Wanderlust Issue 114 (October 2010) • Round the world special • Paddling the Okavango, Botswana • East Coast Australia • Whalewatching • Cycling Japan • Remote Bahia, Brazil • World’s best day walks • Tokyo
passion for
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Round the world trips 14-page special!
learnin holiday g s
10 trips f better yoor a u See p20
How to plan your ultimate getaway
Botswana
A wild ride through the Okavango Delta
Secret Brazil
Capoeira & canyons in sultry Bahia
Australia’s East Coast
Through Aboriginal eyes
October 2010 £3.99
12 perfect
day walks Short hikes in NZ, Ireland, Italy, USA…
Contents OCTOBER 2010 • issue 114
Whalewatching p58
Round the world p81
World’s best day walks p48
Features 26 Culture Aboriginal East Coast Australia
Learn the cultural secrets of Australia’s proud Aboriginal peoples on an East Coast expedition
38 Discovery Brazil
Cowboys, cacti and Brazil’s finest day walk – welcome to Chapada Diamantina National Park
48 Active The world’s best day walks Our favourite day hikes worldwide – Himalayan panoramas, steaming African volcanoes, Italian coastal jaunts and Patagonian peaks
58 The Wanderlust guide to Whalewatching
Spot blues, humpbacks and orca with our in-depth guide to whalewatching around the globe
THE FUTURE Like this map? To buy MAPPING a similar wall map, visit COMPANY www.futuremaps.co.uk
68 Wildlife Botswana
For the first time in three decades, the Selinda Spillway – usually a parched riverbed – is flowing into the Okavango Delta. Dodge grumpy hippos on Africa’s wildest paddle
Gabon p12
81 Experts’ guide Round the world
The best itineraries, the ticketing rules, the non-flying options, the key health and packing advice – it’s all covered in our 14-page special
98 Active Cycling Japan
Escape the 21st century – pedal the wilds of Shikoku, up thigh-burning hills and among rural villages
107 First 24 hours in... Tokyo The essential guide to surviving your first day in Japan’s highspeed, high-tech capital
Chapada Diamantina, Brazil p38
CheckIn
new trips, places & travel ideas
7 Your travels
Where have you been lately? Readers report from around the globe
8 Your letters
Why souvenirs salve consciences, and Luang Prabang’s dreamy dawns
12 Places
Gabon’s flagship wildlife lodge shut, and trekking the Nepalese Himalaya
17 Diary
A month of top travel events
18 People
Dom Joly’s desert wanderings
19 Opinion
Smug TV travel presenters earn our ire
20 Departures
CheckOut
travel advice & reviews
110 Books
118 The knowledge
112 What’s on
We get our hands on the latest travel essentials – this month, high-tech pants and travel shoes
Jonathan Raban’s favourite travel book, plus the best new travel literature and guidebooks
Making a splash around the world: the top places to learn to dive
121 Gear
Ten top trips to learn something new: master Samburu survival skills in Kenya and clank cowbells in Cuba
Nigel Marven on panda conservation, Attenborough on the beginning of life, and the Wanderlust World Guide Awards announced!
24 Dispatches: London
116 Photo tips
Discover hidden masterpieces on an insider’s urban adventure
How to get to grips with your camera. This issue: sensitivity settings
122 Hot offers
Exclusive special deals for readers
128 Serendipities
The pick of your travel tales Wande rlust I ssue
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→ category country
round the world Ever felt like walking out the door and not stopping till you get back to where you began? Here’s how to turn that round-the-world dream into reality – courtesy of serial globetrotter Doug Lansky and the Wanderlust team
→ Getting started: the big questions p82 → How we did it: tales from the road p86 → Hot picks: the 10 best itineraries p88 → Round the world – without flying p91 → Essential packing guide p92 → Planning countdown checklist p93 → Long-haul health p94
IN ASSociation with
→ category country
‘Approach your trip as an opportunity to collect experiences, not passport stamps’
The big 5 questions
preparation at the Oriental Hotel in Bangkok. If you like birdwatching, plan your itinerary around a great migration or sites where you’ll see specific species. The more original your approach, the more memorable your experience is likely to be. And by following your interests, you’re likely to not only enjoy what you’re doing, but also to meet locals with similar interests and form a more organic connection with them.
2 How long should I go for?
T
he actual flight time needed to whip around the world’s 40,000km girth is just 40 hours – you could conceivably pull it off in a weekend. amous attractions are nice – and there’s no However, you’re going to want to make a few need to avert your eyes if you’re nearby – but stops along the way. many travellers make these the focus of their Two months is short but doable; even two trip. The problem is that they can leave you years will feel like too little time once you feeling you haven’t cracked the surface set off. You won’t ever be able to see Top tip: of the culture. Instead of thinking it all, so the most important thing you’re about what you’d like to see, think is the tempo – how much you never too old about what you’d like to do. The attempt to see and do with the Take time off work. experiences with more meat are amount of time you have. Bring your family. often more unique and As a guideline, think of one Or use up some of personalised. ‘thing’ per week: seeing Paris, those pension Approach the trip as an visiting a relative, taking a hike. funds… opportunity to collect experiences, not Some ‘things’ may only take a day, postcards and passport stamps. If you like to but the idea is to give yourself the gift of cook, you might take a pastry course at the flexibility. Ever wonder how people get invited Cordon Bleu school in Paris or try a day of curry to a local wedding? Or find those tiny festivals?
1 Where should I go?
F
82 Wanderlust October 2010
Or end up taking free palm-tree-climbing lessons at the local cultural centre? There are no guarantees, but you’re much less likely to make serendipitous discoveries when you’re rushing between new places every other day. You might even stop to work or volunteer for a while, take a course, even just chill on a beach. Why? Partly to recharge your wanderlust (all those new smells, churches, museums, bus rides, daily packings get exhausting). Travel doesn’t necessarily mean being in a constant state of motion. In fact, those weeks or months you stay put may be among the most rewarding experiences of the trip.
3 When should I go?
O
n a long trip you can’t be everywhere at the ideal time. You need to be flexible. If it’s too hot inland, head for the coast. If it’s too hot on the coast, move to higher elevations. If there are monsoon rains in one place, an overnight train or bus can usually take you to the area that’s getting all the sun. In general, you’ll find your timing is fine for 75% of your trip; you’ll take a few hits for the other 25%. What you need to investigate is if there are any dates to absolutely avoid. Paris in January may be chilly but fine for city exploring, especially if you plan to be inside museums and churches, whereas a bike trip around Austria would probably be punishing at that time of year. >
Previous spread: Frans Lemmens/Robert Harding. This spread: Dreamstime.com
I
t’s the ultimate nomadic fantasy: start heading east (or west) and just keep on going. For some, a circumnavigation of the globe is a rite of passage; for others, a vital sabbatical from an over-structured life. With well-paved overland routes, packaged global airline tickets and helpful books, sites and apps, putting together a trip on the cheap has never been so convenient – no matter your age or circumstances.
→ culture EAST COAST AUSTRALIA
Following the
Songlines Travelling from Sydney to Cairns up Australia’s iconic East Coast, Nick Boulos discovers age-old Aboriginal secrets hidden amongst the big-name beaches and city sights
T
he Cadigal clan of Sydney were most likely going about their daily business of collecting periwinkles and weaving baskets of lomandra leaves when, 222 years ago, a ship appeared on the horizon and sailed through what is now the most famous harbour in the world. Life for Australia’s earliest human inhabitants would never be the same again. One of the world’s oldest indigenous groups, with a history spanning 40,000 years, the story of the
Aborigines is one of intrigue, tragedy and hope. Banished from their land, forced into slavery and separated from their children, they endured centuries of atrocities. Miraculously, though, their culture lives on. Songlines – spiritual leylines that link sacred people and places – cross Australia, and knowledge of them has been passed down to keep Aboriginality alive. With this in mind, I decided to weave my way through the cosmopolitan cities, lush rainforests and sun-drenched islands – all steeped in indigenous heritage – found along the east coast from Sydney to Cairns, and trace my very own songline. >
Frans Lanting/Corbis; Paul Kerrison
Facing the future So long the victims, Australia’s Aboriginal peoples are reclaiming their heritage – and sharing insights into their culture through initiatives such as the Ngaro Sea Trail
→ culture EAST COAST AUSTRALIA
Cooya Beach
Nick Boulos
Indigenous cooking
Tropical north
Learn to hunt for your supper amid the mangroves with the tribes of northern Queensland <
W
e could learn a lot from the Kubirri Warra clan. The tribe, whose land stretches from Port Douglas to Cooktown in northern Queensland, has a custom that forbids speaking to or even acknowledging in-laws of the opposite sex. “Just one of our traditions,” said Linc, my guide, marching to the beach in search of mud crabs. Standing under a leafy fig tree on Cooya Beach, 70km north of Cairns, Linc taught us the basics of spear hunting, a method he and his brother, Brandon, still practise today. “We go out every day hunting for a fresh seafood dinner, just like my people always have.” Linc’s effortless demo, which saw the slender weapon land angled in the sand with a swoosh, left a heavy air of expectation. Following his instructions (“Index finger on the end, weight on
36 Wanderlust October 2010
your back foot and step into it…”), my shot soared forth, hitting the ground with a thud – but only a third of the distance Linc achieved. Still, not a bad effort, I reckoned. “Time to kuya-kuya,” said a hungry and excitable Linc, using the native word for ‘fishing’. Barefoot, we stalked the long beach and infinite rippled mudflats like primal hunters, Linc’s burly frame weaving between the mangrove shoots. “Spread out,” he instructed as we neared the tide. Spears in position, we investigated the murky potholes created by lazing stingrays and scanned below the surface where the dark shadows of mud crabs rose from the depths. Quick as a flash, Linc expertly hurled his spear. The poor crab didn’t stand a chance and joined our growing collection of mussels and wirrels; the flat, pearly shells of these mudflat scallops were used as early forms of currency between tribes. Linc veered towards the tangled vines of the mangrove forest, recounting tales of his family tree. “My Grandma was only a baby when she nearly became one of the Stolen Generation. The elders hid her in a dilly basket and hoisted her up a tree when the police came looking. Thankfully, she was spared.” The dense canopy drained the light but we delved further into the mangroves. Several more midnight-blue crabs, claws
snapping wildly, were retrieved from beneath the buttress roots. Tired and ravenous, we began the walk back to Linc’s house, thinking with every step about the feast that awaited us. ▪
Clear as mud Learn to hunt crabs with traditional bamboo spears in the mudflats north of Cairns
Need to know: The Bama Way offers spear-hunting tours with the Kubirri Warra from A$75 (£44). +61 7 4040 7500, www.bamaway.com.au
More Aboriginal encounters → Bushwalk Step out on an amble in the hills of Cooktown with Nugal-warra elder Willie Gordon. The Rainbow Serpent tour with Guurrbi Tours cost A$120 (£70). +61 7 4069 6043, www.guurrbitours.com → Didgeridoo concerts Tickets for performances at the Aboriginal Tjapukai Cultural Centre start from A$35 (£20). +61 7 4042 9900, www.tjapukai.com.au
Alternatively… → Snorkel trips Swim over the Great Barrier Reef, home to 1,500 species of fish and 350 varieties of coral. Day trips with Diving Cairns start from A$88 (£51) including equipment. +61 7 4041 7536, www.divingcairns.com.au → Daintree River Cruise the snaking Daintree to see killer saltwater crocodiles and exotic birdlife; tours cost A$25 (£14) with Daintree River Cruises. +61 7 4098 7717, www.daintreerivercruise.com
→ discovery brazil
Diamond life
Tucked away in Bahia state, Brazil’s Chapada Diamantina National Park is the gem in a region of partying cowboys, capoeira dancers, mist-swirled mountains – and one of the best day walks in the world. Lyn Hughes steps out Photographs by Lyn Hughes
40 Wanderlust October 2010
1970s. “Walking the hills one day it hit me that if this was the USA or Europe, it would be a national park. So I made it my mission.”
It is hard to believe that, in its heyday, around 20,000 people would have thronged the streets of the little town. However, Lençóis is now having a bit of renaissance thanks to tourism; Smile – you’re in Bahia! there are plenty of restaurants and cafés to I was exploring the region with a small group, choose from, and several adventure companies guided by charismatic Tiago, a dreadlocked offering enticing trips to the caves and lakes Rasta. “Smile – you’re in Bahia,” he drawled on that fringe the park, as well as explorations of meeting us in the pretty colonial town of the park itself. Lençóis. “Say it slow... By-eeeee-a. That’s why One of the most distinctive of the tabletop people think we’re lazy!” mountains is the landmark of Pai Inácio, Bahia, in eastern Brazil, is known for its famous for its incredible views of the area and beautiful beaches, African-influenced culture, a traditional first evening must-visit. When martial-art dance capoeira and vibrant music, I was told we’d be going to the top for sunset including samba. But, here, several hours I had visions of a long, tough climb, but by road from Salvador, was a Bahia I didn’t actually you can park part-way up. At the know at all. summit a fierce breeze was blowing – all part of Just outside Chapada Diamantina’s norththe fun for some daring souls, who stood near eastern edge, Lençóis is the park’s the edge and let themselves be main gateway and travellers’ held by the wind. Above: Salvador is the hub of centre. Its name means ‘white Meanwhile Tiago talked us Afro-Brazilian culture, sheets’, reputedly from its origins through the legend of the and its lively Pelourinho is the place to peopleas a mining town in the mid-19th mountain: it was named after watch; drink in the views century, when it was little more a slave who fell in love with his across the Patí Valley than a collection of makeshift master’s wife. Want to know what Right: Snorkel in the waters of tents. The handsome market happened? You’ll have to visit Pai the Poço Encantado; building in the square once Inácio to hear for yourself… But zip-wire into the pool of traded diamonds and slaves. whether the tales are true or not, the Gruta Azul e Pratinha; and stroll the Today, you’re more likely to find the views of the surrounding chilled, colourful streets a handful of food and handicraft escarpments and valleys sent of mellow Lençóis stalls inside its cool interior. a shiver down my spine. >
Above right: Alexandre Cappi/Getty Images
A
hush fell as we approached the cliff edge. One minute we were chattering about our wonderful walk; the next we topped the escarpment – and fell silent with awe. Below us stretched the Patí Valley, one of the most beautiful in Brazil: tabletop mountains stretching as far as the eye could see and skeins of swirling mist adding to the ethereal, otherworldly scene. Chapada Diamantina (‘diamond plateau’) is a rugged land of flat-topped mesa mountains, waterfalls, caves and canyons. It was the centre of Brazil’s diamond industry in the 19th century, but has been a national park – the size of the Masai Mara – since 1985. Today outsiders are drawn here by its unspoiled natural wonders. Like that view. “This is the adventure capital of Brazil,” Roy Funch, former director of Chapada Diamantina National Park, had stated when I met him. “The mountains are scenic but very accessible. It’s fantastic for trekking and climbing.” An American, Roy fell in love with this littleknown area in Brazil’s Bahia state in the late
Ol Doinyo Lengai Tanzania Pink flamingos and the perfect cone Length: 10km, 7-10 hours return Difficulty: ´´´´ Steep climb to an active crater Our expert says: “A slippery ascent up loose gravel slopes, best done by moonlight to avoid sunstroke – but the lunar landscape at the top is worth the effort.” Ariadne Van Zandbergen, Africa-based photographer
H
ò ©
eavenly and hellish, the symmetrical volcanic cone of 2,878m Ol Doinyo Lengai – ‘Mountain of God’ in Maasai – is an active adventure in more ways than one: the volcano rumbles and periodically spits out rocks and lava – taking local advice is a must, as is an experienced guide and a pre-dawn start. Ngare Sero village, at the base, is within touching distance of flamingo-friendly Lake Natron. On the climb itself expect wonderful photo opportunities plus the adrenalin buzz of peering down on the crater’s glowing lava fields (from a safe distance) and, clouds permitting, views stretching to the horizons. Or try… Gran Cratere, Vulcano, Aeolian Islands, Italy – an easy climb to the lip of a rumbling crater.
48 Wanderlust October 2010
Inspired by our visit to Brazil, we wondered where else to go for world-class short treks. And here are twelve inspirational answers, as chosen by the expertsâ&#x20AC;Ś
The worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best
day walks Wanderlust October 2010 49
â&#x2020;&#x2019; wildlife botswana
Going with the flow The Selinda Spillway, an offshoot of Botswanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous Okavango Delta, has been dry for 30 years. Until now. Dale Morris joins the elephants, birds and hippos to canoe this fleeting waterway Photographs by Dale Morris
Mane attraction Despite appearances, this young male lion wasn’t deafening his girlfriend; simply yawning while she had a stretch…
< Later, as we gently paddled over glassy waters – so still they reflected the sky in perfect symmetry – Matt filled me in on the dos and don’ts of surviving the Selinda Spillway Canoe Trail. “There will be no crocodiles and very few hippos along our route,” he told me, “but if we do have an encounter, the protocol is to stay as close to the margins as possible. Should a hippo display and act aggressively, we should leave; should he attack and topple us, then we must calmly swim to the bank and depart post haste.” Aaaaaaargh! I thought to myself. “Piece of cake,” I said. Hippos, though benign and comical in appearance, are rather thug-like in their attitude towards humans. Consequently, they send more people to their graves than crocodiles, lions and leopards combined: a statistic that was
certainly foremost in my mind when we chanced upon one of the great lumbering beasts. “Remember to stay close to the margins,” Matt advised as the hippo’s dark and menacing head vanished beneath the murk. A row of little bubbles appeared at the surface, charting the animal’s sub-aquatic trajectory towards us. “Easy… easy…” cautioned Matt. “Wait for it, wait for it… Now, a little more vigour with the paddles, if you would.” And with that we rounded the corner, just as the giant beast exploded from the water, tusks scything the air. “What did I tell you?” chuckled Matt, as I nibbled my nails. “They’re cheeky little buggers!” Later that day I learned from Matt that we were not in any real danger, and that territorial bull hippos will usually display in this manner.
‘It was an amazing wildlife sonata – peaking
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