In our February issue, we ran a piece on favourite things – places, people, objects, etc – the choice was up to each individual but it had to be right here, in Portugal. Well, the response we had from readers was overwhelming – people couldn’t wait to share their latest find or their longest-standing love. So, installment two is in this issue, pages 63–64, with big thanks to Alise Careva, Hildegard Borkent, Rob Does, Tamara Comoli, and Adriana Bringuenti. And installment three is already in the working for our April issue.
There is always a particular fascination in what others find special, from a style of dressing, to the choice of music, to taste in food and, in our case, the places to be discovered, which is why we make a point of highlighting destinations that may be off the beaten track but are worth the journey. The subject of great drives will always be one that enthralls, and this month Debbie Reynolds, our intrepid traveller, hit the road in search of the greatest views, the smallest churches, the local artisan galleries and the places to eat en route. She hauled in opinions from two others and so enjoyed the experience, there’s more of the same (theme, that is) to come, but distinctly different in subject matter and therefore appeal. We are all about snapshots of great days out…
More of our ‘keep it local’ content is input from well-known restaurants. This month’s treat comes from Chef Henrique Leis and it is a mouthwatering delight that will be on our menu next week.
It doesn’t get more delicious than this. Or more Algarvean! Orange liqueur by Companhia Portuguesa, from Ange Boutik in São Brás. €21.80. angeboutik.com
Kozii - where else? The new collection includes gorgeous flowing caftans in hand-crafted prints. These are have-to-haves. Visit the stores in Tavira, Lagos, Olhão and Loulé. koziishop.com
FRONT COVER: Feathers and glitter, music and mischief at Carnaval, celebrated across the country. Enjoy! See page 18
The Loulé Criativo shop in Gama Lobo Palace in Loulé is the place to discover some amazing artisan pieces, like these clay and palm weave bowls, based on ancient techniques and born from two creative residences. Pottery: Pedro Piedade, palm weaving: Margarida Cortez. With design by Henrique Ralheta.
This is probably Portugal’s mostseen chair. By Adico, Manel is in aluminium and comes in a paintbox of colours, with or without a cushion. From Alquatro in Almancil, €239. alquatro.pt/ fashion-and-lifestyle/
You want every piece to work together to make a design statement. At Equilibrio in Almancil, you’ll discover wonderfully different furnishings, including two-piece coffee table suites in mocha oak veneer, swivel chairs and lights. It’s a look that spells special. equilibriointeriors.com
Trendy tots will jump for joy with a pair of classic ‘Volley’ Vega trainers. Different colours to choose from. €95. And there are some pretty fab grown-up Volleys, including one in shiny silver, €135.
GONE FISHING
Hand-painted wooden puppet crafted in the style of African art, with intricate carvings and vibrant patterns. One of a big collection. €149, at Candi Interiors in Almancil. candi.pt
This hanging chair is designed to handle the outdoors with ease, its sturdy stainless steel frame is built to last, without compromising on style. Nodo is fron My Face - myface.eu
You can go for checks, or stripes or, better still, a bit of a story. This natured-inspired cotton jacquard throw is there to get noticed. €69.99 from Zara Home, zarahome.com
Hurray, Sal Sol Sul is back with a new collection of great-looking T-shirts, sweats, and a range of ultra-light bags crafted from organic cotton. Well, that’s the summer wardrobe off to a good start. sal-sol-sul.com
In the nick of time
DURING HIS RECENT TRIP TO ZANZIBAR, NICK ROBINSON WAS READING ROGER CROWLEY ’ S BOOK CONQUERORS, ABOUT THE AGE OF DISCOVERIES, AND COMPARED VASCO DA GAMA ’ S TRAVELS WITH HIS OWN EASY-GOING JOURNEY
IT TOOK VASCO da Gama and his fleet about three months to reach where Angola would be. Luanda wasn’t a bay they landed in and I’m not quite sure how they realised that the winds would be better out to sea. The fleet sailed out wide into the South Atlantic and turned east when it was way south of the African continent, along the way experiencing really cold weather. They made landfall at what is now known as Mossel Bay, originally discovered by Bartolomeu Dias on the previous Portuguese journey, which didn’t successfully reach India and the alluring spices of the east.
It took us seven hours on Angolan Airlines (TAAG) to reach Luanda from Lisbon. That’s a radical difference: three months to seven hours and it’s a stark reminder of how much we have advanced in the past 500 years. As we were driving up to Lisbon we received a message that TAAG had upgraded us to first class. So, huge thanks to them for sponsoring my YouTube video and getting to experience first class for the first time in my life.
While we sat and chatted to the co-pilot in the cockpit with its myriad of twinkling displays, I imagined Vasco da Gama coaxing his caravels out of the Tejo and sailing south with the help of limited maps, astrolabes and log books. I sat and gazed at a screen tracking our flight over the African continent and sipped Champagne. Vasco and his crew most likely slept on the deck of a heaving caravel.
Whilst we were served three-course meals with exotic wines, the caravel crews battled scurvy and tropical diseases. They perspired in the tropical heat as we descended gently into Luanda, Angola, for our first stop. The air conditioners cooled us on the business class lounge as we awaited a quick transfer
to Johannesburg in South Africa.
Luanda as a city was only founded in 1576, almost 80 years after Vasco da Gama had passed on his trip southwards. From then on, Portugal formally began colonizing the region with the founding of Luanda by Paulo Dias de Novais, a Portuguese nobleman. The slave trade escalated, however. Portuguese development was limited to the coast as powerful resistance from local tribes limited total Portuguese domination.
I looked out of the window as we lifted off above Luanda and it seemed like a massive expanse of shacks and dirt roads. Tarmac highways were littered with cars hooting and beeping and the heat was oppressive and humid.
In the comfort of the airplane, I commiserated with the poor sailors who would now be venturing deep into the South Atlantic. After they landed in Mossel Bay and dropped padrões (stone crosses) up the coast, they cruised past Zanzibar and pulled into a coastal port called Mombasa in current-day Kenya. Tensions were high and they headed on to Malindi, where Da Gama found a pilot to take him across the Indian Ocean to India.
We, in the meant time, had taken a plane and had landed in Nairobi, the capital of Kenya, and experienced true African efficiency at its best. Our flight had been late incoming and we were now shunted from flight to flight, eventually arriving in Zanzibar at 4am with no luggage; we remained that way for three days. It was uncomfortable but nothing like what those poor sailors experienced as they crossed the Indian Ocean and found themselves in a blossoming war with the Hindus and usliks who had peacefully traded with each other for years before the Portuguese arrived.
ARMAÇÃODE PÊRA
From fishing traditions to beachfront bliss
ARMAÇÃO DE PÊRA HAS BEEN SHAPED BY SEVERAL CULTURES OVER TIME, FROM THE ROMANS WHO LEFT BEHIND ARCHITECTURAL TRACES OF THEIR INGENUITY, TO THE MOORS, WHO RULED FOR OVER 500 YEARS, SHAPING THE REGION’S AGRICULTURAL TRADITIONS AND URBAN LAYOUT. OVER TIME, THIS SMALL COASTAL VILLAGE EVOLVED INTO A THRIVING SEASIDE RETREAT, WELCOMING VISITORS BOTH LOCALLY AND INTERNATIONALLY
Words: KAYLA MEIRINHO
LONG BEFORE sun-seeking travellers arrived, Armação de Pêra was a quiet fishing village where life revolved around the tides. The town’s name goes back to its origins – fishermen from the nearby village of Pêra would set up their ‘armação’, a traditional structure used for tuna fishing, along this stretch of coast. By the late 19th century, the sardine had become the village’s new economic avenue, sustaining generations of families.
Today, Armação de Pêra is home to the last active fishing harbour in the Silves district, where local fishermen continue to honour their heritage despite social, economic, and ecological challenges. In the town’s tavernas and restaurants, simple yet authentic dishes are offered – grilled sardines, seafood stews, and freshly baked bread. Though modern developments have transformed parts of the coastline, the soul of Armação de Pêra lives on. Its side streets, historic buildings, and working fishing community offer little looks into the past in contrast to the lively beach scene.
Self-guided walking tour
Exploring Armação de Pêra on foot offers a perfect blend of seaside charm, history, and local culture. Wander through the town’s historic streets, discover hidden artistic corners, and soak in the oceanfront atmosphere.
Seaside Promenade From the heart
of town, head towards the lively seaside promenade, where the rhythm of daily life unfolds along the shore. Here, you’ll encounter fishermen tending to their boats, preserving traditions that have endured for generations; oceanfront cafés and wine bars, where locals and visitors pause for an espresso or a glass of vinho verde while taking in the sweeping sea views.
Sasha’s Street Gallery Adding a cultural touch to the town’s landscape, Sasha’s Street Gallery features vibrant street art inspired by Armação de Pêra’s maritime past.
Forte de Santo António / Fortaleza de Armação de Pêra Built to defend the town from Maghreb pirates when the town’s fishing was flourishing.
Capela de Santo António Within the fortress walls, this small chapel, dating back to 1720, is a quiet retreat from the bustling promenade. The beach below is sometimes called Praia da Fortaleza.
Igreja Matriz de Armação de Pêra (Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes) This historic church has long served as a spiritual spot for families to pray for the safe return of their sailors.
Etnoster Art & Craft Gallery A dynamic space for art lovers, Etnoster Gallery hosts exhibitions, promotes local and international artists, and offers creative workshops. The gallery provides a platform for artistic expression across multiple mediums. Follow Etnoster Gallery on Instagram or Facebook for updates on exhibits and workshops.
FESTIVALS & CELEBRATIONS
Armação de Pêra hosts a mix of cultural, religious, and food-focused festivals that celebrate its heritage.
Classic Car Get-Together (first Sunday of every month). A social gathering for classic car owners and enthusiasts, showcasing historic vehicles from different generations.
Festival of Caldeirada and the Sea (May). A celebration of the town’s fishing heritage. Local restaurants serve fresh fish stews and seafood specialties.
Festa de Nossa Senhora dos Navegantes (August). A religious procession honouring the patron saint of fishermen, moving through town and on to the sea.
Summer Music Events Throughout the summer, the town hosts open-air concerts and performances, creating a vibrant nightlife scene.
This page: The tiny insta-loved Nossa Senhora da Rocha chapel, where vows as well as selfies are exchanged. Opposite page: The sandy beaches, the historic churches over the sea; the fishermen sorting their catch of the day
Comboio Turístico For those looking to explore the town with ease, the Comboio Turístico offers a hop-on, hop-off experience with nine stops across Armação de Pêra.
Beaches and walks
Whether you’re here to soak up the sun or explore the coastline, head out to enjoy pristine beaches, scenic trails, and easy access to the Algarve’s largest natural reef. Cafés and beach bars line the shore, so you’re never far from a refreshment.
Praia de Armação de Pêra (the main beach) stretches along the town. This expansive golden-sand beach is ideal for swimming, sunbathing, and seaside walks. The ocean front promenade offers elevated views, perfect for sunrise and sunset strolls.
On the eastern edge, known as Praia dos Pescadores (Fishermen’s Beach), colourful fishing boats rest on the sand. Here, fishermen repair nets and launch their boats directly from the shore, sometimes offering boat tours to explore the coastline. Arrive early to see the catch of the day brought in fresh from the sea.
To the West
Heading west, the coastline transforms into rugged cliffs, hidden beaches, and breathtaking sea views. Praia do Vale do Olival offers a scenic escape with clifftop trails and a relaxed atmosphere. Further along, Praia dos Beijinhos provides a
secluded cove, perfect for swimming and unwinding away from the crowds. Continuing along the coastal trail, you’ll reach Nossa Senhora da Rocha, a historic clifftop chapel and wedding photographers’ favourite, perched dramatically above the sea. This vantage point offers some of the Algarve’s most spectacular views, with trails leading to hidden beaches and striking rock formations.
To the East
For a scenic coastal walk, head east along the wooden boardwalk over the Ribeira de Alcantarilha estuary. This 3.5 km trail winds through sand dunes and wetlands, offering glimpses of migratory birds like white flamingos. The walk continues past Praia dos Salgados and Praia Grande, leading all the way to Praia da Galé. The eastern end of Galé Beach reveals fossilfilled rock formations, making it a favourite for nature lovers.
Diving and
marine adventures
Armação de Pêra boasts Portugal’s largest natural reef, a thriving ecosystem of coral gardens, marine prairies, and algaecovered rock beds. The reef is home to protected species like seahorses and has been the site of new species discoveries. Divers can explore Bela Reef and other top dive spots, while deep-sea fishing tours offer another way to experience the Algarve’s vibrant marine life.
NOTABLE NEARBY ATTRACTIONS
Silves Castle – A Moorish fortress offering panoramic countryside views and a glimpse into Portugal’s medieval past.
Alcantarilha Church & Bone Chapel – A small, intriguing chapel decorated with human bones, a tradition seen in historic Portuguese churches.
Porches Pottery – Famous for hand-painted ceramics, visitors can watch artisans at work and even paint their own ceramic piece.
Cabrita Wines – This family-run winery offers vineyard tours, tastings, and local charcuterie pairings, making it a must-visit for wine lovers.
Seven
Hanging
Valleys
Trail – One of the Algarve’s most scenic coastal hikes, passing through limestone cliffs, sea caves, and secluded beaches.
Benagil Cave Boat Tours – Take a guided boat tour into the iconic Benagil Cave, known for its dramatic natural skylight.
#KOZIICARE #KOZIILOVE
tavira - loulé - olhão - lagos
WHERE TO EAT
Metrópole Restaurante & Bar Lounge Offering a refined dining experience with top-notch service, this upscale steakhouse is sophisticated yet approachable. It features beautifully plated mains that are reasonably affordable. The knowledgeable staff enhance the experience with expert wine pairings and thoughtful recommendations. Perfect for a special occasion or a romantic evening.
Olivalmar Renowned for its cataplana and impressive seafood platters, enjoy fresh, expertly prepared fish all served with oceanfront views. Guests can dine under the stars with the sound of waves in the background or enjoy a leisurely lunch with a menu focused on fresh seafood and local flavours.
Sardinha Assada Restaurante
True to its name, Sardinha Assada is the go-to spot for tasty grilled sardines. Best enjoyed during peak season from June to October, these iconic Portuguese delicacies are at their most flavourful in the summer months. Expect a laidback, authentic experience where the focus is on the quality of the catch, cooked simply over an open flame to bring out its rich taste.
Palhota Café Set right on the beach, enjoy casual seaside snacks and sunset drinks. Whether you’re craving a crisp caipirinha, a satisfying toastie, or a light bite between dips in the ocean, this nofuss café delivers delicious classics at unbeatable prices.
NANA Vila Vita Parc’s glorious Greek restaurant facing the sea at Fisherman’s Beach. Also from the luxury resort is Praia Dourada open now for the new season.
Rocha da Palha
Overlooking a tiny cove, this one is a real treat, especially for fish lovers. It’s packed at lunchtime and in the evening with local business people and visitors in the know.
O Rei das Bolas de Berlim
A local favourite, this is the ultimate stop for Portugal’s beloved beach pastry, the cream-filled doughnut.
WHERE TO STAY
Beachfront Bliss & Spa
Luxury oceanfront living meets serenity, where panoramic views stretch across Praia Grande Beach, the Atlantic Ocean, and the lagoon. With direct beach access and indulgent spa amenities – including a hammam – this retreat is designed for pure relaxation in a breathtaking coastal setting.
Sunset Village by Vila Vita
For those seeking the luxury of Vila Vita Parc hospitality within a more intimate setting, Sunset Village offers beautifully designed two- and threebedroom apartments, each with a private balcony or terrace. Guests can enjoy the comfort and space of a private residence while benefiting from the high-end services of a world-class hotel.
Marsuites
A stylish boutique bed and breakfast blending modern comfort with boho charm, Marsuites is known for its exceptional breakfasts and prime location – just a two-minute walk from the beach. Thoughtfully decorated and inviting, this stay is perfect for travellers who appreciate both design and convenience.
Vila Galé Náutico
Embracing its nautical theme, this all-inclusive hotel is an ideal summer retreat for families. With dedicated children’s facilities—including a playground, kids’ club, pools, and even rooms with slides—Vila Galé Náutico makes family-friendly luxury effortless.
Red Chalet (Below)
Built in the early 20th century in the Belle Époque style, this former family summer home is perfect for groups or families looking for a private beachfront escape. This superb villa, part of Vila Vita Parc, provides a unique blend of heritage, elegance, and exclusivity. Luxury all the way.
AS SPRING APPROACHES, STREETS ALL OVER PORTUGAL ERUPT IN THEIR OWN BLEND OF COLOUR, MUSIC, AND JOYFUL CHAOS, HONOURING THE CENTURIES-OLD TRADITION OF CARNAVAL, A VIBRANT CELEBRATION THAT HAS BECOME A LIVING MOSAIC OF HERITAGE AND CREATIVE EXPRESSION. BEYOND PARADES AND CONFETTI LIES A DEEPER STORY OF RESILIENCE, COMMUNITY, AND CULTURAL PRIDE
Words: CHRISTINA MORENO
CARNAVAL
F MORETHAN JUST FESTIVITY
ROM UNESCO-recognised rituals like the Caretos de Podence to sardonic floats mocking politicians in Torres Vedras, Portuguese Carnaval invites everyone to shed their everyday persona and dive into a world where imagination is Queen. Parades filled with elaborate costumes, masks adorned with feathers and sequins, and lively music all bid farewell to winter while joyfully welcoming all kinds of new ‘springs’. But what makes Portugal’s Carnaval truly unique is how it has preserved ancestral traditions while embracing regional diversity, creativity and humour, often as a form of social commentary.
For a few glorious days, you too are invited to leave behind the carefully curated you and embrace your inner rockstar, channel your samba queen, or become any character you can imagine.
The origins of Carnaval in Portugal are steeped in history and tradition, with roots tracing back centuries. While the exact beginnings remain somewhat elusive, historical records provide intriguing glimpses into its evolution. The earliest documented Carnaval celebrations in Portugal emerged during the 16th century, coinciding with the reign of the House of Aviz. However, some historical evidence suggests an even earlier introduction, potentially as far back as 1252, marked by a document bearing the seal of King Afonso III.
Initially known as Entrudo, derived from the Latin ‘to enter,’ these festivities were deeply intertwined with the religious calendar. Early Carnaval celebrations in Portugal were marked by spontaneous street revelry, including playful antics like throwing water, eggs, and flour. These practices, rooted in both pagan fertility rituals and Christian purification rites, symbolised social inversion and the transition to Lent.
While these rowdy traditions have evolved into more structured events, featuring parades, masked balls, and elaborate costumes, their spirit endures in places like Ovar. Here, the ‘dirty battle,’ where Carnaval-goers throw even paint at each other, continues to capture the mischievous essence of Entrudo.
THE ART OF TRANSFORMATION
One of the most magical aspects of Carnaval is its emphasis on transformation – not just through costumes but also through behaviour and identity. For a few days each year, societal norms are turned upside down. People become whoever – or whatever – they want to be: mythical creatures, political figures, or abstract works of art. It’s not just about hiding behind a mask; it’s about revealing hidden aspects of oneself.
No two Carnavals are alike. So, let’s look at what makes
Portugal’s celebrations unique?
Ancestral traditions: Unlike more commercialised Carnavals elsewhere, Portugal preserves ancient customs like Lazarim’s wooden masks or Podence’s Caretos. These rituals connect participants to their heritage while celebrating seasonal transitions.
Satirical humour: Portuguese Carnaval excels at using humor as social commentary. Parades in places like Torres Vedras mock political figures and current events with sharp wit, offering a playful yet critical reflection on society.
Regional diversity: Each town or city has its own unique take on Carnaval – whether it’s Madeira’s dual parades or Loulé’s historic floats – making every celebration distinct.
CARNAVAL BY REGION
Lazarim
The Carnaval de Lazarim stands out as one of Portugal’s most authentic and traditional celebrations, featuring hand-carved wooden masks that depict grotesque and demonic figures, a stark contrast to the feathers and sequins of other festivities. This unique Entrudo, rooted in ancient pagan rituals, transforms the village into a theatre of social commentary, where men and women engage in ritualised verbal
battles of wit and fun, exchanging playful yet pointed insults that mock local gossip and social dynamics, ultimately culminating in the dramatic burning of symbolic mannequins and puppets that represent the community’s collective desire to purge the old and welcome renewal.
Torres Vedras
Known as ‘the most Portuguese Carnaval,’ this celebration emphasizes satire with humorous floats that mock political figures and societal issues. Elaborate floats transform political critique into an art form, while the iconic matrafonas – men dressed in exaggerated women’s costumes – add layers of playful subversion to the celebration. Rooted in rural traditions yet vibrantly modern, this Carnaval turns
social commentary into a communitydriven performance and witty critique of contemporary life.
Podence: a UNESCO status Carnaval Celebration
In the heart of northeastern Portugal, the village of Podence becomes the epicentre of the legendary Entrudo Chocalheiro – a celebration that combines cultural preservation, theatrical performance, and mischievous pranks. What could have turned out to be a fading carnaval tradition has instead grown into an increasingly popular spectacle that draws thousands of visitors each year.
This UNESCO-recognised tradition feels like stepping back in time to witness pagan fertility rites firsthand. At the core of this
DID YOU KNOW: Brazil’s world-famous Carnaval originated as a Portuguese colonial import but was radically transformed by the creative genius of Indigenous and African cultures. What began as a European pre-Lenten festival became a revolutionary celebration of resistance and cultural identity, with Afro-Brazilian communities turning samba rhythms and vibrant street performances into a global phenomenon that now attracts millions of visitors annually. The modern Carnaval is less a European tradition and more a powerful narrative of cultural survival, where enslaved populations reclaimed a festival and reimagined it as an explosive expression of freedom, creativity, and collective joy.
Previous page, It all hapens at Ovar. This page, above, top left, clockwise: Carnaval celebrations in Ovar; Torres Vedras; Madeira; Podence. Opposite page: stilt-walker at Loulé. This year, Loulé’s Carnaval in the Avenida will take place 2nd, 3rd and 4th March.
spectacle are the Caretos – mischievous figures in fringed costumes and brass masks, their waists adorned with jangling cowbells. Once the domain of young, single men engaging in a raucous courtship ritual, the tradition has evolved into an allinclusive celebration. Today, grandparents, children, and even young girls don handcrafted costumes passed down through generations, breathing new life into ancient customs. As they leap through the streets, perching on balconies, rattling bells at tourists, and occasionally sneaking a snack from a neighbour’s kitchen, they remind us that a tradition doesn’t have to be solemn to be significant.
What begins in this village quickly spreads, as the spirit of this UNESCOrecognised Intangible Cultural Heritage sweeps across the northern region, transforming each community it touches into a living, breathing festival of cultural expression.
Loulé
While several Portuguese cities claim to host the nation’s oldest Carnaval, Loulé claims the longest-running float parade in the country. Since its inception in 1906, our southern spectacle has become a cherished tradition for Algarve families, drawing crowds year after year. The three-day celebration is a vibrant fusion of Portuguese and Brazilian influences, featuring parades with dancers, performers, and giant caricatures of famous politicians and celebrities. Each year brings a new theme, ensuring a fresh experience for returning revelers.
What sets Loulé’s Carnaval apart is not just its longevity, but its inclusivity and commitment to community. One day is dedicated to children, with young participants donning costumes and painted faces. From its very beginning, the Carnaval has maintained a philanthropic spirit, with a portion of each ticket sale dedicated to supporting local charities. Loulé’s centennial Carnaval is among the finalists for the 9th Iberian Festival Awards, where it competes for Best Festivity.
Madeira
On this island paradise, Carnaval offers two distinct experiences: the elegant Allegoric Parade and the irreverent Cortejo Trapalhão.
While the former dazzles spectators with elaborate floats and choreographed dances reminiscent of
Rio de Janeiro’s samba parades, the latter embraces slapstick hilarity and encourages everyone to participate with locals donning improvised costumes to satirise current events and political figures, embodying the carnaval spirit of ‘nobody takes it personally.’
Lisbon and Porto
While Lisbon and Porto may not host the most extravagant Carnaval celebrations in Portugal, both cities offer unique and vibrant festivities that capture the spirit of this pre-Lenten tradition. Lisbon transforms its historic neighbourhoods into stages for diverse celebrations, from the Chapitô parade to the environmentally conscious Lisbloco group. In Porto, you can expect a blend of Brazilian-inspired events and local flavour, with the Bloco Tá Fixe and Bloco Carnavrau Porto parades bringing samba rhythms and colourful costumes to the streets. Both cities embrace the Carnaval spirit with masked balls, street parties, and culinary indulgences, albeit on a more intimate scale compared to some of Portugal’s more renowned Carnaval destinations.
CARNAVAL’S ROLE IN MODERN PORTUGAL
As Portugal navigates globalization and tourism growth, Carnaval remains a vital part of its cultural fabric – both preserving traditions and adapting them for contemporary audiences.
In recent years, sustainability has become an important focus for some Carnavals. Towns like Torres Vedras have begun incorporating recycled materials into their float designs while promoting ecofriendly practices among
Tourism has also brought new opportunities – and challenges – to Portuguese Carnavals. While international visitors contribute to local economies and help spread awareness about these unique traditions, there’s always a risk of commercialisation diluting authenticity. Yet, many towns have managed this balance well by prioritising community involvement over profit-driven
feast for all senses
AWhile parades often steal the spotlight during Carnaval, there’s much more to explore beyond the floats and music:
Taste: Sweet treats like filhós (fried dough sprinkled with sugar) or malassadas (similar to doughnuts) are staples during this time.
Sound: The rhythmic beats of samba schools in Ovar or traditional folk songs performed in smaller towns like Sesimbra add vibrancy.
Touch: Interactive rituals like Podence’s Caretos, where participants feel woolen costumes or jangling bells up close.
Sight & Smell: Vibrant costumes paired with floral scents (especially in Madeira) create an unforgettable sensory experience.
CARNAVAL VOCABULARY
Desfile: Parade
Entrudo: from Latin meaning ‘entrance’ or ‘to enter’, marking the first steps towards Lent
Bloco: Group of dancers and musicians performing together
Folia: Revelry and joyous atmosphere
Fantasia/Traje: Costume/Outfit
Máscara: Mask
Brincadeira: Playfulness
Chocalhar: Traditional rhythmic movement, especially associated with Caretos performances
CARNAVAL FOOD
The food during Carnaval represents a time of excess before the lean days of Lent, emphasizing the rich dishes that celebrate community and tradition.
Cozido à Portuguesa: Hearty Portuguese stew
Feijoada: Bean stew
Papas de Sarrabulho: Meat ‘porridge’ (North of Portugal)
TERÇA-FEIRA GORDA
Fat Tuesday: The final day of Carnaval celebrations in Portugal is marked by excessive eating in addition to the street parties and parades before the start of Lent. It represents the last opportunity for indulgence and revelry before the solemn religious period begins. You can count on indulgent meals made up of fatty meats, preserved pork parts (ears, snout, feet), sausages, hams and cheeses… with plenty of wine and cheese, of course.
& GORGEOUS GUT-LOVING
YONEST IS THE BRAINCHILD OF LISBONBORN ENTREPRENEUR FILIPE BOTTO. IT IS NOT ONLY A THRIVING BUSINESS BUT A TESTAMENT TO THE POWER OF AUTHENTICITY AND INNOVATION IN TODAY’S WORLD OF MASS PRODUCTION Words: SALLY DIXON
YONEST FOUNDER Filipe Botto’s journey from traditional Portuguese upbringing to innovative food entrepreneur is an inspiring one. Born and raised in Lisbon to Portuguese parents, he began his career following a conventional path; management studies at Lisbon’s NOVA University, followed by a position at a Portuguese investment bank. Yet, even back then, he carried a spark of entrepreneurial spirit, organising university events and sports tournaments for the student council. “I always enjoyed being busy and creating things from scratch,” he reflects.
“That’s my personality – creating something from nothing.”
Filipe’s world expanded dramatically when he moved to London age 26 to join the bank’s UK team. Immersed in a bustling, multicultural environment, he discovered a passion for new ideas and perspectives.
“I didn’t know I enjoyed other cultures so much,” he says. “London gave me that.” After three intensive years of the London ‘work hard, play hard’ mentality, he decided to pursue an MBA at INSEAD’s Asia Campus in Singapore in 2009. Inspired by courses in entrepreneurship, and surrounded by like-minded individuals, he started dreaming of ventures that could blend his love for innovation and his passion for food.
The ‘Aha!’ moment
Having completed his MBA, Filipe moved back to Portugal, and it was walking the supermarket yogurt aisle one day when his aha moment came. Seeing shelves of plastic tubs filled with the same sugary, processed yogurts, dominated by multinationals sparked an idea. The yogurts reminded him of how his grandmother used to make homemade yogurt– pure, simple, and
made with love the old school way. So, he decided to give it a try in his own kitchen. The result? A creamy, delicious yogurt made with just fresh milk and live cultures, free from artificial additives. That first spoonful was a game-changer. Filipe recalls thinking, “This isn’t what we buy in supermarkets, it’s incredibly different. This is what yogurt should be”. The realisation was profound. This yogurt wasn’t just food; it was a celebration of tradition, taste, and health. It symbolised what modern products often lacked – respect for ingredients and authenticity.
“People forget that yogurt is an ancient fermentation process, like fine cheeses and wines,” he says.
Building a brand rooted in trust
What started as a personal project became an obsession, inspired by a deep respect for natural ingredients and the desire to bring something honest to the table. Filipe dove deep into the science and history of yogurt-making, discovering that the traditional Greek method of straining regular yogurt, naturally created creaminess without requiring additives, cream, or milk powder. “We went from 7,000 years ago when we knew how to make natural yogurt, to the big industries deciding to make it cheap and very affordable with flavours, lots of sugars, and artificial additives,” he explains. “They decided it for us, and we forgot how it used to be done.”
From the beginning, Yonest was more than a yogurt company. It was a mission to create a brand built on
transparency, and quality. The journey began in earnest in 2013, with Filipe crafting a business plan while still working in investment banking. He sought out microbiology experts and dairy specialists from a university in Porto to refine his homemade recipes, focusing on using only fresh milk and live cultures—nothing more.
By 2014, Yonest introduced its products through a novel approach, street food trucks. Charming Piaggio vans roamed the streets of Lisbon serving fresh artisanal yogurt in glass jars to locals. The food trucks weren’t just about sales, they were a way to connect with the community, gather feedback, and introduce a new generation to what yogurt could really taste like. The timing proved serendipitous. Portugal was emerging from an economic crisis, and the government was actively supporting startups through initiatives like Start Up Lisbon. Yonest’s launch coincided with Portugal’s transformation into Europe’s startup capital, helping change perceptions about entrepreneurship in a country traditionally dominated by family businesses.
Navigating challenges and growth
The journey wasn’t without its challenges. The early days of production were fraught with trial and error. Cultures, being alive, are tricky little suckers, requiring precise conditions to thrive. The process demanded constant attention to temperature and other variables. “If I knew it all, maybe I wouldn’t have started,” he admits with a laugh. Yet, the hard work paid off. The food trucks garnered media attention and attracted small retailers eager to stock Yonest products.
As the brand gained traction, it expanded into larger retailers like Continente and Pingo Doce, eventually crossing borders to partner with Carrefour in Spain. Despite these milestones, the path was not smooth. The COVID-19 pandemic presented unprecedented challenges, disrupting production and forcing tough decisions, including layoffs. However, the pandemic pause also became an opportunity to reevaluate. Filipe realised that scaling Yonest required a new approach. Rather than managing production in-house, the company partnered with a dairy outside Lisbon. This collaboration allowed Yonest to maintain its high standards while leveraging the dairy’s expertise and infrastructure.
In 2023, Yonest emerged stronger than ever, unveiling a rebranded identity. With clean, modern paper-based packaging, and a focus on natural nutrition, health and wellbeing. Today, Yonest offers Greek yogurt, lactose-free yogurt, and skyr, all made staying true to its roots of fresh milk and live cultures. Together with ‘Yonest Friends’ – sachets of dehydrated nutritious ingredients – customers can personalise their yogurt flavour naturally. The reinvention reflects Yonest’s commitment to staying ahead of trends while remaining grounded in its principles. “The holy grail of food is about quality and authenticity,” Filipe explains. “Food becomes who we are, so we should consume the best version, not fake foods.”
The road ahead
After a decade-long journey, Filipe has transformed from a traditional banker to a food innovator who’s proving that sometimes the best way forward is to look back. His story embodies Portugal’s broader transformation from a traditionally minded society to an entrepreneurial hub, showcasing how one person’s commitment to quality and authenticity can help reshape an industry. He says enthusiastically: “We found some space on a crazily competitive shelf, and now we need to continue to grow”. With plans for plant-based options and international expansion, Yonest’s revolution in the yogurt aisle is just beginning. Tell me your tastebuds aren’t tingling for a yogurty snack right now! Next time you’re in the supermarket give it a try – your gut will thank you for it.
The benefits of natural yogurt
1
Enhances gut microbiome diversity
Natural yogurt contains live probiotic cultures that help maintain a balanced and diverse gut microbiome, crucial for digestive and overall health.
2 Improves digestion and gut health
Probiotics in yogurt aid in breaking down food, absorbing nutrients, and reducing bloating, gas, and constipation. They can also help restore gut flora balance after antibiotic use.
3 Strengthens the immune system
A healthy gut microbiome supports immune function by preventing the growth of harmful bacteria and enhancing the body’s natural defences.
4 Supports mental health (via the gut-brain axis)
The gut microbiome influences mental health through the gut-brain connection. Probiotics in yogurt may help reduce stress, anxiety, and depression by influencing neurotransmitter production (such as serotonin).
5 Supports weight management and metabolism
Yogurt is rich in protein, which helps with satiety and reducing cravings. Pair it with some nuts and berries for a balanced snack.
PROTECTING THE FUTURE
THE RAMALHETE MARINE STATION IN THE RIA FORMOSA IS CARRYING OUT VITAL RESEARCH WORK THAT WILL MAKE A DIFFERENCE TO THE HEALTH OF OUR OCEANS, NOW MORE URGENT THAN EVER BEFORE, IF WE ARE TO MAKE THE WORLD A BETTER PLACE FOR FUTURE GENERATIONS. AND THE SEAHORSE PLAYS A KEY ROLE
Words: LUCY MAYER
IN ANCIENT GREECE, the word Hippokampos was coined to describe a mythical creature, part horse, part sea monster, which was seen as a symbol of power and authority. A gold hippocamp dating back to the 6th Century BC was also discovered in a hoard taken from the kingdom of Lydia, an ancient realm in Anatolia which occupied the valleys of the Hermus and Cayster rivers. Ancient European and Philippine lore viewed seahorses as protectors of sailors, guiding them safely through rough waters and warding off evil spirits. These are just three examples of the importance once placed upon the gentle seahorse, as it is known today, by our ancestors. Who would have thought that this now vulnerable and threatened marine species would become such an invaluable tool in evaluating the health of our oceans, coral reefs and seabeds world-wide?
The Algarve research
This is where the Algarve’s Ramalhete Marine Station comes in. Nestled within the Ria Formosa lagoon, not far from the beach at Faro, lies this intriguing building, managed by the Center of Marine Sciences, or CCMAR-Algarve, an independent research centre associated with the University.
This faculty, and the researchers beavering away inside of it, definitely know the importance of the humble seahorse, and they have been shouting about it for some time. Ramalhete is doing important things in marine conservation from researching why there appears to be an abundance of long snouted seahorses over short snouted ones around the Algarve, to promoting sustainable ocean practices across the globe. From the outside, this building looks very much like any other you might find lining the Algarve’s coastline.
Rita Costa Abecasis is the leader of the CCMAR Science Communication Unit, the foremost marine science research centre in Portugal, which gathers together experts in the fields of marine
Funding for a project like this does not come cheap. To create the trails, restore the surrounding habitat and create an education station will cost somewhere in the region of €500,000 to €600,000.
RITA COSTA ABECASIS
biology, ecology and oceanography.
She fills me in, with much enthusiasm, on the history of the Ramalhete Marine Station.
The team can trace its origins back to 1885 when it was used for and supported the Algarve’s large and once-lucrative tuna trap operations – a vital source of income to the people living in the region. The operation spanned thousands of acres, and thousands of tonnes of tuna were fished every year as a result.
What is now the Ramalhete Marine Station was once part of an extremely important fishing industry for 200 families, and this region of Portugal that depended on it, living in the huts around it during the summer. The chance to make the money they needed was fleeting, as during the winter months, these same families would retreat to the hills. But in the 1940s and 50s tuna populations collapsed due to overfishing and what was big business died out.
In the 1970s, the building was acquired by the University and by the 1990s had been remodelled to its current form as a marine research centre. Two different operations are based at the site; one supporting fishery and commercial ventures, which still remain a vital part of Algarvian life, and the other, the research.
Introducing change
Ramalhete is an icon, with marine scientists flocking from all over Europe to use it as a base to conduct interviews as well as their own research. But the building is tired and the aesthetics do not
Seahorses are a ‘flagship’ species because they are bio-indicative, which means they represent the environment around them. If the lagoon is suffering due to human impact then the seahorses will become less abundant or even disappear.
JORGE PALMA
match the important work being done inside of it.
For starters, access to it is not good if you are coming by bus or using a car as the roads leading up to it are no more than dirt-tracks with a minimal parking. Rita and her team have big plans for the site. As well as improving public transport access, they want to create an educational trail leading from the beach to the marine station, complimented with information and activity points centring around the types of wild and marine life you may not know existed in the Ria Formosa, and this of course will include fundamental details about the creature which is the basis for this whole renovation: the seahorse.
The team also wants to educate visitors on the Algarve’s historic Salinas or salt springs via an education centre to be built on site alongside the original renovated building. But funding for a project like this does not come cheap. To create the trails, restore the surrounding habitat and create an education station will cost somewhere in the region of €500,000 to €600,000.
The project, Rita says, will be split into stages: the creation and installation of the interpretive information panels and the redevelopment of the original building. This is protected land, so this phase of the project is expected to be the most time-consuming, expensive and difficult. The team at Ramalhete are working with the Almancil International Rotary Club to crowdfund for part of the financing.
Twenty years ago the world’s highest abundance of long snout and short snout sea horses were recorded in the Ria Formosa lagoon in South Portugal. By 2020-2023 the abundance had been reduced by 94%.
Rotary’s involvement
It was the Rotary Club’s then President, Uschi Kuhn, who put together a team and initiated the club’s Seahorse project.
The aim was to work with the relevant authorities and introduce ways of increasing the seahorse population. The dedicated seahorse group worked intensively for four years, raised the €50,000, and in collaboration with the organisations ICNF, CCMAR, UALG and AIRC were the ones who secured the area where the seahorses are protected. Today, the Ramalhete Marine Station is of utmost importance to the ocean research community, which is why the team there is desperately keen to redevelop it for the future generations of marine scientists.
One such person benefitting from the use of the building in its current form is Dr Jorge Palma, a seahorse researcher who is fondly known as ‘the seahorse specialist.’ He works out of a lab at the Ramalhete station and has also been a key figure in securing funding for the redevelopment. His laboratory would be part of the renovation and therefore a part of attracting tourists and educators to the site.
Jorge has been studying seahorses for many years and got involved with the Rotary Club when they showed an interest in the work being done there some three or four years ago. Jorge spearheads conservation projects, all aimed at preserving his precious seahorses, and he is enthusiastic about explaining why these creatures, revered by ancient civilisations, could be about to pave the way for the future of marine life research and education.
Jorge explains that seahorses usually tend to live in coastal, protected areas like the Ria Formosa Lagoon, where they are in an abundance, most likely because of its shallow waters, which are well protected from
the harsh Atlantic. It’s a calmer environment than the shoreline, which can be rougher and not as sheltered. Within the lagoons they have different habitats – seagrass, which provides them with food, complex sediments, habitats which are made up of shells and rocks and algae, and then the protected areas, which are a necessity as seahorses have evolved to be slower than other fish and marine mammals and need good hiding places.
Jorge explains that seahorses are a “flagship” species because they are bio-indicative, which means they represent the environment around them. If the lagoon is suffering due to human impact like illegal fishing or, more commonly, habitat integration, then the seahorses will become less abundant or even disappear.
This is an unlikely characteristic as once seahorses set down roots, they like to stay, so if numbers are leaving an area, it’s a good insight into what is happening behind the scenes environmentally. Jorge says the key to the new Ramalhete marine station will be getting the general public on board.
Parts of the Ria Formosa have a yacht and boat mooring problem – tourists naturally flock to the area for its beauty and this is only increasing year on year as the popularity of the Algarve as a holiday destination grows. Fishing families also need to make money, and although they live around the lagoon, Jorge says they aren’t necessarily emotionally connected to it because it is a source of income.
These combined issues are a hard mindset to change but one it’s hoped the marine station development will play a role in guiding. Jorge hopes that once more people have access to the work being done at the centre, they will feel more included and be more open to helping conserve the seahorse. Jorge says they all need to find a balance between conserving the lagoon for marine life while enjoying and using it.
The right message
Persuading tourists, visitors and younger generations may not be that hard, but one worrying trend Jorge is noticing among the fishing communities at the moment is “misinformation” – whether it be word of mouth or on social media – that a newly-redeveloped Ramalhete Marine Station would look to deter fishing or even ban it, which is causing considerable concern on both sides. Here, Jorge and Rita are clear. A redeveloped Marine Station is about research, education and conservation. This is not a project designed to bring an end to the fishing industry or stop people from having fun on the water. Instead, it’s one designed to bring the community closer together, preserve the Algarve coast for years to come, and to once again recognise the mighty power of the tiny seahorse.
Up the drive
THERE’S NOTHING BETTER THAN BREAKING OUT OF YOUR COMFORT ZONE AND DISCOVERING THE MAGIC THAT LIES JUST AROUND THAT UNKNOWN CORNER OR DOWN THE ROAD LESS TRAVELLED. FOR INSPIRATION, WE ASKED THREE ALGARVE ‘ EXPLORERS ’ TO SHARE THEIR MOST MEMORABLE DAY TRIPS. MORE TO COME NEXT MONTH
Words: DEBBIE REYNOLDS
THE HAPPY WANDERER
South African expat and former business owner Anthon Dreyer is something of a road trip aficionado, and he’s found his sweet spot in the Algarve. One of his all-time favourites is the stretch from Loulé to Salir.
“If you’re wondering why this is one of my more memorable road trips, I suppose it’s because the countryside is very similar to that of northern KZN (in SA) where I used to drive to go scuba diving,” says Anthon. “It’s what I would call bushveld, and is especially pretty after the winter rains when the dusty shrubs and undergrowth are lush and green.”
Another hook, he says, is that while it’s only a short distance from the Algarve’s tourist traps, it feels like its hundreds of miles away from the madding crowds. “There’s usually very little traffic on the road and the villages you pass through are those typically ‘sleepy’ traditional rural Algarve towns, with a few whitewashed houses and the ubiquitous roadside snack bar.”
So, simply exit Loulé going north on the M525 and after about 15km, spot the signs for Salir, where you’ll turn onto the Estrada do Cemitério and then left, aiming for Rua da Igreja.
“Perched on top of the hill is the town’s imposing water tower and medieval São Sebastião Church, which is your destination point,” says Anthon. “If it’s out of season you’re likely to find parking in the church square, so use your satnav to get there – it’s a windy road up the side of a hill. If not, park at the
From wide open spaces and views that will take your
bottom of the hill and walk up. I promise it’s not too tedious.”
The reason he’s pointing you to the church, besides the stunning views over the hills, is that this is where you’ll find one of his favourite tapas restaurants, called Janela da Serra.
“In summer, it’s great to sit outside, under the shade of the church, but beware its tolling bells, which can scare you half to death! During the cooler months (note the restaurant is usually closed over January/February time but open from March), sitting inside is cosy and warm and you still have lovely views.
“The service is friendly, and the food is superb. The menu is seasonal, but, if you can, try the farmer’s pork cheek on the bone, chili crispy squid and chicken samosas.”
If you fancy stretching your legs after lunch, another attraction nearby is the crumbling ruins of the 12th century castle built by King Sancho after he conquered the Moors, and the Salir Museum, which houses interesting archaeological remains.
“On your way into Salir, you might also have noticed the colourful building decorated with stylish graffiti just before the Ponte de Salir. This old olive oil press is now the headquarters of the Satori Artistic Association, known across the Algarve for its innovative entertainment and thoughtful approach to graffiti. It’s worth a stop to admire the renditions of famous musicians and artists. Oh, and it’s very Insta-worthy if you’re so inclined!”
Anthon says he loves this easy, relaxing drive, which is suitable for anyone and everyone. “Ideally, I like to head up for lunch and then take a tranquil drive back digesting the rolling scrub, geological formations and fragrant dry orchards.”
Get away, find somewhere new to adventure, and look all around to see land- and seascapes, small villages where time seems to stand still, churches with a special charm. Discover where the locals eat, and what they choose, and you'll be coming back time and time again for more.
World adventurer Charlie Perring knows a thing or two about off the beaten track. The Drift Adventure owner has pretty much walked or dirt-biked the length and breadth of the Algarve, but when it comes to the comfort of a car, he loves the unspoiled beauty of the 12km road from Carrapateira in Aljezur on the Algarve west coast to Praia do Portinho do Forno.“Starting in Carrapateira on the N268 (heading north), turn left off the main road at Eurico Porfirio Cabrita Restaurant and follow the road (CM1134) up to the top of the cliffs that overlook Praia da Bordeira,” says Charlie.
“Here the road turns from tarmac to dirt as it swings south to follow the coastline. Stay on the CM1134 for several kilometres, keeping the coastline tight on your right as you hit a fork in the road, until you reach Praia do Portinho do Forno and the stunning Sítio do Forno restaurant perched on the cliffs overlooking the Atlantic. Enjoy a wonderful lunch of freshly caught seabass or grilled chicken on the outside terrace with spectacular views over the Atlantic Ocean.” His hot tip is that it’s probably best to book ahead, because the restaurant gets busy in the warmer months and closes at times during winter.
He also advises that, while the drive is great on any sunny day so you can
take advantage of the views, it is probably best to avoid it during the peak summer months when it gets busy and the dirt road throws up a lot of dust.
“So, spring and autumn are your best bests, especially if you take a walk down the little road to the side of Sítio do Forno where you’ll find a cove and fishing boats. You can walk off the boat ramp for a refreshing dip in the ocean.”
To return to Carrapateira, keep heading south to Praia do Amedo before following the road northeast back to the N268, which will bring you back into Carrapateira.
“This is probably one of my most memorable drives, with absolutely stunning views of the big breakers rolling in across the Atlantic Ocean,” says Charlie. “The beaches of Bordeira and Amado are well worth a stretch of the legs. And if you’re a surfer, make sure to take your board and catch a few waves.”
He says there are scenic viewpoints all along the route, marked by large copper alphabetical letters on the track ends. “There are also wooden walkways, which take you to various cliff heads with the ocean crashing onto the rocks below. The whole route is a photographer’s dream!
“This is a must-do for anyone who wants to get off the beaten track and breathe in the ocean. Just bear in mind that much of the drive is a dirt track, so take it slowly if you’re in a low-slung car.”
Debbie Reynolds, Yours Truly, loves a lazy Sunday meander in search of great views, delicious food and memorable moments.
The Algarve never ceases to delight with its quirky little villages, breathtaking panoramas and unexpected foodie finds.
One of my favourite drives is from Caldas de Monchique to Mount Fóia, which, at 902m above sea level, is the highest point in the Algarve.
To get to Caldas de Monchique, from the A22, take Exit 5 to N124 (towards Portimão), follow the N124 for about 3km and then exit onto the N266. In about 10km you reach Caldas de Monchique where the fun starts.
I suggest timing your drive to stop here for a coffee (or aperitif) and a wander around the pretty village set around a cobbled square with beautiful shady trees. Take a walk along the natural spring water stream, then grab a drink at one of the little restaurants or bars.
Pop back onto the N226 and enjoy the countryside of cork, eucalyptus and pine trees as you head for the village of Monchique, about 9km up the hill. This is definitely worth another stop, but
perhaps do it on your way back down, after you’ve summited Mount Fóia.
Stay on the N266 and it will take you on a windy 8km climb right to the top of Mount Fóia, where on a clear day you can see the Atlantic Ocean in all its glory from the coasts of Portimão and Lagos to Cabo de São Vicente. This is definitely your picture-perfect moment.
Don’t miss out on a visit to the craft shop on top of the mountain (not to be confused with the rather disappointing snack bar), which looks like nothing from the outside, but inside is a little Aladdin’s Cave of irresistible goodies, from home-made biscuits and chocolates to jewellery, handbags, candles and the region’s famous honey and medronho liqueur. Hot tip – there are toilets here! Okay, now you’re definitely ready for lunch, and you’re spoilt for choice. If you prefer your meal with a view, then O Luar da Fóia on the way down from Mount Fóia is a must. Whether seated on the terrace or inside the glass paneled restaurant, the views over the Serra de Monchique are spectacular.
The menu offers traditional Portuguese food with a twist – think mushrooms in port wine with Monchique honey, black pork cheek with chestnuts finished off with carob mousse and
vanilla ice cream. Insider tip – the wild boar stew is another winner!
Or you can choose to stop in the traditional village of Monchique, where you can explore side streets and the quirky gift shops, fruit and veg stores, coffee shops and restaurants. Look out for some of the buildings boasting artistic murals and there’s even an old phone booth, which, like so many in old Portuguese villages, acts as a mini book exchange.
A favourite restaurant here is A Charrette offering hearty Portuguese dishes, heavily leaning towards the regions’s famous black pork. The ‘Monchique style’ cabbage stew with black pork and traditional sausage is quite delicious.The great thing about this drive, if you choose a fair-weather day, is that it is good all year round. Don’t go in the rain or fog, because you’re going to want to get out and wander around a lot. And if you fancy a different type of drive, then aim for a romantic sunset, which is best in the warmer months. Time your drive to arrive at Mount Fóia around 20 minutes before the sun goes down, take a picnic and enjoy the spectacle. Or you can enjoy a drink and snack at the little food truck Alecrim, perfectly perched at the best viewpoint on the mountain.
Opposite page top: São Sebastião Church in Salir; bottom: praia do Portinho do Forno. This page, top left clockwise: the delight of little local shops and galeries; the view from Fóia; Restaurante Luar Da Fóia; Capela de Santa Teresa in Caldas de Monchique
LIFE IN PORTUGAL HAS BECOME THE DREAM FOR MANY, BUT INCREASING NUMBERS ARE LOOKING AWAY FROM THE MAIN CITIES AND SUN-FILLED BEACHES AND SEARCHING FOR SOMETHING VERY DIFFERENT IN THE CENTRE AND NORTH OF THE COUNTRY, WHERE COMMUNITY AND TRADITION PARTNER WITH OLD BUILDS WAITING FOR A NEW LOVE
Words: PAUL REES
PERSONAL PROPERTY
MUCH OF my decision to move from the Algarve to the central region of Portugal came from an unyielding feeling of ‘saudade’, the untranslatable Portuguese word used to express a yearning for the past when things were easier, the sun always shone, and life was simpler.
My personal ‘saudade’ period was the Algarve of the early 1980s. I lived there for a year or so after my parents had built a villa for their retirement, in the countryside to the west of Armação de Pêra. Life was slower then, the phone line took three years to be installed, but there was time for meals and fishing, wine and laughter, beaches and sunsets, nature and gardening.
I moved to Portugal fulltime in 2003 and after my father died in 2010, I remained in Portugal, knowing that I could never return to the easy-going lifestyle of the 80s while I became increasingly intolerant of the frenetic, tourism-based economy. This creeping unease triggered an impetus
for change and a desire to do something different and try and make an impact.
In 2019 I took a break from local property developments and travelled north by car, with no agenda but to ‘see more of the country’, and to stop imagining I knew anything about Portuguese life outside of the Algarve.
I got no further than the magnificent Serra da Lousã and Serra da Estrela mountain ranges which dominate the Central Region and, far from relaxing, spent ten days talking to estate agents, lawyers and builders. This resulted in a single-minded and hugely arrogant conviction that I should establish a property business to help bring people back to some of the empty properties that mark all of Portugal’s inland towns and villages
Decision time
Thoughts developed into a fuller plan and my research revealed an almost perfect set of economic influences, a huge supply of old buildings, local availability of construction skills, a lack of renovated properties for sale and a steadily growing demand from national and overseas buyers to move to the countryside, inland villages and small towns.
Big questions remained. When faced with such beautiful surroundings, why are Portugal’s inland areas underpopulated? When faced with the sunny south, who would opt for the centre of the country where the weather patterns are notably different?
The Rural Properties business was inaugurated on the 7th floor office at Edge International Lawyers in Lisbon and, with the paperwork signed, it was time to be off and test the market.
Small is beautiful, so with the help of some inspired investors, the company purchased four cottages in villages near Figueiró dos Vinhos and Castanheira de Pera, and work began on their renovation.
As the work advanced and the business started to promote itself through the Covidrelated lock-down periods, I remained keenly aware of the success/failure rate for startups in Portugal but was not expecting a lack of support and positivity from many in the business and private circles, which I had enjoyed in the Algarve and Lisbon.
I did not need to become an advocate of rural living as the post-Covid landscape had shifted, many people now wanted to move
Above: The river at Dornes, Ferreira de Zezere. Opposite page, bottom: Classical detail of an Art Nouveau house in Serta
from cities and live somewhere in the countryside: “as long as there’s fibre optic and a good phone signal.”
Coming together
Portugal’s interior started to attract investors, remote workers and young couples wanting to get on the property ladder. Overseas retirees, while reasearching the cost of property in Lisbon and the Algarve, started to look inland and further north where huge cash savings were weighed against accessibility and weather, healthcare and low population density, water security and availability of leisure activities.
As for weather, rainfall in the central region brings water security with brimming reservoirs and rivers, and no divisive discussions about desalination plants and new pipelines. The winters are a bit colder so insulation and central heating should be high on the wish-list for incomers who seek comfortable homes.
Moving from village property renovations to those in towns, Rural Properties bought a gem, Casa Adelina, an early 1800s townhouse overlooking the old market square in Pedrógão Pequeno, Sertã.
The property had lain empty as the last owner, the town’s nurse, had died over 20 years ago. Her name and reputation lived
on with several elderly ladies informing me that “Nurse Adelina had delivered all of my children” as well as dealing with farm accidents, illnesses and broken bones.
The property had been affected by the passage of time, yet the contents of each cabinet and chest of drawers revealed a medically rigorous neatness and order. Sheets folded with creases ironed, cutlery in perfect rows, family pictures sitting undisturbed under blankets of dust, drawers with bandages and ointments looking as if they had been tidied away only the day before. Along with the responsibility of a significant structural renovation at Casa Adelina was a sensitivity towards the local community as all knew the house, its history and its last, much-admired inhabitant who now lay silent in the local cemetery.
Building the portfolio
A second historic property then was purchased, just over the river Zêzere in Pedrógão Grande. Dating back at least to the early 16th century, the old Church-run hostel for travellers and pilgrims had been operating as a tavern and shop until Covid regulations closed their doors and the Lisbon-based owner decided to sell.
The acquisition of the Albergaria de São Pedro elevated the Rural Properties business, which was fast becoming known
for its sensitivity with developments and, perhaps as importantly, its sensitivity towards those for whom a building had formed part of local collective memory.
When the Council’s architect explained that she remembered the Albergaria’s shop at an age when she could not see over the countertop, it’s best to tread carefully and be aware that, unless born into it, nobody is able to define each intricate thread that binds together a community.
The hostel’s renovation to date has been a trip back through years of different building techniques. The private, 600m2 walled garden includes the remains of an old chapel, which had been used as a store for gardening equipment, pots and treatments.
At the Deed signing, I asked how long the property had been in the family; the answer was delightfully vague with no recollection of any previous owner, “except the Church.”
Each of our business’s properties has a history which deserves to be recorded; a village house that was “rebuilt by the State after a fire in 1962”, a mill house that was abandoned in the 1960s “after the dam broke”, a farmhouse from the late 1700s that was extended in 1850 as “that family just kept having children”.
Heart-felt
It’s not all about crumbling mansions and
Top left, clockwise: Casal de Simão, on the popular Aldeia de Xisto trail; an example of simple renovation of a cottage interior; a new roof marks the start of a renovation process
stone-built mill houses. The market is full of variety and, for those looking at renovating and selling property in the Central Region, one key factor is the amount of time completed projects are on the market before being sold. Generally, village properties find buyers slowly, townhouses sell quicker and apartments faster still. Much is to do with the price point, but well-presented renovations with central heating, insulation and doubleglazing will sell quicker than those that lack these now basic attributes.
There is a skill in converting unfeasibly large historic houses into apartments. Rural Properties is remodelling one such property in Sertã, Castelo Branco, into several apartments and a three-bedroom house. The buildings comprise a warren of passages, shops, extensions, garden areas, old basements and hidden toilets. The apartments being created will retain beautiful woodwork and each has a classic view over the old part of town.
Apartments are popular and command a premium, especially those in historic zone buildings. Many buyers want a part-time, lock-and-leave country life without the work of a garden when there to relax. Casa Adelina, mentioned earlier, has a drinks terrace on an upper level but no garden, and costs less to buy per square metre than a local apartment. National buyers are now having to compete
with the influx of foreign buyers, notably from the USA, Canada, UK and northern EU countries. The apartments in Sertã are under two hours’ drive from Lisbon, ideal for weekends and summer holidays with teenagers enjoying the town and adults chilling out by one of the two rivers that run through town. This lifestyle dream is not unachievable, but prices are rising with foreign buyers competing for space.
Where did the money come from to construct these substantial buildings? It is a mistake to imagine that everyone was poor just because they lived in a rural area. Locally, money was made from textiles and agriculture, forestry and manufacturing. There also remain substantial mansions built by those returning from the Portuguese colonies, their bank accounts bulging.
The descendants of these early, successful entrepreneurs still have choices, hold or sell the old family home. Many mansions are left to decay and become uneconomic moneypits; many families leave it too late.
One former mansion in Pedrógão Grande, built by one of two brothers who between them dominated local agriculture for a century or more, lies forlorn and crumbling, while the descendants of the other brother live in a mansion in the same street, kept in good order and lived in full-time.
Dealing with multiple owners, each of
which needs to sign the Deed of Sale, can be a diplomatic challenge and may not be without its heartache, but having the reputation of a sensitive developer – if that’s not a contradiction in terms – helps in this regard. Overall, sellers are delighted that property prices have risen and that there is energy back in the market, while a few regret that they do not have the means or the inclination themselves to renovate and sell on.
Every good reason
History aside, the reason for relocating to Portugal’s Central Region for most is money and lifestyle, in that order. Many buy fully upgraded properties at a fraction of the prices now current in the Algarve, leaving money in the bank with which to enjoy themselves, make investments, travel more and live with more financial security while connecting to the environment and centuries-old local culture.
I am pleased to report that my feeling of ‘saudade’ has evaporated. I now look back at the Algarve in the 1980s with contentment; it is now simply a reference point with no more yearning for ‘that which is lost’.
I now can look forward, not back, and to be in Central Portugal at the reinvigoration of this diverse and beautiful region is excitement and reward enough.
Above, top clockwise: Fonte Fria, Serta, late 1800s farmhouse ready for renovation; countryside views towards the Serra da Estela; uograded style and materials in a 1600s house in the historic zone
Yue Gang Canton Restaurant
WHETHER YOU ’ RE A FAN OF CANTONESE CUISINE OR SOMEONE LOOKING TO TRY SOMETHING NEW, THIS RESTAURANT IS A MUST-VISIT IF YOU FIND YOURSELF IN ALMANCIL. DAVID CAMPUS OF AUSTA CAN ’ T GET ENOUGH OF THE TEXTURES AND FLAVOURS FOOD
THINK OF the Algarve and you might imagine fresh seafood, rustic Portuguese dishes, and chicken piri piri.
But for those who enjoy exploring different flavours, the region also offers a surprising variety of international cuisine, but only if you take the time to look beyond the typical ‘asian fusion’ spots that cater to tourists.
One such spot I discovered recently after hearing more than one murmur about it on the grapevine was Yue Gang Canton Restaurant in Almancil. After a quick gander at the menu online, I knew we were in for a treat, and what I discovered did not disappoint. In fact, it was an utterly delightful slap in the face feast of authentic Cantonese filling right on our doorstep. We loved it so much that it has now become a regular haunt for us of late when that MSG craving kicks in.
Our cumulative visits always begin with a slew of salty homemade prawn toast washed down with cold Tsing Tao. I can confidently say that without a doubt it’s worth a visit to Yue Gang just to try these. Unlike many other restaurants where prawn toast can be a little bit fake, frozen, overly greasy or bland, Yue Gang’s version is crispy and light, with a golden exterior that cracks satisfyingly with each bite.
We’re just getting started as crispy spring rolls and soft pork and prawn dumplings, both made fresh in-house, are placed on the table. These kinds of home and handmade dumplings and spring rolls are a rarity in many Chinese restaurants around the Algarve (most import them frozen), but Yue Gang’s commitment to authenticity is the reason we are here. The dumplings are delicately wrapped in rice paper, with a pork and prawn filling offering a balanced flavour. Each pillow feels like a piece of Cantonese heaven. Next, we dive into mapo tofu, a classic Cantonese dish with a rich
This is the real thing, proper pukkah Cantonese food, freshly cooked DECOR
Charming, traditional and comfortable. Round tables available PRICE
€20 to €25 a head for a truly great meal €
sauce and tender, silky tofu that melts in your mouth, cooked with a combination of fermented bean paste, chilli, and Sichuan peppercorns.
Yue Gang’s tofu absorbs the deep, umami-rich flavours of the sauce, while the chilli and peppercorns added just enough heat to make each bite more addictive than the last.
More plates arrive, including the BBQ char siu – a perfect balance of sweet and savoury. The meat has a beautiful charred exterior, thanks to the traditional preparation method, while the inside is succulent. Also on the table is the crispy roasted pork belly, which is served traditionally cold. The skin is crispy, with a satisfying crunch that contrasts with the tender meat underneath. The fat is rendered and gives a richness that is balanced by the slightly chilled temperature. It hits the spot.
No Wednesday night Chinese is complete without deep-fried ice cream, so of course we tuck in, already planning what to order next time. As I leaf through the menu, I spot an exclusive pre-order menu packed with traditional Cantonese dishes that must be pre-ordered three days in advance – a mouthwatering lineup of Cantonese classics like suckling pig, bai wei duck, beef brisket clay pot, and pine nut fish.
I immediately text my Whatsapp group of local foodies to organise the next feasting.
SPLASH OF PINK UNTIL
03.04
SPLASH OF PINK UNTIL 03.04
“
“I confess that there was quite a bit of talking to myself about the risk reward ratio and I became all to mindful of Walt Disney’s famous advice of “stop talking and start doing”. I like to have creative courage and be bold. - David Yarrow
I confess that there was quite a bit of talking to myself about the risk reward ratio and I became all to mindful of Walt Disney’s famous advice of “stop talking and start doing”. I like to have creative courage and be bold. - David Yarrow
PRAÇA DA REPÚBLICA 69-75
LOULÉ | PORTUGAL
QUINTA SHOPPING LOJA 6
ALMANCIL | PORTUGAL
PRAÇA DA REPÚBLICA 69-75 LOULÉ | PORTUGAL
QUINTA SHOPPING LOJA 6 ALMANCIL | PORTUGAL
TUE - FRI : 10h - 18h
SAT : 10h - 14h
MON - SAT : 11h - 17h
TUE - FRI : 10h - 18h
SAT : 10h - 14h
MON - SAT : 11h - 17h
“Bad Asses”, 2024, David Yarrow
“Bad Asses”, 2024, David Yarrow
NO MATTER WHERE YOU LIVE, IN THE ALGARVE OR ABROAD, SPRING IS THE TIME WHEN WE ALL BEGIN TO LONG FOR SUMMER HOLIDAYS, PAST AND PRESENT. SOME OF THOSE OF DAYS GONE BY ARE UNFORGETTABLE
The enduring charm of the
Whitewashed townhouse
Words: EMMA CAMPUS, DESIGN ESCAPES PORTUGAL
Photography: FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA
AS I START to spot the signs of the new season approaching, I inevitably daydream about the summers of my childhood in the Algarve, and times spent wallowing in life’s simple pleasures. Those days were long and golden, spent running around in a whirlwind of waves until our skin was salty and our hair filled with sand, and inhaling as many ice creams from plastic penguin heads as possible before dinner of piri piri chicken at a shabby beachshack decked with rickety chairs and olá umbrellas, all washed down with a gallon of Sumol for we youngsters, and cold Sagres beer for the grown-ups.
There was no air-con, no luxury sunbeds or Instagrammable infinity pools, swanky beach restaurants or live music – just a towel on the beach and the occasional vendor walking past selling warm, sugar-dusted bolas de Berlim from a wooden box. It was a slow and sleepy routine, the kind where the heat pressed down so heavily that the only thing to do was retreat to the shade under the bougainvillea and listen to the sound of cicadas chirping.
This was the Algarve on the cusp of its tourism era in the late 80s, before five-star resorts and Michelin-starred dining. A place where luxury wasn’t an extravagance but in the sheer beauty of the place itself – the endless blue of the Atlantic, the towering ochre cliffs, the way the air smelled of salt and suncream.
Hark back a couple of decades before even, to its very beginning in the late 60s and early 70s, and we can start to imagine the inception of this month’s design escape, Casa da Açoteia. Built in one of the region’s very first tourist resorts, Vale do Lobo, our hidden gem for March was one of the earliest houses in the area, designed for people who, like my family did a decade later, fell in love with the Algarve’s easy, sun-soaked way of life.
A new kind of holiday escape
Mention Vale do Lobo to anyone of the Millennial generation like myself and you’ll likely generate traumatic throwback memories to lost disposable cameras, too-short mini skirts, blue lagoons and all night discos (and that’s just the PG version). But to get to know its true heart and reality is to discover its inception in the 1960s and 70s as one of the Algarve’s first luxury resorts. But luxury meant something different back then – it wasn’t about opulence or excess. Instead, it was about space, nature, and quietude. People came here not for posh hotels but for whitewashed villas that blended into the landscape, and wide beaches where you could walk for miles or splash about without a care.
When Casa da Açoteia was first built, Vale do Lobo was still relatively untouched. The resort was just beginning to take shape, and, while there were a few golf courses and some early developments, it still had the feel of a hidden gem. Houses were designed with simplicity in mind in the classic Moorish style – white walls to reflect the heat, small windows and wooden shutters to keep interiors cool, and, like many homes of its era, an açoteia, a rooftop terrace unique to the Algarve, traditionally used for drying fruit or hanging clothes to air. But here, in these holiday homes, it became something else: a place to gather at the end of the day, to sit under the stars with a glass of vinho verde, to watch the world go by or where families could gather in the evenings to watch the sun sink into the Atlantic.
This was a time when holidays here were stripped back to the essentials: days on the beach, lunches of fresh seafood in unpretentious cafés, and warm nights spent outside, where the only entertainment was conversation, the distant sound of the rhythmic crashing of the waves. Casa da Açoteia was a home built for exactly this kind of living.
A thoughtful restoration: honoring the past, embracing the present Fast forward to 2022 and Casa da Açoteia had been standing for nearly half a century. The world had changed, and so had the Algarve. Vale do Lobo
was now a sought-after holiday destination, home to world-class golf courses, five-star resorts, and high-end dining experiences. And yet, the heart of the Algarve – the simplicity, the beauty, the feeling of slowing down – still remained.
When Nuno Nascimento Arquitectos was approached by Lisboeta and lawyer Andrea Campos to take on the task of renovating this untouched house, they didn’t want to erase its past. Instead, together they wanted to preserve its soul while updating it for modern living.
The renovation embraced the concept of ‘barefoot luxury’, stripping away anything unnecessary while emphasizing natural materials and clean, open spaces – walls, ceilings, and floors are unified in a simple white palette, creating a bright, airy space that feels calming and timeless. Natural wood is introduced through handcrafted doors, cabinets, and furniture, adding warmth and texture.
The layout of the house remains largely unchanged, respecting its original design, and the ground floor still holds the social spaces—a cosy living room, a dining area, and a small but perfectly designed kitchen – along with a guest bedroom suite. Upstairs, two more bedroom suites offered peaceful retreats, with the master bedroom keeping its signature arched window, a subtle nod to the home’s 1970s origins.
And then, of course, there’s the central feature, the açoteia that gives the house its name. In the renovation, it was transformed into a relaxation space, complete with a small plunge pool, completely unique to this little cluster of retro townhouses and panoramic views of the surrounding rooftops and distant ocean. It’s the perfect blend of old and new, of past and present.
A timeless escape in a changing Algarve Today, this part of the Algarve is a very different place from the one I remember from my childhood. The simple beach huts where we used to eat grilled fish have been replaced by stylish restaurants serving gourmet seafood platters. The once-sleepy fishing villages have been discovered by travellers from all over the world, and luxury resorts now line the coastline.
And yet, despite all these changes, Casa da Açoteia remains a place where you can experience a holiday resort plucked straight out of a faded postcard – where life slows down, where the days stretch out endlessly under the sun, and where the best memories are made in the simplest of moments.
It’s a house that isn’t just about beautiful architecture or thoughtful design. It’s about a feeling – a feeling of warmth, nostalgia, and connection to a place that, despite all the years and all the changes, still feels like home.
For me, and for anyone who has ever fallen in love with the Algarve, Casa da Açoteia is more than just a holiday home. It’s a reminder of the joy of simple living, of warm summer nights under bougainvilleascented skies, and of a time when all you needed for a perfect day was a beach, a towel, and an ice cream eaten out of a plastic penguin.
Fifty years ago, it was one of the early houses in what was developing as Vale do Lobo, small and perfectly formed for a holiday getaway. Today, Casa da Açoteia retains its original charm, the interiors kept simple, the decor underplayed, free of colour and statement pieces. Here, natural elements suit the setting perfectly
WINE AND WOMEN
TODAY, THE PORTUGUESE WINE SCENE IS GRACED BY MANY GIFTED WOMEN WHO ARE CREATING HIGH-QUALITY WINES AND REVOLUTIONIZING TRADITIONAL PRACTICES; THEY ARE INVOLVED IN EVERY STEP OF THE WINEMAKING PROCESS, FROM VINEYARD MANAGEMENT TO MARKETING, ENSURING THAT THEIR PHILOSOPHIES COME THROUGH IN EACH BOTTLE. TIME TO MEET THE MAKERS...
BACALHÔA, SETÚBAL
born in Ribatejo but spent more than half of her life with Sado river nearby. In charge of wines from the Setúbal Peninsula, she received the award ‘Generous Winemaker of the Year’ in 2013
QUINTA DA ALORNA, TEJO
Martta Reis Simões is a winemaker from the USA. As the granddaughter of farmers, she had contact with the vineyard and participated in the harvest every year. So wine was naturally her chosen field. In 2003, Martta decided to join Quinta da Alorna to contribute to the development of their wines.
This Catarina has a similar style to a white Burgundy. The wine is produced with the two main Portuguese white grape varieties
Fernão Pires and Arinto, and the most famous white variety in the
subtle sensations of toasted wood. garrafeirazevedo.pt/ product/5601237001102/
My suggestion: Marquesa de Alorna Grande Reserva Tinto
This great aromatic red wine presents a good integration of wild fruit aromas such as blackberry and raspberry with a fragrant touch suggesting equally wildflowers.
The notes of spices, chocolate and toasted hints of new wood are also combined in it. continente.pt/produto/ marquesa-de-alornagrande-reserva-doc-tejovinho-tinto-marquesa-dealorna-5422930.html
MARTTA REIS SIMÕES
Today’s wine makers are decidedly more adventurous than the previous generation, and women makers in particular have developed their own sense of style
MARTA SOARES
CASAL FIGUEIRA, LISBOA
Marta Soares is an artist and teacher and also the woman behind Casal Figueira Wines, a pioneering bio-dynamic winemaking project that was started over 20 years ago by her husband, António Carvalho. Fo the past 14 years, since her husband passed away, Marta has been making wine on her own. The winery, although small in production, has become a true cult in Portugal. But the majority of their wines, in fact 99%, are sold abroad.
My suggestion:
Antonio Branco 2020, Casal Figueira
Undoubtedly one of most characterful white wines produced in Portugal, it is unique in every way. The Vital grape is still found in a handful of small parcels just above Lisbon on the northern slopes of the Serra do Montejunto. The aromas and palate provide a bright lemon punch with crushed dried herbs, flint, oyster shell, and a subtle saline note. garrafeiragenuina.pt/ en/white-wines/casalfigueira-antonio-2020
FILIPA PATO & WILLIAM WOUTERS, BAIRRADA
Filipa grew up immersed in her family’s wines, vineyards, and culture, influenced by the terroirdriven wines of the ‘Baga rebel’, one of Portugal’s legendary winemakers. As the years have passed, she has emerged from the shadow of her father, the famous Luís Pato, and charted her own path, confident and original. Her passion for the traditional indigenous grape varieties of Bairrada led her to start her own project in 2001. In 2020 she was elected ‘Winemaker of the Year’ by Revista de Vinhos.
My suggestion:
Nossa Calcário Red 2021
Bright violet-coloured wine with fresh aromas of red fruits and wild scrubland, overlaid with a rocky, mineral character, and subtle toasted notes on the nose. Very elegant on the palate. Well structured as much by freshness as by tannin. Long, juicy finish with red fruit flavors. portugalvineyards. com/en/beiras/6247filipa-pato-nossared-2021-5600000000153. html
SUSANA ESTEBAN VINHOS, ALENTEJO
Susana Esteban was born in Spain but began her career as a winemaker in the Douro. Since the 2007 harvest, she has worked as a consultant for different producers in the Alentejo. During this journey, her work has been recognised both nationally and internationally. In 2012, she was awarded the title of ‘Winemaker of the Year’ by Revista de Vinhos. At the end of 2009, Susana Esteban took the decision to start making wines with a different character from traditional Alentejo.
My suggestion:
Aventura Red 2022
In this violet-red coloured wine, the freshness is evident from the very first moment. Fruity and elegant aromas with a lovely floral hint on the nose. On the palate, firm tannins and a refreshing acidity restrain the seductive and silky finish. A wine of pure elegance with good ageing potential. portugalvineyards.com/en/ alentejo/7396-aventurared-2022-5600822961159. html
FILIPA PATO
SUSANA ESTEBAN
CLOUD TALK
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
THE IMAGES OF CLOUDS CONTINUE TO INSPIRE AND ENTHUSE ARTISTS FROM NUMEROUS DISCIPLINES. HOWEVER, THEIR EVER-CHANGING NATURE AND TRANSIENT EXISTENCE MAKE THEM PARTICULARLY DIFFICULT TO REPLICATE IN PAINTINGS GALERIA CÔRTE-REAL is signposted from Boliqueime, Ferreiras and Paderne. OPEN: Thursday to Sunday, 11h30–16h30 The new gallery is located in Olhão’s Casa Amor. OPEN: Thursday to Saturday, 10h00–14h00 961 528 679 / corterealarte.com
DAVID SMITH is one of Britain’s leading landscape artists and his striking cloudscapes are currently being displayed by Galeria Côrte-Real at two venues in the Algarve. David is an expert in a technique known as ‘skying’, a term invented by John Constable. Being the source of light and shade in nature, ‘skying’ refers to the methodical study of the sky and all forms of cloud formations.
Constable was very committed to this method. It is estimated that between 1821 and 1822 he painted at least 100 sky studies. On the back of many of these he inscribed his observations: “5th September 1822. 10 o’clock. Morning, looking South East, very brisk wind at West. Very bright and fresh grey clouds running very fast about half way in the sky.”
These small paintings were produced in preparation for his monumental landscapes for which he has become so famous. In a similar way, for inclusion in larger paintings, Turner worked in a sketchbook drawing clouds while lying on his back.
Like both of these grand masters, David Smith is committed to the outdoors and painting ‘en plein air’. As a result, the fleeting energy of each cloud is captured at a particular moment in time.
Quite unlike the American artist Georgia O’Keefe, who is renowned for her series Sky Above Clouds. Her clouds are painted as abstract images seen from an aeroplane window. David is a purist and pictures them exactly as they appear. When looking at his paintings it is possible to judge their direction of travel, distance, scale and the atmospheric conditions in the surrounding air. This is achieved by careful observation and handling the paint in a free and expressive manner, using both brush and palette knife. Generating mood is the main aim of David’s work. “It is the essence of all great artistic, literary and musical masterpieces,” he says. He refers to the English painter and poet William Blake and his depictions of clouds. “They invariably stir volatile emotions that are reflective of his turbulent mental state. Either as the
about the artist
What is your absolute favourite subject matter?
Coastal scenes and clouds are my absolute first choice.
Do you search it out, research etc, or does it just happen?
If plein air, I’ll take what I get on the day. However, if I am working in thestudio, I’ll have a rough idea of what I want, but happy to let the painting evolve and take its own course.
written word or when portrayed in a painting, his clouds are masterworks.”
Creating a similar mood, in Emily Dickinson’s poem entitled The Sky is low – the Clouds are mean, she personifies aspects of the sky. Cloudbursts and thunderstorms are imbued with human qualities expressing emotions and changing mental states. Shelley identifies clouds as “the offspring of Earth and Water, nurtured by the Sky. Stating its immortality, the cloud tells us, I change but I cannot die.” Fernando Pessoa, the celebrated Portuguese poet, likens the passage of his dreams to the clouds, “Como nuvens pelo céu, Passam os sonhos por mim” (like clouds across the sky, dreams pass by me). And Wordsworth’s “I wandered lonely as a cloud” is probably the best-known opening line of any poem in the English language.
A single cloud lent itself to be included in Gustav Holst’s orchestral suite, The Planets. Mercury, The Winged Messenger, rises and sinks on a cloud that takes him on a journey above the Himalayas. Represented by a high pitched harp, flute, and glockenspiel, the image is flawless as Mercury carries a message of love on an intrepid journey.
Motivated by all aspects of the natural world, David’s acclaimed paintings have been widely exhibited, notably during 2020 when examples were displayed by the Royal Society of Marine Artists and the Royal Institute of Oil Painters. His latest paintings can be seen at Côrte-Real’s new gallery in Olhão’s boutique hotel, Casa Amor. Also at Galeria Côrte Real in Paderne.
What makes a sea view especially inviting for you?
My needs are very simple – for me two things of are real importance... good light and big clouds.
Do you ever photograph your chosen subject matter/vistas and paint from those collected images?
I never paint from photos. I only use photographs for inspiration and composition purposes.
Colour – is blue your favourite, and why?
Blue is my favourite. It always reminds me of my happy place. the coast.
Is there a particular artist whose work you truly admire?
It would be the late Spanish artist Joaquín Sorolla. Such wonderful light in his works.
Your preferred medium? It has to be oils.
HIGHLY ADDICTIVE
ALGARVE ADDICTS IS THE RESULT OF HARD WORK, AN ABUNDANCE OF ENTHUSIASM, UNBOUNDING ENERGY, DETERMINATION AND NEVERENDING CURIOSITY. TOGETHER THOSE ATTRIBUTES HAVE LED TO A VENTURE THAT GROWS BY THE DAY, AND ATTRACTS AUDIENCES FROM ACROSS THE WORLD LOOKING TO FORM THEIR NEW CHAPTER HERE IN PORTUGAL
Words: NICK ROBINSON
THE BEST things often happen organically –sometimes after a ton of struggle and adversity. I had been toying with the idea of starting an online business since 2014, wanting to base it around content creation. That’s when I launched a blog called Outdoors in Portugal.
Imagine a big, outdoorsy guy in khaki green, arms spread wide, announcing in a booming voice: “Outdoors in Poooortugal!” – except it wasn’t anything that dramatic. It was just a blog. But I poured my heart into it – hiking up mountains, getting lost on trails, cycling around massive lakes. It was exhausting but exhilarating.
Then one morning, I woke up to find my beautiful, glossy website – a labour of love, sweat, and endless hours – had been hacked and turned into a sweaty mess of porn. I was gobsmacked. Defeated. I just couldn’t bring myself to carry on. So, I moved on to other things for a few years. But the itch to create content never really went away.
The birth of Algarve Addicts
I’ve always felt a deep connection to the Algarve – so much so that I might as well have been addicted to it. Every time I flew ‘home’ to my birthplace in South Africa, I’d return to the Algarve with an overwhelming sense of relief. It felt like home. The food, the sunrises, the rolling hills – everything about it just felt right.
So, when I decided to start a new project, I named it Algarve Addicts. My plan? A podcast series that would bring together a community of fellow Algarve lovers. Over the course of 47 episodes, I interviewed fascinating people – owners of swanky boat shops, long-distance trail runners, the president of the Algarve Tourism Association, and many of my own incredible friends.
But something wasn’t clicking. It wasn’t happening.
I emailed my small (but real) audience and told them exactly that. I asked: “Is there even a business here?” Three people responded with solid insights. And then, a friend gave me a gamechanging piece of advice: “Make a video called Where to Live in the
Algarve. Travel from west to east, share insights about each town, and target Americans wanting to relocate to Portugal.” So, I did.
It was my first real YouTube video – not just another audio podcast. I didn’t expect much. I’d made great videos before, and no one had watched them. What I didn’t realise at the time was that success wasn’t just about making good content – it was about making the right content for the right audience. Where to Live in the Algarve was exactly what people wanted. And that’s when everything changed.
Now, as we approach 30,000 subscribers, I look back at this community we’ve built with nothing but gratitude. The people who have connected through my videos are incredible. Many of them have become friends. It’s amazing to think that something that started with me sweating away in my garage – planning, filming, editing, publishing – would turn into something this big.
One day, I opened my inbox to find an email from a guy in Manhattan asking for a quick video call to get some info about
the Algarve. I told him I was too busy editing and didn’t have time. He responded, “What if I pay you US$100 for 45 minutes?”
I thought about it for a second. “Sure, I can do that.” And that call led to more calls. Suddenly, I was an online coach. And the money started rolling in.
More services are born
Not long after, a couple from Virginia asked if I could show them around the Algarve for a day. They offered US$100. I declined. I was already making that per hour with video calls, and a full-day tour wasn’t worth it. They came back with a new offer: US$400 for the day. I agreed.
That was the start of some of the best days I’ve had in the Algarve – touring audience members around, sharing my love for the region, and helping them envision a new life here.
But as demand grew, I found myself stretched too thin. I was juggling video calls, in-person tours, and filming/editing my YouTube content. On top of that, people were constantly asking for help with visas, real estate, and long-term rentals. I was referring them to trusted friends, but even that was eating up too much time.
A friend introduced me to a real estate agent, and we worked together for a while, but I quickly realised I didn’t have the bandwidth to follow up on deals. These deals were worth serious money, so I persuaded that same friend to go into business with me and handle the commercial side of things. At first, he wasn’t sure. He had a well-paying job managing a major property development. It took some convincing, but eventually, he was in. And that’s when things really started to take off.
We opened our own fully-licensed real estate agency. I had already set up an officially licensed tourguiding service, with a dedicated guide handling the day tours. The demand from our YouTube channel was massive, and we needed more hands on deck. My business partner’s name? Also Nick.
This led to some hilarious moments – especially when we had calls with clients also named Nick. Imagine a Zoom call with Nick, Nick, and Nick trying to figure out who’s talking to whom!
A few months in, we hit another bottleneck. Helping clients find long-term rentals was taking up too much time. Fortunately, Nick had been working on bringing in his former colleague, Duarte. When Duarte joined, everything leveled up. Suddenly, we could properly assist our viewers – helping them find rentals, buy homes, secure visas, and navigate the crazy adventure of moving to Portugal.
So many people have thanked me for the videos I’ve made on every single town in the Algarve. Sometimes, people even stop me in the street and ask, “Are you that Nick from YouTube?” Then they tell me how much the videos have helped them – and
Portugal Unlocked will produce 40-50 videos covering the entire mainland –split into five key regions: Algarve, Alentejo, Lisbon, Central Portugal, and Northern Portugal.
in some cases, how they wouldn’t have moved to the Algarve without them. It’s an incredible feeling.
Right now, my YouTube channel features a 36-video playlist covering nearly every town and city in the Algarve. It’s an invaluable resource for people unfamiliar with the area and considering a move here. Even longtime expats discover new places through my videos.
The biggest surprise? Some Portuguese viewers have told me they’ve learned things about their own country from my content. That, to me, is the ultimate compliment.
Moving forward: Portugal Unlocked
This year, 2025, is shaping up to be our most exciting year yet. While we’ll continue making weekly videos about the Algarve and relocation, we’re expanding our content to cover the rest of Portugal.
We’re calling this project Portugal Unlocked.
The goal? To produce 40-50 videos covering the entire mainland – split into five key regions: Algarve, Alentejo, Lisbon and surrounds, Central Portugal, and Northern Portugal.
Each month, I’ll spend about four days on the road, filming in different locations. Sometimes, Nick will join me. Other times, I’ll go solo. And we’re always looking for locals to show us around – so if you live in a great spot and want to be part of this journey, reach out!
We’ve already completed two Portugal Unlocked trips. The first was just before Christmas, when we travelled to Coimbra to visit a ceramic tile factory. This trip was inspired by an exclusive property development we’re working with in Vilamoura. A designer mentioned she needed the most expensive tiles in Portugal – and we had to see them for ourselves.
That trip sparked something. On the way back, we stopped in Nazaré and Sintra just for fun. And just like that, Portugal Unlocked was born. As we continue to explore further north, our services will naturally expand to Lisbon, Porto, and Central Portugal. So many foreigners need help all over the country!
The challenge with all three of us being so creative is that we’re constantly exploring new opportunities and business ideas. One of our most exciting projects in the works is a 3,000-square-metre piece of land. Our vision is to build an office while also creating a collaborative workspace for small, complementary businesses to operate alongside us. In addition, we’re planning a gym, a café, and a community space where we can host weekly events and fun activities for our clients.
Picture this: pop-up dinners under the summer stars, live music and singing nights, and casual get-togethers – all designed to strengthen our growing community of Algarve Addicts!
Follow along on our adventures on YouTube and our website. I just got back from an epic trip through Évora, Serra da Estrela, Bragança, and Lisbon, and now I’m ready to edit.
Good times ahead!
Fish and seafood soup in puff pastry
HENRIQUE LEIS IS ONE OF THE ALGARVE ’ S TRULY OUTSTANDING RESTAURANTS, LEADING THE WAY SINCE 1993 AND COLLECTING COUNTLESS AWARDS OVER THE DECADES. QUALITY HERE IS A PRIORITY, COUPLED WITH CREATIVE INGENUITY AND AN ADVENTUROUS APPROACH THAT BRING TOGETHER INTERNATIONAL CUISINE WITH FRENCH TECHNIQUES AND THE VERY BEST OF LOCAL INGREDIENTS. THIS RECIPE FROM CHEF HENRIQUE LEIS IS A SHEER DELIGHT.
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS
300g monkfish fillet
300g sea bass fillet
8 medium sized shrimps
8 langoustines
30g butter
250g puff pastry
1 egg yolk
Salt and pepper
For the Julienne vegetables
50g carrots
50g leek
1 small turnip
50g mushrooms
25g butter
3tbsp port wine
½tsp of minced tarragon
For the sauce
1l shrimp stock
½l cream
40ml of brandy
To serve 4 individual tureens
Pre heat the oven to 180ºC
TOTAL TIME 35 MINUTES
METHOD
1 Preparing the fish and seafood:
Cut the fish fillets into identically-sized pieces and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Do the same with the langoustine and shrimps. Melt the butter in a frying pan, add the fish and cook for just 30 seconds. Remove from the heat.
2. Preparing the Julienne vegetables:
Cut the vegetables in long thin ‘julienne strips’. Warm the butter in a pan and sweat the vegetables (do not fry them) in the following order: carrots, mushrooms, then leek and turnip together. Add salt, pepper, port wine and tarragon. Set on one side.
3. Preparing the sauce:
In a pan, mix shrimp stock with brandy and cream. Heat it on a gentle light, bring to a simmer, and reduce to half.
4. Preparing the cover of the pastry:
Unfold a thin sheet of puff pastry, cut circles and brush with beaten egg white and a splash of water. Pop the pastry in the fridge.
5. Preparing the soup:
In each tureen, put a ladle of sauce, fish fillets, seafood and vegetables. Brush the edge of each tureen with egg yolk, then cover each with a pastry circle. Bake for 20 minutes.
PELVIC FLOOR HEALTH
KEEPING YOURSELF IN GREAT CONDITION MEANS ENSURING YOUR MUSCLES ARE DOING THE BEST JOB POSSIBLE IN TERMS OF BOTH BODILY STRENGTH AND CONTROL
Words: MANUELA DE OLIVEIRA
PELVIC FLOOR HEALTH is an essential yet often overlooked aspect of women’s well-being. The pelvic floor consists of a group of muscles that provide support to key organs like the bladder, uterus, and rectum. These muscles play a critical role in our ability to control bodily functions, maintain good posture, and even enhance sexual health. However, when the pelvic floor muscles weaken, they can cause a variety of issues, including urinary incontinence.
The good news is that pelvic floor health can be restored and strengthened, and I am here to help. With modern solutions like a pelvic floor paddle, it’s now easier than ever to regain strength and confidence. Let’s explore how pelvic floor health impacts us and what we can do to take control.
THE IMPACT OF A WEAK PELVIC FLOOR
A weak pelvic floor can occur for various reasons, including pregnancy, childbirth, menopause, or simply the natural ageing process. While the condition is incredibly common, many women feel uncomfortable discussing it openly. One of the most noticeable and frustrating symptoms is urinary incontinence – leaking urine when laughing, sneezing, exercising, or even lifting something heavy.
For many women, this leads to feelings of embarrassment or shame. They might avoid social
Pelvic floor health is just as important as any other aspect of our physical and mental well-being
situations or physical activities they once loved, worrying about the potential for an accident. But the truth is, this condition is nothing to be ashamed of, and it’s important to know that you are not alone. Millions of women experience these symptoms, and there are effective ways to manage and improve them.
WHY STRENGTHENING THE PELVIC FLOOR IS SO IMPORTANT
Addressing pelvic floor weakness is about much more than preventing leaks. A healthy pelvic floor can enhance your overall wellbeing in several ways:
1. Improved bladder and bowel control
Strengthening the pelvic floor helps reduce or eliminate urinary incontinence and supports better bowel control.
2. Enhanced core stability
The pelvic floor works in conjunction with your abdominal and back muscles to provide core stability, which is essential for good posture and balance.
3. Better sexual health
A strong pelvic floor can lead to more satisfying sexual experiences by improving muscle tone and sensitivity.
4. Postpartum and menopausal support
For new mothers, rebuilding pelvic floor strength is crucial after childbirth. Similarly, as estrogen levels decline during menopause, maintaining pelvic floor health can counteract the effects of ageing on these muscles.
HOW YOU CAN STRENGTHEN YOUR PELVIC FLOOR
The most well-known method for strengthening the pelvic floor is through targeted exercises like Kegels. These involve consciously contracting and releasing the pelvic floor muscles, similar to the motion of stopping urine midstream. While effective, many women struggle to identify and properly engage these muscles on their own.
This is where technology can make a big difference.
THE PELVIC FLOOR PADDLE: A MODERN SOLUTION
To help women to effectively strengthen their pelvic floor, I offer sessions with a pelvic floor paddle. This innovative paddle uses electromagnetic stimulation to activate the pelvic floor muscles without requiring any effort on your part. Each session delivers thousands of muscle contractions in just a short period, making it far more efficient than traditional exercises alone.
Many women find that the pelvic floor paddle is a comfortable and non-invasive way to improve muscle tone, reduce incontinence, and regain confidence. It’s an excellent option for women who are unsure where to start or who want faster, more noticeable results.
As part of my services, I offer personalised pelvic floor paddle sessions to help women reclaim control over their health and lives. Whether you’re dealing with postpartum recovery, menopausal changes, or want to prevent future issues, this treatment is tailored to meet your unique needs.
BREAKING THE SILENCE AROUND PELVIC FLOOR HEALTH
It’s time to normalise conversations about pelvic floor health. Far too often, women feel they need to suffer in silence, believing these issues are just “part of getting older” or something they have to endure after childbirth. But this couldn’t be further from the truth.
Pelvic floor health is just as important as any other aspect of our physical and mental well-being, and there are effective solutions available. Whether you choose to try traditional exercises, consult a specialist, or explore treatments like the pelvic floor paddle, taking action is the first step to improvement.
TAKE THE FIRST STEP TOWARD A STRONGER YOU!
If you’re experiencing symptoms of a weak pelvic floor –whether it’s occasional leaking, a sense of heaviness, or difficulty with bladder control – don’t ignore them. These are signs that your body needs attention, and there’s so much we can do to help.
With my pelvic floor paddle sessions, you can strengthen your pelvic floor muscles in a safe, efficient, and noninvasive way. You’ll not only see improvements in bladder control but also experience better posture, core strength, and overall confidence.
Magic Beauty
Rua do Comercio 28
8315-15 Almancil
T: 927 599 283 / W: magicbeauty.info
Handcrafted in wood and 24k gold leaf, this Aposentis’ food station promotes better Pet digestion and comfort while eating.
Shop online www.aposentis.com
Bespoke options such as bowls enriched in gold are available.
HIGHLAND T ALGARVE
YOU HAVE THE ALGARVE AND THEN YOU HAVE... THE OTHER ALGARVE.
ENTER VICEROY AT OMBRIA ALGARVE, A BRAND NEW VILLAGE-LIKE RESORT THAT EMBRACES THE LOCAL TRADITIONS
Words: SANDRA GATO
HE ALGARVE will always be on top of the list when the aim is to spend some days enjoying good weather by the ocean. Chosen last November by The World Travel Awards as Best Beach Destination in the world for the third time, Portugal’s most southern region is proving to be worthy of many other kinds of awards. Although the beach and sun Algarve will never go out of style, it is time to seriously consider the other Algarve: the part of the region a bit more distant from the sea (and the crowds) that offers so many wonders.
Viceroy at Ombria Algarve opened its doors in October and is already proving a point: the ‘Highland Algarve’ is as attractive as the more popular touristic one.
The Algarve itself is divided into three distinctly different regions: sea, mountain and ‘barrocal’. For the latter, (think fruit trees and vegetable farming that thrives in a dry climate). It is precisely in a barrocal setting, not far from the city of Loulé, on the top of a hill, that Viceroy at Ombria was built in the style of a traditional Algarvean village – white villas, small streets with fountains in the middle, a central café, a main tower and an ‘eira’, a threshing floor that was used by the generations who previously lived in the area.
The young member of staff who was showing us around was born and raised locally and said that when he told his grandmother about the hotel, she remembered going to the ‘eira’ with her family and was surprised that the hotel owners kept it.
But it is exactly this kind of proximity with the land and its people and traditions that the owners wanted for the project.
This is five-star all the way, with residences, suites and hotel rooms that put comfort, quiet and luxury first. And there are many activites, apart from golf, that will make your stay at Viceroy Ombria even more memorable
The vision
Bought more than 20 years ago by Pontos Group, a Finnish real estate group, the plan was to build something that matched the environment without disturbing it in any way.
Mission accomplished. From afar, what you see when approaching Ombria is a set of white houses on the top of a hill surrounded by lush greenery. Sustainability is taken very seriously here. There is a whole team dedicated to the preservation of wildlife, making sure that every little creature is protected. When driving in a buggy around the golf course –18 holes, designed by Jorge Santana da Silva – we noticed a little wood house in one of the trees and asked if it was for the birds. “No”, our guide replied, “It is for the bats,” a resident species, as we learned.
In total, Ombria is a 150-hectare site with 360-degree views over the barrocal landscape. The beach is 20 kilometres away but there is so many other natural wonders to enjoy here! Besides the ones inside the property, the golf course has a unique design that allows amazing visual perspectives; even if you are not a player, ask for a buggy and go investigate what’s around.
Highly-recommended is the nearby Fonte da Benémola trail, a walk of around five kilometres next to a stream that is as relaxing and beautiful as it sounds. Also not far away is Alte, an enchanting village known for its waterfalls, river beach, and arts and crafts shops. And then, of course, there is Loulé with its bustling markets, art galleries, workshops and shopping opportunities.
Back in the Viceroy at Ombria, a visit to the orchard is not to be missed – it’s an opportunity to discover the local produce and understand the work done by the hotel’s team to serve up special treats.
So many choices
In total, the Viceroy has 141 rooms, each with a special personality and distinct setting. There are quiet rooms facing the green of the golf course, with a private terrace – the perfect place to lay back and relax in the sunshine, with a book and a glass of wine. Others overlooking the little walking streets of the Ombria village that is Viceroy. Or you can spend time by the resort’s beautiful pools. And you have to visit the resort’s store where you’ll find local products, including a superb olive oil from the olive grove made with the producers from Monterosa.
WATG was responsible for architecture and landscape, while a firm of local architects, Promontorio, made it happen and took care of the construction work. Interior Design is signed by Wimberly Interiors who chose the finest materials and textiles.
The end result is a magical resort, a five-star destination hotel with the Viceroy signature. This is the only one in Portugal so far, but Viceroy Hotels & Resorts manages hotels and residences in Mexico, the US and Serbia... as hospitality experts make sure its high standards are followed each step of the way. And high standards is precisely what you get in each of the resort’s individual areas. Again, the main idea
is to make us feel like we are visiting a traditional village in the interior of the Algarve where, depending on your mood, you can take your pick of six different restaurants.
Eating treats
Breakfast is served in the family-oriented Ombria Kitchen. There’s a great atmosphere, relaxed and comfortable, with natural light coming through the glass walls; the day starts with eggs cooked to order, local breads, and jams made from fruit produced in Ombria. Come back for an informal meal at any time throughout the day – the big wood oven produces the most delicious pizzas.
Outside, by the lavish main pool, Salpico is the bar ready to serve all kinds of drinks and snacks, while Casa & Fora, located in the clubhouse, is the ideal spot to watch sport events on the big TVs, while enjoying the special of the day, and a good selection of craft beers. For those who are more into wine, Bellvino is the place to go. There, the hotel’s sommelier leads private tastings that also include local cheese and charcuterie.
There is no proper Portuguese village without a Café Central, the place where everyone gathers around a coffee and a pastel de nata to talk politics or football and gossip about the neighbours. In Viceroy’s Café Central you can do all that and also taste speciality coffee, sandwiches, pies or cakes.
Finally, for a real taste of the great talent of executive chef Pedro Pinto, Viceroy guests are enjoying dinner at Solalua. You can start with a creative cocktail – or go for a mixology class (great fun and you get to drink the cocktail you just made in the end, of course) – and then let yourself be surprised by a sequence of dishes where emotion is a main ingredient.
Spending time
Of the many activities that can be booked – pottery, candle making, horse riding with picnic, ‘sheperd for a day’ – the Spa by Viceroy will be mandatory. With many different treatments (Ignae is the Portuguese brand chosen for facials and body massages) and therapies available, it’s the wellness centre (opened to non guests, too) that this part of the Algarve needs and deserves.
ESPAÇO LUZITANO FARO WALKING STREETS
Beautiful hand crafted ceramics to decorate your home. Ask about our wedding list service.
Espaço Luzitano
Rua Ivens 5, Faro
Rua Vasco da Gama 28, Faro Insta; espacoluzitano Espaço-Luzitano
Bali, Indonesia
MORE FAVE PLACES
LAST ISSUE WE GATHERED TOGETHER FAVOURITES – PLACES, OBJECTS, WHATEVERS –FROM A HANDFUL OF ALGARVE DWELLERS. AND NOW WE HAVE MORE, AND THAT LEAVES THE DOOR OPEN FOR AN ONGOING SERIES!
If you’re exploring the charming town of Loulé, make sure to step off the beaten path and uncover a hidden gem – the Ermida de Nossa Senhora da Conceição, a stunning little chapel nestled right next to our gallery, In The Pink. This serene and beautifully-preserved space is a secret hiding in plain sight, offering a glimpse into the town’s rich history and artistry.
Dating back to the mid-17th century, the chapel was believed to have been built just outside the medieval city walls, near one of its old gates. Step inside and you’ll be captivated by its ornate azulejo
tilework, an exquisite altarpiece, and Rocaille-style details with intricate Latin inscriptions. Every corner tells a story, and the warm, welcoming ladies who take care of the chapel are always happy to share fascinating insights about its historic and religious significance. Beyond its artistic beauty, the chapel offers something truly special – a peaceful retreat from the Algarve heat. On Loulé’s sundrenched days, this cool and quiet sanctuary is the perfect place to pause, reflect, and escape the town’s lively buzz for a moment of tranquility.
Algarve snow
Every year we wait with bated breath for the arrival of the region’s snow, or at least its floral counterpart in the form of almond blossom. A magical moment that daubs the fields with blotches of white and dusty pink, while charging the air with an unmistakable aroma.
This natural spectacle, seemingly so early in the calendar, reminds us that spring is on the way, while treating us to a beautiful sight. But this year, its arrival seemed a little delayed for my liking, and I was beginning to get worried – would the trees blossom at all?
After 25 winters experiencing this soul-enriching event, I’ve stored up quite a catalogue of ‘blossom data’. In the past, some trees have dared to show their first flowers as early as late November, making it all the more intriguing to see the burst of blossom only truly begin in February this year. Some trees even dodged their floral tribute to produce their annual foliage instead, and perhaps skip a year’s worth of harvest.
Whenever these stunning little flowers bloom, with their white petals and yellow-pinkish hearts, my fingers get itchy, my phone starts focusing, and click, click, click, yet more data for my catalogue. As I wander the countryside, my furry companion by my side, photo ops proliferate, just as the blossom, until its time passes, and the whims of the wind blow the petals up into the air and the Algarve’s snow begins to settle.
HILDEGARD
QUARTEIRA
After growing up in cosmopolitan Rio de Janeiro and spending four years in London, another busy place, I found myself settling down in bucolic Cornwall. A fantastic place to raise children and, on a (very rare) sunny day, its beauty is hard to beat. Fast forward 27 years and two daughters who had flown the nest, I was keen to escape the weather. Portugal had a double attraction: One, I speak the language (albeit the colonial version) and two, it’s a hop, skip and a jump from the UK.
More by chance than by design, I found myself living in Quarteira. Now, if you have ever been to any village in Cornwall, you’ll understand the attraction of Quarteira. The whole world seems to be here. And in order
You go to the beach, turn your chair towards the sea and marvel at the sunset with the best white wine sangria
Adriana Bringuenti
to cater to the whole world, you find every conceivable shop. Hardly any chain stores, which makes you feel better about spending your money. Plus restaurants and cafés galore. You really don’t need to go anywhere else, especially to the Marina –let the tourists pay those prices for a bica! I didn’t find a place to live there, but I’m not far. I can walk/cycle to the market on Wednesdays, so perfect!
Summers are mad, so we hibernate. Any other time, you go to the beach, turn your chair towards the sea and marvel at the sunset with the best white wine sangria around.
Another plus? I’ve been living here long enough to start bumping into friends while walking the promenade. I almost feel like a local.
TAMARA COMOLI
Armona Island I check the tide situation and love to go when the tide is low so I can walk the beautiful white sand all the way out. The sensation is incredible and as water warms up fast, one can enjoy an almost Maldives feel in turquoise water. After my swim, I have a casual and delicious lunch at Camaleão Beach bar, where Nini the owner has really created a little paradise.
The Magic Light of Olhão Last year I visited the Mark Rothko exhibition in the Louis Vuitton Museum in Paris. I am intrigued by his massive canvases, often covered entirely with blocks of colour. When light hits his painted works, the viewer experiences a completely different aspect of the painting. A quote by Rothko posted on the wall of the entrance said: “I’m not interested in colour. It’s light I’m after.”
Reading this, I was transported to my home town, Olhão. Every time I walk on the boulevard, I am struck by the mesmerizing light. Especially at the end of the day, around an hour before sunset, you can see the iridescent, warm, open, magical light that caresses the houses, the streets, the people.
Of course, this light is not unique to Olhão. There are other places in the Algarve where you can experience its glory. But for me, the ‘Golden Hour’ here is a fascinating combination with the worn-down, sometimes a little fatigued, atmosphere that still surrounds this fishermen’s town.
Like with the Rothko paintings, the Algarvian light changes reality, making it softer, friendlier and more beautiful. Olhão is maybe not as easily loved as Tavira, Lagos or Silves. But a visit in the late afternoon, strolling through the cobbled streets and watching the boats return after a long fishing day, you might well find yourself falling in love with the light of Olhão. And once this light touches you, you will find yourself changed as well…
ROB DOES
UNDERGROUND
GOING
MEDITERRANEAN BULBS, CORMS AND RHIZOMES ARE ALWAYS WORTH HAVING IN A GARDEN. THEY ALL TAKE THE SENSIBLE CHOICE AND AVOID OUR HOT DRY SUMMERS BY GOING UNDERGROUND AND DOING ALL THEIR GROWING AND FLOWERING IN AUTUMN AND WINTER AND SPRING
Words: BURFORD HURRY
Previous spread, left-hand page: Iris x hollandica. Right-hand page, top left clockwise: Freesia laxa; Haemanthus albiflos; Crocosmia; Narcissus papyraceus. This page: Haemanthus coccineus
THERE HAVE been gardens in the Algarve for centuries. However, because water came from a well or a cisterna, it had to be used sparingly. It was used to quench the thirst of humans and animals, possibly to grow vegetables for food, but certainly not to keep flowers alive. For these reasons country gardeners have recognised the value of bulbs, corms and rhizomes for decades. They don’t need a lot of water or attention. Their flowers are attractive and many of them have survived because of their hardiness. Because of that, frugal waterwise country folk chose to only grow certain ornamental plants, and bulbs were one of them. Their flowers can either be modest or glorious, and often have perfume; they often don’t last long but they always create an impression when they bloom.
Freesias are an example of this choice. If any of you have ever renovated a ruina in the Algarvian countryside you will be very familiar with freesias. They were a usual feature of most country cottages. Untended and neglected for years they have soldiered on. First planted in canteiros elevados (raised beds) around the cisterna they often escaped into the garden. Their small white and mauve flowers in early spring may be modest but their perfume is exuberant and is a welcome sign that our winter is coming to an end.
You are fortunate if you already have these in the garden as you won’t be able to easily track them down commercially. They have been edged out of the market by their superior and rather elegant taller hybrids who come in a range of colours from yellow, pure white to red and purple. These hybrids can be found as single or double flowers and also have scent but that is rather more restrained than their country ancestors. They too are certainly worth planting. Friends of mine planted theirs out on the fringe of the wild field at the bottom of their garden
We are familiar with the white, purple and pale blue irises, but they come in an extraordinary range of colours and can reach heights of one metre.
where they looked good for a couple of springs. However, the wild grasses eventually got the better of them.
Plant the corms in early autumn, five to ten centimetres deep, in well drained soil and fairly close together.
I have flowering grass (Freesia laxa) in my garden ten to 20 centimetres in height. Mine has pretty red flowers which are a flattened version of the ordinary freesia but she comes in white and blue as well. They, too, are very easy to grow; in fact, given half a chance they will become invasive. Another corm that was also found around country cottages was the montbretia (Crocosmia). Like freesias, these bulbs thrive on neglect. Fiery orange spears pushing through tall, slim leaves make a colourful splash in the billiard green countryside in spring. Their bulbs should be planted a little more deeply than freesias, about 10 to 20cm in fertile soil in clumps. When they have finished flowering their leaves die and go brown. You may be itching to cut the leaves off before that happens but leave them to do that before cutting them off.
There are several varieties of Crocosmia; however, I have tried one, Lucifer, with little success. So I would suggest you get the unnamed local variety. They do have a disadvantage, though, as they tend to take over a garden if left untended.
An unusual bulb which flowers in the late summer or very early autumn and then proceeds to die back in early summer is the Paint Brush or Blood Lily (Haemanthus coccineus). From the mediterranean Cape she is waterwise and so needs to be planted in a sunny place which receives only rainwater.
I grow my blood lily in a tall clay pot to take advantage of her magnificent broad and green leaves rather than for her flower. For while the latter is quickly over, the handsome leaves are carried above the soil for the winter. However, planting a couple or more in the ground can also have a big impact. Bury the bulb so the neck of the bulb is at the surface of the soil. Keep an eye open for
snails as they can blemish the beauty of their leaves. Being poisonous, she is remarkably disease and pest free.
In the past, one challenge was actually finding bulbs of the blood lily, but their reputation as a Mediterranean and waterwise plant has been growing so they can now be seen at plant fairs and in nurseries. In fact, I saw some at the Garden Association of Portugal’s last autumn fair and, apart from the red variety, there was also a white variety albiflos) for sale. I have never grown the white variety but as it grows in both the winter and summer rainfall areas of South Africa she apparently prefers a shadier position in the garden.
A bulb with stunning blooms is the Dutch iris, which grows extremely well here. I grew them in South Africa, and often wondered why an iris from Holland should flourish under an African or Mediterranean sun. I have only recently discovered that she is a hybrid iris developed in the 19th century in Holland – hence the Dutch connection – from species native to Portugal, Spain and North Africa. Two varieties of Iris xiphium from Spain and from Portugal were crossed with Iris tingitana. the challenges of our climate.
In the early spring I have seen gorgeous patches of violetpurple Dutch irises in a couple of abandoned canteiros. One was below Querença and the other in Gorjões. Glowing like a handful of amethysts the beauty of their colour always took my breath away. Plant them in clusters with the tip of the pointed bulbs just below the surface of the soil and a few centimetres apart for a really lovely display.
Spanish Irises (Iris xiphium) can often be found growing wild in the Algarve. They are a little shorter than their Dutch progeny but are also worth planting.
Another favourite bulb of country folk were the Paper whites (Narcissus papyraceus) the Algarve. Planted around the cottage, their arrival in late winter and early spring filled the air with their sweet, strong fragrance. Each bulb produces two to three tall stems of pure white flowers, so they are also grown as cut flowers for the vase. Paper whites would be a welcome and lovely addition to our gardens or containers.
And so we come to the Flag or Bearded iris (Iris × germanica), an iris with a thick, woody and rough looking root called a rhizome. Her origins are not known but she is suspected – surprise, surprise – as having a Mediterranean connection. Legend has it that the early road builders in the Algarve planted these irises along the side of the roads as they inched along. That makes sense as the irises would have been stuck into the ground after a rudimentary superficial digging so that some of her roots were buried but with most of the rhizome exposed to the sun. Exactly what irises like.
We are familiar with the white, deep purple and pale blue varieties but irises come in an extraordinary range of colour. They flower in the spring and can reach heights of anything from 30cm to one metre. Their perfume is subtle and lovely. I grew a gorgeous iris in South Africa with generous ruffled pink petals and an orange beard. She was stunning. Of course, she only lasted a couple of days, but seeing her fragile exquisite beauty unfold made it worthwhile.
If after reading this you are tempted to join the growing underground movement, start planning now. Make a list of those plants you would like to grow. Then, from August onwards start looking for a source of your choices, and remember the MGAP nursery Fair at the end of October will have many of the bulbs you would like. Plant more bulbs in your garden and in containers. They will reward you in autumn, winter and spring.
t. +351 917 203 850 . design@suzisteinhofel.com . www.designworks.com.pt
Food for thought
WHAT IF YOU COULD EAT YOUR WAY TO A SHARPER, HEALTHIER BRAIN?
SCIENCE TELLS US THAT WHAT WE PUT ON OUR PLATES DIRECTLY IMPACTS ON HOW WELL OUR MIND FUNCTIONS. NOW THAT ’ S A NO BRAINER
Words: SALLY DIXON
THE ALZHEIMER’S Society makes a sobering statement that ‘one in three people born in the UK today will develop dementia in their lifetime’. Read that again. One in three. As the subject of menopause grows apace on social media, symptoms of brain fog and forgetting what you did yesterday are joked about in memes and Reels to garner likes. I’m the first one to admit I’ve got a memory like a sieve. I blame it on starting and running my own sportswear brand – hello major stress! I lost valuable brain cells in the eight years of running my own business. But instead of accepting our hormonal (or ‘ageing’ for the fellas out there) brain fate, should we be doing something about it?
As science’s understanding of brain health advances, one thing is becoming increasingly clear: what we eat plays a
crucial role in how our minds function. Cognitive decline, once considered an inevitable part of ageing, is now understood to be influenced by diet, lifestyle, and environmental factors – factors we can, to some extent, take control of. From brain fog and mild cognitive impairment (MCI) to conditions like Alzheimer’s and dementia, emerging research highlights the profound impact of nutrition on cognitive well-being.
UNDERSTANDING COGNITIVE DECLINE
Cognition encompasses mental processes such as thinking, memory, learning, perception, and attention. It determines how we interact with the world around us, solve problems (or not), and make decisions (or not). Our brains go through natural changes as we age, but certain factors can speed up cognitive decline. The good news? Many of these can be influenced by lifestyle choices, especially diet.
Cognitive decline typically progresses through four stages:
No Cognitive Impairment (NCI) – Your brain is functioning normally.
Subjective Cognitive Impairment (SCI) –You might notice subtle memory lapses, but they don’t affect daily life.
Mild Cognitive Impairment (MCI) –
Memory and thinking skills decline more noticeably than ‘normal ageing’ but don’t yet interfere significantly.
Dementia – More severe cognitive decline, affecting quality of life and independence.
The earlier we take steps to nourish our brains, the better we can protect against its decline!
THE SCIENCE BEHIND COGNITIVE DECLINE
While genetics play a role, lifestyle choices are just as, if not more, important in keeping our minds sharp. Food For The Brain Foundation states that just 1 in 100 cases of Alzheimer’s are attributed to genes we inherit, meaning other modifiable risk factors may be at play. Here are some key culprits behind cognitive decline:
Chronic Inflammation: Chronic systemic inflammation can cause inflammation in the brain, potentially leading to memory problems and cognitive impairment.
Gut Health Issues: The gut and brain are closely connected, and an imbalance in gut microbiota can contribute to cognitive issues.
Hormonal Changes: Fluctuations in estrogen, testosterone, and stress hormones can impact memory, mood, and executive function.
Mitochondrial Dysfunction: These tiny powerhouses of our cells help fuel brain activity. When they don’t function properly, cognition can suffer.
Obesity and Metabolic Problems: Excess weight and insulin resistance are linked to a higher risk of dementia in later life.
WANT TO KEEP YOUR BRAIN SHARP?
A growing body of research suggests that the right nutrients can support brain function, protect against cognitive decline, and even reverse some damage. Here are some of the most important dietary factors:
1. The Mediterranean Diet
Is there a health condition out there that doesn’t recommend the Mediterranean Diet (MedDiet)?! It’s a firm favourite when it comes to scientific dietary research, and one of the most extensively studied dietary patterns for cognitive health. Rich in whole foods, healthy fats, and antioxidants, this diet has been shown to slow brain ageing.
The MedDiet is particularly rich in:
Healthy Fats: Extra virgin olive oil, nuts, and fatty fish provide essential omega-3 fatty acids that support brain structure and function.
Antioxidant-Rich Foods: Berries, leafy greens, and colourful veggies help combat oxidative stress.
Whole Grains & Legumes: Provide steady energy for brain function.
Lean Protein: Fish, poultry, and legumes support neurotransmitter production.
2.
The MIND Diet
A combination of the Mediterranean and DASH (Dietary Approaches to Stop Hypertension) diets, the MIND diet focuses on foods that specifically support brain health. Research indicates that adopting this eating pattern as a lifestyle is associated with a reduced risk of Alzheimer’s and a slower rate of cognitive decline. The key elements include:
3+ servings a day of whole grains
1+ servings a day of vegetables
6+ servings a week of green leafy vegetables
5+ servings a week of nuts
4+ meals a week with beans in
2+ servings a week of berries
2+ meals a week of poultry
1+ meals a week of fish
Olive oil for cooking
Limited intake of red meat, butter, cheese, sugary foods/drinks, alcohol, and sweets
3. Omega-3 fatty acids
Omega-3s, particularly DHA (docosahexaenoic acid), are essential for brain health. Found in fatty fish, like salmon, mackerel, and sardines, DHA helps maintain brain cell integrity and supports neurotransmission. According to Food For The Brain Foundation, over 90% of the structural fat in the brain is made up of DHA. And we’re hardly short on fresh fish here in Portugal! Food for the Brain Foundation recommends three weekly servings of fish (at least two of them oily fish).
4. Probiotics and Gut Health
A happy gut equals a happy brain! The gut microbiome has a direct influence on brain function. Research shows that probiotics and prebiotic-rich foods, such as yogurt, kefir, sauerkraut, and fibre-rich vegetables can enhance cognitive function by reducing inflammation and supporting neurotransmitter balance.
5. B Vitamins
B vitamins, particularly B12, B6, and folate, are crucial for brain function. They aid in the production of neurotransmitters
and help regulate homocysteine levels, which, when elevated, can contribute to neurodegenerative diseases. Good food sources include eggs, dairy, leafy greens, and fortified foods.
LIFESTYLE HABITS FOR A SHARP MIND
While diet is fundamental, cognitive function is also influenced by lifestyle choices. The following habits can enhance brain health:
Move More: Maintaining a consistent exercise routine helps boost blood flow, including to the brain. Exercise also stimulates the production of brain-derived neurotrophic factor (BDNF), fuelling the growth of new brain cells and neurons, keeping your mind sharp and resilient.
Quality Sleep: Sleep is essential for memory consolidation and clearing out brain toxins. Aim for seven to nine hours per night. Research points to seven to eight hours being optimal for brain health, as too much sleep may be as detrimental as too little!
Manage Stress: Chronic stress can shrink brain regions related to memory. Practices like meditation, deep breathing, and mindfulness can help.
Exercise Your Mind: Engage in mentally stimulating activities, such as learning a new language, playing an instrument, going to a museum, gallery, cinema or theatre, or doing puzzles/crosswords. Just make sure to keep switching up the challenge and not focus on one activity repetitively. Keep your brain on its toes!
Stay Social: Strong social ties have been linked to a reduced risk of cognitive decline. Plan those coffee dates and walking meetups.
THE FUTURE OF BRAIN HEALTH
Science is discovering more every day how diet and lifestyle can shape cognitive function. While no single food or supplement can guarantee perfect brain health, a well-rounded approach, including smart food choices, movement, sleep, and stress management can help keep your mind sharp and resilient for years to come. There are plenty of apps out there that claim to ‘train your brain’ but as we already live in a tech-heavy world do we really need another reason to be looking at our phones? By making smart food and lifestyle choices today, you can build a strong foundation for your future cognitive health and mental wellbeing. It’s a no-brainer!
If you’re interested in testing your cognitive function, check out the free Cognitive Function Test online from Food For The Brain Foundation, at foodforthebrain.org
and Care Home
The tranquil village of Monte da Palhagueira in the sun-dappled Portuguese hills has elevated luxury retirement living to new heights.
A traditional development of beautiful villas, houses and apartments, Monte da Palhagueira offers luxury independent retirement living with the added reassurance of qualified medical assistance on hand should it ever be required.
Our English Nursing and Care Home offers a wide range of professional services. From convalescent and respite to full residential care with 24/7 Nursing safety. We offer tailored Person-centric holistic care: it is all about you and your needs.
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BETWEEN THE TWO WORLD WARS
FOURTEEN THOUSAND SOLDIERS KILLED IN BATTLE, MANY THOUSANDS MORE DEAD DUE TO DYSENTERY AND DISEASES OF THE TRENCHES, AND HUGE NUMBERS RETURNING HOME FROM WORLD WAR ONE WITH LIFE-CHANGING INJURIES. FOR A SMALL COUNTRY EMBROILED IN A WAR THAT THEY HAD TRIED TO AVOID, PORTUGAL SUFFERED TERRIBLE LOSSES
Words: CAROLYN KAIN
BY THE END of 1918, the country owed the equivalent of £8million to the British government for equipment and munitions they had supplied. Portugal had only entered the Great War supporting Britain as its ‘oldest ally’ and now it was faced with paying costs it could not afford.
Even before the War and throughout the early 1920s, the country’s debt increased as the Escudo (the currency of the time) decreased in value. This ever-present problem caused people to live in abject poverty so that governments came and left in quick succession, unable to improve the country’s finances. There were some improvements to the social order, education and religious freedom but when there was no funding to pay state employees and the army, there was a coup and yet another government fell.
In the aftermath, a cavalry officer, General Carmona, was named as President. He described his regime as “a dictatorship without a dictator” and let it be known he was an admirer of Mussolini. Carmona was an orator who preached an undertaking that he would, “Make Portugal great again”. He had young lads in black shirts marching about the streets of Lisbon looking impressive, but despite his enthusiasm for military theatricals he was unable to tackle Portugal’s dire financial situation.
His request for a loan from the League of Nations was unsuccessful but a small victory was achieved when he persuaded Winston Churchill to write off 75% of Portugal’s outstanding war debt. But that could not solve Portugal’s ever-increasing monetary woes. Surprisingly, Carmona continued as President for 25 more years, due to the appointment of António de Oliveira Salazar, who was to become the country’s financial czar.
A lecturer at Coimbra University, Salazar was the first to teach economics.
As a direct result, employment figures increased, more taxes were raised and foreign investors and tax exiles were attracted to what had become a well run, stable country.
Inevitably, Salazar became the ideal choice to be the next Prime Minister, and in 1932 he was the 100th to take on the role. Simultaneously, Carmona had him draft a new constitution. The stated aim was to preserve traditional values but without the involvement of political parties; necessarily, it had to be both anti-democratic and authoritarian.
The Estado Novo, or New State as it was called, was to be Catholic, financially cautious and its citizens were to show respect for the authority of the constitution and the values of family life. Within the home the husband and father were head of the household and this role was replicated in parliament by the head of the Portuguese national family. Technically, this was the President but Carmona had divested so much of his power to Salazar that effectively he was the father in charge. The Church was re-established as the country’s mother, and like all other mothers it came under the rule of the father of the family, Salazar.
The Estado Novo was to be Catholic, financially cautious and its citizens were to show respect for authority
A contributor to academic journals, he was described as “one of the most powerful minds of the new generation”. He successfully stood for parliament where President Carmona offered him the position of Minister of Finance. He did not immediately accept but instead criticised the military junta and the disorganisation inside parliament. He insisted that the job as Minister of Finance must be done his way. At first the generals who held most of the ministerial posts refused, but as the financial situation worsened Salazar’s demands for absolute control were met. Finally he moved to Lisbon to take up the post.
A change for the better – financially
With the policies Salazar introduced, there was an extraordinary turn around in Portugal’s finances. Government spending was radically reduced Taxes were raised
Money borrowed from pension funds and state-owned banks was wisely invested
Irrigation and transport needs were vastly improved Packaging and canning factories were expanded Rice replaced wheat as a major crop
Tightening up
Compared to the constitution drawn up by the First Republic, these new statutes removed the rights of many citizens, particularly women, most of whom could no longer vote.
Trade unions were replaced by statecontrolled workers’ syndicates.
Political parties and the Freemasons were unlawful.
State employees were obliged to join the single party of the National Union and sign an annual oath of allegiance to the dictatorship.
Strikes were outlawed.
Censorship of newspapers was introduced, including the content of all forms of publication.
Women lost the freedom to travel, manage their own assets, take on certain roles of leadership, go to work without the permission of the head of the family, seek a divorce or an abortion (punishable by two to eight years in prison).
Different rights were applied to legitimate and illegitimate children. Any resentment, protests or criticisms of the constitution were repressed by the International Police for the State Defence. New courts were set up and political prisoners were incarcerated in harsh conditions with the worst offenders sent to a death camp at Tarrafal located on Cape Verde.
Despite the cruelty of the regime, most Portuguese preferred living under the rules of the ‘Estado Novo’ to the anarchy that had previously existed. It is a measure of the chaos that followed the collapse of the monarchy and the turmoil of the First Republic that Salazar won over the majority of the population. Perhaps more importantly his foreign policies had distanced the country from the Nazis and consequently Portugal avoided direct confrontation with Germany in the Second World War.
Bright colours, bold patterns, and lively designs define Costa Nova’s new hallmark collection, “Summer Bliss.” French designer Laetitia Rouget, whom I met in Paris, created this colourful dinnerware. We talked about her partnership with Costa Nova, her new home near Lisbon, and her sources of inspiration. I was struck by her intoxicating cheerfulness.
Laetitia has also launched a unique assortment of quirky candleholders, eyecatching vases, and cheeky plates. Each piece is handmade “with love and naughtiness” in Portugal and will be proudly presented by me.
n : Monday - Friday 10.00-13.00; 15.00-18.00; Saturday: 10.00-14.00
HOMES: Rua das Lojas, Rua 5 de Outubro nº 68 .
Fa SH iO n and accESSOR i ES: Rua José Fernandes Guerreiro, nº39
RECOGNITION INSTANT
ONE OF THE MOST AMAZING SUPERPOWERS THAT SMARTPHONES HAVE DEVELOPED RECENTLY IS THE ABILITY TO LOOK AT THEIR SURROUNDINGS THROUGH THE CAMERA AND WORK OUT WHAT IS GOING ON – SPOTTING FACES, WORKING OUT WHAT THINGS ARE, AND EVEN READING TEXT IN ALMOST ANY LANGUAGE AND TRANSLATING IT INTO YOUR OWN
Words: CHRIS PARTRIDGE
OF COURSE, reading QR codes is trivially easy. This uncanny ability to classify what is going on around is, of course, powered by artificial intelligence (AI) and all the big players are involved. It is incredibly useful and a lot of fun. If you want to know what that unusual flower is, just take a picture, press the button and the AI system will search the web and come up with the answer faster than you can say taxonomy. A lot faster in fact – the speed is usually limited only by the speed of the internet where you happen to be.
Buildings, animals, products on supermarket shelves, all can be identified. Menus in anything from Thai to Tibetan can be translated and displayed. The device can even read a handwritten mathematical formula and work out the results showing its workings just like your maths teacher used to insist on.
Most new smartphones come with the system built-in. Google Lens is part of recent Android releases, Apple Visual Lens is part of newer iOS versions, and Samsung Lasso comes with recent versions of the company’s OneUI Android overlay. Other intelligent search options come in the form of apps, such as Microsoft’s Bing Visual Search and more specialist search engines such as Pinterest.
While both tools serve similar functions, Google Lens excels in deep searches and integrations with Google’s vast database, whereas Samsung Lasso prioritises fast,
Top: Google Lens is a new release for Androids. Above: Apple’s CamFind can find anything
on-device processing with enhanced privacy.
Image search is very useful for shopping, enabling you to take a picture of a product and find where to buy it online and comparing prices across multiple websites. Please be discreet when using this in your local supermarket, however. The manager might take umbrage.
Image search is also great for identifying landmarks and historical sites in real-time as you travel. Ever wondered what that big tower with the clock at the north end of Westminster bridge is called? Image search will tell you instantly.
When used in mapping applications, image search is a great way of getting information about local attractions and restaurants.
In the home, image search can be useful for finding stylish and attractive furniture, home decor items and clothing styles. My personal favourite is the ability to identify plants, flowers and animals instantly. As a complete ignoramus on biology, image search transforms me into a wildlife expert.
SPECIALIST IMAGE SEARCH ENGINES
Pinterest Lens App
Search for home decor, fashion, and food ideas in Pinterest. Best for shopping, fashion, and home decor discovery.
CamFind
Identifies objects using AI-powered search to provide shopping links and price comparisons. Allows video-based searches. A solid choice for general object recognition with a strong focus on shopping assistance.
TapTapSee (for visually impaired users)
Uses AI and voice-over to describe objects for visually impaired users. Can recognise currency, barcodes, and everyday objects, ideal for blind or visually impaired users who need audio-based descriptions of objects.
Amazon StyleSnap
Identifies fashion items from images so you can find similar clothing on Amazon. Perfect for fashion shopping (on Amazon) and finding outfits based on reference images.
Yuka
Scan food and cosmetics on the supermarket shelves to get an instance of assessment about the impact on your health. Great for weeding out the ultra processed food from your shop.
Need to knows
HOW TO USE GOOGLE LENS
The power of Google Lens can be unleashed either in the Google photos app, or in your smartphone’s camera app.
To search within the Google Lens app, press the Lens icon. It will switch the camera on and you can then point it at the item you want to identify. Press the search button and it will bring up items similar to the thing in the picture.
To use Google Lens within the Google photos app, select an image in the app. You will see the Google Lens icon at the bottom of the screen. Click on that and you will be presented with a bunch of similar pictures from which you can make a choice.
Using Google Lens in the phone’s camera app is very similar. Just open the app, select Google Lens or activate Google Lens Mode in the menu, point the camera at the object you want to identify and press the button.
HOW TO USE SAMSUNG LASSO
Samsung Lasso allows users to extract objects from an image and use them in other applications. To do this, first open a photo in the Samsung Gallery app, then press and hold on the object you want to extract. The AI will automatically detect the edges and separate the object. Once extracted, you can save it as a separate image, drag and drop it into another app or search for similar images online.
Samsung Lasso also lets you identify objects by drawing around them. Just open any image or webpage, press and hold the home gesture button to activate Lasso and draw a circle around the object you want to search for. Samsung AI will analyse it and shrink the circle round the object to identify it securely.
HOW TO TRANSLATE TEXT IN REAL-TIME
Open the search app and select the Translate mode. Point your camera at the text and Google Lens will overlay it with a translation in real-time. With Samsung Lasso, you will need to extract the text and copy it to the clipboard, then choose Translate.
And homework problems can be sorted, too, even the most complex of maths questions.
This month’s judge, Beverly Kenworthy, lives in Cleveland, Ohio. Her passion for photography started 48 years ago, and although she has tried various brands of cameras, she has always come back to Nikon. She currently shoots with a Z8 mirrorless. Her main photographic interests are birds, landscape and travel photography. A member of the Cleveland Photographic Society, she has personally mentored over 40 club members
INA TANZER CHESTNUTS
Vila Real de St. António, January 2025
Camera Sony RX100
BK: “Black and white was the perfect choice to enhance an already excellent composition. The clear and sharp focus of subject, even without colour, makes the man’s interesting expression stand out. This artist allowed the steam to enhance, rather than become too heavy by inexperienced editing.”
1st place
NIGEL MOORE
LOULÉ MARKET BY NIGHT
Loulé, August 2021
Camera Fuji XS 10
BK: “Leading lines are one of the most pleasing and, if done well, dramatic tools in photography. In this photo, all the lines converge on the same spot – the door at the back. Everything about this composition is well done. Care was taken to line every line perfectly. That took some careful planning and logistics. There is truly nothing to improve about this photo.”
2nd place
M arket traders
GERRY KERR
MARKET BUSINESS
Tavira Market, January 2025
Camera XT-5
“The woman’s determination to get the sale done, and the man buying that huge head of cabbage, not happy to be running this particular errand, are well documented. The detail is really wonderful – the knit in the sweater, the details in the produce, the structure of the building, the floor. The more I look at this, the more I like it. Great Job!” 4th place
GLYN PARRY
PEIXEIRO
Loulé, January 2025
Camera Nikon D5
BK: “What a pleasant face this man has! Proudly holding up the catch of the day. I love the presence of the steely gray in the foreground fish, the scale, his catch, and his hair. He is, without doubt, the subject, yet with the shades of gray framing him, I can almost smell the fish. Great job capturing not only the scene, but the pride of this shopkeeper.”
3rd place
BINA CLINE
UNFORTUNATELY CLOSED
São Brás de Alportel, January 2025
Camera iPhone 15 Pro Max
“I like the shades of green throughout the photo – the tarps covering the produce, the ceiling panels, and the shades. It adds a unifying element to an attractive composition. Rather than looking at the closed market as a loss of a photo-op, the artist here made the best of an uncluttered space and subject by thinking outside the box.”
5th place
To apply for membership or check exhibition dates at the Museu do Traje,
São Brás, visit algarvephotographersgroup.org
PINETREES
CENTRO HÍPICO | RIDING CENTRE
Off road riding through the Ria Formosa Forest
Training from beginners to experienced riders wishing to prepare for competition, horse ownership or exams
Riding gear included in the prices.
For Coffee Lovers
Discover bean17 in Loulé Market! Savour house-roasted Speciality Coffees like espresso or cappuccino, indulge in organic kombucha, and treat yourself to heavenly homemade cakes. Take the magic home with freshly-roasted organic Arabica beans from Peru and Ethiopia. Craving more? There are healthy breakfasts, light lunches, and a curated selection of premium products, including Portuguese olive oil, flor de sal, and more. Come for the coffee, stay for the joy!
Centre)
GREAT TAST E TAPPING INTO
THE POPULARITY OF CRAFT BEER HAS GATHERED PACE IN THE ALGARVE. TRY SOMETHING DIFFERENT THIS MONTH AND INSTEAD OF A VINEYARD TOUR, BOOK A BREWERY VISIT AND LEARN MORE ABOUT THESE GOLDEN DELICIOUS TREATS
Words: LAURA SHEA
Serving up cool, laid-back vibes and up to 20 different craft beers, the Nano Brew is guaranteed to give you a night to remember. Offering something for everyone, there is a low alcohol option, so even the designated driver doesn’t have to miss out on the flavours during a visit. A couple of stars of the show to try if available are the Two Berry, a beer with blackcurrant and blackberry notes, and the Grapefruit Goose, which features salt from Olhão and grapefruit juice from the Alentejo. Open Friday, Saturday and Sundays from 17h00, the Nano Brew always has a buzzing atmosphere and fun people to chat to. Keep an eye on their Facebook page to see when they have live music on for a truly special outing. nanobrew.pt/
DOS SANTOS CRAFT BEER, CARVOEIRA
Offering a fantastic selection of beers, from pale ale and lager to a delicious stout, Dos Santos is one brewery not to be missed. Following the ancient German purity law of reinheitsgebot, only the finest ingredients are used to create this range of drinks. The Quinta Dos Santos vineyard near Carvoeiro is the location of the fantastic taproom, where visitors can enjoy a taste of one of the classic beers, as well as seasonal specials. See first-hand the process of brewing these drinks, and then head to the taproom to discover your favourite. With exceptional views of the countryside and a stylish and modern restaurant serving up stunning tapas dishes, this is a great day out for couples. And even if you aren’t a fan of ales, you can treat yourself to some of the gorgeous wines made by the company instead! dossantoscraftbeer.com/
A family-run micro-brewery in the heart of Loulé, Nova Vida offers a true feeling of passion for the craft when you visit. A smallscale business, every aspect is looked after from start to finish by the owners, ensuring that each drop of beer that is served is exactly how they want it to be. The selection of beers available is unique and truly exciting for any craft connoisseur, each having a history rich in meaning and nostalgia for the family. They offer a brewery tour with the brewmaster, which is an incredible experience for anyone interested in the process, and you get to sample five beers afterwards with a lesson in zythology, the science of beer! Also available is a brewing workshop, which would be the ideal gift for any beer enthusiast; they will be guided from the beginning to create their own dream ale or lager, and get to take home up to 20 litres of it once fermentation is complete! novavida.pt/
ALGARVIAN BREWING, PORTIMÃO
Located at the Zona Ribeirinha of Portimão, the Algarvian Brewing Company offers a selection of craft beers and delicious, authentic Mexican food. With a fresh and cool vibe, there will be plenty of beers to taste whilst you soak up the atmosphere, either inside or out on the comfy terrace. You can really feel a part of the action inside as you sit around the brewing equipment chowing down on a selection of tacos and nachos and deciding which of the 12 taps to try next. Ideal for meeting up with friends, this place offers a fun and relaxed chillout spot for those who appreciate craft beers and know what they like. @algarvian.brewing
NANO BREW, FUSETA
NOVA VIDA, LOULÉ
SPRING IS IN THE AIR BUT IT MIGHT NOT BE WARM ENOUGH YET FOR A BIT OF SUN-SITTING BY THE POOL OR ON THE BEACH. SO, STAY UNERCOVER, GET OUT YOUR PENCIL (ONE WITH AN ERASER ON THE END) AND GET STUCK INTO THESE TWO HORRORS
FIND THESE US
RUSSELL CROWE
New Zealand-born Russell Crowe gained international recognition as a movie actor when he starred in films like LA Confidential and The Insider in the late 1990s, and then won an Oscar for his performance in Gladiator in 2000. His parents ran a film-set catering firm and he was involved in the movie business from childhood, first in New Zealand and then, after his family relocated, in Australia, where he became a child actor. He also briefly flirted with the idea of a musical career, appearing as ‘Russ le Roq’ lead singer in a band with the unlikely name of 30-Odd Foot of Grunts! He later moved to Canada and then the USA to pursue a career in the movies, appearing in a string of highlyrated films such as Les Miserables in 2012, The Pope’s Exorcist in 2023 and Kraven the Hunter in 2024.
Russell is also a sports fan – especially Rugby League – and has been the co-owner of the South Sydney Rabbitohs since 2006. Two of his cousins have captained the New Zealand cricket team. He also holds strong political views and has spoken out against the Australian Government’s policy of detaining refugees. His charity work has included donations to school sports facilities in rural Australia. He married singer Danielle Spencer in 2003 and the couple have two sons. They divorced in 2018. He currently lives in a small village in New South Wales, Nana Glen, 370 miles from Sydney – which is now famous as the home of Russell Crowe!
Where are they now?
SOME READERS HAVE EMAILED US REQUESTING UPDATES ON CERTAIN PERSONALITIES. SO HERE ARE OUR THREE FOR THE MONTH.... AND SOMETHING TO WARM UP A COLD NIGHT
Words: JILL ECKERSLEY
s
SUSAN BOYLE
No-one who watched it on TV could ever forget Susan Boyle’s performance on Britain’s Got Talent in 2009. Alone, among all the other hopefuls, this middle-aged Scottish lady strode onto the stage, announcing to Simon Cowell that her ambition was to be as successful as West End theatre star Elaine Paige. Both the judges and the audience looked dubious… until Susan began to sing and produced a truly stunning rendition of I Dreamed a Dream from Les Miserables. What a voice! She was given a standing ovation… and that was the start of an amazing career. Since then she has won two Grammy nominations and three Guinness World Records, and has sold more than 25 million albums. Susan is one of nine children from a small town in West Lothian and as she said, before BGT, no-one had given her the chance to achieve her dream, though she did take part in local musical events. Her amazing success has not changed Susan, who still lives in the modest home where she was brought up, although she did buy what she describes as “a posh house…but my niece now lives in it!” She released her most recent album Ten in 2019, but announced that she is taking a break from music after a minor stroke she suffered in 2022. She did, however, achieve her aim of singing with Elaine Paige, who has described Susan as “a role model for everyone who has a dream!”
Most of us think of a hot-water bottle as typically British – especially those of us who remember icy mid-20th century British bedrooms! However, there is evidence that ancient civilisations like the Egyptians and the Greeks used clay pots filled with hot sand, or water, to warm their beds on chilly nights.
In 16th-century Europe the ‘warming pan’ made its appearance, usually made of brass or copper with a long handle, and filled with embers from the fire or hot charcoal. Aristocratic families often had warming-pans decorated with a favourite motif or family crest. They were used to warm the bedclothes before use, because of the risk of burning, although some were wrapped in soft cloth for safety. By the Victorian age, the ‘bottles’ were more usually made of stoneware, in a variety of different shapes.
In 1839, Charles Goodyear invented the ‘vulcanising’ process for rubber, which made the invention of the rubber hotwater bottle we know today a possibility. The invention is usually ascribed to a Croatian engineer called Eduard Penkala and made its appearance in 1903. By the late 20th century, the popularity of central heating and the invention of the electric blanket seemed to threaten the existence of the humble hot-water bottle, but in recent years the increase in household energy bills and the popularity of fancy designs and faux-fur fabrics have led to hot-water bottles making a comeback.
2000s
MO FARAH
Sir Mo Farah is now considered one of the greatest-ever longdistance runners. He was sent to England at the age of eight or nine, accompanied by a complete stranger, to escape war-torn Somalia, where he was born. By the time he was 12 and at school one of his sports teachers recognised the athletic potential of the slim young lad and arranged for him to board with a Somali family, as well as motivating his running. Mo was also a keen soccer fan, and considered a footballing career. But having won several junior titles and with encouragement from other athletes, chose to concentrate on running. He won Gold in both the 5,000 and 10,000 metres at the London Olympics in 2012 and repeated his success at Rio in 2016 – concluding his career with ten championship Golds! After his Olympic success he concentrated on marathons, with his last being the 2023 London event. Between 2011 and 2017 he was based in Oregon, USA, where he also trained, but he was married in 2010 and by 2017 he announced that he wanted to come home to London with his wife, twin daughters and small son, whom he wanted to grow up in the UK. He is still a great fan of Arsenal FC, appeared on the I’m a Celebrity…get me out of TV show in 2020, and has set up his own Mo Farah Charitable Foundation. A BBC documentary in 2022 showed him being reunited with members of his original
HOT WATER BOTTLES
Manuela, a German beautician with 30-years experience, offers the latest technologies at her Almancil salon, including:
Create healthy habits
NEW YEAR RESOLUTIONS? THE MOST COMMON ONES WOULD BE TO LIVE A HEALTHIER LIFE, LOSE WEIGHT, DO MORE EXERCISE, CARRY OUT A HEALTH CHECK UP. THE DEVIL HERE LIES IN THE EXECUTION, SAYS DR THOMAS KAISER OF THE FAMILY HEALTH CENTRE
IHAVE BEEN a doctor for 35 years and learned a lot from my patients over that time. And I know how important it is to understand the human body and mind when it comes to trying to make a habit change happen.
Here are a few essential facts: Our body was designed 50,000 ago when the world was a completely different place. Survival and reproduction were difficult, the world was a dangerous place and normal life like we know it did not exist. Human beings had to hunt and gather, defend themselves physically, collect firewood and walk many miles every day. Life was also short.
Our ancestors life expectancy was also short, the average person probably reached about 35 years. People did not live long enough to develop dementia, cancers or diabetes. They died mostly from infections, mal nutrition or some form of violence that brought an end of their life.
understand where we come from to realise where our present problems have their origin.
We live in the wrong world for our body. Energy is everywhere and we do not have to work for it physically. This is why 50% of the population is overweight.
We have created a generation of anxious and confused young people because our mind and soul are not designed to be on social media all day. Humans are content when they are in small groups who they know and understand, and get confused and anxious when they have 10,000 followers who all have an opinion about them.
It is important to understand the human body and mind when trying to make a habit change happen.
Make it obvious
Make it attractive
Why am I telling you this?
Because it will help you to create healthier habits and have a realistic and practical approach to better mental and physical health.
Here are the tricks for new habit formation.
Bearing this in mind, it is easier to understand why we are by nature ‘lazy’. It makes perfect sense to save energy whenever possible, because it was so difficult to find the sources of it.
Humans crave sugar and fat because by nature it was important to store energy whenever it was available. Being slim was not in fashion in those days. Survival was key, and that made it sexy.
Humans lived in small groups where everybody knew their place. Orientation in the social circle was clear. We may not have liked it, but there was no confusion regarding who was in charge and together. Relationships had a very practical background – survival came first.
The ownership of children was often less clear and the ‘band’ brought up children together. It was sometimes advantageous if it was unclear who the father was as two providers were better than one.
I know this sounds very biological but is important to
Make it easy
Make it difficult not to follow the healthy path
Being slim in our obesogenic society is difficult. Use professionals to help you like nutritionist and personal trainer. And please, protect your children from social media.
DR THOMAS KAISER of the Family Medical Centre recommends that everone adopts a rational regime of health prevention designed by the doctor they trust. In the next edition of AlgarvePLUS, there will be more about healthy habit formation. In the meantime, he says: smile, dream and run!
REMOVALS
REMOVALS
• Weekly removal service to and from the UK, Portugal and Malaga, Spain
STORAGE
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• Full or part packing and wrapping service
STORAGE
• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain
• Storage warehouses located in the UK, Algarve, Lisbon and Malaga, Spain
• Shop online with any furniture retailer and have your items delivered the following week
• Shop online with any furniture retailer have your items delivered the following
• Full or part packing and wrapping service
• Fully insured, secure and alarmed
• Fully insured, secure and alarmed
• One/multiple items of furniture
• One/multiple items of furniture
• One box to full house removals
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• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve
• Storage available for long or short term
• Villa to villa moves within the Algarve
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Your money
RICARDO CHAVES OF ALL FINANCE MATTERS IS HERE TO HELP PEOPLE UNDERSTAND WHAT IS ALLOWABLE – AND NOT – WHEN IT COMES TO FINANCIAL MATTERS IN PORTUGAL. AFM EXPERTS ARE THERE TO ADVISE YOU ON THE BEST WAYS OF DEALING WITH BOTH BUSINESS AND PERSONAL TAX MATTERS TO ENSURE YOU ARE IN THE BEST POSSIBLE POSITION
QI have one property here, my full-time home, which is mortgage free, and would like to buy another to renovate and then sell. I am over 70, with adequate income from pensions and savings, etc. How do I set about getting a loan, or a mortgage, to cover the cost of the new property and the refurbishment, which would be repaid as soon as the sale goes through?
Unfortunately, if you are over 70, your chances of obtaining a mortgage in Portugal are limited, because the norm is that the maximum age at term is between 70 and 75, depending on the lender. In the case of a loan with two holders, the term is calculated based on the age of the older holder.
Please note that in terms of tax, the mortgaged amount will be liable for stamp duty at a 0.6% rate. It is advisable to consult with a financial advisor who can help you explore the best financing options and determine whether it is viable to obtain a bridging loan, which would allow you to buy this property and wait while you sell the current one.
Last but not least, please be aware that the redemption clause when repaying the mortgage is normally 0.5% if the rate is variable, but can be 2% if the rate is fixed. Always study carefully all the costs associated with the mortgage.
QI need to buy a new car – well, a secondhand one – for my son and daughter who are regular visitors with their spouses and children. Any suggestions on this, or any guidelines I should follow to ensure I don’t buy one that is not in tip top condition, etc?
When you buy a used car, you don’t pay taxes, but you will need to pay a registration fee (about €65). To avoid any tax-related issues, it is advisable to research reputable car dealerships, inspect the car thoroughly, and ensure you have all the necessary documentation. The transfer should be completed at the notary or any Loja do Cidadão.
As a purchaser, it is important that you make sure you check that there are no pending debts on the car, as this will prevent the transfer of ownership.
At the same time, the vendor needs to ensure that the purchaser transfers the car to their name; otherwise, despite the sale, you will be liable for any taxes, fines, or other charges incurred by the car until the transfer is completed.
When buying a car in Portugal, the owner will be responsible for the car tax, Imposto Único de Circulação (IUC), paid annually.
QI have made an offer on a property through the estate agent, which I was told was accepted by the vendor. I have had my son and daughter-in-law over from the UK to see the property, and I have had both builders and interior decorators over to check it out.
I have now been told that the vendors have had a large number of offers and asked me to increase mine by some ten percent, which is a considerable increase and not one that is affordable.
Are they allowed to do this, having accepted my offer? And what steps can I take to keep the figure as originally discussed and agreed?
I have already spent time and money on this ‘purchase’ and quite frankly am both annoyed and frustrated right now.
In Portugal, if the vendor has accepted your offer but has not yet signed a contract, they are still allowed to consider other offers. This is because the acceptance of an offer is not legally binding until both parties sign a promissory contract.
Once that promissory contract is signed, both parties are legally bound to the terms laid out, and the vendor cannot accept other offers without facing potential legal repercussions.
Given that you have already invested time and money, you should communicate your concerns to the estate agent and emphasize the efforts and expenses you have already incurred.
It is highly advisable to search for legal advice to understand your legal standing and explore possible actions to maintain the original offer.
Send questions you may have to info@afm.tax for possible inclusion in AlgarvePLUS. To consult directly with the experts at AFM, email info@afm.tax
QI understand the municipality of Loulé are stopping all illegal wooden houses and ordering their demolition. What happens to the families who are living there – will the government re-house them and should we, the locals, try to help them? Surely this is just encouraging unfortunate families to live on the streets and having to beg?
AThis question is as political as it is legal. I invite you to read my interview in the AlgarvePLUS issue of April 2024, (algarveplusmagazine.com/04-2024/ ) where I explain the importance of legallyaccepted foreign investment in the local economy, and the fact that many foreign residents are highly-qualified people and could – and should – be involved in local politics.
It goes without saying that what happens here in local municipalities is as important to the health and wellbeing of your daily life, as what happens in your country of origin.
The streets you walk, and the roads which you drive through, the water that comes out of your tap are all controlled locally.
Key to the message in the April issue is that ex-pats could have an important role to play in what happens locally, which could transform the Algarve, improving quality of life here, boosting the economy and adding value to investment.
With regard to wooden houses, namely whether a licence is needed or not, an addition to the law, passed in January 2024, clearly states that any modular construction, either assembled on site, or previously
GOING LEGAL
LEGAL EXPERTS NELSON RAMOS AND ROBERTA RAMOS WHO, TOGETHER WITH THEIR SPECIALIST TEAM AT RAMOS & ASSOCIADOS IN ALMANCIL, ADVISE CLIENTS ON VARIOUS ISSUES. THIS MONTH, LOUL É’ S PLAN TO DEMOLISH WOODEN HOUSES, AND MATTERS
OF SUCCESSION
assembled, either moveable or not, requires a license prior to building.
An unlicensed wooden house is illegal, and by law the local city council has the powers to demolish it. The decision of the municipality of Loulé is therefore fully in compliance with the law.
The Constitution of the Portuguese Republic says that everyone is entitled to decent housing, with adequate dimensions, conditions of hygiene and comfort that ensures the individual intimacy and the privacy of family life.
There are also additional statutes which impose on the central government and local municipalities the obligation of implementing programmes to ensure habitation for those in need.
I did not find in the municipality’s announcement of demolition of illegal wooden houses any reference to what will happen to the families living in those dwellings. However, the municipality of Loulé has several programmes of social habitation – last autumn, 117 homes were made available at supported rent to those in need. So, it is my belief and hope that those families will not end up on the streets.
QMy son of 35 has married recently, and it is a union I do not support. As a result, I do not want him to inherit anything of my estate when I die. I would prefer everything I have to go to my daughter and her two children. What do I need to be aware of when producing a Will here in Portugal where I have lived full time since 1999. I have no interests outside of this country.
AOn 17 August 2015, a European Union Regulation came into force, which established rules as to which law is applicable to successions, as well as the possibility of choosing the law applicable to succession if you are a foreign national.
If you die intestate (without a Will), the law residence will apply, meaning Portuguese law. This is a system of forced heirship, in which where there are predesignated heirs that cannot be disinherited, as by law they are entitled to a certain share.
If a Will is governed by Portuguese law and there is no surviving spouse, the heirs are your two children. All you can do is to leave one third of your estate to your daughter and her children, which would amount to two thirds, and one third would go to your son, regardless of your wishes.
However, if you are foreign national, or a Portuguese national with one or more other nationalities, then you are allowed to choose the law of your nationality or one of your nationalities to govern your succession.
For that you need to do a Will, in which unequivocally you declare that is your wish that the law of your nationality governs your succession, and not the law of your residence.
Also, the chosen law has to allow you to disinherit your son, which is possible in most Common Law countries, like UK (England and Wales, not Scotland), the majority of USA States, and Australia for instance. But not in most countries governed by ‘Civil Code’ systems, like Portugal.
Email questions for Ramos Associados to martin@algarveplusmagazine.com
Premier Italian Dining Experience
Set in a beautiful setting with an adjacent lifestyle and furniture shop, enjoy thin-crust pizzas, homemade pastas, and fresh salads from our very own garden.
Kitchen: open daily from 12h -23h for dining, takeaway and delivery. Shop: open Mon-Sat 10h-23h & Sun 13h-23h
SPLASH OF PINK
In The Pink Praça da República 69-75 in-the-pink.com
On until end March
This special exhibition includes captivating photographic works by some of the world’s greatest photographic talents including Albarrán Cabrera, Albert Watson, David Yarrow, Derrick Ofosu Boateng, Paolo Roversi, Philipp Keel, Rankin and Robert Popper. Below:
Saïdou Dicko’s Pink,T FR ROSE, 2023
GALERIA MEINKE FLESSEMAN
Portimão, 917 937 564 galeriameinkeflesseman@gmail.com meinke-flesseman.com 15 and 29 March, 15h00–18h00 Life Drawing Session with Jill Stott €30 per person
The Art Studio Taviva 912 584 271 / 910 573 265 theartstudiotavira@gmail.com theartstudiotavira.com
American Landscape 2009, watercolour and acrylic on Arches cotton paper, 160x115cm
FLOW
The Art Gallery, Museu do Traje São Brás, 966 329 073 amigosdomuseu.com
1 March to 19 April
Ana Antonio Gill, Jessica Dunn and Carola Colley have combined forces to present a show of their recent work that ranges from large scale paintings to smaller pieces in oil, watercolour and acrylic, and includes wall mounted multimedia sculpture.
Led by guitarist Miguel Martins, above, with Leon Baldesberger on trumpet, Marco Martins on bass, and João Melro on drums, the group presents their own arrangements of brilliant works by the likes of Wayne Shorter, Charles Mingus, Thelonious Monk, and Ornette Coleman, and others.
8 March, 19h00 and 21h30
GONÇALO SOUSA & SIMON SEIDL
A tribute to Toots Thielemans and Bill Evans, inspired by the iconic album Affinity, which was recorded 45 years ago. Gonçalo and Simon include some of the album’s most emblematic pieces, with improvisation and musical dialogue.
15 March, 19h00 and 21h30
RODA DE SAMBA
With Nani Medeiros and her group, this will be the year’s first Roda de Samba (a celebratory event incorporating music, choreography and poetry). Expect a night full of joy and fun, with music and food to match!
22 March, 19h00 and 21h30
FERNANDO DALCIN
The Brazilian Tenor Guitar - 100 Anos De História is the theme of this concert. The tenor guitar was introduced in Brazil by Annibal Augusto Sardinha, the famous instrumentalist and precursor of Bossa Nova. It quickly gained fame, becoming a constant presence in the discography of Brazilian popular music. Through a rigorously selected repertoire, the musician Fernando Dalcin will present a panorama of works composed by masters of the instrument.
29 March, 19h00 and 21h30
MANAYA TRIO
Ricardo Passos, Marc Planells, and Meir Gassenbauer bring together sounds from various parts of the world, with original compositions and improvisation.
Amigos de Música
Os Agostos, Santa Bárbara de Nexe, amigosdemusica.org 11 and 13 March
Doors open at 18h00 and concerts start at 19h00
The acclaimed twosome, the Snord Piano Duo –Jónína Erna Arnardottir from Iceland and Morten Fagerli from Norway – have given close to 100 concerts in ten European countries and North America since 2012. The duo takes a special interest in Nordic music and musical culture, and several Icelandic and Norwegian composers have written pieces especially for them. Their special programme for Amigos de Música includes works by Norwegian composer Edward Greig. Wine, fruit juices and canapés will be available for self-service from 18h15 before the concert and
during the interval. For programme details, visit the website. To book, email reservasconcertos@gmail.com Entry donation including refreshments is €30pp for AMIGOS guests and non-members, payable in advance by bank transfer.
Fado Tertúlia
Museu do Traje, São Brás 966 329 073, amigosdomuseu.com
8 March, 17h00, Old Gallery
Beatriz Pereira, a local and award-winning Fado singer, accompanied on Portuguese guitar by Filipe Batista and on classical guitar by Nuno Martins, invites the audience to experience the world of Fado. This promises to be an exceptional event where not only will a selection of celebrated Fado songs be performed but the actual Fado story will be told –the origin, the history, the instruments, the costumes and the famous Fado performers. Reserve seats by 6 March. €8 (Amigos €6)
EXPERIENCES
MOVE.TAVIRA
aoa.pt, Instagram: @aoalgarve_oficial, Facebook: @AOAlgarve, 16 March
Praça da República, Tavira start point
MOVE.Tavira is much more than a sporting event. It is an opportunity to unite the community behind a noble cause, celebrating health, solidarity and hope.
This will be the 17th edition of the solidarity initiative organised by the Algarve Oncological Association (AOA) in partnership with the Tavira City Council.
With accessible routes of five and nine kilometres, the event looks to raise awareness of the importance of cancer prevention, especially breast cancer, and promote healthy lifestyles through sport and a balanced diet. At the same time, a key objective is to raise funds to support cancer patients and their families.
Vale do Lobo
valedolobo.com
Cardio conditioning
Tuesdays, 09h00 Fitness Centre
Zumba
Thursdays, 10h00 Fitness Centre
Joint mobility
Thursdays, 11h00, Fitness Centre
Feel the pump
Thursdays, 09h00, Fitness Centre
Morning yoga
5 and 19 March, 10h00, Well
Astronomy observation
7 March, 16h30, Parque do Golfe
M25 tennis tournament, IFT ranking, 10–16 March, Tennis Academy
On the day of the event, in addition to the march and run, participants will have the opportunity to enjoy free health screenings, relaxation massages, fitness classes and the special presence of Legion 501, a group of volunteers who recreate characters from the universe of Star Wars to reinforce the spirit of solidarity. Discover registration details on the website.
Learn the art of making perfect falafels at this multiaward-winning treasure.
Spring Plant Fair 2025
The annual Spring Plant Fair will be held at the Museu do Traje, São Brás on 12 April, from 10h00 to 17h00 where over 20 nurseries will be selling a wide and interesting variety of waterwise plants. In addition, there will be an illustrated talk on starting a dry garden by Teresa Chuva and, like last year, there will also be some amazing indigenous bonsais that will enchant you. It’s certainly a day to talk gardening as there are always gardeners aplenty at the fair. This is where to go to enrich your garden with plants that will accept and grow in our hot summers. Then leave your purchases in the plant crèche and enjoy some refreshment, tasty food and a chat with fellow gardeners and friends.
And finally
ANTHONY MARTIN CAME CLEAN AND CONFESSED HE HAD A HELPER WORK ON HIS PAGE IN OUR FEBRUARY ISSUE. WELL, THE RESULTS WOULD SUGGEST THAT THE ASSISTANT IS PRETTY GOOD AT IT... BUT IS HE FOR REAL? APPARENTLY NOT, AS HE COULDN ’ T ACHIEVE MUCH UNLESS HE WAS FED WORD PERFECT MATERIAL
OKAY, IT’S TIME to fess up. I didn’t write last month’s Final Word column. Yes, it had my name and mug shot at the top of the page, but I had only a miniscule amount of input, yet the editor said it was the best thing I’d written for a long time – and she was partially right. It was good, it was incisive, it had a beginning, a middle and an end, it flowed well and it even had, unlike my scribbles, words of more than three syllables. Except… I didn’t write it.
For various reasons I was, last month, unable to pick up my HBs and produce a lighthearted look on the subject of Valentines’ Day, so I turned to that destroyer of human creativity, that cribbing and plagiarising tech thingy called Artificial Intelligence or AI.
I, however, call it Derek, for I remember the Dereks of my past schooldays. They sat at a desk, in the centre and near the front. Derek’s shoes were shiny, his socks pulled up to his knees and his hair Brylcreemed flat to his head. Never late for class, his arm shot up at every question screaming “I know, I know” as he beamed with selfsatisfaction. Derek was passed over for every sport; he was the unintentional class jester in the gym and came last in the crosscountry run, but he was streets ahead of the others when it came to soaking up information, and not only did he know it, but he would rub our faces in it.
name off it. How dare this arriviste not only use my name but write something better than me, especially as I have just taught him everything he knows. And, just to make me feel worse, this Derek I am imagining has a full head of hair.
Now, don’t get me wrong, Derek has his uses. He can help me remember my wife’s birthday, draft an apology for forgetting it, and even suggest a gift that’s almost as good as a last-minute bunch of flowers. But there’s something deeply unsettling about a machine, except of course he’s not a machine, he isn’t an anything, but whatever he is he can write better than moi, without even breaking into a sweat or needing a coffee break.
If Derek can write columns, will he start penning novels, crafting screenplays, or composing symphonies?
I admit I don’t like my present Derek. I gave him four samples of my scribbles and asked if he could give me 800 words, in my style, on the commercialisation of Valentine’s Day. It took him all of ten seconds to churn out whereas it would take me the best part of a day, and his whole piece was eminently sensible.
Frankly, it was so good I thought he was mixing up my work with somebody else’s and I wanted to take my
The next thing you know, Derek will be writing this column regularly, while I am trying to figure out how to switch him off. I am still in awe of the technology and the ‘how does it do that’ feeling, but I now understand why writers, film makers and so many in the creative world are up in arms with the whole concept of Derek and his ilk.
For if Derek can write columns, what’s next? Will he start penning novels, crafting screenplays, or composing symphonies? And I think I can safely say, for now, the answer to that is no, because Derek does not have any of the human traits such as empathy, understanding or a sense of humour. All he can do is repeat those things that have been written before, and by knowing two and two he can make four and occasionally draw conclusions, but he is incapable of original thought. He does not have that thing that makes us what we are... a soul.
Derek is way ahead of his time, he’s a Mark1, Beta model. He’s work in progress, he’s without flesh on his bones. He’s a car without an engine, a compass without a needle; in short, he’s not quite there yet. And we should all be mightily pleased about that for if he ever arrives, we are finished.
