Western Living BC, April2017 by NextHome

WESTERN LIVING // APRIL 2017

How a Century-Old Home Became a Modern Beauty We Love Fashion Designer Paul Hardyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s First Home Makeover

PM 40068973

PLUS How to Cook Like a Pro

Inspiring Renovations

Experience the before and after

See more stories #CCBeforeAfter

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Seeing Red It’s no surprise that a fashion designer with a rock-and-roll bent would go bold in his first interiors project. Story on page 58.

A P R I L 2 017 Cover: Tracey Ayton. This page: Phil Crozier.

B R I T I S H C O LU M B I A // V O LU M E 4 6 // N U M B E R 3

MAKEOVER MAGIC 44 // This Old House

After a rushed initial attempt at a reno, a family home in Vancouver’s oldest neighbourhood is finally given new life (and a lot of love) with the help of Mango Design.

52 // Gateway Reno

The thoughtful renovation of a historic gatehouse by homeowner-and-designer Aliki Gladwin straddles Vancouver’s past and present.

58 // Animalia Domestica

Renowned fashion designer Paul Hardy takes on his first interior design project, with predictably dramatic results—think gold ceilings and chandeliers galore. westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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WL // contents

food 68 // Bites

Recipes, restaurant openings and cookbook reviews.

design 29 // One to Watch

Local lamp design firm Loom steps into the spotlight.

30 // Shopping

Woven pillow covers, velvet sofas and kitchen accessories we’re coveting.

34 // Openings

A design store that pulls out all the stops and more great new rooms.

36 // Great Spaces

A Kelly Deck-designed juicery embraces a “Scandifornian” vibe.

38 // Lighting We Love

A new wave of illuminating designs. 1 6 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

71 // How to Boil an Egg

How to slice, dice, fry, preserve, peel and prep like the pros.

travel 82 // 48 Hours in L.A.

Here’s how to make your weekend in L.A. as magical as La La Land.

84 // Utopia Redux

A billionaire is reimagining the exotic island of Lanai—but does this paradise need improving?

plus 90 // Trade Secrets

A custom Douglas fir canopy turns a dining nook into a cozy retreat.

Lanai: Hawaii Tourism Authority/Dana Edmunds; food: Tracey Kusiewicz; Redbury Hotel: Skott Snider; Nectar Juicery: Barry Calhoun

WESTERN LIVING editorial editorial director Anicka Quin art director Paul Roelofs executive editor Stacey McLachlan food & travel editor Neal McLennan associate art director Jenny Reed associate editor Julia Dilworth assistant art director Natalie Gagnon staff writer Kaitlyn Gendemann contributing editors Amanda Ross, Nicole Sjöstedt,

Barb Sligl, Jim Sutherland, Julie Van Rosendaal city editors Karen Ashbee (Calgary), Jyllian Park (Edmonton), Rosemary Poole (Victoria) editorial interns Gabrielle Lakusta, Maansi Pandya, Carly Whetter art intern Eva Lu

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WL // editor’s note

anick a quin, editorial director anick a.quin@westernliving.ca 2 0 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Q& A This month we asked our contributors, what’s your favourite kitchen hack?

Amanda Ross, Writer “This Old House” page 44 When I bake a cake, I always leave the butter and eggs out the night before so they’re at room temperature when I’m ready to start—and I often add a teaspoon or so of vinegar to the batter to make it fluffier (the vinegar reacts with the baking soda).

Kyoko Fierro, Photographer “One to Watch” page 29 I use a sea-salt brine for fish and poultry. Cut your pieces to size and dip them in brine before storing in the fridge—the brine keeps the food longer, improves textures, and brings out umami flavour over the next couple of days!

Behind the Scenes Our stellar team of interns shadowed Associate Art Director Jenny Reed on-set at our “One to Watch” photo shoot (page 29)—and she couldn’t resist posting this gang shot on our Instagram feed. From left, Gabrielle Lakusta, Maansi Pandya, Eva Lu and Carly Whetter.

VISIT

Anicka Quin portrait: Evaan Kheraj; styling by Luisa Rino, makeup by Melanie Neufeld; dress courtesy Nordstrom; watch courtesy Tiffany & Co. Photographed at the Aviary, theaviary.ca.

A LITTLE FRENCH INSPIRATION

A couple of years ago, I walked around the Granville Island market in Vancouver with the U.S.-born and Paris-based chef and cookbook author David Lebovitz. We were meandering among the produce and baked goods—he was impressed with the yellow tangerines and Thai eggplants, and the fact that Canadians had access to raw-milk cheese like brie de Meaux—when he brought up the French concept of au pif. Essentially, it’s the philosophy of “cooking by the nose”—say, poking around a market like the one we were in, spotting a great pork loin, and deciding that it was going to be the star of the menu that night. A bunch of Swiss chard, a great bottle of red and an impromptu call to friends later, and a French chef could be whipping up the night’s dinner, sans recipe. No small part of that ease in the kitchen comes from having an arsenal of tips and tricks that have been passed down through the generations. In a food-loving culture like France— this is, after all, the country that claims to have a different cheese for every day of the year—it makes sense that the freedom to be imprecise in the kitchen originates in the act of simply cooking with others, be it grandparents, parents or friends, and learning along the way. For those of you who haven’t had the benefit of a grand-mère’s teachings, we’ve gathered up dozens of kitchen tips straight from our best source: top chefs from across the West (“How to Boil an Egg,” page 71). From simple concepts (the best way to prepare scrambled eggs) to easy dinner hacks (puff pastry for the win) to perfect substitutions (no birch syrup? Add a little molasses to your maple), each tip inches you a little closer to mastering the art of au pif. And for the real francophiles among you, we’ve also got an easy-to-nail-it tarte tatin recipe—that perfect combo of caramel, apples and pastry. You’ll very likely be able to replicate this slice of comfort food sans recipe the second time around, since that’s just how you’ll roll in the kitchen after reading this issue.

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WL // @WesternLiving

LETTERS, ETC.

Tweet, message, ’gram or email (mail@westernliving.ca)— we love to hear from our readers!

DESIGN Dream Cabin in the Woods Architect Michael Leckie’s newest project takes an Ikea-meets-backcountry approach to prefab housing.

westernliving.ca/homes

TRENDING Velvet Underground

Interior designer Kendall Ansell gives us the scoop on why this luxe fabric is making a comeback—and shares her secrets for how to get the velvet look at home.

westernliving.ca/trends

RECIPE Fish Tacos with Juicy Papaya Salsa

around toWn

Belcampo Belize’s fish tacos are irresistible thanks to a heaping portion of halibut and juicy papaya (or mango!) salsa.

westernliving.ca/recipes

Flower power

Western Living Publisher Dee Dhaliwal, Editorial Director Anicka Quin and Art Director Paul Roelofs enjoying a cocktail at our annual contributors celebration. Thanks to Tableau Bar Bistro for hosting our ragtag crew of writers, photogs and illustrators!

What an amazing space. Adore it. @shiragoldphotography

Wow. Love this! Nice work! @k arinbohn Joy in the morning. @brillanteinteriors

2 2 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

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Fish tacos: Tara Donne; wallpaper: Janis Nicolay

This touch of floral metallic glam from interior designer Robert Bailey is proof positive that wallpaper belongs in the powder room.

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HOMES I N T E R I O R S // A R C H I T E C T U R E // D E S I G N // L I V I N G

Second Looks

Tracey Ayton

What do the best renovation projects have in common? In one way or another, they embrace a home’s history. Whether it’s restoring a feature fireplace or installing a vintage-inspired wallpaper (like the Cole and Son’s Woods print that lines the walls of this revamped Vancouver nursery), even the most modern of makeovers can nod respectfully to the past and breathe new life into a beautiful old design. Turn the page to get a peek into three gorgeous spaces from across the West that do just that.

westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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WL HOMES // renovations

Back in Black Designer Tanya McLean of Mango Design brought this 1902 home back to glory; it features both vintage designs like the coffee table (opposite) and vintage-inspired pieces, like the Bend stools in the kitchen (above).

4 4 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

THIS

OLD HOUSE

by amanda ross photographs by tracey ayton

A family home in Vancouverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s oldest neighbourhood is given new life and a lot of love. westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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Material World McLean worked with the Strathcona neighbourhoodâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s own Union Wood Co. to create the privacy screen at the front door and the living roomâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s industrial shelving (opposite), in torched oak, blackened steel, copper pipe and wired glass.

hen homeowners Meika and Jamie interviewed a seasoned contractor after purchasing their 1902 home back in 2012, his advice was clear: you need to live in the house before you renovate. Wise words to live by—if only the pair had listened. But they were too eager to wait. After all, they’d already spent years just finding the house in the first place. After having nearly given up on househunting altogether, they alighted on the heritage charmer in Vancouver’s Strathcona, the city’s oldest residential community. The couple loved that the 2,200-squarefoot house had high 10-½ -foot ceilings that created the illusion of more space, but there was no finished basement and the rest was chopped up—and the exterior was covered in 1970s-era stucco. Still, they fell in love. “We could see the potential,” says Meika. They immediately put forth plans to replace the stucco with original wood siding, finish the basement and gut the entire main and second floors, despite the contractor’s warning. Cue the old words about “best-laid plans.” “We felt a sense of urgency for no reason!” says Meika. “We dove into the renovation and it went terribly wrong.” They hadn’t hired someone who was familiar with old houses, she says. “He was a friend of a friend—a great guy, but in the condo business. I was never happy with the designs and then we were always changing our minds midstream,” she adds. “That’s huge: if you’re not content with the design, you can’t change things on the fly, since it costs a lot and no contractor wants to work with people like that!” The distraught pair pulled the plug after replacing the exterior siding and finishing the basement— and opted to live in the unfinished house mid-reno instead to regroup. Fast forward two years later, and a now-pregnant Meika needed to finally address those open, exposed walls. A recommendation from

westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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“I love working on old homes because you can feel their soul. This inspires the way we design the space—we definitely want to work with the home’s integrity, not against it.” Black Beauty “To be honest, we weren’t sure about the black cabinets at first,” says Meika. “Now the kitchen is by far our favourite room in the house.” The Julien apron-front sink (opposite, bottom right) fits right into the 1902 home.

Pattern Play The Deco Diamonds wallpaper from Graham and Brown in the powder room (top right) served as inspiration elsewhere, too: McLean created an inlay tile in the front foyer that’s an echo of this pattern.

Stylish Transition Covered in white 3D tiles made of natural plant fibre, the reimagined room divider (top left) serves as a focal point to the main floor. Leather pulls on the millwork add a masculine vibe to the home bar.

Home Sweet Home “We made so many mistakes in the first round,” says homeowner Meika (pictured right, with baby Morogh). “But once we met Tanya and her partner Nichol, we knew we’d made the right decision.”

Heritage Details DuChateau’s Trestle oiled white oak flooring has the patina of reclaimed building materials (while still being FSC-certified) and matches the vintage stair treads and banister (top). Oh Baby With Cole and Son’s Woods paper on the walls, the nursery feels both modern and fairy talelike—a reinterpretation of a 1950s design (bottom).

their landscaper, Aloe Designs, put them in touch with Tanya McLean of Mango Design, who coincidentally happened to recommend Claudio Ance as contractor: that very same contractor who had so wisely counselled them to live in the house when they first contemplated renovating. And he lived in the same neighbourhood. “We knew we were now in the right hands,” says Meika. From the outset, the couple was clear on one thing—they wanted a design that would stand the test of time. “It needed to be timeless and not look like a 2015 renovation 10 years from now,” says Meika. They also wanted to retain the heritage elements while modernizing but also weave in a masculine aesthetic. All of which dovetailed with Tanya’s ethos: “I love working on old homes because you can feel their soul. This inspires the way we design the space—we definitely want to work with the home’s integrity, not against it.” Inspiration came from the palette of an old private investigator’s office: old wood, wired glass, vintage cool. Part of the task was to create a space that was both functional for the family and for their myriad entertaining needs—they love impromptu gatherings with friends and family. The main floor now doubles as party HQ, thanks to the removal of a structural wall that ran through it. New structural beams stand in for much-needed support, while a dining hutch and coat closet hide the mechanical guts of the house. With the dividing wall gone, natural light now floods the space. A large Douglas fir window was added over the kitchen sink—which connects the space visually to the backyard—and the mudroom’s walls were removed to create a more open vibe. Tanya had also presented the couple with two kitchen palettes: lighter and airier or darker and more classic with white oak stained in Benjamin Moore’s Black Beauty. The couple opted for black. “People are often afraid of black cabinets and feel they’re too dark—but with the white countertops, backsplash and paint, plus the new kitchen window, the space feels rich but not at all too dark,” says Tanya. In a surprise twist, Meika went into labour six weeks early. The house, not yet finished, was telling them it wanted them to move in. Claudio wrapped up his work, and the couple soon enjoyed six months each with their newborn during their respective parental leaves. “It was such a nice space to have one-on-one time with the baby,” enthuses Meika. “It’s been the perfect space to celebrate with friends and family.” It was also the perfect end to their renovation tale—and the start of a new chapter in the home’s story. S e e w e S t e r n l i v i n g .c a f o r S o u r c e S

INSPIRE.DESIGN.CREATE. www.amestile.com Follow us at ameswestsecond

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WL HOMES // renovations

GATEWAY RENO The thoughtful renovation of a historic gatehouse in Vancouver straddles past and present.

hen the gatehouse at the Shannon Estate was first built back in 1913, it marked the entrance to a grand 10-acre property once owned by sugar magnate B.T. Rogers. Today, the red-brick house, just off busy Granville Street in Vancouver’s Kerrisdale neighbourhood, still sees a steady stream of passersby, this time as the gateway to the redeveloped historic grounds—with homeowner Aliki Gladwin acting as a modern-day gatekeeper of sorts, part of the living history here. And she herself is a part of the manor’s history—her brother first alerted her to the estate going on the market and let her know that their mother had helped prepare packages with the Red Cross in the mansion during the Second World War. Something clicked, and Gladwin decided to purchase the gatehouse—and put her designer stamp on it. An interior designer with more than three decades of experience, she negotiated with the developer to do the interior renos herself, along with her colleague Pembrooke Collier. As a heritage-designated Beaux Arts estate, the redevelopment by Shannon Wall Centre Kerrisdale, including Gladwin’s gatehouse, a coach house, mansion, Italianate gardens and mews (added in the ’70s and designed by architect

by barb sligl photographs by andrew latreille

5 2 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Slice of History When the historic Shannon Estate was being converted into a new housing development, designer Aliki Gladwin purchased the original 1913 gatehouse and negotiated with the developer to renovate the property herself.

Juxtaposed with these old elements is a contemporary light fixture from Belgium, midcentury-modern Fritz Hansen dining chairs and a pair of vintage rush-seat armchairs, found in a Parisian flea market. 5 4 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Arthur Erickson), was subject to strict rules. Gladwin had to work within these confines, as well as within the usual building codes. And, in the process, she uncovered a meant-to-be mix of old and new. The original handrail, sandblasted to remove layers of leadloaded paint, revealed a lovely, timeworn objet d’art. “It became this texture,” Gladwin says of the gnarled surface, “and I thought, why shouldn’t I just keep it?” In the garden room, originally a porch that’s now enclosed in glass (per heritage architect Robert Lemon’s plans), Gladwin added red brick and cornices discarded and discovered on the site, and painted the original porch ceiling. Juxtaposed with these old elements is a contemporary light fixture from Belgium, mid-century-modern Fritz Hansen dining chairs and a pair of vintage rush-seat armchairs, found in a Parisian flea market. (“I didn’t even touch them up,” says Gladwin.) Repurposing pieces—whether antique or more current cast-offs—is

Heavy Metal Gladwin gave great presence to the fireplace in this cozy den with a full-height warm metallic surround (opposite). Heritage Revival When Gladwin renovated her previous home, she saved the counters with plans to use them somedayâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;and the maple is now featured here (right). In the garden room (below), Gladwin added red brick and cornices discarded on-site during construction.

part of Gladwin’s passion. When a corporate client wanted to get rid of light fixtures above a trading desk, she knew the perfect place for them—in the kitchen, over the stately island she designed (using marble as well as maple counters she saved from a long-gone kitchen). “I always ask, if you have things, how can you reuse them in a different context that makes the space work in a different way,” says Gladwin. A rug she designed 15 years ago is now at home in the den, alongside other furniture she’s long had and still loves: a Barcelona table by Mies van der Rohe, Switzer chairs, a Christian Liaigre sofa. Even her colour palette is tried and true. The Black Pearl finish of an oft-used commercial-grade laminate is sampled for the almost bluetinged charcoal of the stairway handrail and millwork throughout the house. “I’ve used that so many times on projects,” says Gladwin, “and it still works well because it’s such an interesting colour.” It contrasts with the soft-grey walls and emboldens elements like the Frenchinspired metal doors Gladwin designed. It’s as if this house is a repository for her curated collection, 5 6 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

whether gathered from her travels over the years or somehow shaped with the gatehouse in mind. Artwork and accessories range from local artists like Greg Murdock to baskets from bazaars in Turkey, and the wide-board, extra-thick and -long fir flooring (some boards are 20 feet in length) comes from Denmark. After she saw the soap-finish floor at the Saatchi Gallery in London, she knew she wanted it for the gatehouse. “It gives it a different patina,” she says. Everything’s been carefully chosen and has a story. Decorative glass from her granny is displayed in the powder room above a modern iteration of the dado line that uses Moroccan-inspired tile in place of wainscoting. It’s a very personal take that’s a culmination of Gladwin’s extensive interior-design career, yet is tailored for this gatehouse. “I didn’t want to do the house really traditional,” says Gladwin. “But the house is 103 years old, so I didn’t want it really contemporary. I wanted it to be a mix in between.” She’s taken this old gatehouse and, while respecting its heritage design roots, reinvigorated it as a gateway between past and present, and made it relevant again. S e e w e S t e r n l i v i n g .c a f o r S o u r c e S

Artistic Respite Gladwin has collected art for years, and pieces by Greg Murdock and Mario Malfer line the walls in the upstairs study area (opposite). Quiet Spaces Gladwin designed the shower in the master bath (left) with an infinity drain, so it wouldn’t require a step or a door. “I wanted it as clean as possible,” she says. In the master bedroom, felt panels on the wall became the headboard (below)—a corporate material that has soundabsorbing qualities as well.

westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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WL HOMES // renovations

Master Planner Fashion designer Paul Hardyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first foray into home design is a richly layered, darkly moody experiment in storytelling. Many of the pieces are handfinished, including the green lamp in the living room (opposite); the shade was hand-feathered by Hardyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s team.

5 8 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

ANIMALIA DOMESTICA Fashion designer Paul Hardy channels his artistic talents into a wildly successful first foray into interior design.

by jacquie Moore

photographs by phil crozier

Eclectic Design Each room is an exercise in creativity: in the dining room, the chandelier is two fixtures layered with a dozen peculiar items (including a fly swatter and dollâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s head) and spraypainted black. In the master bedroom (opposite), the reading light is actually an antique dental lamp. 6 0 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Certainly, the eclectic chandelier is a conversation starter, but it’s not the most unusual piece in a house whose inhabitants can lay claim to being first to hire Hardy as an interior decorator.

he boundless mind and energy of Paul Hardy—the renowned Winnipeg-born fashion designer whose fan base includes Kate Hudson, Daniel Lanois and the late Carrie Fisher—can be grasped, if only fractionally, via a chandelier that hangs in the dining room of a home in Elbow Valley, just west of Calgary. Three feet in length and half as wide, the piece comprises two Home Depot fixtures mashed together and strung with a dozen peculiar items—a fly swatter, a vintage doll’s head and other antique toys—all spray-painted solid, glossy black. Certainly, it’s a conversation starter (one-half of the homeowner couple hated it until his dinner guests went nuts for it), but it’s not the most unusual piece in a house whose inhabitants can lay claim to being first to hire Hardy as an interior decorator. A couple of years ago, amid several other enviable achievements, including designing costumes for Sarah McLachlan’s ballet and launching a hit shearling collection, Hardy curated an exhibit at Calgary’s Glenbow Museum. Kaleidoscopic Animalia examined the

human relationship with animals via fashion and fabric, historical artifacts and artwork culled largely from Glenbow’s archives. Interestingly, the theme of the exhibit was influenced by thinking Hardy had done in conceiving the soul of this idiosyncratic Elbow Valley house a year earlier. Hardy met one of the homeowners several years ago when she started buying his ready-to-wear collection. They forged a friendship and, when she told him she was confounded by her new family home (chosen in part due to its proximity to family), Hardy came out to take a look, with the intention of guiding her toward the most suitable of his interior-design friends. “She was overwhelmed at the idea of decorating it—it’s enormous and was brand new and billed as ‘French country’ by the builder,” says Hardy. He reassured his friend that the flow of the house was well designed and the physical spaces mindfully considered, and he left with the promise of a recommendation. His friend, meanwhile, couldn’t shake the feeling that the best designer to interpret her westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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Play Date In the games room, the feature wall of tiny wooden compartments is actually vintage typeset drawers; the red cushions are constructed from the homeowner’s own needlepoint pieces. The wine cellar (below) features materials from an old French mercantile.

vision of a “dark and brooding” home layered with exquisite learning opportunities for her kids was Hardy. “I guess she could see that I understood what she loved, the way I mixed materials and old and new in my [Inglewood] boutique,” says Hardy. “She and her husband knew that, because of my business, I’d only be able to slowly chip away at their house. They were okay with that.” It took nearly four years, but today they’re delighted with a home that suits their busy lives with young kids and embodies the robust range of their passions and personalities. In almost comical contrast to the deeply personal and wildly eclectic furniture, artwork and objects in this house was the couple’s starkly modernist former home. As Hardy puts it, “That was a nice house, but nobody would guess who lived there. It had no reflection of who they were or their personality or interests.” As if fleeing from a fire, the couple left their old digs with literally nothing but artwork and one end table; everything in their new house was custom-designed and -built (including several light fixtures and bookshelves by local industrial artist Cory Barkman) or hand-picked by Hardy. “I’m very much a storyteller in my clothing collections, and I do everything with a lot of intention,” he says. “I approached this project in the same manner.” Here, virtually everything the eye or foot lands on illuminates, educates or otherwise gives curious pause. “My friend wanted everything in the house to be a point of learning for her kids about their family, about history, art, design, colour theory and the couple’s interests,” he explains. Of endless fascination to both the home’s school-aged 6 2 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Photo cour tesy naikooncontrac ting.com

North Vancouver’s award-winning Winton House offers comfort and energy savings With help from BC Hydro, Naikoon Contracting built North Vancouver’s Winton House to be one of the first new homes in B.C. to qualify for the ENERGY STAR® for New Homes Standard. Joe Geluch, president of Naikoon Contracting, knew that their 2015-built Winton House was a winner, but even he found himself caught off guard by the number of Georgies and Ovation awards rolling in.

The early plan was to add renewables, including solar panels, at a later time. But that changed. “The addition of renewable energy is not something everyone can do right away – this is a classic case where we built the envelope in a premium format and then planned for the renewables,” he said. However, as the project concluded, the Cadieus made the call to add solar PV panels at the build stage.

When asked about the family’s favourite aspect of their new home, The North Vancouver residence was built in 2015 for Travis and Beth Cadieu, who were looking for an energy-efficient home that was both Travis can’t seem to choose just one. modern and traditional in style. “We wanted the indoor space to be “We have a rainwater storage tank that is buried under the driveway,” open and simple, and we were inspired to design the exterior of the he said. “It came in handy last year during the dry summer. We love all house to remind us of a modern chalet one might see in Whistler,” the concrete finishings in the house, from the powder room sink to the said Travis Cadieu. “With this in mind, we wanted to create a home fireplace and kitchen counter tops. Also, we totally love the green roof that kept energy costs to a minimum, as we have a family of three kids we created above the garage.” that use lots of household energy on a daily basis.” Geluch says it’s that variety that makes the house such a winner. The home achieves that aim through a number of factors including “What sets this home apart is that it’s kind of got it all,” he says. “It’s LED lighting and triple glazed Argon windows. Geluch and his got curb appeal, beautiful design, and amazing interior features,” team focused on the air-tight building envelope, which creates a he added. comfortable environment by minimizing drafts and leaks. A fresh air “The energy efficiency and the green part is the cherry on top, really.” system that controls and balances incoming cool fresh air with the outgoing warm stale air ensures a healthier home environment while also saving energy.

In the market for a new house? See the difference better built homes can make. Learn more at bchydro.com/newhome. B17-023

Family Zone Hardy had a door removed to fit the custom oversized sofa into the bonus room— perfect for the whole family to cozy up in. And when the kids want a more intimate space to hang out, he created an indoor camping experience for them (below)— complete with fabric marshmallows on sticks.

residents and adult visitors alike are a rooster skeleton in the living room, a vintage working pay phone in the ensuite, an antique dental lamp in the master bedroom, a tiny Victorian-era princess-and-thepea bed in the kitchen, a Great Lakes-printed rug in the office and—of particular interest to the over-18 crowd—a dazzlingly stocked wine cellar built entirely out of materials reclaimed from an old mercantile in France, with the racks, pallets, and flooring all reclaimed from French vineyards. Books abound on puzzling shelves all over the house, and every chair evokes a question or conversation (some answers include, “yes, that’s ostrich hide, yes, those are movie theatre seats and, yes, indeed, that’s lingerie elastic”). As a fashion designer, Hardy has long proven his storytelling savvy: every collection, no matter how eclectic, is bound by a subtle but compelling narrative arc. And that holds true with his first interior, whose animalia narrative was born out of the homeowners’ collection of artwork. “I noticed that almost all of it featured animals: bears, buffalo, birds, beavers, et cetera,” says Hardy. “Oddly, when I asked my friend about it, she admitted that she hadn’t even realized the animal focus— they’d just been drawn to each piece individually.” With characteristic intention, Hardy drew the theme out in ways both overt (a cheerful polar bear in the dining room) and subtle (hunting-dog wallpaper on a pantry wall) . It works because, moving through this functional, captivating museum of a house, you don’t so much see the theme as feel it: wild, unpredictable, organic, earthy. A natural habitat for a family seeking a wilder life. 6 4 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

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FOOD

R E S T A U R A N T S // E X P E R T A D V I C E // E N T E R T A I N I N G // W I N E // R E C I P E S

Cook Like a Pro These days, chefs fall somewhere in between priests and politicians for the rarefied place they occupy in our foodobsessed society. And while many of them are enjoying a moment in the sun, for the most part they’ve spent their careers working insanely long hours (in often dismal conditions) before they ever get to don the “head chef” whites. So with that in mind, we’re mining them for the secrets they learned on the way up. Which knives are great, which are garbage? Should I buy a sous-vide machine? And how come hard-boiling eggs is so tricky? The answers to these questions and more start on page 71.

Victoria Shibut

b a r t en d e r’s t i p Bottoms Up! “The best way to preserve your summer cherries is to poach them in simple syrup, then store in brandy for Old-Fashioned cocktails.” Garett Blundell, Tableau Bar Bistro

westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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WLFOOD // bites recipe

o p en i n g s

Road Trip

Burgoo Burrard

Friends Lindsay Anderson and Dana VanVeller have a few shared passions: Canada, its people, the open road and, above all, food. In the summer of 2013 they set out to travel this great land, eating up and drinking in all that it had to offer. The result is Feast: Recipes and Stories from a Canadian Road Trip, which gathers all the bounty they uncovered—like this egg dish from the Gulf Islands.

Fans of the Burgoo mini-chain (there’s an outpost deep in Point Grey, one in Kitsilano, another on Main Street and one in North Vancouver) are known to be a little fanatic about their chosen eatery. The elevated comfort food, like maybe the best grilled cheese in B.C., will finally be available to those living downtown. This spot near St. Paul’s is noticeably lighter and airier than the other cozy locales, but the Irish lamb stew will be every bit as hearty. burgoo.ca

101–1100 Burrard St., VancouVer

Eggs Galiano

Preheat the oven to 375°F. In a large, ovenproof skillet (preferably well-seasoned cast iron), sauté the chorizo over medium heat, stirring frequently. After about 8 minutes, once the chorizo looks crispy, remove it with a slotted spoon, keeping as much oil as possible in the pan. Add the olive oil (and add more if the chorizo didn’t release much fat). Add the diced red onion, bell pepper and garlic. Sauté about 10 minutes or until the onion and pepper have softened. Stir in the cumin, then add the tomatoes and salt. Bring to a boil, lower the heat and simmer for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the chorizo. Let simmer until the sauce has thickened (about 10 to 15 minutes). Taste and season further if desired. With the pan still over medium heat, use a spoon to make 6 (or 8) evenly spaced shallow divots in the sauce, and carefully crack an egg into each one. Transfer the pan to the preheated oven and bake for 8 minutes. While the eggs are baking, peel, pit and dice the avocado, then set aside. Remove the pan from the oven and sprinkle the feta evenly over the surface, then return to the oven for about 3 to 5 more minutes (a non-cast-iron skillet will take a little longer). Remove from the oven when the egg whites are just set, but the yolks are still runny—you’ll want to keep a close eye on it toward the end. Top with the sliced red onion, chopped avocado and cilantro. Big slices of toasted sourdough, drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with salt, are the perfect accompaniment. Serves 4 to 6. ExcErptEd from Feast: Recipes and stoRies FRom a canadian Road tRip. publishEd by AppEtitE by rAndom housE.

6 8 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

The Very Good Butchers 6–1701 douglaS St., Victoria

BITES

What we’re eating and drinking

These plant-based butchers (yes, that’s a thing), from Denman Island, have opened their first bricks-and-mortar store in the Victoria Public Market. The duo works some serious wonders—beerbattered eggplant and chips, barbecued pulled jackfruit—all without the aid of animals. Very good indeed. verygoodbutchers.com

Neal’s Bottle Pick

Second Coming of CDP domaine de Beaurenard châteauneuf-du-PaPe 2013 $63

There are few appellations that have the brand power of the French powerhouse that is Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The irony is that other than the fact that the grapes have to come from certain designated areas in the Southern Rhône, producers have largely free rein on how they create the wine. Most use a majority of grenache but will often add syrah, mourvèdre, cinsault and up to 14 other varieties to the final mix. For a while in the ’90s and early ’00s, CDP’s main selling point—its power—threatened to be its downfall as producers, goaded by high scores from wine critics, began to craft enormous boozy wines that were all brawn and no finesse. Thankfully, some producers have eased up on the throttle—typified by this offering from the historic Domaine de Beaurenard. It’s got plenty of power, but the ample (organic and biodynamic) fruit is tempered by a stream of acidity and peppery bite that brings balance to the beast.

Neal McLennan

Potato skins: David Strongman; eggs Galiano: Lindsay Anderson and Dana VanVeller; Burgoo grilled cheese: Robert Shaer

1 link (about 5.5 oz) good-quality cured chorizo, cut into ½-inch chunks 1 tsp olive oil 1 medium red onion, ¾ finely diced, ¼ thinly sliced 1 small red bell pepper, diced 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced ½ tsp ground cumin 1 28-oz can whole tomatoes, with juice ¾ tsp salt 6 to 8 eggs 1 avocado ¼ cup crumbled feta ¼ cup chopped fresh cilantro 1 loaf sourdough or other fresh bread, sliced and toasted (for serving)

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tip

diy tapas Preserve fresh-picked olives (without lye) by hanging them from the rafters or roof of your garage in a pillowcase with equal parts rock salt. Toss every few days for a couple of months until most of the liquid has dripped out (into a pan). Rinse and refrigerate. — Felix Zhou, Heritage Asian Eatery

Easy Peasy!

Find Julian Bond's recipe for these yorkshire puddings on page 75.

How to Boil an Egg (and other life-saving chef hacks)

tip

Flake Out!

I’m a big fan of dehydrated quinoa flakes to bulk out alternative proteins like ground turkey, chickpeas or beans when I’m making meatballs and meatloaves. They help to absorb moisture and they also act as a clean binding agent. — Darren Brown, Chef D Brown

Repeat after us: it’s not that hard. Sure, there’s no easy way to make Beef Wellington, but the best chefs in the West know that there are plenty of shortcuts to help you channel your inner culinary star without breaking the bank or breaking a sweat. We’ve assembled them here to tell all.

// food photography and styling by Tracey Kusiewicz

WLFOOD // chef tips tips

The Best Way To: preserve a bunch of cilantro:

Cut an inch off the base and place it in a jar of water. It will extend its life for a few more days and keep it fresh. —Christine Beard, Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts

make mac and cheese with real cheese:

Add sodium citrate (Amazon sells it) to the milk before adding the cheese to get a super-smooth emulsified cheese sauce. —Tobias MacDonald, Vancouver Community College Culinary Arts

preserve used vanilla bean pods:

Dry them and then grind them in a coffee grinder! —Thomas Haas, Thomas Haas Chocolates

preserve truffles:

Keep them dry; moisture will make them go bad quickly. You can keep them wrapped in a paper towel (but change the towel daily). Most importantly, they should be in an airtight container, on the top shelf of your fridge. That way you can keep them for over a week. —Jean-Claude Douget, Gotham

preserve a cut avocado:

Immerse it in water. —Mariana Gabilondo, La Mezcaleria

prep tofu:

Press it to release excess moisture. —Christine Beard

HOW TO PREP RARE TUNA LIKE A PRO First prepare a crust or topping (I like chopped parsley, lemon zest and edamame bean, for example—a Japanese gremolata). Then, quickly poach the tuna loin in dashi or miso soup by plunging it in for 30 seconds, pulling it out and rolling the whole loin in your choice of topping. This way the tuna loin is cooked evenly all around when you slice it into medallions and you see the cross-section; it’s also guaranteed to stay nice and tender because it never had a hard sear or caramelization to close up the pores after its dashi bath. This also allows the tuna to absorb more of the oils from the herbs and lemon zest. —Darren Brown

I N G R ED I EN T S

Prep School: Fennel!

Chefs Dish on Ingredients More!

Less!

Turmeric

Quinoa

Black sesame (in pastries)

Truffle oil

Gochujang

Avocados

Nutritional yeast

Activated charcoal

Seaweed

California strawberries

Kombu kelp

Farmed shrimp

Empanadas

Kale

Boudin noir

Kobe burgers

What Fennel is a refreshing and underutilized way to add fresh aniseed flavours to a variety of pork and fish dishesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; add the feathery fronds to salads, soup, pesto or fish stock.

Cauliflower

TO O L S

Buy This â&#x20AC;&#x153;The commercial tool that I think every home should have is a way better hood fan. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know about you, but my smoke detector goes off if I make toast at home.â&#x20AC;? How The best way to prep fennel is to slice away both ends of the bulb (saving the softer fronds). Pull away any tougher outer leaves from the base. Cut bulb in half vertically and make a V-shaped cut to remove the cores. Slice vertically into wedges, then use as desiredâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;it can be eaten raw! â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Julian Bond, CEO, Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts

Tâ&#x20AC;Ť ×&#x201D;â&#x20AC;Źef S g st Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one ingredient the home chef should be using more of and why? Champagne vinegar. It just makes everything sparkle. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Jeff Koop, Mamie Taylorâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

Suck It

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Not This â&#x20AC;&#x153;Home kitchens have no need for sous-vide machines. They can be dangerous from a food poisoning perspective if not used correctly.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Colleen McClean, International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Vancouver

Slow Ride

The Anova precision cooker. $270, amazon.ca

westernliving.ca / A P R I L

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WLFOOD // chef tips

Easy Recipes (That Sound Hard) We asked the crack team at Vancouver’s Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts to tell us what dishes sound really impressive . . . but are secretly no sweat. Here’s what they had to say—and the proof is in the recipes.

Mary-Frances Bahun, baking and pastry chef instructor

Soufflé 1 cup dark chocolate (at least 60% cacao) 1/4 cup unsalted butter Pinch salt 1 tsp vanilla 1 tbsp Grand Marnier 1/2 cup egg yolks 1/4 cup sugar 1 cup egg whites Pinch cream of tartar Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter and sugar 6 to 8 individual ramekins; refrigerate. Melt chocolate and butter with vanilla and Grand Marnier. Whip together egg yolks and sugar until ribbon stage, then fold into chocolate mixture. Separately, whip egg whites with cream of tartar until stiff peaks appear. Slowly fold egg white mixture into chocolate mixture. Delicately fill ramekins with mixture using a spoon. Be careful not to get any on the sides of ramekins. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes. Enjoy immediately.

Julian Bond, vice-president and CEO

Yorkshire Puddings 2/3 cup all-purpose flour (sifted) 4 eggs (room temperature), beaten 200 ml milk Vegetable shortening or sunflower oil Salt and pepper Preheat oven to 425°F. In a medium mixing bowl, add flour and beaten eggs and stir until smooth. Gradually add milk, salt and pepper, and mix until lump-free. Set in the fridge for 10 to 15 minutes. In a standard muffin tin, pour ½ inch of roomtemperature oil into each muffin tin hole. Place tin in oven to heat until oil just begins to hit smoke point. Remove from oven and carefully ladle batter into to hot muffin tins until ¾ full. Immediately put tin back in oven to bake undisturbed for 20 to 25 minutes—until the puddings have puffed up and have browned nicely. Serve immediately alongside Sunday’s roast.

Christine Beard, executive baking and pastry chef

Tarte Tartin 1 round classic or quick puff pastry (pre-made from any grocery freezer section) 1 1/3 cups Granny Smith or other firm apple 1/5 cup unsalted butter, cubed 5/8 cup sugar Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut pastry into a circle just larger than the size of the baking pan. Using a fork, “dock,” or prick, the uncooked tart shell at 2-inch intervals—don’t forget the sides. Place in fridge. Peel, core and slice apples into wedges. Set aside for next step. Heat an oven-safe heavy skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add sugar to the dry pan and cook until it reaches a light caramel colour, stirring only occasionally to even out the cooking. Stir in butter cubes

until a homogeneous mixture forms. Remove from heat and arrange apples in caramel. Place prepared pastry dough on top of the apples within the skillet. Transfer tart to oven. Bake at 375°F until pastry browns on the sides, then reduce to 325°F for approximately 25 minutes. Total bake time should be approximately 40 to 45 minutes, depending on your oven. Allow tart to stand for 15 to 20 minutes. During this time, the apples will absorb the caramel. Wearing oven mitts, place a plate larger than the pan over the pastry. Place one hand on top of the plate and another underneath the pan. In one quick motion, flip upside down—but be cautious! Do this too soon and the caramel will still be liquid; wait too long and the tart will not release from the pan. Serve warm with your favourite vanilla ice cream. Makes one 9-inch tart.

westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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WLFOOD // chef tips tips

ALL THINGS EGGY

A simple egg dish isn’t always as easy as it seems, so we assembled an all-star cast to walk you through the process. Omelette Us Help YOU

For the perfect truffle omelette, combine 3 eggs, 1 tbsp of heavy cream, ¼ tsp black truffle paste, salt and pepper. Give the mixture a 10-second whisk with a fork. Pour into a scorching-hot black steel pan coated with 2 tbsp of clarified butter. Turn heat off and let sit until the top of the egg mixture is glistening. Then roll and fold. —Thomas Haas

Hard-BOiled perfectiOn

Start eggs in cold water then bring to a boil. Turn off heat, cover, and set timer for 8 to 12 minutes. Remove eggs, chill in cold water, and peel. —Darren Clay, Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts

easY, Over easY

Heat olive oil over medium heat. Crack egg into the hot oil. Once the bottom and edges are white, add 4 tbsp of water and cover with lid. Cook to desired consistency. —Christine Beard

perfect pOacH

Do not boil the water—simmer it. Add 2 tbsp of vinegar per 2 litres of water. Place a cracked egg in a small bowl and gently slip it into the simmering water. Simmer about 3 minutes or until the desired doneness. Remove egg with a slotted spoon, then drain on a paper towel before adding to the dish. —Colleen McClean

scramBle On

You want the pan to be at the appropriate temperature before adding the eggs. Canola oil and butter work the best. Olive oil is nice, but it has a lower smoke point and a stronger flavour that could overpower the eggs. A nice touch is to add 4 to 5 small chunks of cold butter to your scrambled egg mix. As the eggs cook, the butter melts and mixes with the eggs, giving a nice shine and flavour. Stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the eggs are almost cooked through. Remove from stove. The carry-over heat will cook the eggs the rest of the way without overcooking. If you overcook eggs, the proteins release their water content, resulting in a soupy end product. —Adam Perrier, Café Medina

Pro Tip Pro Tip Always bring eggs to room temperature before cooking. —Julian Bond

7 6 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

I always finish my scrambled eggs off with a bit of cream or freshly grated cheese. It always results in creamy, delicious and tender eggs. I especially like them served on freshly buttered toast. —Michael Allemeier, Southern Alberta Institute of Technology

tHe OUtlier

For perfectly soft-boiled quail eggs, start eggs in cold water and bring to a boil for exactly 2.5 seconds. Rinse under cold water and peel. Serve on salad or—my favourite— runny yolk with asparagus. —Julian Bond

Useless Tool Hall of fame

To o l s

SHARPEN UP

The Knives You Need and the Knives You Don’t

A handmade Misono. –Michael Allemeier My Wüsthof 8-inch classic Santoku and my new Wüsthof 5-inch Kitchen Surfer. I use them for everything, including things they aren’t meant for. Great balance and thickness. —Felix Zhou Porsche or most ceramic knives are the most useless. —David Gunawan, Farmer’s Apprentice Grapefruit knives are not necessary. —Simon Bouchard, Liquidity Bistro The Santoku is best by far, at least for the home cook. The most useless is a flexible boning knife. —Chris West, Homer Street Cafe

The Garlic Press In the many years since we’ve asked the West’s best chefs for their tips, there has been an overwhelming selection for the worst tool in the kitchen: the garlic press. The one-time staple of the kitchen drawer is a head-scratcher for most chefs. “It squeezes out all the useful flavours,” complains Karl Gregg of the Blueprint Group—a view shared by Au Comptoir’s Dan McGee: “I don’t understand the appeal.” On top of that, they’re brutal to clean. “Why not use your chef’s knife to crush and then mince from there?” says Gregg.

All-around best: Santoku. Most useless: flexible filleting knife. —Katsu Inoue, Pacific Institute of Culinary Arts The most useless is the serrated tomato knife. If you keep your knives sharp, you shouldn’t have to buy a specific knife for tomatoes. —Colleen McClean The best all-around knife is a 9-inch chef’s knife. The most useless one is a “mezzaluna,” which looks like a half moon with the two handles on either end. —Lee Cooper, L’Abbatoir

Miyabi Birchwood paring knife. I use it more than my chef’s knife. It’s very versatile and fits my hand well. —Adam Perrier

Tip

THE GREAT SUBSTITUTION HACK Cookbook authors Lindsay Anderson and Dana VanVeller spent the summer of 2013 traversing the country to suss out all that’s great in our home and native land. The result is the recently published Feast, and one of the key things they learned in developing the book was how to substitute common ingredients for ones that are tougher to source.

BLACK GARLIC Ô Toss the equivalent amount of roasted garlic with a balsamic reduction (1 tsp per head)

l ef Tov er H ac k

RED FIFE FLOUR Ô Swap for spelt or stone-ground whole wheat flour

STORE-BOUGHT PUFF PASTRY Add butter, sautéed onions, garlic and mushrooms to leftover beef, chicken or pork and encase in puff pastry. Brush with egg wash and bake. —Julian Bond

BIRCH SYRUP Ô Use a 1:1 mix of maple syrup and molasses

GOAT YOGURT Ô Use sour cream

WLFOOD // chef tips

To o l S

TeChnique

Buy This!

Get Cleaning

Breville BsB510xl Control Grip Hand Blender

One of the best low-cost tools many chefs love is the stick or immersion blender. A good stick blender is awesome. A great one can be found for around $100 and a serviceable one for half that. “You can use it for soups, dressings, smoothies, hummus . . . the list goes on,” says Colleen McClean of the Art Institute of Vancouver.

What’s the trick to cleaning baked-on grease and food? Returning the pot to the stove or oven and leaving it to soak over gentle heat with a few tablespoons of Sapadilla (made in Vancouver!) all-purpose or counter cleaner. Don’t let it boil and bubble. It even cleans hood-fan grease filters.

vitamix Blender

On the higher end of the scale is the beloved— but pricey—Vitamix. And while it’s tempting to buy a cheaper brand, most chefs caution against it. “Vitamix blenders are the best! Great for smoothies, soups, sauces and grinding grains. Very durable and versatile, and worth the money,” says Michael Allemeier of SAIT— a view supported by David Gunawan of Farmer’s Apprentice, Bobby Milheron of Boulevard and Josh Gale of Juniper.

—Felix Zhou

A dryer sheet! Add hot water and dish soap to your pan or pot. Pop in a dryer sheet and let soak before easily scrubbing away stuck-on grease or food. —Julian Bond

Should you Spend $1,00 on ThiS CharCoal BarBeCue?

7 8 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

The best way to butcher meat or fish is to put down a layer of cling film on your work surface and peel it off when done for a much quicker cleanup. —Lee Cooper

Magic Erasers!

—Christine Beard, Tobias MacDonald Chef Angus An

To clean a dirty oven, make a paste with baking soda and water and spread it in. Let it sit overnight. The next day, wipe off the paste as much as you can with a wet rag. Spray with white vinegar and finish wiping it out. Easy and natural. —Simon Bouchard

Angus An: Andrew Querner

A classic Weber charcoal grill is $150, so why do so many chefs (like Jason Sussman from Tacofino and Tobias MacDonald from Vancouver Community College) rave about the $1,000 Japanese-style Kamado cooker known as the Big Green Egg? For starters, you can use it to grill or smoke, or use it just like a regular oven—and it’s ceramic, so it’s far more efficient and durable than steel. “People spend over $10,000 on their stoves or over $3,000 on a gas barbecue. I personally have had many barbecue units in my life. None have I used as much as the Green Egg. None have I enjoyed as much as the Green Egg. I think it’s the best investment a foodie or chef can make for their backyard,” says Angus An of Maenam, who features his Big Green Egg a lot on his Instagram feed.

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THE ONLY THING NICER THAN GOING TO THE BEACH IS RETURNING TO IT.

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TRAVEL

T H E W E S T // W O R L D W I D E // W E E K E N D G E T AWA Y S // N E I G H B O U R H O O D S // R O A D T R I P S

A Bay of One’s Own

Forest & Kim Starr

Many Hawaii devotees are well acquainted with the spectacular sunsets, bathwater-warm swimming and aquarium-calibre snorkelling that make the place so darn attractive. A visit to Lanai has all those things but offers them up far from the madding crowd. Forget the early morning saving of a lounge chair or searching for a patch of sand to sprawl out on—there’s only 3,000 residents and fewer than 250 hotel rooms over 365 square kilometres. You’ll find a place to call your own without breaking a sweat.

Bay Watch The low slung Four Seasons Lanai and its private beach.

westernliving.ca / A p r i l

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WLTRAVEL // 48 hours in los angeles

LA LA LOVE YOU

Worldwide fave La La Land is a love letter to Los Angeles—and after a weekend scoping out cool architecture and amazing meals, it’s not hard to see why everybody’s crushing on this charmer of a city. FRIDAY

It’s appropriate that the Redbury Hotel has a moody rock-and-roll vibe, given that it’s located in the shadow of the iconic Capitol Records tower. The boutique suites are decked out with blood-red wallpaper, heavy drapery, vintage artwork and your own personal record players, but the bohemian touches are paired with plenty of luxurious ones, too (think rainfall showerheads and modern Bertoia wire stools). Drop your bags and stretch your legs with a walk to Barnsdall Art Park, a pretty pocket of green space that also happens to be home to Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic Hollyhock House. If you’re feeling inspired by the architecture (or the exhibit of local artists at the Los Angeles Municipal Art Gallery next door), stick around for a workshop at the park’s Art Center, which has been providing classes in ceramics, book making and painting since 1946. 8 2 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Down the street, catch a set at the Upright Citizens Brigade’s Franklin theatre. Though the idea of watching amateur comedians at work might make some cringe, the comedy school co-founded by Amy Poehler turns out such high-calibre improvisers that student and alumni shows (which will often feature special drop-in celebrity guests) consistently sell out. But be back at the hotel in time for dinner, because lobby resto Cleo offers stellar mezes in addition to a convenient commute to your room. Avoid the temptation to fill up on the standout house-made laffa bread (even better when dipped in carrot harissa) and share orders of fresh tomato and burrata salad, chicken tagine with preserved lemon, and saffron rice. For dessert, though, venture down the block to the Pie Hole for a slice of Earl Grey Tea or Mexican Chocolate pie—the sweetest nightcap in town.

SATURDAY

Start the day off in true L.A. fashion by hitting up trendy Juice Crafters for an acai bowl— essentially a deconstructed smoothie packed with superfood ingredients like guarana and goji berries. It’ll be good fuel for your morning workout at Prevail Boxing studio. The boutique gym—a fave fitness spot for models—is Instagram bait, with a feature wall decked out in inspirational sayings (“Never, never, never give up!”) and a neon “SWEAT BOX SCULPT” display behind the front desk. It also happens to offer a killer workout, combining circuit training with classic boxing moves.

City of Dreams

The Griffith Park Observatory (top left) had a supporting role in La La Land and the modern collection at the Broad (top middle) has star power of its own. Reward yourself with Earl Grey pie from the Pie Hole (inset, left) before crashing for the night at the swank Redbury Hotel (top right).

B y s ta c e y m c l a c h l a n

If it’s not booked for a red-carpet premiere, the Fox Theater is the ideal place to indulge in a perfect movie night.

Salmon carpaccio is served with blood orange and white ponzu; spaghetti is tossed with king crab, Santa Barbara uni and saffron; tater tots are paired with truffle Parmesan. The seasonal cocktail list gets seriously experimental, too: try the wild and wonderful Lil Ricky, which mixes tequila with kumquat and cinnamon.

The Broad: Priscilla Mars; Alcove: Eugene Lee; Paley: Dylan and Jeni

SUNDAY

Reward your now-tender muscles with lunch at Republique—Jay-Z recently booked out the airy, rustic room for his birthday party, so rest assured that the comfort-foodgone-chic menu is bold-name celeb approved. Try the shakshouka, served up in a personal cast iron skillet and loaded with beautifully seasoned stewed tomatoes, farm-fresh eggs, yogurt and mint. Spend your afternoon exploring Griffith Park. The views of the Hollywood Hills (at least in low-smog conditions) are stunning, and the art deco masterpiece that is the Griffith Observatory is gorgeous inside and out. The building—which played a starring role in both Rebel Without a Cause and, more recently, La La Land—isn’t the only element of the park that’s graced the silver screen: grab a copy of Hollywood Escapes for a self-guided tour of film locations that are scattered throughout the park.

If it’s not booked for a red-carpet premiere, the Fox Theater is the ideal place to indulge in a perfect movie night after your hike. Built in the 1930s, the Spanish Mission-meets-Art Deco tower is full of retro design surprises (a flashing neon sign outside, Gold Rush murals in the lobby) but plays Hollywood’s latest in the audiophile-approved screening room—a definite step up from your local multiplex. Paley is located in Columbia Square, home of the original CBS studio, and takes its name from the broadcasting company’s original CEO, William S. Paley. But though it nods to history, the menu is thoroughly modern.

Riot Squad

The famed Upright Citizens Brigade (bottom left) is the launching pad for comics, whereas Frank Lloyd Wright’s Hollyhock House (bottom middle) is a more sombre affair. The Paley (bottom right) is both fun and serious.

Try to snag a table on the patio at Alcove to soak up some California sun as you tackle oversized platters of crepes stuffed with peaches and espresso-infused whipped cream or chilaquiles rojos smothered in spicy salsa. You’ll need the fuel to tackle downtown L.A. First stop? The Rock ’n’ Roll Flea Market, a charming mix of music memorabilia, vintage tees and artisanal eccentricities (like jam from a punk rock drummer turned marmalade entrepreneur) that overtakes the Regent Theater the first Sunday of every month. Then, it’s off to the Broad. Take a lap around the Diller Scofidio and Renfrodesigned building to admire the modern architecture before exploring the 2,000-plus pieces of Eli and Edye Broad’s contemporary art collection, including iconic works from Jasper Johns, Cindy Sherman and Jeff Koons. Make sure to book a time slot for your turn to explore the Infinity Mirrored Room, an optical illusion designed by Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama, filled with twinkling lights and a peek into the abyss. Wind your way through the stalls of Grand Central Market in search of your last L.A. meal. Between trendy brunch counters (Eggslut), crispy wood-fired pizza (Olio GCM) and organic Thai comfort food (Sticky Rice), it’s going to be a tough choice, but we recommend a classic: snag a spot at the counter of Sarita’s Pupuseria, where you’ll get a gooey, cheesy handmade pupusa based on Salvadoran family recipes for under $5. westernliving.ca / a p r i l

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WLTRAVEL // lanai

Utopia Redux

Billionaire Larry Ellison is reimagining the exotic island of Lanai—but does this paradise need improving? by neal mclennan

Solo View Manele Bay at sunset is special enough, but when you experience it sans crowds, that’s when it’s superlative.

“Y

ou really should go see a movie” is an odd thing to say to someone on a tropical vacation, especially when that vacation is on Lanai. After all, this is the jewel in Hawaii’s crown, a tiny postage stamp of perfection with only 3,000 people that’s spread out over 365 idyllic square kilometres. So when a third resident echoes this to me while I am enjoying one of Lanai’s spectacular beaches solo (this is a private island), I have to wonder why on earth anyone in their right mind would choose a darkened movie theatre over the picturesque spoils of this land. “We’ve got the best movie theatre in all the state right here, man,” says the local. “Stateof-the-art surround sound, reclining seats—and it’s cheap. All thanks to Uncle Larry.” Uncle Larry is Larry Ellison, the billionaire founder of the software firm Oracle who, in 2012, famously purchased 98 percent of the island, with the stated goal of turning it into one of the most environmentally sensitive destinations in the world. I had been to Lanai before, several years ago, and even before Ellison purchased it, it was a legendary destination

WLTRAVEL // lanai

for Hawaii-goers. Oahu and Maui were the usual spring-break suspects for West Coast-ers, Kauai for the slightly more intrepid— but still also within the purview of said spring-breakers. Lanai’s cult status stemmed from the fact that it was almost impossible to stay here unless you could afford the Four Seasons. The island’s sole accommodation (save for 11 rooms at the quaint circa-1923 Hotel Lana’i) comprised the Four Seasons’ two sites—the oceanfront Manele Bay and the smaller Lodge at Koele—so if you weren’t comfortable forking over the equivalent of a down payment on a condo for a room, you were essentially shut out of the Lanai experience. But then Ellison stepped in—to make it more upscale. My initial thought (shared by more than a few, I imagine): who wants to improve perfection? But nostalgia can be a funny thing, a sentiment I realize as soon as I step into the lobby of the redone Manele Bay. My first impression, despite my previous visit, is that I’m in a hotel I’ve never been to before—the drive from the marina seemed familiar enough, and I definitely recall pulling into a long winding driveway, but in my memory the hotel was a formal affair, ample marble punctuated by garish 8 6 A p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

swaths of aqua and pink, as if A Flock of Seagulls had a hand in the design. But standing in a large open-air lobby that’s equal parts dark wood and unencumbered vistas, I feel like we’re way past “a new coat of paint and new mattresses” territory. It’s only as I make my way to my room and glimpse a view of Hulopoe Beach that I begin to reorient myself. The old hotel always felt as if it were taller than its four storeys, whereas now, even as I glide down a flight of stairs, the new place feels like I’m in the world’s largest Frank Lloyd Wright Prairiestyle bungalow. I drop my stuff into a ridiculously large room (and this time it isn’t just in my mind, as I later find out: the number of rooms has actually decreased and the ones that are left are noticeably bigger), and as I plan my next steps I have a welcome sense of déjà vu. Planning your day at Lanai has little in common with a stay at any other island on Hawaii, where even the most luxe properties require you to schedule things like golfing or car rentals. Here, I pick up the phone and say I’d like to go golfing, and voilà, I’m in a buggy heading to the pro shop, and it turns out I have the course to myself. I ask the pro if it’s all right if I start on

Road: Palawi Basin; Jeep: Don Riddle

This is not divas-slinkingaround-in high-heels-and lace-cover-ups territory—for the most part, it’s flip-flop city.

Channel Surfing Molokai lies just off Lanai's northern tip, but frequent high winds make for a choppy crossing.

Oahu Molokai

Maui

Hidden Gem From Lanai you can see the lights of Kapalua Resort just a few miles away. Hawaii

Golf course: Hawaii Tourism Japan; room: Barbara Kraft

All by Myself Snapshots from a day of solo exploring, from far left: the inviting stretch of highway that allegedly snagged a speeding David Ellison; exploring the Mars doppelgänger that is Garden of the Gods by 4x4; a world-class golf course with no one to share it with; and the new rooms, expanded and redone by famed designer ToddAvery Lenahan.

the ocean-hugging back nine, and while his mouth says a very polite “Of course, sir,” his eyes give me a look that says, “Dude, you can play in your underwear using a hockey stick for a club, for all I care—you’re the only one here.” Thankfully, my greatest fear—that I’ll shoot the round of my life and no one will witness it—is avoided, though hacking the ball all over hell and creation does give me insight into another aspect of the average Lanai golfer—unlike me, they don’t search for balls they’ve hit out of bounds. By the end of nine holes, I’ve found so many balls that I’m of half a mind to set up a links-side sales stand—until I remember that, for today at least, I’m the only customer here. After my round, I make the easy stroll down to the beach, and as I nod at whom I pass, I marvel at the irony that the higher up the food chain you go, the more relaxed things become. I’m a collegial enough sort, but I’ve never exchanged pleasantries with strangers anywhere else in Hawaii, like Waikiki, partly because that’s a lot of hellos, but more so because it’s simply not done. Here on Lanai, the isolation brings a sort of band of brothers repartee, if only because it quickly becomes clear you’ll be running into the same cast of characters

throughout your stay, so you might as well be friendly. The beach at Manele is not dissimilar to many other Hawaiian beaches—it’s much better than most for snorkelling, much worse for surfing—but the key is that you have it to yourself. You find a patch of sand you like, you attempt to throw down your towel, and an ever-present staff member bolts across the sand to try to do it for you. If you want to snorkel, you go to the shack and they set you up: no resort fee, no egregious rental fee, just a “here you go, have fun” as if you were staying at a wealthy uncle’s house. If your uncle were Uncle Larry. But trying to get a glimpse of what Uncle Larry has done to the island from the perch of a deck chair with a chilled skewer of pineapple is hardly Woodward and Bernstein territory, so the next morning I rent a Jeep and head into Lanai City. Driving on Lanai is a bit of a mind trip—there are no stoplights and, thanks to Ellison’s infrastructure spending, the roads are pristine and rarely used—though the police (all recent graduates from the Maui Academy) are relentless with speeding tickets nonetheless. Legend holds that one unfortunate flatfoot snared a certain David Ellison (son of Uncle Larry) in such a trap, proceeded westernliving.ca / A p r i l

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WLTRAVEL // lanai

with the ticket and quickly found himself transferred off the island. My trip holds no such surprises, though as I near town I do spot several prominent NO WINDMILLS ON LANAI signs—in reference to Uncle Larry’s plan to dot portions of the landscape with green-energyproducing turbines. But once in town, no one wants to talk about turbines—they all want to talk about the movie theatre. The town itself is the most charming example of a company town you’re likely to find. Built by the Dole Corporation in the 1920s, it is arranged around a huge park, like a mini-Manhattan but with Norfolk pines and hardly any people. But other than the movie theatre, it’s exactly as I remember it—especially the famed Blue Ginger restaurant, where an egg salad sandwich is still $4 and locals and the occasional Four Seasons refugee mingle on a series of salvaged chairs. After lunch I head off the paved roads—there are over 400 miles of unpaved road on the island and about the same number of cars that you’d find in the average Safeway parking lot—and it’s only then I remember the one thing that no other place can match Lanai for: unspoiled space. Miles and miles of it, just as on my last visit. I drive by the former Lodge at Koele, eerie in its quietness—it’s still under renovation, with no particular end in sight—and continue down to Shipwreck Beach, where I brave whipping trade winds to catch a glimpse of the WWII-era container ship, wrecked and rusting on a reef just offshore, even more eerie in its quietness. But for the most part, I just tool around with no plan, because I don’t need one. I reward myself for a very lacklustre day of sleuthing with dinner at Nobu Lanai: two words that seem about as compatible as "President 8 8 A p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Trump." Weirdly, here I do need a reservation, but as I pop in, it seems that courtesy is mostly for the sake of the kitchen, as the starkly beautiful room is far from full. Nobu is one of Lanai’s flashier new additions, and the level of precision paired with the freshness of the sushi evokes a brief hit of envy over how this island, with its abundant physical gifts, also gets to have a restaurant this good. But there are worse things than having to put up with an embarrassment of riches. In the past, once you’d rented a Jeep and seen the town, you’d essentially exhausted all the non-beach and -golf activities on Lanai, but one gets the impression that the peripatetic Ellison, who, in addition to being the founder of Oracle, also flies fighter jets and runs the champion America’s Cup crew, wanted more things to do for his guests. I go trap shooting at a new course that is the Nobu of sporting clays, but I just as easily could have gone horseback riding or visited a flight training centre, where I’m told I could “learn to perform basic flight manoeuvres, such as takeoff, cruising and landing.” When you have the ability to pay $550,000,000 for an island, I think your understanding of the word “basic” is slightly elevated, but I’m tickled that becoming a pilot is an option. I never do see a movie—Tom Hanks in Inferno is showing—because in what seems like a blink I’m back on a ferry headed to Maui. Soon I’ll be dealing with stoplights, lineups and reservations, and the option of flying an airplane will cease to be a reality. But I know that a place that has all those things exists, and while I can’t say whether the presence of Uncle Larry is good for Lanai, I can attest that I’m willing to drop anything, any day of the year, to go back and keep trying to find out.

Manele Bay: Dana Edmunds; road & shipwreck: Hawaii Tourism Authority, Pierce M. Myers Photography

Lost Coastlines With only 3,000 residents, finding an abandoned beach in Lanai is not that much of a problem, nor, for that matter, is finding an abandoned highway or even an abandoned WWII-era transport ship.

DESIGNERS OF THE YEAR 2017

a n n i v er sa ry

Celebrating the best new design in Western Canada, as judged by the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s foremost designers and architects including: Todd Saunders, Saunders Architecture Jonathan Adler, Ceramicist and Designer Stephanie Forsythe, Molo Paolo Cravedi, Alessi Douglas Cridland, Cridland Associates Dan & Dean Caten, Dsquared2 Robert Bailey, Robert Bailey Interiors Scott Cooper, Crate & Barrel Michael Green, Michael Green Architecture Barbara Atkin, Fashion Visionary Michael Budman & Don Green, Roots Canada Shauna Levy, Design Exchange Geoff Lilge, On Our Table Kelty McKinnon, PFS Studio Brent Comber, Brent Comber Originals Michael Shugarman, Shugarman Architecture Thom Fougere, EQ3 Nancy Pollock-Ellwand, University of Calgary

September 2017 Details at designersoftheyear.ca

The Look

ZEN DINING NOOK Create an oasis in a busy home with a canopy-covered dining space. 9 0 a p r i l 2 0 1 7 / westernliving.ca

Allison Holden-Pope, One Seed Architecture and Interiors

A Japanese-inspired wood screen custom-built by Vertical Grain provides structural support for a salvaged-lumber floating staircase, but it also acts as a grounding element for the main floor of this renovated Vancouver Special: Douglas fir beams reach up the wall and form a canopy above the table, creating a cozy space (with a matching built-in bench) for the family to gather come dinnertime. See the rest of this spectacular Allison Holden-Popeâ&#x20AC;&#x201C; designed home as part of the Vancouver Special House Tour on Saturday, April 22, hosted by the Vancouver Heritage Foundation. More info at vancouverheritagefoundation.org.

Martin Knowles

WL // trade secrets