Feeling festive

IT’S NEARLY EASTER. FROM TRADITIONAL FOODS TO HISTORIC AND RELIGIOUS RITUALS, HERE’S WHAT GOES ON AROUND THE COUNTRY AT THIS MUCH-CELEBRATED TIME

Words: SALLY DIXON

EASTER SIGNALS that summer is well on the way and there’s no better time to make the most of the sun-filled days than getting involved in some of Portugal’s many elaborate seasonal celebrations.

Easter (Páscoa) is a pretty big deal here – major cities, small towns and little villages across the country all have their own style of celebration, some deeply religious, others more about coming together for family fun, which means there is something for everyone.

Food, of course, plays a big role in the Easter celebrations. Sample and enjoy it all, from tasty

Folar da Páscoa (a traditional sweet or savoury Easter bread), sugarcoated almonds and chocolate eggs to roast lamb, boiled potatoes and roast chestnuts for Easter Sunday lunch, bacalhau (salted cod) on Good Friday and the traditional Pão-de-Ló cake dessert.

Easter celebrations start early in Portugal, the week before Easter Sunday, in fact, on Palm Sunday, which means there’s plenty going on and often something different every day.

Age-old, deeply-rooted traditions are a key part of the festivities with grand processions that local communities take part in after months of shared planning. And they are a beautiful sight, rich in meaning, elaborate in presentation. Some are sombre, serious and focused on communicating the religious message, others are a vibrant expression of colour and joy, an excuse to party and enjoy region-specific gastronomic delights that, in certain places, are a once-a-year speciality.

Join us on a journey…

Braga

2–9 April

Holy Week, or Semanta Santa as it is known, is a serious, religious celebration in Braga, and rightly so given that Braga is not only the oldest Portuguese city but one of the oldest Christian cities in the world and is the country’s main religious centre. The celebrations here date back to the 4th century. Get involved with the city’s wonderful sacred traditions for Holy Week, starting with the Blessing and Procession of the Branches on 2 April all the way through to Easter Sunday Solemn Mass at the Cathedral. The city is decorated for the occasion with flowers and lights filling the steps and street-side altars, enhancing the beauty of a city filled with baroque churches, stunning architecture and beautiful gardens. An estimated 100,000 tourists will step foot in Braga during Holy Week, so a lively atmosphere is guaranteed.

Bidos

2–9 April

In the picturesque medieval town of Óbidos, north of Lisbon, they recreate the last moments of Jesus Christ on the Sacred Road. If it’s impressive processions you’re looking for then Óbidos is the place to be. The first procession, Procession of the Third Order of St. Francis, is centuries-old and takes place at the beginning of Lent with an abundance of flower decorations. Good Friday sees the highlight of Holy Week with the Funeral Procession of the Lord, lit by torches along the route.

Loul

4 April and 18 April

The Festa da Mãe Soberana (Feast of the Sovereign Mother) takes place on Easter Sunday in Loulé, where eight men dressed in white will carry a statue of the Virgin Mary to the Church of São Francisco. Two weeks later, the main attraction in Loulé and one of the biggest processions in the country sees the Virgin Mary statue carried through the streets once more in the Festa Grande (Big Festival). Expect an accompanying band and fireworks finale.

Const Ncia

7–10 April

Every year at Easter, the beautiful and colourful boat processions of the Festival of Nossa Senhora da Boa Viagem (Festival of Our Lady of Good Travel) are not to be missed. A celebration of the river traffic that has, for centuries, brought goods to and from the port of Constância. The Feast and Blessing of the Boats in the rivers Tejo and Zêzere takes place on Easter Monday but a whole host of events and musical programmes make up this exciting time in the village, known as the Festas of the Municipality of Constância.

The procession at Obidos is part of a full week’s programme that includes a torch-lit parade on Good Friday

Sardoal

3–17 April

Not far from Constância is Sardoal, where Holy Thursday is the main event thanks to the impressive Fogaréus (Procession of the Lord of Mercy) that sees all street-lighting in the village turned off, guided by the light of candles and torches only. The Covent of Santa Maria da Caridade is also lit by 600 lamps, making it a breathtaking (if not a little eerie) sight. Local people get creative in the run up to Holy Week by making beautiful, natural flower carpets featuring images of birds, candles, crosses, etc on display in the chapels and churches of the village for all to see. Well worth a visit to be immersed in this captivating atmosphere.

Castelo De Vide

2–10 April

Easter in Castelo de Vide has a unique twist thanks to the mixing of Catholic traditions with parts of Jewish culture, a nod to the town’s rich history.

The celebrations have two parts, from Palm Sunday to Good Friday featuring more Catholic traditions, then from the evening of Good Friday to Easter Monday where the Jewish history plays a part. Throughout Holy Week, you will find lots of activities and specially organised events to add to the religious celebrations. You may even see the local shepherds who, on the morning of Easter eve, head to the town to take part in the Blessing of the Lambs and have their flocks of sheep blessed, a tradition that is unique to this north Alentejo town.

Easter Sunday sees the main event of the Resurrection Procession, involving the mixing of local age-old professions (carpenters, stone masons, cobblers, etc) and more modern-day ones.

Useful Information

semanasantabraga.com / semanasantaobidos.pt / castelodevide.pt/2754/semana-santa / visitportugal.com/en/node/457733 turismo.cm-sardoal.pt/index.php/pt/patrimonio-religioso/semana-santa cm-loule.pt/pt/agenda/24450/festa-da-mae-soberana.aspx