algarvePLUS - March '21 by Martin

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Melissa Jane

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START OFF PLUS

SUSI ROGOL GOODKIND, EDITOR

+351 965 581 831 | susi@algarveplusmagazine.com

C O N T A C T S MARTIN GOODKIND

KIM COLLEY

Publisher +351 963 146 398 martin@algarveplusmagazine.com

Design +44 (0)7973 426196 dk.colley@btinternet.com

APT 1093, EC Olivas de St Ant (Loulé) 8101-904. Printed by Gráficas Piquer, Almeria Algarve Plus is published monthly. 6,000 copies are made available through a hand-picked distribution network from Faro to Paderne, Almancil, the Golden Triangle, Loulé, São Bras and Santa Barbara. Copyright 2021. All rights reserved. Reproduction of any written material or illustration in any form for any purpose other than short extracts for agreed review purposes, is strictly forbidden. Algarve Plus does not accept liability for loss or damage to any materials submitted for publication. Or claims made by advertisers. The views expressed by interviewees or contributors do not necessarily reflect those of the Editor or Algarve Plus. algarveplusmagazine.com

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This is our first birthday issue (hence new hairstyle, new photo). So hard to believe that at this time last March – a whole year ago – we put our launch offering into distribution across the central region, edging out both east and west and up into the hills. Nail-biting times, certainly; we'd been working on the structure, the style of content, the market position, the design and promotion – and picked our printer – all before Covid was on the map and poised to change the world. We were completed, and on the presses in February, and thrilled with the support we had had from our advertiser partners who made the venture possible, a dazzling team of contributors ready to take up the challenges we throw at them, and the many shops and service providers, galleries, eateries and tourist boards who wanted to be involved. They are all essential ingredients in the AlgarvePLUS story, and have contributed in no small way to our proud success story – actually, our against-all-odds success story – which has seen growth even in this challenging environment. What is incredible, and we will be ever grateful for, is the continued support of our readers who have been fast to grab copies, quick to pass on their own ideas and new-found places, speedy to ask for more. As one said: "AlgarvePLUS has made staying at home that bit easier, and planning for the future that bit more informed." We are passionate about what we do and knowing we are sharing a passion for the place we call home, is hugely rewarding.

Welcome

www.taviradartes.com Visit us: Travessa Jacques Pessoa 8,Tavira, 8800-374 Call us: 962 012 111 Email us: taviradartes@gmail.com Follow us:

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NEWS PLUS

Not what you think

Hyper-realistic hand-blown glassworks by American sculptor Dylan Martinez, whose work challenges the viewer’s expectations. From this illusory series, titled H2O/SiO2, each piece is both hollow and solid, and individually hand-sculpted from crystal-clear glass. They come signed and with a Certificate of Authenticity. Sold in different sizes – 35 x 43cm the largest – individually or as a set of three. Contact micucci.co.uk for details.

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Look good and do good From welligogs.com comes a range of great-looking active wear that is made of – wait for it – recycled plastic bottles that would otherwise clog landfills and threaten wildlife. There’s a great choice of colours and designs and yes, they’ll ship to Portugal. This set, top €55.99, leggings €88.99.

F R O N T COV E R : Cake and sparkles are the perfect way to celebrate a birthday, especially a first one. Share the pleasure

IN THE BAG High on style, this silicone-finish bag, Lucia, can be worn in one of three ways - there are two shoulder options and one clutch. It can be personalise with interchangeable straps – black leather, steel chain, or matte black metal chain – and you can choose your colour from a fashionright selection that includes this bright red. From Italian maker Dampai, it costs €90 and makes its statement on dampai.it/prodotto/lucia-n4-in-silicone/

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Cover-ups We featured the work of tile designer Elisa Passino in last month’s issue – and a loads of enquiries followed. We went back to find out more about her latest collection, Souvenirs d’eté, designed and developed during the pandemic, to bring a touch of summer into your design schemes. There are warm shades, ocean colours and a gorgeous gloss that reminds you of the waves, crashing on the shore. Elisa’s tiles are made in the north, in the Viseu district. See elisapassino.com for more.

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FRESH IDEAS Stunning arrangements and a big visual impact whatever the weather! Floral Image is now running a residential flower service and will deliver your choice from a gorgeous selection of displays in vases, to your door, replacing it every month. The flowers are so realistic you’ll find yourself touching them to make sure. The monthly charge depends on size, from €43.05 to €61.50. 917 770 504 / floralimage.pt

SMART BARK From Australia’s favourite pet store, House of Pets Delight, comes this harness in summery colours. Around €50 and a fashion statement for your pooch. There are collars with outsize daisies, too, that little lady dogs will love. houseofpetsdelight. com/collections/collarsleads

CLOCK TH E CU CKOO

Relections of good taste The Comenda mirror by Portuguese house Nauu, known for its collectible crafted design pieces, takes its name from the palace where Jackie Kennedy reportedly lived after the assassination of her husband John F Kennedy. The rich wood frame and polished brass frieze evoke the old days of glamour and style. €2,200, from nauudesign.com

Known as the harbinger of spring, cuckoos can be spotted here, particularly around Tavira and Castro Marim (so Google says), between end February and June when they return to Africa. You don’t have to go out cuckoo-watching though, when you can buy an enchanting clock that makes all the right noises. This wooden one is made in the Black Forest in Germany, comes in pretty colours, has a volume adjustment and a quartz movement. Best of all, it has a light sensor and when it is dark, your cuckoo does not venture out and wake you. €189 at mykuckoo.com

NEWS PLUS

M O D E R N D AY I N T E R P R E TAT I O N S

LIGHTEN UP

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Luna Take Away is a multifunctional rechargable battery lamp on a steel handle, that can be carried indoors or outdoors and has different brightness settings. Part of the Battery Collection by In-es.artdesign, it is made of Nebulite© (a mix of resin and fibres). The range is huge and as well as different sizes and shapes – all inspired by the moon – there is a choice of colours. Take a look at the collection at in-es.com

According to Roman mythology, Tellus is the goddess of the Earth. In our contemporary world, her name has been given to this sculpted lounge chair from Covet House that honours its deity aura. The sculpted curves, twill fabric, nail head trim and the lacquered back legs add to the wow factor. Visit Covethouse.eu to see the 11 astonishing Portuguese labels the company represents.

Easter bunnies Chocolate eggs get eaten fast and promptly forgotten. Buy a bunny instead that will stay with you year round. There’s a whole family to choose from – the little’uns are 25cm, the big boys larger-than life at 90cm, hand made at Atelier Bongard. If the studio/sculpture garden in Monchique is not open by Easter, you can buy a bunny online at studiobongard.com/shop

BEACH BABES Designer Martina Kaiser, whose gallery in Loulé has a wonderful collection of accessories, has created a group of necklaces for those dreaming about days on the beach. Silver-plated, each has a shell collected by Martina. Visit her online shop – martina-loule.com

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BRIAN REDMOND

BUILDINGS with

STORY T H E R E A R E C E R TA I N P L A C E S A N D PA L A C E S T H AT YO U W O U L D R E C O G N I S E I N S TA N T LY – S I N T R A A N D I T S M U LT I - C O L O U R E D P E N A PA L A C E F O R S TA R T E R S – S O W E LOOKED OUT FOR THE LESSER PHOTOGRAPHED TO INTRODUCE A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE

HEN VISITING Lisbon it is worthwhile taking a journey on the coastal train from the station at Cais de Sodré on the city’s river bank to the sea-side town of Cascais some 25km to the west. The Linha de Cascais hugs the coast and on leaving the station and slipping beneath the grand Ponte 25 de Abril bridge, the train immediately passes some of Lisbon’s most iconic monuments and buildings including the Padrão dos Descobrimentos that celebrates Portugal's era of discovery, the Palácio de Jerónimo, and the famous Torre de Belém each classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. And nearby, the sleek new Museum of Art Architecture and Technology (MAAT), which is linked by a landscaped park to the early 20th-century Central Power Station that, in its time, was the source of electricity for the entire city; now it is an impressive exhibition space.

Film rights The contrast between the old and the new is striking and perfectly executed. The coast along here is sometimes referred to as ‘The Portuguese Riviera’ and at its centre is Estoril. This affluent town grew as a result of its location as the holiday retreat of Portuguese

WORTH SEEING PLUS

Opposite page: The twists and turns of the sleekly sculpted Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology in Lisbon; Porto's A Casa da Música. This page, below: The Hotel Bela Vista in Praia da Rocha; The Palácio de Jerónimo, Belém; São Bento railway station, Porto

seafront location and lighthouse backdrop, is Casa Santa Maria. The house was commissioned by O’Neill as a wedding present for his daughter in 1902 and was designed by the architect Raul Lina. It was acquired by the Espírito Santo family in 1934. Marta Espírito Santo, Head of International Relations at Quintela + Penalva, explains: “My grandfather bought the house because it faced my grandmother’s house. We’ve always called the house Santa Marta because of its location ‘enseada Santa Marta’. It was in my family for 70 years and we were lucky to have a house overlooking the Atlantic Ocean”. The magnificent building was bought by the municipality in 2004 and is now a museum, which houses a superb tile collection. The adjacent lighthouse, Farol de Santa Marta, has also been renovated and includes its own museum designed by the Portuguese architect Aires Mateus. A new radio station called Lusophonica now broadcasts live from a café in between the two monuments.

nobility. The famous Palácio Estoril Hotel, which opened in 1930, hosted numerous exiles from Europe’s royal families during the Second World War because Portugal remained neutral. It was also the meeting place of spies and messengers from both the Axis and Allied sides. Ian Fleming, who was a naval intelligence officer during the War, used the hotel as inspiration for his book On Her Majesty´s Secret Service; in fact, scenes from the Bond film of the same name would in later years be filmed there. The looming Casino Estoril, which is the focal point of the town, is said to have influenced Fleming’s Casino Royale. The train line ends a short distance away at Cascais, a very attractive town with a horseshoe bay, a beautiful sandy beach, a marina and a fishing harbour. But what is immediately obvious about the town is the abundance of majestic mansions and houses dotted around the place. At least three of these houses were commissioned in the early part of the 20th century by a local business man and dignitary, one Jorge Torlades O’Neill, a descendant of an old Irish dynasty.

A family matters The most striking of theses houses, simply because of its dramatic

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WORTH SEEING PLUS

Before leaving Cascais, there is another building that is well worth a visit and is just a stone’s throw away from the town’s centre. It is called Casa das Histórias Paula Rego. Completed in 2009, it was designed by the acclaimed Portuguese architect Eduardo Souto de Moura and houses an exhibition of the works of the visual artist Paula Rego. But it is more than just an exhibition space; the design and colours of the buildings and their respectful inclusion in the landscape are stunning. Souto de Moura collaborated with another acclaimed Portuguese architect, Álvaro Siza Vieira, in the design of the Pavilhão de Portugal for Expo ‘98. The remarkable feature of Casa das Histórias Paula Rego is an enormous suspended concrete ‘blade’ roof that weighs 1,400 tonnes and appears to hover between two buildings.

A different chord Souto de Moura´s home city of Porto is the location of one of the countries most distinctive modern buildings. A Casa da Música, designed by the Dutch architect Rem Koolhaas,

was inaugurated in 2005 and has been described as “one of the most important concert halls built in the past 100 years”. The building is entirely dedicated to music and not used for any other purpose. Its polygon shape make it unique as it appears to teeter on its base. There are two walls of glass and through one of these walls an open space is covered in tiles, designed to be visible from street level outside. Of course, Porto is famous for its azulejo-decorated buildings – most notably São Bento train station, Porto Cathedral, Igreja do Carmo and Capela das Armas. The latter is situated right beside Bolhão metro station, and the design reflects the azulejos on the Capela but in monochrome white – another design by Eduardo Souto de Moura. Blending a building into the landscape can be difficult but not if you already have a sizeable portion of the building jutting out of the earth already. This is the case of Casa do Penedo or The Stone House of Fafe, which is a dwelling sandwiched amongst four enormous boulders. It was originally constructed as a holiday home but is

The magnificent building is better known as the Bela Vista Hotel, in Praia da Rocha. It became a hotel in 1934 and is a curious reflection of its counterpart, the Palácio in Estoril, being a popular destination for members of Europe´s royal families and celebrities. The ubiquitous spies congregated here as well during the War. After all, the Algarve was not far from the action in Gibraltar, North Africa and the Mediterranean sea. Amongst the hotel’s many illustrious guests were the Finnish hero, statesman, Baron Carl Gustaf Emil Mannerheim; the Brazilian president and founder of Brasília, Juscelino Kubitschek de Oliveira; and long-time Cascais resident, the last king of Italy, Umberto II. The parallels between the glamorous lifestyles both in the south of the country and the prosperous north at the time are noteworthy but were also out of reach for most people. Fortunately today there is a robust wealth of talent in both design and architecture here in Portugal that is creating inspirational buildings and homes that rate amongst the finest in the world. An art form that can be enjoyed and appreciated by anyone and everyone.

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now a small museum and a growing visitor attraction. It is located in the northern district of Braga. Further towards the centre of the country near Idanha A Nova is the village of Monsanto where houses are also built into the rocks of the landscape. This amazing place was named ´The most Portuguese Village in Portugal’ in 1938, which is a bizarre claim as there is nowhere else to compare it to. Another curious location, made so because of its unique buildings, is the coastal village of Costa Nova near Aveiro. The colourful, candy-striped houses on the sea shore were originally built as shelters for the nets and equipment of the local fishermen who came to this ‘new coast’ in the late 1880s; eventually the huts expanded into accommodation for the fishermen and their families. Closer to home is a house that has a connection to fishing although it was built by a fishing industrialist with a canning empire and not a simple fisherman scraping a living out of the ocean. Vila da Nossa Senhora das Dores was built to serve as the family home for the business man António Júdice de Magalhães Barros in 1918 and situated on a wonderful cliff-top setting.

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Opposite page top: Torre de Belem, Lisbon; below left: Hotel Palácio, Estoril; right: the Discoveries, Belém. This page, above: Casa das Histórias Paula Rego, Cascais; below left: the Stone House of Fafe in the village of Monsanto, Braga; Casa Santa Maria, once a family home, now a museum, in Cascais

M A K I N G T H E O L D N E W AMONG THE ROLLING HILLS OF THE ALENTEJO, WHERE LAND M E E T S T H E S A LT Y AT L A N T I C , L I V E S A C O L L E C T I V E O F C R E AT I V E I N T E R G E N E R AT I O N A L A R T I S A N S , YO U N G A N D O L D , W H O A R E R E V I V I N G T H E A N C I E N T A R T O F B A S K E T R Y, A T R A D I T I O N T H AT L I V E S ON IN A TINY VILL AGE NAMED COZ

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EMMA CAMPUS

TRADITIONALISTS PLUS

In the family For Nuno, the mission is close to home. His great-grandfather, José Custódio Barreiro, was a farmer and a businessman who, in the late 1800s and early 1900s, earned his living by producing olive oil and wine, and his famous baskets. “José, my great-grandfather, sold many to places all over Portugal and delivered them with a cow and cart,” explains Nuno. “He employed lots of people, and after he died, his son – my great-uncle – took over the business. It was after his death that my great-aunt, who still oversees the production of baskets at our studios today, picked up the reins.” Nuno’s great-aunt and her team of just six remaining weavers are the wise and kinetic hands behind Toino Abel’s production. Each has worked for the company since its inception, creating the brand’s unique baskets using the same traditional techniques that his great-grandfather adopted all those years ago. “Every step of the process is done by hand,” he says. “The

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OW ONE of the country’s most wellknown artisanal fashion labels, one that has graced the pages of Vogue the world around, Toino Abel was founded in 2010 by Nuno Henriques (below). A Portuguese artist and designer, Nuno decided to return home to Portugal and his ancestral rural village from buzzing Berlin when he noticed that the last basketry artisans were rapidly dwindling, many at the end of their weathered lives and at risk of taking their skill with them. Determined to keep the craft alive for future generations, his idea was born out of a vision for a new spirit in basketry, a trade that had graced his own family’s hardworking hands for five generations. Making it his mission to try to save this craft, Nuno set about designing a contemporary collection of bags and ‘suitcases’ with a unique savoir-faire, working side by side with those who have woven reeds for decades.

TRADITIONALISTS PLUS

ALGARVE P L U S

Toino Abel bags, made from reeds and willow branches, have a distinct look that spells quality and originality

women cut the reed sticks into bunches of equal size, clean and dry them and clear their colour in a process of burning sulphur. Afterwards, they colour the remaining darker pieces with colour pigments and weave them on a handloom in a variety of patterns. The handles of the baskets are made of willow branches that are bound and fastened on to the baskets. The finished parts are then stitched together in the form of a bag.” It is a process that takes time and care, something that perhaps in our modern world, we take for granted. Do we tend to think that because modern life is less manual, less familial, less spiritual, and less rooted in the harshness of the wild, that traditions like basketry are at risk? The answer is often yes. But, thankfully, and in particular in Portugal, there are people like Nuno, and our ‘New Traditionalists’ that we met in our last two issues, that feel a pull from the past. And yet, instead of lamenting and constantly looking back, they are striving towards a future with great possibilities and pride for their people and place. “We, like many young people today in Portugal, feel an innate sense of responsibility for our history and heritage, and its balance with nature. For us, this is in the process of basketry. Our bags are based on timeless archetypes but for a modern woman,” Nuno explains. Achieving a unique blend of ‘artisanal modernity’, Nuno manages to expertly merge contemporary design and folk culture; a niche created through listening, learning from, and collaborating with the remaining weavers in his village, to save the traditional methods of basketry, whilst employing young and talented creatives to help design the final products.

Established artists and designers “Among our employees are a collection of fine and applied arts graduates and fashion designers. We all live and work

together within the same community where reed basketmaking has a long history. We are a small but incredibly passionate team between our twenties and forties, working with the very best crafters." Nuno and his team are keen to defend the integrity of transparency throughout the design process and the importance of value when it comes to respecting crafts like weaving and basketry. At a glance, Toino Abel baskets are not so dissimilar to those that you might find in a local market, but these are no ordinary keepsakes, not by any means. “We have learned this unique technique from the remaining weavers of Portugal. Gradually, we have refined its process and elevated the quality of every single step. Nowadays, we are proud to realise that our bags have unparalleled craftsmanship.” And, as with any expertly-crafted piece, it is what you see when you look closer that points to the difference: ethically sourced and natural materials, hard work, skill, knowledge and, most importantly, fair working conditions and wages that all equate to their value as beautiful and luxurious pieces to be treated as reminders of the care taken in their creation. “We produce every single step in-house,” says Nuno. “Because we are working alongside those who have honed their craft for decades, by investing in a basket bag by Toino Abel, you can rest assured that you keeping an ancient craft honest, alive and wholesome”. Take a look at the company's website at toinoabel.com and, like me, you will discover a new summer staple, one that will last us for years to come and remind us always of Portugal’s curious creativity and passionate personality – a personality that pulled every one of us to calling this individual and remarkable gem of a place, home. Emma Campus is the founder of Design Escapes Portugal, a platform that offers a curated insight into the unique and hidden hideaways, spaces, places, and people in Portugal through a more mindful and design-oriented lens. Follow her collection on Instagram @designescapesportugal.

Discover our mix of vintage chic and stylish new furniture, luxurious cushions and textiles, lamps and lighting, objet d’art and custom-made seating. Oliveira, Tavira. Let us inspire your home

www.byoliveira.com Shop: Rua 4 de Outubro, 24, Tavira 8800-362 (opposite Hotel Hotel Vila Galé) Call: 962 379 584 Email: decor@byoliveira.com @ oliveiradecor (online shopping available)

@oliveirafurniture

WINE PLUS

ITH THE WORST

of the pandemic hopefully behind us, let’s focus on some positives: This is AlgarvePLUS’s first birthday edition. Such a surreal passage of time, but one undeniable fact is that the team there has given us all something to look forward to every month – great articles, engaging writers, interesting topics, and all so stylishly put together. I am very pleased to play my small part in it all. Happy 1st birthday one and all – if that’s not reason to pop some corks, I don’t know what it is... Here are my top tips to fill those flutes:

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1. Borges Real Senhor Blanc de Noir (Dão) €13 Price-quality, one the best sparkling wines I’ve ever tried. This traditional method Blanc de Noir is 100% Touriga Nacional from the Dão with a delicate mousse, is persistent and zesty. Slightly floral aromas interlock with generous red berry fruit, and biscuity undertone. It has a generous mouthfeel, fresh acidity, and the good core primary fruit would have you believing it was Champagne as it tickles its way down your throat. The other great thing is that they do large format bottles, magnums, three-litre Jeroboams and sixlitre Methusalems. Large format fun!

2. Murganheira Rosé Bruto 2012 (Távora/Varosa) €12.50 What strikes me first about this Brut Rosé is its colour – a very distinct salmon pink hue – separated from Douro only by the watery divide of the Varosa river. This sparkling wine is as interesting as its colour is arresting. None of the often-present red fruit, this has much more stone fruit for me – peach, apricot, some underlying citrus fruit, blood orange and pink grapefruit. It was a real surprise for me and one I look forward to revisiting with food in front of me – I envisage cured meats, duck breast or dressed crab and crustaceans. To be continued for sure...

F I Z Z

F A N T A S T I C I N R E C E N T M O N T H S B I R T H D AY S A N D B I G D AY S H AV E H A D T O BE PUSHED TO ONE SIDE . WELL SPRING IS UPON US NOW AND NOT A MOMENT TOO SOON; I FOR ONE AM GOING TO G E T M Y M O N E Y ’ S W O R T H F R O M 2 0 2 1 A N D C E L E B R AT E

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JUSTIN O’HANLON

3. Vertice Rosé Bruto 2012 (Douro) €16 A distillation of summer through the medium of rosé. Although produced in Douro’s cooler climbs, this vintage Brut Rosé is all warmth and sunshine. Made from a blend of Touriga Franca, Gouveio and Malvasia Fina, it has a lovely red berry fruit profile; strawberries and cream is what springs to mind. It is not overly fruity though, as well-integrated elements provide a balanced blend of core fruit, fresh acidity, mineral backbone, supple mousse and mouthfeel. I’ll be revisiting this when the weather is finer.

5. Trabuca Grande Cuvee (Bairrada) €145 Currently taking its place among the most accredited Espumantes in Portugal, Trabuca’s Grand Cuvee is the rival of many if not all the Champagnes listed at the same price. Made from a blend of Baga, Chardonnay and Cercial, it is currently only released in magnum format, so go large or go home as they say, but I can assure you there’ll be no complaints getting through a litre and half of it. The only question is will that be enough! Trabuca sees a minimum of 48 months' cellaring time, with a further six months after disgorgement. It is complex and sophisticated, with a golden yellow hue, all honey and brioche and a persistent fine bubble mousse. This is

Made from 100% Baga, Bairrada’s main indigenous red grape varietal – Baga is known for its ageing potential and gastronomic affinity to food. It can be a little austere and is certainly a varietal that takes some getting used to. I have to say though, I love it. The primary fruit is always there – Baga is expressive – but I find that it, and this offering of it, lends itself to a more savoury, herbaceous style of wine. Even the minimal skin contact gives the wine a dark salmon pink; it is weighty and the bubble persistent and tingling. More orange peel and citrus zest than the fruit itself. A fabulous foil to grilled meats and fatty trimmings.

6. Vadio non-vintage Bruto €20 One of Portugal's only traditional-method wines that uses the solera system to blend back vintages into the current non-vintage offering – a much more complex assemblage rather than just blending cask to cask from older vintages. This technique is used widely by premium Champagne producers but almost

5. Vadio non-vintage Rosé Bruto (Bairrada) €20

unique to Vadio here in Portugal. Made from a blend of Bical, Baga and Cercial using up to 30% from back vintage wines or criaderas (nurseries), this allows for a much more constant style, more equilibrium within the wine, far more complexity as the winemaker is taking the best elements of all the vintages that have gone before to accentuate the latest harvest’s fruit.

Worth knowing When perusing and enthusing over wines of a sparkling disposition, here’s a few tips to assist in your position. Bairrada and Dão are the most iconic producers of premium Espumante wines; it is certainly where my preferences lie. Douro, Vinho Verde and other cooler climate regions are also producing some really excellent sparkling wines and certainly worth a try. On that note, one last toast. Let's raise a glass to 2020 being a thing of the past, to AlgarvePLUS and 12 issues past, to this and the next, and the next after that, no issue with more issues. Cheers.

T h e w i n e s l i s t e d h e r e a n d m a n y m o r e a r e a v a i l a b l e f o r n e x t d a y d e l i v e r y f r o m Tr i b u l u m a t H o m e

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genuinely a world class wine. Only magnums available.

Made from a blend of Bical, Maria Gomez and Arinto, this Blanc de Blanc offering from Sidonia Sousa typifies the region's fresh and acidity-driven elegance in both sparkling and white wines alike. Subtle citrus fruit lies beneath a beautiful biscuit aroma, and flinty minerality. The mousse is such that the wine seems to evaporate through effervescence, disappearing mysteriously from your palate. Quite remarkable and very tasty.

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4. Sidonia Sousa Special Cuvee (Bairrada) €12

Discovering

E V O R A IN THE MIDDLE OF THE ALENTEJO REGION, A LITTLE C I T Y, É V O R A , W I T H I T S N A R R O W S T R E E T S , T I N Y S H O P S , A N D U N I Q U E B U I L D I N G S , TA K E S V I S I T O R S F O R A WA L K TH RO U G H ALL E P OCH S TO E N J OY AN ADVE NTU R E WH E R E C U LT U R E S A N D R E L I G I O N S M I X T O G E T H E R

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ANNA ZIELANZY

DISCOVERING PLUS

Opposite page: The Convent of Santa Maria Coeli, also known as Cartuxa Convent. This page: The Pulpit of Igreja da Misericordis, an important baroque church

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With a new culture, new needs were born. The small OU CAN see Évora on a day trip, settlement was replaced with a striving town, surrounded though you won’t have time to do by defensive walls. Ancient spells and runes were replaced the town the justice it so well deserves; with grave business talk. Situated on the cross of crucial an overnight stay is perfect (the pousada routes, Évora started to blossom. is spectactular) or, if your diary won’t Religious life and a connection with gods, especially allow, you could divide your itinerary into gods of nature, were still important. The remains of a two and make a return day trip to complete Roman temple decorate the centre of Évora, its Corinthian the picture. Once there – and it is an columns proudly standing on the wobbly foundations. easy drive up the A2 of just a couple of hours – before Pillars destroyed by time, weather, and other cultures, still heading to Évora’s main town, it’s worth making a visit to hold proud to tell their story. The temple, Cromeleque dos Almendres. it is thought, was dedicated to Diana, the These circle of stones are a proud goddess of hunting and fertility. reminder of the time when Celtic tribes TOP SITES Pliny the Elder, a Roman author and settled in the area. They seemingly philosopher, described Évora in his grow from the soil, located in perfect There are many, but these opus magnum, Naturalis Historia, order and circular patterns. They might are absolute musts: calling the place Ebora Cerealis. One not make sense to people who look at  The Cathedral look at the panorama of Évora is them now, but back at that time, they  Igreja de São Franscico enough to know where the name came held power and were transmitters of and its bone chapel from. Eclectic buildings from different magic in which the Celts believed.  Evora Museum centuries are surrounded by a halo of The most remarkable sign of those  The Historic Centre flat Alentejan fields that in the summer times is enchanted in the name of the  Convento da Cartuxa light turn into gold. city, then Ebora Liberalitas Julia. The  The Megaliths If you look carefully, you might notice Celts, as people who were connected  Praca do Giraldo the foundations of the buildings and with nature and its rules, reach out to  The University walls that remember the Roman Empire, trees to find the perfect name for the  The Aqueduct though nowadays, they are covered with place where they stayed. It originates in  The public gardens a layer of Moorish structures. the word Ebora, which in Celtic means The years passed, and the new yew. Évora is supposed to be a place religion came. After quite a short where yew trees grew. Christian period, Évora was invaded by Visigoths. But Over time, pagan gods were mixed together. As the because of the regression in economy and culture, there Romans changed the name of the Greek gods, they also are very few artefacts that could remind us of those days. displaced Celtic beliefs with their own. The Romans After the years of decline, Moors conquered Évora, expanded their Empire, reaching further to include bringing it back to life. Religion changed again, and the Portugal, a land rich in natural resources.

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landscape of the city diametrically altered. The cobblestone streets, surrounded by white houses, carried a voice from the minarets that called the faithful to prayer. Évora changed its name to Yaburha and became a powerful fortress, which was conquered only in 1165.

Aristocratic Playground In 1166, the city became one of the most significant in Portugal. It experienced intense growth, financially and culturally. Aristocratic palaces, monuments, and churches filled the city, covering Arabic buildings and erasing previous eras from the collective consciousness. The royal families liked Evora, and often visited it; sometimes, the aristocracy came here to discuss important topics, sometimes just for pure pleasure. One of the most important buildings from this era is the emblematic Cathedral. Erected between 1186 and 1204, it stands on the highest spot in the city, demanding respect for its simple splendour. From Romanesque structures, gothic rosettes emerge; pinnacles point towards the sky, creating a spectacle of details that decorate the roof and towers of the temple. Golden baroque altars and mendelian details give a spark to the dark interior, with the simple walls supported by lancet bows. The bells of Évora cathedral often rung for royal weddings. It was also a place for other crucial events in which noble families of Portugal were involved. According to beliefs, Vasco da Gama and his fleet got a blessing in this church before heading into the ‘unknown world’. Similarly to other European countries, the Renaissance brought the new age to Portugal, where knowledge and art were some of the main virtues. Évora became the centre of humanistic ideas, where great minds could create and

confront. Painters, sculptors, composers, and writers found a shelter and home in this charming city. Unfortunately, the 16th century is also a dark time in Evora’s history when it was actively involved in the slave trade, with one of the biggest slave populations in Portugal. Having an important influence on humanities and science, the Jesuit order arrived and actively worked in Évora. The University that was founded by the fraternity became an important centre of intellectual exchange. When the monks were expelled from the country in the 16th century, Évora slowly changed from a central, important city into a small provincial town.

History reborn Visiting Évora is like uncovering successive events in a well-written mystery book. To discover some places, one must go through others that are more visible. Sometimes they’re out of chronological order, as history is mixed. Tangled in its secrets. In a city with such a rich past, it’s normal that one story overlaps another. A perfect example of this historical mix is the Igreja de São Francisco. A gothic church of the Franciscan order hides a unique gem in its basement. While visiting the Capela dos Ossos, a chapel where the walls are decorated with human skulls and bones, one can feel uncomfortable. Erected in the 17th century, the chapel reflects the religious idea of the century, where thoughts about mortality and salvation were interesting for many thinkers. Évora is a perfect place to learn about the Portuguese past. Yes, it is located a bit off the beaten path, but it is a calm and charming town, that is well worth visiting. Spend some time there. The tangle of streets encourage one to get lost, and just follow the flow. Peek in the backyard of an old house or visit an inconspicuous looking church and discover a whole new world.

This page, top left: The cloisters of the magnificent Évora Cathedral; right: Ruins of the Roman temple, the ‘Diana’ temple; above: The ancient ring of stones at Cromlech of the Almendres.

DISCOVERING PLUS

T R AV E L T I P S

TO GET THERE By car, take the A2 from its start at the Ferreiras junction on the A22. The train from Faro to Evora is a bit long-haul, taking over four hours. W H E R E T O S TAY Pousada Conventi de Evora, 5-star

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A minute’s walk from the Roman temple, this upscale hotel in a former monastery is a two-minute walk from the Cathedral of Évora and seven minutes from the Capela dos Ossos. Lots of little luxurious detailing make the thoroughly

contemporary old cells of the Lóios monks a special treat. pousadas.pt/pt/hotel/ pousada-evora 

The Noble House, 4-star

The oldest hotel in the city, the building has its origins in the 15th century and is a true example of an Alentejo noble lodge. Every room tells its own bit of history; the Garden Suite, built into the old romangothic city wall, is spectacular. Portuguese dishes are served in the Bistro restaurant. thenoblehouse.pt

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Vitoria Stone House, 4-stars

In need of a bit of spoiling? There an excellent spa here, with all the must-have facilities. The hotel gets its name from the traditional stone walls which add a special character. The bar overlooks the rooftops of Évora. vitoriastonehotel.com Valeriana Exclusive Guesthouse, 4-stars

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Previously home to a couple of pharmacists, this charming hotel is named after a medicinal plant which harnesses the power of relaxation. You can book in advance for a ‘slow-

cooking’ session, perfect for family fun. valerianaguesthouse.pt W H E R E T O E AT 

Amendoas Restaurant

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Botequim da Mouraria

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Degust’AR

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Restaurante O Templo

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Taberna Tipica Quarta Feira

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Triangular - Hamburgueria Artesanal

For menus, opening times, location, prices etc, please check online or call the individual restaurants.

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This page, left: The Bone chapel in São Francisco church and the chapel Charterhouse; below: A fine fish dish at Degust’AR. Bottom: left: The Noble House; right: Vitoria Stonehouse

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Enjoy restaurant-quality food in the comfort of your own home

tribulumalgarve.com

@tribulumalgarve

HEN I FIRST came here

in 1962, there was no dual carriageway for a dash south to the sunshine and beaches. Quality entertainment, museums, art, and book stores meant the inverse; a trip to Lisbon. The road was tortuous, taking almost five hours from Lagos, winding its way among cork-oak forests through Odemira, Cercal, Santiago do Cacém and Grandola. At last you would reach the long straight stretch to Alcácer do Sal where the branch road to Faro diverged. From there the choice was to queue to catch the ferry from Barreiro or race up to Vila Franca de Xira. The magnificent Ponte Salazar bridge was only just starting construction, and would not be completed until 1966, by which time there would be an airport in Faro. Both heralded the beginning of real and viable tourist access to the Algarve. Back then, it was a little-known hidden gem of golden sandy beaches overlooked by soaring russet cliffs. There were few hotels, no developments, no apartment blocks, no airport. Entertainment was centred around the monthly cattle markets, the yearly circus, Saturday dances in village halls and in the old casino in Praia da Rocha, with the lads on one side, girls on the other, mothers in black sitting gossiping with a wary eye on their daughters.

F O L LOW I N G A C A R E E R I N A R T, FILM AND TV AS FILM PRODUCER, ART DIRECTOR, SET DESIGNER, LO N G -T E R M A LG A R V E R E S I D E N T B J B O U LT E R N O W S P E N D S H E R T I M E C R E AT I N G S T R I K I N G A R T W O R K AND SCULPTURES. HER STORY IS T H E F I R S T W E A R E F E AT U R I N G F R O M A LY S O N S H E L D R A K E ’ S N E W A N T H O L O G Y, W H Y T H E A LG A R V E ?

Beach ball Not forgetting football. Many beaches were completely deserted, sea-bathing was not popular, and the sandy expanses were used for football. In wintertime, the few beach cafés were dismantled, and the rain and pounding Atlantic waves lashed the cliffs below our hotel, which crumbled, scattering great rocks onto the sand. To get to the nearby tiny fishing village of Benagil, one wound down a precarious track on foot, or as we did, on horseback. Alvor was a little fishing village with a great expanse of inland lake. There were no tower blocks back then. There were orchards of almond and fig trees along

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From the SWINGING S I X T I E S to the P R E S E N T D AY

NEW LIFE PLUS

the cliff edge all the way from Praia da Rocha. We would walk to Praia dos Três Irmãos picking figs to eat and getting scolded by a farmer wielding an old rifle. The Penina hotel and golf course of today was a saltwater wetland. The EN125 main road was then a narrow lane. You would see donkey carts ambling along, and a couple walking shaded by the ubiquitous black umbrella. Faro, the capital of the Algarve, was a twohour drive away. It was the place one went to for any paperwork. If there were other places worth a visit on the way, I never knew of them. Beyond Faro was a long, narrow road to a car-ferry river crossing to Spain, a journey only made to renew the three-month visas that were inspected regularly by the P.I.D.E. the secret police. Our little family-run pension was popular with those Portuguese families from Lisbon and the north with relatives in the Algarve, touring couples from all over Europe, and brave young adventurers. There were write-ups in guidebooks, such as this quote from Vista Portugal: “The Pensão Solar Penguim

Above left, clockwise: Pensão Pinguim and Hotel Bela Vista, 1960s; Praia da Rocha beach from the Pinguim; Ferragudo Castle, 1962; the beach from Fortaleza, 1962

There were orchards of almond and fig trees along the cliff edge. We would walk to Praia dos Três Irmãos picking figs and getting scolded by a farmer wielding an old rifle.

is a tiny, civilised British island in the midst of bogus Portuguese Grand Hotels, and it comes as a surprise to read many famous names in its visitors’ book.” Unlike the other two or three hotels in Praia da Rocha, the Solar Penguin was not at all bogus, grand or smart, but casual and welcoming, therefore popular, and not only with British travellers. Serving two proper meals a day, which was required for the operating licence; the menu consisted of soup, fish, a main meat course, and a sweet with wine and coffee. The cosy bar overlooking the beach attracted locals and foreigners alike. My father insisted the front door remained open at all times to welcome the weary traveller. Every guest had to be registered with the P.I.D.E. My mother naively assumed couples with different surnames had not yet been issued with new passports and were on their honeymoon. Mother took the hotel laundry to be hand-washed in the river on the Monchique road and there spread out to dry over cistus bushes, where now the A22 motorway roars overhead. Living in the Algarve was healthy. Pre-wrapped foods were unheard of. There was no Piri-piri chicken in Monchique as yet, where delicious cured hams hung dripping from the café rafters. Fruit and vegetables arrived daily in carts from the hortas to the Portimão marketplace, on what is now the Alameda in the centre of town. Butchers surrounded the market, offering every cut of pork imaginable. Donkeys and mules chatted nose to nose in stables behind the market. As the traineiras – the classic Portuguese coastal fishing boats – were unloaded dockside in Portimão, sardines were tossed up in baskets. They were packed in boxes of grated ice to go to one of the 21 canning factories surrounding the harbour, or trundled up in handcarts

to the Praça do Peixe, where the fish was plentiful and cheap. Small children collected those sardines that fell from the baskets, to be grilled over tiny charcoal burners on the doorstep, then eaten wrapped in a slice of bread. A portion was always offered generously to a passer-by who stopped for a chat. That is most of what I remember before leaving for Hong Kong in the autumn of 1966. When I returned in the spring of 1972, much had changed. Faro airport had opened, and the tourism industry blossomed with charter flights. Holidaymakers appeared in large groups and resorts were built to accommodate them. Others arrived to make a permanent or seasonal home in the Algarve. People coming from other newly independent African countries; people running from their own problems to this little ‘semi third-world country’; people seeking adventure, a challenge, a new way of life, and retirees looking for warmth in the winter months. The glorious wilderness of the Algarve, with its small farms and derelict cottages, was being sold up and estate agents were moving in. White villas started appearing dotted about the countryside. Before, a trip to the interior driving on bare murram and rarely-tarred roads, revealed tiny homesteads with a solitary olive or palm tree among scattered figs and almonds. A farmer would stop and stare as one drove by. That was the biggest difference to the area, the visual change to the landscape.

Above left, clockwise: The Pensão Pinguim atop the cliffs, 1966; Portimão market in the 1970s; Ferragudo castle and marina, from Praia da Rocha

music venues, and entertainment cater for every taste. Extending out into the countryside around each town now is a well-to-do, modern middle-class suburb, housing the influx of company owners and employees. Some smaller towns and villages have not changed quite as much. For the past 30 years, I have lived contentedly in a very small town on a hilltop with a beautiful listed heritage church. My mother asked me to build her a house nearby, and she moved here from Praia da Rocha 13 years ago. At 102 years old, she has lived in the Algarve longer than any foreigner that I know of. The young couples who relocated to the new bairro built in the eighties are now grandparents. Their children refurbished and moved into old houses in the original village when their grandparents died. They stay because work abounds in the resorts, the amenities services, and the building trade. The local junior school has a waiting list. The streets are cleaned, and the garbage is collected daily. It is a closely-knit society of old feuds and friendships. For them, very little changes.

TELLING IT LIKE IT IS

Yo u c a n f i n d o u t m o r e a b o u t B J B o u l t e r ’ s

A n d n o w… Today we are living in a very different Algarve. Fast highways, shopping malls, vast hypermarkets, liveried cars, dapper salespeople, magnificent holiday resorts, cheap high-rise apartments, a new airport, and a worldclass Formula One autodromo. Before Covid, festivals,

work at b j b o u l t e r. c o m Alyson Sheldrake’s for thcoming anthology Why the Algar ve? Is featured at alysonsheldrake.com

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NEW LIFE PLUS

IMAGES PLUS

L A R G E R T H A N L I F E ZAMBIA-BORN SCULPTOR TOIN ADAMS IS KNOWN FOR HER E X T R A O R D I N A R Y M E TA L W O R K S , VA S T P I E C E S T H AT C H A L L E N G E T H E SENSES AND DEFY CONVENTION. SHE IS A FORCE TO BE RECKONED W I T H A N D A TA L E N T T H AT COMMANDS RESPECT

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SUSI ROGOL-GOODKIND

When did you discover your particular passion? Who was your mentor? At the experimental art school I had a sculpture teacher called Mr Muller. He was my mentor. He allowed me to make a life-size figure for my A-levels. When I met my dad for the second time, he was building a 40ft steel yacht. I loved the smell of cut steel. I was involved in renovating old buildings in my early twenties and an old welder noticed my interest and asked if I wanted to try my hand at welding. He taught me the essentials in five minutes; the rest took 20 years of practice. The trick is to listen and hear the sound of bacon frying in a pan. When you hear that you have a good weld. Twiddle the knobs until you get that sizzle.

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Did you come from an artistic family? My mother was a journalist during the war (we lived in Zimbabwe). I didn’t know my father, also a journalist, until much later. We had ancient relatives in the Orkneys who were wood carvers and the painter John Piper was an uncle. There was a relative who was the second engineer working on Iron Bridge Gorge and another, an architect, who designed the port of Buenos Aires. So we have some practicality, too, in the family genes.

Opposite page: Far left: 'I’m looking for the face I had when the world was made,' ultimately cast in resin, Uttarayan Sculpture park, near Baroda in Gujarat, India. Main picture: Dolphins, in the Hilton Cabo Verde. This page below: The Green Man at the Custard Factory, Birmingham

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What did you study and where? I went to tiny bush schools in Africa in the middle of nowhere. Learned maths by measuring the speed of a river and the depth; skinned pythons; got chased by rhino. Later, at an experimental art school, I discovered anatomy, perspective drawing, and sculpture.

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What are you working on now? Last year, with the loss of some incredible projects I had lined up in London and Brazil, I decided to focus on getting work here. I formalised an arts collective I had founded with three girlfriends in 2009. It’s called The Imaginary Beings and we staged a big event here in Loulé in 2013. Now we are a formal Associação, we can apply for commissions – as an individual here an artist has little or no rights but as a collective we are eligible for substantial funding. Now, with a group of local Portuguese artists, we are developing some incredible ideas for monumental sculptures around the Algarve.

This page, above: Toin and 'Phoenix', in collaboration with Quinta Art Collective; below: The clay original of 'Garuda' before bronze casting, Uttarayan Sculpture park, India

When did you first come to the Algarve? I came to Portugal in July 2002 when my daughter was three weeks old; I didn’t want to bring her up in the crack hell of Hackney, as it was then, where I had my studio. I was on my way to Granada in Spain and I stopped here on the way to see my mum and Portuguese step-dad. It really reminded me of Africa, so I stayed. How did you get yourself established here? I’m not established here. I don’t have many contacts at all. All my work has been elsewhere in the world. When my daughter, Ruby, was older, I started travelling a lot for work – to China, Brazil, the US and Britain mainly. I’m only now starting to get organised here. When the Conrad Algarve opened, I got a team together and we produced artwork for the hotel. And I created 30 two-metre-tall sculptures in one month for Câmara de Albufeira – for the presépio (navity scene) in Guia.

Is this connected to the Quinta Art Collective? The Quinta Art Collective started in 2020 – five women, five friends, five artists. Whatever I do with the Imaginary Beings, the Collective will be a part of that too because I am a part of them. We five – Jane Rodenburg, Tracy Carson, Andrea Bird, Jessica Dunn and I – are all mates and all artists so it just made sense. We started in March or April last year and since then we’ve had two exhibitions, launched a website, featured on Instagram and Facebook, appeared in the press and have two exhibitions to come. It’s truly astonishing. I am the least helpful member of the collective as I have a fragile relationship with time and space and location. The others are very patient and forgiving with me. Do you work only on special commissions? Right now I’m working on a few private commissions and a public commission – a memorial in Faro to the Portuguese Fishermen in the Second World War. I always want to make things just for sale but I never have time... I’m always having to do the things that pay the bills. Size does matter – what is the largest piece you have done and where is it? Twelve meters as one complete object is the Green Man at the Custard Factory in Birmingham. And a school of forged stainless-steel dolphins on a 30m tall wall of water in the lobby of the Hilton Cabo Verde Sal.

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Do you start with a fixed idea and a drawing, or do works evolve as you go? I get a flash of a vision and spend my entire time failing to capture the unadulterated beauty I briefly glimpsed! Drawing helps, but usually the drawings are about the practical structural elements. What about materials, what are your favourites? Steel, glass, clay, bronze, wood, stone… I am pretty much in love with them all. And then there is the environment – dead birds, old farm equipment and more. Your dream commission – what would it be… and from whom? I had three dream commissions but they got snatched away from me because of Covid-19: a 10m tall Phoenix made in rocks and steel, working with favela communities all over Rio; an interactive audiovisual public sculpture made with glass and steel using biofeedback and cymatics, working with 3,000 people in an underprivileged part of London; and a series of public murals, working with a small group of kids as part of a prison outreach programme.

Price – a guideline for someone who wants, say, a statement piece in their grounds? Depending entirely on size and materials I’d say between €8,000 and €20,000. Whose work do you most admire? Auguste Rodin, Javier Marin and Richard Serra. What’s the longest a piece has taken you? Durer’s Rhino – my whole working life so far – started in the late 1980s and so far only the frame is built. Otherwise, pretty much all jobs take around three to four months regardless of size. It’s weird but true. Do clients come to you with an idea of what they want? Often they do… and then I try to seduce them into doing what I want but only if it turns out to be what they want, too. Where can one see your work? insta: @toinadams, fb: ToinAdams Sculptor, website: toinadams.com. Or Aderita gallery Artspace in vale do Lobo.

i m a g i n a r y b e i n g s . o r g / q u i n t a a r t c o l l e c t i ve . c o m / T: +3 5 1 9 6 8 8 4 4 6 6 9

Above: Looking up to the amazing tumbling figures that form 'The Deluge' at Zellig, Digbeth, Birmingham, a commercial building for creative industries

TASTE PLUS

Bridget Jones’s pan-fried salmon with pine nut salsa A G L O R I O U S , D E A D S I M P L E D I S H F R O M S U P E R - C H E F YO TA M O T TO L E N G H I ’ S M E N U O F H A S S L E - F R E E , F L AVO U R - PAC K E D FEASTS . THIS ONE MOVES THE HUMBLE SALMON FILLET INTO A S TA R R I N G R O L E AT T H E D I N N E R TA B L E

SERVES FOUR

RECIPE

5 Arrange the salmon on four plates and spoon over the salsa. If you have any celery leaves reserved, scatter these on top.

M ET HOD 1 Cover the currants with boiling water and set aside to soak for 20 minutes while you prep the salmon and make the salsa. 2 Mix the salmon with 2 teaspoons of oil, 3 teaspoon of salt and a good grind of pepper. Set aside while you make the salsa. 3 Put 75ml of olive oil into a large sauté pan and place on a high heat. Add the celery and pine nuts and fry for 4–5 minutes, stirring frequently, until the nuts begin to brown (don’t take your eyes off them,

WHY THE NAME... Says the man himself: “This is the dish Patrick Dempsey’s character tells Renée Zellweger’s Bridget Jones that he would have brought her on their imaginary second date in Bridget Jones’s Baby. ‘From Ottolenghi,’ says Dempsey, ‘delicious and healthy.’ And easy, we might add! What sounded like a bit of product placement on our part was in fact no such thing. The recipe didn’t even exist on our menu, so this is a retrospective acknowledgement.”

OTTOLENGI SIMPLE (EBURY PRESS) LIVES UP TO ITS TITLE AND SERVES UP 130 RECIPES FOR THOSE WHO ARE SHORT OF TIME BUT WANT TO IMPRESS FAMILY AND FRIENDS. ORDER IT ONLINE FROM FNAC

4 Put the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil into a large frying pan and place on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add the salmon fillets, skin side down, and fry for 3 minutes, until the skin is crisp. Reduce the heat to medium, then flip the fillets over and continue to fry for 2–4 minutes (depending on how much you like the salmon cooked). Remove from the pan and set aside.

100g currants 4 salmon fillets, 500g, skin on and pin-boned 100ml olive oil 4 celery sticks, cut into 1cm dice (180g), leaves removed but kept for garnish 30g pine nuts, roughly chopped 40g capers, plus 2tbsp of their brine 40g large green olives (that’s about eight), pitted and cut into 1cm dice 1 good pinch of saffron threads (¼ tsp), mixed with 1tbsp hot water 20g parsley, roughly chopped 1 lemon – finely grate the zest to get 1tsp, then juice to get 1tsp Salt and black pepper

as they can easily burn). Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the capers and their brine, the olives, saffron and its water and a pinch of salt. Drain the currants and add these, along with the parsley, lemon zest and juice. Set aside.

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of th e month ...

I NGR E DI E N TS

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ORIGINALITY PLUS

C R E AT I N G A P I C T U R E S H E W E AV E S T O G E T H E R C O L O U R F U L U P C Y C L E D W O O L YA R N S , A N C E S T R A L T E C H N I Q U E S A N D M E M O R I E S E V O C AT I V E O F T H E A L G A R V I A N S H O R E S I N T O U N D E R WAT E R L A N D S C A P E S . S H E I S VA N E S S A B A R R AG ÃO , A P O R T U G U E S E T E X T I L E A R T I S T W H O RETURNED TO HER HOMETOWN OF ALBUFEIRA IN 2020

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ORN AND raised by the sandy shores of Albufeira, it comes as no surprise that Vanessa Barragão is inspired by nature and her love of coral reefs, one of the most diverse ecosystems in the world. For her, the ocean holds a certain attraction – the upwelling of deep and colder ocean currents – and an inherent fear – due to its enormity. Childhood passions of building sandcastles to an obsession with drawing and crocheting, paved the path to pursue a degree in Fashion Design and hence a move to Lisbon when she was 18. The following six years were instrumental for her artistic growth. In hindsight this was the turning point where she became more conscious of the complexities of a sustainable and eco-friendly lifestyle. This self-realisation allowed exploration in textiles and traditional handicrafts, and prompted a move to Porto in 2016, home to Portugal’s textile industry. Working as a textile designer, within the walls of artisanal rug factory – Tapetes Beiriz – experienced hands gave her artistic inputs, ideas and know-how on the use of materials, all whilet focusing on her connection to the ocean. Balancing time between the factory and individual textile projects took precedence during her first three years in Porto. Finally, she opened her own studio in downtown Porto focusing entirely on individual designs. Nevertheless, in 2020, she decided to bring her art and studio to the place that most influences her creations – Albufeira – where she also incorporated the family into the business.

ORIGINALITY PLUS

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Manifesto – recycling in textile art The trifecta of tradition, sustainability and environmental issues create the manifesto underlying Vanessa’s expressive tapestries. The production of raw materials, weaving and dyeing requires enormous amounts of water and chemicals in parallel with industrial machinery which likewise has a toxic impact on our environmental footprint. Add in massive amounts of textile waste and without a doubt, we understand the harm to our planet. With oceans absorbing up to 90% of atmospheric pollution and as a consequence of climate change, coral reefs today are gradually weakening and dying. Coral bleaching is the SOS signal for these marine ecosystems, which in healthy conditions should exhibit a rainbow of rich, vibrant hues. Vanessa’s preoccupation with the degradation and pollution of our planet stresses the need for upcycling deadstock from tapestry factories and discarded wool from sheep, together with eco-conscious production methods. She uses traditional handcrafting techniques – latch hooking, hand-tufting, crocheting and embroidery. Her premise is based on helping the planet heal.

– grandparents, mother and sibilings. Those same fingers that taught her to knit-one, purl-one as a child, are still nimbly active. The women focus on crochet, her grandfather with the tools and nuances of running a business and her sister – allround right-hand. She mentions enthusiastically how proud her grandparents are to participate in the creation of her sculptural textile art – woollen rugs, tapestries and wall-hangings. Her most challenging piece so far was the remarkable Botanical Tapestry, a six metre collaboration between London’s Heathrow Airport and Kew Gardens. The largest artwork she has ever created, this piece took more than 520 hours to weave and conceptualises the world’s continents and oceans in Barragão-esque style – 3D crocheted coral reefs, low-pile weaves and shaggy fringing - in a massive 42kg of colourful upcycled wool and 8kg of recycled jute and cotton. When next in Heathrow’s Terminal 2 departure area, spend a few moments admiring this installation and find the six plants and flowers which represent Kew Gardens natural conservation work. Perhaps ponder her mantra that the world belongs to everyone and we have to preserve it. 2020 was a productive year as she worked on the following series – Aurora, Nostalgia, Geri Coral and Spiralis. Her Aurora Tapestry is a message of hope, a change for the better, living as a community and a sign of life itself. Nostalgia, in soft muted beige tones, pistachio and pastels represents her life as she returns home. Composed of two interconnected pieces, she speaks to the past and its influence on her future perspective. The Geri Coral Tapestry typifies vibrant colours representing strength, yet surrounded by bleached coral. A metaphor of our lives in 2020 – a new beginning after unprecedented struggles. Spiralis, in complex green and brown earth shades, personifies swirls of energy and experiential thought processes that only life can provide. All her pieces are 100% handcrafted, curated with recycled wool and using traditional techniques. At her studio in Albufeira, we witnessed works in progress and had the desire to run our fingers through her soft wool creations. We marvelled at walls of yarn, beautifully stacked and colour-coded so that they too were comparable to her tapestries. We asked about workshops and future plans. At the present time, no workshops are on the horizon as she has a full agenda through 2022. With several invitations and partnerships with other artists together with developing state-of-the-art techniques and new sustainable materials, Vanessa is wholly focused on her work. In spite of that, and thinking ahead, she would someday love to design a street art installation, yet needs to find a practical way to preserve her materials outdoors. We’re excited to hear that she envisions incorporating the local community in the fabrication of her works. Surrounded by plants in wicker baskets and beautifully crafted furniture, Vanessa’s studio is a place of creativity, that fits organically with her work and personality. Vanessa, welcome back home to the Algarve...

The trifecta of tradition, sustainability and environmental issues create the manifesto underlying Vanessa’s expressive tapestries.

Artwork recipe Whether a private customer, designer or artist, Studio Vanessa Barragão works closely with her clients to achieve their personalised commission. Clients’ ideas and Vanessa’s sketches are the initial ingredients for the desired outcome. As sketches evolve organically, so do the tapestries, while demonstrating Vanessa’s underlying vision and mantra of her work. At the start, the only surety is colour choices. Commissions start at a minimum of 1m x 1m with price dependent on materials and time allocated. Weaving with passion, your unique ideas are comfortably left in Vanessa’s experienced hands. Today, three generations work together

E: vanessabarragao.info@gmail.com / vanessabarragao.com

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T: +351 289 397 165 E: info@cape-gardens.com W: cape-gardens.com

ALGARVE P L U S

COLLECTIONS PLUS

T H E L I G H T E S T T O U C H W I T H C O N S U M M AT E A R T I S T I C S K I L L , L I S P E T E R S E N C AT C H E S T H E T R A N S I E N T M O V E M E N T O F D E L I C AT E F I G U R E S . C A R E F U L O B S E R VAT I O N L I E S B E H I N D H E R S E E M I N G LY S P O N TA N E O U S R E S U LT S

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C A R O LY N K A I N

GALERIA CÔRTE- REAL is signposted from Boliqueime, Ferreiras and Paderne O P E N : T H U R S D AY t o S U N D AY, 1 1 A M - 5 P M

T: 9 1 2 7 3 7 7 6 2 / c o r t e r e a l a r t e . c o m

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Although her images are modern, the painting techniques Lis Petersen employs are centuries old. She makes her paint from pure pigments, egg yolk and linseed oil, and finally impregnates the linen canvas with handmade beeswax paste to add a beautiful matt satin finish. Producing paintings that are individual and make a statement, her style is immediately recognisable and she has acquired a following of serious private art collectors. She has worked alongside interior designers in the Algarve to provide paintings for prestigious hotels and restaurants. She is also represented by galleries in Scandinavia and has exhibited widely in Germany, as well as in Lisbon and Porto. An exhibition of Lis Petersen’s latest paintings is on display at Galeria Côrte-Real in Paderne.

ALGARVE P L U S

HEN LIS PETERSEN first arrived in the Algarve from Norway she was a post-graduate student, and the recipient of a small grant provided to help her to develop her artistic studies. She had every intention of returning home to Bergen in due course but then chose to remain here instead and went on to become one of the Algarve’s most celebrated artists. Depicting contemporary scenes of local life, her paintings are compositions of feathery brushstrokes and her animated figures – expressionist in style – have life and vitality that convey a sense of joyful abandon.

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F A L A P O R T U G U E S E E VE RYO N E ’ S LE AR N I N G S T Y LE , G OAL S AN D R E A SO N S FO R LE AR N I N G A NEW L ANGUAGE ARE DIFFERENT AND THE BEST ADVICE IS TO TRY A BIT O F E V E R Y T H I N G A N D T O F I N D W H AT W O R K S B E S T F O R YO U A N D , M O S T I M P O R TA N T LY, W H AT K E E P S Y O U M O T I VAT E D . B O A S O R T E A T O D O S !

S SOON AS my husband and I decided to

move our family to the Algarve two years ago, I was determined that I would learn Portuguese out of respect for the culture and the people. In reality though – and this always sounds like an excuse – it is not easy. To learn a language, and learn it quickly, it helps if you are fully immersed in it. There are parts of the Algarve where this is the case but in many of the coastal and touristy areas, the local people are often fluent in many languages and happy to use them. While this is all part of the Algarve’s welcoming charm and appeal to visitors, it makes

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S TAC E Y B A R T L E T T

learning, and becoming confident in using the language every day, a challenge. Without being forced to use Portuguese to get by, those who want to learn need to find the motivation elsewhere. With two children at Portuguese school, I am reminded of the importance of learning the language often through interactions with teachers and helping my daughter with her homework. With this in mind, I am actively learning the language through a variety of means; as well as watching TV and listening to local radio, I have been working my way through a number of other resources. There is a vast array of choices out there and this is just a small selection of what is available.

LEARNING PLUS

Memrise is a popular app for learning European Portuguese. It follows a classic flash card format to learn vocabulary by repeating words and phrases using different methods. The ‘Learn with Locals’ part of the course is particularly useful as you try to decipher what native speakers are saying at a usual speaking pace. One downside is that it does not explain the grammar and so you end up learning verb conjugations parrot fashion

without ever really understanding their meaning so it can be difficult to use them correctly in other situations. There is also a website – memrise.com – where you can follow other users, join groups and discussions and see membergenerated content. Memrise is good for those who want an app that they can dip into every now and then, learn a few words and become accustomed to listening to native speakers talking. Alone, the app will not help you to easily hold a conversation, but it will increase your vocabulary and general understanding. The app is available to download for free. Most of the content is free but there is a premium option with additional content which you may find useful once you have exhausted the free content. Premium access costs around €50 for the year.

My score: 6/10

PORTUGUESE SHORT STORIES

To try to improve my listening skill, I downloaded Portuguese Short Stories - 9 Simple and Captivating Stories for Effective Portuguese Learning for Beginners. Each paragraph is read in Portuguese and then English and at the end of each story is a summary of vocabulary and a Q&A session. As the story content is quite child-like, it means that I can play the audio book while in the car with my children (my daughter particularly likes the story about the evil princesses!). Despite being marketed for beginners, the vocabulary used can be quite complicated and descriptive and therefore I am not sure that it is suitable for complete beginners. The dialogue between characters is often more simple and the translations do make it easier to follow and understand. This is just one of many audio books available, but

you need to select carefully as I have found several use the Brazilian dialect despite having the flag of Portugal on the cover. I downloaded this book using Audible which is available as an app and costs £7.99 per month. Audible offers a 30-day free trial which includes one audio book and the book is yours to keep even if you decide to cancel after the trial.

My score: 5/10

MICHEL THOMAS TOTAL PORTUGUESE

I downloaded the foundation and intermediate courses onto my phone so that I can listen in the car and while out and about. It is not particularly exciting to listen to as it is extremely methodical, the concept being that you are the third of three students in a class with a teacher and a native Portuguese speaker. One of the criticisms of this approach is that, especially with the foundation course, the students make a lot of

mistakes and this can be quite time consuming. It is heavily grammarfocused and there are many rules and mnemonics that the teacher shares which, at times, I found myself struggling to understand, let alone memorise. However, I have now listened to the course many times over and have realised that some of the mnemonics have stuck as I find myself repeating them in my head. This course is good for

those who really want to get to grips with the language and its grammar rules and tenses. If you just want to learn day-to-day conversation and some vocabulary, though, there are more entertaining methods. Bought new, the course costs €130; however there are plenty of second-hand/ online copies available if you shop around.

My score: 7/10

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MEMRISE APP

ALGARVE P L U S

LEARNING PLUS

ALGARVE P L U S

PORTUGUESE GOVERNMENT COURSE

Operating across the country, the Portuguese Government offers a course for foreigners for a ridiculously small sign-up fee and the cost of a textbook or two. I undertook the A1+A2 beginners level course in 2019/2020. My lessons took place two evenings a week and lasted between two and three hours each time so it was quite a big commitment. Following the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages (CEFR), the lessons have set modules and an exam at the end to test comprehension and enable students to move onto the B1 + B2 level. From the very first lesson, I realised that the ability of the students varied hugely. I would often sit in the classroom and let a conversation about the cultural differences between

everyone’s countries of origin go over my head with no clue as to what was being said. The teacher spoke hardly any English during the classes, so it was easy to get lost and I think this put some people off as a few did not continue. I generally enjoyed it though, I met some nice people and by the end of the course I knew that I had improved greatly through the teaching, the homework, and from being immersed in Portuguese conversation for six hours a week. I am not sure what is happening with these courses currently with school closures, but they are worth investigating when there’s an all-clear if you can commit the time and would like to meet some new people.

PORTUGUESE LAB

I first discovered Portuguese Lab on YouTube where there are many free videos to assist with learning at different levels. The videos are split into various skills and are clear and easy to follow. Each video is a stand-alone lesson so you can pick and choose depending on the areas that you are particularly interested in. Recently uploaded are the Learn Portuguese with Cristiano Ronaldo videos in which he is being interviewed by the President of Portugal. You watch a clip of the interview, then watch it again with Portuguese subtitles before it is analysed line by line by the teacher and played again. I found this a really good way to practise listening skills and comprehension and it was

nice to be able to engage with something a bit more ‘real life’. In addition to YouTube, there is also a free podcast with the lessons on Spotify and iTunes, which is useful when you are on the go. Portuguese Lab also offers an ‘Academy’ for US$35 per month. With this you have access to additional content and a more structured approach that again corresponds with the Common European Framework of Reference for Languages which is used by language schools. Portuguese Lab is a good (mostly free) resource covering vocabulary, grammar and real-life dialogue at a variety of levels.

My score: 7/10

My score: 6/10

ONE-TO-ONE 0NLINE CLASSES

It can be hard to motivate yourself to set time aside for learning and so there is often no substitute for having someone who will make you work and make you concentrate. Early last year, I was looking for lessons in person but when this was no longer possible because of lockdown, online lessons were the next best option. There are a huge number

of online teachers available, many of whom offer free trials so that you can choose the one whose style suits you best. A good teacher will tailor lessons to your individual goals and learning preferences rather than just offer an off-the-shelf lesson. For me, online lessons have been invaluable. Having one-on-one time with a teacher who pushes me to

speak in Portuguese is the missing piece in the puzzle that I had been struggling to find elsewhere. I know that my confidence has grown because of it and, although I still have a long way to go, I feel more confident when faced with situations where I must communicate verbally. Private lessons are obviously more expensive than other options, but I

believe they are worth the investment as nothing else motivates me to improve in quite the same way. Also, apps and websites do not set homework and expect me do it. Lessons vary in price but are usually around €20 per hour for a one-off session or less if bought as a block.

My score: 9/10

Corte-Real

Gallery Roman Markov

Praia dos Pescadores, Albufeira

TM: 912 737 762 . Gallery Open Thurs. Fri. Sat. Sun. 11am - 5pm Email: algarvegallery@gmail.com - www.corterealarte.com Join us!

From the village of Paderne or Boliqueime, follow signs ‘Galeria’

Find us on Google Maps & Waze GPS: 37.170100,-8.18205 Follow us on Instagram and discover new work on a regular basis.

of the month

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PROPERTY

WOW FACTOR LIVING CURRENTLY UNDER CONSTRUCTION , THIS SUPERB STATEMENT OF CONTEMPOR ARY MINIMALISM AND ARCHITECTUR AL EXCELLENCE ALSO BOASTS AN EXCEPTIONAL SET TING AND SURROUNDING VIEWS In the final stages of development now and ready to become your new home by summer 2021  Four spacious bedrooms and four bathrooms

aerothermal heat pump for air conditioning and heating

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Magnificent views across the golf course and out to the sparkling ocean

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Facade and external walls and ceiling with ecological thermal insulation

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Thermal energy production through a high-efficiency

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Underfloor heating system with autonomous control in each room

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Internal and external flooring with the gleam of natural marble stone

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Motorised roller blinds plus blackout curtain fabric

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Plot size: 2,202m2

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Construction: 484m2

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Price: €3,400,000

T O V I E W : T: +3 5 1 2 8 9 3 0 1 2 9 4 / E : i n f o @ y e l l o w h o m e s . c o m / W : y e l l o w h o m e s . c o m

Integrated into the natural amphitheatre of the Bay of Lagos in the Western Algarve, an outstanding property that brings together adventurous modern design, superlative build, and precious materials

PROPERTY PLUS

BEDROOMS

Four carefullyplanned bedrooms and luxurious bathrooms

GOLF

Walking distance to the clubhouse and the beach

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Two large covered parking spaces, each 25m2

POOL

ALGARVE P L U S

Private pool that highlights the design of the property

Vilamoura Office EN125 Benfarras Boliqueime 8100-068 Boliqueime T: +351 289 301 294 Tavira Office Rua Dr. Jose Padinha 178 8800-354 Tavira T: +351 281 320 281 AMI: 6232

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the awning specialist

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READS PLUS

FULLY

booked

By Carl Chinn Publisher: John Blake Publishing Genre: Recent history

By Diana Henry Publisher: Mitchell Beazley Genre: Cookery

This incredible book separates the facts from the fiction of the true story behind the bloody history of the Peaky Blinders we are familiar with from the popular TV series and the battle for control of the protection rackets of the racecourses in the 1920s between Billy Kimber and the Sabini Gang from London. I was slightly disappointed to learn the truth about the Shelby family, which wasn’t quite as romantic as portrayed in the TV series,but the real story is far more blood curdling and violent. All the characters I was expecting to find did appear but just in different time lines. After the First World War, the generation of men who returned from the fighting had changed. They had given their all and saw the world in a different light. They realised that money gave them power over their own destiny and were not prepared to accept a harsh and unequal life anymore. They could, and would, create their own world where they were the kings.

I must admit to being a bit of a bung-itall-together-and-see-what-happens kind of cook, which is why this really simple cook book suits lazy cooks like me. Saying that, some of the recipes are dinner party spectacular feats of incredulity you could pass off as having slaved away for three weeks in their creation. And, there are lots of quick recipes – mix and chuck it into the oven for the magic to happen and bingo! I am so impressed with this book and have ordered three as presents. I love the simplicity, the innovative ingredients that are not too flash and requiring that an order be placed at Fortnum & Mason just to cook supper on a Wednesday when Frank and Joan are coming over to watch a 30-year-old Bond repeat. It’s a brilliant cookbook and you will be as delighted as me if you, too, tend to suffer from lazyitis.

ALGARVE PLUS

FROM THE OVEN TO THE TABLE: SIMPLE DISHES THAT LOOK AFTER THEMSELVES

Book of the month

THE REAL PEAKY BLINDERS: THE TRUE HISTORY OF BIRMINGHAM’S MOST NOTORIOUS GANGS

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I F YO U H AV E E V E R W O N D E R E D W H Y DAW N A N N A N D A L E ’ S M O N T H LY C H O I C E O F R E A D S A LW AY S H A V E A F O U R – B U T M O R E T H A N L I K E LY F I V E - S TA R R AT I N G , I T ’ S B E C A U S E S H E D O E S N ’ T B O R E U S W I T H T H O S E T H AT S H E T H I N K S W I L L D O J U S T T H AT, E D I T I N G T H E G O O D A N D V E R Y G O O D FRO M TH E D O N ’ T BOTH ERS

READS PLUS

DEAR CHILD By Romy Haussmann Publisher: Quercus Publishing Genre: Thriller

ALGARVE P L U S

A really thought-provoking, quite dreadful book which made me think just how precarious ordinary life is. Lena is a prisoner, living in a windowless shack in the woods. She has two children and their lives are completely ruled by their captor who calls himself their father. Life is strictly ordered for Lena and her two children, mealtimes, bathroom visits and schooling. He says he wants to protect them from the dangers of the outside world. Lena runs away and that’s when her nightmare truly begins. Her life becomes more confusing and and she questionswho can she trust and even who she is. I was enthralled, captivated and long after finishing reading the book I’m still turning it all over in my head. One of the best thrIllers I’ve ever read because the plot is so completely twisted.

THE MISSING LETTERS OF MRS BRIGHT By Beth Miller Publisher: Storyfire Genre: Chick-lit Aww, lovely story. All this correspondence going all over the place between women who pour their hearts out to their friends in a way all you ladies will totally understand. It’s gone out of fashion these days with the internet, email, whatsapp and all the other stuff that ancient people like me have no idea about. But, I think we do still all like to receive a letter, as long as it’s not a car tax reminder or water bill. This group of ladies play out their lives by taking it in turns to write their news, their thoughts and feelings, using theoretic friends as sounding boards over many, many years. It reminded me of having a penfriend when I was about ten years old and how exotic it was to receive an airmail letter from America. The excitement is still there for these ladies, and their interwoven lives will bring a little sunshine and escapism in a world that’s moving far too quickly for me.

THE LIBRARIAN OF AUSCHWITZ By Dita Kraus Publisher: Penguin Genre: Autobiography The is a true story and not for the fainthearted. Dita Kraus was 13 years old when she arrived at Auschwitz with her parents. They had been deported from Prague with so many others. Dita becomes the custodian of one of the smallest libraries in the world but also arguably one of the most precious. There are only eight books in the library but to the children of block 31 they bring escapism and hope, education and danger. The slightest transgression can result in execution no matter how young the transgressor. Neither of Dita’s parents survived Auschwitz. After Dita was liberated, she settled in Israel in 1949 and became a teacher. This book is one of those that appalls, fascinates and gives faith and hope for the future because no matter what we as human beings endure, our strength emerges and we will survive.

THE SENSITIVES By Rick Wood Publisher: Independently published Genre: Horror I hope you lot know that I only do this for you – read horror stories that make me sleep with the light on for about a month after each book. I don’t actually want to think too much about this one but it was a horrible, scary, weird, paranormal read, which the more depraved of you will love. Scary plot twists, spooky stuff and when I turned the last page you can imagine my delight to discover this is the first in a new series! I did actually like some of the characters and if I’m feeling really brave I might even read the next one. I’m such a baby when it comes to this stuff but I have to congratulate the author on an excellent storyline and scaring the hell out of me!

HEADLINES PLUS

BEAUTIFUL BASICS

had its highs and lows; the seemingly neverending conversations about Covid-19 were the down point and the uplifting delights Valentine’s Day, even for those who celebrated at a distance. But hey, and wow, we’ve made it to March. This morning, during my dog walk, I was bowled over again by the natural surroundings here that evolve without any effort; water and sunshine is all that nature needs. So what about us humans? An awareness that if we are to maintain healthy-looking hair and skin we need to use products that are free of chemical substances is vital. Do your research and educate yourself to understand what it says on labels before you buy anything (that goes for foodstuffs as well) so that you can avoid a multitude of problems in the long term. I always finish the end of each column in AlgarvePLUS with the words: “sulphate- and Paraben-free” so I thought I should explain exactly what that means. Most shampoos contain Sodium lauryl/ laureth sulphate which create a shampoo that is foamy and may thicken your hair but might, on the other hand, cause

I always finish my PLUS column with the words: “sulphate- and Parabenfree” so I thought I should explain exactly what that means to the health of your hair

irritation to our skin, eyes and lungs. Parabens can be found in so many products – cosmetics, facial cleansers, shampoos, deodorants, moisturisers for the face and body... you name it. Parabens, which are synthetic compounds such as butylparaben, methylparaben and propylparaben are included to prevent the growth of mould and bacteria and prolong a product’s shelf life. Not a good idea for healthy hair and skin. Then there is fragrance. Again, look at the label... a synthetic fragrance contains a lot of toxins that can irritate. The products that I love and recommend contain no chemical substances – or just the very minimum – like Olaplex, Oway, Kevin Murphy, Maria Nila, Alterna and Paul Mitchell. Don’t forget the basics: Shampoo with lukewarm water – hot water can strip your hair of essential oils leaving it feeling drier and looking dull. Keep your efforts focused on your roots and scalp because this is the area that needs cleansing from shedding skin, dandruff and oil. Also, washing your hair every third day is more than enough; if you feel the need to wash your hair daily use a very mild shampoo. Apply conditioner near your roots and not on the scalp to prevent greasiness. Start from mid-lengths to ends and gently take the knots out with a wide-toothed comb, working in small sections. Then give you hair a good long rinse and brave it with a finish of cold water – it helps with closing your cuticle, locking in moisture and preventing frizz.

J i m H a i r A r t i s t i s a t E s t r a d a V a l e d o L o b o 9 4 7A / T : 9 1 4 4 5 2 3 1 5 / W : j i m h a i r a r t i s t s . c o m

ALGARVE P L U S

EBRUARY CERTAINLY

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THERE ARE HUNDREDS OF PRODUCTS OUT THERE, MANY OF W H I C H , S A D LY, W I L L D O N O F A V O U R S T O Y O U R H A I R , S K I N A N D G E N E R A L H E A LT H . J I M VA N H E K E X P L A I N S W H AT T O L O O K O U T F O R O N L A B E L S A N D AV O I D AT A L L C O S T S

GET COOKING PLUS

11 Do you find clients today are serious cooks? Covid has brought out the cook in many people – the interest is noticeable.

H A N DS U P WH O ' S I NTO CO O K I N G A N D BA K I N G LI K E N E V ER B EFO R E . TI M E TO CO N S I D ER A N E W CO O K ER , P E R H A P S ? W E TA L K E D T O J O S É M A R T I N S A B O U T T H E B R A N D S R E G A R D E D A S B R I TA I N ' S B E S T

1 Are you Algarve born and bred? I was born in Mozambique. My family emigrated to South Africa when I was three and I was there until the age of 21.

equipment? Planning a kitchen around an AGA is easy. We have a diverse range of possibilities and a choice of 16 colours in the range, that's a huge selection.

2 What is your connection with British brands AGA and Falcon? Agabras Lda is the official importer to Portugal.

7 What are the most popular features today – the width and number of hobs or the cooking method? The option of an induction or traditional hob and modules, which can be added on to suit every need make for real choice.

3 How long have you been in the business of ensuring people cook better? I installed the first Rangemaster/ Falcon in 2004. 4 AGA – isn’t that hugely complex to operate? Today's AGA is 'On when you want it, off when you don't, just like any other cooker. These new models, which do not have to be on 24/7, are perfect for our hot climate. 5 What are the other advantages? An AGA is an investment – with a heritage. It is a cast-iron cooker and will last forever. 6 When planning a new kitchen, what should come first, the layout and cupboard choice or the essential

8 Gas or electric hobs – what are the advantages of each? If your power supply is insufficient, gas makes sense; induction has a quicker response. 9 What’s the difference between induction and electric hobs? Apart from the speedier response, induction is highly efficient and cheaper to run. 10 New hobs – does one really need new pots and pans? Induction hobs require a different type. We have a good selection in our cookshop store in São Brás.

14 Your top tips for getting the best from your new oven? Select from the choice the function designed for what you are cooking / baking. 15 Perfect steaks – under the grill or on the hot plate? Both options will give you the perfect result but the hot plate is a nonstick and may be easier to clean. 16 Any tips for wok cooking? Falcon ovens come with a powerful 3.5kw multi-ring wok burner and most models have a wok cradle. Have your ingredients cut and ready before your start. 17 What questions do you ask customers looking at the options? What type of cooking they mostly do, how many people they cook for and their budget. 18 What's best for whom? Our recommendations are always based on the individual client's needs. 19 So what are we talking about money-wise? The Falcon range starts at €1,200.00 and can reach up to €3,800.00; AGA prices depend on the features chosen. 20 Your brands come from the UK – has Brexit affected prices and delivery times here? Surprisingly, Brexit has caused a very small increase – customs services of about €250 per cooker. Deliveries have been delayed but will return to normal.

AGAB R A S LDA / R . B oaventura Passos n º 1 8 , S ão B rás de Alpor tel T: 9 1 7 8 1 2 1 5 5 / a g a b r a s . c o m

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questions...

13 Multi-function... isn’t it easier just to use ‘fan’ for everything? The choice of functions lets you produce the best results.

ALGARVE P L U S

12 How big is the Falcon range? Falcon offers 18 different models, more than a dozen colours, gas, ceramic and induction hob, and five different sizes, as well as the all-gas cooker. And Falcon is the only range cooker with a multi function oven and a steam oven.

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AT O S A G O S T O S , I N T H E H I L L S A B O V E S A N TA B Á R B A R A D E N E X E , D R I E D F L O W E R S A R E U S E D T O D E C O R AT E T H E Q U I N TA . T H E Y M AT C H P E R F E C T LY W I T H T H E S T Y L E O F T H E P L A C E – A S P L E N D I D O L D F A M I LY FA R M H O U S E – A N D S E R V E A S A T E S T I M O N Y T O A N AT TA C H M E N T T O T H E A L G A R V I A N L A N D A N D T H E C YC L E O F N AT U R E A R O U N D U S

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A U D E T O U LY

NEW SKILLS PLUS

There is simply no end to what you can create with flowers and leaves that have been carefully dried – from pictures to decoratiive displays to wedding cakes

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the beautiful dried flowers that, because of our treatment, become unique to us. Joining the practical with the pleasant, we go for long walks as soon as the first spring flowers appear. Those precious moments of foraging can be done until the end of October. With good scissors or secateurs, and a keen eye for detail, you can find floral treasures. The local countryside is full of wonderful wild flowers –scabious, nigella, starflower, poppy, lathyrus tuberosus (a wild sweet pea), helichrysum (‘curry plant’ or immortelle – which means immortal in French, a very telling name), wild carrot (daucus carota), honesty (lunaria), daisies, amaranth, chamomile, allium. The list of wild grasses could be endless: hare’s tail grass (lagurus ovatus), pampa grass, slender foxtails, various gramineous, wild oats, field pennycress, setarias, bladder campion (one of my favourites). You can also forage, sparingly, local greenery – the (in)famous eucalyptus, olive tree, pepper tree, carob tree, bougainvillea, ferns, ruscus. And last but not least, don’t forget the aromatic herbs – laurel, rosemary, thyme, mint, lavender; you can also pick moss, old branches or barks. Flowers like nigella, scabious and honesty are better left for picking until the end of summer, by which time the flowers will have been replaced by gorgeous pods, a unique poetic touch to your dried flowers arrangements. In spring and early summer, the best moment of the day to

pick flowers at their freshest and most beautiful is right after sunrise, when they are still well hydrated from dew. From July onwards, you can go floral hunting whenever you choose; by summer in the Algarve, everything will already have dried out, and that is by far our preferred time to gather together dried flowers – no single technique can replace the unique work of time, sun, wind and nature at its best. If like us, you are sometimes impatient, or if the end of the summer seems a long way off, here are some ecological techniques you can experiment with to dry flowers easily at home.

Hanging flowers After removing leaves and damaged parts of the plant, make up some small bunches of flowers and greenery, preferably by variety, tie with natural jute thread (used commonly in floristry work) and hang them in a cool, dry and airy place. The drier the weather, the better results you will achieve; if the atmosphere is wet, there’s a risk the flowers will rot. You could hang your bunches on a long tree branch, making them a beautiful decorative feature during the drying time. Avoid putting them in the sun, though, because the colours would change. That said, sunshine works well on greenery – especially eucalyptus – and will result in gorgeous shades of browns, burgundy and sand. After two weeks, you should have your first dried flowers. To keep them beautiful and stable, I recommend an occasional spritz with a little hair spray.

Using a flower press You can make your own flower press, see how to do it on the next page, but you can also use big heavy books as a press. To go the book route, place the leaves and flowers between two sheets of blotting paper or kitchen towel. Carefully place

ALGARVE P L U S

T TAKES TIME, patience and care to produce

them between the book pages, and repeat this, allowing at least ten to 20 pages between each insertion. Close the book and place an heavy object on it. Change the papers regularly and check that mould doesn’t appear. This process results in beautiful flat dried flowers after one week.

ALGARVE P L U S

Using an iron Place the flowers between two sheets of kitchen papers and cover with a heavy book for few minutes. Heat up your iron (without water) to a low temperature. Place your flowers in their papers on a solid surface and press with the iron, moving it slowly. Wait for the paper to cool down a little and then press again. Check if the flowers are dried by carefully lifting the paper.

What next ? After all that hard work, you now have your dried flowers. So what can you do with them? The answer to that is everything! Obviously, you can make vase arrangements. At Os Agostos, we like to create a minimalist composition mixing with our prettiest of props to highlight the dried flowers. Choose a favourite vase, or bottle, or jar and let your imagination run wild. Play with colours, forms, textures and heights. From a set of small terracotta pots and a tall glass cylinder on the ground to a simple vase on a table, everything is possible. Another option could be to put them in apothecary bottles, or under a glass display dome. And don’t forget our amazing palm tree leaves. Cut some during the summer, let them dry under the sun and in the winter arrange them in a tall vase and set on the floor in your front door. Decorate your doors and walls by creating suspensions – dried flower hoops are a designer choice. Match them to a macramé wall hanging for a boho result. If you are patient, you can make jewellery with the smallest pieces – wreaths, wristbands, hairpins, hoop earrings. You can also embellish your straw hat – there’ll be step-by-step instructions for this in the April issue. Aude is the resident florist at Os Agostos, the sumptuous wedding and concert venue in the hills. Her stunning work can be seen at instagram.com/flowersbyaude/ and purchased at osagostos.com/wreath-collection

Step-by-step guide to making a flower press

NEW SKILLS PLUS

ADICO BY IN-PETTO In order to see the outdoor collection of Adico please arrange an appointment to visit us.

www.adico.pt Rua dos Mailhadais 126 8100-082 Boliqueime

www.in-petto.nl groothandel@in-petto.nl 00 351 910 440 728 in_petto_groothandel

I N T E R P R E TAT I O N S

56 l

ALGARVE P L U S

W H AT D O E S T H E T E R M ‘ B AC K S T R E E T ’ M E A N TO YO U ? N A R R O W PAT H S C R O S S E D W I T H S T E P S A N D L I N E D W I T H C O LO U R F U L H O U S E S F R I N G E D W I T H F LO W E R I N G P L A N T S ? O R Q U I E T S PAC E S R I C H I N LO C A L H I S TO R Y ? O R T H E R E M N A N T S O F W H AT O N C E WA S , B U T H A S B E E N L E F T TO D E C L I N E ?

MARTIN GOODKIND THE STREET WHERE Loulé WHEN August 2019 W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L The incongruity of the Art Deco sun ray window grill. A DV I C E Keep your camera in auto/wide-focus mode and continuous shooting. CAMERA Sony RX1

NIGEL MOORE OLHÃO STR E E T WHERE Olhão WHEN September 2020 W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L I just love capturing local street scenes and this was off the beaten track. A DV I C E On a street photo shoot, try to be as inconspicuous as possible... no big DSLRs around your neck! I have a small APS-C Fuji in my pocket. THE ALGARVE PHOTOGRAPHERS GROUP To L e a r n m o r e a b o u t t h e A l g a r v e P h o t o g r a p h e r s ’ G r o u p , t h e w o r k of its members and the oppor tunities to join the group, visit algarvephotographersgroup.org

CAMERA Fujifilm X100V

PHOTOGRAPHY PLUS

DARYL GABIN COBBLER’S ARCH

LUDI STIEBNER

WHERE Faro

NUMBER 3 WHERE Odeiceixe

WHEN 2013

WHEN November 2020, between lockdowns

W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L The contrast of light.

WHAT’S SPECIAL The wear and tear, the dishes left out for street cats.

A DV I C E Always a challenge to get good results when there are bright and dark areas of an image. Don't be afraid to increase ISO settings to get what you want, when you want it.

ADVICE No harm using your mobile phone to photograph if you have forgotten your camera.

CAMERA Canon 7D

CAMERA Samsung Galaxy J5 mobile phone

EVELINE SAKKER MUSIC MAN WHERE Tavira WHEN August 2013 W H AT ’ S S P E C I A L Lightfall in the alley. ADVICE Try to reduce the light in the background. CAMERA Canon G15

TECHNO PLUS

WORK FROM WHEREVER…

I M AG I N E B EI N G A B LE TO C A R RY YO U R CO M P U TER I N A P O C K E T A N D N E E D I N G O N LY Y O U R S M A R T P H O N E T O W O R K , W H E R E V E R YO U A R E A N D H OWE V ER CO M P LE X YO U R FI LE S . WELL , YO U C A N N O W T H E R E ’ S A W H O L E N E W WAY T O C O N N E C T CH R I S PAR TR I DG E

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APTOPS ARE a pain for people who need to take their work home. They are heavy, bulky and you need to carry a bunch of cables to keep them connected and charged. Wouldn’t it be lovely if you could do all your work on your smartphone, which is so small and light you could forget it is even in your pocket? But, I hear you cry, although the phone is fine for playing games, watching videos or catching up with emails on the go, you cannot possibly work on massive spreadsheets or create impressive presentations on a tiddly phone screen when you get to work or back home. But you can now… by connecting the phone with a monitor or TV set. Add a wireless keyboard and mouse, and your smartphone can become a work computer. In fact, the latest trend in the workplace is to abandon laptops in favour of monitors everywhere, so people can plug their smartphone in to work wherever they are. And second home owners can leave their laptops at one home, simply plugging their phones in to the telly when they get to the other. The most basic way this can be done is by using an HDMI or USB cable and ‘mirroring’ the phone’s screen to the monitor or TV, so anything you see on the phone

is repeated on the much larger screen. This is obviously useful for slide presentations and playing videos at meetings, but it also allows you to create and edit documents if you have a keyboard and mouse attached. However, it is a frustrating experience editing on a small screen blown up to a big screen. You are forever having to move round the document, and function keys are usually invisible. It is not great – you are usually better off editing on the smartphone screen itself – using a portable Bluetooth keyboard makes the process less of a pain. The ideal system would be some way of using the smartphone to provide an experience more like a real computer.

Who would have thought it? Connect your phone to your laptop, your computer, or your TV and you get the full picture

A different way Which is where ‘desktop mode’ comes in. Desktop mode transforms the smartphone into the tiny power-

The ideal system would be some way of using the smartphone to provide an experience more like a real computer.

TECHNO INTERIORS PLUS

Android 11 phones. OnePlus and Huawei already have somewhat basic implementations in their latest phones. Tragically for Apple fans, there seem to be no plans for an iOS version of desktop mode.

Samsung-style

ALGARVE P L U S

packed computer it really is, and uses it to create a proper desktop environment on the monitor or TV it is attached to. You get a taskbar along the bottom of the screen, icons for your apps, and (joy!) windows that can be resized and moved around the screen jas you would on your computer. Multi-tasking? Not a problem, unlike the standard mobile operating systems. You can attach a keyboard and a mouse, and the smartphone’s screen can even be used as a touchpad. In fact, desktop mode is a fully-functioning desktop computer that can fit in your pocket. The good news is that desktop mode is enabled in Android 11, currently being rolled out. The bad news is that only Samsung has so far implemented desktop mode – in its DeX system – though LG and Motorola have announced they will also support it in their

Samsung’s DeX is installed in its recent higher-end phones and tablets. The first iterations came with a dock to hold the phone but now a simple cable, either USB-C or USB to HDMI, is needed. The latest Galaxy 21 phones can even communicate with a TV using wi-fi, but the TV needs to support a standard called Miracast. And… you can connect your phone to a computer and run apps within a DeX window, giving you the ability to work on the phone’s files, play your favourite phonebased games and so on, all on one screen. The DeX experience really does make working on your smartphone feel just as comfortable as working on a regular computer. I am writing this article using a Samsung Note 20, connected to an Asus Zenscreen portable monitor, propped up in a Logitech 780 Bluetooth keyboard, perched on my knees as I lounge on the sofa. It is exactly like having a laptop, but one that I can pop in my pocket and take with me when I am done. If I had an office, I could take it there and plug it in to another screen and continue work simply and easily. One warning note, however – although almost all Android apps are optimised for DeX, some only work in a phone-sized window. The most popular apps such as Microsoft Office, Photoshop, Google Docs and many others work just fine, but if you rely on a more specialist app it is advisable to try before you buy.

keynoard choices

If you want to work on the move, using desktop mode when you get into the office or back home, you will need a Bluetooth keyboard to make typing easier. Here are a few of the best: M i c r o s o f t U n i ve r s a l F o l d i n g Key b o a r d One of the few keyboards that folds up so small you can just pop in your pocket or bag and you will never know it is there. Works with any operating system, but pricey at €87.88 from FNAC. Z a g g F l ex A stylish keyboard with a cover that protects the keys when not in use and folds into a phone stand when typing. Again, all operating systems are catered for. Reckon on €50+.

Logitech K380 As simple as a keyboard can be – a super-thin tile you can just file away with the paperwork. It works with all operating systems and you can pair it up to three devices, so you can use it with your phone, tablet and even your PC if you feel so inclined. Not expensive at around €40.65 from pccomponentes.pt

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PAST PLUS

60s

JULIE CHRISTIE

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Few young actresses could have rivalled Julie Christie for the title of ‘Face of the Sixties’. Born in India, the daughter of a tea-planter, and educated at convent boarding schools in England, she trained at the Central School of Speech and Drama. Once discovered, she starred in a series of hugely-successful films ranging from Darling – the movie that made her name and won her an Oscar in 1966 – to the epic Doctor Zhivago, Far from the Madding Crowd and Don’t Look Now. However, celebrity status never really suited her and she preferred to work in less mainstream films later in her career. Christie had well-publicised romances with two of her co-stars, Terence Stamp and Warren Beatty, but by the late Seventies had settled on a farm in Meifod, Wales, with friends. The campaigning journalist Duncan Campbell became her life partner and they married in 2008. By then, she had become equally well-known for her support of causes like animal rights, and nuclear disarmament. She had a cameo role in Harry Potter and the Prisoner of Azkaban in 2004. Three years later she was persuaded by director Sarah Polley, to star in Away from Her about a woman facing the onset of dementia – for which she was nominated for another Oscar. Now living between Wales, California, and London, Julie recently claimed that “most people now have forgotten who I am.”

W H AT E V E R H A P P E N E D T O … W E A L L G E T T H O S E S U D D E N F L A S H E S – A FAC E O R N A M E O R FA D F R O M T H E PA S T T H AT W E R E M E M B E R … S O R T O F. T H E Y M I G H T H AV E D R O P P E D O U T O F T H E P U B L I C E Y E O R C H A N G E D D I R E C T I O N – Y O U O N LY K N O W W H E N Y O U S TA R T L O O K I N G

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JILL ECKERSLEY

MICKY DOLENZ

60s

When the US TV sitcom The Monkees first aired on British TV in 1967, the Radio Times rather snootily described it as “about four long-haired young men who encounter adventures as a pop group.” Nonetheless, the show was a hit and made stars of the actors who played Davy, Micky, Peter and Mike. Former child actor Micky Dolenz was cast as the group’s drummer, even though he had never played drums and had to have lessons before the band toured with their hits like I’m A Believer. Born in Los Angeles to actor parents, he had starred in a 1950 TV show, Circus Boy. For a couple of years, The Monkees were riding high but when the show came to an end, Micky maintained a diverse career. He released solo albums, appeared on stage in the Harry Nilsson musical The Point, alongside fellow-Monkee Davy Jones, became a stage and TV director, and auditioned for the part of the Fonz in Happy Days but lost out to Henry Winkler because he was too tall. He worked as a New York DJ, a voice-over artist and did a stint on stage in Hairspray in London. Micky has been married three times and has four daughters. Davy Jones died in 2012 and Peter Tork in 2019, but Micky and Mike Nesmith had 2021 tours arranged before Covid hit. “This is the first time for years I haven’t been packing a suitcase every three days!” he quipped, as he spent his time working in his California vegetable garden.

60s

If there’s one thing people love, it’s a heroic failure. And they don’t come much more heroic than Eddie the Eagle, who represented Great Britain at ski-jumping in the Calgary Olympics of 1988 – and came a spectacular last. It had been 60 years since Great Britain had even had a representative in ski-jumping (and he was, in fact, Swiss). However that didn’t deter Eddie – real name Michael – whose childhood dream it was. Nor was he put off by the fact he had been ranked 55th in the world, had no money, no sponsorship and little training. He took part in both the 70m and 90m events, wearing hand-me-down ski-boots, six pairs of socks, and glasses so steamed up that he could hardly see; he promptly won the hearts of the British public. With few rivals, he held the British ski-jumping record until 2001, but failed to qualify for any of the Winter Olympics in-between. He returned to work as a plasterer but also took advantage of his new-found fame to obtain work as a local radio presenter and ITV sports commentator. He also made pop records, one of them in Finnish, of which he understood not a word. He still lives in Gloucestershire but is divorced now from his wife of 13 years who, reportedly, left him pretty poorly off. He is also the patron of a charity called Ski4Cancer. Failure? Not a bit of it, says Eddie. “Anyone who has a go is a success!”

He took part in both the 70m and 90m events, wearing hand-medown ski-boots, six pairs of socks, and glasses so steamed up that he could hardly see.

EDDIE ‘THE EAGLE’ EDWARDS

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80s

Way back in 1960, an award-winning hairstylist from Illinois was asked to design a brand-new style for the coming decade. Margaret Vinci Heldt came up with a ‘look’ which was inspired by the shape of a fez she happened to own. A model’s long hair was backcombed, then piled high on the back of her head with the top smoothed over, and fixed in place with hairspray. Someone commented that it “looked a bit like a beehive” and the iconic hairstyle was born. Popularised by celebrities of the time from Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot to Dusty Springfield and The Ronettes, the style became the ‘in’ do among teen girls and young women. Some of whom confessed to sleeping with their heads hanging over the side of the bed to keep their fashionable hairstyles in place! There were even competitions for the ‘highest beehive’ with some measuring almost a foot tall. The early Sixties were the ‘beehive days’ but later in the decade less highmaintenance hairdos Vidal Sassoon's ‘bob’ and long hippie styles took over. The beehive never quite died, though, and was seen in later years on stars like Coronation Street’s Bet Lynch, singer Mari Wilson and the tragic Amy Winehouse.

THE BEEHIVE

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EXPAT INFO PLUS

FREEDOM OF MOVEMENT POST-BREXIT

What if you are already resident? If you hold an existing residence document for Portugal, you must swap this for the new residence permit before 30 June 2021 for it to remain valid. You need to apply for this on the SEF website in the first instance, followed by a personal appointment at the Câmara Municipal (Town Hall). Even if you haven’t secured residence yet, if you can show you were living in Portugal before 2021, you can still qualify for uninterrupted freedom of movement and citizens’ rights under the UK/EU Withdrawal Agreement. While you don’t need to have been physically present in Portugal as at 31 December 2021, you do need proof that it was your permanent home at that time (e.g. utility bills and Portuguese bank statements from 2020). Again, you have until 30 June to apply. Gaining residence if you move in 2 0 2 1 ? Portugal will, of course, continue to welcome UK citizens, albeit under different rules. Previously, Britons could apply for residence once already living in

Can you take advantage of Portugal’s ‘ g o l d e n v i s a ’ ? If you make a substantial investment in the country – including buying a high-value Portuguese home – you could enjoy more flexible freedom of movement here. This option, known informally as the ‘golden visa’, would allow you and your family to come and go as you wish without having to become fully resident. The most common way to secure a golden visa is by buying Portuguese property worth at least €500,000 (€350,000 in an ‘urban regeneration’ area) and holding it for at least five years. While this currently applies across the country, from July 2021, properties in Lisbon, Porto, the Algarve and other coastal areas will be excluded. Other options include buying shares in a company or making a deposit in a Portuguese bank of €1 million-plus or investing in a new business that offers employment opportunities or other significant local benefits. P l a n n i n g f o r l i f e i n P o r t u g a l While Portugal is a fantastic place to call home, careful financial planning can help you take full advantage of what it has to offer. Portugal offers some tax-efficient opportunities for residents – and how you hold your savings and investments can make a significant difference to your tax bill – so you will benefit from planning ahead. For the best results, talk to a locally-based, crossborder specialist to secure financial peace of mind for your family and really make the most of living in Portugal.

All information is based on Blevins Franks’ understanding of legislation and taxation practice, in the UK and overseas at the time of writing; this may change in the future.

T: 2 8 9 3 5 0 1 5 0 / E : p o r t u g a l @ b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m / W : b l e v i n s f r a n k s . c o m

Portugal; now, you have to provide the right documentation at a consulate/embassy in the UK and wait for your paperwork to come through before moving. To gain residence, you will generally need to prove you have 'sufficient' annual income to support yourself and any dependants without relying on the state. You will also need to have adequate health insurance cover for Portugal and commit to spending a minimum amount of time here (generally at least six months a year). And don’t forget to register as a tax resident in Portugal and meet your tax obligations, as required.

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How much time can you spend in P o r t u g a l ? Unless you have Portuguese residence or EU citizenship, UK nationals can no longer come and go as they wish post-Brexit. As with most other ‘third country’ visitors, you can now only spend up to 90 days in any 180-day period without a visa. This restriction covers the entire Schengen zone – which includes most EU countries plus some EEA states – so the clock would continue counting if you went over to Spain, for example. Once you have used up your allowance you will not be permitted into another Schengen country without a visa until you have spent enough time outside the area. Those caught overstaying risk deportation, fines and even a record in their passport that could complicate future travel and visa applications. If you want to spend more than three months at a time in Portugal, there are two main options: you can apply in advance for a visa for each extended stay; or unlock unlimited freedom of movement by becoming a Portuguese resident.

I F Y O U H AV E A H O L I D AY H O M E O R WA N T T O S TAY I N P O RT U GA L A S A U K C ITIZEN , M A K E S U R E YO U K N OW W H E R E Y O U S TA N D A N D W H AT Y O U N E E D T O D O . M A R K Q U I N N , PA RT N E R , B L E V I N S F R A N K S , A DV I S E S

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ADVICE PLUS

YOUR money R I C A R D O C H AV E S O F A L L F I N A N C E M AT T E R S I S O N T H E P L U S TE A M A N D H ER E TO A N SWER YO U R Q U ESTI O N S O N TH E I S S U ES T H AT A F F E C T Y O U R L I F E S T Y L E O N T H E A L G A R V E . H E R E H E E XPL AI N S TH E FI N A N C IA L PL A N N I N G YO U S H O U LD P U T I N PL AC E

I am increasingly confused about what the Portuguese government is expecting us ex-pats to pay for goods being shipped out from the UK which have been paid for, including the VAT at the point of sale. Surely it makes no sense to try to charge IVA again here – we would simply stop ordering things so the government won’t gain anything, and neither will shippers whose operations are being penalised. This is a problem created by Brexit and will mostly impact the cross-border movement of goods between the EU and the UK. Since 1 January 2021, goods dispatched from the UK to Portugal, and vice versa, are no longer qualified as intra-community transactions, but as imports and exports subject to customs controls. This will be accountable under the Supply of Services rules, notably taking business-to-consumer (B2C) treatment, and there will be further changes to the VAT refund rules under EU law. This means that Customs Declarations are now required from for shipments between the UK and the European Union (and vice versa). Although the EU-UK Trade and Cooperation Agreement refers to ‘zero tariffs’ (zero customs duties), this doesn’t replace the need to generate a Customs Declaration and so a commercial or pro-forma invoice is required.

Email your finance questions for Ricardo to martin@algar veplusmagazine.com for inclusion in the first available issue of Algar ve Plus . To c o n s u l t d i r e c t l y w i t h R i c a r d o C h a v e s e m a i l r i c a r d o @ a l l f i n a n c e . p t

My wife is a particularly good cook and as we are here full time we thought it would be interesting to create a menu of dishes that we could produce in our kitchen here and offer for home delivery. We are not talking big business here in any way, but rather something we would both enjoy. What legalities to I need to be aware of? During the pandemic, and with all the restaurants closed during lockdown, the food businesses have had no option other than to rely on take away or home delivery services to survive this crisis. To start your small venture, we would recommend that you register as a sole trader; as things progress, if your yearly turnover is below €12.500, then you can register below the VAT threshold, which means that you will be VAT exempt. Once you are registered with the tax authorities and the social security, then you should get the licence from the city hall – please note that all these required registrations can be done online. Be aware that it is mandatory to comply with all the HACCP (Hazards Analysis and Critical Control Points) regulations. Normally we suggest that you appoint a company that provides this type of service – they will audit your business and advise you on the safety and security measures you need to put in place. They may also assist you with the licensing at the municipality. Finally, don’t forget to ensure that you take out the best possible insurance, not only for the business itself (public liability), but also to cover any working accidents. Policies for both these areas are mandatory. Taxwise, if you choose the simplified regime and have no other type of income, in the first year the taxation could be 3.75% of your gross income, or possibly even less than that.

The trade deal only applies to customs duties, meaning that in most cases customs duties will not be applied to goods fulfilling all necessary ‘rules of origin’ requirements. However, VAT will still be levied. Customs declarations are therefore required for goods to clear the border; country-specific restrictions will still be in place and any associated licences will also be required.

ALGARVE P L U S

Now that Brexit has happened how does it affect me from a tax standpoint? I live here full time but have a home and business in the UK. I invoice clients in the UK and transfer money to my bank here when needed from my UK bank account. I am confused to say the least. Can I continue as I have been doing for the past 15 years? The Double Tax treaties in place between Portugal and the UK have not changed with Brexit. So, this means that you can remain doing business the same way as you were before. In Portugal, you are not taxed on the monies you remit here, but you are taxed on the monies you earn worldwide; you just need to make sure that these amounts that you transfer to your personal bank account are justifiable and if they refer to income, they should be declared on your yearly tax declaration.

very comfy sofa

39.00€

Upcycled chest

249.00€ your own cosy corner

175.00€

460.00€

85.00€ with oodles of ideas

High quality pre-loved and upcycled furniture and gift centre

dinner for 6

Browse: www.kitandcaboodle.pt Chat: 00 351 289 394 257 .00€

199

Email: sales@kitandcaboodle.pt Visit: Almancil, next door to Algarve Express

UK - ALGARVE - UK LOCAL – NATIONAL – INTERNATIONAL – WORLDWIDE

ALGARVE Algarve Express Transport & Removals Algarve Secure Storage Service Caminho do Cerro do Galo, 8135-028 Almancil, Algarve, Portugal Mob 00351 968807244 · Tel 00351 289 393707 sales@algarveexpress.com UK DEPOT BASILDON ESSEX Open for collections Mon-Fri 8am-7pm & Sat 9am-12am Mobile 0044 (0)7989 417625 · Tel 0044 (0)1268 723601

www.algarveexpress.com

EXCHANGE PLUS

WORKING FOR YOU WH E TH ER M OVI N G L ARG E SU M S O F M O N E Y O C C A S I O N A L LY, OR SMALLER AMOUNTS ON A R E G U L A R B A S I S , Y O U ’ L L WA N T TO M A K E S U R E YO U ’ R E G E T T I N G THE BEST POSSIBLE RETURN, S AY S J O S E A L M E I D A

N e e d t o m ove m o n ey r i g h t n ow ? A spot transfer is your best option if you need to move money right away. You simply agree your exchange rate with the provider you’re using and tell them where you want to send the funds. They’ll make the exchange and send your purchased currency to your recipient as soon as possible (in most cases transfers take from 24 to 48 hours, but they can be same day). Some providers can arrange spot transfers online, over the phone or by app.

to be made on a pre-set date, hassle free. If the provider you use offers an online service and app, you can also make adhoc transfers 24/7, putting you in complete control.

Wa n t t o s p e e d u p f u t u r e t ra n s f e r s? Buying currency in advance can help you take advantage of favourable exchange rates and speed up future transfers. With some providers you have the option to purchase currency in advance and hold it in a digital currency wallet until you need it. You should be able to have multiple wallets in multiple currencies.

Wa n t t o s t ay u p t o d a t e?

N e e d t o m ove m o n ey r e g u l a r l y ?

If you want to move your money when the exchange rate is in your favour, you can use a rate alert to target a specific rate. You set the rate you want to achieve and you’ll receive an instant notification by text or email if that rate is hit. You can then decide to either make your transfer or set another alert. Some leading currency specialists will also send daily currency market updates straight to your inbox, and help you move your money at the right time. If you run or work for a business with international payment requirements there are additional services you may want to explore, including batch payments (where you can make multiple payments in multiple currencies with one simple file upload) and collection accounts. Picking the right currency transfer solution is important, so do your research, talk things through with an expert and find the service that best suits your needs.

If you transfer money to and from Portugal on a regular basis (to pay a foreign mortgage, transfer a pension, or send money to loved ones, for example) some providers will allow you to automate these payments. With a regular overseas payments service you can arrange for transfers

Currencies Direct has helped over 325,000 individuals and businesses move money abroad since 1996. It has an ‘Excellent’ Trustscore on Trustpilot, over 20 global offices and a team of more than 500 currency experts.

L i ke t h e l o o k o f t h e c u r r e n t exc h a n g e r a t e? If you like the look of the current exchange rate but you don’t need to make your currency transfer right now, you can use a forward contract to fix the rate in advance.Usually, you’ll have to pay a small deposit (typically 10% of the total transfer amount) to secure the rate. While fixing a rate does mean you’d miss out if the exchange rate suddenly strengthened, you’d be protected from any negative movements.

For more detailed information , please contact the loc al of fice T: 2 8 9 3 9 5 7 3 9 or register at c u r r e n c i e s d i r e c t . c o m / p o r t u g a l to get regular updates on the currency markets , ( U s e A l g a r v e P L U S m a g a z i n e a s t h e r e f e r e n c e) .

If you don’t need to make your transfer by a set date and would like to secure a better rate, you can use a limit order to target an exchange rate higher than the current market level. Just set the rate you want to achieve and your transfer will be triggered automatically if the market moves to that level.

Wa n t t o t a r g e t a n exc h a n g e ra t e?

ALGARVE P L U S

HE PROVIDER you use to manage your currency transfers can make a big difference as to how much you receive (with banks typically offering less competitive exchange rates than currency specialists), but the service you use is also key. However, even if you’re familiar with currency exchange all the jargon can make it difficult to understand which service is right for you. To help you on your way we’ve put together this handy guide, so you can get to grips with the different transfer options available.

When I first met ceramic artists who wanted to showcase their collections in my shop, I knew what I liked but had little idea of the complexity of their work and the processes behind the production of their pots and platters and bowls. And no clue whatsoever about clay or the glazes or even the timespan from concept to execution to finished piece. So, when I heard about a workshop in the old pottery in Loulé, I enrolled immediately, and a completely new world opened up to me. By the time I made my first pinch pots, I had learned about the different kinds of clay, about glazes and engobes, about firing temperatures and how to stock a kiln. But mainly I learned how impatient I am.

and friends and today, every now and then,

Now, two years later, I am the owner of

a less unattractive piece made by my own

a variety of ugly plates, some unround

hands finds its way into my shop and from

bowls (one for my ignorant cat) and

there into the home of a new owner.

a butter dish which looks more like an architect’s model of a building. But for me these pieces are unique and beautiful and I love every single one.

Rua 5 de Outubro nº 68 . Loul é . +351 964 222 612 Insta gram: www.insta gram.com/martina.loul e/

It took some time before I felt brave

Fa cebook: www.fa cebook.com/martina.loul e/

enough to show my work to family

www.martina-loul e.com

DATELINE PLUS

THE agenda T H I S M O N T H ’ S S P E C I A L S E L E C T I O N O F T H I N G S WO R T H K N OW I N G

A R T

CÔRTE REAL

Make contact

We’re in fast-change mode again but those rules and regulations are in place to ensure that we get the good times back at the earliest opportunity… We’ve included phone numbers with this month’s listing so you can call to see if private appointments at galleries, for example, are available

PA D E R N E

ALGARVE P L U S

An artistic reproduction of the 19th-century statue originally cast in bronze by Italian sculptor Rafaelle Monti, showing the strength, agility and grace of the horse. Call 961 528 679 for an appointment to see this, and many other exclusive works. corterealarte.com

TOMMASO OTTIERI

KAREN D’OLIVEIRA

ArtCatto, Loulé Easter Exhibition

Tavira d’Artes, Tavira

Paris (Arc), oil on board, 100cm x150cm, from a truly breathtaking collection. If you can’t wait until Easter and have walls groaning for some serious art, call 914 543 851 to make a viewing appointment. artcatto.com

Artist and gallery director Karen has long been fascinated by the human form, capturing movement and expression with sensitive, flowing brush strokes. Call 962 012 111 for a private one-to-one tour of the gallery. taviradartes.com

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE

DATELINE PLUS

THE agenda M U S I C

AMIGOS DE MUSICA

ALGARVE P L U S

Georgia

Os Agostos Santa Barbara de Nexe Pianist Dudana Mazmanishvili 23 and 25 March

LOOKING FORWARD Z E B R A S A FA R I TO U R S Z E B R A S A FA R I TO U R S .C O M

If you are starting to make plans now to get out and about when we get the all-clear, put a Jeep Safari half-day tour on your list – it’s great to discover history, traditions and secrets of our inland territory. Tours include a swim in crystal water springs, sampling of traditional liquors, and the taste of fresh honey directly from the farmer. Visit old villages and enjoy some amazing scenery. zebrasafaritours.com for more info. FATHER’S DAY TREAT Loulé Criativo is running an online gastronomic workshop at which Dad and a child will learn how to make three fig cheeses, each spiced with a different flavour – carob, orange and traditional. It’s on 13 March, 3pm-4pm, and will be conducted in English and Portuguese. Once you register (€40 for dad and one child), all the ingredients will be delivered to you at home, except for the lemon, which you’ll have to supply. You'll end up with a tasty treat, and a gift certificate to prove you did it! Contact Ana Figueiras at hufiana@hotmail.com / 966 789 387

The Amigos is ready to start its 2021 season with this piano soloist from Georgia, who has graced concert halls throughout Europe and the US, and has also been Cultural Attaché for her country in Berlin. This special programme will include Bach’s Goldberg Variations. Confirmation and reservations open 14 March at reservasconcertos@gmail. com

To see what stage productions may be back on schedule visit the following: Teatro das Figuras teatrodasfiguras.pt/pt/ agenda Teatro Lethes, actateatro.org.pt/ teatrolethes Worth noting is that the Duo Andaluz is due to open the International Guitar Festival on 28 March.

T O U R I S T O F F I C E S

We thought we’d include a list of tourist offices and contacts again, so you can check right up to the last minute what effect regulations have on planned events. Albufeira Rua 5 de Outubro 289 585 279 Alcoutim Rua 1 de Maio / 281 546 179 Aljezur Largo do Mercado 282 998 229

Tr i b u l u m

Clay Oven

Alte Estrada da Ponte, 17 289 478 666 Alvor Rua Dr. Afonso Costa, 51 282 457 540 Armação de Pêra Av. Marginal / 282 312 145 Carvoeiro Praia do Carvoeiro 282 357 728

A Quinta

Casa do Lago

Getting back to eating out We asked some favourite restaurants what they have been working on behind the scenes to delight the senses when they reopen. Here’s what we gleaned… "Our new dishes will feature prosciutto duck breast and also calf’s liver. Our dessert selection will include a white chocolate pannacotta." Antony, A Quinta, Loulé 925 223 838 "We are currently devising new dishes ready for when we can welcome guests to our restaurant again. Our daily changing lunch menu will be back and with it will be our newest creation, a unique and flavoursome duck tatin." Jonnie Pratt, Tribulum, Almancil 289 397 784

"For us, it is more of our most popular dishes that burst with flavour with every bite: the Karahi made with peppers, onions, tomato, ginger and garlic, our Methi dishes, a curry with fenugreek leaves and tomato, and our chicken tikka that is grilled fresh in our gold tandoor ovens as well as our famous chicken tikka masala and tandoori chicken tikka." Natasha Ruparelia, Clay Oven, Albufeira 289 586 868

"Our new tasting menu will include four tastes of the sea starting with an Algarvian crab paté, followed by a seafood sausage dish with prawn, lobster and crab, served with a chive and samphire butter. Snapper baked in local sea salt will be the catch of the day. For dessert, we’ll have an orange and almond praline semifreddo, with crême Anglaise and dark chocolate ganache." David Madeira, Casa do Lago, Quinta do Lago 289 394 911

Lagos Rua Vasco da Gama (S. João) 282 763 031 Loulé Av. 25 Abril, 9 / 289 463 900 Monchique Largo S. Sebastião / 282 911 189 Monte Gordo Av. Marginal / 281 544 495 Olhão Largo Sebastião Martins Mestre, 8A 289 713 936 Portimão Av. Zeca Afonso / 282 470 717 Quarteira Praça do Mar / 289 389 209 Querença Largo da Igreja / 289 422 495 Sagres Rua Comandante Matoso 282 624 873 Salir Rua José Viegas Gregório 289 489 733 São Brás de Alportel Largo S. Sebastião, 23 289 843 165 Silves Rua 25 Abril / 282 442 255 Tavira Rua da Galeria, 9 / 281 322 511

IF YOU HAVE ANYTHING YOU WOULD LIKE TO SHARE

Faro Rua da Misericórdia, 8-11 289 803 604

ALGARVE P L U S

281 531 232

Castro Marim Rua Dr. José Alves Moreira, 2-4

HUMPH PLUS

AND finally D O N ’ T TELEPH O N E A NTH O N Y M A RTI N I F YO U A R E TRY I N G T O S E L L H I M S O M E T H I N G . H E W O N ’ T TA K E K I N D LY T O Y O U R L I N E O F C H AT O R A N O V E R - FA M I L I A R U S E O F H I S F I R S T N A M E . M I N D Y O U , S TA R T I N G W I T H “ M R ” C O U L D H E L P

A ALGARVE P L U S

LTHOUGH I’VE BEEN here permanently

for over ten years, I’ve also kept up my UK mobile phone number to make it easier for certain incoming callers. The downside of this is that some of these are cold calls from businesses selling their wares and, as you know, they are annoyingly persistent. Also as I have both the UK and PT sim cards in the one phone, when the call comes in I don’t know which one is ringing. It’s 7.30pm and the phone rings. “Is that Anthony Martin,” enquires a smiling sultry voice. I know she is smiling for it’s in her tone, the same tone that also tells me that she has a wide mouth, dark eyes and glossy black hair. I reply in the affirmative and hear her skirt riding up as she crosses her legs, her top slips off one shoulder as she breathes out my name: “Tony, I’m Claire. Do you have a moment?” Do I have a moment? Of course I have a moment, bugger the steak, let it burn. “Tony, I’d like to talk to you about saving money.” The vision rapidly disappears as I realise she is touting for a gas/electric/doubleglazing company and is probably sitting at one of hundreds of tiny plastic desks at a call centre in Grimsby with a lit fag balanced on the edge of a styrofoam cup full of cold coffee while she picks idly at her acne-scarred face. “Not interested, thank you,” I snap, as my mind returns to the reality that I am a long-married, family man, living a thousand miles away in Portugal. These early evening calls are becoming increasingly intrusive; every week now – I’m ex-directory but lord only knows how many lists I’m on. I am fed up with the insurance, telephone and utility companies calling to tell me that I can save money if I listen to their ten-minute spiel, asking if I would like the outside of my house clad in stone and should I agree immediately they will also do me a bitumen-covered front path included in the price. And what is this thing with first names? There used to be an expression that conveyed closeness between two people, which was: “Of course, we’re on first-name

terms.” Nowadays everyone is on first-name terms and very often we don’t know his or her family name. But then do we need to know it, for if we write to them we will probably address it to norman@whoseacleverboy. com or something similar? Fifty odd years ago I had a boss who told me to go out and buy a hat. Asking why – for I am not a hat wearer – he replied that I needed one so that I could take it off when introducing myself to people. Wow, have times changed. Instead of doffing our hats we have now doffed surnames, I’m Tony, even to those I haven’t yet met. I’m fine with this here, in Portugal, because this is the norm and I introduce myself with my full name, but when did the UK get in on the act? My bank manager is Ian, my doctor was Eric, and even the Prime Minister is at it. Mr and Mrs are redundant and have gone the way of ties, cuff links and personal letters. I can understand the necessity of ingratiating yourself if you are trying to sell something to someone who doesn’t think they need it but sometimes it can have the opposite effect. The other day I telephoned Vodafone UK to enquire about a particular service. After 20 minutes of alternate button pushing and Vivaldi I finally got through to Carol who, after asking my name, throughout the conversation, repeatedly called me Martin. An understandable mistake, but there are few things more aggravating than being called by your surname so, after a while, I corrected her and told her that Martin was my family name. She was mortified, had to know my first name immediately and continued to use it – why? Is it so difficult to use the word Mr? They do in India. You can always tell when you have been routed to a call centre in India for you are immediately struck by the politeness of the staff and their use of English. It is a pleasure to talk to call centre staff, as their command of our language is far superior to our own. Their sentences don’t start with the word “like” or end in “y’know”. “Innit” doesn’t exist and their patience appears to have no end but, best of all, they call me Mr Martin.

I was told that I needed a hat so that I could take it off when introducing myself

We’ll look after your tax affairs while you look after your lifestyle