AT THE TABLE

beaucoup Merci French-inspired Thanksgiving with Chef Scott Crawford

by IZA WOJCIECHOWSKA photography by KEITH ISAACS

Scott Crawford is a family man. Two years ago, when the five-star chef and fivetime James Beard Award semifinalist opened his own restaurant, Crawford and Son, family was at the forefront of his mind—in the restaurant’s name, his family’s involvement, and the ambience of the neighborhood spot. Now, his family business is expanding with a new French bistro right next door. The bistro, slated for a spring 2019 opening, is named Jolie, after Crawford’s 8-year-old daughter. “Jolie was young when we decided to name Crawford and Son, and that happened because of a tradition in my family of entrepreneurship and the Crawford name being on businesses,” Crawford says. “But it wasn’t long after that that she started to question how she came into this thing. And I told her I had a plan, and I did.” Jolie will be a classic French bistro— bustling, vibrant, friendly, and cozy— and will offer a modern twist on traditional flavors. The main space will seat approximately 30 at tables and six at the bar and have an open kitchen. Big windows will allow lots of light, and marble tabletops, characteristic French paneling, and white-painted brick will make the space feel bright and inviting—a marked contrast from the dark-brick, heavy-wood, masculine feel of Crawford and Son. A pergola-covered, heated rooftop will seat an additional 20 and be open year-round, recreating the setting of French outdoor dining spilling out onto the sidewalks of quaint Parisian streets. The driving forces behind Jolie are happiness and simplicity. “When [diners] walk in and they look at the menu, and they see the design and they feel the vibe, I want them to be instantly happy,” Crawford says. “Nothing about the dining experience will be complicated. You could be on this rooftop, in a little neighborhood, having great steak frites and a duck pie—so you feel like there’s something special about it, but it’s not complicated.” It was always Crawford’s vision to bring a French neighborhood bistro to Raleigh, but the catalyst was a trip he and his family took to Paris last year. They ate at local spots for inspiration, and Jolie fell in love with the city.

Chef Scott Crawford will open his French bistro, Jolie, in Spring of 2019 adjacent to Crawford and Son in downtown Raleigh.

“I’ve never seen one of my children connect with the people, the culture, the energy, the pastries, the food, everything like that. She cried when she had to leave Paris. She wanted to live there forever,” Crawford says. His daughter’s newfound Francophilia, his family tradition, and the definition of “jolie” (which means “pretty” in French) all coalesced and made perfect sense. There was no question in his mind about what the restaurant’s name would be. And his daughter loves it.

Classic flavors with a modern flair

To hear Crawford read the preliminary menu he’s concocted for Jolie is like listening to him read poetry, the French terms rolling off the tongue, the way he relishes each word as he lists the ingredients of an appetizer (“escargot with Robuchon-style potato butter, and pea stew, and crispy garlic”). It’s clear that he can’t wait to bring these old French dishes to life with what he calls “a new-school presentation.” Other classics one can expect to see at Jolie are seafood stews in tomato-ham broth (“with a nice piece of baguette, just slightly buttered and toasted, for dipping in the broth,” Crawford envisions); “the best onion soup ever”; braised leeks with dijon butter, capers, and tarragon; bone marrow gratin; charcuterie plates with French hams, rillette, and chicken liver pate; rabbit cassoulet; pork cheeks with lentils and celery root; steak frites; and a traditional duck pie. Desserts will include seasonal fruit tarts; chocolate bread pudding with Valrhona chocolate and salted pecan caramel; and, of course, cheese. The bistro will also feature a rotating all-French beer and wine list.

It’s clear that he can’t wait to bring these old French dishes to life with what he calls “a new-school presentation.”

“I hope that we land on that middle ground between old school and new school, classic and modern,” Crawford says. “Right there in the middle is that sweet spot, that little modern edge that makes it exciting, but that classic feel that gives the feeling of nostalgia and feels familiar and comforting.” Crawford was classically trained in the French cooking tradition and worked at a French bistro right after leaving culinary school. In his work throughout the years, classical French cooking has always felt second nature, he says, even when he moved toward more American cuisines. “Every once in a while, you would see in my dishes maybe just a nod to that classic technique—even now, still. But now [at Jolie], we’re revisiting that. It’s so much fun. It’s also fun to introduce people to these dishes, who have never really geeked out on French food or experienced it.”

All in the family

Crawford’s devotion to running a family business goes beyond just his restaurants’ names. When he decided to start the Crawford Hospitality Group two years ago, every member of the family was involved in the discussions. “We made the decision as a family. My wife works with me here [at Crawford and Son]. We raise our kids here. We run it together. It’s a true family business,” he says. Crawford’s wife, Jessica, does the restaurants’ accounting, in-house photography, and marketing. Their son, Jiles, 11, washes dishes at Crawford and Son on Saturdays to learn work ethic, and Jolie has already expressed that she wants to work at Jolie. Though he expects both his kids to go to college, Crawford is eager for them to help out at his restaurants as much as possible to learn about the industry, hard work, and customer service, echoing the way he himself learned hospitality as a kid, working at his grandfather’s sawmill with his older brother. For Crawford, continuing this tradition is what it’s all about. “It only makes sense to me to name my businesses directly connected with my family,” he says. “Every other name that we’ve thought of has just felt contrived. And I want my restaurants to be around for a long time. I don’t want them to feel trendy.” Crawford also recently announced he’ll be continuing the family tradition with a third restaurant, the Crawford Brothers steakhouse, which will go into the Fenton development in Cary. But for now, his focus remains on Jolie and on making sure that his two restaurants serve their neighborhood well. “If you’ve been to Paris—or New York or anywhere, really—and enjoyed a real French bistro experience, then you’ll feel right at home when you walk into Jolie,” he says. But even if you haven’t, sliding into this little slice of Paris on the corner, bright and vibrant, ordering a bottle of French red wine and a beautiful cheese plate is all a rather jolie prospect, non?

Chestnut soup with brown butter, topped with herbs and crispy parsnips.

Jolie’s Thanksgiving Menu

Chestnut soup with spiced brown butter

Warm salad of brussels sprouts with bacon & apples Maple roasted pheasant Root vegetables with savory granola Mushroom bread pudding Pumpkin tarte tatin with cinnamon-creme fraiche ice cream

Mushroom Bread Pudding

6 cups day old bread, diced large 1 quart heavy cream + 1/2 cup 4 whole eggs 4 egg yolks 3 cups sliced mushrooms (crimini, maitake, wood ear, portobella etc.) 1 tablespoon shallot, peeled and sliced thin 1/4 bottle of marsala 2 tablespoon freshly sliced chives 2 tablespoons butter 3 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves (can substitute dry thyme)

Pre-heat oven to 300 degrees. In a medium saute pan, melt 1 tablespoon butter, add shallot and mushrooms. Season with salt and black pepper, saute until soft. Remove half of the mushrooms and set aside. Leave the other half of the mushrooms in the pan and add the marsala. Reduce marsala by half and add 1/2 cup heavy cream. Reduce heavy cream to a sauce consistency, whisk in remaining tablespoon butter. Remove from heat and allow to cool slightly. Season with salt and black pepper to taste, add 1 tablespoon thyme leaves. Cover and set aside keeping warm. In a large mixing bowl, add eggs, egg yolks, and 1 quart heavy cream, beat until smooth. Add bread, remaining thyme leaves and remaining mushrooms. Season liberally with salt and black pepper to taste. Allow to sit for 10 minutes. In a greased 2-quart casserole pan, add bread pudding mixture and place in the oven uncovered. Bake at 300 degrees for approximately 30 minutes or until center feels slightly firm to the touch. Check with a cake tester before removing. Spoon bread pudding onto plate and top with mushroom marsala sauce and fresh sliced chives. Serves eight

Scott Crawford’s Warm Brussels Sprout salad with Honeycrisp apples and bacon. Recipe below

“If you’ve been to Paris—or New York or anywhere, really— and enjoyed a real French bistro experience, then you’ll feel right at home when you walk into Jolie,” he says.

Warm Brussels Sprout Salad

2 lbs fresh brussels sprouts, leaves separated 1 lb of bacon, medium diced 1/4 cup sherry vinegar 1 teaspoon dijon mustard 1 tablespoon maple syrup 1/2 cup vegetable oil 2 medium Honeycrisp apples medium dice 1 tablespoon sliced fresh chives 1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced salt and fresh black pepper to taste 1 head frisee—white part only In a small saute pan over medium heat render bacon until brown and semi-crispy. Remove bacon from the pan and drain on a paper towel. Strain rendered bacon fat through a fine sieve. Set aside. In a blender on low speed add sherry vinegar, dijon and maple syrup. Slowly add the bacon fat and vegetable oil until emulsified. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Set dressing aside. Place the sautee pan back over medium heat. Add apples, brussels sprout leaves, shallot and rendered bacon. Saute until warm but still crunchy. Add frisee, chives and enough dressing to coat the salad. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Serve warm. Serves eight