20 years of Wanderlust, 1993-2013
February 2013 www.wanderlust.co.uk
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India Your ultimate trip – SORTED!
Ditch the day job!
Expert tips on how YOU can become a travel writer
festival Special
43
celebrations worth travelling for in 2013
Australia
Discover the wilds beyond Melbourne
+
Colombia • New Orleans Derry • Tajikistan • London North York Moors & more...
£3.99
Wanderlust Issue 133 (February 2013) India • Festival Special • Ditch the day job – travel writer tips • Australia • Colombia • Tajikistan • North York Moors • Pocket guides: London, New Orleans, Derry
Celebrating 20 years in travel
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Venezuela
The lost world Photographer Alastair Lee
“Climbing a tree is something many of us do as children – but few are like this one,” says filmmaker Alastair Lee, whose latest flick Autana, from which this still was taken, just won an award at the Kendal Mountain Festival. “Nestled in western Venezuela, this quartzite-sandstone tepui (table-top mountain) is what local Piaroa Indians believe to be the stump of giant ‘tree of life’, cut down by battling gods. To scale it required careful planning by Leo [Houlding – British adventurer, pictured] and permission from the local Shaman, but this view from the cave we slept in halfway up made it well worth the effort. From this vantage point the sunrise over the jungle was pretty special. I got up at 5.20am to set up cameras and get a full time-lapse of it . It was the best part of the day: not too warm, really peaceful and no bugs!” Autana is available from posingproductions.com For more from Alastair see wanderlust.co.uk/133
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Your ultimate trip to
India
A big tick on every traveller’s wish list, this is one country that you have to visit – but where to start? Here’s six itineraries for a perfect two-week visit... Words David Abram
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hink of India and what images come to mind? Desert hills framed by Mughal-arched windows, hours spent chugging lazily along a Keralan backwater, sipping cardamom-flavoured chai under a coir canopy as kingfishers flit through the foliage, or staring through the early morning mist of the Brahmaputra River from the back of an elephant, looking for tigers in the long grass.
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Whether it’s your first or fifteenth time to the country, India offers a bewildering choice of experiences. Would you to prefer to focus on one region or type of landscape? The dusty north, mountainous north-east or tropical south? Or sample several in one trip? And as a backdrop for your adventure, do you dream of Merchant-Ivory-style colonial grandeur or the earthy hues of an Indian village? Soaring Himalayan mountains or the timeless simplicity of life in a mud-walled enclave in the Thar Desert?
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Ultimate India And how much can you afford to spend? India these days offers accommodation to suit every pocket, from no-frills lodges and guesthouses in backpacker ghettos to lavish boutique retreats buried deep in the jungle. Wherever you end up, and however much you decide to scrimp or splurge, by choosing one of these six itineraries, from the very moment you step off the plane, India will get under your skin: intoxicating at times, infuriating at others, but an experience you’ll never forget.
6 of the best Indian getaways
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Rajasthan & the Golden Triangle
THE NORTH-WEST
Previous spread: Getty This spread: Corbis; Getty
For... India at its most classic Rajasthan is the region most India first-timers choose – and with good reason. It offers just the kind of vivid spectacles you come for: painted elephants, bright saris, vibrant bazaars and flamboyant palaces, many of which you can even sleep in. In two weeks it’s possible to visit the state’s three major cities: Jaipur, with its ornate palaces and legendary shopping; Jodhpur (above), whose labyrinthine, cobalt-blue old quarter is overshadowed by a clifftop fort; and romantic Udaipur, where maharajahs’ apartments rise from the shores of a lake. Along the way, stop at Ranthambore National Park, to see tigers prowling a backdrop of jungle and medieval ruins. And head west into the ochre dunes of the Thar Desert for a camel trek, ideally from a colonial-style camp such Reggie’s (near Jodhpur; camelcamposian.com); after a day touring local villages on your dromedary, clean off for cocktail hour around the bonfire.
A rented Ambassador car (with driver) is the most stylish, and convenient, way to get around. Quite apart from the retro cool factor, it will allow you to reach wonderfully off-track places to stay. Try Devi Garh (deviresorts.in), an exquisitely renovated 18th-century palace near Udaipur, to gaze through cusp-arched windows across the Aravalli Hills from your own bath. Finally, there’s the obligatory photograph in front of the world’s greatest monument to love, the Taj Mahal – the perfect finale. Where to stay: Raas (Jodhpur; raasjodhpur.com) is a stylish fusion of old Rajput flair and LA cool. The cosy thatched safari huts at Khem Villas (Ranthambore; khemvillas.com) have private plunge pools. Or splurge on dinner in a 1,100-year-old, lamp-lit step well at Rawla Narlai (between Jodhpur and Udaipur; rawlanarlai.com). Got longer? Venture west to the chimeric desert citadel of Jaisalmer, which rises up from the Thar Desert. < Wanderlust February 2013 | 25
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Book of travel photography when you subscribe to Travel Photo Of The5 Year Volume
is a 140-page RRP £20. – k o o b k c a b hard Check out 3 r.co.uk/WL13 e ff to s lu r e d n wa e for an exclusiv preview of the book!
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Call Wanderlust on: 01753 620426 and quote WL133 * When subscribing by Direct Debit. This offer is not available to previous Direct Debit subscribers and is not to be used in conjunction with any other promotion. If Direct Debit is cancelled, offer will not be available again. Only one Visions of Wanderlust per subscriber/household. Minimum of two payments of £15 required. Free Travel Photo of The Year book offer valid for UK delivery addresses only. ‡ Terms and conditions apply – see wanderlustvoucher.co.uk for details. subs spread_SO.indd 53
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on assignment Last year we sent the four winners in our Travel Photo of the Year competition to this alluring Latin American destination. Join them as they explore it and look out for photography tips along the way... Words Lyn Hughes | Pictures Johnny Lawlor, Kestutis Balciunas, Christopher Marsham & Leif Smith
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Previous page Two campesinos walking through the Valle de Cocora are dwarved by the wax palms (palma de cera) – Colombia’s national tree, which can grow up to 60m. They’re the only palm to grow at such altitudes (over 1000m).
Clockwise from top left
A colonial street in La Candelaria, Bogotá’s oldest colonial quarter – the muted colours at dusk capture the colonial atmosphere. This particular street (Calle 11) has some good, cheap eating houses; a typical campesino – or, more particularly, his glasses – in Salamina town square caught the Wanderlust winners’ attention. Town squares in Colombia are good for people watching, and men especially spend a lot of time hanging out ; the streets of downtown Bogotá, or La Candelaria, are typified by these vividly coloured ramshackle buildings from the colonial era; three schoolgirls walking home from class; changing of the guard at Bogotá’s Presidential Palace (Casa de Nariño) takes place everyday, late afternoon; Bogotá is surrounded by mountains and it’s no problem to find a good spot to take pictures of the whole city; an iguana takes a late afternoon rest along the river bank at Ciénaga de Pijiño – a swampland north of Mompox; If your lungs don’t give away your altitude while in the Andes then the visually arresting brugmansia sanguinea flower –or Angel’s Trumpet – is a very pretty reminder. It grows at 2-3000m in the Andes and reaches up to 10m in height.
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How to | Skills | Gear | Health | Photo tips | Q&A
Navigator
“Piranhas have been known to bite male genitals when exposed in water...” Amazonian agonies, p68
Travel need-to-knows, from super sushi tips to brilliant binoculars
Take my advice
How to… ease your airport stresses No1 Traveller’s Michael Robey tells us how to take the worry out of departures
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Be in control Most airport stress relates to not feeling in control. To minimise anxiety, become master of the situation: pack in advance, organise travel documents, check in online, check your flight status beforehand, leave for the airport with time to spare, know your rights in case of delays. Do anything you can to feel you’re in charge.
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Be transport smart Research public transport options: pre-book tickets to save time and money, and check for roadworks. If driving, factor in time for car parks, drop off your travel companions so they can start queueing, or book a valet-parking service.
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Be check-in and security smart Before you drop off your bags, ensure you’ve attached your luggage labels and tucked in wayward straps. Have documents ready. Avoid queues full of families. Wear slip-on shoes and plastic-buckled belts.
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Know the rules Carry-on bag rules vary by airline: check your airline’s policy regarding size, weight and number allowed. Remember that not only is the size of your liquid containers restricted to 100ml, but you can only carry what will fit in one clear plastic bag no bigger than 20x20cm.
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Book a lounge Even if you’re not flying Business, you can book an airport lounge. For example, No.1 Traveller (www.no1traveller.com) has lounges at Heathrow, Gatwick (North and South terminals), Stansted and Birmingham; entry costs from £17.50 for a three-hour stay, including WiFi, drinks and food.
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Treat yourself Think of your airport experience as part of your trip and indulge. Have a fancy meal (eg, arrange a spa pamper and bottle of bubbly – No.1 Traveller’s ‘Champagne’ and ‘Platinum’ lounge packages include such extras (from £60).
Alamy
No1 Traveller offers award-winning airport lounges, chauffeur-driven transfers and travel spa bookings
Terminal panic Avoid pre-flight stresses by taking control of the situation
Did you know? Four in ten Britons who have flown find the airport experience stressful: nearly a quarter believe it as stressful as moving house! (Source: CPP Survey) Wanderlust February 2013 | 67
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Navigator Skills
How to... use binoculars properly
Expert nature watcher Michaela Leeb, from Swarovski Optik, tells us how to see the world more clearly… Going on safari, catching a glimpse of a rare bird or picking out hidden detail in a breathtaking landscape – binoculars can help you really see a place. And though there are many different models to choose from there are three simple steps to follow to help set them up to use them most effectively.
THE LOCAL’S GUIDE TO… BEST SUSHI BARS IN TOKYO
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The highlight of a trip to Tokyo? The food! We asked the local travel experts at www.tripbod.com for their top sushi suggestions for all budgets...
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Twist in Eyecups Good binoculars offer this feature. If you wear glasses you twist in the eyecups to give you the best view. If you don’t wear specs then twist them away from the binoculars.
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Sharpening your image If your vision is the same in both eyes (or if you wear corrective lenses) you don’t need to do this step. If not, you need to set each binocular tube for each eye. First close your right eye. Looking through the left tube with your left eye, turn the central focusing wheel until
Know your enemy...
2
Setting the binoculars First you need to adjust the binoculars so you have a single focused viewpoint that combines each eye’s image to form a circle (rather than two). Most have an adjustable join in the middle that you can move by gripping both tubes and moving them closer together or further apart.
the image is sharp. Then close the left eye, on good binoculars there will be a second adjustable ring on the other tube you can turn to make tiny adjustments called dioptric compensation. Once done you won’t need to change it again – to focus in on subjects simply use the central focusing wheel.
Sushizanmai Honten – With a prime location in Tsukiji Fish Market, freshness is never going to be an issue here. This branch is especially proud of its tuna, while locals and tourists alike flock to feast on it. Open 24 hours a day, it also offers great-value set menus. 4-11-9 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku Magurobito – This kaitenzushi (revolving sushi) chain has long been a local favourite; this branch has special set menu options too. Sit at a horigotatsu (table over a hole in the floor) and order the 12-piece Omakase Set. 1-21-8 Asakusa, Taito-ku Sushi Saito – Boasting three Michelin stars, this place has only six counter seats so each customer receives individual attention from chef Takeshi Saito. Book two months ahead, and go at lunchtime so as not to break the bank. 1-9-15 Akasaka, Minato-ku
Candiru fish
Danger rating: Medium. It’s disputed whether these parasitic catfish actually attack humans. Anecdotal reports suggest they enter human orifices such as the urethra to feast on blood. Identification: Between 2.5cm to 6cm long. Translucent body, making them difficult to spot in murky waters. Short sensory barbels around the head, together with short, backward-pointing spines on the gill covers.
Where found: River Amazon. Likelihood of encountering: Unlikely. It was thought they were attracted to urine but this has been discredited; cases where candiru have burrowed into humans are now considered examples of scavenging, not hunting. What to do if infected: As infection is so rare, non-surgical treatment is rudimentary –
locals have been known to drink the juice of the Xagua plant, which allegedly kills the parasite. Seek immediate medical attention to avoid severe hemorrhaging or amputation. Suggestion: Avoid urinating in the Amazon – better to be safe than sorry. Even if the myth about its ability to enter the human urethra is untrue, piranhas have been known to bite male genitals when exposed in water.
Illustration: Luke Webb Photographs Science Photo Library; Dreamstime
TOP TIP When visually searching the landscape to look out for things to focus on, keep your binoculars just under your eyes. This means, when you do see something you want to look at more closely, you can simply flip up your binoculars to your eyes, without losing the subject when you look down to grab them.
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TAKING THE HIGH ROAD
Slicing through some of the world’s highest mountains, the Pamir Highway is Central Asia’s wildest road, a drive of awesome peaks, ancient art and warm Tajik hospitality
Words Caroline Eden | Pictures Matthieu Paley
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Tajikistan 1
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May-Oct – best trekking months
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KNOW YOUR ’STANS
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…FROM YOUR TAJIKI’ TO YOUR AFGHANI’
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here’s a distinct lack of originality in Central Asian nomenclature: no less than seven countries are called something-stan. The core five are Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan; Afghanistan and Pakistan are honorary ’stans – they share the suffix (Persian for ‘land of’) but are less central geographically. This region has much shared history, linked first by the Silk Road, later by Soviet rule. But each is quite unique – in terrain, culture and travel experiences too. Our quick guide will help you tell one ’stan from another.
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We have 15 copies of
Odyssey’s fantastic Tajikistan and the High Pamirs guidebooks to give away! To see more about the book head to www.odysseypublications.com For your chance to win go to: www.wanderlust.co.uk/ competitions
2
Tajikistan
Kyrgyzstan
Highlights ] Driving along the Pamir Highway for dazzling views ] Silk Road relics and the natural beauty of the Wakhan Corridor ] Hiking in the Fan Mountains, to wander among Tajik herders, lakes and wild goats
Highlights ] Yurt-staying near the shores of shimmering Issyk-Köl lake ] Horse-riding; the alpine meadows of Jeti-Oghuz Canyon are ideal ] Visiting Tash Rabat, Central Asia’s most evocative Silk Road caravanserai (roadside restive inn)
Capital: Tashkent Area: 143,100 sq km Population: 7.8 million Sandwiched between China and Afghanistan, this former Persian settlement is made up of a mêlée of clans. Its long and combative history takes in Alexander the Great, Russian and British spy games and a civil war. Despite being the poorest of all the former Soviet countries, it’s rich in travel experiences, offering striking scenery and gargantuan peaks – 93% of the country is mountainous.
Top Tip Keep documents handy: military officials will be eager to vet your papers in towns; there are numerous checkpoints too.
Capital: Bishkek Area: 199,951 sq km Population: 5.5 million Rich in nomadic culture, high peaks and super horse-riding across the steppes, Kyrgyzstan is the adventure hub of Central Asia. It has few historical sites – thanks partly to the marauding of Genghis Khan. But what it does have is mountains. Lots of them. More than 90% of Kyrgyzstan is higher than 1,500m, making it a paradise for walkers, trekkers, climbers, riders and anyone who loves epic scenery.
Top Tip In remoter areas, toilets are usually long-drop: take your own toilet paper and soap
3 Uzbekistan
Capital: Tashkent Area: 447,400 sq km Population: 28.4 million Land-locked and ’stan-locked, Uzbekistan was once one of the most vital hubs on the Silk Road. Samarkand is a city of dazzling mosques, monuments and caravanserais, but it’s far from alone. Bukhara and Khiva gleam with a medieval architectural bounty: intricately tiled palaces, minarets, mausoleums and madrasahs (Islamic schools) grace the cities respective squares. Highlights ] Exploring Samarkand’s mighty Registan square ] The ancient Khorezm region boasts the remains of two milliennia-old qalas (fortresses) ] Bartering for carpets in the bazaars of Bhukara – dark red is the signature colour Top Tip A pure wool carpet might cost £200-plus; carpets on cotton bases, about half that price; silk options, ten times as much.
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Tajikistan
Turkmenistan
Capital: Ashgabat Area: 488,100 sq km Population: 5 million Off the beaten track and slightly off the wall. From Ashgabat’s rotating gold statue of deceased President for Life Niyazov, to dinosaur footprints and burning gas craters of the Karakum Desert, unique experiences await.
Afghanistan
Capital: Kabul Area: 652,230 sq km Population: 30.4 million Its location has guaranteed it a starring role in Silk Road trade, but, sadly, a string of conflicts has decimated the country’s wildlife, architecture and infrastructure while the security situation remains highly volatile.
Highlights ] The Yangykala Canyon, rivals USA’s Bryce Canyon for colours
Highlights ] The Wakhan Corridor is currently the most secure region
Top Tip You need guides outside the city – independent travel forbidden.
Top Tip A handful of tour operators (eg wildfrontiers.co.uk) run trips.
the central asia experts • Camp wild in the Karakum desert in Turkmenistan • Journey amongst the magnificent peaks of the Celestial Mountains • Meet the Golden Eagle hunters of Kyrgyzstan • Mingle with nomadic families in Mongolia • Explore the Silk Road in Uzbekistan • Swim in the glittering Caspian Sea Adventure Worldwide offers over 60 original itineraries in some of the world’s most exciting places. Explore beyond your imagination...
Prices from only £415 per person
Hand-Crafted Specialist Holidays
0845 304 8679
Map: Odyssey guidebook to Tajikistan and the High Pamirs Images: Matthieu Paley; Dreamstime; Shutterstock
www.adventureworldwide.co.uk
Pakistan
Kazakhstan
Highlights ] Driving Karakoram Highway – where Himalaya, Hindu Kush and Karakorams collide
Highlights ] Hopping between the ancient cities dotting the Silk Road through the Kazakh Desert
Top Tip Be culturally considerate – cover legs/shoulders (both sexes).
Top Tip Read In Search of Kazakhstan by Christopher Robbins for insight.
Capital: Islamabad Area: 796,095 sq km Population: 190 million Sadly, Pakistan is the stuff of negative news headlines. You need to do your research beforehand, but visitors will be rewarded with a warm welcome, awe-inspiring scenery and world-class remnants of ancient civilisations – yet few other tourists.
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Capital: Astana Area: 2,724,900 sq km Population: 17.5 million This Central Asian giant’s appeal for travellers lies in its emptiness. The country stretches from the shores of the Caspian to the Chinese border, with desert, steppe, mountains and lakes in between. The nomadic peoples of the Central Highland steppes offer fine yurt hospitality.
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Celebration From local gatherings to countrywide festivals, hereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 43
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The Rio Carnaval gets off to a bright start!
nations
of the best parties worth crashing in 2013 >>
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festival special <
January
14-15th
International Kite Festival Ahmedabad, Gujarat, India The world of kite-flying is a colourfully cutthroat one. Around 150 kiters will dip and twist their varied and vibrant craft, aiming to slice the strings of their opponents to be the last man flying. Spectators can splurge on food and shop at bazaars while watching the action. Need to know: Use Ahmedabad (8-10hrs from Mumbai by train) as a springboard for exploring Gujarat: Mandvi, the Rann of Kutch, remote craft villages. www.ahmedabadkiteflyers.org
19th
Timkat Gondar, Ethiopia Arthurian castles, African mountains and a celebration of Christ’s baptism… This improbable-sounding mix is
Timkat, when tablets from the Ark of the Covenant (or replicas, at least) are paraded through the streets by robed priests to a cacophony of trumpets and ululation. The northern Ethiopian city of Gondar, which is dotted with incongruous Camelot-like fortifications, is the best place to watch. Need to know: In Gondar (about 600km from Addis Ababa), explore the Royal Enclosure, which includes five castles. Timkat festivities are held at a 17th-century sunken pool called the Bath of Fasiledes.
20th
Camel Wrestling Championships Selçuk, Turkey November to March is camelwrestling (and mating) season on the Aegean Coast, but the bouts in Selçuk, on the third Sunday of January, are the big event. Despite the contestants weighing in at nearly a ton, the
sport is a fairly gentle affair – the most dangerous moments are when the decorated dromedaries charge into the crowds. Stay alert! Need to know: Selçuk is home to 12km Ephesus Beach, one of Turkey’s longest; the town is 60km from Izmir’s Adnan Menderes Airport.
13-20th
Ati-Atihan Kalibo, Philippines Formerly a pagan party, then Christianised by Spanish missionaries, Ati-Atihan now celebrates Santo Niño (Infant Jesus) with a flurry of tribal dance, indigenous costumes, face paint, parades and song. Don’t miss the last day, when revellers compete in a dance-off before a torch-lit procession. Need to know: Kalibo is at the north-west of Panay Island, part of the Visayas group; flights from Manila to Kalibo take 50mins. www.tourism.gov.ph
February 1-14th
Virgen de la Candelaria Lake Titicaca, Bolivia & Peru As befits a lady credited with performing many a miracle, the Virgen de la Candelaria is celebrated with much gusto in February – and nowhere more so than the lakeside hubs of Puno (Peru) and Copacabana (Bolivia). The festivities last for two weeks; the main day (2 Feb) is when Peruvians carry the Virgin through the streets – though Bolivians prefer to keep their effigy inside. In both, the whole fortnight sees mass 100 | Wanderlust February 2013
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Back from the ice age Dinosaur sculptures sniff at spectators of the Sapporo Snow Festival Left corner quartet (clockwise from top left): Taking flight at the International Kite Festival; camels grapple at the Wrestling Championships in Turkey; the Copacabana streets fill with colour to celebrate the Virgen de la Candelaria; Christian children parade through the Ethiopian city of Gondar
february carnival! T
here are givens with Carnival: it’s a pre-Lent celebration, held mainly in areas with high Catholic populations, and usually involving parade, masquerade and uninhibited partying. But those elements come in varying guises, all over the world. Here are a few of the best: ] Rio 8-12th The most famous fiesta; floats shimmy through the Sambadrome arena while blocos (pageant groups) rock the neighbourhoods. ] Salvador 7-13th Allegedly even bigger than Rio (4 million party people by some estimates), Carnival in the Bahian capital has a more African vibe. ] Venice 2-12th Dating back to 1162, this elegant affair sees masked balls take over the Italian city. ] Nice 15th-6th Mar Massive floats cruise the French Riviera, while the Battle of the Flowers sees gerberas and lilies flung out to spectators. ] Santa Cruz, Tenerife 6-17th Think Rio, but short-haul: the Canaries’ capital is twinned with the Brazilian city, and puts on quite a show. ] Binche 10-12th With its origins in the 14th century, this Belgian bash sees thousands of fancy-dressed Gilles (medieval musicians) hit the town. ] Trinidad & Tobago 11-12th The Caribbean’s most raucous Carnival – enormous soca troupes and steel-pan bands take over the islands.
]
Barranquilla 9-12th
A mad mix of music, folklore and flowers in northern Colombia.
banquets, musicians and the demonic diablada, when locals in outlandish costumes dance like the devil. Need to know: Buses connect Puno and Copacabana; journey time is 3.5hrs, with about 30mins spent at the border.
Previous spread: Dreamstime This spread: Alamy; Corbis
1-15th (TBC)
Tapati Rapa Nui Festival Easter Island This remote island’s cultural extravaganza is a sort of alternative Olympics. Celebrated only since 1975, Tapati sees islanders divide into two clans to compete at such events as canoeing, triathlon, banana-trunk sliding, bodypainting and storytelling – all
presided over by the designated Queen of the Island. Need to know: Easter Island is a 5.5hr flight from Santiago. Book early – accommodation is limited. www.easterislandtourism.com
5-11th
Sapporo Snow Festival Sapporo, Hokkaido, Japan For 63 years, this celebration of ice artistry has been transforming the far-north Japanese city of Sapporo into a magical winter wonderland each February. Its 64th outing in 2013 will be no less fairytale, with hundreds of super-sized snow sculptures lining the streets. They’re all best seen at night: after dark, the exhibits are illuminated (until
10pm at the Odori site; midnight at Susukino), which adds even more sparkle. Need to know: Average February temperatures can be as low as -3°C, and snowfall is common – wrap up warm. www.snowfes.com/english
10th
Chinese New Year Beijing, China In truth, you can welcome in the Year of the Snake worldwide: LA, Sydney, Singapore, London… all put on a fire-cracking party in their respective Chinatowns. But for the most authentic display, chose Beijing: the celebration lasts 15 days and involves a plethora of pyrotechnics, dragon
dances, temple fairs, lantern parades and gift giving. Don’t forget to wear lucky red undies. Need to know: Eat jiaozi, traditional New Year dumplings – different items are wrapped inside to confer different meanings, eg coins for wealth, peanuts for health, chestnuts for vigour.
March 2nd
Mardi Gras Parade Sydney, Australia A parade with pride: this annual procession – which has been getting bigger and more fabulous < Wanderlust February 2013 | 101
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