TECHNICAL FOLDER

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FAS5042 CREATIVE REALIZATION TIAGO ARAUJO SIMOES (James)


Industrial Cover seam (Regular) This Is the industrial cover seam stitch, commonly used to finish o hems on knitted garments. I managed to get it done in one go, just found it hard to keep the stick aligned with the edges of the fabric.

4 Thread Over-locker This is a 4 thread over-locker seam, I previously was used to do seams on stretch fabrics with an average industrial machine but its so much easier to do it with this machine.


Domestic Cover seam (Narrow) Another kind of hem typically used on stretch fabrics, I struggled to get this one to be narrow, since the fabric was very slippery.

Industrial Cover seam (Decorative) The machine looked a bit intimidating for this one but I did this stitch pretty easily.


Baby Over-locker This was definitely my favourite stitch from all of them, it looks amazing on every edge of a garment and its very easy to do on the machine.

Domestic Cover Seam (Wide) Executed this one well, the fabric made it a bit complicated sometimes.


Domestic Cover Seam (Decorative) You can get some cool eects with this one if you use nice colour combos with the 3 threads. Easy to do.


Leggings

Leggings Pattern with and without seam allowances


Leggings

Step 4, joining both sides of the elastic and attaching it to the leggings (creating a waistband impression). Then using the cover seam to fold the elastic inside and hiding the seam with the cover seam stick (this was the part

Step 1 was doing the central

I struggled the most since the machine

seam with a normal over locker

kept unthreading itself and the fabric was very slippery to align it perfectly with the seam.

Step 3 closing the sides with an over locker

Step 2 was closing inner legs with an over locker

Step 4 using the industrial cover seam

machine to do the hems

with 2cm each


Leggings

Here is the final product, I found it pretty simple to make, except the waist band. I chose to do half using the wrong side of the fabric and the other half using the right side, to create a contrast between textures.


Waistbands

Gathered waistband Squared up from the hip line and then place my pattern master on to my center back line and drew a line across it, then I decided the depth of my waistband, duplicated it and added the seam allowance on the top and on the side.

Straight waistband I took the measurement of back plus front, drew a rectangle, decided the depth of the waist band and placed my notches.

Bellow the waist For this one I did a normal straight waistband and I cut 3 parts of it and opened 1.5cm each.


Pattern Adjustment Armhole adjustment Shoulder point adjustment for squared shoulder

Shoulder point adjustment

Underarm adjustment

Bust and under arm adjustment to a more loose feel

To be tighter


Raglan

Started by drawing the raglan cut on both bodices and cutting the new adjustment

I grabbed

both of those pieces

measurements and created the sleeve on the left and for the right option I used the pieces i cut and attached them to the sleeve block, making the adjustments needed.


Hood

Simple/ Gusseted Hood

These are 2 dierent kinds of

Gusseted Hood With Collar

Gusset

hoods, you can design each of them with one patter and make

Gusseted hood with collar

alterations depending on your design.

Simple hood gusset


Hooded Sweatshirt Gusseted hood with collar

Raglan

I did some alterations in the gusseted hood with collar.

After extending the size of the front and back bodices, I extended the sleeve (check next page) then I worked on the raglan shape.

Raglan transformation on extended front and back bodices.

Elastic cord with a toggle stopper


Hooded Sweatshirt

Extended front and back

Extended raglan sleeve


Bodysuit

Back

Front

After designing both front and back I joined both back and front clothes and drew the

crotch

reinforcement piece

Crotch reinforcement piece


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Work on stand

I used around 14 2xl polos where I did multiple bleaching and dying methods to obtain dierent patterns in fabrics. I used

Here’s some work I did on the

beige and dark blue polos.

stand simulating one of my designs

I used this massive pair of sweatpants for toile/ dropping methods

I also found this seatbelt situation and I used it for multiple eects


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Work on stand

Random seat belt I found

Use of multiple seat belt straps while working on the stand and that’s when I started things about what could I be hanging on this seat belt straps.

I found it helped me way more drawing on the pictures of the

I also found this seatbelt situation

work on the stand I did in session

and I used it for multiple eects


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Development of details

Macrame Development

When I thinking about what things I could hand in the seat belt straps, I came across macrame, so I got the string and I had a go at it, it took me some time to make 6 strings of macrame with 3 dierent methods: centipede, chain and twist. I used a mop pad stick to hang the strings and knot them.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Development of details

Macrame Development

Then I did a first bath of dye using navy blue synthetic pigment, I boiled water in a stainless steel pot while adding the dye to a dierent container with warm water in order to mix it, then mixed both and added salt, let it sit and the add the macrame strings (wet), left it for 30 min and then I repeated the process since the color wasn’t as strong as I wanted. I let this dry and I used this fabric paint to paint some strokes on the strings


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Development of details

Fabric Development

I started by tying the fabric with some elastic bands and then I dyed it black with the same process as the macrame, after this I let it dry with the rubber bands on, I take them o and I brush bleach on top of the circles to make them more visible.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Development of details

Fabric Development

Here’s another 3 examples of my other 3 fabric experimentations where I added more pigment powder on certain regions in order to make these darker. Follow the same instructions as I did for the other fabrics

This was the same fabric as every fabric in this proposal but in a dark blue color, the other ones were all beige polos and this one was dark blue, I splashed it with bleach and it turned this red!

Dierent nuances of bleach that I did for the body suit collar.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Development of details

Stamp development

I did this stamp and I tried to stamp it with fabric paint on one of my fabrics but it wouldn’t look professional and clean, so I used the stamp and I sewed it down to the garment. I sculpted the stamp with this little spatula. On the second picture I tried to stamp my design on one of my fabrics but it didn’t attach properly so I gave up on the idea.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Development of details

Trouser Looks, Seatbelt and Spike Stud

I cut the seatbelt straps with a rotary cutter and then I sewed a D ring in it with the macrame strings tied on it.

Then I found this random towel on my kitchen floor

After sewing this I screwed the

and I thought it would be

studs making little holes with the

a good idea to use it as

unpicked on the loops.

loops for the sleeve to hold the seatbelt strap.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Construction of the Garment (Crop Top)

The Top

I started by cutting the top first and sewing it all with an over locker besides joining the green top to the blue one, I did that part with a normal industrial machine. I flipped over the garment and I thought it would look cool if I showed the white overlock on the outside of the garment.

After this I drew my signature with fabric paint in between the panels.

Painted 2 res strokes on the red top and added the spike studs on the shoulders.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Construction of the Garment (Crop Top)

The Sleeves

For the sleeve I did a plan on how I wanted each panel to fit having in mind color combos, then I sewed all those panels together, added the loops, screwed the spike studs, added this random elastic I took fro an old jacket on the hem of the sleeve and finished up some details on this piece.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Construction of the Garment (Body Suit)

The bodysuit was pretty easy to make, I joined the central front seam, then I did little hems on every edge with a zigzag stitch, join side and should seams, sewed the follower and a screwed the spike studs.


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

PATTERNS

Front/ back pattern construction

Front/ back pattern construction

Sleeve pattern construction


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

PATTERNS

Front/ back Top Cut 2 to fold size 16 FAS5042 James

Front/ back Top Cut 2 pairs size 16 FAS5042 James

Front/ back Top Cut 2 pairs size 16 FAS5042 James Front/ back Top Cut 2 to fold size 16 FAS5042 James

Sleeve panel Cut a pair size 16 FAS5042 James

Sleeve panel Cut a pair size 16 FAS5042 James

Sleeve panel Cut a pair size 16 FAS5042 James

Sleeve panel Cut a pair size 16 FAS5042 James

Sleeve panel Cut a pair size 16 FAS5042 James


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

PATTERNS

Bodysuit front Cut a pair size 10 FAS5042 James

Bodysuit collar Cut 1 size 10 FAS5042 James

Bodysuit back Cut to fold size 10 FAS5042 James


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

CLOTHING ITEMS USED

15 2xl pollos in the colour beige and one navy blue for the bleached collar and sleeve panels

White towel for sleeve loops

Sweatshirt used for the middle panel on the top


Toile Development And Fittings For Final Out Comes

Pictures Of Final Outcomes


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