for garnish Muddle 5 or 6 leaves of Thai basil in a mixing glass. Add aquavit, ginger liqueur, rice vinegar and a dash or two of sriracha, then add ice and stir. Strain into a highball glass with fresh ice. Top with club soda and garnish with more Thai basil leaves and a cucumber twist.

— Caledonia Wright, Veneto Tapa Lounge, Victoria

5 4 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

The Saigon Skål Club

recipes by julie van rosendaal

Grilled Asparagus with Queso Fresco and Prosciutto Fresh asparagus bound with cheese and prosciutto can be assembled ahead of time; throw them on the grill to shrink-wrap the melty cheese to the asparagus and serve warm.

1 bunch thick asparagus 1 cup queso fresco (such as Albertamade Fresk-O semi-firm cheese) 200 grams thinly sliced prosciutto Balsamic syrup, for serving (optional) Preheat grill to medium-high. Snap tough ends of asparagus off where they naturally break. Cut queso fresco into ¼- to ⅓-inch-thick slices and place one piece up against each asparagus spear; wrap a single (or half) slice of prosciutto around it to hold it on, like a splint.

Grill for 3 to 4 minutes, turning as necessary, until asparagus is charred, prosciutto is crisp on the edges and shrinks tighter around the cheese and asparagus, and cheese is oozing a bit out each end. Serve immediately—if you like, drizzled with balsamic reduction. Serves 8.

Balsamic Rosemary Pecans Sweetly spiced pecans are irresistible for poolside nibbling and delicious chopped and sprinkled over a salad.

Lemon and Garlic Marinated Shrimp 1 lb raw shrimp, tails on ¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil Juice of 1 lemon ¼ cup chopped fresh basil 2 garlic cloves, crushed Squirt of sriracha or pinch of red chili flakes In a large bowl or resealable plastic bag, combine all ingredients, tossing well to coat. Cover (or seal) and refrigerate overnight.

When ready to cook, preheat grill to medium-high and soak about 10 bamboo skewers in water for at least 10 minutes. Thread shrimp onto skewers and grill for 2 to 3 minutes per side, just until shrimp turn opaque. Serve warm, at room temperature or cold. (Alternatively, cook them in a large skillet over medium-high heat, tossing with tongs just until cooked through.)

Remember to serve shrimp with a small empty dish for the tails. Serves 8.

2 cups pecan halves ¼ cup butter, melted 1 tbsp chopped fresh rosemary 1 tbsp packed brown sugar 1 tbsp balsamic vinegar ½ tsp cumin ½ tsp salt ¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper 2 drops hot sauce Preheat oven to 300°F. Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl and stir well. Spread out on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until pale golden and fragrant.

Serves 8.

For another great cocktail hour recipe—Perfect Avocado Toast— visit our WL Recipe Finder at westernliving.ca

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Mayne Island

Closer than you think.

mayneislandchamber.ca

Model suite now open. Come visit today.

Located in the heart of Edgemont Village, Edgemont Senior Living will open in early 2017. We will provide a range of all-inclusive living options and flexible services to meet the unique needs of our residents.

Visit us anytime.

Our community offers three distinct neighbourhoods under one roof:

Independent Living

Assisted Living

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Our Presentation Centre is open 7 days a week!

Presentation Centre 3142 Highland Blvd North Vancouver, BC 604-929-6361 edgemontseniorliving.ca

Design is a trademark of BayBridge Seniors Housing Inc. ENJOY LIFE. LET US DO THE REST. is a trademark of BayBridge Seniors Housing Inc. TM

W Queens Rd

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TRAVEL

T H E W E S T // W O R L D W I D E // W E E K E N D G E T AWA Y S // N E I G H B O U R H O O D S // R O A D T R I P S 48 HOURS IN CUMBERLAND

Cumberland Rising

Old is new in Vancouver Island’s happening town

Sara Kempner/CumberlandForest.com

Few B.C. towns are trading on an endemically colourful history and heritage character the way Cumberland currently is—almost to the point where the name “Cumberland” has become a brand. Swap the bike rack-fitted trucks and cars for horse-drawn carriages and the concrete sidewalks for boardwalks, and Dunsmuir Avenue could be a turnkey set for a spaghetti western with its century-old brick and wood buildings.

Or, if you happen to be in Cumberland for the annual Empire Days celebration and crowning of the May Queen, a tradition since 1919, it might feel more like wacky David Lynch dystopia.

Cumberland was founded on the coal mines, but today it’s homegrown businesses like Cumberland Crate Company, Cumberland Brewing Company, Village Muse Handmade, Dodge City Cycles and Seeds Food Market that symbolize the village’s evolution from neglected stepchild of the Comox Valley to one of West Coast B.C.’s hippest

Back Country Two-wheeled transport and four-legged friends are both big in today’s Cumberland.

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WLTRAVEL // 48 hours in cumberland

friday Scores of indie bands have graced the stage at the historic Waverley Hotel, and though the sightlines are awkward and the dance floor constricted by a century-old interior design that didn’t have rock and roll in mind, this room routinely generates a crowd energy that puts it on the bucket list of many performers.

Before the room heats up, nosh on a Further Burger—a ground turkey patty with bacon jam and garlic aioli on a pretzel bun. Local bassist and promoter Vig Schulman, through his company Cumberland Village Works, is largely responsible for putting Cumberland on the live music map, and he’s also the energy behind annual festivals like Atmosphere Gathering, an electronic and DJ-focused family-friendly event held at Village Park in mid-August.

saturday The simple cure for a foggy Waverley Hotel head is a pedal or hike in the forest. Cumberland is fast becoming a mountain biking destination to reckon with, attracting aficionados from the Lower Mainland and beyond, thanks to an ever-expanding network of trails that starts and finishes a few pedal strokes 5 8 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

away from the cafés and pubs on Dunsmuir Avenue. And as for hiking, if you know where to look, a walk through the forest is like a stroll through history, with old narrow-gauge rail grades, mine shafts and scraps of machinery left over from the coal-mining days.

Cumberland’s accommodation options are much more limited than the mountain bike trail selection, so plan ahead if you want to stay in the village. The best bet is Stansbury’s Guest House, tucked off the main drag on 2nd Street, offering two spacious suites with fully equipped kitchens and a cozy one-bedroom suite for those who prefer to dine in. In keeping with Cumberland’s twowheeled spirit, Stansbury’s also provides a bike-washing facility.

sunday These days in Cumberland, all trails lead to a frosty ale. The village was once honoured

by Labatt’s for being the “Luckiest Town in Canada”—that is, for consuming more Lucky Lager per capita than any other community.

In the context of today’s diverse ecosystem of craft breweries, it seems like a dubious distinction, but it nonetheless reflects Cumberland’s working-class roots. The village’s soft spot for suds recently found a new dimension with the opening of the Cumberland Brewing Company on Dunsmuir Avenue, with a sunny outdoor deck where you can sample

a slowly rotating selection of six different brews, among them an extra-special bitter, oatmeal stout and Cascadian dark ale.

Cumberland locals head to Comox Lake to boat, swim and rock climb on the spectacular basalt cliffs known as Devil’s Ladder that soar from the water. On the way to the lake, stop for a peaceful walk through Coal Creek Historic Park. Today, birds, bears and other wildlife are at home here, but until the 1930s it was home to a bustling Chinatown, at one time the largest rural population of Chinese people in North America. Interpretive signs will help fill in these now obscure pages of history, indicating the former locations of the Sun On Wo General Store, Wah Sang Bakery and other architectural ghosts from the past.

It’s Happening The hip Cumberland Brewing Co. (top left), the modern Stansbury’s Guest House (top right) and custom wooden boxes that Archie Pateman hand-assembles in his back alley workshop (bottom) are all part of the new, very eclectic Cumberland.

Cumberland Brewing Co.: Alan Brown; Stansbury’s: Karley Bracey; Cumberland Crates: Melanie McKay

little communities, overflowing with lifestyle pilgrims attracted by a bounty of outdoor opportunities and a thriving arts scene.

B y A n d r e w F i n d l Ay

Your Order is Our Pleasure It may surprise you to hear that at Tapestry Retirement Communities, multiple dining options are the norm.

Whether you dine in our restaurant or pub, our Chef takes great pride in preparing fresh, delicious, and creative dishes every day. In fact, he is pretty passionate about it!

Retirement lifestyle at Tapestry puts the control in your hands. Order from our menu, choose from daily features, or work with our Chef on a custom menu for your birthday luncheon.

Whatever your dining pleasure, our Chef is up for the challenge. Call us to book your tour and lunch or dinner to taste the Tapestry difference.

www.DiscoverTapestry.com

Tapestry at Wesbrook Village 3338 Wesbrook Mall, Vancouver BC 604.225.5000 Tapestry at Arbutus Walk 2799 Yew Street, Vancouver BC 604.736.1640

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CONCERT Properties / LeisureCare Canada - Duo Half Page - Pastry Chef Western Living Magazine Trim: 9” X 5.291” Bleed: 9.25” X 5.54”- Half Page - Full Colour Process Revised: April 6, 2016 - Material Deadline: March 28th, 2016 - Publication Date: April 22, 2016 Attn: Gabriella Sepulveda gabriella.sepulveda@westernliving.ca - Contact: Christina Heemsekrk (christina@theideapartner.com)

2016-04-06 5:55 PM

The Western Living e-newsletter brings you inspired home and entertaining ideas three times a week, including: • Exclusive home tours • Design advice from the pros • Wine picks • Fabulous events • Must-try dishes from our Recipe Finder PLUS entertaining tips, fantastic contests, getaway guides, cooking tips, and everything else you need to know to live life well in the West.

THE ULTIMATE GULF ISLANDS PRIMER

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As the crow flies they’re as close as suburbs, but these magical isles happily exist in their own orbit—one that includes hiking, kayaking and taking things seriously easy.

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WLTRAVEL // GULF ISLANDS

Galiano Island

Mayne Island

Salt Spring Island

North Pender Island

Duncan • South Pender Island

• Swartz Bay

VANCOUVER ISLAND

SALT SPR ING ISLAND

Rock of Ages The romance of a weekend on Pender Island is all about those moments in between, when a swing in a hammock is all you need to do that night.

Destination BC/Reuben Krabbe

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FACT SHEET Salt Spring or Saltspring—locals seem to prefer the former NAME ORIGIN Given by Hudson’s Bay Company officers who were interested in obtaining salt from the 14 briny springs on this island SIZE 182.7 sq km POPULATION 10,234 LOCAL LUMINARIES Raffi, Robert Bateman

“Barb,” the woman behind the counter calls out to a regular, “can I interest you in raffle tickets to support StageCoach Theatre School?” I’ve popped by Salt Spring Books, a spot in Ganges village that’s both a hub for its impressive selection of magazines (The New Yorker and People for the weekend, thanks) and for locals selling raffle tickets, apparently. It’s a moment that’s reflective of what makes Salt Spring unique from its other Gulf Island counterparts: people spend their lives here, raising their kids, farming sheep, turning a passion for pottery or cheese or puffins into a small business. Locals are southsiders, whether or not you live on the south side of the island (phone number prefi x: 653). Northsiders (prefi x: 537) are more likely to be vacationers—those of us who marvel at the Ganges farmers’ market and aspire to one day grasp the brass ring, to figure out how to stay on this idyllic little slice of the coast.

Because a weekend spent meandering along the winding roads of Salt Spring has me carefully planning my exit strategy from the big city. Ganges Harbour is ground zero for those first inklings of the itch: a handful of shops and westernliving.ca / M A Y

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WLTRAVEL // gulf islands

I’m tipped firmly into I-can-definitely-do-this-move when Salt Spring Island Ales appears at the end of a farm road.

restaurants that manages both the functional (Mouat’s Trading Co., built by an island family back in 1907, still serving as your spot for both bedsheets and pet food) and the touristy (Old Salty—built by the same family, fewer bedsheets, more hand-carved seagulls). At Saturday lunch hour, Barb’s Buns buzzes with soccer kids clutching cheesy bread sticks and dreadlocked yogis opting for fresh-pressed carrot, beet and ginger juices as I settle in by a window seat with The Rosie Project and the butter tart to end all butter tarts.

But outside of Ganges, the island stretches out into grassy farms and rolling hills, and though an official Salt Spring Island Studio Tour map winds you through the makers and producers dotted all over the island, each spot feels like a surprise discovery hidden in the woods. David Woods’s Salt Spring Island Cheese farm is much more of a production than Moonstruck Cheese (where a trailer and a refrigerator, avec honour box, are all that’s there to greet you), but small-town charming all the same. The woman sampling goat cheese “ruckles” and cardamom raspberry jam enthusiastically supports my choice to pair their blue Juliette with rhubarb and pink grapefruit jam-a-lade.

Further south, way into southsider territory, I’m tipped firmly into I-can-definitely-do-this-move when Salt Spring Island Ales appears at the end of a farm road (mental note: pick up organic bacon from neighbouring Furness Farm on the way home). I wind up the narrow staircase to be warmly greeted by the accountant-turnedtasting-host-for-the-day, who’s living the Salt Spring 6 2 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

Tree House Cafe, Salt Spring Island

dream: she moved here with her girlfriend last year from the Yukon, and between tastings of Earl Grey IPA and the herbal Gruit, tells us of their plans to open a restaurant below the apartment they’ve just purchased. With Salt Spring Island Ales on tap, of course. My dreams of joining their ranks get an affirmation when her partner shows up to take her home—“She gets it. Check out her boots,” she says, pointing at my Blundstones—and I mentally Breakfast Club my fist in the air.

And then there’s the Fritz movie theatre. On this Saturday night, cars line the four corners of the roads outside the former community hall, its whitewashed, wood-panelled walls now upgraded with Dolby surround sound speakers next to the sign establishing the space was once the practice home of the Salty Wheels Square Dance Club. (Alas, square dancing doesn’t hold the attention the way The Revenant does.) High-tech, yes, but anything but fancy: 10 bucks (cash only) gets you access to decent chairs, real butter on your popcorn and a packed house on most nights.

And though my book (and a roaring fire) calls back at the Stonehouse B&B, where I’m making my home for the weekend, I can’t resist a late-night check-in at Moby’s Pub on the water for Brome Lake duck wings and a roasted Brussels sprout salad. The musician onstage is playing blue-eyed soul, and one solo guy is swaying on the dance floor, though I suspect he’ll soon be joined by the dozens crowding the tables around it. We all want a slice of this island life, at least for tonight.—Anicka Quin

Signature DiSh

Salt Spring Island goat cheese bites rolled in muesli, with apricotginger chutney and warm naan at the Tree House Cafe.

reSt YOur heaD

Owner John Lefebvre first built the six-suite clutch of buildings at Stonehouse B&B for friends and family who came to visit him on Salt Spring, but converted the elegant home into a bed and breakfast a couple of years ago. With its views of the rolling hills over Ganges Harbour and a stunning stone sculpture installation from local artist Ron Crawford, the vibe is more Tuscan villa than folksy retreat—transporting in the best way. You’ll be warmly hosted by renaissance man Michael Coughlin—painter, linguist, author, trained chef and just plain charming man—whose weekend Bennies sprinkled with rosemary flowers (plucked that morning from the garden, natch) and fresh basil are the stuff dreams are made of.

Canadian Tourism Commission

The Gulf Islands' mail run: Harbour Air Seaplanes

Waves lapping at the stones provide the soundtrack as I lock eyes with the seals bobbing comfortably in the cloudy waters.

PENDER ISLAND

Destination BC/Reuben Krabbe

FACT SHEET Pender (technically North and South Pender Islands) NAmE origiN Captain Daniel Pender, Royal Navy, who sailed the HMS Plumper, HMS Hecate and the steamship Beaver to survey the coast of British Columbia between 1857 and 1870 SizE 36 sq km PoPulATioN 2,245 loCAl lumiNAriES Err . . . . Raffi lives a short boat ride away

When you live in Vancouver, you don’t have to get very far from the city to find a little greenery or an ocean view or even some wildlife. So while the majesty of nature is in abundance on Pender Island—beautiful coastal forests, 33 public ocean access points, we get it, Pender—that’s not exactly what I’m seeking out.

Rather, it’s that specific type of quiet you find only on an island: a stillness that’s underscored by the occasional chirp or twitter or lazy rustling of leaves, and—more importantly—the knowledge that you have nothing to do and nowhere to be. It’s a peace that has you surrounded.

It’s Higgs Beach, where smooth pebbles and shiny purple mussel shells crunch beneath my sneakers. The waves, lapping at the stones, provide the soundtrack as I lock eyes with the seals bobbing comfortably in the cloudy waters: a real spa vibe, aurally speaking. Down on South Pender (Pender’s actually made up of two islands, connected by a one-lane bridge that seems specifically designed for high-stakes games of vehicular chicken), farmland rolls for miles, rippling, green and dotted with the occasional

mellow cow that seems strategically placed for ambience.

Hiking Mount Norman (Norm, to the locals), I’m alone but for the beams of sunlight that break through the treetops to cinematically spotlight the forest floor ahead. It’s almost too picturesque, like a parody of a tranquil forest.

Communing with nature here on Pender doesn’t necessarily mean hiking boots and a camp cot are required.

Instead, outside a retro-cool Airstream trailer—my accommodation for the weekend at Woods on Pender, a resort that channels summer camp by way of Ace Hotel— I continue to revel in the scenery as I soak in the awfully romantic cedar tub for two. I’m supplementing the experience with a glass of wine from Sea Star, Pender’s best (and only, if you’re going to get technical about it) winery, which runs tastings out of a modern concrete and glass space up island. So yeah, I’m not exactly roughing it, but, surrounded by towering trees and those chirps and rustles, this sort of civility feels perfectly natural.

And when I’m missing a modicum of bustle, it’s not too far to be found. I could drive down the winding main drag, lined by twisted and peeling arbutus trees, to grab a pint on the dock at Port Browning and watch sailboats come and go. I could mingle with the locals at the community centre, where there’s a hula hoop fitness class going on upstairs and a wonderfully unfocused farmers’ market downstairs (would you like some feather earrings to go with your fresh eggs?). There are signs everywhere promoting an upcoming bingo night. But for now: quiet is good. Quiet is nice. —Stacey McLachlan

SigNATurE DiSH

People actually call ahead to reserve the beef tenderloin at Coffee Kitchen.

rEST Your HEAD

The aforementioned Woods on Pender, a collection of refurbished rustic-modern cabins, lodge rooms and Airstream trailers, plays to the urbanites who prefer simpler luxuries: a cozy bed, a stiff cocktail and highly Instagrammable sleeping quarters.

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Named after Lieutenant Richard Charles Mayne, son of the first commissioner of the London Metropolitan Police and an officer on the HMS Plumper Size 21 sq km PoPulatioN 1,071 local lumiNarieS Writer Grant Buday, designers Kerry Johnson and Ian McLeod, photographer John Sinal

Mayne Island is a place where boats are propped up in front yards in every state of disrepair, doors are left unlocked (and open, actually, with a screen door), residents use the honour system for trading books or selling flowers in public wooden huts, and, instead of bus stops, you’ll find designated car stops (occasionally with complimentary plastic seating) for picking up hitchhikers along the road. It’s the quintessential small-town beach community that’s been head-scratchingly left off the tourist map.

Here, you’re going to see a lot more nature than civilization, and yet this isn’t the destination to do a ton of active, outdoorsy stuff like hiking, as I find a grand total of only one skyscraper-height peak at the centre of the island and a smattering of even-keeled walking trails (that won’t have you breaking a sweat or an ankle). A pre-trip Internet search of Mayne Island activities actually lists “doing nothing” as the headliner. So what’s the draw? For one, unlike its neighbouring isles, even at the height of 6 4 m a y 2 0 1 6 / westernliving.ca

“busy” season here, there isn’t the seasonal influx of tourists crowding up the few beaches, taking up all the good patio spots or disrupting the lives of locals with a youthful bevy of drunken antics. There are no bucket-list sights or activities that you absolutely must see or do on the island, and that is a big part of its charm. You can literally put zero effort into exploring and just enjoy yourself walking around without a trace of FOMO. And the best way to explore the island without a major trajectory is by bike. I find frequent excuses to stop, like the well-curated book store, Miners Bay Books, which is just a demi-pedal from the Farm Gate Store and café, packed with supplies and locally made jams, soaps and snacks. A stop in at Nomads Essentials in “downtown” Miners Bay will give you a sense of what locals do in fact get up to. A walk up the wooden stairs into the converted house reveals shelves of Mayne Island-crafted goods: chicly packaged dry shampoo and body polish from the Healthy Ox, a line of natural toothpaste and deodorant from the local Dr. Ariel Jones, and Nomads Essentials, whose artisan soaps and home products are crafted by owner Barbara McIntyre (who, the cashier tells me, is normally there herself to give hugs to customers).

Getting off the bike is good, too. You can stroll Campbell Point Trail, a grassy walk that wraps around Bennett Bay. Here I find a local meditating on a rock in front of churning waters that twist and thrash continuously between the shore and Georgeson Island. I briefly consider joining her—even after only a few days on Mayne, it

SigNature diSh Western sandwich from Sunny Mayne Bakery: seared green and red peppers, onions and mushrooms mix in with eggs and cheese in between two toasted slices of whole wheat, seed-packed bread. reSt Your head Mayne Island Resort is the easy choice. It’s right on the water in picturesque Bennett Bay, and bikes and helmets are free for guests. But this is also prime Airbnb territory, so a search for rental properties is a savvy choice.

John Sinal

MAYNE ISLAND

WLTRAVEL // gulf islands

IF YOU BUILD IT

Is it possible the most singular restaurant in B.C. is on Galiano Island?

Leanne Lalonde and Jesse McCleery

Not Gulf IslaNds Howe Sound ISlandS Bowen, Gambier, Keats, Pasley

dIScovery ISlandS

Shelora Sheldan

Cortes, Quadra, Sonora, Hernando, Savary

San Juan ISlandS Orcas, San Juan, Lummi, Lopez, Shaw

When Jesse McCleery and Leanne Lalonde opened a little restaurant on Galiano—the most accessible but least populous of the Southern Gulf Islands—something magical happened. People came to the door bearing gifts: basil, apples, hazelnuts, corn. Everyone was rooting for them to make a go of it. Who, on a sleepy island an hour from the B.C. mainland, wouldn’t want more dining options?

True, you could always eat fairly well here—surprisingly well, actually, for a place with a winter population of only 1,250 or so (and perhaps 10 times that in summer).

The Hummingbird Pub has good burgers, Wild 1 is a roadside stop for tom yum soup and pad thai and the Flying Black Dog food truck has decent wraps (if weird hours— closed Sundays in peak summer season?). The corporate retreats and wedding parties at Bodega Ridge are well looked after, and the Galiano Inn offers pizza on the patio in summer and a dining room year-round.

But there’s never been a buzzy restaurant—a place you can’t wait to tell your friends about. Now, thanks to Pilgrimme, Salish Sea sailors redo their itineraries. Pender Islanders catch the early ferry over, the late ferry home.

Mainlanders come—by car, kayak, bicycle, float plane—to sample McCleery’s deeply personal, inventive cooking.

What’s the draw? The restaurant is tucked among cedars not far from Montague Harbour in the space that used to house La Berengerie, a charming but predictable little French place that ran its course. Pilgrimme is anything but predictable. The menu is built around what McCleery (who did a stage at René Redzepi’s acclaimed Noma in Copenhagen) finds in the woods, on the seashore and in local gardens.

His dishes seem both ancient and of the moment. Local potatoes—slow-cooked in whey, buttermilk, smoked and pickled bull kelp—are a revelation. Dabs of delicate herring roe and burnt yogurt brighten charred kale shoots.

And who else would pair seared albacore with preserved eggplant, beetroot, apple and cultured cream? Each plate is an elegant but unpretentious composition; flavours and textures work together as harmoniously as a string quartet. McCleery has a rare gift.

Small wonder that Pilgrimme has attracted glowing reviews, that it now shows up on many “best of” and “recommended” lists (enRoute’s Best New Restaurants in Canada, for instance)—and that Galiano residents who love great food keep bringing offerings to the door.

—Gary Stephen Ross westernliving.ca / m a y

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WL // TRADE SECRETS

DESIGNED BY

T‍ ה‏L k

BOLD AND BLUE

A punch of colour gives this kitchen some serious personality.

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“You’ve got to be a little brave for colour like this,� laughs designer Greer Nelson, one half, alongside Jamie Hamilton, of Vancouver duo Oliver Simon Design. Though this vibrant blue is peppered throughout the whole home, in the kitchen it gets the star treatment, showcased on a modern-rustic barn-style door. And when the bravery turns to boredom? “Just paint it a new colour,� says Hamilton. “Way easier than changing the backsplash.�

Tracey Ayton

G r N n & J H n

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