The Latin american Travel Association
Inside: 10 great routes round Latin America 25 country guides Directory of tour operators & members
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The Latin american Travel Association
U N I T E D S T A T E S O F A M E R I C A BERMUDA
A T L A N T I C M E X I C O
O C E A N
BAHAMAS
GULF OF MEXICO HAVANA
Puerto Vallarta
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
CUBA
Chichén Itzá
HAITI
MEXICO CITY Tikal GUATEMALA CITY
GUATEMALA
BELIZE JAMAICA HONDURAS
BELMOPAN
TEGUCIGALPA
SAN SALVADOR
EL SALVADOR
NICARAGUA MANAGUA SAN JOSÉ
PACIFIC OCEAN
C A R I B B E A N S E A
COSTA RICA
PANAMA PANAMA
SANTO DOMINGO
ANTIGUA & PUERTO BARBUDA RICO ST KITTS & NEVIS DOMINICA ST LUCIA
DUTCH ST VINCENT BARBADOS CARIBBEAN GRENADA TRINIDAD CARACAS & TOBAGO VENEZUELA
GEORGETOWN PARAMARIBO
FRENCH GUIANA
GUYANA
Angel Falls
COLOMBIA
SURINAME
BOGOTÁ
CAYENNE
ECUADOR QUITO
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Galapagos Islands
River Am
Manaus
Belém
Guayaquil
Fortaleza
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P E R U LIMA Machu Picchu Cusco
Salvador
B O L I V I A
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LA PAZ
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Santa Cruz
PACIFIC OCEAN
Salar de Uyuni Calama
PARAGUAY
Atacama Desert
São Paulo
ASUNCIÓN
Rio de Janeiro
Iguassu Falls Curitiba
CHILE
Latin America in pictures
Porto Alegre Córdoba Mendoza
MONTEVIDEO
Juan Fernández Islands
BUENOS AIRES
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URUGUAY
A R G E N T I N A
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A T L A N T I C
Puerto Montt
Torres del Paine
Punta Arenas
10 great routes round Latin America page 11
Easter Island
SANTIAGO
Inside:
O C E A N
FALKLAND ISLANDS/ ISLAS MALVINAS
Ushuaia South Georgia
Country guides page 55
Directory of LATA tour operators & members
Cape Horn
Clockwise from left: Alan Dykes, Proexport Coloombia, Fotonatura, SkyBolivia.com, Riotur Brazil
Welcome Latin America gives you the chance to experience something extraordinary. The Latin American Travel Association – a collection of tourist boards, airlines, guidebook publishers and tour operators – will help you create an adventure that is both unforgettable and safe. All LATA members are fully ATOL-bonded (see page 56) so your holidays are protected. For more information, you’ll find a searchable map and links to all members on our website (www.lata.org). But LATA members don’t just share a reputation you can trust, but a passion for Latin America. Let them share it with you here - happy travels!
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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10
routes round latin america
Always wanted to see Latin America, but not sure where to start? We’ve picked ten top routes through this wild and wonderful region – plus some handy short-cuts
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Panamericana 1The
Mexico – Guatemala – El Salvador – Honduras – Nicaragua – Costa Rica – Panama – Colombia – Ecuador – Peru – Chile – Argentina Big trip: 4-6 months Get a taste: From 2 weeks
> Highlights Drive the wild Carretera Austral from Puerto Montt to Villa O’Higgins, Chile (2 weeks); brave chicken buses in Guatemala (2 weeks); tour Ecuador’s lofty Avenue of the Volcanoes (2 weeks).
Hiking in Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
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Simply the ultimate roadtrip: the mammoth Pan-American Highway starts in Alaska, but the best part delves downwards from the US/Mexico border to the tip of South America, 12 countries and well over 10,000km later. It’s not one exact route: there are scenic detours, plus a notorious 90km no-man’s-land forcing a flight over (or idyllic sail around) Panama’s impenetrable Darien Gap. But whichever way you take, this is a real road adventure. Link Mexico’s Sierra Madre mountains with Spanish lessons in Antigua (Guatemala), a sail to Lake Nicaragua’s volcanic Ometepe Island, a hike up active Arenal (Costa Rica), a wander around the pre-Columbian burial site of San Agustín (Colombia), haggling with the Panama-hat makers of historic Cuenca (Ecuador) and a horseback canter across Chile’s lunar-like Atacama Desert, before veering into Argentina, pointing south and not stopping until the road does... THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 3
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Clockwise from this image: Old-school charm in Havana; volcanic vistas on Lake Nicaragua; whale watching in Antarctica
Caribbean 2cool
Cuba Big trip: 2-3 weeks Get a taste: 1 week
> Highlights Plonk yourself in Havana and soak up the city (1 week); relax, or climb the Caribbean’s highest peak, Pico Duarte, in the nearby Dominican Republic for a classic take on the region (1 week). Geographically in the Caribbean but utterly unlike the rest of it, Cuba is an island that augments its fine beaches with salsa rhythms, ageing autos and revolutionary zeal. Havana is a great intro; it can be hard to tear yourself from its atmospheric crumbling colonial mansions, mojito bars once frequented by Hemingway and gorgeous nearby seasides. West of the capital, Viñales Valley offers sublime cycling amid mogotes (domed hills) and tobacco 4 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 05_Feature_thv11.indd 4
plantations. Most visitors, though, head east (perhaps in a vintage Chevy) for Santa Clara’s monument to Che, charming Trinidad, the labyrinthine town of Camagüey and the infectious music scene of Santiago de Cuba. Do stay in casas particulares (family-run B&Bs) en route, for the best insight into local living.
Antarctic 3EXPLORER
Argentina – Falkland Islands – Antarctica Big trip: 3 weeks Get a taste: 2 weeks
> Highlights Sail direct to the Antarctic Peninsula (7-10 days); get a southern wildlife fix on a Tierra del Fuego cruise from Punta Arenas, Chile, to Ushuaia (4 days); fly to Stanley for land-based exploration of the Falklands and beyond (1 week). Million-strong colonies of penguins; skies patrolled by albatross; elephant seals flumped
on frosty beaches; icebergs as big as battleships, but sculpted like works of art... The Antarctic region is owned by nature – humans just get to pay a passing, privileged visit. Access is often via Buenos Aires – linger in the Argentine capital for tango clubs and succulent steak before flying south to the end of the world: cruise ships embark for the White Continent from Ushuaia, the planet’s southernmost city. Sail to Antarctica via the Falkland Islands for added interest: visit capital Stanley’s war memorials, drink with the locals in atmospheric English pubs and coo at the five penguin species on Sealion Island. Next, navigate to the Antarctic Peninsula. Whale-watch on deck (blues, fins, humpbacks and more swim here), then wrap up for Zodiac trips: these zippy semi-inflatables get you intimate with calving glaciers, rusting whaling stations and countless curious penguins. www.lata.org 21/1/11 14:51:40
Previous page: Peter Mallet. This page: Zoltán Balogh; iStockphoto.com; Alamy
“Cuba is an island that augments its fine beaches with salsa rhythms, ageing autos and revolutionary zeal” Maya route 4The
Mexico – Guatemala – Belize – Honduras Big trip: 1-2 months Get a taste: 10 days
> Highlights Use Cancún as an entry-point for Yucatán exploration (10 days); blitz Belize’s Maya sites, then nip over to Tikal (10 days); experience Maya life near Lake Atitlán then trek to jungle-hidden El Mirador, Guatemala (2 weeks). That the central chunk of Central America is dotted with some of the continent’s best ruins is a bonus. Frankly its natural make-up is appealing enough: chirruping jungle pocked with azure sinkholes, sugary Caribbean beaches, conical volcanoes and rolling, rugged ranges. But this region, from southern Mexico to northern Nicaragua, was the one-time stronghold of the Maya – though their www.lata.org 05_Feature_thv11.indd 5
civilisation crumbled after the Spanish arrived, many sophisticated structures remain. Start on Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula with visits to iconic and accessible Chichén Itzá and beachside Tulum, heading south via the Calakmul Biosphere Reserve – here, as well as ruins, you might spot Baird’s tapirs, howler monkeys and jaguars. Next, delve into Guatemala, where Maya traditions are still very much evident in the clothes and culture of the living population. Tikal is the show-stopper site, but there are many more-remote ruins: Ceibal has fine carving, Quiriguá has the tallest obelisks and jungle-covered El Mirador – reachable only after a multi-day trek – is the biggest adventure. In Belize, mix Maya sites (try Caracol, Lamanai and Lubaantun) with spectacular snorkelling; similarly in Honduras, the Bay Islands provide idyllic relaxation after exploring the glyph-engraved temples of Copán. THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 5
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the Guianas 5Roam
Guyana – Suriname – French Guiana Big trip: 3 weeks Get a taste: 2 weeks
> Highlights Fly from capital Georgetown into Guyana’s wild interior (2 weeks); visit French Guiana’s capital Cayenne for its raucous Carnaval (1 week). Latin America’s least-travelled chunk, the Guianas offer a very different take on the continent. British, French and Dutch influences dominate, with Amerindian, African and Asian flavours mixed in. Starting-point Guyana is emerging as a top wilderness spot. From capital Georgetown fly inland to combine an ogle at 250m Kaieteur Falls with wildlife at Iwokrama rainforest, then a gallop across Rupununi savanna with the local vaqueros (cowboys). Backtrack to the coast and cross into Suriname – capital Paramaribo is Unesco-listed, with fine Dutch architecture – though most fun is a trip to untouched Maroon and Amerindian villages, involving jungle hikes and riverboats (look out for dolphins). French Guiana serves up croissants, a space centre and Devil’s Island, home to the grim penal colony that inspired Henri Charrière’s book, Papillon.
of the gaucho 6Land
Lyn Hughes; Dreamstime.com
Chile – Argentina – Uruguay Big trip: 3-4 weeks Get a taste: 2 weeks
> Highlights Base yourself at a Uruguayan ranch for full gaucho immersion (10 days); ride between estancias in Corrientes province, Argentina (2 weeks). The gauchos (cowboys) of the South American pampa have long been a proud bunch, skilfully herding cattle on this endless grassland. Their hard THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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work is best appreciated by staying at exquisite estancias (ranches) and eating juicy hunks of beef. Ideally those steaks should be accompanied by a glass of local red, so start in Santiago, slurp your way through the Maipo Valley and then hop over the Andes into Argentina for more vino in Mendoza. Heading east, horizons expand as you reach the vast pampa. San Antonio de Areco has a gaucho museum and festival (Nov), but it’s best to find a remote restored ranch where you can ride the horses or relax with fine food. Cosmopolitan Buenos Aires demands a few days, before you head over the river to Uruguay – take a ferry from BA to Colonia, full of graceful architecture, then find an estancia for a few days’ riding (perhaps around Florida) before finishing with a parrilla (meat grill) at Montevideo’s mouthwatering market.
“The gauchos have long been a proud bunch, skilfully herding cattle on endless grassland” www.lata.org 21/1/11 14:52:39
Thunder, thunder – the bellowing waterfalls at Iguaçu
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In Patagonia
Chile – Argentina Big trip: 4-5 weeks Get a taste: 2 weeks
> Highlights Fly Santiago-Punta Arenas-Buenos Aires to combine capitals and deep Patagonia (2-3 weeks); mix whales and Wales on the coast and in the Welsh villages of Peninsula Valdés, Argentina (1 week); explore the end of the world – Cape Horn and windswept Tierra del Fuego (1 week). The Americas’ far south is the epitome of wilderness: a land of horn-like peaks, sparkling lakes, wind-blasted alpaca – and few people. Entry to the Chilean side is via Puerto Montt: drive from here down to Villa O’Higgins past lakes and alerce forests, stopping to raft the Futaleufú River; or take the fjord-weaving ferry to Puerto Natales. Trek into craggy Torres del Paine, then hop over to Argentina for the white tongues of Los Glaciares National Park. www.lata.org 05_Feature_thv11.indd 7
North from here on the Argentine side lies good hiking round El Chaltén, the calving bulk of the Perito Moreno Glacier and, further still, beautiful lakes around Bariloche. South is the end of the earth – take the ferry to Tierra del Fuego to hear tales of hardships and shipwrecks, and to sail the Beagle Channel. Flights from Ushuaia up to Buenos Aires restore you to the real world.
adventure 8Inca
Ecuador – Peru – Bolivia – Chile Big trip: 1-2 months Get a taste: 2 weeks
> Highlights Focus on Peru, from Lima to Machu Picchu, via the Inca Trail (2 weeks); enjoy the ultimate wildlife trip – a cruise round Ecuador’s Galapagos (2 weeks); combine Bolivia with southern Peru (3 weeks). Machu Picchu is the posterchild of Latin America – with good reason: the iconic ‘lost city’ is a stunning ruin, gloriously perched in the Peruvian Andes.
But it’s far from the only Inca site. Fly into Quito and zip down the Avenue of the Volcanoes to the hillside ruins of Ingapirca (using the hairraising Devil’s Nose railway to link Riobamba and Sibambe en route). Fly over to the Galapagos islands for wildlife encounters, or cross into northern Peru – don’t miss the fortress of Kuelap, built by the Chachapoyas people. Skim the Andes to reach the Sacred Valley – Inca heaven. Explore the many sites around Inca capital Cusco, including the train or trek to Machu Picchu; fit pioneers could opt for the ‘new Inca Trail’ hike to the littlevisited mountain-side remains of Choquequirao instead. The empire extended into Bolivia but the country’s main site is far older – after bordercrossing via ethereal Lake Titicaca, head for the 2,000-yearold ruins at Tiwanaku, near La Paz. Continue south to the sparkling salt flats of Uyuni, into the north of Chile – the furthest boundaries of the Inca empire. Spewing geysers and star-gazing in the Atacama Desert await. THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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30/11/10
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“Linger with hummingbirds in the cloud forest before flying to remote, wildliferich lodges”
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Coast to coast
Peru – Bolivia – Paraguay – Brazil Duration: 1 month Get a taste: 2 weeks
Paul Franklin; Dreamstime.com
> Highlights Hit the Pantanal’s Transpantaneira Highway (2 weeks); explore Jesuit churches and cowboy badlands in Paraguay (1 week). Lima to Rio – Pacific to Atlantic – via some of the most iconic Latin sites, is a feet-itching prospect. Paraglide over the ocean in Lima’s Miraflores district before heading south: detour via the Nazca Lines – vast desert geoglyphs – and colonial Arequipa, or go straight to Cusco for Inca intrigue. Sail via Lake Titicaca’s floating reed Uros Islands to enter Bolivia. Spot flamingoes at the rainbow lakes of the altiplano (high plains) and traverse the Salar de Uyuni salt flats before crossing into
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Paraguay to pick up the wild Trans-Chaco road to capital Asunción. Hightail into Brazil at Iguaçu Falls – 250 thundering cascades in the rainforest. Turn north for the Pantanal’s wildlife-heaving wetlands before finding even wilder life on the Atlantic beaches of Paraty and in the samba clubs of raucous Rio.
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Amazonia & beyond
Brazil – Venezuela – Colombia – Ecuador Big trip: 2-3 months Get a taste: 10 days
> Highlights Explore Los Llanos and the table-top tepuis mountains of Venezuela (2 weeks); stay at an Amerindian-owned ecolodge in the Ecuadorian rainforest (10 days); watch rainbow macaws and other exotic species in the Manu Biosphere Reserve, Peru (2 weeks). This monster trip from Rio to Quito showcases the Amazon’s immensity and will spark ideas for shorter forays. However, if you can spare the time... Hug the Brazilian Atlantic coast, travelling north via Salvador (the place to try martialart-dance capoeira) and the golden dunes of Lençóis Maranhenses, to board a riverboat at Belém and sail inland along the Amazon.
Scour the banks for critters (caiman, monkeys, myriad birds) all the way to Manaus, where smaller craft leave to ply narrower tributaries – best for wildlife-spotting. Head north to Venezuela – the grasslands of Los Llanos offer more animals (anteaters are a highlight), while there is great tepuis trekking in the Gran Sabana (try scaling the massive massif of Mount Roraima). Next, into Colombia: travel via the hammock-slung beaches and profuse birdlife of Tayrona National Park to Cartagena, simply the continent’s prettiest colonial city. South, via Colombian capital Bogotá, sits Ecuador. Here, linger with the hummingbirds in the cloud forest north of Quito before flying to remote, wildlife-rich, locally owned lodges in the Oriente. Or jump on a plane and head over to the Galapagos Islands for an alternative animal adventure. ▪ THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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10 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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LATIN SPIRIT Latin America is a photographer’s dream – as these winning images from the Wanderlust Travel Photo of the Year competition demonstrate…
ARGENTINA
Cerro Torre & Monte Fitz Roy, Patagonia, Argentina
“As it’s a seven-hour round trip to see Torre up close and a longer, more arduous hike up to glimpse Fitz Roy – which is often shrouded in cloud and mist – it was a rare treat to see the entire range from such a vantage point.” Nori Jemil
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Costa rica
Tree frog
“Few countries have placed so much emphasis on care for the environment as Costa Rica, a wildly biodiverse destination that abolished its army in 1958 and instead ‘declared peace with nature’.” Danny Beath
ecuador
Otavalo Market
“I came across this side-street wall mural, celebrating the traditional Quechua way of life. For me, the shot is all about movement and change – how in these times of rapid development, the local Quechua have achieved commercial success while still holding on to their rich cultural heritage.” Ben Haskey
chile
Vicuñas grazing in Lago Chungará, Lauca National Park, Chile “Vicuñas were almost hunted to extinction for their fine wool in the early 20th century but are now protected. I followed this family group for half an hour.” Niall Corbet
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brazil
Street workers, Rio de Janeiro â&#x20AC;&#x153;I noticed these workers one morning when I was looking down from the balcony of our hotel overlooking Ipanema Beach.â&#x20AC;? Victoria Fry
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Bolivia
Cyclist crossing the Salar de Uyuni “I was on a tour crossing Bolivia‘s largest salt pan in a 4WD and spotted someone cycling into town. I grabbed my camera and fired off a few frames.” Jonathan Clay
Antarctica
Iceberg wave
“In December 2005, we were approaching Graham Land through a heavy South Atlantic swell. The rolling waves hitting this huge iceberg were almost exploding as if smashing into solid land. The elements came together to create an unforgettable, once-in-a-lifetime experience.” Eddy Lane
galapAgos Islands
Sally Lightfoot crab
“Most of the wildlife in the Galapagos is relatively unafraid of people – it doesn’t see humans as predators but more as passing curiosities that come and stare every now and then.” Andrew Chong
For more details, visit www.wanderlust.co.uk/magazine/awards
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Antarctica
The planet’s final frontier is as cool as ice
SOUTH AFRICA
Lyn Hughes
South Georgia
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2 4 5 WEDDELL SEA
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outh America is the most popular gateway to Antarctica, the world’s last great wilderness. Cold, wind-beaten and desolate, the white continent boasts the lowest temperature ever recorded – -90°C – but for many it remains the most beautiful place on the planet. The coastline is teeming with rare wildlife; gigantic icebergs and vast mountain ranges reflect in the freezing water, and the continent shivers under a blanket of snow and ice, like nowhere else on earth. Cruises run during the Antarctic summer (November to mid-March) and represent the only way to reach unique landscapes such as the Ross Ice Shelf – a glistening mass of floating ice the size of France – and Paradise Harbour, Antarctica’s most beautiful bay. But it is the wildlife that attracts most visitors. You’ll be taken ashore in Zodiacs to see some of the world’s rarest birdlife, including the endangered wandering albatross. You’ll also likely see minke 1 whales and seals. Then there are the penguins – hundreds of thousands of them. Visit in November to see them courting; through December and January to spot the chicks being born; or during the last days of the austral summer (February to March) to watch the impossibly cute youngsters head out to sea.
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Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: Governed by an international treaty and not ‘owned’ by anyone – no capital city Population: 1,200 (winter), 5,000 (summer) – all scientific expeditions Time: Many expedition ships keep the same time as the port they left International dialling code: +672 Money: Bases generally accept US$; ships usually run a tab system – you pay at the end of the trip Visas: Not required, but UK nationals must have a permit – usually provided by the tour company for the whole vessel. Check 1 before you depart
When to go 1 November to mid-March,
unless you fancy total darkness and temperatures below -50°C
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2 Sail to the South Shetland Islands, a British dependency around 120km north of the Antarctic peninsula, renowned for nature-spotting opportunities 3 Make flat-footed friends on South Georgia – this archipelago is home to colossal penguin colonies, as well as Shackleton history 4 Take in views of snow-capped mountains and ice cliffs at the aptly-named Paradise Harbour, in the north of the peninsula 5 Cruise through the Lemaire Channel, flanked with calving glaciers and snowy peaks
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rgentina’s contrasts never cease to amaze. One day you’re on a boat rushing towards spectacular waterfalls as electricblue butterflies flutter through the spray. Next thing you know, you’re walking across the sculpted surface of a vast glacier. Argentina’s extraordinary natural wonders are largely untouched. The mighty Andes form the country’s spine, their jagged peaks a trekking paradise. From Mendoza you can climb Mount Aconcagua or ski for miles, before sipping a fine malbec at a nearby bodega (winery). In the peaks around Bariloche are lakes of navy, peppermint green and the palest blue, surrounded by ancient forest. Nearby you can fish for huge
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rainbow trout from the Chimehuin River, or walk among monkeypuzzle trees in Villa Pehuenia. Argentina’s history stretches back to pre-Incan cultures, whose ruined cities are perched on hillsides in cactus-strewn valleys. Quiet adobe villages are oases in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a vast gorge of vermilion rock. Wander through palm-filled plazas in colonial Salta to the sounds of a vibrant peña (folklore group), as crowds of locals clap and sing. Across the sweltering savannas of Corrientes, storks and caiman stand on islands of vegetation: a nature-watcher’s heaven. For more exotic creatures and mighty waterfalls, head 1 to the emerald jungle of Iguazú National Park, or follow red-earth roads to the evocative Jesuit ruins at San Ignacio in Misiones. The capital, Buenos Aires, is another Argentina altogether, with a swift pace, chic restaurants and Parisian-style architecture. Marvel at the intricate footwork of the tango one night and, next day, ride your horse over the pampas to a gorgeous colonial estancia (ranch) to eat sublime steaks cooked on the asado (barbecue) under the stars.
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There is no experience like Patagonia: liberating, empty expanses of nothing – just sheep, llamas, wind-whipped clouds and Mount Fitz Roy’s granite turrets rising up from the steppe. All along the Atlantic coast are beautiful, wild beaches that are home to penguins and colonies
of seals, with whales basking in the bay right next to your boat. But Tierra del Fuego is the ultimate wilderness, with jagged mountains whose tree-cloaked slopes turn scarlet in autumn. Sail to the estancia (ranch) of the first pioneer and contemplate the ‘end of the world’ in magical tranquillity.
Essentials VITAL STATISTICS
Capital: Buenos Aires Population: 40 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-3 International dialling code: +54 Money: Argentine peso (AR$), currently around AR$6.3 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK nationals 1
1
WHEN TO GO
It’s always the right time to be somewhere in Argentina, though the south is cold in winter (May to October) and the north can be hot and humid with heavy rains during the summer months (December to February). The Argentine spring, from September to November, is perfect just about everywhere
TOP 5 EXPERIENCES
1 Wander Recoleta cemetery in Buenos Aires, home to Evita’s grave – and many stray cats 2 Slurp world-class wine in the Mendoza region, home to mouth-watering vineyards, colonial villages and luxurious estancias. 3 Ride across the wild, drum-flat Argentine pampas – saddle up for games of polo, drive cattle across huge estates or just soak up the gaucho (cowboy) culture 4 Find the end of the world – Tierra del Fuego is a land of wind-whipped wilderness and dramatic landscapes 5 Take in Patagonia’s show-piece attraction, the Perito Moreno Glacier – a 30km river of ice snaking through the mountains
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/argentina THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 17
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South Geor
A charming retreat located on WKH ZKLWH VDQG EHDFKHV Ե WKH world’s second largest barrier reef
An exquisite hideaway from which to explore Mayan ruins, pristine jungle , teeming birdlife and exciting wildlife
Zʨɦ ʧLFWʝʢLɈ KʝXȿɏ Fʝə
Zʨɦ ɭKʋQɭʕLɭɓ Fʝə
See www.lata.org for a list of specialist UK Tour Operators and ask to include us in your Belize itinerary. Talking Stick Marketing is our UK based Representation & Marketing Company with an exclusive portfolio of luxury properties and DMC’s in Central and South America, Africa and Asia. Contact Byron on bshirto@talkingstickmktg.com or visit www.talkingstickmktg.com.
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M o T H E r NA T u r E’s BEsT KE pT sECrET
Be one with awestruck. Be one with lush rainforests. Be one with this Hemisphere’s largest barrier reef. As one of the last unspoiled places on earth, you’ll feel an intimate connection to authentic experiences in Belize. All this in the only English-speaking country of Central America. Call 32.2.732 6204 or visit TravelBelize.org/LATA. And just be, in Belize.
18 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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Belize
Maya treasures and island bliss 0
100km
M E X I C O 3 Corozal Orange Walk 1
Amber Caye
Caye Caulker Belize City The Blue 4 Hole
Altun Ha Lamanai Guanacaste
NP San Ignacio BELMOPAN
Dangriga CARIBBEAN Placencia SEA
Cockscomb Basin WS
Caracol
2
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Lubaantun
Big Falls
800%
Punta Gorda
Tony Rath/tonyrath.com
G U AT E M A L A
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elize, formerly known as British Honduras, nestles on the Caribbean coast between Mexico and Guatemala. Within this small country, the landscape varies incredibly: mountainous, tropical rainforests with abundant wildlife; fertile subtropical foothills where sugar, rice, cattle and fruit trees are cultivated; bird-filled coastal wetlands; and cayes (small islands) with beautiful beaches. The coral and cayes form a 295km-long barrier reef sitting in crystal-clear water, perfect for fishing, diving and snorkelling. Warm tropical breezes encourage the laid-back attitude of the ethnically diverse population: Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker are the most popular. From here, take excursions to the smaller cayes and marine parks to sample spectacular diving at the world-famous Blue Hole.
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Back on the mainland, in the west you can visit Guanacaste National Park and a number of eco-resorts, lodges and working farms offering accommodation in idyllic settings. A side trip to the Mountain Pine Ridge offers great hiking amid spectacular rivers, waterfalls and caves. San Ignacio and its twin town Santa Elena have a pleasant climate and lie in a beautiful setting of wooded hills. The whole of Belize – and especially 1 the west – is littered with ancient Maya sites; try the fine ruins at Lamanai. In the south, Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary for jaguars is the main attraction. The coastal area around Placencia offers some spectacular sport fishing and diving, while offshore cayes reached by boat from Dangriga or Mango Creek offer seclusion, relaxation, lovely beaches and fabulous water.
I I I
Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: Belmopan; however, Belize City is the main hub Population: 300,000 Language: English (official), Spanish and indigenous languages Time: GMT-6 International dialling code: +501 Money: Belize dollar (Bz$), currently around Bz$3 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK1 nationals
1
When to go
Officially wet season is June to August and dry season is February to May. Realistically, you could get rained on at any time, especially in the south. Hurricane season is June to November. High season is mid-December to March
top 5 experiences
1 Laze about on the cayes in the north of the country for a taste of island paradise 2 Be at one with nature at the Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve, an area of dense forest and cool shade, excellent for exploring local caves, rivers and waterfalls 3 Make the northern town of Orange Walk your base for visiting the surrounding Maya ceremonial sites such as Lamanai and Altun Ha 4 Head to the town of Dangriga to sample the customs and music of the Garifuna people, an Afro-Belizean community 5 Visit the world-famous jaguar preserve at Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/belize THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 19
21/1/11 15:19:50
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... TITICACA LAKE ... Daily connections between Peru and Bolivia
Finest inbound Tour operator of Bolivia. Owner of the Catamaran Cruise Ships operating on Lake Titicaca. Owner of the Inti Wata Cultural Complex at Sun Island. Transfers, lodging, meals and guided tours all over Bolivia. Pioneers and leading tour operator in Community Tourism.
E-mail: info@transturin.com - Web: www.transturin.com Phone: 591-2 2422222 - Fax: 591-2 2411922
20 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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PORT-AU-PRINCE
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 21 O N I A
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top 5 experiences
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8 For more information go to www.lata.org/bolivia www.lata.org
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When to go
Bolivian weather is unpredictable and varies across the country – it could rain at any time, but especially during the wet season (October to March). August is generally the driest month and coincides with most of Bolivia’s major festivals
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Essentials
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Capital: Sucre (judicial), La Paz (political) Population: 10 million Language: Spanish, Quechua and Aymara Time: GMT-4 International dialling code: +591 Money: Boliviano (Bs), currently around Bs11 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK1 nationals
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n Bolivia you learn to expect the unexpected. This is where flamingoes feed from red and green lakes rimmed by volcanoes, where Dalí-esque rock structures dot the altiplano (high plain) like a baby giant’s building blocks, and where waterfalls crash onto one of the most dangerous (but spectacular) roads in the world. With close to 1,000 peaks over 5,000m, it is no surprise that Bolivia has the highest capital in the world. Even the airport is
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Tayrona NP
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Lago Buenos Aires Dese
Comodoro Rivadavia Golfo de San Jorge C. Tres Puntas
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Brazil’s Most Glamorous Destinations.
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Brazil
Riotur Brazil
A heady brew of sun, sea and samba in South America’s largest country
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mix of mountain, rainforest and beach – and its eclectic mix of cosmopolitan city and tropical resort. Corcovado, Sugar Loaf, Copacabana, Ipanema and Maracanã stadium are all names and images that make Rio special – as does the spectacular Carnaval. Brazil is much more than Rio, though. The north-east is growing in popularity as a destination, led by the state of Bahia, often dubbed ‘Africa in exile’. This was the heart of colonial Brazil and the best architecture of that period is found in the state capital, Salvador, where more than 800 buildings dating from the 17th and 18th centuries can be found in an area designated a World Heritage site by Unesco. The north-east offers a heady blend of cultures, cuisine and ethnic groups, as well as many natural wonders such as Chapada Diamantina National Park and the
escribed as the sexiest people on earth, Brazilians are themselves seduced by the sound of music and the lure of the beach. Along Brazil’s 7,250km coastline there is a stretch of sand for every volleyball player, capoeira dancer, surfer and dune-basher. But Brazilians have a spiritual side to match their hedonistic streak. Many exotic religions flourish, most notable Candomblé E D S T A T E S A M E R I C A (based on African traditions), BERMUDA existing alongside Catholicism. Brazil also has a rich architectural heritage, dating back to the 16th century, when the Portuguese BAHAMAS invested in some of the world’s most beautiful baroque buildings. CUBA PUERTO RICO HAITI Brazilians say that God created ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA JAMAICA ST. KITTS REPUBLIC– and BELIZE the world in sixDOMINICAN days onDOMINICA the AND NEVIS HONDURAS ST. LUCIA seventh He created Rio de Janeiro. MALA ST. VINCENT NICARAGUA BARBADOS EL SALVADOR Few who have been to Rio would GRENADA TRINIDAD & argue, given the city’s spectacular TOBAGO COSTA RICA L.Sup erior
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Semuc The Bay Islands Todos Santos Champey Lívingston Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán Copán La Mosquitia Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa Gracias GUATEMALA TEGUCIGALPA Monterrico Suchitoto Cerro Verde NP SAN El Imposible NP SALVADOR Leon Granada Ruta de Flores MANAGUA Volcán Masaya
Lake Nicaragua
Pta. Gallinas
The Corn Islands
Ometepe Island
Tenorio NP Guanacaste Nicoya Peninsula Jacó
Tayrona NP
Volcán Arenal Tortuguero
SAN JOSÉ
Manuel Antonio NP
C A R I B B E A N
Corcovado NP Osa Peninsula
Aruba
Gulf of Venezuela
S E A
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Maracaibo
Sierra Nevada NP
Tobago
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Ciudad Guayana
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Delta del Orinoco
VENEZUELA
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COLOMBIA
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4 Shake those hips at Brazil’s annual Carnaval – top places to join the party include Recife, Salvador, São Paulo and Rio 5 Wildlife-spot, canoe-paddle and forest-delve in the vast Amazon Rainforest
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/brazil
MONTEVIDEO
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Mar del Plata
Cabo Corrientes
THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 25
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When to go
Brazil can be visited at any time of year, depending on where you go. Most of the country is tropical but, given its size, weather patterns can vary. National holidays run mid-December to February, so it can get busy around this time
1 Enjoy the beaches, juice bars and local hospitality in Rio de Janeiro – a city that has it all 2 Wander around the pastelcoloured colonial houses of Salvador, in the northern state of Bahia, a hotbed of Afro-Brazilian culture and music 3 Spot flora and fauna aplenty in the Pantanal, a vast and verdant spread of wetlands – a nature-spotter’s dream and real jaguar hotspot
Golfo San Matias
Bariloche
Puerto Montt Isla de Chiloé
1
top 5 experiences
Viedma
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Pta. de la Galera
Vital statistics
Capital: Brasília Population: 196 million Language: Portuguese Time: GMT-2 (Brasília and coast), GMT-3 (Mato Grosso, Mato Grosso do Sul, western Pará, Rondônia, Roraima), GMT-4 (Acre, West Amazonas) International dialling code: +55 Money: Real (R$), currently around R$2.65 to the UK£ Natal Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
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wetlands in the Americas where an immense diversity of bird and wildlife can be found. Brazil’s southern states of Rio Grande do Sul, Santa Catarina and Paraná are equally full of surprises. There are great beaches for sun and surf; crumbling colonial splendour at towns such as Paranaguá; Bavarian architecture at Blumenau; Itaimbezinho Canyon, the largest in Latin America; and the spectacular falls at Iguaçu, which stretch almost 3km along the border with Argentina and Paraguay.
Essentials
O C E A N
GUYANA
Rawson
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San Cristóbel de las Casas
Jarabocoa Samaná Los Haitises NP Mount SANTO Pico Duarte DOMINGO
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stunning beaches. Other popular destinations in the north-east include the states of Alagoas, Ceará, Paraíba, Pernambuco, Rio Grande do Norte and Sergipe. The mighty Amazon river flows through northern Brazil to the Atlantic. Visitors can explore and experience the astonishing natural variety of the Amazon’s flora and fauna via gateways such as Belém or Manaus. Offering a more visible display of Brazil’s varied wildlife is the Pantanal, a collection of ecosystems comprising the largest
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Chile
The ‘thin country’ reaching Pacific heights PERU BOLIVIA
Arica Iquique
PARAGUAY San Pedro de Atacama Atacama Desert
La Serena
1 4 ARGENTINA
PA C I F I C OCEAN
SANTIAGO
Chillán
Valdivia
Pucón Lake District
Puerto Montt Chiloé
Coyhaique
horns
AT L A N T I C OCEAN
2
gon
Villa O’Higgins
3
ia
5
Pata
Felipe Orrego; Gastón Oyarzún. Both from www.visitchile.org
Valparaíso
Hanga Roa Easter Island (Rapa Nui)
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hile is a ribbon of land squashed between the Pacific and the Andes. Its landscape embraces glacial wilderness and moonscapes, lakes and volcanoes, beaches, salt flats and the burnt colours of the desert. In one day it’s possible to scale a mountain, soak off the exhaustion in a thermal bath and then rest beneath the desert stars. Santiago, Chile’s sophisticated capital, nestles beside the Andes. It’s a frenetic collision of skyscrapers, noise and nightlife. The nearby port of Valparaíso was described by Brian Keenan as a “Venice waiting to be discovered,” with warrens of streets and bright houses.
0
In the far north is the small town of San Pedro de Atacama, an unlikely oasis set among geysers, volcanoes and salt flats. For real stargazers, there are astronomical observatories to take advantage of the region’s clear skies. South of capital Santiago is the popular Lake District. Much of this region is protected as national parks, and the mixture of forests, lakes and snow-capped volcanoes is unforgettable. Further south lies the mysterious archipelago of Chiloé, one of the most fascinating areas of Chile. Here you are almost always within sight of the sea, with dolphins playing in the waters and, on a clear day, views across to the 1 twisting Corcovado volcano. The Carretera Austral (Southern Highway) traverses a large tract of sparsely inhabited wilderness. Drive past forests, glaciers, fjords, small islands and hidden fishing villages. There are hot springs and excellent fishing and rafting in the cold, clean waters. You can climb mountains and cross ice fields, or cruise to the breathtaking sight of Laguna San Rafael’s glacier. In the far south lies the aweinspiring Torres del Paine National
I I I
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Park, a mecca for trekkers and wildlife enthusiasts. Throughout the year, the park offers constantly changing views of the glaciers, peaks and the iconic granite towers, which overlook vividly coloured lakes and quiet green
500km
Torres Tierra del del Paine NP Fuego Punta Arenas Puerto Williams Cabo de Hornos (Cape Horn)
valleys filled with carpets of wild flowers and shrubs. For something completely different, head 3,790km west into the Pacific. Here sits Easter Island, famous for its 887 iconic and mysterious moai (stone heads).
Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: Santiago Population: 17 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-4 (mainland), GMT-6 (Easter Island) International dialling code: +56 Money: Chilean peso (CLP), currently around CLP750 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK1 nationals
1
When to go
Explore the south November to April but avoid mid-winter (June to September) when some southern areas are almost impenetrable. The middle of Chile is best in spring and autumn, while the northern desert can be explored year-round
top 5 experiences
1 Amble about the port town of Valparaíso and feast your eyes on the colourful old town 2 Trek through the magnificent Torres del Paine National Park in Patagonia, for spectacular vistas over snow-capped mountains and shimmering lakes 3 Have a head-to-head with the giant stone statues on Easter Island, remnants of a longvanished Polynesian civilisation in the remotest Pacific 4 Tuck into seafood in the buzzing metropolis of Santiago, one of South America’s most happening urban centres 5 Drive for miles without encountering another soul on the wild Carretera Austral
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/chile THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 27
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Monterrey
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Trinidad
Yucatan Peninsula
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Tulum
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Santiago de Cuba
HAITI
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BARBADOS To the east lies Tayrona south-west of Bogotá is Cali, partyGRENADA National Park, where visitors lovingPORT capital of salsa music. OF Tobago SPAIN TRINIDAD & Paria jewel share the beaches with pelicans, The Trinidad in the country’s Peninsula TOBAGO Delta delis the beautiful city and enjoy an idyllic setting: the colonial crown Orinoco Ciudad backdrop of the snow-capped of Ciudad Cartagena, full of wonderful old Guayana Bolivar GEORGETOWN Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta buildings lining flower-filled Galibi Nature Reserve PARAMARIBO Angel Salut GUYANA Brownsberg Islands rises straight out of the gentle streets Falls and with a Raleighvallen fascinating Kourou NP Nature Reserve Mount Roraima Voltaire history rich in emeralds and Falls SaülCAYENNE waters of the Caribbean. SURINAME Central Suriname Awarradam Located inland, high up pirates. Today it’s the heart Nature Reserve of FRENCH GUIANA in the mountains, lies Ciudad Colombia’s Caribbean: miles of unspoilt coastline stretch west Macapá Perdida, an ancient centre of the B. de Marajó once-great Tayrona culture. towards Panama. I. de Marajó
C A R I B B E A N1 S E A
now firmly on the Ciudad Cartagena travel circuit, and Perdida COSTA RICA SAN JOSÉ PANAMA Manuel Antonio NP the adventurous Corcovado NP Osa Peninsula Azuero VENEZUELA will fall in love with this land of Peninsula sun and emeralds. Colombia is Medellin 5 a land of contrasts, from the cool Pereira BOGOTÁ heights of capital city Bogotá to the 3 Ibagué Buenaventura 2 sweltering Caribbean beaches. Neiva Opportunities for climbing, San Agustín Punta Galera trekking and diving are excellent, BRAZIL and there are mud volcanoes to ECUADOR Belém B. de bathe in, acres of flowers, remoteGuayaquil São Marcos Manaus Gulf of São Luis coffee fincas high in the mountains Guayaquil PERU 0 200km Fortaleza and a CD library’s worth of music Teresina Ponta do Calcanhar festivals, in addition to several Punta Aguja Natal superb historical sites. Chiclayo Vital statistics Top 5 experiences Joao Pessoa Trujillo Bogotá stands on a plateau in the S N G A Cordillera Blanca A T I Capital: Bogotá Sun-worship on the AwhiteC 1 Porto Velho Nevado Huascarán Recife eastern cordillera of the Andes. The Chimbote Juazeiro Population: 46 million sand Caribbean beaches old centre, La Candelaria, boasts Maceió around Tayrona National Park S I Language: Spanish Riberalta ER Manu Biosphere RA Reserve dozens of fine colonial buildings Aracaju Comas DO Time: S P GMT-5 Huancayo Chapadain the AR 2 Get a history lesson Callao LIMA ECI Diamantina NP S Machu Picchu and a grand Gold Museum housing International dialling code: +57 Sacred Valley Cusco small town of San Agustín, Salvador one of the most remarkable Money: Colombian peso (COP), Noel Kempff Pen. Paracas famed for its intricate preCarinhanha Mercado NP Nasca Lines Cuiabá Colca Canyon BRAZILIAN B A Hback I A collections of pre-Hispanic gold BRASÍLIA B O currently L I V I Aaround COP$2,985 Nasca H I G H L Astatues NDS Colombian dating 1 Nevado Ampato Volcán Sorata Nevado Ancohume PLANALTO DE MATO GROSSO Corioco to the UK£ in Latin America. Montes Claros years Goiânia Arequipa El Misti more than 5,000 LA PAZ Cochabamba Visas: required by UK nationals Outside the centre, head to the Cruz 1 SantaNot Caravelas M Ithose N A S salsa moves Oruro 3 Show off Sucre Arica G E R A I S town of Zipaquirá to explore the inBelo Cali, Latin America’s Horizonte When to go Campo Grande Potosí ACIFIC OCEAN Pta. de Baleia awesome cathedralPcarved out of Salar de Uyuni NP 1 undisputed capital when it comes There are no real ‘seasons’ in Vitória Juiz to the dance.de Look out for the city’s a rock-salt mine – a true wonder The Chaco Fora Colombia: weather is dependent Campos Concepción Campinas post-Christmas feria (carnival) Cabo de São Tomé of this mysterious country. Esteros de on altitude. Heavy showers can Antofagasta Iberá São Paulo Río de Janeiro Cabo Frio PARAGUAY R South-west of Bogotá, in the lush Stroll the warren of streets in Salta City happen at any time, ASUNCIÓN though rain is 4 M A Santos Volcán Iguazú NP Llullaillaco Curitiba the walled city of Cartagena, valleys around the little town of more likely inFormosa April, May, October San Ignacio Guazú Colombia’s most impressive San Agustín, lies the country’s most and November. Nevado Ojos San Miguel de Tucumán The best time to del Salado Copiapó Florianópolis Corrientes colonial gem visit is December to February, but impressive pre-Columbian site: Laguna Santa C H I L E Cabo Sta. Marta Grande take warm clothing for areas above Visit the sparklingly the Valley of the Statues, where Maria Pôrto 5 Alegre 2,000m. Bogotá has cool to Coquimbo enlightening Gold Museum hundreds of enigmatic stone Pta. Lengua de Vaca Cordoba temperatures Concordia moderate all year Pelotas in La Candelaria, Bogotá San Juan figures of men, animals and gods – Rio Grande Santa Fe URUGUAY Paraná Cerro Aconcagua some over 5,000 years old – adorn ForRosario more information go to www.lata.org/colombia Colonia del Mendoza City Valparaiso Sacramento Santa Teresa NP an ancient ceremonial site. Also SANTIAGO BUENOS AIRES MONTEVIDEO PAMPAS TheLake Corn Islands Nicaragua Ometepe Island Tenorio NP Guanacaste Volcán Arenal Nicoya Peninsula Jacó Tortuguero Volcán Masaya
Tayrona NP
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28 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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Baton Rouge
Houston
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True to its name, undeniably nature-rich
Mia
GULF OF MEXICO
M E X I C O HAVANA
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VERACRUZ
Trinidad Mérida
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Sue Morkill/Last Frontiers; iStockphoto
MICHOACÁN Acapulco
P
eaceful, calm and politically stable – welcome to Costa Rica. Coast to coast, the country boasts huge riches in wildlife. Indeed, more than 25% of Costa Rica is protected by national parks and reserves. Quetzals flit through the moss-draped cloud forest, hummingbirds congregate to drink nectar, monkeys howl, frogs come in a spectrum of dazzling shades and leatherback turtles nest on virgin beaches. In short, it’s a nature-lover’s paradise. In the far north-west, Guanacaste has the largest remaining area of dry forest in Central America and is a Unesco Natural World Heritage site. Further south, the Nicoya Peninsula’s beaches are hidden in quiet, secluded coves, separated by rocky outcrops and fringed by jauntily angled palms rustling in the coastal breeze. The Central Pacific coast ups the pace very
Palenque Tikal
JAM
BELIZE
Semuc The Bay Islands Champey Lívingston Todos Santos Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán Copán La Mosquitia Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa Gracias GUATEMALA TEGUCIGALPA MonterricoEL SALVADOR Suchitoto Cerro Verde NP
GUATEMALA slightly: visit the laid-back hangout of Jacó and enjoy the unmistakable beauty and golden-sand beaches of Manuel Antonio National Park. The coastal mangroves around Tortuguero are a teasing mix of natural wonders – a huge national park comprising coast and junglefringed waterways teeming with bird and insect life. If you’re lucky you may see a huge leatherback turtle lumber out of the ocean to lay soft-skinned, leathery eggs in a sandy nest. You might also catch the looping flight of a multicoloured toucan or spot the vivid flash of morpho butterflies. The capital city, San José, perches in the heart of the central highlands, on a loose line of volcanoes that runs the length of the country. Dividing the Caribbean from the Pacific, the Central, Tilarán and Guanacaste 1mountain ranges contain six active volcanoes including mighty Arenal, which spews a constant trickle of red-hot lava, illuminating the night sky. For something less explosive, Rincón de la Vieja and Volcán Tenorio National Parks have spluttering mud baths and steaming thermal pools that you can wallow in. Want some more action? Adrenaline junkies can tackle the barren páramo savannas to reach the peak of Cerro Chirripó. Or
I I I
HONDURAS El Imposible investigate CostaNP Rica’s stone balls located in the Diquis Delta – ancient and enigmatic relics, Ruta de Flores ranging in diameter from a few CARIBBEAN NICARAGUA SEA centimetres to 2m, which are still Guanacaste NP 2 a mystery to archaeologists. Rincón de 5 Volcán 3 la Vieja NP Arenal Río Pacuare For some of the best rainforest Monteverde Puerto Limón trekking in Latin America, head to SAN JOSÉ 1 4 Cerro Corcovado National Park on the Manuel Antonio NP Chirripó Osa Peninsula, Costa Rica’s most P A C I F I C Corcovado PANAMA NP OCEAN remote and possibly its most Osa 0 200km Peninsula rewarding wilderness.
Panama Canal
Gulf of Panama
Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: San José Population: 4.5 million Language: Spanish (English widely understood) Time: GMT-6 International dialling code: +506 Money: Colón (¢), currently around ¢790 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK nationals 1
1
When to go
Costa Rica’s two coasts have different weather patterns: the Pacific coast is dry from December to April, while the Caribbean slopes are drier between August and October. Costa Rica has long periods of sunshine and, due to its proximity to the equator, doesn’t really have a winter season
Cabo Co
Top 5 experiences
1 The iconic cloud forest of Monteverde is home to the aptly named resplendent quetzal
Buenav
2 Check out the Arenal volcano by night – from a safe distance of course – as it coughs up red-hot lava, which then slowly trickles down the mountainside
Ne
San
of 3 Explore the lush forests Punta Galera Guanacaste National Park where there are plenty of senderos QUITO (trails), hiking options and naturespotting opportunities
4 Embrace your inner fitness junkie by climbing Cerro Chirripó, the highest peak inGuayaquil Costa Rica, nearly 4,000m above sea level
ECU
Chimbo
Gulf of
5 Get an adrenaline fix Guayaquil whitewater rafting on the Reventazón and Pacuare rivers
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/costarica THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 29
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Oaxaca
Varade
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Cape Cod
New York
Harrisburg
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Springfield
Topeka
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Jefferson City
Providence
Hartford
Detroit
Des Moines
Boston
Albany
Indianapolis
Dover
Charleston
St. Louis
Frankfort
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Raleigh
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Oklahoma City
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Cape Fear
Paul Morrison
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Montgomery
Baton Rouge
Tallahassee Jacksonville
New Orleans
San Antonio
Mississippi Delta
Orlando
Classic cars and old-school charm
E
Monterrey
verybody’s image of Cuba is different. For some, it’s an idealised tropical paradise, with palm trees swaying alongside endless, dazzling-white beaches and a turquoise sea. Others remember Tampico its past decadence: stories of Ernest Hemingway and Graham Greene, cheap rum, gambling, wild dances and cigars being rolled on the thighs of dusky maidens. Only the Teotihuacán gambling is no longer available. MEXICO CITYare revolutionaries: Then there José Martí, Castro, Che Guevara.
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Cuba is blessed with a pristine
Out of the water, Varadero is a sandy spit of land that stretches for kilometres along the north coast and has attracted tourists since the beginning of the 20th century. For something a bit livelier, head to the locals’ favourite hangouts: Guanabo, near Havana, or the beaches east of Santiago de Cuba, the country’s second city. Pta. Gallinas Wherever you go in Cuba you Aruba The Corn Islands Lake Nicaragua Volcánin Masaya the Cuban capital, a famous by Ernest Hemingway. will be accompanied by music. charged 10% commission to Gulf Ometepe Island Tayrona NP clapped-out vintage car soaking of Venezuela Every town has a casa de la exchange them, so take euros Guanacaste Barranquilla up the atmosphere andNP spotting Tenorio Mo trova where you can enjoy Visas: UK nationals need a 30-day Volcán Arenal Che Guevara murals Cartagena Portobello the different styles of Nicoya Peninsula Jacó Tortuguero tourist card. Contact the Cuban Ciudad Perdida Maracaib Panama Panamá Viejo Embassy or your tour operator Cuban music for the 4 Dive the deep-blue sea and SAN JOSÉ Canal 1 (The Lost City) Bar San Blásprice of a rum take advantage of the excellent or two. Manuel Antonio Islands coral reefs around María laNP Gorda, When to go PANAMA Corcovado NP The salsa and the son, Lake 1 Dry season is November to in the far west Osa Peninsula the mamba and the Maracaibo Azuero Gulf of Darién Sie April – it can be as cool as 15ºC in Peninsula Panama rumba – all are now 5 Visit the casa de la trova in Ne January and February. The wet and Santiago, one of the best internationally windy season lasts May to October spots for seeing live music famous and Cuban jazz has influenced music the For more information go to www.lata.org/cuba Medellin Cabo Corrientes world over. Manizales a
Tikal
reef around most of its shores, Vital statistics Top Semuc 5 experiences The with Bay Islands walls and wrecks hosting Lívingston Capital: Havana Todos Santos 1 Champey Hike into the spectacular kaleidoscopic underwater life. The Population: 11 million limestone peaks and pine Quetzaltenango Copán Lake Atitlán coral is in excellent Language: Spanish forests of Viñales La Mosquitia condition and Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa Time: GMT-5 there are turtles, dolphins, grouper, Head to Trinidad, a laid-back Gracias 2 International dialling code:GUATEMALA +53 whale sharks, moray eels, rays, city full of gently dilapidated TEGUCIGALPA Money: The Cuban peso (CU$) Monterrico is Suchitoto barracuda and other large creatures colonial the main Cerro Verde NP beauty, where SAN only used by Cubans. Visitors use El Imposible NP remains industry tobacco to make your heart miss a beat. SALVADOR pesos convertibles (CUC$), worth processing from nearby fields Leon Deep-sea fishing has long been just less than the US$. US dollars Granada popular, with tournaments made Drive around Havana, MANAGUA 3 are not accepted, and you’ll be Ruta de Flores
HONDURAS
GUATEMALA
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These men perhaps contribute the most powerful island image of them all: Cuba freeing itself from its colonial past and then standing up to the US, the world’s most powerful country. Cuba’s old towns remain remarkably unspoilt and intact. Havana is a Unesco World Heritage site and strenuous efforts are being made to restoreMérida the colonial centre to its former glory. Around the island, Trinidad is the most Yucatan Tulum precious colonial town, Peninsula where little has changed for at least 100 years.
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Trinidad
The Dominican Republic has aze on a beach under the Caribbean’s highest peak – swaying palm trees, the the rugged Pico Duarte – which blue sea lapping at your towers over the Cordillera Central toes while you sip rum at 3,175m. Nearby Jarabacoa is cocktails and catch up on your the centre for most adventure reading. Or, if the novelty of sports, from white-water rafting a Bounty-style paradise wears to canyoning. off, don a wetsuit and tackle the Further east, head to Samaná rapids, leap off a waterfall, hike up Bay to watch humpback whales a mountain and then tear back frolicking in the ocean. Los down it on a mountain bike – the Haitises National Park is a 1,200Dominican Republic has a bit of The Bay Islands sq-km park of coastal wetlands, something for everyone. lush, grassy knolls and a series of Santo Domingo is the welllimestone caves with Amerindian preserved colonial capital, Yojoa cave drawings. When you tire of a Unesco World Heritage Site nature-watching, sign up for which showcases the conquistadors’ a horse-riding trek to El Limón first cathedral, first paved street to bathe in the cool pool at the and first court in the New World. bottom of its Men cluster around tables at the 1 150m waterfall. Or try your hand at kiteboarding at roadside, deliberating over their Cabarete, one of the world’s top next domino move; raucous destinations for the sport. baseball fans spill out of Estadio The Corn Islands Lake Nicaragua a Quisqueya to celebrate their teams’ Ometepe Island Tayrona NP victories and bemoan their losses; uanacaste people dance, sip sweet coffee and betVolcán on the next cockfight. Arenal Every night the seafront drive – ula Tortuguero Panama the Malecón – becomes a huge, Canal multicoloured disco. The most San Blás riotous celebrations are during the Islands Corcovadomonth-long NP Carnaval, when street Osa Peninsula parties erupt all over theAzuero island, Gulf of Darién culminating in a colourful parade Panama Peninsula through the capital.
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Vital statistics
Capital: Santo Domingo Population: 9 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-4 International dialling code: +1 809 Money: Dominican Republic peso (RD$), currently around RD$60 to the UK£ Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
Pta. Gallinas
When to go
Aruba
A Top 5 experiences
1 Get swept up in the country’s baseball mania at the Estadio Quisqueya in Santo Domingo 2 Go wild for nature at Lake Enriquillo, located in a huge valley that’s the lowest point in the Caribbean for spotting L E S – excellent E R and flamingoes,S crocs A iguanas
NTI
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Netherlands 3 Visit the capital Santo L L Domingo – a blueprint for E S Antilles
Spanish colonial town-building – 1 Rain is most likely between Gulf andCuraçao see the conquistadors’ first of Venezuela Henri May and November, but the cathedral and first paved street Dominican Republic stays at a Pittier Morrocoy an intrepid hiker and balmy 28-31°C throughout the year. 4 Become NP the NP Pico Duarte, tackle The north coast can be wet, and Caribbean’s highest peak, set you might want to avoid August among rugged terrain and September which is the hurricane season. The least humid 5 Hit the rapids white-water time – and the high season – runs rafting on three rivers around Lake November to April the town of Jarabacoa Maracaibo
Pa Penin
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Sierra 8 For more information go to www.lata.org/dominicanrepublic Nevada NP
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Ecuador & the Galapagos A whole world – and two hemispheres – in one
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he phrase ‘small is beautiful’ could have been coined specifically with Ecuador in mind. By South American standards it is tiny and dwarfed by its neighbours Colombia and Peru. But it is this relative compactness that is one of its main attractions. Here, you can watch dawn break over the jungle canopy, have lunch high in the Andean mountains and then watch the sun slip into the Pacific Ocean – all in the same day. The capital city, Quito, is the perfect base from which to explore. Although it stands a mere 23km south of the equator, Quito’s mountain setting means it enjoys a pleasant, spring-like climate all year round. The city has enough to satisfy the culture vulture and hedonistic night owl, and you don’t have to be an architecture buff to appreciate its elegant and beautifully preserved colonial heart, a Unesco World Heritage Site. South of Quito lies some of the finest mountain scenery in Ecuador. The early 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt dubbed this part of the country the “Avenue of the Volcanoes”. An impressive roll call of towering peaks lines the route south:
www.lata.org 35_Ecuador10_thv4 copy.indd 35
Cotopaxi, Chimborazo and Tungurahua, to name a few. The area attracts trekkers and climbers, while the less active can browse through the many colourful Indian markets and colonial towns that nestle among the volcanic cones. On the western side of the Andes lies Ecuador’s coast, so different in atmosphere from the highlands that you could almost be in another country. If your idea of a good time is to lie on a beach all day soaking up rays and partying into the small hours of the morning, then Ecuador’s popular beach resorts are for you. Those who prefer their activity during daylight hours can swim, surf, scuba dive or watch humpback whales1getting it together in the warm waters off the shores of Manabí province. Beautiful woven textiles are produced throughout the northern highlands, often using techniques unchanged for centuries. A few hours north of Quito, the market town of Otavalo is one of Ecuador’s main weaving centres. No visit to Ecuador would be complete without venturing into its steamy jungles. Only a few hours away from Quito, it’s home to all manner of strange and exotic flora and fauna.
I I I
A trip to the Galapagos Islands is an unforgettable experience. 1,000km west of mainland Ecuador, the islands are worldrenowned for their fearless wildlife
– but no amount of hype can prepare the visitor for such close encounters. Snorkel with penguins and sea lions, watch giant tortoises lumbering through cactus forests, go gooey-eyed over your first glimpse of a seal pup and enjoy the courtship displays of the blue-footed booby and frigate bird.
Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: Quito Population: 13.5 million Language: Spanish and Quechua Time: GMT-5 (mainland), GMT-6 (Galapagos) International dialling code: +593 Money: US dollar (US$), currently around US$1.57 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK nationals
1
1
When to go
Ecuador is considered a yearround destination; conditions vary more with altitude and time of day than time of year. The bulk of travellers arrive between June and September when conditions are drier and cooler with occasional fog. Quito and the mountains can be much cooler than the rest of the country due to their position
Top 5 experiences
1 Visit the spot where the equator runs through Ecuador, not far from the capital 2 Climb stunning Mount Cotopaxi, south of Quito, one of the highest active volcanoes in the world, and take in the verdant rolling countryside 3 Fly out to the Galapagos Islands, the premier spot in Latin America to see all sorts of weird and wonderful species of animal in startling close-up 4 Find great bars, excellent cuisine and a wealth of museums in volcano-surrounded capital Quito 5 Explore the thick jungle and adventure sports options around the town of Tena
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/ecuador THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 35
21/1/11 15:57:55
Palenque
Cristóbel El Salvador as Casas
BELIZ
Small is beautiful in this tropical Central American republic
Tikal
Central America Tourism Agency, Centro América; Ed Welham/Journey Latin America
Semuc Champey Lívingsto odos Santos zaltenango Lake Atitlán Antigua GUATEMALA
L
ively and incredibly friendly; packed with volcanoes, rich forests and craggy mountains; fringed by golden beaches and first-class waves which would satisfy the most adventurous surfers and sun-worshippers: El Salvador is Central America’s perfect one-stop destination. Most people have a love-hate relationship with the capital, San Salvador. It retains the charm of the Spanish era – it was one of the first European cities of the New World – but the pollution and modern structures of this crumbling metropolis aren’t to everybody’s taste. But beyond the city there are many compelling reasons for a visit. The northern hills around
GUATEMALA
El Poy and Perquín are a haven for trekkers; Cerro Verde National Park offers dramatic, horizonfilling landscapes filled with hot springs and countless waterfalls; a challenging scrabble across the smoking cinder cone of Izalco volcano is rewarded by beautiful views over Lago de Coatepeque; and who could resist the draw of a national park called El Imposible? To the south, long, sandy beaches prized by surfers for decades stretch along the Costa del Sol to the Gulf of Fonseca, dotted with islets and bays to explore. In the west, wander through coffee plantations, soak up the beauty of the Ruta de las Flores valley or simply laze around, watching the daily display of glorious Pacific sunsets.
1
I I I
HONDURAS
El Poy
El Imposible NP 2
5
Suchitoto
3
Cerro Verde NP
1
SAN SALVADOR
Perquín
4
Lago de Coatepeque
Ruta de Flores
Gulf of Fonseca
PACIFIC OCEAN 0
200km
Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: San Salvador Population: 7 million Language: Spanish, Náhua Time: GMT-6 International dialling code: +503 Money: US dollar ($), currently around US$1.57 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK nationals 1
1
Top 5 experiences
1 Wonder at the historic Maya site of Joya de Cerén, preserved under volcanic ash 2 Go volcano spotting in the Cerro Verde National Park, near the capital, where you’ll be able to see the peaks of Izalco and Santa Ana 3 Don’t be put off by the name – El Imposible, with its tropical forest and plentiful wildlife, is a national park well worth fitting into the itinerary
Tenorio NP G Nicoya Penins
When to go
El Salvador’s temperature is a consistent and comfortable 28°C throughout the year. The rainy season lasts from May to October, although light rain is possible year round. The coast and lowland areas can feel hot and humid, especially between March and May. Take warmer clothes if you intend to spend any time at altitude
4 Get away from it all in the Gulf of Fonseca – here you’ll find scores of secluded beaches and laid-back living 5 Take a dip in one of the hot springs around the edge of Lago de Coatepeque
COSTA R
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/elsalvador 36 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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24/1/11 11:57:56
P A T A G O N I A
Falkland Islands Take the road less travelled and discover the difference…
Comodoro Rivadavia Golfo de San Jorge C. Tres Puntas
uenos
Falkland Islands Tourist Board; Connie Stevens; Allan White
Desea
Chi
do
Puerto Deseado
co
T
Puerto Santa Cruz
he Falkland Islands are an archipelago of more than 740 islands based in the remote South Atlantic Ocean, just 480km east of Patagonia. The Islands are half the size of Wales and boast white sandy beaches, clear turquoise waters and an abundance of native and migratory wildlife – with over 227 species of bird and 14 species of marine mammal on display. The Falkland Islands are a fascinating British outpost and Stanley is a colourful seaside capital, home to 85% of the country’s entire population. Visitors can spend an enjoyable day exploring the town and its many monuments, gaining an insight into the territory’s rich military and maritime history. Locally produced goods like felted wool items and paintings can also be purchased from one of the many retail outlets found along the waterfront and its adjoining streets.
5
Rio Gallegos
0
Strait of Magellan
Cape Horn www.lata.org 37_Falklands Islands10_thv6.indd37 37
1
2 East 3 Hill Cove Falkland 4 West Stanley Falkland Darwin Mt Pleasant Goose Airport Fox Bay Green Port Stephens
Bahia Grande
nta Arenas
SOUTH ATLANTIC OCEAN
Sheep farming is still the primary way of life for those living outside Stanley and visitors can take a light aircraft or hire a guide to reach these outlying islands and settlements – many of which are rich in waterfowl and small bird species. The beaches also grow crowded each spring with breeding elephant seals 1 and sea lions, while killer whales (orca) and dolphins patrol the shallows. Popular excursions include guided 4WD treks, round-robin flights and boat excursions to local wildlife hotspots to view endangered species such as the black-browed albatross, as well as endemic species like Cobb’s wren and up to five breeding species of penguin. Most major points of interest and key destinations are accessible by air or road, with a ferry service also available between East and West Falkland.
100km
Essentials Vital statistics
Capital: Stanley Population: 3,000 Language: English Time: GMT-4 (September-April; GMT-3 for the rest of the year) International dialling code: +500 Money: Falkland Island pound (£), equal to the UK£, also legal tender Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
Top 5 experiences
1 Try island hopping – via the Government Air Service – and fly out to the Pebble Island beaches and look for semi-precious stones
Tierra del Fuego I C. San Diego I
I
as P ke a r D
1
When to go
The Falkland’s climate is comparable to parts of the UK: cool and oceanic with persistent winds. October to April is the best time to visit, when the weather is settled, and migratory birds and mammals return to the islands to give birth. The average maximum temperature in summer (December to February) is 15°C
e g sa
2 From the capital, head out to Volunteer Point and experience the most accessible king penguin colony in the world 3 Cough up a few quid for a pint in a Stanley pub and dream of the Motherland – a slice of British life in the South Atlantic Enjoy the outstanding, scenic fishing opportunities by casting your line for mullet around Goose Green and Darwin
4
5 Grab your camera and island hop to Saunders Island to take amazing photographs of the black-browed albatross
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/falklands THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 37
21/1/11 16:05:25
BARBUDA ST. KITTS AND NEVIS
DOMINICA ST. LUCIA
ST. VINCENT
BARBADOS GRENADA
ES Wilderness Explorers
ARACAS ncia
PORT OF SPAIN
Tobago
Paria Trinidad Peninsula
French Guiana Delta del Orinoco
UELA o Orinoc
F
Br
an
co
rench Guiana, or Guyane Angel (‘gwee-ahn’), is an overseas Falls department of France. The capital, Cayenne, Roraima which sits Mount on a peninsula at the mouth of a river of the same name, N A was founded by French H Itraders in GtakesH the 17th century, but actually its name from an Amerindian prince. The country is still heavily dependent on its guardian nation for investment and tourism – almost all of the 10,000 travellers who reach French Guiana each year are French or Belgian. Although tourism is in its infancy, nature-loving travellers can find adventure all over this little-knownNcorner e g of Latin America, blanketed r oby thick, lush, undisturbed rainforests. St-Laurent du Maroni, close to the western border with
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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Awala-Yalimopo
3
2
Îles du Salut Kourou Voltaire 5 Falls CAYENNE
Saül
SURINAME
BRAZIL
Essentials Vital statistics
Top 5 experiences Macapá Sail out to Devil’s Island, site
Capital: Cayenne Population: 220,000 Language: French Time: GMT-3 International dialling code: +594 Money: Euro (€), currently around n €1.10 to the UK£ a z o m A by UK Visas: Not required nationals 1
1
1
of a former penal colony. Henri Charrière claimed to have escaped from here in the 1940s, and went on to write Papillon
I. de Marajó
When to go
Due to its equatorial position, French Guiana is humid, with an average temperature of 28°C, changing little throughout the year. The rainy season runs December to June, while it’s dry and less humid between July and November (the driest month is September). As French Guiana is in the tropics expect rain at any time
Belém
3 Gawp at virgin rainforest and the impressive Voltaire Falls near the Surinamese border 4 Take in the awe-inspiring tropical scenery by kayaking or canoeing down the Maroni river, near the village of Terre Rouge 5 Enjoy excellent cuisine and fine wines in cosmopolitan capital Cayenne
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/frenchguiana
Z
B. de Mara
2 Dream about launching into orbit at the Centre Spatial Guyanais, an important space centre in Kourou, around 60km from the capital
gu
A
I I I
St-Laurent du Maroni
Tocantins
Manaus
ATLANTIC OCEAN
200km
Xin
Suriname, is home to the Voltaire Falls. Just a further 7km south is the Amerindian village of Terre Rouge – hire a canoe for day trips up the Maroni River. Hungry visitors taking a short drive south out of Cayenne can grab a genuine taste of Laos Central L A of Cacao’s courtesy N DSunday S market – the whole town was Suriname established Nature Reserve by Hmong refugees in the 1970s. Expect a reasonable crowd at the Centre Spatial Guyanais, a space centre in Kourou, 60km northwest of the capital. Here you can learn everything you ever wanted to know about rockets at the Space Museum, and maybe even catch a dramatic launch. Offshore are the Îles du Salut, site of a notorious former penal settlement, closed in the 1950s. Today, monkeys, turtles, macaws and coconut1 palms are the only inhabitants. Devil’s Island was considered to be the most secure and inaccessible islet of the settlement: the only prisoner to escape (at least according to himself ) was Henri Charrière – aka Papillon – who in 1944 floated all the way to Venezuela on a raft of s coconuts. Charrière’s alleged route jó took him further up the coast a to p Awala-Yalimopo where now a you T might catch a glimpse of giant leatherbacks laying their eggs in the moonlight, or tiny young turtles wiggling their way back to the sea.
GUYANA
Galibi Nature Reserve
0
i
Orin oco
Ciudad Ciudad Guayana A Bolivar tiny outpost of ‘la belle France’ in the tropics GEORGETOWN
Maron
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TRINIDAD & TOBAGO
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21/1/11 16:08:19
nde Gra Rio
Chihuahua
Austin Houston
Baton Rouge
Guatemala
opper anyon
New Orleans
San Antonio
Mississippi Delta
Volcanic might and turtle power Torreón
Monterrey
Tampico
ajara
VERACRUZ Mérida
Teotihuacán iStockphoto
MICHOACÁN
G
Acapulco
GULF OF MEXICO Further south, blankets of white sand coat the Caribbean coast near Livingston, while on the black-sand Pacific coast, turtles and fabulous orange sunsets are an unforgettable feature at Monterrico. Let the roar of the howler monkeys and the flash of the rare scarlet macaw grab your attention in the Petén region.
Oaxaca
4
Tikal
MEXICO 1
Capital: Guatemala City Population: 14 million Language: Spanish Time: GMT-6 International dialling code: +502 Money: Quetzal (Q), currently around Q12 to the UK£ Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
1
When to go
Climate varies with altitude, but the driest time is November to April. The coast is, by and large, hot all year round. The country’s average year-round temperature is 20°C, but highs can easily be in the late 30s. The highlands have pleasantly warm days and cool nights – in December and January there may be frost in the early morning at the highest elevations
Top 5 experiences
1 Dust off your trekking boots and head for the mountain city of Quetzaltenango 2 Barter your way around buzzing Chichicastenango market, which takes place twice weekly, selling everything from pottery to handicrafts 3 Contemplate the power of nature when wandering around the earthquake-prone colonial ruins of Antigua, a breathtaking setting for a Unesco-recognised city 4 Head to the northern jungle lowlands around Tikal to experience the country’s best Maya archaeological sites 5 Keep an eye out for toucans and howler monkeys as you float down the lush Rio Dulce
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/guatemala www.lata.org 39_Guatemala10_thv4.indd 39
PACIFIC OCEAN 0
Lake 3 Atitlán Antigua
BELIZE
Flores 5
CARIBBEAN SEA
2
Livingston
Quetzaltenango
Essentials Vital statistics
etén
uatemala, bordering four Central American countries, is a land of kaleidoscopic colour. The red lava tongues of its volcanoes contrast with the shadows of caves in the southern Petén region, believed to lead into a mysterious underworld, jagged with stalactites and stalagmites.
Tulum
MEXICO CITY
El P
I I I
Leon
GUATEMALA CITY
HONDURAS
Monterrico 200km
Completing this work of art are incredible fiestas: cultural celebrations with vibrant costumes, elaborate masks and carpets of brightly-coloured flowers. At Easter, cities are shrouded in incense as centuriesold rituals take place in the streets. Antigua, a cultural sideshow to the capital, lies in the shadow of three volcanoes. It’s a colonial treasure whose architecture graphically demonstrates the legacy of an 18th-century earthquake, and its cobbled streets are lined with pastel-coloured homes. The majestic cities of the Maya, such as Tikal, lie buried deep in
EL SALVADOR the northern jungles. NICARAGUA Huge stelae – stone monuments carved with inscriptions – reveal clues about the ancient Maya inhabitants. Venture further into the Western Highlands to explore markets and traditional villages. The Tz’utujil Maya live on the shore of Lake Atitlán, which they believe to be the birthplace of creation – in fact, it was formed by an explosion which blew the lid off an ancient volcano. Numerous other Maya villages, all named after Catholic saints, nestle around Atitlán’s shore – a rewarding three-day trek from the city of Quetzaltenango.
Ruta de Flores
Granad
MANAGUA
Volcán Masaya
Lak
Omet Guanacaste
Tenorio NP Nicoya Peninsula Jacó
SAN COSTA RICA Manuel Antonio NP
Corcovado N Osa Penins
THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 39
21/1/11 16:10:59
Guyana
Fotonatura; John Gimlette
A totally tropical call of the wild
EZ
Matthews Ridge
Mount Roraima
Bartica
3
Orinduik Falls
Lethem
1 4 GEORGETOWN
Kaieteur NP
Kaieteur Falls
Turtle Mountain
5
Iwokrama Reserve
Annai
ME
Savannahs Camp of the Rupununi Jaguar
NA
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2 0
300km
BRAZIL
Essentials Vital statistics
1
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RI
backdrop of the grass-covered Pakaraima Mountains stretches westwards to the highest peak in Guyana – Mount Roraima – shared with Venezuela and Brazil. If your sense of adventure was tickled by the Lost Land Of The Jaguar documentary, visit the remote Amerindian community of Rewa. Take the two-three hour journey from Annai to the lodge and enjoy some beautiful scenery and wildlife along the way.
ATLANTIC OCEAN
A
SU
avenues and canals follow the layout of the old sugar estates. Whitepainted, wooden 19th-century houses are raised on stilts and flowering trees line the streets. At dusk, the sea wall is crowded with strollers, while at Easter the area becomes a mass of colourful kites. The thinly populated interior is almost untouched and rivers are often the only way to get around. Highlights include Kaieteur Falls – almost five times the height of Niagara, with a single sheer drop of 228m – and Orinduik Falls, where the river pours over steps and terraces of jasper. Here, the
EL
a im s ra in ka nta Pa ou M
G
uyana is truly a wild frontier – a land of few roads, pristine forests and eco-tourism opportunities aplenty. The coastal region is dominated by a mixture of coconut palms, calypso music, Dutch drainage systems, Hindu temples, rice and Demerara sugar. Leaving the sea behind, Guyana is a land of waterfalls and rainforest, giving way to wildlife-rich savannas and isolated ranches. The capital, Georgetown, is known as the ‘Garden City’ of the Caribbean, despite actually being on the Atlantic. Its wide, tree-lined
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Capital: Georgetown Population: 770,000 Language: English, Creole, Hindi and Urdu Time: GMT-4 International dialling code: +592 Money: Guyanese dollar (G$), currently around G$320 to the UK£ Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
1
When to go
Guyana – a country roughly the size of Britain – has temperatures that stay around 24-31ºC. It’s warm, without being unbearable, throughout the year. The two wet seasons extend from May to August and from December to January. Expect around eight hours of sunshine a day in the dry season
Top 5 experiences
1 Visit a rum distillery in Georgetown before trying your hand at playing the steel pans with Roy Geddes at his dedicated school and museum 2 Delve deep into the interior to spot giant river otters, massive water lilies and other amazing wildlife in the savannahs of the Rupununi 3 Watch the swifts dart in and out of the thundering, rainbowsplashed waters of Kaieteur Falls and gaze down the mighty gorge 4 Take in Parrot Island’s sunset display of parrots, near Baganara Island Resort 5 Travel to Rewa to wave goodbye to civilization and say hello to pristine rainforests, mountains and wildlife-rich oxbow lakes
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/guyana 40 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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pi
A M E R I C A
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Nashville
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Honduras Oklahoma City
Little Rock
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O F
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Red
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Central America’s road less travelled – and a diver’s delight
Dallas
Colora
do
G Rio
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Austin Houston
de ran Mario Urrutia/Fotografo Hondureño; iStockphoto.com
Baton Rouge
Tallahassee New Orleans
San Antonio
Tampa Monterrey
GULF OF MEXICO
H
onduras is the second-largest country in Central America but its population is no larger than that of neighbouring El Salvador, which is the region’s smallest. The capital, Tegucigalpa, is a chaotic celebration of colonial
architecture. The mountainous interior, meanwhile, is firmly off the beaten track – a haven for trekking, hiking and birdwatching. Hillsides are dotted with tiny communities and, close to the Guatemalan border, the Copán ruins mark the southernmost tip of the Maya empire.
Tampico
VERACRUZ
Teotihuacán
HOACÁN Essentials MEXICO CITY Vital statistics
pulco
Montgomery
Mississippi Delta
Leon
I I I
Jackson
Atlanta
Capital: Tegucigalpa Population: 7.5 million Language: Spanish and English Time: GMT-6 International dialling code: +504 Money: Lempira (L), currently around L30 to the UK£ Visas: Not required by UK nationals 1
Oaxaca
1
When to go
Tegucigalpa’s temperatures hover between highs of around 25°C and 33°C, although in winter it can get as low as 4°C, due to the altitude. The lowlands range from 20°C to 37°C. Rain falls year round inland and on the Caribbean side, the dry season runs from February to June, while August to December sees the heaviest rains
Top 5 experiences
1 Wander the lesser-trodden path in the steamy, wildliferich rainforests of La Moskitia
Palenque San Cristóbel de las Casas
2 Enjoy some retail therapy in the modern shopping malls of capital city Tegucigalpa before checking out the colonial buildings in the old sector 3 Explore the turquoise waters around the Bay Islands. Go diving here – it’s still one of the cheapest places in the world to learn how
Todos Santos Quetzaltenango of beer Antigua 4 Enjoy an ice-cold glass
from a bed & breakfast – complete with micro-brewery – on the edge of Lagoa de Yojoa
5 Unearth historic Maya treasures at Copán – they’re still discovering new pieces
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/honduras
Resting off the Caribbean coast, the Bay Islands bask under sunny skies and are one of the cheapest places in the world to learn to dive. Unwind to Caribbean rhythms on endless beaches, snorkel in the pristine waters or hop over to the mainland to explore the thriving market towns of the northern coast or the cloud forests of Pico Bonito National Park. One of Latin America’s best-kept secrets, you’ll find the villages quiet and the hillside paths less travelled – Honduras gives travellers the perfect opportunity to flex their adventurous spirit while relaxing in styleMatEthe X Isame C O time.
Tr
Mérida
Yucatan Peninsula
Tulum
CARIBBEAN SEA
BELIZE
3
Bay Islands
GUATEMALA
San Pedro Sula
La Ceiba 1
4
5
Copán Gracias
La Moskitia
Lake Yojoa TEGUCIGALPA
EL SALVADOR
PACIFIC OCEAN
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2
NICARAGUA 0
200km
THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 41
Tenorio NP
Ometepe Island Guanacaste 21/1/11 16:17:19
Mexico
Montreal ss
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Cape Cod
Providence
New York Trenton
WASHINGTON
Dover
Indianapolis Charleston
St. Louis
Richmond
U N I T E D S T A T E S O F A M E R I C A
Raleigh
Hermosillo Chihuahua
Savannah
Ri
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Orlando
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Monterrey
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GULF OF MEXICO
CUBA
Santiago de Cuba Teotihuacán
KINGSTON
JAMAICA
TEGUCIGALPA Suchitoto SAN SALVADOR Leon Granada MANAGUA
NICARAGUA Pta. Gallinas
Lake Nicaragua The Corn Islands Volcán Masaya Ometepe Island Tenorio NP Guanacaste Volcán Arenal Nicoya Peninsula Jacó Tortuguero Portobello
Corcovado NP Osa Peninsula
PANAMA
Azuero Gulf of Darién Peninsula Panama
Sierra Nevada NP
Ciudad Ciudad Guayana Bolivar
Orinoco
O
GEORGETOWN
N a et
Top 5 experiences COLOMBIA Armenia Buenaventura Cali
M
BOGOTÁ Ibagué
PARAMARIBO Angel Falls Brownsb Raleighvallen NP Nature Reserve U I Mount Roraima Volt A N Fa A H I G H Central L A N Orin D S Suriname Awarrada oco Nature Reserve
GUYANA
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1 Gawp at the sheer beauty of the Sian Ka’an Ecological ECUADOR Reserve on the Caribbean coast Nevado del Huila
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San Agustín
Br
Punta Galera
QUITO
Ca
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Chimborazo
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2 Explore the wild highlands of Chiapas – the Zapatista heartland – and the beautiful colonial town of San P E Cristóbal R U de las Casas
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Noel Kempff Mercado NP
Cuiabá
Sorata
Nevado Ancohume
Volcán El Misti
PLANAL MATO G
Corioco LA PAZ Cochabamba
Santa Cruz
Sucre
Potosí
Salar de Uyuni NP
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IN
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Par
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A DE COR D
Lag
Cordoba
Concordia
Colonia del Sacramento S BUENOS AIRES R i o d MONTEVID e L a P La Plata Punta d lata
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Bahia Blanca
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Viedma Golfo San Matias
Bariloche
Puerto Montt
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Rawson
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Isla de Chiloé
Cabo Corrientes
Co l o ra d o
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Valdivia Pta. de la Galera
Pta. Norte
Cabo San Antoni
Mar del Plata
Bahia Blanca
do
Pta. Lavapié
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URUGUAY
Paraná
Rosario
San Rafael
Chillán Concepción
Pelo Neg
Santa Fe
Mendoza City
C. Carranza
Santa Maria
Mar Chiquito
SIERR
5 Visit the Monte Alban ruins just outside the cultured town A R of Oaxaca, south of the capital
San Ignacio Guazú
Corrientes
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Cerro Aconcagua
Valparaiso SANTIAGO
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Pta. Lengua de Vaca
Reprêsa Ilha Grande
PARAGUAY
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San Miguel de Tucumán
Nevado Ojos del Salado
Copiapó
Be r
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Volcán Llullaillaco
Camp The Chaco
Concepción Esteros de Iberá
N
MA DESERT
4 Take the Ferrocarril Chihuahua al Pacífico for a 16-hour crossCHILE country rail-journey through the rugged sights of Copper Canyon Coquimbo
O
Lake Poopó
A
ATA C A
O A N P L T I A L
Oruro
Arica
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/mexico
re
Paranating
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3 Dive headfirst into the chaos B O L I V I A and congestion of Mexico City, one of Latin America’s most vibrant PACIFIC OCEAN cities for going out – from street corner taquerías to high-end clubs Pen. Paracas
Nevado Ampato
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os
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Gu
Machu Picchu Cusco
Colca Canyon
a
in
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Huancayo
Nasca Lines Nasca
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There’s virtually no rain in October and April. August is busy, as is the Day of the Dead (early November). Mexico City can get cool in winter while weather patterns differ on the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean and Pacific. Watch out for hurricane season between June and November
Maracaibo
Medellin Manizales
S
When to go
BARBADOS GRENADA
PORT OF SPAIN Paria Trinidad Peninsula
VENEZUELA
ANDE
1
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Vital statistics
LESSE R AN TIL Netherlands LE S Antilles
Aruba Gulf of Venezuela
Barranquilla Pittier Morrocoy NP CARACAS NP Cartagena Ciudad Perdida Maracaibo Panamá Viejo Valencia (The Lost City) Barquisimeto San Blás PANAMA Islands Lake
Cabo Corrientes
Capital: Mexico City Population: 109 million Languages: Spanish Time: GMT-6 (early April-late October GMT-5); some states GMT-7 or GMT-8 International dialling code: +52 Money: Mexican peso (MX$), currently around MX$20 to the UK£ Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
ST. LUCIA
gu ay
COSTA RICA SAN JOSÉ
Manuel Antonio NP
Panama Canal
Tayrona NP
DOMINICA
S E A
m
Essentials
C A R I B B E A N
ST. KITTS AND NEVIS
A
Ruta de Flores
ANTIGUA AND BARBUDA
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
L
Monterrico
Cerro Verde NP El Imposible NP
PUERTO RICO
Jarabocoa Samaná Los Haitises NP SANTO DOMINGO
Mount Pico Duarte
Pa ra
BELIZE
GUATEMALA EL SALVADOR
HAITI
PORT-AU-PRINCE
Li
MEXICO CITY Taxco Oaxaca Acapulco San Cristóbal de las Casas
Trinidad
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Mérida Chichén Itzá Tulum 2 1 Palenque
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PACIFIC OCEAN
3
BAHAMAS
Cauca
Guadalajara León
Miami
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Jacksonville
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Copper Canyon
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Cape Fear
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silverwork. Further afield, there are excellent markets in Oaxaca and around the beautiful town of San Cristóbal de las Casas in the Chiapas highlands. Adventurers flock to Mexico to climb the volcanic peaks, to descend into the deepest potholes or to spill down the white waters of the Antigua and Pescado rivers. The Caribbean offers superb diving off the Quintana Roo coastline, while on the west coast surfers ride the giant rollers beside the beautiful beaches of the wild Pacific and Baja California. Inland, in northern Mexico, the Copper Canyon attracts hardy climbers and is the start of the famous Chihuahua to Pacific Railway, one of the world’s great train rides. In the far north-west, the Sea of Cortéz is one of the planet’s richest marine feeding 1 grounds, where you might spot hammerhead sharks, dolphins and California grey whales. In the far south is the Sian Ka’an Ecological Reserve – a savannah, mangrove and marine habitat hosting hundreds of species including big cats, crocodiles, monkeys and manatees. Then there’s the wonderfully diverse – and ludicrously spicy – food. And surely no one in their right mind could resist a wellmixed margarita cocktail?
Boston
Hartford Harrisburg
Columbus Ark
Los Angeles
Concord
Albany
Detroit Chicago
Lincoln
Denver
Cape Sable
Montpelier Toronto
Lansing
Des Moines Las Vegas
Pt. Arguello
L.M ichi
Madison
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Mt. Whitney
Halifax
Augusta
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Salt Lake City
pi
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San Francisco
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Sacramento
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SIERRA NEVA
F
rom the vivid wall paintings at Bonampak to the mighty temples of Chichén Itzá, and from the bizarre Olmec heads in Veracruz to the heart of jungleswathed Palenque, the sheer variety of archaeological sites in Mexico is astounding. Add to this the brilliance of the Caribbean, huge canyons and dense jungles – and you have an invigorating cocktail of culture and landscapes. Mexico City is among the world’s largest metropolises. Congested, polluted and gloriously manic, the capital was originally founded by the Aztecs; the remains of Templo Mayor, the pyramid at the heart of their city of Tenochtitlán – ‘place of the prickly pear cactus’ – today lies beside a massive colonial plaza, lit by the glow of neon lights. Beyond the capital, the pace slows. Colonial cities, founded on the wealth of silver mines, rest assuredly on their architectural laurels. Within easy striking distance of Mexico City, the lakes and volcanic hills of Michoacán are another world: people quietly go about their business as they always have: fishing, farming and producing crafts for sale at the local markets. Two hours south of the capital, the town of Taxco has a sterling reputation for refined
L.Sup erior
Bismarck
Boise Cape Mendocino
ro
www.edstocker.com
Variety is the spice of life
C. Quilán
Archipelago de Los chonos
PACIFIC OCEAN
Golfo de Penas
P A T A G O N I A
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42 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
Chi
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Isla Wellington
Comodoro Rivadavia
Lago Buenos Aires Desea
do
Golfo de San Jorge C. Tres Puntas
Puerto Deseado
co
Puerto Santa Cruz
West Sparrow Falkland Cove Kidney Cove
24/1/11Rio Gallegos 17:12:10 Bahia Grande
Archipelago Reina adelaide
Strait of Magellan
Goose Green
Stanley
East Falkland Sea Lion Island
FALKLAND/MAL
Nashville
Oklahoma City
iss
ip
nix
a am
Jackson
Cape Fear
Atlanta
Montgomery
Austin Houston
G Rio
Baton Rouge Chihuahua Bad press conceals one of the Americas’ best-kept secrets
Savannah
Tallahassee Jacksonville
New Orleans
San Antonio
de ran
Copper Canyon
Columbia
ab
Dallas
do
mosillo
Al
iudad Juárez
Colora
Cape Hattera
Mi
Nicaragua Red
El Paso
Raleigh
ss
Little Rock
Mississippi Delta
Orlando Tampa
Torreón
BAHAM
M E X I C O HAVANA
Tampico Leon
VERACRUZ
Oaxaca
icaragua is a friendly and peaceful country that has received some negative press over the years. But maybe that’s not such a bad thing – Nicaragua has managed to preserve its authenticity and character without being swamped by tourists. The largest country in Central America, Nicaragua offers both natural and cultural gems, a testament to a turbulent but fascinating history. On its Pacific side, where most of the population now live, the major colonial influence was Spanish, while the Caribbean coast was dominated by the British – then there were the years of US-sponsored conflict.
San Cristóbel de las Casas
Santiago de Cuba
Tulum
PORT-AU-P
Palenque
JAMAICA
Tikal BELIZE
Todos Santos GUATEMALA Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán With its volcanoes Antigua and the massive inland Lake Nicaragua, the GUATEMALA Pacific lowlands are stunningly Monterrico
HONDURAS
EL Verde NP CARIBBEAN beautiful. Ometepe Cerro Island, which 3 SALVADOR El Imposible NP SEA Matagalpa 2 lies in the lake, is the largest León MANAGUA freshwater island in the world, Bluefields Pt Corn Islands 1 P A C I F I C Granada dominated by the Concepción and Ometepe Island OCEAN Tayrona NP 4 5 Lake Nicaragua Maderas volcanoes. Regular ferries Barranquilla 0 200km head to this largely unspoilt jewel. COSTA RICA PortobelloCartagena Elsewhere, in the city of León Ciudad Panamá Viejo you’ll find old colonial buildings, Panama SAN JOSÉ (The Lo San Blás Canal while the beaches along the Pacific Manuel Antonio NP Islands PANAMA Corcovado NP coast are quiet and perfect for Osa Peninsula Azuero Gulf of Darién watersports and swimming. Off the Peninsula Panama Caribbean coast, the Corn Islands Vital statistics Top 5 experiences were once a base for British Capital: Managua 1 Take in the awesome views of buccaneers, but sandy beaches Population: 5.7 million Lake Nicaragua from the Medellin and clear blue seas now make them Language: Spanish and English colonial splendour of Granada, Cabo Corrientes Manizale an ideal destination for snorkelling Time: GMT-6 (mid-April to early the oldest continually inhabitedPereira October GMT-5) mainland town in the Americas and diving. BOG Nevado del Tolima
Essentials PANAMA
1
I I I
International dialling code: +505 Money: Córdoba (C$), currently around C$34 to the UK£ Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals
1
When to go
November and December are good months to visit. The dry season lasts from December to May, although temperatures get very hot in April and May. June to October are the wettest months. Due to the country’s tropical climate, there are no huge temperature fluctuations and it remains warm year-round
Armenia Pick out some locally-made Buenaventura handicrafts to take home in the artisanal town of MasayaCali Nevado del Huila 3 Get swept up by the party atmosphere San in national capital Agustín Managua on 19 July when the country celebrates the Sandinista Punta Galera revolution of 1979 2
COL Neiva
ECUADOR
ANDE
THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 43 M O Punta Aguja
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Chiclayo
UN
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Ibagué
QUITO 4 Watch the orange sun make its slow descent from the perfect sand beaches of San Juan del Sur – turtles nest nearby Chimborazo Guayaquil 5 Take advantage of the isolated coastline of the GulfCaribbean of Guayaquil idyllic Corn Islands
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/nicaragua www.lata.org
KINGSTON
na
N
Yucatan Peninsula
MEXICO CITY
le
Acapulco
CUBA
Trinidad Mérida
Teotihuacán
MICHOACÁN
Varadero
Cauca
Guadalajara
orrientes
Miami
GULF OF MEXICO
Magda
Dreamstime.com; Nicaragua Tourist Board/JLA; Nicaragua Tourism Institute
Monterrey
21/1/11 16:30:02
I
HAVANA
co
Varadero
CUBA
Trinidad Mérida Yucatan Peninsula
San Cristóbel de las Casas
Santiago de Cuba
Tulum
PORT-AU-PRINC
Palenque Tikal
HA
KINGSTON
JAMAICA
BELIZE
Dreamstime.com; Centro América
Semuc Todos Santos Champey Lívingston The Bay Islands Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán Copán La Mosquitia Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa Gracias GUATEMALA TEGUCIGALPA Monterrico Suchitoto Cerro Verde NP SAN El Imposible NP SALVADOR Leon Granada Ruta de Flores MANAGUA
MALA
HONDURAS
Panama A
EL SALVADOR
NICARAGUA
Lake Nicaragua Volcán Masaya
Pta. Ga
The Corn Islands
Navigate a ditch, wander Ometepe a gap and try everything in-between Island Jacó SAN JOSÉ
I I I
44 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
COSTA 5 RICA
Bocas del Toro
CARIBBEAN SEA Panama Canal
0
200km
4 Portobelo
2 San Blas Islands
3 PANAMA
Baru Volcano 1
Azuero Peninsula
Gulf of Panama
PACIFIC OCEAN
Darien Gap
COLOMBIA
Essentials
Cabo Corrientes
Vital statistics
Pereira
Top 5 experiences
Nevado del Tolima
Medellin Manizales
BOGOTÁ Ibagué
Capital: Panama City 1 Go white-water rafting in Population: 3.2 million Chiriquí for a boulder-strewn Languages: Spanish, English adventure down the rapids and 14 local languages 2 Take your time choosing Time: GMT-5 which of the nearly 400 International dialling code: +507 Nevado delCaribbean Huila islas to visit in gorgeous Money: Balboa (B), equivalent to the San Blas Islands, stretching the US dollar, currently around southwards towards Colombia US$1.57 to the UK£ 3 Visit the ‘Big Ditch’ itself – it Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals would be rude not to. The Panama Canal is surprisingly Punta Galera When to go beautiful and a mean feat of 1 Temperatures stay around engineering prowess 30°C all year, dropping to the low 20s at night. Rainfall, however, 4 Succumb to your inner retail junkie and head to Colón, the varies. Rain is scarce on the Pacific second-largest tax-free shopping side from December to April – and zone in the world this tends to be the most popular time that people visit – but short, 5 Share the sand with diverse heavy afternoon downpours occur wildlife on the offshore islands daily on the Caribbean sideChimborazo of Bocas del Toro
Armenia Buenaventura Cali
Neiva
San Agustín
QUITO
ECUADOR
Guayaquil
information go to www.lata.org/panama 8 For more Gulf of
Guayaquil
www.lata.org
AN
44_Panama10_thv5.indd 44
Barranquil Cartagena Ciudad Perd (The Lost C
Guanacaste
greatest short cut, raisingArenal oceant the crossroads of the Volcán going liners 26m to Lake Gatun on Americas, Panama can Nicoya Peninsula the 80km voyage between the be heady stuff indeed – Caribbean and the Pacific. but years of occupation On the Caribbean coast, and the ‘Big Ditch’ are not its only Portobelo NP hosted flamboyant 16thclaim to fame. There are Manuel Antonio Corcovado NP and 17th-century markets, where unexplored coral reefs, minute Osa Peninsula frogs in red, orange and yellow, the fortified warehouses filled with Peruvian gold and silver were intriguing archipelago of San Blas, guarded against pirate raids – vast stretches of cool highlands though today you’ll only find quiet, and thundering rivers. beautiful beaches. Panama City is a curious blend The archipelago of San Blas – of old Spain and modern America. containing nearly 400 islands – is The rubble and ruins of Panamá a string of islands stretching Viejo (the old centre) lie to the east towards the Colombian border, – the tale of its sacking in 1671 by Henry Morgan is the stuff of pirate inhabited by indigenous Kuna Indians. Spend a few nights here legend. Spreading inland from the Gulf of Panama, the modern centre enjoying the simpler things in life. Further east still, the Darien Gap lies at the Pacific end of the was, until recently, almost Panama Canal, surrounded by completely impenetrable but parts palm-fringed beaches and rolling of the rainforest wilderness are hills. The canal is both an engineering marvel and the world’s now opening up to the most adventurous1 travellers. On the Pacific, the Azuero Peninsula is dotted with old colonial towns, surfing beaches and nature reserves hosting wetland birds and nesting turtles. Head inland to the Chiriquí Highlands to hike up Baru volcano, explore coffee fincas or laze away days fishing or riding. The virgin rainforests and reefs of the Bocas del Toro have been called the new Galapagos – a fragile paradise rapidly becoming an iconic travel destination.
Cauca
Tenorio NP
Tayrona NP
21/1/11 16:32:50
The Bay Islands Todos Santos Champey Lívingston Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán Copán La Mosquitia Lake Yojoa Antigua ruins Gracias GUATEMALA TEGUCIGALPA Monterrico Suchitoto Cerro Verde NP SAN El Imposible NP SALVADOR Leon Granada Ruta de Flores MANAGUA
HONDURAS
C A R I B B E A N
S E A
ST. LUCIA
GUATEMALA
Paraguay NICARAGUA
The Corn Islands
Curaçao Henri
PORT OF SPAIN
Barranquilla Pittier Morrocoy NP CARACAS NP Cartagena Portobello Ciudad Perdida Maracaibo Panama Panamá Viejo Valencia Canal (The Lost City) San Blás Barquisimeto PANAMA Islands Lake
PANAMA
Azuero Gulf of Darién Peninsula Panama
Maracaibo
O
GEORGETOWN
N M
BOGOTÁ Ibagué
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Raleighvallen Nature Reserve U I Mount Roraima A N A H I G H Central L A N Orin D S Suriname Awarradam oco Nature Reserve
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Noel Kempff Mercado NP
Cuiabá
Sorata Nevado Ancohume
Volcán El Misti
BRASÍLIA
PLANALTO DE MATO GROSSO
Corioco LA PAZ
Goiân
Oruro
IA
Defensores del Chaco NP
5
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São P
Ciudad del Este
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Concepción Tinfunqué NP
0
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a taste for mate (a tea-likePoopó drink also Salar de Uyuni NP popular in Argentina, Uruguay and southern Brazil) – the locals love it even more than the British love a Antofagasta cuppa. It’s such a way of life here that it is not unusualVolcán to see a biker Llullaillaco speeding on his mean machine, Thermos under one arm, mate Nevado Ojos gourd in hand, pouring as he rides. del Salado Copiapó ATA C A
A DE COR D
OB
Essentials
Coquimbo
San Juan
AND
Pta. Lengua de Vaca
Santa Maria
SIERR
Vital statistics
Mar Chiquito
Cab
Pôrto Alegre
Lagôa dos Patos
Cordoba
Concordia
Pelotas
TopSanta 5 experiences Fe URUGUAY Paraná Catch a live performance of Neg
ro
Rio Grande
Lagôa Mirim Capital: Asunción Mendoza City 1 Rosario Colonia del Valparaiso Sacramento Population: 6.8 million Paraguay’s unique music style Santa Teresa NP Ri SANTIAGO BUENOS AIRES MONTEVIDEO o PAMPAS de La Languages: Spanish and Guaraní in an AsunciónLabar Plat Plata Punta del Este a San Rafael Time: GMT-4 (mid-October to mid2 Wander tropical rainforest, Pta. Norte Carranza March C.GMT-3) swim in waterfalls and watch Cabo San Antonio Chillán International dialling code: +595 the sun set on a boat cruise down Concepción Mar del Plata Money: Guaraní (Gs), currently Bahia Blanca Pta. Lavapié the Paraná river, alongCabo the border Corrientes Co l o ra d o around Gs7,200 to the UK£ with Argentina Bahia Blanca Negro Visas: 1 Not required by UK nationals 3 Shop till you drop in Ciudad Valdivia delViedma Este, known for its cheap When de la Galerato go Golfo San Matias electronic goods, before crossing 1 Pta.Visit in winter (MayBariloche to Puerto Montt Peninsula Valdés the border into Brazil or Argentina September) – the rest of the year Isla de to Rawson see Iguaça/Iguazú Falls can get unbearably hot (35ºC). Chiloé C. Quilán You’re also likely to encounter 4 Explore Paraguay’s Jesuit history in towns like Trinidad more rain at the hottest time of Comodoro Rivadavia and the Jesuit Museum at San year when storms Archipelago de are frequent Lago Buenos Golfo de San Jorge Los chonos Ignacio Guazú Aires is (the wettest month of the year C. Tres Puntas Desea do January). The hottest part of the Come face-to-face with jaguar, Deseado 5Puerto de country is theGolfo north, which lies leopard and tapir in the Penas entirely in the tropics Chi sizeable Chaco region co
Cerro Aconcagua
Sa
la
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Lake Titicaca
Arica
n air of mystery hangs P A C I F I COutside O C E the A Ncapital of Asunción, head to the south where the over this little-known remains of mission settlements pocket of South built by the Jesuits in the 18th America, a country century lie among lush, tropical of farmland, forest and folklore. forest near the banks of the Río It’s often assumed that the Spanish and Portuguese conquered Paraná. Vestiges of the fine craftsmanship of the Guaraní all of South America, yet in Paraguay events took a strange turn Indians who followed the missions are scattered around the towns of when the Guaraní Indians Trinidad and Jesús, where a Jesuit absorbed a Spanish expedition led mission – its work curtailed by the by Pedro de Mendoza into their expulsion of its missionaries in culture, creating a hybrid society. 1767 – has been almost fully Its music, too, marks it apart reconstructed. The Jesuit Museum from its neighbours – instead of at San Ignacio Guazú is a testament the grinding rhythms of salsa or to their work, arguably one of the tango, Paraguay prefers to sway to most significant social experiments sentimental love songs and on the continent. European dances accompanied by In the north and west, the virtuoso harp players, guitar countryside1is decidedly less strummers and accordions. populated. The Chaco – a vast, Now, though, the differences cross-border plain extending into between Paraguay and the rest of Argentina and Bolivia – is South America are becoming less inhabited by a handful of distinct – politically, the country is Mennonite communities, part of the Mercosur economic indigenous peoples and the odd bloc linking the region, with wellmilitary outpost. But where the established trade routes to people are few, the wildlife is Argentina and Brazil. Moreover, plentiful – cross the marshes and the road to Bolivia is becoming the thorny wilderness where increasingly navigable – in the jaguar, puma and tapir prowl and dry season, at least: the TransP A Care I F filled I C Owith C E AaNwealth of the trees Chaco is now considered one of twittering, glittering birdlife. South America’s greatest road Wherever you roam in Paraguay, trips... and certainly one of the you are guaranteed to develop bumpiest in the continent.
os
Arequipa
DO
moré
Nevado Ampato
RA
Ma
Colca Canyon
ER
Gu
Pen. Paracas
Nasca Lines Nasca
in
SI
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Manu Biosphere Reserve Huancayo Machu Picchu Sacred Valley Cusco
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LIV
Chimbote
Pu
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Trujillo
BO
Chiclayo
Dreamstime.com
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S E R R A
Guayaquil
West Sparrow Falkland Cove Kidney Cove
8 For more information go to www.lata.org/paraguay Isla Wellington
Puerto Santa Cruz
Goose Green
Bahia Grande
Archipelago Reina adelaide Isla Santa Inés
45_Paraguay10_thv5.indd 45
Saül
FRENCH GUIAN
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www.lata.org
Galibi Nature Reserve Salut Brownsberg Islands Kourou NP Voltaire CAYENNE Falls
PARAMARIBO
GUYANA
Angel Falls
G
COLOMBIA
Nevado del Huila
Ciudad Ciudad Guayana Bolivar
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Pereira Armenia Buenaventura Cali
Delta del Orinoco
A
Medellin Manizales
Nevado del Tolima
rinoco
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TRINIDAD & TOBAGO
VENEZUELA
Sierra Nevada NP
le
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Walk on the wild side in this rarely-visited land
Tobago
Paria Trinidad Peninsula
gua
Corcovado NP Osa Peninsula
Gulf of Venezuela
BARBADOS GRENADA
Para
COSTA RICA SAN JOSÉ
Manuel Antonio NP
Tayrona NP
ST. VINCENT
Río
Lake Nicaragua Volcán Masaya Ometepe Island Tenorio NP Guanacaste Volcán Arenal Nicoya Peninsula Jacó Tortuguero
Cauca
AN
LESSE R AN TIL Netherlands LE S Aruba Antilles
Pta. Gallinas
S
EL SALVADOR
Rio Gallegos
Stanley
East Falkland Sea Lion Island
Strait of Magellan
FALKLAND/MALVINAS THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 45 ISLANDS
Punta Arenas
Cape Horn
Tierra del Fuego C. San Diego
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Las Vegas
Pt. Arguello
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ad
o
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Trenton
WASHINGTON
Springfield
Topeka
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Jefferson City
Dover
Indianapolis Charleston
St. Louis
Frankfort
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Santa Fe
San Diego
New York
Harrisburg Columbus
Ark
Richmond
Canadian
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Phoenix
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Nashville
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Oklahoma City
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Columbia
BERMUDA
Cape Fear
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Ciudad Juárez Dallas
Colorad
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Hermosillo
Austin Houston
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Chihuahua
Cordillera, coca tea and ceviche
Cape Hatteras
Mi
Red
El Paso
Raleigh
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Little Rock
am
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Chicago
Lincoln
Denver
Los Angeles
Punta Eugenia
Detroit
Des Moines
Mt. Whitney
Copper Canyon
Jackson
Atlanta
Montgomery
Baton Rouge
Savannah
Tallahassee Jacksonville
New Orleans
San Antonio
Mississippi Delta
Orlando Tampa
NI
Torreón
A
Monterrey Cabo Falso
Miami
GULF OF MEXICO
BAHAMAS
M E X I C O
Sacred Valley
HAVANA
Tampico Guadalajara
Leon
Cabo Corrientes
Acapulco
Mérida Yucatan Peninsula
MEXICO CITY
Oaxaca
CUBA
Trinidad
Teotihuacán
MICHOACÁN
Varadero
VERACRUZ
San Cristóbel de las Casas
Santiago de Cuba
Tulum
PORT-AU-PRINCE
Palenque Tikal
HAITI
KINGSTON
JAMAICA
BELIZE
Semuc The Bay Islands Todos Santos Champey Lívingston Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán Copán La Mosquitia Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa Gracias GUATEMALA TEGUCIGALPA Monterrico Suchitoto Cerro Verde NP SAN El Imposible NP SALVADOR Leon Granada Ruta de Flores MANAGUA
HONDURAS
PUERTO RICO
Jarabocoa Samaná Los Haitises NP Mount SANTO Pico Duarte DOMINGO
DOMINICAN REPUBLIC
C A R I B B E A N
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2 Sample Peru’s flavour-intense Coquimbo Lengua de Vaca cuisine – from cevichePta.to papas a la huancaína – in a top Lima restaurant Valparaiso
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3 No trip to Peru would be complete without a visit to the C. Carranza Chillán iconic Inca ruins of Machu Picchu Concepción Pta. Lavapié – one of the world’s great wonders – in the south of the country
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The sierra and jungle are hot and dry from April to October. November to April is the wet Valdivia season. The opposite is true for the 4 Experience the adobe Pta. de la Galera splendour of pre-Columbian coast – hot and dry from December Puerto Montt city Chan Chan, a wonderfully wellto April with cooler conditions May Isla de Chiloé preserved site near Trujillo to November. June to September C. Quilán are the best months for trekkers. 5 Take in the sheer enormous Archipelago de Peruvians like their fiestas, so chonos majesty of Lake Titicaca – Losthe coincide a trip with celebrations highest navigable lake in the world Golfo de P A C I F I C O C E A N such as Virgen de la Candelaria and the largest in South America Penas
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a whopping 60% of Peru is jungle. Chiclayo Experience the best of it in either Manu or Tambopata, two of the largest protected areas of rainforest and arguably the most pristine conservation units in the world. Or fly to Iquitos, the only place in Peru where you can see pink river dolphins in the morning and experience the bustle of a frenetic Amazon port in the afternoon.
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the main attraction for visitors, and rightly so. Set your alarm and get up early to watch the sun rise over the mountains and fill the citadel with light. This is certainly one wake-up call you won’t want to miss. Head north to the elegant colonial city of Trujillo, on Peru’s northern coast, and Chan Chan, the largest adobe city in the world. The crumbling ruins of the imperial city consist of nine great compounds built by successive dynasties which ruled this part of the country before the arrival of the Incas. A few kilometres from the city are the Easter massive adobe Island pyramids of Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna. Elsewhere in the region are the pre-Columbian pyramid tombs of Sipán and the even older remains at Caral, dating 1 back over 4,000 years. In the Cordillera Blanca, deep in the northern Andes, is the architectural splendour of the 2,500-year-old fortress temple of Chavín de Huántar, one of Peru’s most important ancient sites. However, this region is better known as a Mecca for hikers from all over the world. If that’s not your cup of mate de coca, then try whitewater rafting or mountain biking through the peaks. But it’s not all mountains. Most people are surprised to hear that
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www.lata.org
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ES MOUNTA
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ther than being able to name a certain little bear with a penchant for marmalade, many people would struggle to come up with more than a couple of Perurelated facts. Everyone knows about Machu Picchu, the myth- and mistshrouded Inca citadel, but hands up those who knew that Peru boasts more ancient archaeological sites than any other country in South America? Or that its vast green carpet of jungle is home to the greatest diversity of plants and wildlife on the planet? How about the fact that Peru is the birthplace of surfing, that its rivers offer the scariest white-water rafting anywhere and that the Peruvian Andes are so unexplored they make the Himalayas seem like Piccadilly Circus on a summer weekend? And that’s only scratching the surface. Everyone who visits Peru goes to Cusco, one of the most fascinating cities in the world. The Spanish built their colonial churches and houses on top of the original Inca foundations, and this startling mix of architectural styles is still in evidence. Cusco is also the ideal base for exploring the Urubamba Valley, which runs west all the way to Machu Picchu and beyond. Peru’s best-known archaeological site is
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4 Sample Paramaribo’s colourful Indonesian and Hindustani food options – or a European meal for the less adventurous 5 Tackle the striking granite form of Mount Kasikasima
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Delta del Orinoco
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Tayrona NP
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA B R2011 A Z 49 ILIAN BRASÍLIA HIGHLANDS PLANALTO DE MATO GROSSO
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50 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 LATA10 Ads_thv3.indd A4 Ads_mrv1.indd LATA11 50 50
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0 200 km Mar Chiquito remnants of colonial architecture or many European visitors there’s something in this part of the continent ua de Vaca BRAZIL Salto – a well-preserved historical gem strangely familiar about Cordoba on a small peninsula jutting into the landscapeSan of Uruguay. Juan the Río de la Plata. Largely devoted to agriculture, In the capital, Montevideo, things the green countryside is dotted Melo are a little more multicultural. with sheep and cows. As far back Cerro Aconcagua Fray Bentos Buildings in a riot of architectural as 1868 – when the British built Durazno Santa Mendoza City Teresa 4 Valparaiso styles – Spanish, French, Italian, a railway connecting the capital, NP 2 Colonia del 5 1 Laguna Negra Sacramento Montevideo, with the countryside – English and Art Deco – line the 3 Río SANTIAGO MONTEVIDEO d PAMPAS e streets. The Mercado del Puerto, Hereford and shorthorn cattle la P lata ATLANTIC Punta the 19th-century market building were reared in Uruguay and OCEAN del Este near the docks, is a carnivore’s across the river. San Rafael dream – dozens of restaurants It is a land of rolling hills and Pta. Norte C. Carranza verdant pastures, best explored on sizzle and steam with tray after tray of succulent and delicious parrilla horseback like a true gaucho, or by Cabo San Antonio staying at one of the many colonial (grilled meat), the staple diet of Chillán most Uruguayans. that have opened their Vital statistics top 5 experiences cepción estancias Escape the cities and the giant doors to visitors. Relax and adopt del Plata Capital:Mar Montevideo 1 Sip a medio y medio (wine Bahia Lavapié barbecue andr adrive alongBlanca the the lifestyle of the countryside or Cabo Corrientes Population: 3.5 million cocktail) in Montevideo’s Colo do spectacular coast stretching east of take part in the daily work of the Language: Spanish indoor Mercado del Puerto Montevideo, a conveyor belt of ranch at your own pace. Time: GMT-2 (GMT-3 October Bahia Blanca 2 Visit the museums and amble g r o bays, beaches and N e small You’ll taste the colonial flavour as to March) around the cobbled colonial International dialling code: +598 soon as you set foot in the country. promontories backed by hills and streets of Colonia del Sacramento, Money: Uruguay peso (UYU), woods. Stop off at the resort of del Sacramento, a short one of the best-preserved towns in ValdiviaColonia currently around UYU32 to the UK£ Punta del Este ferry ride from Buenos Aires, was the Southern Cone 1 – a favourite sunVisas: Not required by UK nationals Viedma and-sea spot with the international founded by Portuguese settlers in 3 Hang out with the stars in the de la Galera Golfo San 1 elite. Further east still, theMatias 1680. It has some of the finest trendy beach resort of Punta Bariloche When to go population dwindles and you’ll del Este, where Hollywood A-listers Sun-seeking visitors head to and rich Brazilians and Argentines find quiet lagoons where you can Valdés 1 Uruguay in the summer Puerto Montt Peninsula head in summer kayak through still waters to a months (December to March), Isla de soundtrack ofRawson chirruping birds. when the coast is very hot but the 4 For a slower-paced break by Chiloé the water – and excellent For a classic road adventure, interior slightly cooler, especially seafood – head to Punta del Diablo in the hills. Temperatures are choose Route 7 towards Melo, heart C. Quilán further up the coast calmed in summer by the cool of the cattle-ranching country. Atlantic breeze while the winter For most of its length, the road 5 Visit a Uruguayan vineyard months, especially July and August, and sample the famous runs through the Cuchilla Grande can get quite cold tannat grape variety – a range of soft, curving hills – Comodoro Rivadavia and past vineyards and orchards Archipelago de For more information go to www.lata.org/uruguay Lago Buenos Golfo de San Jorge Los chonos up to the Brazilian border. Aires
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 51
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Dover
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Charleston
St. Louis
Frankfort
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Enough diversity to send you Caracas pi
Canadian
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Nashville
iss
Oklahoma City
Raleigh
Cape Hatteras
Mi
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Little Rock
Providence
New York
Harrisburg
Columbus
Columbia
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Cape Fear
Al
ab
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Red
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Colora
do
Austin Houston
G Rio
hua
Jackson
Atlanta
Montgomery
Baton Rouge
Savannah
Tallahassee Jacksonville
New Orleans
de ran
San Antonio
Mississippi Delta
Orlando Tampa
A T L A N T I C
O C E A
Monterrey Miami
GULF OF MEXICO
BAHAMAS
E X I C O HAVANA
Tampico
VERACRUZ
Leon
Oaxaca
CUBA
Trinidad Yucatan Peninsula
MEXICO CITY
San Cristóbel de las Casas
Tulum
HAITI
PORT-AU-PRINCE
Palenque Tikal
Santiago de Cuba
JAMAICA
BELIZE
KINGSTON
Semuc The Bay Islands Todos Santos Champey Lívingston Quetzaltenango Lake Atitlán Copán La Mosquitia Antigua ruins Lake Yojoa Gracias GUATEMALA TEGUCIGALPA Monterrico Suchitoto Cerro Verde NP SAN El Imposible NP SALVADOR Leon Granada Ruta de Flores MANAGUA
HONDURAS
PUERTO RICO
Jarabocoa Samaná Los Haitises NP Mount SANTO Pico Duarte DOMINGO
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EL SALVADOR
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Panama Panamá Viejo the pastures studded enezuela is where the RICA SANhighland JOSÉ Canal COSTA San Blás Manuel Antonio NP withNPwildPANAMA flowers. PANAMA Islands Andes mountain range Corcovado Osa Peninsula Azuero Gulf of Darién If plants arePeninsula yourPanama thing, don’t meets the Caribbean – miss exploring the verdant a land of astonishing Galibi Nature Reserve rainforest and savannas of the variety that many believe is the Salut Cabo Corrientes Brownsberg Islands south-east – a wild and untamed ideal introduction to South Kourou NP COLOMBIA Gran Sabana Voltaire CAYENNE environment that remainsArmenia much as America. The Orinoco River Falls Saül Buenaventura 0 200km O r it was when the country received separates the vast plains from the inoc Cali Awarradam o Nevado del Huila its first foreign visitor back in 1498. tabletop mountains of the Gran FRENCH GUIANA San Agustín BRAZIL So overwhelmed was Christopher Sabana. In the west, the northern Punta Galera Columbus by what he saw that he tip of the Andes creeps up into the Macapá QUITO country in a ridge of frosted peaks. described it as “paradise on earth”. B Ca ECUADOR qu etá I. de Marajó Here Angel Falls tumbles in The south is home to Amazon n o B az Chimborazo Guayaquil Am spectacular style from the plateau rainforest, while the north’s idyllic Manaus Gulf of of a tabletop mountain. The white-sand beaches disappear into Guayaquil Vital statistics Top 5 experiences A m highest falls in the world, its waters the gently lapping Caribbean. a z o Capital: Caracas n 1 Climb Mount Roraima s cascade through the air for almost Despite all the geographical a jó Population: 26 million above) r(pictured S a the 2,810m A ei p V d M L S E Ta a a kilometre before meeting the obstacles, Venezuela has one of the O Language: Spanish tepui whose mist-shrouded heights M Punta Aguja rainforest floor. It’s an adventure to best-developed road networks in Time: GMT-4.5 inspired The Lost World Chiclayo B R A Z I L s ru clamber your way through the South America, thanks to its International dialling code: +58 Pu marine Trujillo 2 Visit the protected es jungle to get to the base; toCordillera reach Blanca Money: Bolívar fuerte (Bs), lucrative oil reserves. In the west is Pi National re Porto Velho area of the Mochima s Nevado Huascarán Chimbote currently around Bs6.80 to the UK£ the top warrants a major trekking Los Llanos, the great plain of the Park in the east of the country 1 expedition, but we’re guessingPtheE R Visas: Orinoco, where local flora and U Not required by UK nationals 3 Ride a horse through Los SI Riberalta ER Manu Biosphere 1Reserve views are worth it. fauna – such as scarlet ibis and Llanos, the vast area of RA Comas When to go DO S Pwetlands to the west of the country A final stop on your Venezuelan Orinoco crocodile – share their Huancayo AR Callao LIMA G E u Venezuela CIS apo Picchu is generally ré near the border with Colombia, itinerary should certainly be territory with cattle and the llanero 1 Machu Sacred Valley Cusco considered to be a year-round rich in fauna and flora Mochima National ParkPen.on the cowboys. For the ultimate ranch Noel Kempff Paracas destination. The dry season Mercado NP Lake Nasca Lines Cuiabáof coast, where you can hire a boat experience stay in one of the hatos, Colca Canyon Titicaca Relax in the cool climes (December to April) is more Sorata 4I A BRASÍLIA B O L I V Nasca Nevado Ancohume PLANALTO DE Nevado pleasant Ampato Mérida, a cultured university where you can enjoy a bit of luxury and chug round the clusters of for travelling (and Volcán MATO GROSSO Corioco El Misti Goiânia Arequipa LA but PAZ the town dating back to the 16th islands until you find a deserted while getting to grips with a lasso. particularly trekking), Cochabamba century and set in striking mighty waterfalls in the Gran cove where you can drop anchor Further west, at Mérida, you can Santa Cruz Oruro á surroundings high up in the Andes Sabana of the south-east Sucre Arica and spend a day padding across be whisked off your feet by the Lake look more impressive Poopó during the Relax on pristine Caribbean your own beach. Or perhaps head highest cable car in the world as it B 5 Potosí PACIFIC OCEAN Campo Grande wet season. The Andes zone Grande beaches such as Puerto Cruz Salar de Uyuni NP glides up through the mist-swirled to the spectacular Los Roques Ti doesn’t get as hot as coastal areas et around Isla Margarita ê archipelago, with miles of pristine peaks of the Andes. Pull on your The Chaco Reprêsa Parana Ilha Grande p a Concepción white-sand beaches and crystalhiking boots and march out onto nem Cam For more information go to www.lata.org/venezuela a Esteros de Antofagasta Iberá clear water. the grassy trails of the páramo and São Paulo
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52 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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Mérida
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 53
24/1/11 10:33:45
TR AVEL E XPERIENCED
Lat¡n Amer¡ca
FACE TO FACE WIT H L AT I N A M E R IC A Latin America is layered with history and natural wonders. Visit ancient sites such as Machu Picchu in Peru; the exquisite colonial architecture of towns like Oaxaca in Mexico; the intoxicating cultural mix in Brazil’s northeast; and buzzing cities such as Buenos Aires and Rio. Experience stunning landscapes and extraordinary bio-diversity, from the Amazon to the Andes and the Galapagos to Guyana.
LAST FRONTIERS
Holidays crafted by experts
Cox & Kings’ portfolio also includes: European Journeys, Australia & New Zealand, Middle East, Africa, Far East and Indian Subcontinent.
01296 653000 • www.lastfrontiers.com • info@lastfrontiers.com • ATOL 2793
Favourite Specialist Tour Operator
Latin America “Wherever you are don’t miss out on tasting the local food and drink. From caipirinhas and ceviche to some of the world’s best steak and wine.” Jonathan Goldsmith, Audley Latin America Specialist
[[[ GS\ERHOMRKW GS YO Brochure requests: 0844 576 5518 Quoting ref: LATA
54 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
:DQGHUOXVW /$7$ JXLGH [ 129 LQGG LATA11 Ads_thv3.indd 54
01993 838 650 | www.audley.co.uk
AUD1015 Latin America Travel Ad QtrPg r4.indd 1
www.lata.org
01/11/2010 09:42 24/1/11 10:23:40
Venezuela
Uruguay
Suriname
Peru
Paraguay
Panama
Nicaragua
Mexico
Honduras
Guyana
Guatemala
Falkland Islands French Guiana
El Salvador
Dominican Republic Ecuador/ Galapagos
Cuba
Costa Rica
Colombia
Chile
Brazil
Bolivia
Belize
Argentina
Use this table to find out who goes where. Contact details for each UK tour operator can be found overleaf
Antarctica
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THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 55
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UK tour operators Bonding Each country operates its own rules to ensure consumer protection. In the UK any company or individual offering travel arrangements available for sale in the UK that involve a flight as part of the arrangements has to hold an Air Travel Organisers’ Licence (ATOL). Similarly, under European regulations, any company that sells a ‘package’ (a combination of flights, hotels, car hire, or other ground arrangements such as transfers) must be bonded through an approved body. For your own financial security you should always check that the company you are booking with has either an ATOL (if there are flights involved), or some other recognised bonding arrangement. If not, or if you make direct bookings for hotels or services, then you will almost certainly not be covered if the company with whom you have booked goes out of business after you have paid them. All LATA Tour Operators listed in the UK section are ATOL holders. You can check an ATOL on the CAA’s website at www.atol.org.uk.
Key
A
C
ABERCROMBIE & KENT TRAVEL
CATHY MATOS MEXICAN TOURS
0845 070 0614 info@abercrombiekent.co.uk www.abercrombiekent.co.uk The UK’s leading luxury and adventure tour operator offering five-star tailored holidays to Latin America, the Caribbean and Antarctica. A&K is unique in having its own offices in Peru, Ecuador, Chile and Argentina.
b
ADVANCE WORLDWIDE
020 3371 1655 advance@advanceworldwide.com www.advanceworldwide.com Latin America is our expertise. Established in 2003, we are committed to consistent continentwide quality with first-class experiences for most budgets. With a fresh, flexible and an informed approach, travellers and travel agents find us an excellent choice.
b
q
Flight Only Denotes members who sell flights on their own.
q
Tailor-made Denotes members who offer tailor-made services.
b Travel Agents Denotes members whose trips can usually be booked through travel agents. 56 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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q
ANDEAN TRAILS
0131 467 7086 info@andeantrails.co.uk www.andeantrails.co.uk A specialist tour operator offering a personalised service. We organise adventure travel in Peru, Bolivia, Ecuador, Chile, Argentina, Guyana, Cuba and Namibia. Contact us for details of treks, trekking peaks, mountaineering, biking, Amazon, kayaking and rafting.
b Group Denotes members who offer dedicated group tours.
q
q
AUDLEY LATIN AMERICA
01993 838600 latina@audleytravel.com www.audleytravel.com An in-depth knowledge and infectious enthusiasm for all things Latin American, combined with a dedication to personalised service means Audley Latin America can create the perfect tailor-made journey.
b
q
AUSTRAL TOURS
020 7233 5384 info@latinamerica.co.uk www.latinamerica.co.uk Specialists in tailor-made tours to Latin America, combining an in-depth knowledge of the region with an efficient personalised service. A flight-only service offers excellent value air fares.
b
020 8492 0000 sales@mextours.co.uk www.mextours.co.uk For over 32 years, Cathy has been producing tailor-made itineraries to Mexico, Guatemala and Belize. Mexico is her life’s work and her team have introduced many clients to this magical country with its magnificent beaches and archaeological sites.
q
b
CHIMU ADVENTURES
0845 265 8334 info@chimuadventures.com www.chimuadventures.com Adventure/bespoke tour operator specialising in South and Central America. Chimu Adventures is web based to provide competitive prices. We have sales representatives in Europe, North America and Australia.
q
b
CAZENOVE + LOYD
020 7384 2332 latin@cazloyd.com www.cazloyd.com cazenove and loyd was the winner of the Favourite Specialist Tour Operator category at the Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Travel Awards 2007 and in the top five from 2008-2010. We offer the finest private travel in South and Central America.
b
q
COX & KINGS
020 7873 5000 cox.kings@coxandkings.co.uk www.coxandkings.co.uk Cox & Kings, the world’s longestestablished travel company, specialises in organising high-quality brochure tours and tailor-made itineraries throughout Central and South America for both groups and individual travellers.
b
q
D DRAGOMAN
01728 861133 sales@dragoman.co.uk www.dragoman.com Dragoman operate overland journeys and adventure holidays from two to 21 weeks. Specialists in Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Argentina, Chile, Brazil, Venezuela and Colombia,
our adventure will take you further off the beaten path to explore the real South America.
E EXODUS
0845 863 9606 sales@exodus.co.uk www.exodus.co.uk Exodus Travels have been operating since 1974 and are the UK’s original adventure and activity holiday company, specialising in walking, cycling, winter activities, photographic and wildlife holidays in over 90 countries across the globe.
b EXPLORE WORLDWIDE
0844 499 0901 res@explore.co.uk www.explore.co.uk Europe’s leading adventure-tour operator specialising in escorted small group holidays. Our one to four week itineraries range from hotelaccommodated cultural tours to trekking, use a variety of transport and are escorted by fully trained leaders.
q
b
EXSUS TRAVEL
020 7337 9000 escape@exsus.com www.exsus.com Exsus Travel offer luxury, personalised holidays for explorers with standards. Exsus properties are not only luxurious, but they are located in the best possible location and will truly reflect the culture of the country you are in.
b
q
G GEODYSSEY
020 7281 7788 enquiries@geodyssey.co.uk www.geodyssey.co.uk Geodyssey offers unique, in-depth, small-group and tailor-made itineraries designed to showcase the best in each destination. Trips include sightseeing, walking, wildlife, birdwatching, diving, adventurous treks and expeditions, beaches and self-drive.
b
q
www.lata.org 21/1/11 17:03:16
GO FISHING/ WINDOWS ON THE WILD
020 8742 1556 maggi@gofishingworldwide.co.uk www.gofishingworldwide.co.uk Go Fishing Worldwide: fly-fishing and game-fishing holidays. Windows on the Wild: wildlife, touring and soft-adventure holidays.
b
q
H
b
HAYES & JARVIS
0871 200 2211 res@hayesandjarvis.co.uk www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk Your holiday is tailor-made exclusively for you. Using your ideas and our specialist knowledge, we create unforgettable journeys. Discover spectacular wildlife, ruins, colonial cities, haciendas, volcanoes, culture and fiestas.
b
JOURNEY LATIN AMERICA
020 8747 8315 tours@journeylatinamerica.co.uk www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk As the UK’s No.1 specialist for Latin America, we’ve built up a team of specialists and guides with an unrivalled knowledge of the region, and a passion for sharing it. From tailor-made holidays to small group tours – we know the places you’ll love.
q
I
JTB UK LTD
020 8237 1752 info@travel2brazil.co.uk www.travel2brazil.co.uk JTB is one of the largest travel organisations, with a worldwide network. Together with our partners Net Travel Service (NTS), we offer package tours and tailor-made arrangements to Brazil.
b
L LAST FRONTIERS
020 3147 7777 ask@intrepidtravel.com www.intrepidtravel.com Award-winning small-group tours with excellent local leaders. From Peruvian treks to Cuban salsa classes, from Galapagos cruises to Brazilian island getaways, join a real life experience with Intrepid Travel.
01296 653000 info@lastfrontiers.com www.lastfrontiers.com Tailor-made itineraries for individuals throughout South and Central America and Antarctica. Particular specialities include culture, wildlife, riding, photography and fishing holidays. Sensible advice, expert knowledge and real attention to detail.
b
b
INTREPID TRAVEL
J JACADA TRAVEL LTD
0800 756 6294 info@jacadatravel.com www.jacadatravel.com Leading specialists in luxury, bespoke travel to Latin America. Every one of our experts has spent time living and working in the region to gain a real in-depth understanding of what Latin America has to offer you.
q
www.lata.org 56-58_UK Op_LATA10 thv4.indd 57
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LATIN AMERICA TRAVEL
020 7993 4340/7993 8205 info@latinamericatravel.co.uk www.latinamericatravel.co.uk Latin America Travel offers a wide range of holidays for the independent traveller to South and Central America. Tours in our brochure and website can be modified to suit your specific requirements. Tailor-made itineraries are our speciality.
b
q
LATIN ODYSSEY
020 7610 6020 info@latinodyssey.com www.latinodyssey.com Latin Odyssey specialises in personalised itineraries throughout South America, creating holidays around your interests and budget. Our team has travelled extensively
within each destination, giving you first-hand knowledge.
q
P PAGE & MOY TRAVEL GROUP
LLAMA TRAVEL LIMITED
0800 567 7379 www.travelsphere.co.uk Over 30 years experience as an escorted-groups tour operator specialising in high-quality, affordable holidays to Latin America. Why not explore exciting destinations with like-minded people? All holidays include an experienced tour manager throughout.
N
01347 889332 info@prestonreid.com www.prestonreid.com Tailor-made itineraries throughout South America, individually created using our up-to-date first-hand knowledge of the region and paying great attention to the finer details. Specialities include honeymoons, fishing, riding, cruises and sports tours.
020 7263 3000 mail@llamatravel.com www.llamatravel.com Llama Travel offers high quality, excellent value holidays to Latin America. All our staff have either lived there or know the countries well. Choose from 40 featured holidays, or you can design your own holiday to visit the areas you want to see.
Naturally belize
020 8274 8510 info@naturallybelize.co.uk www.naturallybelize.co.uk Specialising in tailor-made holidays to Belize. We offer custom itineraries for couples, groups, individuals and families looking to experience the reefs, rainforest, wildlife and Mayan ruins within Belize and neighbouring countries.
q
O OASIS OVERLAND
01963 363400 info@oasisoverland.co.uk www.oasisoverland.co.uk Oasis Overland run multi-country expeditions around South America ranging in length from 15 days to 15 weeks. We build, own, and maintain all our expedition trucks, and our trips are adventurous, active, fun, and ideal for the budget-conscious traveller.
ORIGINAL TRAVEL
020 7978 7333 ask@originaltravel.co.uk www.originaltravel.co.uk Award winning Original Travel specialises in tailor-made itineraries across the globe. Latin America is its fastest growing area with trips throughout South and Central America; from kayaking to jaguar spotting, the team love to talk about the region.
PRESTON REID
PURA AVENTURA
0845 225 5058 info@pura-aventura.com www.pura-aventura.com Pura Aventura means active holidays in comfort. We believe in sharing our passion for the most amazing places in the world, combining active experiences with creature comforts and operating in a sustainable way to protect them.
q
R REEF AND RAINFOREST TOURS
01803 866965 mail@reefandrainforest.co.uk www.reefandrainforest.co.uk Specialist natural history and diving tour operator since 1989. We publish three dedicated brochures: Tailor-Made Itineraries, Family Adventures and Escorted Group Departures.
q
THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011 57
21/1/11 17:03:54
UK tour operators
S
T
SELECT LATIN AMERICA
THE ULTIMATE TRAVEL COMPANY
020 7407 1478 info@selectlatinamerica.co.uk www.selectlatinamerica.co.uk Our specialist knowledge of Latin America enables us to offer high-quality tours, both tailor-made and escorted small groups. We offer culture, nature and adventure itineraries. Galapagos, Amazon and Antarctica are our specialities. 25 years’ experience.
q STEAMOND TRAVEL
020 7730 8646 info@steamondtravel.com www.steamondtravel.com With a background of 37 years in organising trips to Latin America, Steamond Travel offers you first-hand knowledge with flights, accommodation, air passes and bespoke tours at unbeatable prices.
b
STEPPES TRAVEL
01285 885333 latinamerica@steppestravel.co.uk www.steppestravel.co.uk Steppes Travel specialise in tailor-made travel to all of Latin America. Our team have travelled extensively resulting in holidays which incorporate culture and wildlife while minimising your environmental impact through a careful choice of hotels.
b
q
SUNVIL TRAVELLER
020 8758 4774 latinamerica@sunvil.co.uk www.sunvil.co.uk Bespoke soft-adventure trips aimed at the more adventurous and free-spirited traveller. Particular emphasis on wildlife and culture. Itineraries have been tried and tested by our team. 11 countries across Central and South America. Sensible advice.
b
q
020 7386 4661 enquiry@theultimatetravelcompany. co.uk www.theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk The Ultimate Travel Company offers a wide range of tours throughout South America specialising in tailor-made itineraries for groups, individuals and families based on our extensive personal knowledge of Latin America.
TO ESCAPE TO
0871 711 5282 holidays@toescapeto.com www.toescapeto.com We aim to create bespoke holidays designed entirely around the individual’s requirements, an approach which appeals as much to seclusion-seeking honeymooners as adventurous families. To Escape To offers expert advice and a comprehensive booking service.
q TRAILFINDERS
0845 050 5890 www.trailfinders.com Experts in tailor-made itineraries worldwide, Trailfinders offers unbeatable value and exceptional service. Whether you’re looking for budget or luxury, adventure or city breaks, cruising or touring, our prices are amongst the lowest you will find.
b
TRAVEL 2
0800 0224 182 enquiries@travel2.com www.travel2.com From the Amazon rainforest, across the mountains of the Andes, to the glaciers and fjords of Patagonia, Travel 2 offers the most comprehensive choice of tailor-made holidays to Latin America. Travel agents call free on 0800 0224 182.
b
TRIBES TRAVEL LTD
01728 685971 lata@tribes.co.uk www.tribes.co.uk Tribes, the Fair Trade Travel™ company, provides high-quality tailor-made and small-group holidays throughout Ecuador, the Galapagos Islands, Peru and Brazil. Tribes Travel promotes
58 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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services and accommodation that are run responsibly towards the local people.
q TUCAN TRAVEL
020 8896 1600 uksales@tucantravel.com www.tucantravel.com Tucan Travel has long been the expert in adventure travel to Latin America. Our award-winning reputation for quality of service, value for money and responsible travel has made us leaders in this field. Take the adventure of a lifetime with Tucan Travel.
b
b
q
Y YAMPU LATIN AMERICA TOURS
W W&O TRAVEL SOUTH AMERICA
0845 277 3366 latinamerica@wandotravel.com www.WandOtravel.com/latinamerica South America offers beach holidays, multi-country tours, classic cruises and exotic adventure. W&O Travel South American Experience offers a selection of high-quality tailor-made holidays across Latin America. ATOL 6094.
b
WORLD ODYSSEY
01905 731373 info@world-odyssey.com www.world-odyssey.com World Odyssey specialises in tailor-made holidays throughout Latin America. We offer first-hand and in-depth knowledge and, whether a honeymoon or a family holiday, we design the finest itineraries to fit the precise requirements of our clients.
020 7430 2668 jose@yampu.com www.yampu.com Yampu Latin America Tours has been planning lifetime experiences to Latin America for 12 years. Our head office is located in downtown Manhattan, with a branch office in Covent Garden in London, England. We are bonded with the Civil Aviation Authority.
b
q
WEXAS
020 7589 3315 mship@wexas.com www.wexas.com WEXAS is a private members’ travel club for those who are serious about travel, with over 30,000 members who pay an annual subscription to receive excellent travel advice, member benefits and exclusive travel offers not available with other travel companies.
WILDERNESS IN DEPTH
01298 214900 travel@wilderness-indepth.co.uk www.wilderness-indepth.co.uk With expert advice and a genuine personal touch, we create unforgettable tailor-made wilderness and wildlife holidays to some of Latin America’s most unique and special places - Guyana, Chile, Bolivia, Ecuador, Nicaragua and the Falkland Islands.
q
www.lata.org 21/1/11 17:04:15
Members by country Antarctica ANTARCTIC SHIPPING S.A
+56-2-4816910 antarctic@antarctic.cl www.antarcticdream.com Antarctic Shipping is the first Chilean company featuring expeditions to Antarctica. An unforgettable 11-day/10-night cruise departs from Ushuaia and reaches the South Shetland Islands and the Antarctic Peninsula.
ANTARCTICA XXI
+56-61-61 41 00 sales@antarcticaxxi.com www.antarcticaxxi.com Antarctica XXI offers exclusive fly and cruise expeditions to Antarctica – a unique opportunity to fly over the ‘infamous’ Drake Passage in two hours, and to join an expedition cruise visiting the best wildlife sites along the Antarctic Peninsula.
ANTARPPLY EXPEDITIONS
+54-2901-433636 / 436747 info@antarpply.com www.antarpply.com Based in Ushuaia, Antarpply Expeditions operates expedition cruises to the South Shetland Islands and Antarctic Peninsula. We specialise in taking small groups to some of the world’s most remote places on board the Ushuaia, the perfect expedition ship.
Argentina ALVEAR PALACE HOTEL
+54-11-48082100 info@alvearpalace.com www.alvearpalace.com A real palace in the heart of the Recoleta area, the hotel features 210 rooms including 125 suites. Sumptuously decorated with Empire and Louis XV style furniture, personal butler service, fresh fruits and flowers and Hermès toiletries in all rooms.
ATP DMC
+54-11-43159222 info@atpdmc.com www.atpdmc.com Argentina Travel Partners (ATP DMC) is an independent destination management company which specialises in opening up the range of unique travel experiences for new and returning visitors to Argentina, whatever their age and interests.
www.lata.org 59-61_MemBYcountry_LATA10 thv6.i59 59
BRITISH ARGENTINE CHAMBER
020 7495 8730 projects@britargcham.co.uk www.britargcham.co.uk The British Argentine Chamber of Commerce, since 1995, brings together a vibrant group of companies and individuals with common interests in Argentina and the United Kingdom.
TURISMO BALSA LTD
+591-2-2440620 info@turismobalsa.com www.turismobalsa.com Leading tour operator with offices throughout the country. Cruise ships and Las Balsas Hotel Resort at Lake Titicaca. Special interest tours. Tailormade itineraries. Best prices with personalised service and an authentic way to visit Bolivia.
ESTANCIA LOS POTREROS
+54-11-48782692 bookings@ride-americas.com www.estancialospotreros.com Estancia Los Potreros is an exclusive working cattle farm in the wild and scenic Cordoba hills. It dates from 1574 and sets the highest standards of accommodation and is unrivalled in its fabulous horses. The top estancia to experience Argentina.
Belize BELIZE TOURISM BOARD
+501-227-2420 info@travelbelize.org www.travelbelize.org Belize, formerly British Honduras, is a peaceful English-speaking country in Central America. Belize offers a unique mix of culture and adventure, with tropical forests, Maya temples, and the longest barrier reef in the western hemisphere.
Bolivia CRILLON TOURS-TITICACA HYDROFOILS
+591-2-2337533 titicaca@entelnet.bo www.titicaca.com Tourism pioneer with over 50 years committed to sustainable tourism with social responsibility. Peru-Bolivia daily cruises with own hydrofoil fleet, unique hotels, land transportation and ‘glamping’ – glamorous camping.
TRANSTURIN/TITICACA CATAMARANS
+591-2-2422222 info@transturin.com www.transturin.com Finest Bolivian DMC. Programs designed to interact with local communities. Owner of the Titicaca Catamaran Cruise Ships connecting Peru with Bolivia daily.
Brazil BRAZILIAN TOURIST OFFICE
020 7396 5551 ebt.uk@embratur.gov.br www.braziltour.com Brazil is a place that has a little bit of everything; its unique characteristics ensure international fame, attracting thousands of tourists from every part of the world. The diversity of the culture and the scenery are the country’s strong points.
EMBASSY OF BRAZIL TOURIST office
020 7399 9221 tourism@brazil.org.uk www.brazil.org.uk The UK tourist office for Brazil. Offers the answers to all and any questions about travelling to and around Brazil. Its website (www.brazil.org.uk) is the country’s official English language site.
METROPOLITAN TOURING brasil
+55-11-50825008 info@metropolitan-touring.com www.metropolitan-touring.com Our company is a DMC/ground handler, established in 1953. We first began operating in Ecuador, and have further expanded to Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia and Peru. We offer a one-stop shop for our clients’ needs across South America.
PONTA DOS GANCHOS
+55-48-32625000 reservas@pontadosganchos.com.br www.pontadosganchos.com.br An exclusive resort. The point of equilibrium is in Ganchos, an arrowhead pointed at the sea, surrounded by green and bathed by sun. The Atlantic Rainforest hugs the Emerald coast to form a unique setting, a tiny beach hidden between three small islands.
Chile TURISMO CHILE
COPACABANA PALACE
+56-2-7856609 cpt@turismochile.travel www.turismochile.travel Non-profit organisation that unites public and private efforts to promote Chile as a travel destination in international markets, by promoting tourism in general as well as the specific tourism companies that are members of the organisation.
KIAROA ECO LUXURY RESORT
+56-2-3356230 info@aceturismo.cl www.aceturismo.cl Founded in 1987. Our creative custom-made itineraries in high-end leisure travel and special interests include the High Plateau in the Andes, Easter Island, the Central Valley, the Wine Country, the Lake District, Patagonia and Antarctica.
+55-21-25487070 reservas@copacabanapalace.com.br www.copacabanapalace.orientexpress.com Situated on the promenade facing the magnificent Copacabana Beach, the Copacabana Palace Hotel is legendary for its sumptuous style, fine cuisine and impeccable service.
+55-71-32721320 reservas@kiaroa.com.br www.kiaroa.com.br With just 28 intimate rooms and bungalows, Kiaroa offers you seclusion along with comfort and sophistication. Kiaroa is a welcoming tropical oasis for those seeking to submerge in nature and explore the beauty of the Maraú Peninsula in Bahia, Brazil.
ACE TURISMO CHILE
BLUE GREEN ADVENTURES
01451 851824 info@bluegreenadventures.com www.bluegreenadventures.com Since 1991 we have been offering the most authentic and quality experiences in Patagonia. Committed to innovative itineraries, our team offers trekking, horse-riding, multi-activity adventures and the best holiday experience.
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DARWIN’s TRAILS CHILE
+56-32-297 2096 chile@darwinstrails.com www.darwinstrails.com Custom-designed tours and special interest experiences throughout Chile and Patagonia. Anglo-Chilean-owned Darwin’s Trails provides 20 years of local knowledge and experience in nature travel, showing the most authentic aspects of each place visited.
EXPLORA SA
+56-2-206 6060 reservexplora@explora.com www.explora.com The purpose of explora is to provide its guests with the unforgettable experience of exploring the natural and cultural environments of South America’s remote regions. Our hotels are sophisticated to ensure a real enjoyment of life’s pleasures.
METROPOLITAN TOURING CHILE
+56-2-2296086 chile@metropolitan-touring.com www.metropolitan-touring.com Our company is a DMC/ground handler, established in 1953. We first began operating in Ecuador and have expanded out to Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia and Peru. We offer a one-stop shop for our clients’ needs across South America.
Skorpios Cruises
+56-2-477 1900 skoinfo@skorpios.cl www.skorpios.cl Skorpios Cruises is a family corporation and a pioneer in shipping tourism in Chile, with over 35 years of experience taking tourists to the Patagonian Northern Ice Field and, since 2003, to the glaciers of the Patagonian Southern Ice Field.
TERRANTAI LODGE
+56-55-85 1045 info@terrantai.com www.terrantai.com Terrantai is the first boutique hotel in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. It is the perfect base for activities and programmes focused on the ethnic, cultural and natural heritage: educational trips, archaeology and overlanding soft adventure.
TIERRA ATACAMA HOTEL & SPA
+56-2-2630606 info@tierraatacama.com www.tierraatacama.com Discovery and adventure in spectacular northern Chile, complemented by relaxation and rejuvenation in our contemporary spa. With friendly detail-orientated hospitality and
flexible programs. Discover your Atacama with Tierra Atacama.
Colombia proexport – tourist office
020 7491 3535 london@proexport.com.co www.colombia.travel With 18 offices worldwide including four in Europe, Proexport Colombia provides a point of contact and assistance for companies working or planning to work with Colombia as a destination. It is the perfect bridge to get the right Colombian tourism suppliers.
COLOMBIA57
+57-6-8868050 info@colombia57.com www.colombia57.com Colombia57 is one of Colombia’s leading incoming tour operators offering innovative tours in South America’s most exciting destination. Colombia57 are experts in tailor-made programmes for individuals & groups focusing on quality and attention to detail.
METROPOLITAN TOURING COLOMBIA
+57-1-6180244 ccalderon@metropolitan-touring.com www.metropolitan-touring.com Our company is a DMC/ground handler, established in 1953. We first began operating in Ecuador, and have further expanded to Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia and Peru. We offer a one-stop shop for our clients’ needs across South America.
Costa Rica COSTA RICAN TRAILS
+506-2-256000 info@costaricantrails.com www.costaricantrails.com Costa Rican Trails targets to a very specific clientele, tailor-made itineraries with special needs and interests. All of our services and products have been carefully selected to meet our high standards of quality, value and character.
CRT
+506-2-508-5000 reserv@crtteam.com www.crtinfo.com & www.costarica4u.com CRT is Costa Rica’s only ground handler and DMC with Operation Hubs and
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offices throughout the country, providing a wide range of personalized travel services and logistics for FITs and groups utilizing its expertise on Costa Rica and local resources.
NATURE AIR
+506-2-299-6039 csaylor@naturegroup.net www.natureair.com Nature Air has been the reliable airline of choice for over 20 years in Costa Rica. Serving 17 destinations in three countries – Costa Rica, Nicaragua and Panama – our guests can rely on our strong network to all the top destinations in the region.
Cuba CUBA SELECT TRAVEL
+537-8664221 / 8664007 sales@cubaselecttravel.co.uk www.cubaselecttravel.co.uk British-owned and managed tour operator & DMC based in Havana. Premium provider to the international travel trade for ground arrangements within Cuba for the more discerning traveller, special interest groups, incentives and conferences.
Ecuador/ Galapagos ADVANTAGE TRAVEL
+593-2-3360888 info@advantagecuador.com www.advantagecuador.com Located in Quito, Ecuador and with more than 20 years of experience in the tourism industry.
AEROGAL
+593-2-2920495 ventasmatriz@aerogal.com.ec www.aerogal.com.ec Aerogal is an airline that has been operating for 20 years in Ecuador, flying between the major cities of Quito, Guayaquil, Cuenca, and San Cristóbal and Baltra (Galapagos). We are focused on customer service.
ECOVENTURA/GALAPAGOS NETWORK
+1-305-2626264 info@galapagosnetwork.com www.ecoventura.com At Ecoventura, we underscore the enchantment of the Galapagos Islands with dedication to high quality. We operate a fleet of superior first-class expedition yachts: Eric, Flamingo, Letty and Sky Dancer (dive). All are certified by SmartVoyager.
ENCHANTED EXPEDITIONS
+593-2-3340525 headoffice@enchantedexpeditions. com www.enchantedexpeditions.com Enchanted Expeditions are a long-established and reliable ground operator in Quito. Among our specialist tours – culture, archaeology, birding, adventure, trekking. We visit Beluga and Cachalote on Galapagos.
GALANET
+593-42-340315/296799 wim@galapagosnet.com www.Ecuadorianbuscharter.com Galanet, an operator based in Guayaquil (not traditional Quito) offers original, innovative itineraries with a strong reputation for impeccable service and the highest standards in terms of comfort, safety and value.
GALAPAGOS SAFARI CAMP
+593-91794259 info@galapagossafaricamp.com www.galapagossafaricamp.com A new concept to the Galapagos Islands, Galapagos Safari Camp is a luxury tented camp, situated on a ridge in the highlands of Santa Cruz Island, bordering the national park and offering magnificent views over the Pacific Ocean.
GALEXTUR/HOTEL SILBERSTEIN
+593-2-225 0553 info@galextur.com www.galextur.com Based in Quito, Galextur specialises in tailor-made holidays and adventure tours to the Galapagos Islands, based on first-hand knowledge and 16 years’ experience. Also we organise tours and adventure in Ecuador and throughout South America.
HILTON COLÓN
+593-2-256 1333 sales.quito@hilton.com www.quito.hilton.com Hilton Colon Quito is a five-star hotel located 15 minutes from Mariscal Sucre Airport, in a commercial, financial and touristic area: 300 rooms, including Executive floors, Deluxe and Hilton Guest rooms, three restaurants, fitness centre and swimming pool.
KLEINTOURS
+593-2-226 7000 accounts2@kleintours.com.ec www.kleintours.com. Kleintours is one of the main tour operators in Ecuador and a cruise line in the Galapagos Islands. Some of our many special features are: FITs, groups, incentive and congresses.
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Members by country METROPOLITAN TOURING
+593-2-298 8200 info@metropolitan-touring.com www.metropolitan-touring.com Our company is a DMC/ground handler, established in 1953. We first began operating in Ecuador, and have further expanded to Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Colombia and Peru. We offer a one-stop-shop for our clients’ needs across South America.
OCEAN ADVENTURES
0800 404 9575 info@eclipse.com.ec www.oceanadventures.com.ec Discover the Galapagos Islands on board the finest boutique cruise ship available. Owned and operated by Ocean Adventures, the expedition vessel, M/V Eclipse, allows the more discerning traveller to experience one of the world’s greatest natural treasures.
QUITO VISITORS’ BUREAU
+593-2-295 9632 info@quito-turismo.com www.experiencequito.com The Quito Visitors’ Bureau’s aim is to make visitors’ time in the Ecuadorian capital memorable and touching. We can help with every level of trip planning and then on the ground at our information centres across the city.
SACHA LODGE, CASA DEl SUIZO & Casa ALISO
+593-2-256 6090 guillermoz@sachalodge.com www.sachalodge.com Sacha Lodge: 26 rooms. Amazon basin, 300 meters canopy walkway. Casa Del Suizo: 75 room hotel. Amazon Basin. Culture, nature and adventure. Casa Aliso, Quito: 10 rooms individually designed and decorated. Petit Menu, until 10:00 PM, 24-hour front desk.
Falkland Islands FALKLAND ISLANDS TOURIST board
+500-22215 info@falklandislands.com www.falklandislands.com Leading the tourism industry of this unrivalled wildlife destination, the Falkland Islands Tourist Board provides a wide range of information and services to visitors, agents and tour operators alike.
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FALKLAND ISLANDS HOLIDAYS
+500-22622 info@falklandislandsholidays.com www.falklandislandsholidays.com Longest-established travel operator in the Falkland Islands, with over 20 years’ experience in tailor-made holidays to suit all travel requirements, photography, wildlife, battle, hiking or general interest. Group and independent travel arranged.
INTERNATIONAL TOURS & TRAVEL LTD.
+500-22041 se.itt@horizon.co.fk www.falklandislands.travel The most comprehensive travel agent and tour operator in the Falkland Islands with over 10 years’ experience and passion in selling this niche destination. As LAN GSA we also offer competitive prices for international flights to the South American cone.
Mexico MEXICO TOURISM BOARD
00800-11112266 info@mexicotravel.co.uk www.visitmexico.com A fully comprehensive information service on all aspects of travel to Mexico, including literature on the country’s many attractions, for the individual traveller and the tour wholesaler.
CATHERWOOD TRAVELS
+52-999-9202632 reservations@catherwoodtravels.com www.catherwoodtravels.com Catherwood Travels takes adventurers deep into the heart of Mexico’s mesmerising culture on unforgettable bespoke tours. Travellers enjoy exclusive dining and adventures in seldom-visited Mayan sites where they can immerse themselves in the wonders of the Maya World.
Panama ECOCIRCUITOS
+507-314-0068 annie@ecocircuitos.com www.ecocircuitos.com Ecocircuitos is a tour operator that specialises in sustainable tourism and personal travel planning in the Republic of Panama. Our team is comprised of multi-lingual travel professionals that ensure our clients are provided with high quality service.
Peru PROMPERU
+511-2243131 czakrzewski@promperu.gob.pe www.peru.info PromPerú, the Commission for Exports and Tourism in Peru, is responsible for the promotion of investments and tourism. Being rich in history, colonial tradition, adventure, gastronomy and biodiversity makes Peru an attractive destination.
AMAZONAS EXPLORER
+51-84-252846 sales@amazonas-explorer.com www.amazonas-explorer.com Based in Cusco, southern Peru, Amazonas Explorer is an official Inca Trail operator and organises high-quality alternative trekking, canoeing, rafting, biking, family and cultural adventure holidays in Peru.
CONDOR TRAVEL SA
+51-1-6153000 incoming@condortravel.com www.condortravel.com Experienced tour operator in Latin America, the first with the ISO 9001 quality certification. We offer conventional, special interest, adventure, fixed departures, tailor-made and incentive travel programs in South America. Guaranteed 24-hour response.
KUODA TOURS
+51-84-221773 info@kuodatravel.com www.kuodatravel.com Kuoda Travel is a unique company dedicated to designing private travel. Programmes include many natural and historic wonders of the region with an emphasis on authentic experiences with rural communities, nature and culture for discerning travellers.
METROPOLITAN TOURING PERU
+51-1-7155515 info@metropolitan-touring.com.pe www.metropolitan-touring.com Over 50 years of experience and our own offices nationwide allow us to secure outstanding service and guarantee immediate assistance and replies. We offer tailormade itineraries, special interest expeditions, and unique South America combined itineraries.
MOUNTAIN LODGES OF PERU
+51-1-4216952 info@mountainlodgesofperu.com www.mountainlodgesofperu.com Mountain Lodges of Peru offers the first and only Machu Picchu Lodge To Lodge Trek, a unique journey through an ancient Inca trail and on your way to discovering the famous Machu Picchu Sanctuary.
SOUTH AMERICAN TRAVEL SERVICES
+51-84-237887 info@satsperu.com www.satsperu.com SATS is a team of quality international experience, based in Cusco, Peru. We offer an authentic and unique experience in Peru and South America. We specialise in customised programmes, high-quality trekking, adventure and cultural travels.
SUN GATE TOURS
+51-842-37197 info@sungatetours.com www.sungatetours.com Sun Gate Tours is a Peruvian Tour Operator run by local owners, involved in ecotourism, cultural and adventure trips throughout Peru providing challenging small-group, tailor-made & escorted holidays. Discover this spellbinding country with us.
THE YAVARI PROJECT
+51-54-369329 yavariguldentops@hotmail.com www.yavari.org The MS Yavari, built in 1862 in England, was carried on muleback to Lake Titicaca (3,810m) and is now moored by the Posada Hotel in Puno Bay, Peru. Open daily from 8.00am. Bed & Breakfast for US$45 per person. Seven bunks available.
VIAJES PACIFICO
+51-1-610-1900 info@viajespacifico.com.pe www.viajespacifico.com.pe
WIESE FOUNDATION/ CAO MUSEUM
+51-1-611-4343 lgarcia@ayfwiese.com www.fundacionwiese.com Wiese Foundation have been working for 20 years in ‘El Brujo’ Archaeological Complex (north of Peru), opened to tourism in 2006 with the discovery of the “Señora de Cao”. We have recently inaugurated the Cao Museum.
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Members by category Airlines AEROLINEAS ARGENTINAS
020 7290 7887 info@aerolineasargentinas.co.uk www.aerolineas.com.ar Argentina’s national carrier operates daily flights from Gatwick to Buenos Aires via Madrid. Aerolineas flies to 33 cities within Argentina, as well as to Santiago de Chile, Montevideo, Rio and Sao Pablo in Brazil, Auckland, Sydney, Barcelona and Rome.
AIR EUROPA
0871 423 0717 uksales@air-europa.com www.aireuropa.com Air Europa is Spain’s largest privately owned scheduled airline offering twice-daily flights from Gatwick to Madrid with excellent connections to Buenos Aires, Salvador da Bahia, Caracas, Havana, Cancun, Santo Domingo, Punta Cana, Lima and Miami.
CONTINENTAL AIRLINES
0845 607 6760 www.continental.com Award-winning Continental Airlines flies from six UK airports to a wide range of Latin American destinations via its hubs in New York and Houston. It is the leading US airline to Mexico and also boasts an extensive network in Central and South America.
Iberia AIRLINES
020 8222 8970 sales.lon@iberia.com www.iberiaairlines.co.uk Iberia is the Latin American market leader, with the largest number of destinations and non-stop flights from Madrid. No other European carrier offers such a complete network and such quality of service.
LAN
0800 977 6656 infouk@lan.com www.lan.com LAN operates flights to and within South America. Daily overnight flights from the UK to Peru, Ecuador and Chile. On board, expect to experience the most award-winning service with our latest Audio and Video on Demand (AVOD). Welcome to LAN.
TACA AIRLINES
0871 744 0337 taca@flightdirectors.com www.tacaairlines.co.uk Taca Airlines is an alliance of the principal Central American airlines (AVIATECA, LACSA, NICA, TACA) and TACA PERU, united under one 62 THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 2011
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corporate identity to provide superior service to our customers. We serve more than 40 cities in 19 countries.
Cruise ships CRUCEROS AUSTRALIS
Hotel groups BREEZES RESORTS
TAM
+34-93-4970484 europa@crucerosaustralis.eu www.australis.com Expedition cruises to Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego and Cape Horn. Four weekly programs between Punta Arenas, Chile and Ushuaia, Argentina. Our daily shore excursions disembark near glaciers and fjords, visiting colonies of penguins, elephant seals, etc.
020 8520 0656 info@superclubs.org www.breezes.com Breezes Resorts opened the first all-inclusive resort in the Caribbean, the first in Cuba, Brazil and then Panama in 2009. In 2010, it opened the Breezes Buzios near Rio, totalling 12 resorts across six destinations: Jamaica, Bahamas, Cuba, Curacao, Brazil and Panama.
TAP PORTUGAL
+56-2-442 3114 info@navimag.cl www.navimag.com Sailing the Patagonian fjords: the best way to enter or exit the Torres del Paine National Park. Experience its vast, breathtaking landscape, where the epic, tranquil beauty of its forests, glaciers and endless snowcapped mountains are matched by the abundant exotic fauna.
NAVIMAG
IBEROSTAR HOTELS & RESORTS
020 8897 3700 sales.support@tam.com.br www.tamairlines.com TAM is the largest airline in South America. Our network covers more than 70 domestic destinations and 18 international in South America, Europe and USA. On board, our passengers will experience the comfort and the excellent service exclusively offered by TAM. 020 7932 3600 ukmarketing@tap.pt www.flytap.com TAP is a leading European airline, with 1,850 weekly flights to 65 destinations in 31 countries. TAP continuously strives to deliver safe, reliable and upgraded service, having won the 2009 and 2010 WTA category as the world’s leading airline to South America.
Charities/ NGO’s GALAPAGOS CONSERVATION TRUST
020 7629 5049 gct@gct.org www.savegalapagos.org The Galapagos Conservation Trust is the UK’s primary source of information and support for the Galapagos Islands. We raise much needed funds and awareness to support the conservation of this special place and its unique ecosystem and wildlife.
THE LATA FOUNDATION
020 8715 2913 info@latafoundation.org www.latafoundation.org The LATA Foundation is a registered charity, committed to poverty relief, sustainable development and conservation projects throughout Latin America.
THE TRAVEL FOUNDATION
0117 930 0076 admin@thetravelfoundation.org.uk www.thetravelfoundation.org.uk The Travel Foundation is an independent UK charity that aims to help the outbound travel industry manage tourism more sustainably. Our focus is on protecting and enhancing the environment and improving the well-being of destination communities.
Guide Books/ Media BRADT TRAVEL GUIDES
01753 893444 info@bradtguides.com www.bradtguides.com Publishing for 38 years: focusing on new/emerging destinations (eg Guyana), a reputation for ‘positive’ travel and recognised as one of the world’s most pioneering travel publishers. Voted Best Travel Guide Series 2008 by the readers of Wanderlust magazine.
FOOTPRINT HANDBOOKS
01225 473054 rsibal@footprintbooks.com www.footprintbooks.com Our 19 current guides to the region, including The South American Handbook, have been voted by LATA as ‘the most informative guides to Latin America on the market’. Contact us to discuss advertising opportunities in all our guides and online.
WANDERLUST PUBLICATIONS
020 8213 3077 aishling.mcloughlin@iberostar.com www.iberostar.com Iberostar Hotels & Resorts is an international hotel chain offering clients the highest quality experience in over 100 hotels worldwide, including Brazil, Dominican Republic, Mexico and Cuba, as well as our exclusive luxury cruise ship in the Amazon.
ORIENT-EXPRESS HOTELS
020 7921 4056 nicola.price@orient-express.com www.orient-express.com Orient-Express Hotels owns some of the finest hotels in Latin America – the Copacabana Palace, Rio de Janeiro; Maroma Resort & Spa, Mexico; Miraflores Park, Lima; Hotel Monasterio & Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge, Peru. It is also responsible for the Hiram Bingham train.
Local operators SOUTH AMERICAN TOURS
+49-69-4058970 info@southamericantours.com www.southamericantours.com SAT is a leading DMC with a unique network of well established SAT offices in Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Uruguay, Ecuador and Peru. We offer customised tours for groups and individual travellers, as well as seat-in-coach tours with scheduled departures.
01753 620426 info@wanderlust.co.uk www.wanderlust.co.uk Wanderlust is the UK’s leading travel magazine covering adventure, culture and special interest. As Michael Palin says, “the most discerning travel magazine this side of Nanga Parbat!”
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Members by category Representation/ Wholesalers AMERICAS
020 7223 4330 americas@americas.co.uk www.americas.co.uk Americas represents 13 Latin American ground operators and has vast experience offering innovative tours and ensuring arrangements run smoothly for tour operators and incentive houses. We offer support with material, workshops, training and fam-trips.
Tourist Boards
El Salvador, Guatemala, Honduras, Nicaragua and Panama.
Images Supplied by LATA members unless otherwise credited
Travel shows THE TIMES DESTINATIONS SHOW
020 7370 8092 destinations@clarionevents.com www.DestinationsShow.com Entering its 17th year in London and its eighth in Birmingham, The Times presents Destinations: The Holiday and Travel Shows are the premier consumer travel exhibitions in the UK with a whole area dedicated to Latin America.
www.lata.org Tel: 020 8715 2913 email: info@lata.org
All text is Š Latin American Travel Association. LATA is a trade organisation and we welcome membership from any company or individual who shares our aims and objectives. Whilst care is taken to ensure that our members are bona fide, prospective clients are recommended to make their own enquiries before entering into any agreement.
CATA
+34-91-5720854 info@visitcentroamerica.com www.visitcentroamerica.com CATA (the Central America Tourism Agency, with its headquarters in Madrid, Spain) unites under a single brand the promotional efforts in Europe and Asia of the 7 Central American countries: Belize, Costa Rica,
LATA is a partner of the Governmentâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Know Before You Go campaign www.fco.gov.uk/knowbeforeyougo Editor in Chief/Publisher Lyn Hughes Editorial team Sarah Baxter, Tom Hawker, Dan Linstead, Hazel Plush, Ed Stocker Art Director Graham Berridge Designer Michael Wright
Maps digital mapping (02920 912192, www.digital-mapping.co.uk) Printing Polestar Colchester, 2 Wyncolls Road, Severalls Industrial Park, Colchester, Essex CO4 4HT Design Š Wanderlust Publications Ltd 2011 1 Leworth Place, Mellor Walk, Windsor SL4 1EB 01753 620426 www.wanderlust.co.uk All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. No responsibility for incorrect information can be accepted. The views expressed in this supplement are not necessarily those of the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark. Main cover image Young iguanas, Guatemala (Gavin A Fernandes)
Stunning wilderness & wildlife holidays in GUYANA, ECUADOR, CHILE & THE FALKLAND ISLANDS
W&ONDERFUL LATIN AMERICA
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www.wilderness-indepth.co.uk 01298 214900 travel@wilderness-indepth.co.uk
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DIRECTORY OF ADVERTISERS Advantage Ecuador. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Air Europa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Americas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Audley Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Belize Tourist Board . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 Bradt Travel Guides. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Copacabana Palace. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Cox & Kings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Crillon Tours. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Cruceros Australis. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Dragoman . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 Eclipse . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 Footprint Travel Guides . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Hilton Colon Quito. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 Hotel das Cataratas. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 Inkaterra. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Journey Latin America . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 Last Frontiers. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 LATA Foundation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 Llama Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 Metropolitan Touring. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 Mexico. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . inside back cover Orient-Express Hotels Peru . . . inside front cover Page & Moy. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 PeruRail. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . inside front cover Senderos. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 Sunvil Traveller. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Taca Airlines. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Talking Stick. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 TAM. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Transturin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 Turismo Chile. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . back cover Ministry of Tourism Uruguay. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 Wanderlust. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 W&0 Travel. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Wilderness In Depth. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .63
The LATA Foundation The LATA Foundation is dedicated to promoting responsible business practices in the tourism industry as well as sustainable development, conservation and poverty relief in Latin America. • Preservation, conservation and the
protection of the environment • Promotion of sustainable means of achieving economic growth and regeneration • Promotion of ethical and responsible business practices • Relief of poverty The LATA Foundation supports projects in Peru, Guatemala, Mexico, Bolivia, Venezuela, Colombia and Argentina and is looking at new projects in other countries in 2011
Please contact us for more information or donate online at www.justgiving.com/lata
The LATA Foundation
www.latafoundation.org Email: info@latafoundation.org Tel: 020 8715 2913 Registered Charity No. 1123580
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www.visitmexico.com/rutasdemexico
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mexico, discover a country steeped in tradition and history with a contemporary charm, unlike anywhere else youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve ever been. The Yucatan Peninsula surrounded by the crystal blue waters of the caribbean has some of the most stunning beaches you will ever see. Immerse yourself in the rich traditions and be tempted by authentic mexican cuisine, crafts and pottery of which the region of Oaxaca is famous for. UNEScO has recognised mexican cuisine as a masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. mexico city, home to historical mayan pyramids but also modern couture, nightlife and luxury hotels. If you still have enough time and energy left, head further west, where there are rare opportunities to see whales along the pacific coast of Jalisco, also the home of tequila.
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