Washington Gardener Magazine May 2024

WASHINGTON g a rdener

Battling the Red-Headed

Flea Beetle

Meet NWF’s

Rosalie Bull

Growing Summer Squash

Lithops: Rock Your World

Great Gardening Books Reviewed

A Visit to the Sandy Spring Museum Gold Medal Plants

Need a Garden Club Speaker?

Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the DC region and ONLINE! Call 240.603.1461 or email KathyJentz@gmail.com for available dates, rates, and topics.

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE DISCRIMINATING GARDENER AND COLLECTOR

Barry Glick

Sunshine Farm and Gardens

696 Glicks Road

Renick, WV 24966, USA Email: barry@sunfarm.com www.sunfarm.com

www.greenspring.org

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Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/Mid-Atlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out on the 15th of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588-6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 10th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.

Green Spring Gardens

A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round goldmine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins. Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.

Native azaleas are showy and fragrant. They are also called deciduous azaleas and “wild honeysuckles.” These beautiful shrubs bring beauty and grace to any yard.

Since the program’s inception, the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society (PHS) has named more than 150 Gold Medal Plants. All plants are selected for their hardiness in zones 4 to 8 on the USDA’s hardiness zone map, making them ideal choices for the Mid-Atlantic region. Illicium ‘Woodland Ruby’ photo courtesy of the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society.

Herons

Coming Up Roses

Thanks to my membership in the Potomac Rose Society (PRS; https://potomacrose. org/), I was able to visit three extraordinary private rose gardens in the DC area this spring. This was a wonderful spring for roses. My own roses had more blooms than ever before and they are still producing beautiful blossoms. I have a bud vase with a highly scented (and gorgeous!) Brindebella rose next to my computer as I type this.

All three PRS open gardens were marvels of dedication and hard work by their owners. These gardens are, of course, more than just roses. One of them had removed the typical turf lawn of their suburban neighbors and replaced it with flower beds stuffed with perennials, shrubs, and small trees. Another one had an extensive shady woodland garden that was full of green foliage and textures.

While rose lovers can get a bit obsessed (one gardener had more than 400 rose varieties in their collection), they are also realists and know that the height of rose season can be fleeting. They know that when their roses are in bloom, all other tasks and chores are set aside to get out and enjoy that bounty.

I hope you take some time to stop and smell the roses!

Sincerely,

Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, KathyJentz@gmail.com

Credits

Kathy Jentz Editor/Publisher

Washington Gardener

826 Philadelphia Ave. Silver Spring, MD 20910

Phone: 301-588-6894

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Volume 19, Number 3

ISSN 1555-8959

© 2024 Washington Gardener

All rights reserved. Published monthly.

No material may be reproduced without prior written permission. This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that the information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to legality, completeness, or technical accuracy.

Your editor at the private garden of Katy Banks, Rose Hill, in Arlington, VA

Reader Contest

Win a copy of Growing Herbs for Health, Wellness, Cooking, and Crafts: Includes 51 Culinary Herbs & Spices, 25 Recipes, and 18 Crafts by Kim Roman in the May 2024 Washington Gardener Magazine Reader Contest! (The prize retail value is $19.99.)

Learn everything you need to know to start your own culinary herb garden in this comprehensive guide about how to get started growing herbs and spices, whether indoors or outdoors. The book includes 51 useful herb plant profiles, including echinacea, St. John’s Wort, turmeric, elderberry, ginger, chamomile, Tulsi (holy basil), anise, hyssop, and many more. The author also shares a few of her favorite recipes where herbs are the star ingredient, including marinades, salad vinaigrettes, infused oils, delicious cocktails or mocktails, herbed and plain focaccia bread, teas, and more.

To enter to win the gift card, send an email to WashingtonGardenerMagazine@ gmail.com by 5:00pm on Friday, May 31, with “Growing Herbs” in the subject line and in the body of the email. Tell us what your favorite article was in this issue of Washington Gardener Magazine issue and why. Include your full name and address. The winner will be announced on June 1. o

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Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/MidAtlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out in the middle of every month. Contact KathyJentz@gmail.com or call 301.588.6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 5th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com.

Plant a Row for the Hungry (PAR) is an easy program to participate in and really does not take any extra resources than what you may have in your garden. In normal times, about 35 million people wonder where their next meal will come from. Most of these are children. That’s where PAR steps in.

PAR is such a simple program: It urges gardeners to Plant A Row (or a container) dedicated to feeding the hungry, and then take the harvest to someplace or someone that needs it. Once you have donated, send an email to KathyJentz@gmail.com with the total (in pounds and ounces) of what you gave. That is all there is to it. Easy. Effective. Adaptable and Helpful.

Reader Favorites

My favorite article in the February 2024 issue of Washington Gardener was “Shrubs for Late Winter and Early Spring Blooms.” I like to extend the duration of appeal of the garden so that there is something of interest throughout much of the year. Shrubs discussed in the article offer color and fragrance or texture to the garden.

~ Eric Hyman, Silver Spring, MD

I loved all the articles in the February 2024 issue of Washington Gardener issue, especially the one about the Wax Begonias. I did not know they were edible. The other one I really liked was about the introduction of the new Batik Geranium. I love geraniums. Keep up the good work. It is much appreciated. I love all you do.

I liked the article about the Pink Agastche most of all [in the April 2024 issue]. All the other articles are very informative. Thank you!

~ Joanna R. Protz, Lynch Station, VA

What Are You Growing from Seed This Year?

I had a fabulous crop of snow peas and sugar snap peas last year, so I will definitely be growing those again. I will also be growing zinnias and some other to-be-determined flowers, as well as lettuce, parsley, basil...

~ Wendy Bell, Takoma Park, MD

This year, I am growing cool-season annuals from seed. I purchased Lisa Mason Ziegler’s book Cool Flowers

In past years, I’ve picked up some of the seeds from her company in your annual Seed Exchange.

The seeds are already planted and sprouting. I’m looking forward to seeing if they survive (as they are supposed to). It’s now time to start planning for the summer annuals!

~ Jennifer Whalen, Silver Spring, MD

I have lots of seeds harvested from my Black-eyed Susans, as well as some common milkweed!

~ Susan Loewy, Washington, NJ

Zinnias so far, and probably lots else!

~ Mary Finelli, Silver Spring, MD o

Rosalie Bull is the Campus Engagement Lead for the Garden for Wildlife, a National Wildlife Federation program that works to engage, educate, and empower people to “plant with the purpose of saving the wildlife.” The program was originally founded in 1973, and has since drawn millions of people toward that mission.

Bull began working with Garden for Wildlife in September 2023. Recently, she helped with the Wild Visions Habitat Creation Challenge, which mobilized countless students in the DMV area to plant and garden.

We caught up with her last month at the UMD Community Learning Garden Pollinator Project.

Tell us about your background. Growing up, my mother always kept a beautiful garden full of vegetables, native flowers, and, in particular, milkweed and pipevine plants to attract butterflies. She raised me and my brothers to care deeply about the living world. I studied and then entered my career amidst the intensification of global warming and biodiversity loss, always aiming to craft a professional niche that was firmly rooted in both earth care and people care.

I’m really pleased to work at Garden for Wildlife because not only do I get to work each day to bring people into relation with the more-than-human world, but I also get to be part of an initiative that is built to respond to the planetary crisis at a relevant speed and scale.

Rosalie Bull: Garden for Wildlife’s Campus Engagement Lead

By Hannah Zozobrado

We’re on a mission to create wildlife habitat in yards and balconies across the country, facilitating rapid, widespread biodiversity renewal.

To do that, we make wildlife gardening simple. On the Garden for Wildlife website, folks can shop for native plants by ZIP code and have them shipped right to their door. These native plants will create critical habitat for the birds, bees, and butterflies in their area, in addition to supporting healthy soils and watersheds. For every plant purchased, we reserve one in our Plant Bank to be donated to a community in need, doubling our collective impact! This is how we build a biodiverse future: yard by yard.

How would you describe yourself to a stranger?

Currently, a solarpunk saleswoman, creatively creating butterfly habitat in backyards, balconies, parks, rooftops, roadsides, hillsides, and riverbanks across the country!

What inspires you and your projects?

I am inspired by indigenous leaders and land protectors throughout the world who respect and honor the Earth, who fight to protect the living world from harm, and who build lives and communities that support human and more-than-human flourishing. We do not have to continually create a world based on exploitation and extraction; we can live and relate differently, starting today. I was privileged to learn that directly from forest and river protectors fighting to save the Amazon rainforest from deforestation, mining, and oil extraction. I aim to build projects and programs that also impart this lesson: that each of us are part of the Earth, that we can live and act in ways that continually restore its vitality, and that this is fundamentally a joyous task.

Tell us about a time you felt the most proud of your work.

I feel very proud to know that, through

the Wild Visions Habitat Creation Challenge, college students across the DMV created nearly 6,000 square feet of new wildlife habitat, both on campus and out in the community. I am proud that we helped 13 local student groups carry out impactful earth-care projects, teaching them about the importance (and simplicity!) of biodiversity renewal and helping them connect with the land beneath their feet.

And I am so proud of the students who created such exciting and unique gardens through this challenge. We just provided the prompt and the plants—and the students created these beautiful designs; they built benches and educational signage; they engaged community partners and fellow students; they incorporated bird houses, water features, and painted stones into the spaces; they developed long-term maintenance plans…Really, they all went above and beyond, which is exciting because it means we’re onto something with Wild Visions.

What is Wild Visions, and where do you see it heading in the future?

The Wild Visions Habitat Creation Challenge is a challenge that we at Garden for Wildlife sent out to college students across the DMV metro area.

We invited them to design and plant native gardens in their communities, using free plants donated from our Plant Bank.

In this first year, we had 13 student groups from seven different universities participate. We provided them with plants and project development support, and had an amazing panel of judges evaluate the gardens based on things like their design, impact, habitability, etc. We recognized outstanding gardens at our PLANTYs Awards Ceremony two weekends ago with custom birdbaths. Together, we created nearly 6,000 square feet of new wildlife habitat in our city.

It was energizing to see how many

students and community partners rallied around Wild Visions. We validated our initial hunch: that people—young people in particular—are eager to transform the urban environment; to make it more habitable, more beautiful, and more alive. We hope to build out a network of community partners in advance of the next Wild Visions, so that more gardens will be planted in the spaces that really need them. In general, we hope to continue Wild Visions in the years to come, unleashing wave after wave of biodiversity renewal across the city.

Who is your motivating figure?

I have some amazing female mentors and friends: Leah Green, Elise Sheffield, Gabriela Aguilar, Alisha Kendrik-Pradhan, and my mother, Ashley Bull, plant lady of all plant ladies—who help me to believe in the world as it could be. Each in their own way has taught me that accepting the world “business-as-usual” is just plain silly, that we are all capable of responding to the earth in this moment of crisis, and that we should be proud of what we can imagine and work to make that more beautiful world a reality.

What’s a message you want to get across to our readers?

The Earth needs us to respond. We’ve lost 70% of global wildlife populations in just 50 years and we simply cannot

continue as if that weren’t happening. There is so much to do—so much that can be done—when we choose to step into response-ability.

One of the most simple, impactful, and rewarding things that you can do is choose to turn your yard into habitat. Plant natives. Shrink your lawn and share your world.

And I’ve just got to say: When you choose to buy your native plants from Garden for Wildlife, you’re not only creating habitat in your backyard, but also in public spaces across the country through programs like Wild Visions. We’re building a people-powered biodiversity-renewal movement, and we’d love you to be a part of it.

How can our readers contact you?

Email me at bullr@gardenforwildlife. com! I’m excited to talk native plants, Wild Visions, wildlife gardening, biodiversity renewal, solarpunk world-building, and more! I would be especially interested in hearing from readers about ideas for next year’s Wild Visions! o

Hannah Zozobrado is a senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This spring semester, she is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

The Urban Garden: 101 Ways to Grow Food and Beauty in the City is all about small-space gardening solutions!

By Kathy Jentz and Teresa Speight

Published by Cool Springs Press/Quarto Homes

Order it today at: https://amzn.to/3yiLPKU

GardenDC Podcast

The GardenDC podcast is all about gardening in the greater Washington, DC, and Mid-Atlantic area. The program is hosted by Kathy Jentz, editor of Washington Gardener Magazine, and features guest experts in local and national horticulture. The latest episodes include interviews with experts on Epimediums, Urban Agriculture, and Dogwoods. You can listen online at https:// washingtongardener.blogspot.com/ or on Spotify, Apple, etc. o

This interview has been edited for length and clarity.

Photo of the Wild Visions planting day on April 22, 2024, at the University of Maryland, College Park, is by Sydney Walsh. Rosalie Bull is pictured third from the right.

Nat ive Azaleas

By Kathy Jentz

Native Azaleas (Rhododendron sp.) are flowering shrubs that are found in the woodlands on the East Coast of the USA. They do best in light, dappled sunlight.

One of the most striking characteristics of native azaleas is their strong, sweet fragrance, which is often compared to that of honeysuckles. The flowers also resemble clusters of honeysuckle blossoms. Hence, the common name for native azaleas of Wild Honeysuckle.

Native azaleas are deciduous—dropping their leaves in fall, while the Japanese and Korean azaleas are mainly evergreen, as are most of their hybrids. Native azaleas prefer moist, well-drained, acidic soil that is high in organic matter.

The Piedmont azalea (Rhododendron canescens) or the Southern pinxter azalea is native from the Carolinas south to Florida and west to east Texas. The flowers are shades of white, pink, and red. It can grow to 10 feet wide and high and has an airy, open growing habit. It is hardy to USDA Zones 5–9.

The Pinxterbloom azalea (Rhododendron periclymenoides) is similar to the Piedmont azalea, but thrives in a more northern native range, from Massachusetts to north Georgia and over to Tennessee. It is hardy to USDA Zones 4–8 and grows to 5 feet tall and wide.

Shown here, t the Florida flame azalea (Rhododendron austrinum) is native to northern Florida and other far-southern states. It grows to 8 to 10 feet tall and has yellow, orange, red, or pink blooms. It’s hardy to USDA Zones 6–9.

The Alabama azalea (Rhododendron alabamense) is native to Alabama and Georgia. It grows 5 to 6 feet tall. It has blossoms that are white with yellow blotches. It is hardy to USDA Zones 7–9.

The Sweet azalea (Rhododendron arborescens) can grow to 10–20 feet tall. It is native to the Appalachians from Pennsylvania to Alabama, It has white blossoms with red stamens. It is hardy to USDA Zones 4–7.

Native birds (especially hummingbirds), bees, butterflies, and other wildlife are attracted to these shrubs and their amazing flowers. o

Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener

Have You Seen This Bug?

Red-Headed Flea Beetle

By Carol Allen

If you grow eggplant, you are probably familiar with flea beetles: tiny (1/10" or about 2.5 mm or about the size of the “m” in millimeter), shiny black insects that can be present in high numbers and very rapidly jump out of reach. They chew small holes in eggplant leaves and can quickly decrease the vigor of the plant.

In the vegetable garden, one or more of three different species of flea beetles can be responsible for the damage: eggplant flea beetle (Epitrix fuscula), pale-striped flea beetle (Systena blanda), or potato flea beetle (Epitrix cucumeris) and there are others! They all look very similar.

You may not be familiar with the newest “Wanted Dead or Alive” garden pest, the red-headed flea beetle (Systena frontalis). Like the other beetles mentioned here, the red-headed flea beetle (RHFB) is native to North America, specifically to the central states and the East Coast.

It has become a serious pest in nurseries because it will feed on a

wide range of woody plants, including Hydrangea, Itea, Rhododendron, Rosa, Forsythia, and many others. Nearby weeds can also harbor the insects. In the nursery, control of Pigweed (Amaranth sp), Jewelweed (Impatiens capensis), Canada Thistle (Cirsium arvense), and others will help.

The insects overwinter underground in the egg stage and the larvae feed on the roots of the host plant. The larvae become active in pot-grown plants when the Black Locust trees are in bloom or between 250 to 480 GDD50.*

They emerge as adults when Southern Magnolias or Winterberry are in bloom (517 to 1028 GDD50). There are three generations in the Mid-Atlantic in container-grown nursery crops, but only one generation for plants grown inground.

In the nursery, where large blocks of vulnerable plants are grown, effective control has been limited to foliar or soil-applied pesticides. Research is now being done that is exploring more

sustainable methods such as the application of the entomopathogenic nematode (Steinernema carpocapsae) to control the larval stage. Applications of the entomopathogenic fungi Beauveria bassiana and Metarhizium anisophliae have also been trialed for larval control. How is this going to affect the homeowner? RHFB might be brought home in container-grown plants. Be especially watchful if those plants wintered over in their pots. Foliar applications of azadiractin and other pesticides can be sprayed to control the adults when they emerge later in the season. Read and heed all label directions. The label is the law.

Right now, the larvae will be feeding on the small roots at the edge of the root ball. The larvae are creamy-white in color, have brown head-capsules, and six legs near the head, and are 2/10 to 4/10" long. They are lightsensitive and will rapidly move deeper into the root ball. Right now, applications of Steinernema or Beauvaria would be warranted. o

Carol Allen describes herself as a committable plant-a-holic. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the horticulture industry, with a special interest in plant pests and diseases; is a Licensed Pesticide Applicator in the state of Maryland; and is an ISACertified Arborist. She can be contacted at carolallen@erols.com.

*Growing Degree Days are calculated starting on January 1 and use the daily average of the maximum and minimum temperature, then subtract the base temperature of 50 degrees Fahrenheit. For each degree above 50, a growing degree-day is accumulated. Growing degree-days take into account weather variables that cause earlier or later activity.

Photo credit: Red-headed Flea Beetle by xpda, CC BY-SA 4.0 <https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0>, via Wikimedia Commons.

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The ad deadline is the 10th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: KathyJentz@gmail.com

Gold Medal Plants for Home Gardens in the Mid-Atlantic Region

The Pennsylvania Horticultural Society (PHS) has shared its list of 2024 Gold Medal Plant winners, now available to the public through most garden retailers. The Gold Medal Plant Program was created by PHS in 1979 to celebrate and showcase beautiful, easy-to-grow plant species that are ideal for home gardening. Each year, a committee of horticulture experts convenes to assess trees, shrubs, and perennials on various criteria, including suitability for home gardens in the Mid-Atlantic region, ease of cultivation, ready commercial availability, wildlife value, weather-tolerance, and pest-resistance.

• Asparagus officinalis ‘Millennium’ One of the highest-yielding asparagus on the market, Asparagus officinalis ‘Millennium’ is a stem vegetable that produces uniform, tight-tipped, tender spears with excellent flavor. It is hardy and easy to grow. It prefers full sun and loose, organically rich, evenly moist, sandy, well-drained soil. In addition to the edible shoots, it produces attractive ferny foliage that turns yellow in the fall before going dormant in winter. Asparagus officinalis ‘Millennium’ grows up to 3–5 ft. tall and 1–3 ft. wide. It is disease-, deer-, and drought-resistant and grows in hardiness zones 3–10.

• Illicium ‘Woodland Ruby’ Shrub ‘Woodland Ruby’, commonly known as the Florida anise tree, has deepreddish, strap-like flowers creating an extended period of bloom beginning in early summer and lasting through fall. It requires protection from winter winds and is happiest in some shade, but will tolerate more sun given enough moisture. It grows well in numerous settings, especially in city gardens, where space and light are issues. It is deer-resistant, attracts pollinators, and is fragrant. At its mature height of 6–7 ft., it is a good choice for a screen or backdrop. It is hardy in zones 6–9.

• Magnolia ‘Genie’ Tree

This is a perfect choice for small-space gardens. It has an incredible spring flowering display of eye-catching red to purple, scented flowers; long-lived and easy to care for with repeat blooms through the growing season. Its narrow

columnar form fits anywhere and it can be grown in an extra-large container. Plant Magnolia ‘Genie’ in sun to part shade in slightly acidic, moist, fertile, well-drained soils. Amend with compost when planting and keep well-watered. It reaches only 10–13 ft. tall and 5 ft. wide. It is hardy in zones 5–8.

• Cephalanthus occidentalis Sugar Shack® Shrub

This selection of buttonbush is a more compact version of native Cephalanthus and good for small-space gardens. Its fragrant, white, globe-like flowers are prominent in the summer and followed by burgundy foliage in the fall and red fruit in the winter. It is easily grown in moist, humus soils in full sun to part shade. Cephalanthus attracts a variety of pollinators and can grow to 5 ft. tall and wide at maturity. It is hardy in zones 4–8.

• Iris tectorum Perennial

The common name for Iris tectorum is Japanese roof iris. It grows well in organically rich, medium-moist, welldrained soil in full sun to part shade. It benefits from the shelter of a wall with western or southern exposure and winter mulch. It has beautiful, showy flowers in shades of lavender-blue, blush-violet, and blue-lilac. Its foliage is arranged in fans of narrow, lanceshaped, ribbed, glossy, upright leaves. It can spread rapidly in the garden. It is deer-resistant and grows 12–18 inches tall in maturity. It is hardy in zones 6–9.

• Tiarella cordifolia ‘Brandywine’ Perennial

‘Brandywine’ foamflower is an earlyseason, long-blooming, native perennial introduced by Sinclair Adams at Dunvegan Nursery in West Chester, PA. It thrives in part to full shade and works well in both dry and moist soils. The leaves have red hues and turn bronze in the fall. Its lovely spiked white flowers sit above the ground-hugging foliage and stay in bloom for two months. It attracts specialist bee species and other pollinators, and it is great for small-space gardens, containers, and window boxes. It combines well with other shade-loving plants. It is deerresistant and grows to 8–18 inches tall when it is in flower. It is hardy in zones 4–8. o

Grow Happiness with Flowering Summer Bulbs

Once spring bloomers have finished flowering, summer bulbs lend your garden a new look. Thanks to their long blooming period, you can enjoy the flowers for weeks or even months. Summerflowering bulbs often attract pollinating insects as well, and thus contribute to biodiversity in your garden. You can remove any wilted flowers to extend the flowering period.

Some summer bulbs, such as gladioli and dahlias, can be dug up after flowering and stored inside in a frost-free area such as a basement or garage. You can then plant them again the following spring.

There are plenty of types of summer bulbs to choose from. The bestknown ones are gladioli, dahlias, lilies, and begonias, but also check out other unusual bulbous plants such as calla (Zantedeschia), pineapple lilies (Eucomis), freesias (Freesia), or blazing star (Liatris).

Choose your favorite bulbs and plant them on a lovely spring day in a sunny border, flowerbed, or spacious planter. Check the packaging for the ideal location, since some varieties will also thrive in partial shade.

Make sure the soil is well-drained and improve the soil with compost to encourage growth. Plant the bulbs at the right depth as indicated on the packaging.

More information is available at www. flowerbulbs.com. o

New Plant Spotlight

Geum TEMPO™ ‘Coral’

Geum TEMPO™ ‘Coral’ is an exciting addition to the popular TEMPO™ series with an abundance of bright, coral-red flowers.

This deciduous perennial displays a fast, clumping habit and grows most actively in spring, blooming April through June with reblooms occurring in the summer.

Special attributes of Geum ‘Coral’ include being deerresistant and a strong pollinator attractor.

This stunning perennial offers immense landscape value for borders, mixed beds, and edges. It requires full sun as well as moist, loamy soil. USDA Hardiness Zones for TEMPO ‘Coral’ are 5–9 with its most active growing season being in the spring, topping out at a height of 7", width of 10", and flower height of 12".

Learn more: www.terranovanurseries.com/product/ geum-empo-coral. o

Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts

• Reduce Your Lawn

• Local Garden Tours

• Aronia Plant Profile

• Rainy Days

See more Washington Gardener blog posts at WashingtonGardener.blogspot.com o

May–June Garden To-Do List

• If you started seeds last month, thin them and start the hardening-off process.

• Cut back spent Tulip and Daffodil blooms, but not the foliage!

• Divide and replant crowded Daffodils.

• Feed your roses and new plantings sparingly with slow-release fertilizer.

• Provide supports for fast-growing perennials such as delphiniums, peonies, and lilies.

• Tie up clematis and other fast-growing climbing vines.

• Hose off aphids, white flies, or spider mites on your roses or other perennials.

• Deadhead spent blooms on your annuals and perennials to encourage re-flowering.

• Water your newly planted shrubs, trees, and perennials.

• Weed regularly.

• Go on a local house and garden tour to see what plants are thriving in other area home gardens.

• Pinch back mums, salvias, and other late-season bloomers to encourage bushy, rather than leggy, growth.

• Check pots and containers daily for water needs.

• Plant dahlias, gladioli, caladiums, and cannas.

• Direct-sow annual flower seeds.

• Thin vegetable seeds sown directly in the garden.

• Move your houseplants outdoors for a summer vacation.

• Put slug traps around your vulnerable edibles and hostas.

• Prune back forsythia, spirea, and other early-spring blooming shrubs.

• Check for black spot on your roses—remove and discard any affected leaves in the trash, never back into your garden or in your compost—and apply a fungicide with Neem oil every two weeks during the growing season.

• Cut some flowers to enjoy inside—make a small arrangement for every room.

• Sow squash and melon seeds.

• Plant seedlings or direct-sow sweet potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants.

• Fertilize azaleas and rhododendrons, if needed.

• Divide crowded perennials and share them.

• Turn your compost pile.

• Start a water garden or renew an existing one for the season.

• Mark and photograph your bulb plantings now, while they are still visible.

• Keep a sharp eye out for fungal diseases and pests.

• Replace cool-season annuals with heat-loving ones.

• Be vigilant for mosquito breeding spots—any standing water, from a bottle-cap to blocked gutters—and clean them out immediately. Ask your surrounding neighbors to do the same. Put Mosquito Dunks in any areas that accumulate water.

• Plant tomatoes and peppers. To start them off right, put in cages/stakes at same time as you plant them, so you do not disturb their roots later. Place a collar (cardboard tube or hollowed cat-food can) around the tender plants to prevent cutworms. Put crushed eggshells in the planting hole of tomatoes for extra calcium and mix lime into the soil surrounding the plant to prevent blossom-end rot. Fertilize with kelp extract or fish emulsion.

• Hand-pick cabbage worms from cabbage and broccoli. o

TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS

Classes, Events, and Plant Shows/Sales

• Monday, May 20

First Annual Reduce Your Lawn Day! See details at reduceyourlawnday.com.

• Wednesday, May 22

Spring Garden Party 2024

Held at Tudor Place. Details soon at https://tudorplace.org/.

• Friday, May 24, 10–11:30am Tomato Disease and Other Things that Ooze in the Garden

A free webinar hosted by the Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia. Register for link at https://mgnv.org/.

• Saturday, May 25, 9:30–11:30am Guided Forest Bathing Walks

Held at Hillwood Estate, Museum and Gardens in Washington, DC. There is a fee to attend and you must register at https://hillwoodmuseum.org/.

• Saturday, May 25, 9:30am–3pm Baltimore Herb Festival

Held at Leakin Park. Tickets required. Details at https://www.baltimoreherbfestival.com.

• Saturday. May 25, and Sunday, May 26

Arlington Rose Foundation

Annual Rose & Photography Show

Held at Merrifield Garden Center—Fair Oaks, 12101 Lee Highway, Fairfax, VA.

• May 25–27, Memorial Day Weekend

3rd Annual Art in Nature Festival

Held at the National Botanic Garden near Chantilly, VA. Register for tickets at https://nationalbotanicgarden.org/artin-nature-festival.

• Tuesday, May 28, 9:30–11:30am The Trees of Ladew Walk Towson University Professor Vanessa Beauchamp, will lead walkers on an exploration of the trees at Ladew Gardens. Learn how to identify various species of trees and discover other fun facts along the way. Held at Ladew Gardens in Monkton, MD. There is a fee and you must register at https://ladewgardens.com/.

•Tuesday, May 28, 7pm Plants for Pollinators: Getting Reliably Safe Plants

Wondering how to ensure the plants you buy are safe for pollinators from the start? Sharon Selvaggio, pesticide program specialist at the Xerces Society, will discuss why choosing pollinator-safe nurseries is important, what drives the nursery industry’s use of pesticides, and how plant buyers can evaluate nursery practices. She will also introduce Xerces’ new adoptable contract grow model for obtaining pollinator-safe native plants in quantity. Free Zoom meeting. Register at http://www. mdflora.org/event-5730061.

• Thursday, May 30, 1–4pm Maryland Rose Show

Hosted by the Maryland Rose Society At the Cylburn Arboretum in Baltimore, MD. Free to attend.

• Saturday, June 1, 10am–4pm 5th Annual Plant Sale Fundraiser

The Farmyard is partnering with the American Landscape Institute (ALI) to offer its sale of a variety of plants, tools, and other gardening items. Students and board members of the ALI will be available to help answer questions. For more information, visit https://thefarmyardllc.farm/ali-plant-sale/.

• Friday, June 7, 12n–1pm

Groundcovers: Great Alternative to Turf Grass

An online lecture by Kathy Jentz, author of Groundcover Revolution, hosted by the U.S. Botanic Garden. Groundcovers are low-growing plants that serve many purposes in the landscape. These lovely low-growers limit weed growth, stabilize slopes, add texture to your garden, and more! Jentz will cover several of these beautiful, hard-working plants, including several native plant selections. Free. Register at https://usbg.swoogo.com/ Groundcovers-Jun24.

• Saturday, June 8, 11am–1pm

Grow the Garden Party

A picnic party to celebrate the newly expanded Washington Youth Garden at the U.S. National Arboretum in Wash-

ington, DC. The garden has a beautiful new honeycomb fence around it that expands the growing space and makes the garden more inviting, visible, and accessible. Bring a blanket and your own picnic, or enjoy lunch from one of the food truck vendors that will be at the garden. This is a free, family-friendly event. Please RSVP at https://www. fona.org/ to get event updates.

• Thursday, June 13, 2–3pm

The Urban Garden: Ways to Grow Food in the City

Curious about how to grow food and beauty in a city? Join this free webinar hosted by Green America to learn how to turn your growing dreams into reality and build a gorgeous and unique garden that showcases your personal style while still being functional and productive. Kathy Jentz and Teri Speight, authors of The Urban Garden, are the featured speakers of this inspiring and practical webinar. Register at https://us02web.zoom. us/webinar/register/2117092225285/ WN_mJYHEV8QSHi3UBCP59ZeyQ#/registration.

Looking Ahead

• Sunday, July 14, 11am–1pm

Garlic Festival

Held at the Takoma Park Farmers Market in Takoma Park, MD. Details TBA.

• Sunday, August 2, 2–3:30pm

Opening Reception for Washington Gardener Garden Photo Show

Held at Meadowlark Botanical Gardens in Vienna, VA. Free. Details TBA.

Event Listing Updates

See updated event listings on the Washington Gardener discussion list. Join by emailing WashingtonGardenersubscribe@googlegroups.com.

How to Submit Events

To submit an event for this listing, email washingtongardenermagazine@gmail. com with “Event” in the subject line. Our next deadline is June 5 for the June 2024 issue, for events taking place after June 15, 2024. o

Living Stones: Rock Your World!

By Savannah Scollar

Intuitive, eye-catching, and low-maintenance: Living stones have taken root, securing themselves as one of my favorite houseplants. I was hesitant to grow them at first. Some articles will tell you they’re challenging, giving all sorts of confusing and unnecessary instructions. The truth is, there’s no need to follow the seasons or memorize a schedule. These plants will tell you, very visibly, when they’re in need of something to drink.

My controversial method of caring for these plants has resulted in a total of zero overwatering incidents in a group of 305 plants. Despite this, I worry I’ll be burned at the stake for going so strongly against the grain. If it works, it works!

Lithops, also known as living stones, are truly incredible plants with a fascinating lifestyle. They are masters of camouflage, bearing little resemblance to the leafy greens that a cat or dog would be tempted to chew on. At the same time, lithops are non-toxic, just in case your furry friend finds them strangely appetizing.

On taking a closer look, you’ll discover how serious these plants are about hide-and-seek. There are more than 37 naturally occurring species, with specialized colors and patterns, blending in perfectly with the specific rocks in their native South African habitats.

In addition to these species, there are more than 145 hybrids to collect. They comprise a nearly complete rainbow of options: red, purple, green, pink, orange, beige, cream, gray, and yellow—even baby-blue!

I like to keep these plants in tiny containers from thrift shops and antiques stores. Lithops grow incredibly slowly, so you can keep them in tiny, cute con-

tainers for years and years. People will tell you they need deep pots with drainage, but that’s far from the truth. These plants can be crowded up against one another or propped up with decorations, chunky soil pieces, or rocks. They show their true colors and grow their best when placed somewhere nice and sunny.

I use my regular soil mix for my lithops: the same thing I use for every other houseplant I grow. It’s two scoops of compost, 4 scoops of coconut coir, and 6 scoops of coconut husk chunks. Especially for smaller plants like these, I shred the coconut chunks by hand. I take the pieces, each about the size of a penny, and tear them up, following the grain of the fibers and turning them into little bits, closer to the size of a pea. By using a soil mix with organic matter and excellent airflow, I’m able to skip the stinky fertilizer. The compost slowly releases all the food the plant needs.

Here’s my special watering technique, the moment you’ve all been waiting for: When do I water? When the sides of the plant start to wrinkle. That’s it! I use a very small amount of water, applied with a pipette. These plants really don’t need much at all, and if you overdo it, they can crack like an overwatered tomato. Fully saturating the soil, as with most indoor plants, is a huge gamble on whether or not your plants will rot. It’s common advice, but it’s totally not worth it. If your plant doesn’t drink enough water in time, the roots won’t be able to get the air they need and the plant will start to die. I find it funny that people will say these plants need low humidity. Some of these plants actually sustain themselves from the fog and occasional

humid air in their natural habitats. I’ve managed to grow lithops in a closed terrarium, with the teeniest amount of water for moisture. When you’re growing lithops from seed, they do need humidity and do well in a container with a lid.

Growing from seed is an entire endeavor, though. It’ll take years to get substantial plants out of it. If you’re buying seeds, you’ll want to look at the reviews to find photos of the baby plants being grown successfully and identifiably as the type of plant they’re supposed to be. Scammers will send random seeds that’ll sprout, but won’t grow into the right type of plant. People will leave positive reviews before they realize their “lithops” are actually alfalfa. Make sure you see those baby lithops photos for proof! This advice is really important for ordering seeds in general, unless you’re buying from a well-known and reputable brand.

When you order lithops online, they tend to arrive without soil or substantial roots. If you get busy, you can wait a few days to plant them; it’s not very urgent. Prices for these unplanted lithops range from $2–$15 per head, depending on how big the plant is and how desirable the variety is.

You’ll notice that, at some point, your lithops will start shedding its skin like a snake. During this time, you won’t want to water your plant at all. It’ll be hard at work, absorbing moisture from its old leaves instead. This shedding is really excellent—any accidental damage on your plant will peel away, giving you a clean start. Even more exciting are the flowers. I’ve yet to see them in person, but I’m definitely looking forward to the day my living stones start to bloom. I’m even more excited to harvest the seeds.

I could go on and on about these plants, really. There’s so much to explore and so much to learn—that’s what makes gardening so much fun! o

Savannah Scollar opened Easy Little Plants in July 2023 at age 21. It’s a houseplant shop in Olney, MD. She loves doing research, teaching private workshops, decorating with houseplants, and arranging adorable terrariums. Contact her through her website: easylittleplants.com.

Sandy Spring Horticultural History

By Cassie Peo

The Sandy Spring Museum was founded as a local museum to preserve the history and culture of the area surrounding Sandy Spring, MD. Today, the museum supports community-driven cultural arts and educational programs, and is a place where the community can build a sense of belonging while better understanding their history and the importance of horticulture.

Located in the heart of historic Sandy Spring, less than 20 miles from Washington, DC, the museum’s main courtyard, garden area, and grounds offer a unique backdrop for events such as weddings, anniversary parties, graduations, family gatherings, celebrations of life, and museum events.

The museum sits on seven acres that were donated by local resident Helen Bentley, whose ancestors moved to Sandy Spring in the late 1700s. The garden is maintained by Sandy Spring Garden Club (SSGC) volunteers weekly and visitors are welcome to stroll around the garden any time they’d like to visit, according to staff and garden club members.

The theme of the garden, according to the SSGC, is centered on the use of attractive and native plants that are readily available. Plants that bloom all summer are preferred by the SSGC, and annuals are used to add color

when the native plants have finished blooming. Everyone who joins the Sandy Spring Museum gets an automatic membership in the Sandy Spring Garden Club, but you do not have to be a member to volunteer.

The SSGC is involved with many kinds of activities and events, such as wreath-making during the holidays, hosting educational programs, sponsoring trips, and hosting a biannual, self-guided Sandy Spring Garden Tour, that involves walking through four local gardens on display. The 2024 Garden Tour was on Saturday, May 18.

“There is such a great history in Sandy Spring with horticulture,” said Jeffrey Ross, the President of the Board of Directors of the Sandy Spring Museum. Ross also writes a column for the Greater Olney News The publication is available online and free at many local area libraries.

In the column, Ross records the minutes of the Horticultural Society of Sandy Spring from 100 years ago. The society was created in 1863 and, according to Ross, many of the topics covered then are similar to what people are interested in today, like how to kill moles or get rid of poison ivy or oak. Ross said the minutes for the meetings 100 years ago are always interesting because “the Quakers were very edu-

cated and intellectually stimulated, so they would always bring very interesting articles to read at the meetings.”

At Horticultural Society of Sandy Spring meetings today, which run from April to October, Ross reads the minutes and articles from 100 years ago, then the group does something called “Forethought,” where they discuss what they should be doing in their gardens that month. There is also a “Critter Report” and a Q&A. Ross said that many of the questions are also similar to those asked 100 years ago, like what to do if a tree breaks in half or whether grass should be plowed or tilled.

Ross started this Greater Olney News column just over a year ago and, in the offseason when the Horticultural Society does not meet, does a lot of research and interviews about a variety of horticulture topics. The meeting minutes transcriptions have been digitized and are kept in the Sandy Spring Museum Archives.

Quaker History

Sandy Spring was founded by Quakers in the early 1800s when most people were farmers and quickly had their own gardens or farms and horticulture became an important part of Sandy Spring’s way of life.

In 1981, volunteers looking to preserve the history of Sandy Spring started the museum in the basement of the Sandy Spring Bank. They collected artifacts and hosted lectures about local history until the museum itself could be established in 1997, according to the official Sandy Spring Museum website (www.sandyspringmuseum.org).

This group of volunteers also started the Strawberry Festival, which has become part of the community’s history as well. While it is not being held this year, the Strawberry Festival was a local family favorite and drew people from all over to celebrate community and fun.

However, the Strawberry Festival has outgrown the museum. According to Ross, the festival used to be “much more focused on the local history and folklore, or folk-life in the community, and grew to a huge event with over 25,000 people attending… it just evolved into more of a carnival, while

the mission/vision of the museum is more about arts and humanities that support social justice and connectivity of different cultures.”

There has also been a gradual loss of volunteers, and the Sandy Spring Museum staff cannot run the festival alone. According to the museum website, they “want the community’s help in shaping the festival moving forward.” To be involved in the discussion, help out, or volunteer, email info@sandyspringmuseum.org to get involved with the 2025 Strawberry Festival.

How to Visit

Having a museum in town that creates a sense of community and preserves the history of Sandy Spring is important and allows for many different meaningful social and cultural experiences in the community.

To visit the museum and its gardens, admission is free. The museum is open Sunday 12–4pm, and Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 10am–4pm. The museum is at 17901 Bentley Road in Sandy Spring, MD. o

Cassie Peo is a senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. She looks forward to helping her mom tend their garden during the summer back home in New Jersey. This spring semester, she is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

Summer Squash

By Barbara Melera

Squash is one of the seed varieties that are nearly always planted too early and therefore encounter problems that they should not have. The other seed varieties in this category are winter squash, melons, and pumpkins.

Plant Late to Avoid the Squash Vine Borer

Many novice gardeners are lured by the evil “the earlier the better” preachings into starting squash seeds indoors— sometimes as early as March or April. Don’t do this. For those of us in USDA Hardiness Zones 5–7, mid- to lateJune is ideal. For those in Zones 8–10, March is ideal and sometimes you can get a second planting starting in late July or early August. For those of in Zones 3–4, early to mid-June is ideal. By planting too early, you gain absolutely nothing in terms of a speedy harvest. Squash should always be directseeded when the soil has warmed considerably. Summer squash, like winter squash, pumpkins, melons, watermelons, and zinnias, do not like cool, damp soil. The closer your soil temperature is to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the happier your seeds will be.

This means that squash should be planted in mid- to late-June, this will avoid many insect and fungal problems.

One of the most ubiquitous and discouraging problems is the Squash Borer. In another three weeks. I will be inundated with calls from desperate gardeners asking if there is any way to protect their squash plants from squash borers.

Well, there is, but most callers do not like the answer.

The way to protect your squash from squash borers is to plant the squash, from direct-sown seed, in late June. Squash Borers are native to the U.S., east of the Rocky Mountains. The borer is the larva stage of the Clearwing Moth, a wasplike insect with coppergreen forewings and an orange and black abdomen. The borer winters over in a cocoon located an inch or two below the surface of the soil.

The Clearwing Moth hatches out of its cocoon when the squash begins to vine and lays single, oval, brown eggs on the stems and leaf stalks of the vine.The borers hatch in about a week and tunnel into the vine to eat. After feeding for 4–6 weeks, the borer returns to the soil

where it builds a cocoon and rests for the winter.

Another deterrent is to plant radishes and nasturtiums in your squash patch. The Clearwing Moth does not like either of these two plants, especially the radish. We heartily recommend planting radishes with your squash plants.

Other companion plantings, such as spearmint, peppermint, catnip, and tansy, are suggested deterrents for squash bugs. However, spearmint, peppermint, and tansy are far too invasive unless you plant them in pots, and we all know how much cats love catnip and adore rolling in a patch of it. If you want flattened squash plants, add catnip to your squash garden.

Zucchini is Born

One of the recent developments in the squash family is the zucchini! Yes, that is correct. A little more than 100 years ago, there were no zucchinis; today, it is the world’s most popular squash.

Amy Goldman once wrote, “It’s almost impossible to describe the taste of something (summer squash) that has none—until it is sautéed in garlic and olive oil…”

This is all that can be said about the flavor of zucchinis until the sautéing has begun…and then the flavor that is aroused through this gentle cooking process is addicting, so much so that now, generations of people throughout the planet never pass a summer without consuming the marvelous zucchini.

In 1901, in Milan, Italy, a long, slender, cylindrical, dark-green squash borne on a bush plant was offered for sale in the Italian marketplace. As with most squash, it is believed that this “zucchini,” which literally means “little squash” in Italian, was the result of a fortuitous, but accidental, cross-pollination. It became instantly popular and was probably brought to the U.S. by Italian immigrants soon after its introduction in Milan.

Zucchinis have a very specific definition. A zucchini is uniformly cylindrical with little or no taper. Its length to greatest width ratio equals or exceeds 3.5 and tops out at 5.0. No kidding!! Cocozelles, which many of us think are just striped zucchinis, are not striped zucchinis. While a zucchini’s optimum length is approximately 8 inches, a cocozelle’s optimum length is 4–6 inches.

Zucchini ‘Black Beauty’, pictured on the opposite page, is one of the oldest zucchini varieties. It is best picked when 6–8 inches long, but remains tender and flavorful when larger. Its flesh is so deep-green that it often appears black. If allowed to grow beyond its reasonable dimensions, it makes great zucchini bread.

The Heirloom Cocozelle

Unlike the zucchini, the cocozelles (most of which look like striped zucchinis to most of us) have been known and cultivated since the Renaissance. The varieties are usually specific to a town or region in Italy, like ‘Lunga di Toscana’, ‘Genovese’, and ‘Alberello di Sarzane’.

In Europe, the cocozelles and the zucchinis are often referred to as gourds. If left to harden and dry some, but not all, varieties may behave as gourds.

In 1885, the famous French seedhouse Vilmorin-Andrieux described the cocozelles in this way: “All through Italy where this Gourd is very commonly grown, the fruit is eaten quite young, when it is hardly the size of a small

Cucumber, sometimes even before the flower has opened, when the ovary, which is scarcely as long or as thick as the finger, is gathered for use. The plants, which are thus deprived of their undeveloped fruits, continue to flower for several months profusely, each producing a great number of young Gourds, which, gathered in that state, are exceedingly tender and delicately flavored.”

Cocozelles are harvested when they are 4–6 inches long and often with their flowers attached, as you can see from the picture above, which was taken in a marketplace in a small town near Siena, Italy. They are usually fried, not sautéed.

Early Prolific Yellow Straightneck

A truly North American squash, the Straightnecks were introduced in the 1890s. They were a mutation from the Early Yellow Crooknecks that was then developed. The 4–8 oz. vivid-yellow fruit are borne on very productive vines. The pale-yellow flesh has an excellent flavor.

The Heirloom White Bush Scallop

Some members of the family of squash known as scallops or pattypans are among the oldest known squash. The White Bush Scallop was grown by Native Americans long before the coming of any Europeans to the Americas. It

By Kathy Jentz

Published by Cool Springs Press Order it today at:

“Groundcover Revolution is must-have book for anyone who is interested in having less lawn, fewer weeds, and reduced mulching. The properties charts will save the reader time and money, the pictures provide inspiration, while the detailed plant portraits give the focused information needed for creating beautiful, functional landscapes.” ―C.L. Fornari, GardenLady.com

“Inspire.

Connect. Grow.”

The National Garden Bureau is a nonprofit organization that exists to educate, inspire, and motivate people to increase the use of garden seed, plants, and products in homes, gardens, and workplaces by being the marketing arm of the gardening industry. Our members are experts in the field of horticulture and our information comes directly from these sources. Find out more at https://ngb.org/

was known in Europe before the 1600s. This squash is also called “symnel” or “cymling.”

Like zucchinis, the scallops are borne on bush plants, which are very productive, and they do not take up much room in the garden. Unlike zucchinis, which are usually prepared by sautéing, pattypans are usually baked.

White Bush Scallops mature very quickly, usually in 45–55 days. They are best when harvested at 5–7 inches in diameter. They will toughen if allowed to remain on the bush too long.

The Heirloom Yellow Bush Scallop

The Summer Squash pictured above is the Yellow Bush Scallop. This pattypan squash was introduced before 1860. The fruits can grow to as much as 7 inches in diameter, but are best when harvested smaller.

The Yellow Bush Scallop is naturally resistant to Squash Borers, but not totally impervious to the bug. Planting seeds in late June almost ensures a healthy crop.

Squash Growing Tips

Before planting your squash seeds, work generous amounts of compost or dried manure into the soil because squash and pumpkins love rich, welldrained soil. Never crowd squash. Competition for sun, space, or nutrients will decrease the number of female flowers and thus the production.

For vining squash, build soil hills that are approximately 6–10 inches high and 2–3 feet in diameter. Plant 6–8 seeds per hill and when the seeds have sprouted, choose the four strongest seedlings and remove the rest. The seedlings require at least 12 inches between plants. For bush varieties, build smaller soil hills, 4–6 inches high and 8–12 inches in diameter.

For bush varieties, hills should be 30 inches apart. For vining varieties, hills should be 5 feet apart. Covering the hills with 6 mm black polyethylene plastic is recommended. The plastic keeps the soil warm, protects against insects and soil-borne pathogens, reduces weeding, and leads to earlier and higher yields.

Fertilize every 3–4 weeks with a fertilizer that is strong in potassium and phosphorus and low in nitrogen. TomatoTone is an excellent fertilizer for this application. Stop fertilizing when the fruit has begun to mature. Harvest summer squash when it is still young and tender—usually when the

plants are 4–8 inches long or the patty pans are 3 inches in diameter. The more you pick summer squash, they more they will produce. If the squash get overgrown, harvest and use them for baking.

Squash in Containers

Squash love containers, specifically 14inch diameter ones. Fill the pot with a soil mix that is 60% topsoil, 20% dehydrated manure, and 20% peat moss. For vining varieties, plant 4–6 seeds in a 14-inch pot once the soil temperature has risen into the 70s. For bush varieties, plant 2–3 seeds in the middle of the container. Plant the seeds 1 inch deep and water thoroughly. Once the seeds have sprouted, for vining varieties, choose the two strongest seedlings and remove the rest. For bush varieties, choose the strongest seedling and remove the rest, leaving one plant per container. Fertilize every two weeks with a fertilizer that is strong in potassium and phosphorus and low in nitrogen. TomatoTone is an excellent fertilizer for this application. Stop fertilizing when the fruit has begun to mature.

Summer Squash in Summation

Summer Squash are remarkably rich in a large number of nutrients, including Vitamins A, C, and K; manganese; magnesium; and copper. They are excellent for medleys of cooked vegetables, for soups, as an alternative to potato chips for dips, and simply consumed fresh. They are some of the exquisite treasures the garden provides us in summer. Besides being delicious, the plants, themselves, are beautiful and do well in containers.

Historically, their significance cannot be overstated. They helped feed America’s first peoples and, as America became a nation in its own right, they nourished that nation. o

Barbara Melera is president of Harvesting History (www.harvesting-history.com), a company that sells horticultural and agricultural products, largely of the heirloom variety, along with garden tools and equipment.

The Ultimate Wildlife Habitat Garden: Attract and Support Birds, Bees, and Butterflies

Author: Stacy Tornio

Publisher: Timber Press

List Price: $24.99

Order Links: https://amzn.to/450Qh2z and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9781643261423

Reviewer: Cassie Peo

The Ultimate Wildlife Habitat Garden is a beginner-friendly handbook for anyone looking to create a garden that attracts and supports wildlife. This informative guide is separated into sections about birds, butterflies, hummingbirds, bees, other wildlife, how to plan a garden, and FAQs.

Each section lists types of wildlife, how to identify them, their size, markings, sounds, habitat, nesting, diet, range (location and time of year), and tips on other things to look for when creating a wildlife habitat garden. The recommendations include plant type, hardiness, size, flower color, soil, light needs, and what each plant attracts.

Photos throughout the book provide helpful visual aids, and the section about how to plan a garden includes beautiful garden illustrations by Jenna Lechner. This book is a great starting point for beginners and avid gardeners alike to better understand how to garden to attract and support many types of wildlife.

Author Stacy Tornio is a freelance writer and award-winning author based in Milwaukee, WI, who has written 15 books about animals, nature, and gardening. Tornio worked for Birds & Blooms magazine for 10 years and is

a master gardener and master naturalist. She earned her Bachelor of Mass Communications in Journalism from the University of Wisconsin-Milwaukee.

In this book, she presents a comprehensive guide about how to cultivate a wildlife-friendly garden. For each section of wildlife, Tornio presents fullcolor photos in easy-to-follow sections and provides helpful details and tips for plant management. Her experience as a master gardener and master naturalist shine through each page as she breaks down attracting all kinds of wildlife by detailing things like different birds’ dietary and nesting habits, or providing profiles of butterflies to identify what plants each species is drawn to. She also describes the climates that various trees, shrubs, and flowers thrive in for different kinds of gardens. There is so much useful information about a variety of plants and animals that you can attract to your garden, but there are also some areas where Tornio reports that certain plants will attract birds or butterflies but does not specify which types. However, gardeners will find great tips and tricks for attracting wildlife and creating beautiful plant combinations for a variety of gardens.

After reading this book, I made plans to start putting together a hummingbird garden this summer with my family. The “Show Me How to Plan a Garden’’ section was inspiring because it showed a variety of plants to put in a hummingbird garden and how to structure and configure your garden in an aesthetically pleasing way. The illustrations were also beautiful and inspired me to draw up my own ideas for a garden. This book was very informative for a beginner like myself, because it covers everything on how to bring more wildlife and native critters to your garden and can be used by both beginners and long-time gardeners. o

Cassie Peo is a senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This spring semester, she is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

Note: These book reviews include links to Amazon.com and BookShop. org for ordering them. Washington Gardener Magazine may receive a few cents from each order placed after you click on these links.

The Book of Wild Flowers: Reflections on Favorite Plants

Author: Christopher Stocks

Illustrator: Angie Lewin

Publisher: Thames & Hudson List Price: $24.95

Order Links: https://amzn.to/4bLvbr6 and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9780500027066

Reviewer: Hannah Zozobrado

In The Book of Wild Flowers: Reflections on Favorite Plants, author Christopher Stocks and illustrator Angie Lewin partner to celebrate the natural flora native to their British coasts. The two collaborate for the second time, building on their synergy in publishing their first work, The Book of Pebbles, in 2020.

Hailing from north-east Scotland, Lewin beautifully captures the unique qualities of each of more than 20 flowers with a mix of linocut, screenprinting, watercolor, and wood engravings. Illustrations accompany Stocks’ in-depth narratives for each wildflower, painting his own picture by describing its originations, ecological significance, and even historical importance to the country.

The book is organized thoughtfully, taking the reader through the story of each wildflower one by one. Illustrations are unique in the typical botanist literature, focusing less on accuracy and realism, and more on bringing out the life intrinsic in each flower and highlighting its features.

Despite the book’s subtitle specifying favorite plants, Stocks maintains an objective tone throughout the book to educate readers and let them form their own connections with each plant. Education is sprinkled in through short anecdotes of Stocks’ fond encounters with each flower, bringing a personal touch to the book that comforts the reader.

What initially attracted me to the book was its aesthetics. As someone who has little knowledge of gardening, let alone of wildflowers, I loved how the book resembled a simple and easy children’s book with the art and illustration. It’s dainty and hand-drawn, which I found appealing. Upon opening the book, I was surprised to feel a child-like joy in reading something new and unknown. I love that The Book of Wildflowers sparked a wonder in me, and it’s likely to do the same for many other novice gardeners.

The Book of Wild Flowers is truly fit for any audience. Avid botanists will appreciate the depth-of-thought and genetic and historical explanation Stocks grants each flower. Casual lovers of nature will enjoy the book’s aesthetics and informative summaries as a tableside-read. o

Hannah Zozobrado is a senior in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism at the University of Maryland. This spring semester, she is an intern at Washington Gardener Magazine

What Makes a Garden: A Considered Approach to Garden Design

Author: Jinny Blom

Publisher: Frances Lincoln

Order Link: https://amzn.to/44PiJEF and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9780711282957

Cost: $50.00

Reviewer: Marsha Douma

Jinny Blom’s newest book is a comprehensively fascinating and uniquely thoughtful book on garden design. This is not the more usual, practical garden design book which has suggestions and templates for the beds and various flower combinations. Quite the opposite. What Makes a Garden is about the myriad elements to consider when creating a garden. The book is inclusive of so many disciplines and ideas, and

so full of fascinating and useful factoids, this review can at best, whet your appetite to read it.

Factoid: Iron hand railings and gates are black throughout England, the former British empire, and mostly all around the world, instead of the previous blueish-gray of the metal, as a sign of respect and mourning after Prince Albert, the husband and consort of Queen Victoria died.

Factoid: Soil type and whether soil is acidic or alkaline can often be determined by the kinds of plants that choose to live there. Weeds with taproots, such as dandelion, burdock, and broadleaf plantains, evolved to live in densely compacted clay soils with low nutrients and low moisture content. Mullein grows in acidic soil with low fertility. Goldenrod prefers damp, poorly draining soil. Lilacs, honeysuckle, and clematis prefer alkaline soil. Plants that prefer acidic soils tend to have harder, shinier, and leathery leaves. Alkalineloving plants have softer leaves.

Factoid: Next time your local blacktop street is yet again being resurfaced, consider that many of the roads laid down throughout the Roman empire are still being used.

The following quotes give you a feeling for the book, and ideally a sense of the total pleasure this book was to read. The author includes, in her list of essential disciplines: botany, geology, architectural principles, herbalism, phases of the moon, and all the visual arts. She essentially combines centuries of human, plant, and animal history to create her list of things to consid-

er when creating a garden. “In my view, garden-making is possibly the highest manifest form of all the arts and sciences, bringing the mutable and immutable materials of the world together and creating something unique, a living art form….Having always believed that gardens were synonymous with pleasure, I was surprised to discover that the word ‘pleasure’ only came into use in the 14th century…This book takes a somewhat circuitous journey to arrive at that state, the destination being…a garden, [which] is intended to provide quiet, shade, perfume, cool water, beauty and pleasure; all purely sensual experiences…Luckily for us gardener enthusiasts, garden-making cannot be digitized. It can’t easily be flipped into instant gratification…It relies on the passing of time to be [at] its best…Garden making puts us all in the comfort zone of being part of the positive continuum of earth. Our small contributions are part of the baton race to keep our natural world going. We are our ancestors’ children and the sum of what they passed on to us. The honorable thing is to pass it on to those who follow…leave them with something wonderful, something beautiful, something worth respecting.”

Growing up in both England and France, and having an insatiable curiosity, the author was fascinated with not only the use of the plants in gardens, but how to transport water and choose the various materials and styles for constructing walls, fences, railings, gates, doors, steps, roads, paths, hard surfaces, accessory buildings, and decoration. All these topics are discussed at length.

The author also includes an extensive section about various soil types, a review of the six animal kingdoms, everything you ever wanted to know about plants, the history of how gardens started in urban areas, and the various ways to garden in cities when space is limited, to stay relevant.

As a self-taught garden designer, she never felt constrained by the many historic “how to” ideas of what makes a beautiful garden. She therefore considers all the elements that can be seen, heard, smelled, tasted, or touched. Herself freed from convention, Blom is

hoping the book helps us expand our own minds regarding what belongs in a garden besides the obvious visual appeal of flowers, or the practical use of vegetables. She invites us into her world, where every detail is thoughtfully considered, and its history told. o

Marsha Douma is a retired dentist and lifelong gardener who also enjoys swimming, tennis, and playing the piano. She lives in Rockville, MD.

Epic Homesteading: Your Guide to Self-Sufficiency on a Modern, HighTech, Backyard Homestead

Author: Kevin Espiritu

Publisher: Cool Springs Press/Quarto List Price: $29.99

Order Links: https://amzn.to/4bSr90h and https://bookshop.org/ a/79479/9780760383766

Reviewer: Andrea Siegel

We tend to think of homesteading as the subsistence living of the American pioneers who relied on their livestock, farm, and forest. We also generally prefer seasonal backyard grilling of foods bought at a market over having a noisy barnyard to tend and wood to chop so we can cook and don’t freeze.

Modern homesteading is less grueling than that of two centuries ago, although you clearly have to put in the planning, learn some skills, and devote time and energy to it. That’s a takeaway from Epic Homesteading: Your Guide to Self-Sufficiency on a Modern, HighTech, Backyard Homestead, by Eric Espiritu. But there are others, too. The author’s 224-page paperback, a relative of his digital/social media presence (YouTube, etc.), is an introduction to homesteading, something of a resource and guidebook, and is a helpful overview that gives people food for thought.

Espiritu is a homesteader not living entirely off the land. Readers see in many photos what he has done so far on his third of an acre.

He provides advice that people who are intrigued by homesteading would find useful in selecting a site, such as zoning regulations (they can be restrictive), climate (to support the crops you want to grow), and planning (how you will heat and generate electricity in your home).

Readers who want to incorporate some aspects into their current homes can choose practices that fit their lifestyles, whether that’s container gardening on a balcony, investing in solar panels, or keeping backyard chickens.

Not everything in here is applicable everywhere, but is still worth a read. Espiritu’s place is in San Diego, CA, which is drier, so he benefits from investing in a greywater system and a cistern; that area has a temperature range more conducive to a longer outdoor growing season than the Washington, DC-area does, but cold stratification of seeds and winter sowing are outdoor projects here. A citrus hedge like Espiritu planted might be iffy here, but other fruit trees could be substituted.

Using timers for outdoor watering and indoor grow lights are examples of technology in modern homesteading. Much of the book is about food—growing it, outdoors and in; preserving it; etc. Particularly helpful is a chart, one of many throughout, of the amount of various produce your garden should supply annually per adult. Other chapters include composting, energy systems, and keeping chickens and bees.

Every chapter has a QR code to bring you to Espiritu’s homesteading webpage for more information, videos, and the like about the topic. For a deeper understanding of, say, solar panels, you’d probably want to consult specialized sources.

Espiritu shows and tells readers what some of the work may entail. He

is encouraging, not judgmental. He advises people to assess their skills, time, and willingness as they think about components of homesteading to tackle. Some resources, like wood chips for mulch, can be found for free; others, such as a greenhouse, are investments.

Many of us already practice slivers of homesteading: Vegetable and herb gardening, canning, vermicomposting and storing runoff in rain barrels are examples. Whether we enjoy DIY projects, seek to pull back from being strictly commercial consumers, want to organically grow our own produce while supporting pollinators, or just be more self-reliant, this book can introduce us as well as beginner homesteaders to new ideas. o

Andrea Siegel is a master gardener in Maryland.

Love Reading?

The book reviews in this issue are by volunteer members of the Washington Gardener Reader Panel. To join the Washington Gardener Volunteer Reader Panel, send an email with your name and address to: KathyJentz@gmail.com. We look forward to having you be a vital part of our local gardening publication o

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The Green Heron

Still as a stone, the Green Heron (Butorides virescens) epitomizes the patient, solitary hunter. No movement will betray the heron’s presence to prey under the water’s surface. Small fish exploring the shallows will have no warning until the dagger-like bill strikes.

This handsome bird, about the size of a crow, sports a rich russet neck and chest. In good light, green feathers on the bird’s back are iridescent. In low light, the bird may look blue-gray or just dark.

Want to see a Green Heron? Think “edge.” They tend to hang out along marshy edges of freshwater ponds, streams, or lakes, hunched under weedy growth or shrubs. Look for them also hunting the edges of marsh grasses that grow in brackish water near the coast. In any watery habitat, a Green Heron may stalk slowly, neck stretched out as the bird peers intently for prey, or, more often, it will crouch and wait near the water’s edge, so hidden and still that it’s virtually invisible.

Green Herons migrate from our area in mid-autumn. Many go only as far south as the southern-most U.S., but some travel to Central America. They return to the Mid-Atlantic in early spring, with more than fishing on their minds. In springtime, when you see a heron perched and another one flies near or perches nearby, observe their behavior. You may be able to find their nest.

By Cecily Nabors

The male begins construction of a nest platform, often 10 to 30 feet up in a tree or shrub. Interwoven sticks and twigs form the basis. When he finds a mate, the female completes the nest to her satisfaction, while he brings materials. The result looks haphazard and flimsy, but more twigs and mosses may be added after the eggs are laid. Both parents incubate the eggs.

Youngsters are fed the same food the adults eat, but they get it second-hand. Parents regurgitate partly digested food into those gaping beaks until the young are a week or two old. The bulk of a heron’s diet consists of small fish such as minnows, sunfish, and goldfish, but they also feed on insects, spiders, crustaceans, and targets of opportunity such as amphibians and reptiles.

How do these birds, which usually watch and wait for tasty tidbits to swim near, find such a varied menu? According to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology, the

Green Heron is one of the world’s few bird species to use tools. Foraging herons create “bait” by dropping feathers, small twigs, or insects on the surface of the water to lure their prey closer.

Once the young ones are strong enough to leave the nest, they clamber about inside the nest tree like children on a jungle gym. Long beaks part the leaves, bright eyes gaze out onto this brave new world they’re exploring. Their parents bring food to them, and continue to do so even when the fledglings begin to fly to other locations.

In summer, heron families stay together as the youngsters learn to fish for themselves. Local ponds and stream banks may provide a view of as many as five at once, running along the muddy banks or crouched and stretching their necks out over the water.

Backyard ponds and water features may attract herons as well. For people who have goldfish or koi they’d like to keep safe from avian hunters, the Cornell Lab recommends placing a length of drain pipe in the pond to provide fish with a place to hide.

Although Green Herons are fairly common, Breeding Bird Survey (BBS) data show that their numbers have dropped by about half since 1966, when the BBS started. The loss is probably due to destruction of habitat. Conservation and management of wetlands will help maintain a good population of these beautiful and clever birds. If you’re walking in a watery area and a bird suddenly flies up with a sharp “Skeow,” be happy: You’ve seen a Green Heron! o

Cecily Nabors is a retired software manager who has been watching birds for much of her life. She publishes the Good-Natured Observations blog at cecilynabors.com.

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MARCH/APRIL 2005

• Landscape DIY vs. Pro

• Prevent Gardener’s Back

• Ladew Topiary Gardens

• Cherry Trees

MAY/JUNE 2005

• Stunning Plant Combinations

• Turning Clay into Rich Soil

• Wild Garlic

• Strawberries

JULY/AUGUST 2005

• Water Gardens

• Poison Ivy

• Disguising a Sloping Yard

• Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005

• Container Gardens

• Clematis Vines

• Sponge Gardening/Rain Gardens

• 5 Insect Enemies of Gardeners

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005

• Backyard Bird Habitats

• Hellebores

• Building a Coldframe

• Bulb Planting Basics

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006

• Garden Decor Principles

• Primroses

• Tasty Heirloom Veggies

• U.S. Botanic Garden

MARCH/APRIL 2006

• Top 10 Small Trees and Large Shrubs

• Azaleas

• Figs, Berries, & Persimmons

• Basic Pruning Principles

MAY/JUNE 2006

• Using Native Plants in Your Landscape

• Crabgrass

• Peppers

• Secret Sources for Free Plants

JULY/AUGUST 2006

• Hydrangeas

• Theme Gardens

• Agave

• Find Garden Space by Growing Up

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006

• Shade Gardening

• Hosta Care Guide

• Fig-growing Tips and Recipes

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006

• Horticultural Careers

• Juniper Care Guide

• Winter Squash Growing Tips and Recipes

• Layer/Lasagna Gardening

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007

• Indoor Gardening

• Daphne Care Guide

• Asparagus Growing Tips and Recipes

• Houseplant Propagation

MARCH/APRIL 2007

• Stormwater Management

• Dogwood Selection & Care Guide

• Early Spring Vegetable Growing Tips

• Franciscan Monastery Bulb Gardens

MAY/JUNE 2007

• Roses: Easy Care Tips

• Native Roses & Heirloom Roses

• Edible Flowers

• How to Plant a Bare-root Rose

JULY/AUGUST 2007

• Groundcovers: Alternatives to Turfgrass

• How to Pinch, Prune, & Dead-head

• William Paca House & Gardens

• Hardy Geraniums

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2007

• Succulents: Hardy to our Region

• Drought-Tolerant Natives

• Southern Vegetables

• Seed Saving Savvy Tips

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2007

• Gardening with Children

• Indoor Bulb-Forcing Basics

• National Museum of the American Indian

• Versatile Viburnums

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008

• Dealing with Deer

• Our Favorite Garden Tools

• Delightful Daffodils

MARCH/APRIL 2008

• Patio, Balcony, Rooftop Container Gardens

• Our Favorite Garden Tools

• Coral Bells (Heuchera)

MAY/JUNE 2008

• Growing Great Tomatoes

• Glamorous Gladiolus

• Seed-Starting Basics

SUMMER 2009

• Grow Grapes in the Mid- Atlantic

• Passionflowers

• Mulching Basics

• Growing Hops

FALL 2009

• Apples

• How to Save Tomato Seeds

• Persimmons

WINTER 2009

• Battling Garden Thugs

• How to Start Seeds Indoors

• Red Twig Dogwoods

• Unusual Edibles to Grow in Our Region

SPRING 2010

• Community Gardens

• Building a Raised Bed

• Dwar f Iris

• Broccoli

SUMMER 2010

• Fragrance Gardens

• Watering Without Waste

• Lavender

• Potatoes

FALL 2010

• Vines and Climbers

• Battling Stink Bugs

• Russian Sage

• Garlic

WINTER 2010

• Paths and Walkways

• Edgeworthia

• Kohlrabi

you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/MidAtlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out in the middle of every month. Contact kathyjentz@gmail.com or call 301.588.6894 for ad rates (starting from $200). The ad deadline is the 5th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: kathyjentz@gmail.com

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SPRING 2011

• Cutting-Edge Gardens

• Final Frost Dates and When to Plant

• Bleeding Hearts

• Onions

• Flavorful Fruiting Natives

JULY/AUGUST 2008

• Landscaping with Ornamental Grasses

• Edible Grasses to Graze On

• Slug and Snail Control

• Sage Advice: Sun-Loving Salvias

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008

• Autumn Edibles — What to Plant Now

• Beguiling Barrenworts (Epimediums)

• Best Time to Plant Spring-blooming Bulbs

• 14 Dry Shade Plants Too Good to Overlook

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008

• Outdoor Lighting Essentials

• How to Prune Fruiting Trees, Shrubs, Vines

• 5 Top Tips for Overwintering Tender Bulbs

• Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009

• Compost Happens: Nature’s Free Fertilizer

• Managing Stormwater with a Rain Garden

• Visiting Virginia’s State Arboretum

• Grow Winter Hazel for Winter Color

MARCH/APRIL 2009

SUMMER 2011

• Ornamental Edibles

• Urban Foraging

• Amsonia/Arkansas Blue Star

• Growing Corn in the Mid-Atlantic

FALL 2011

• Herb Gardens

• Toad Lilies

• Sweet Potatoes

• Cool Weather Cover Crops

WINTER 2011/EARLY SPRING 2012

• Green Roofs and Walls

• Heaths and Heathers

• Radishes

SPRING 2012

• Pollinator Gardens

• Brunnera: Perennial of the Year

• Growing Yacon

SUMMER 2012

• Tropical Gardens

• Captivating Canna

• Icebox Watermelons

SPRING 2013

• Great Garden Soil

• All About Asters

• 40+ Free and Low-cost Local Garden Tips

• Spring Edibles Planting Guide

• Testing Your Soil for a Fresh Start

• Redbud Tree Selection and Care

SOLDOUT!SOLDOUT!SOLDOUT!

• Squash Vine Borer

SUMMER/FALL 2013

• Miniature/Faerie Gardens

• Beguiling Abelias

• Best Viewing Spots for Virginia Bluebells

MAY/JUNE 2009

• Top Easy Summer Annuals for DC Heat

• Salad Table Project

• Grow and Enjoy Eggplant

• How to Chuck a Woodchuck

• Growing Great Carrots

WINTER/EARLY SPRING 2014

• Ferns for the Mid-Atlantic

• Chanticleer Gardens

• Beet Growing Basics

Jentz Prints

Antique Botanical Prints for the decorator, collector, connoisseur, and art lover.

Jentz Prints can be purchased most weekends (weather-dependent) at the world-famous Eastern Market.

Antique prints are affordable—most in the $10-$30 range—and they are the perfect gift idea for that plant lover in your life. And don’t forget to buy a few for yourself!

For more information or to get a detailed show schedule, please contact Jentz Prints by email at UllrichJ@aol.com.