World Heritage

Villa de Leyva

Colombia’s Villa de Leyva is a mass of Spanish colonial styles and revolutionary zeal, but its history dates back to long before Homo sapiens set foot here, finds George Kipouros

Less than a three-hour drive from Colombia’s capital, Bogotá, lies one of the country’s most quaint and engaging historic towns. Although still not well known to international audiences, Villa de Santa María de Leyva, as the town is formally known, was declared a Colombian national monument as early as 1954. This resulted in a large part of its historical centre, much of it dating back to the town’s founding by Spain in 1572, surviving in pristine condition. Even the newly built parts reflect this Spanish colonial legacy, with the local architecture adhering mostly to two-storey townhouses lined with wooden balconies and wrapping square internal courtyards.

Plaza Mayor is the town’s focal point and, at over 14,000 sqm, one of the largest public squares in South America. This pedestrianised area has an 18th-century fountain at its centre, with the 17th-century Parish Church of Our Lady of the Rosary found on the northern side. A constant beehive of activity follows the many restaurants, bars and shops that flank its edges, but its crown jewel is the ornately decorated Town Hall, which is open to the public – its courtyard is also a fine example of 17th-century Spanish colonial architecture. Villa de Leyva played a pivotal role during Colombia’s struggle for independence, and many of its historic houses are associated with heroic national figures, including the Casa

George Kipouros

NEED TO KNOW

Location: Villa de Leyva lies 165km from Bogotá – a drive that can take up to three hours (or more during the weekend exodus of Bogatanos). The nearest international airport is Bogotá’s El Dorado. Regular buses and minibuses connect it to different points in the capital. It is better that you plan to stay overnight at Villa de Leyva; day trips from Bogotá make for a very long day and you’ll miss the magical night skies the town is famous for. If you can, visit during one of the many festivals. Getting around: The town’s cobblestone streets are walkable and mostly pedestrianised. Taxis are available and are reasonably priced to take you to out-of-town locations like Monquirá archaeological park and the palaeontological and fossil museums. Accommodation: There are more than a hundred hotels, guest houses and hostels in town, but the majority cater for Colombian guests, with English still not widely spoken. Friendly hotel owners can often arrange behind-the-scenes city tours. We recommend a stay at the Hotel Casa Terra (hotelcasaterra.com), which has doubles from £80 per night. Further information: The colombia.travel/en/villa-de-leyva site includes a list of festivals and events.

Museo Antonio Nariño and the Casa Museo Capitán Antonio Ricaurte. Both capture a glimpse of life within Colombian high society during the late-18th and early-19th centuries. The town also features a large number of museums for its size. We recommend the Museo del Carmen and its collection of religious art; the Museo Luis Alberto Acuña, celebrating the Colombian artist’s legacy; and the famed museum of palaeontology, which lies a little further out.

Indeed, the area around Villa de Leyva has a rich palaeontological heritage, with fossils found in such abundance that they decorate many town buildings and pavements. In addition to the Museo Paleontológico, those interested in a glimpse of the region’s Mesozoic era should visit the Museo El Fósil. Founded in 1977, it houses the most complete pliosaur fossil ever found, plus examples of well-preserved Cretaceous-period fauna and flora.

Just a fifteen-minute drive out of town is one of Colombia’s most ancient sites. Monquirá archaeological park, also known as ‘El Infiernito’, has 30 phallic megaliths that have been carbon-dated to 200 BC; these sit alongside 100 smaller columns that scatter the site. While its true purpose remains frustratingly enigmatic, the two

“Some 30 phallic megaliths scatter most pertinent theories suggest that it was either a cult site celebrating fertility or an astronomical observatory. the site of Monquirá A visit to Monquirá archaeological park archaeological park” can be combined with a side trip to the nearby Convento del Santo Ecce Homo, an important 17th-century Dominican-order monastery. Its architecture displays one of the finest examples of Mudéjar art in what was formerly ‘New Granada’. The monastery’s gardens also, surprisingly, feature one of the phallic megaliths transported from nearby Monquirá, combining the many layers of history found in Villa de Leyva.

A timeless town

(clockwise from far left) The huge Plaza Mayor forms the historical heart of Villa de Leyva; the town is riddled with cobbled shopping streets worth exploring; this is one example among many of Villa de Leyva’s rich prehistoric heritage – a visit to the fossil museum is a good way to understand the finds that you come across; a phallic stone, transported from Monquirá, stands in the garden of the Convento del Santo Ecce Homo