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SOMETHING SPECIAL A community bakery on the edge of downtown by ILINA EWEN photography by EAMON QUEENEY
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t’s the promise of flaky, layers of pastry, glistening with butter, that draws you in. But while the signature croissants may be the lure, it’s tough to choose among the array of sweet and savory options you’ll find inside Union Special Bread. Peach hand pies, snickerdoodles, tomato jam tart, kouign amann… these are just
a sampling of the ever-changing selection. The lemon poppyseed coffee cake goes quickly, so snatch it when you see it. The humble egg sandwich—an egg, hash browns and romesco sauce nestled inside a fluffy bun—is messy, savory and decidedly addictive, destined to be a cult favorite. On a recent Saturday, the cafe and bake shop served up more than 200
in twelve hours, a veritable egg sandwich factory. Pastry chef and owner Andrew Ullom describes his latest endeavor in the newly revitalized Gateway Plaza as a “community bakery on the edge of downtown.” Union Special’s roots are grounded in the history, nostalgia and work ethic of factory life that define NOVEMBER 2019 | 59
