In the nick of time

IWALKED OUT of the door, down the path and sat on the beach. It was the year 2000 and I had just arrived in Carvoeiro, and admittedly the walk was quite a long one, as I was sitting on Benagil Beach. The sun was setting. The cliffs were golden and if you live in the Algarve and haven’t experienced sunset on these cliffs, you should!

My mind wandered and I dreamed about being able to paddle out and around these coves. I had heard there were secret voluminous caves as well. Little did I know that the biggest one was lurking only 100m to the east of exactly where I was sitting. I dreamed about owning a kayak and paddling these caves and over the years I did manage to go on a few boat tours but nothing prepared me for the first time I really explored these caves on my own.

Some 15 years later, I had created Algarve SUP – a stand up paddle board touring company – and it was our obligation to know our territory. So, after initial adventures, taking a month off and exploring the Algarve’s rivers, lakes and dams, I launched off a secret little beach very close to Senhora da Rocha.

It was perfect weather as the wind tends to blow offshore in the mornings (north wind) and then about 12:00 it would switch to a westerly and slowly increase all afternoon. So, heading out to the west in the morning would be optimal as most days the cliffs offer protection from the northerly wind, and by the time I was ready to turn around I had the westerly pushing me home. I loved working with the elements, it felt right. It felt smart.

In those days, only eight years ago, boat tours were not as prolific as they are now. A little Portuguese fishing boat puttered around the corner with a friendly wave and I pulled into a private cove. It was warm on the sand, hot actually as I had been paddling hard. When you’ve overcome the first few hours of paddle boarding you don’t tend to spend much time in the water, so I took the opportunity and stripped off, diving into the clear, cool ocean. Gliding over rocks and around promontories I felt the cool water recharging me and I stroked back to the beach, rested on the sand for a few minutes before continuing my explorations.

Cave after cave opened up. So many people paddle right past these gems – caves that open up on one side, and connect to another through a beach in the middle. Caves with two holes in the roof and one entrance. Caves with two entrances and one hole in the roof. It’s a veritable smorgasbord of natural delights.

The companies that offer tours through the 15 kilometres of coastline from Ferragudo through to Armação de Pêra tend to come and go every few years, after all I sold mine in 2018. There is a great mix of solid instructors who can help you learn to paddle board. If you’re nervous about standing up, opt for a kayak, it’s an easier (but not as much fun) option.

Naturally, you’re in the ocean and as a result the conditions can be unpredictable, even in the midst of summer. Sometimes, the south easter picks up and we get a rush of swell from the straits of Gibraltar where the wind whistles through, ruffling up the seas, and they compound themselves in the narrow entrances of the caves, producing surprising waves.

When you are messing around in the shore break with a hard object like a kayak or a paddle board, you’ll need to be aware of the dangers. One wave can easily thrust the board into you and put you flat on your back. After saying that, on a good day (which most days are in the Algarve) you’ll be absolutely fine, and as long as you can kneel comfortably, any age can paddleboard or kayak. It’s totally up to you and how adventurous and fit you are.

Enjoy your ocean adventures!