British Break

DAY ONE

Your break begins the moment you step onto the Friday-morning Scillonian ferry. Grab brunch onboard, scour the ocean for sea life and take in the first views of the islands and their striking granite rock formations. After checking into St Mary’s hilltop Star Castle Hotel (see below), stroll Hugh Town, exploring its galleries, gift shops and beaches. In the early afternoon, depart on a smaller boat for sleepy St Martin’s island and head to the bohemian Little Arthur Farm (littlearthur.co.uk) for afternoon tea and a bird’s-eye view of the bay. Climb to the stone cottages of Higher Town before crossing the island to Lower Town via near-empty lanes that drop away to Caribbean-blue waters and rocky ‘ledge’ islets. Bear in mind that timings depend on the tides, so plan accordingly. Back on St Mary’s, enjoy fresh seafood at the Mermaid Inn (mermaidscilly.co.uk) in the harbour, then spend the evening watching the racing of the gigs (six-oared rowing boats; pictured top). These events run twice-weekly throughout the summer, and the best views are found aboard the St Mary’s spectator boat that follows the gigs, so you can noisily cheer on your team as they go.

Getting there: Take the Night Riviera Sleeper train (£25.50–£135 one way; prices depend on sleeper class; gwr.com) from London Paddington to Penzance, then hop on the Scillonian ferry to St Mary’s (£65.95 one way) for the ultimate in ‘slow travel’. If you’re short on time, you can also fly. One-way flights with Skybus (islesofscillytravel.co.uk) to St Mary’s go from Land’s End (£105), Newquay (£147) and Exeter (£203), taking 20, 30 and 60 minutes respectively. Stay at: Star Castle Hotel (star-castle.co.uk; pictured right) on St Mary’s is a 16th-century fort that was turned into a four-star stay. It gets its name from the eight-pointed star configuration of its walls, and visitors can choose from 38 castle rooms, guardrooms, garden rooms and suites with views over the sea, gardens or veranda. The defensive castle may appear austere from the outside, but inside it’s soft and welcoming. Grounds include subtropical gardens and a pool, plus there’s also complimentary golf. Doubles from £418 (all inclusive).

DAY TWO

Get the first boat of the morning to Tresco, the upmarket island. If you land at New Grimsby Quay, walk the coastal path to Cromwell’s Castle (pictured top), built in 1651 after the defeat of the Scillonian Royalists. Climb to the top of the defence (free entry) and enjoy views of the anchorage that sits on the narrows between Tresco and Bryher. A short climb leads you to the ruins of King Charles’ Castle, an artillery fortress built during the reign of Edward VI – the name ‘Charles’ refers to the Royalists who occupied it before their defeat. Cross the heathland to Old Grimsby and the Ruin Beach Café (tresco. co.uk/eating/ruin-cafe). Next, climb to the Old Blockhouse, another Edward VI fortification that was built to keep the French at arm’s length. Amble the beaches of Pentle Bay searching for shells – periwinkles, whelks and, if you’re lucky, much-prized cowries – then cross the wetlands to Tresco Abbey to meander its 19th-century subtropical gardens, strolling hidden pathways and ruins and grabbing lunch in the tearoom. Take the mid-afternoon boat back to St Mary’s (check the departure point) in time for your evening sail on the Scillonian back to Penzance.

4 TOP THINGS TO DO

SHOP in the independent stores of Hugh Town on St Mary’s. Slip into Silver Street Gallery for local art, peruse the beach-chic IoS-branded clothing of 49 Degrees and search for island mementos in Stone Shop and Tideline. When you’re all shopped out, grab a takeaway coffee and head for one of Hugh Town’s three nearby beaches.

EAT between the tumbledown walls of the Ruin Beach Café gardens and soak in views of Raven’s Porth beach and the anchorage of Old Grimsby Harbour. From its wood-burning oven arrive plates of wood-fired pizzas and the smoky flavours of succulent meat, fish and vegetable platters.

RAMBLE the coastal paths of Tresco. Highlights on the west side include views over Appletree Bay and Bryher from the castle defences. Gentler rambles on the east side take in coastal woodlands, ponds and wetlands around Tresco Abbey. For a leisurely bimble, walk the alabaster beaches of Pentle Bay, combining your stroll with a spot of beachcombing.

DRINK at Karma (karmagroup.com) on St Martin’s, a holistic spa hotel in Lower Town. This series of adjoining cottages has been built to blend in with the island’s low-key architecture. Sip wine from the sandy shoreline garden as you wait for your return boat to St Mary’s (tides allowing).