Washington Gardener January 2016

JANUARY 2016 VOL. 10 NO. 11

WWW.WASHINGTONGARDENER.COM

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ggardener

the magazine for gardening enthusiasts in the Mid-Atlantic region

Grow Anywhere in Smart Pots Your Garden Tasks To-do List

Meet Holly Shimizu Plant a Pollinator Victory Garden

Battling Ambrosia Beetles

Local Gardening Events Calendar

New Perennial Kosmic Kale

Alternatives to Burning Bush

Top Coreopsis Selections for Mid-Atlantic Gardens

Growing Indoor–Outdoor Citrus

RESOURCESsourc

o oo ooo Need a Garden Club Speaker?

Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the greater DC region.

Call 301.588.6894 or email wgardenermag@aol.com for available dates, rates, and topics.

Haven’s Natural Brew Tea conditions the soil so your plant’s root system can better absorb nutrients needed to build a strong, healthy root base. The manure tea can also be applied to compost piles to accelerate the composting process.

RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE DISCRIMINATING GARDENER AND COLLECTOR Barry Glick Sunshine Farm and Gardens 696 Glicks Road Renick, WV 24966, USA Email: barry@sunfarm.com

Order some today at: www.manuretea.com

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Green Spring Gardens

Your Ad Here

Are you trying to reach thousands of gardeners in the greater DC region/Mid-Atlantic area? Washington Gardener Magazine goes out on the 15th of every month. Contact wgardenermag@aol.com or call 301.588-6894 for ad rates (starting from $200).

The ad deadline is the 10th of each month. Please submit your ad directly to: wgardenermag@aol.com.

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www.greenspring.org

A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round gold mine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins.

Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.

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Save space in small gardens by using portable, fabric Smart Pots for edibles as well as ornamental plants.

Photo by Louise Clarke of her backyard garden.

Holly Shimizu has a rich background in all aspects of public gardens, extensive experience in leading garden tours and workshops, and a proven commitment to plant conservation and sustainability. She has been making plants and gardens more accessible and exciting to both professionals and amateurs for over four decades.

She can be contacted through her web site at www.hollyshimizu.com.

Photo by Daniel Weil.

FEATURES and COLUMNS ASKtheexpert 18 Succession Planting, Paper Wasp Nests, Burning Bush Alternatives, Too-early Blooms BOOKreviews 16-17 Red Hot Chili Grower, Grow Your Own Natural Gardens, Edible Spots and Pots EDIBLEharvest 6-7 Indoor-Outdoor Citrus Trees NEIGHBORnetwork 20-21 Holly Shimizu PHILLYflowershow 12 Trip Details and Sign-up Form PHOTOcontest 9 Rules for 2016 Submissions PRODUCTreview 19 Smart Pots Fabric Containers SEEDexchanges 14-15 2016 Dates and Details TIPStricks 10 Top Coreopsis for Mid-Atlantic Gardens, Assessing Winter Storm Tree Damage, Planting Pollinator Victory Gardens

DEPARTMENTS

ADVERTISINGindex BLOGlinks EDITORletter GARDENcontest LOCALevents MONTHLYtasklist NEXTissue RESOURCESsources

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ON THE COVER

Kumquats in the U.S. Botanic Garden courtyard. Photo by Devin Dotson, USBG Public Affairs and Exhibits Specialist.

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In our February 2016 issue:

The combination of ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon and ‘Bearss’ lime in a container is popular and has proven to be successful. The vigorous lemon tree should be pruned to keep it in balance with the lime tree. Photo courtesy of Four Winds Growers.

Arugula Tips

Low-maintenance Perennials and much more...

If your business would like to reach area gardeners, be sure to contact us by February 10 so you can be part of the next issue of our growing publication!

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Be sure you are subscribed!

Click on the “subscribe” link at http://washingtongardener. blogspot.com/ JANUARY 2016

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EDITORletter

Credits Kathy Jentz Editor/Publisher & Advertising Sales Washington Gardener 826 Philadelphia Ave. Silver Spring, MD 20910 Phone: 301-588-6894 wgardenermag@aol.com www.washingtongardener.com Call today to place your ad with us!

Ruth E. Thaler-Carter Proofreader Joelle Lang Intern Cover price: $4.99 Back issues: $6.00 Subscription: $20.00 Address corrections should be sent to the address above.

Tried and True or Shiny and New? I spent a couple of days earlier this month at MANTS — the Mid-Atlantic Nursery Trade Show — in Baltimore, MD. This is one of the biggest gatherings in the horticultural industry and it is always a treat to visit during a cold, blustery January week. It gives me a chance to reconnect with colleagues, recharge for the upcoming growing season, and see what new offerings are on the market.

When I ran into Dr. Allan Armitage, a well-known author and plant researcher, I thought about his reputation as a straight-shooter. If a plant goes through his trial gardens, he tells it like it is — both the good and the bad. He doesn’t just jump on the latest plants, but takes time to see how they develop.

The bright, shiny, and new certainly attract a great deal of my attention and I filled my Instagram feed (@wdcgardener) with lots of photos of the latest cool plants and gadgets, but I have to started to feel that perhaps we garden communicators are too easily distracted by the trendy to the detriment of letting our readers know more about the tried-and-true plants and tools. Perhaps, to us, the latter group are “boring,” since we see them in many gardens. It is hard to think of new things to say about a tall, yellow Daffodil, that hasn’t been said before.

As in all things, balance is the key. We need to share from both realms — the new introductions as well as the garden stalwarts. In every issue, we share a “Spotlight” plant that will be coming soon to a garden center near you. Many of these are worthy new improvements of old standards (disease-resistant dogwoods), while some are just plain cool (pink blueberries). We also run several regular columns that profile native, edibles, and ornamental plants, so we do expose you to the plants that are proven to be successful and work in our Mid-Atlantic climate.

When you garden this coming season, please do share your old favorites and new successes with us. We want to hear what plants you are passionate about!

Happy gardening (and reading)!

Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, wgardenermag@aol.com 4

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• Washington Gardener Blog: www.washingtongardener.blogspot.com • Washington Gardener Archives: http://issuu.com/washingtongardener • Washington Gardener Discussion Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ WashingtonGardener/ • Washington Gardener Twitter Feed: www.twitter.com/WDCGardener • Washington Gardener is a womanowned business. We are proud to be members of: · Garden Writers Association · Think Local First DC · DC Web Women · Green America Magazine Leaders Network · Green America Business Network To order reprints, contact Wright’s Reprints at 877.652.5295, ext. 138.

Volume 10, Number 11 ISSN 1555-8959 © 2016 Washington Gardener All rights reserved. Published quarterly.

No material may be reproduced without prior written permission. This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that the information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to legality, completeness, or technical accuracy.

All uncredited photos in this issue are © Kathy Jentz.

READERcontt

Reader Contest

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For our January 2016 Washington Gardener Reader Contest, Washington Gardener is giving away two passes to either of the Washington Gardener Seed Exchanges (prize value $40).

The 11th Annual Washington Gardener Seed Exchanges, hosted by Washington Gardener Magazine, take place on January 30, 2016, at the Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, MD and on February 6, 2016, at Green Spring Gardens in Fairfax, VA. You have a choice of which side of the DC Beltway you want to visit! Seed Exchange attendees trade seeds, exchange planting tips, hear expert speakers, and collect goody bags full of gardening treats. The event also includes such “green” features as the garden book and catalog swap. Everyone will leave with a bag full of seeds and loads of gardening inspiration for

the upcoming growing season!

To enter to win the Seed Exchange Passes, send an email to WashingtonGardener@rcn.com by 5:00pm on January 25 with “Seed Swap” in the subject line and in the body of the email. Please also include your full name and mailing address. The pass winners will be announced and notified on January 27.

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Local Gardening Calendar

Each month includes a list of what to do in the garden for local DC-MD-VA and Mid-Atlantic gardeners, along with a gorgeous photo of a seasonal flower from a local public garden collection in our area.

Go to http://www.cafepress.com/ washgardener to order this new calendar for gifts and to treat yourself!

Be sure to note on your order what month you want the calendar to start with. This calendar is a keeper that you can use for years!

Caption Contest We asked our Facebook page followers to caption this mannequin amidst a display of Coleus plants at the recent MANTS event.

Look for more monthly caption contests at the Facebook.com/WashingtonGardenerMagazine page.

Winning Captions: “No need for expensive footwear when you surround yourself with beautiful, low-maintenance and affordable Coleus! Always in fashion.” ~ Montgomery Jones “And in entertainment news, socialite Paris Hilton has been the victim of a near-fatal tanning bed malfunction.” ~ Julie Blackwell “Didn’t I tell you, you’re the only one who can see me like this.” ~ Andy McCrory “Let us dance in the sun, wearing wild flowers in our hair...” ~ Susan Polis Schutz “You can lead a horticulture but you can’t make her think.” ~ Dorothy Parker “Cool Coleus: Indulge your garden diva without the high maintenance.” ~ Monica Sirtori

Hort Couture Plants booth at MANTS. Photo by Kathy Jentz.

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Growing Indoor– Outdoor Citrus

by Elizabeth Olson Gardeners who enjoy the beauty and utility of kumquat and citrus fruit should consider growing the trees as indoor–outdoor plants. The climate in the greater Mid-Atlantic growing region is too cold in winter to grow them outdoors year-round, but the trees make excellent container-grown plants.

The best results are obtained with the tart- and small-fruited species, cultivars, and hybrids of the Fortunella and Citrus genera, including kumquat, calamondin, lemon, and lime. They produce the best quality of fruit and culinary products since there is rarely enough heat for long enough in the outdoor growing season for sweet- and large-fruited trees to produce high-quality fruit.

The genera Fortunella (kumquat) and Citrus (lemon, lime, etc.) are both members of the Rutaceae family. Their many species and naturally occurring hybrids originated in south and east Asia.

Modern hybrids of the two genera are increasingly common as plant breeders strive to combine the cold-hardiness of the kumquat with increased size and flavor of traditional citrus varieties. Calamondin is a naturally occurring hybrid and has been grown in the United States for more than a century.

Plant Availability

Recent disease problems in the production of citrus trees have led to a shortage at local nurseries, but availability should increase later this year. In the meantime, there is limited availability by mail/online order from some seed companies. To protect against insect-transmitted diseases, producers such as 6

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Four Winds Growers in California (www.

FourWindsGrowers.com) now grow their stock in insect-proof facilities. They will ship directly to gardeners on the East Coast, subject to weather conditions.

Culinary Uses of Citrus

The juice of citrus and citrus hybrids is often used as a condiment, flavoring, or ingredient in marinades or in beverages from fruit punch to cocktails. Zest can be used fresh, made into marmalade, or preserved for later use by dehydrating or freezing. One species, the ‘Kieffer’ lime, is used for its flavorful leaves and zest.

Growing Tips

All kumquat and citrus trees need good drainage. They should be grown in containers that have drainage holes and are large enough for the trees to grow well for at least three years before repotting. Use a commercial potting mix that drains well. Read the label on the package carefully and do not use a potting medium to which polymers (waterholding agents) have been added. Fertilize the trees regularly with an organic fruit/vegetable fertilizer, but do not overfertilize them.

It is important to have a gentle acclimatization process from both indoor to outdoor growing conditions and from outdoor to indoor growing conditions.

In spring, the trees can be put out for a few hours during the day when the windchill is above 55–60°F., preferably in light shade, then put back inside a warm home when the outdoor temperature drops. Gradually expose the trees

to more direct sunlight. When nighttime temperatures are reliably above 60°F, the trees may stay outside all day and night until early autumn. They should be grown in full sun, if possible, or at least half a day in full sun, preferably in the morning.

The transition back to indoor conditions is to take the trees indoors for a few hours each day, making it possible for the trees to become adjusted to the lower light levels inside. The trees should be fully acclimated before the nighttime temperatures drop below 55°F. Be sure to place the trees near a sunny window, but not next to a heating vent. If a whole-house humidifier is in the home, a 40% humidity setting would be adequate.

Ensure a consistent moisture level in the potting medium both indoors and outdoors. Regularly and carefully check the moisture level in the potting medium a few inches down from the surface. For outdoor conditions, supplement rainfall as necessary. Indoor conditions require vigilant monitoring.

Always, when watering, water thoroughly and allow the excess water to drain.

Let each tree grow for at least one to two years before letting fruit form and ripen. This will allow the branches to become strong enough to support the weight of mature fruit.

Enjoy the blossoms on young trees, but carefully snip off the spent blossoms so fruit does not form. The fruit on more mature trees may need to be thinned or supported if growing in clusters, depending on the strength of the branches.

One exception for growing fruit on a young tree is to check it for being true to type: One single fruit may be allowed to form and grow to maturity — provide support for it so the branch does not break or rip.

Most citrus and kumquat trees have solid-green leaves, but some variegated cultivars are also available. They are very attractive, but not as productive as cultivars with solid-green leaves. If any branch starts to produce leaves that have no green color, prune that branch back to a point where the majority of each leaf is green. Always prune to an outward-facing bud.

Ed Laivo, fruit specialist with Four

EDIBLEharvt Winds Growers, recommends that gardeners modify a commercial potting medium. He offers the following suggestions for potting, watering, and fertilizing. For a modified potting medium: Use 60% of a potting medium that is designed for azaleas, 25% small bark, and 15% chunk coir — by volume — and mix thoroughly. Fertilize with an organic, acid-based fertilizer that contains moderate to low amounts of nitrogen — such as Espoma’s Hollytone™ — every three months.

Repot trees every three to four years.

Maintain a consistent moisture level in the potting medium. For plants that are growing indoors, use water that is at room temperature, and avoid water that has been treated with a softener. Laivo also recommends using a grow light to supplement indoor light.

Recommended Trees KUMQUAT (Fortunella spp.)

Kumquat cultivars produce very small fruits with very thin, smooth skin. They are not suitable for zesting or juicing. The fruits can be sliced, deseeded, and used as a garnish or added to cooked or baked dishes. Whole fruits may be consumed fresh. The decorative fruits hold well on the trees, and can be stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to three weeks.

The plants have small, dark-green leaves and a dense, shrubby growth habit. Small white blossoms are produced in summer and the fruits mature in winter. Well-grown, hardened-off plants can withstand a light frost, making the outdoor growing season for kumquats longer than that of lemons and limes. Kumquat trees can also be trained as bonsai specimens and the tiny fruits provide a table-top treat. Be careful to prevent zinc deficiency by using an organic fruit/vegetable fertilizer that contains zinc.

• ‘Nagami’ (F. margarita), pictured above, oval-shaped fruit with bright, orange-colored, tart-flavored skin and pulp. This is the preferred cultivar for preserving whole or in products such as

marmalade, chutney, and frozen purée.

It is also the most common kumquat found in markets.

• ‘Meiwa’ (F. crassifolia) has roundshaped fruit with sweet, yellow-orange colored skin and moderately tart, juicy orange pulp. This cultivar is preferred for eating fresh, but produces best-quality fruit in a warm growing season. The fruits can be candied.

• ‘Fukushu’ (F. obovata) has slightly bell-shaped fruits that are larger than those of ‘Nagami’ and ‘Meiwa,’ with thinner, orange-colored skin. The juicy, orange pulp is acidic. The plants have relatively large, broad leaves and a spreading growth habit.

CALAMONDIN (Citrofortunella microcarpa) Calamondin is partly kumquat and partly a citrus species, most likely a mandarin (Citrus reticulata). It has a tall, columnar growth habit; mediumsmall leaves; and small white blossoms.

It is very productive and makes a striking containergrown plant. Its degree of cold-hardiness comes from its kumquat heritage.

The round, small fruits have orange-colored, juicy pulp and thin, sweet, orange-colored peels that can be preserved. The acidic juice can be sweetened to make a refreshing beverage. Recipes that call for lime juice can be adapted for use with calamondin juice.

LEMON (Citrus limon) Cultivars ‘Eureka’ and ‘Lisbon’ are the standard market lemons. However, the best lemon for indoor–outdoor growing is the ‘Improved Meyer’ lemon (Citrus x meyeri ‘Improved Meyer’), which is most often simply called the Meyer lemon.

It is generally considered a naturally occurring hybrid of a regular lemon and either a mandarin or a sweet orange.

Its fruit is of medium-small to medium size and has the traditional shape of a lemon (shown on the opposite page).

The tree has a somewhat rounded, slightly open growth habit. When wellgrown and hardened-off, it will tolerate a light frost for a short period of time.

Prolonged exposure to frost will damage

the flowers and fruit.

The fruit has medium-yellow pulp that is exceptionally juicy. It has the same acidity level as that of regular lemons, but its tartness is mellowed with natural sweetness. The thin, very smooth peel is a deep yellow and often ages to a golden-orange. It is highly aromatic and beautiful. Long strings of zest can be harvested from it. Meyer lemons may be in flower and fruit at the same time.

Mature lemons should be harvested or thinned to make way for new ones.

A slice of Meyer lemon is wonderful in a cup of tea and Meyer lemon juice arguably makes the best lemon meringue pie. The crop is only infrequently found in stores due to the thinness of the peel.

LIME (Citrus latifolia) ‘Bearss’ lime is the most cold-hardy of the true lime cultivars. It is also known as the ‘Tahitian’ or ‘Persian’ lime. The trees have a spreading growth habit, very few thorns, and wonderfully fragrant white blossoms in summer. A ‘Bearss’ lime has moderately thin skin that turns from green to yellow when fully ripe in late autumn to early winter.

They do not hold long on the tree when fully mature and may drop. The pulp is pale green, acidic, and very juicy. There are few, if any, seeds. Slices can be used fresh, dehydrated, or candied.

‘Kieffer’ lime (Citrus hystrix), also known as ‘Kaffir,’ ‘Makrut,’ and Thai lime, is very cold-sensitive, but it makes an interesting container plant. Most of the culinary uses are for the leaves and zest in Asian recipes. The leaves have a distinctive double-lobed structure. Fresh leaves can be harvested as needed year-round. The fruits are about the size of regular market limes. ‘Kieffer’ limes have lumpy skin, but can be zested.

They mature from green to yellow and drop from the tree. Both the leaves and the zest can be used fresh or preserved by dehydrating or freezing. o Elizabeth Olson is a Maryland Certified Professional Horticulturist. She is also an avid home gardener who is fascinated by the stories behind the plants that she grows.

She can be contacted through Washington Gardener magazine.

Photos courtesy of Four Winds Growers.

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INSECTindex

Ambrosia Beetles: Little Bug, Big Impact

by Carol Allen You may have heard about the frighteningly destructive outcome from attacks by Asian Longhorn beetle or the Emerald Ash borer as word of those invasive pests have made it into the daily news, and you may be aware of the Bronze Birch Borer or some of the borers that plague older Dogwoods or Lilacs. Now there is another group of very small beetles that is making nurserymen, arborists, and extension educators very nervous. These insects of concern are the members of the beetle/weevil family, Scolytinae, known as Ambrosia Beetles.

What makes Ambrosia Beetles so alarming? One reason is that they do not feed directly on the trees, but create galleries and tunnels in which they deposit the spores of a variety of fungus species. The beetles then feed on the fungi. Unfortunately, the species of fungi that the beetles carry often causes the ultimate death of the tree.

Another issue is that their entrance holes are only about one millimeter in diameter. That is smaller than the diameter of one of the letters on this page and that makes them very hard to see.

If these issues were not enough, the window for control is very short and only chemical pesticides are available at this time.

With more than 500 species of this specialized group of beetles in North America, thankfully, most are not of economic importance. Native Ambrosia Beetles have evolved with our native trees and feed only on weakened, dead, and dying ones. It is the alien invasive species that will attack seemingly healthy trees. Those are the beetles of concern to nurserymen and homeowners.

There are two offenders of note: the Black Stem Borer (Xylosandrus 8

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germanus) and the Granulate Ambrosia Beetle (Xylosandrus crassiusculus). The life cycle of both insects is similar. The overwintering female emerges when there are several consecutive days with temperatures over 70°F. This usually occurs in March and April in the Washington, DC, area. Some researchers note that this can coincide with native Dogwood bloom. The females fly out of their galleries and seek out new host trees.

They bore into the wood of the trunks and limbs of over 200 species of trees and shrubs. The host tree responds to the initial attacks with a heavy outpouring of sap. It is these water-soaked areas on smooth barked trees that are seen by both the nurseryman and homeowner alike. If the female is not discouraged by the sap, she continues to bore deeper into the heartwood of the tree. This deeper boring will produce toothpick-like masses of frass that project an inch or more from the bark

and are very noticeable.

The female carries the spores of her fungal associate on her body. These spores will germinate in the moist interior of the galleries that the female creates. When there is sufficient fungal growth, the female lays eggs, the larva hatch and then on the fungus. Mating occurs within the galleries after pupation. A new generation is produced within about 55 days, if conditions are good. More than one generation per year is possible.

Researchers and extension experts track the activity of the beetles in the early spring by placing ethanol-filled traps in areas of concern. Trapping is used primarily as a method of timing the protective insecticide sprays to the trunk. This control method is used mostly in nurseries where Ambrosia Beetle damage can be severe. Flight

activity dates are published in the UMD Extension TPM/IPM weekly report (https://extension.umd.edu/ipm/landscape-and-nursery-ipm-alerts). These dates would be of interest to orchardists, nursery operators, and arborists.

What can a homeowner do to protect their trees? Proper siting, planting, and culture are vital in discouraging Ambrosia Beetle attacks. Stressed trees emit ethanol. That is why ethanol traps are so successful in attracting Ambrosia Beetles. Researchers have found that the following stresses will initiate ethanol emittance: flooding, drought, frost injury, excessive heat, girdling, pollutants, pathogens, and impaired root function.

Planting too deeply or mulching the root flare too deeply will also result in tree stress. Planting trees in heavy, compacted soil that becomes soggy in wet weather should be avoided.

Many of our favorite native and ornamental trees and shrubs are vulnerable to Ambrosia Beetle attack, including: Dogwood, Honey Locust, Magnolia, Maple, Redbud, Japanese Snowbell, Yellowwood, Beech, Tulip Poplar, Willow, Oak, and many others.

As a homeowner, be observant! If you see wet areas on your trees or the toothpick-like frass extrusions, contact your local extension agent or an ISA Certified Arborist for advice. Heavily infested trees will have to be destroyed and removed. Proper identification of the type of Ambrosia Beetle will be important in determining the course of action. Insecticide application is only effective if applied after the wet areas are seen and before the frass extrusions are sighted.

At this time, there is only prevention.

There are no cures for a tree that has been heavily infested. o Carol Allen describes herself as a committable plant-a-holic. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the horticulture industry, with a special interest in plant pests and diseases, and is an ISA Certified Arborist and a Licensed Pesticide Applicator in the state of Maryland. She can be contacted at carolallen@erols.com.

Please use pesticides safely! Read and heed all label directions!

Photos by Hulcr at the English language Wikipedia.

You’ve seen those gorgeous garden photos published in magazines and newspapers. Enter this year’s competition and have a chance of getting your winning images published, too! Whether you take the photos in your own backyard, a nearby public garden, or while visiting friends and family in their local gardens, there are so many photographic opportunities to be found. Let’s show off the best in DC-area gardening!

This contest offers an opportunity for all photographers to present their best shots of gardens in the greater Washington, DC, area. Contest entries will be judged on technical quality, composition, originality, and artistic merit.

More than $500 in prizes will be awarded! Winning images will be published in Washington Gardener magazine, displayed during the Washington Gardener Seed Exchange, and appear in a local photo exhibit.

SUBMISSION GUIDELINES

Each entrant is limited to a total of 10 images. Each electronic file must be identified with your last name and entry category. For example, JonesGardenCreature1.jpg or SmithSmallWonders8.jpg.

All photographs should accurately reflect the subject matter and the scene as it appeared in the viewfinder.

Nothing should be added to an image and, aside from dust spots, nothing should be removed. Cropping and minor adjustments to electronic images to convert RAW files are acceptable.

If an image is selected as a finalist, a high-resolution digital file might be required before finalizing our results.

Digitally captured images should be taken at the camera’s highest resolution (3 megapixels or larger). For preliminary judging, digital files must be submitted in JPEG format sized to 1,000 pixels on the longest side at 300 dpi.

If photos are taken with a film camera, they must be scanned in and submitted in JPEG format sized to 1,000 pixels on the longest side at 300 dpi.

Before sending us your CD-ROMs, verify their integrity by making sure they are readable and not damaged. We reserve the right to disqualify any disk that is unreadable or defective. Please

10TH ANNUAL PHOTO CONTEST check your CDs with the latest virusdetection software. We will disqualify any disk that may contain a virus or a suspicious file.

Label each CD and case with your full name. We strongly suggest mailing CDs in protective cases. We are not responsible for disks damaged during shipping. No CDs will be returned, but they can be picked up after judging.

Send your entries and entry fee to: Washington Gardener Photo Contest, 826 Philadelphia Ave., Silver Spring, MD 20910. Mailed entries must be received by January 22, 2016.

Contest entries can also be submitted via email to DCGardenPhotos@aol. com. Use the subject line “WG Photo Contest” and include an entry form for each image in your email’s text field.

You can print out blank entry forms from the Washington Gardener blog, Facebook page, or at www.

WashingtonGardener.com.

We will verify all entry receipts so please ensure your email address is included on all items.

Entrants must not infringe on the rights of any other photographer, landowner, or other person. Photos involving willful harassment of wildlife or destruction of any property are unacceptable.

The entrant must have personally taken the photo. By entering, you state this is your work and it is free of copyright elsewhere.

Failure to comply with any contest guidelines will lead to disqualification.

category or submit all 10 in one category.

Photo must have been taken during the 2015 calendar year in a garden located within a 150-mile radius of the Capitol Building in Washington, DC. • Garden Views: Beautiful, dramatic, or unusual perspectives of a garden landscape, including wide shots showing the setting. Subject can be a private or public garden.

• Garden Vignettes: Groupings of plants in beds or containers, unusual color or texture combinations, garden focal points, and still scenes. Subject can be photographed in a private or public garden.

• Small Wonders: Tight close-up images or macro shots of single flowers, plant parts, fruits, vegetables, etc.

Subject can be photographed in a private or public garden.

• Garden Creatures: Images of insects, birds, frogs, pets, etc., in a private or public garden setting.

COPYRIGHT NOTE

CONTEST ENTRY FEE

Your entry to this contest constitutes your agreement to allow your photographs and your name, city, state, and photo description texts to be published in upcoming issues of Washington Gardener and used for other related purposes including, but not limited to, Washington Gardener Photo Contest promotions, online, live presentations, and gallery exhibits. Entrants retain ownership and all other rights to future use of their photographs.

CATEGORIES

Each entrant is limited to a total of 10 images. You may submit a few in each

PRIZES

Prizes include gift certificates to area camera stores, gardening tools, new plant introductions, and much more!

If you would like to be a prize donor or sponsor, please contact us today.

WINNERS’ OBLIGATION

Photo contest winners will need to provide high-resolution versions of their images for publication and an 11x14 print suitable for framing. Winners may be asked to provide additional information for press and media coverage.

The entry fee is $20.00 or $15.00 for current Washington Gardener Magazine subscribers. The fee includes up to 10 total image submissions per entrant.

Please send a check or money order made out to “Washington Gardener” or send a payment via www.PayPal.com to DCGardenPhotos@aol.com.

DEADLINE

Entries are due by Midnight on January 22, 2016.

QUESTIONS?

Please call 301.588.6894 or email DCGardenPhotos@aol.com. o JANUARY 2016

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TIPStricks

Storm Damage to Trees

Pollinator Victory Gardens

Piggybacking on the White House’s May 2015 release of the Pollinator Research Action Plan, environmental horticulturist Kim Eierman is launching a campaign to make American homeowners and gardeners aware of strategies they can implement in their own gardens and yards in support of pollinators.

“The European honey bee and our 4,000 species of native bees in the U.S. have suffered dramatic losses to their populations. Since bees pollinate a significant portion of our food crops, this is a problem that affects all of us.

Without bee pollination services, many of our common fruits, nuts, and vegetables would no longer be available,” said Eierman. “Most of our landscapes offer little in the way of nectar and pollen sources, which bees depend upon. To make things worse, our frequent use of pesticides, including seemingly benign lawn care products, is devastating to bees and other pollinators.”

“The White House has taken the lead with the recent Pollinator Research Action Plan, but individual actions are just as important,” added Eierman.

“During World Word II, Americans rallied to create over one million Victory Gardens. Americans can do it again — this time creating Pollinator Victory Gardens to defend pollinators and our food supply. Every garden counts!”

Pollinator-friendly Home Garden Tips: 1) Plant for a succession of bloom from spring through fall. Different pollinator species emerge at different times of year, and have different lifespans.

Create an ongoing “pollinator buffet” throughout the growing season.

2) Skip the double-flowered plants — they have little, and sometimes no, nectar or pollen. What is beautiful to the human eye may be a source of starvation for a bee or other pollinator. Find the beauty in what a plant does, not just how it looks.

3) Don’t forget to include trees and shrubs in your landscape — pollinators need them. Many “woody” plants are important for pollinators, and not just those with showy blooms. Some early-blooming native trees and shrubs can be a source of nectar or pollen to early-emerging bees. Some trees even provide habitats to pollinators. o 10

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Tickseed Stands Tall

Mt. Cuba Center is proud to announce the results of three years of plant trial research in the newly published Coreopsis Research Report.

Coreopsis, commonly called tickseed, is one of the most popular native plants for the home gardener.

From 2012 through 2014, native plant researchers at Mt. Cuba Center in Hockessin, DE, conducted a comprehensive trial of 94 selections of annual and perennial coreopsis to determine which are best suited to the Mid-Atlantic region. Because these two groups have different uses and performance expectations, the report is divided into two sections: plants sold as perennials in USDA Hardiness Zone 6 and those sold as annuals. The best-performing perennial species (those marketed as hardy to Zone 6) were ‘Summer Sunshine’ (C. palustris), ‘Flower Tower’ (C. tripteris), ‘Gold Standard’ (C. tripteris), ‘Zagreb’ (C. verticillata), ‘Last Dance’ (C. integrifolia), ‘Gilded Lace’ (C. verticillata), and ‘Golden Gain’ (C. verticillata). Among the cultivars sold as annuals, ‘Salsa’, ‘Jive’, ‘Golden Dream’, ‘RP #1’ (Little Penny), and ‘Pineapple Pie’ stood above the rest for their superior garden performance.

Additionally, ongoing pollinator research has demonstrated the diverse insect communities they support.

The report is free to the public and available at: http://www.mtcubacenter. org/horticultural-research/trial-gardenresearch/. o

Winter storms cause tremendous stress and severe damage to trees in the urban forest. Snapped or downed trees should be removed, but what about a tree that only suffers minor damage?

How can a homeowner tell if a tree is safe enough to keep?

Minor damage — with only the smallest branches of the tree being injured — usually results in little or no permanent injury to the tree. All that is required is cleanup of the broken twigs and branches and perhaps a crown cleaning to restore a pleasing shape.

More severe damage — large broken branches, split crotches, removal of bark, and splitting or splintering of the trunk — can be caused by strong winds and heavy ice storms and require more maintenance. When a tree is severely damaged, homeowners must ask: “Is this tree safe, and in good enough condition, to keep?” A tree care professional should be consulted to answer this.

“Most arborists will take the time and effort to save a tree only if the tree will still be healthy, attractive, and of value to the property owner after repairs,” explained Tchukki Andersen, BCMA, CTSP and staff arborist for the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA). “A tree care expert may recommend removal of a tree that has brittle wood, or if the branch structure makes it vulnerable to damage from future storms. Trees that have been topped by storms, for example, can be prime candidates for removal.”

Other factors to consider when determining whether a tree is worth saving: • Species — Is this type of tree prone to pests and other problems?

• Age — Is the tree mature or overmature?

• Vigor — What health condition was the tree in before the damage?

• Value it adds to the property — Does the tree still have value, even if partially damaged?

• Sentimental value — Is the tree a living monument?

Inspect your trees for damage after a storm. If a tree has hazards, such as broken, hanging limbs, or a split branch union (sometimes called a branch fork), you should have a reputable tree care company provide an assessment. o

GARDENnews

Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts • DIY: Easy Moss Wreath • Garden of Lights Video • Winter Flowers for Bloom Day • Wreath Care Tips See more Washington Gardener blog posts at: WashingtonGardener.Blogspot.com o

January–February Garden To-Do List

New Plant Spotlight ‘Kosmic Kale’

A brand new vegetable, bred by Dick Degenhardt in Boskoop, the Netherlands! It is being introduced to the US market by SuperNaturals Grafted Vegetables, LLC. These “greens” are actually green and white — the easy-to-grow, upright plants produce a continuous harvest of pretty blue-green leaves edged in creamy white. The attractive foliage makes it equally valuable as an ornamental. These plants are terrific for edging a vegetable garden or perennial border.

‘Kosmic Kale’ is ready to harvest about 50–55 days from transplant. It makes a unique garnish and a nutritious addition to salads, soups, or stir fries.

This perennial kale never bolts and goes to seed! It must be cloned by root cuttings, a traditional form of propagation.

The large, upright plant’s unique perennial habit allows for continuous, cut-and-come-again harvests.

Care: Plant seedlings 18 to 24 inches apart for best results in full sun; moist, cool soil. Somewhat hardy, to 10 degrees F. It can grow to three feet in diameter so it can also thrive in a large container. o

• Prune any dead or diseased wood off your small trees and shrubs.

• Plant frost-tolerant trees.

• Cut off the flower stalk on your amaryllis once flowers fade. Leave foliage to grow.

• Keep poinsettias in a well-lit area, but out of direct sun and away from drafts.

• Buy a few new house plants.

• Fertilize only your winter-blooming houseplants, such as violets.

• Give your house plants a quarter turn every few weeks.

• Build a compost bin.

• Repair your shed and repair/paint your fences.

• Clean out your cold frame or build a new one.

• Collect large plastic soda bottles to use as cloches. (A cloche is a clear, bellshaped cover used to protect tender plants from frost.)

• Clean and refill bird feeders.

• Wash and refill the birdbath or set out a shallow bowl of water in icy weather.

• Check on stored summer bulbs and seeds. Discard any that have rotted.

• Buy seeds and order plants from the new garden catalogs.

• Prune summer bloomers such as Hydrangeas, Rose of Sharon, Crape Myrtles, and Butterfly Bushes.

• Till and add organic matter to annual/vegetable beds.

• Weed – especially check fast-growing vines such as honeysuckle, autumn clematis, bittersweet, wild grape, Virginia creeper, and poison ivy.

• Place a floating ball or a small plastic soda bottle filled two-thirds with water and a tablespoon of salt in your pond to stop it from entirely icing over, especially if you have fish. If ice forms, remove the ball by pouring hot water on it.

• Insulate outdoor containers by wrapping with bubble wrap or landscape fabric.

• Check that newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials have not been heaved out of the ground due to freezing-and-thawing cycles.

• Take hardwood cuttings from willow and dogwood to propagate them.

• Look for evidence of pest or fungal damage throughout your garden.

• Clean out your greenhouse and wash those windows.

• Set out your live potted evergreens from holiday decorating in a protected outdoor space to harden them off in advance of planting them.

• If we do get more snow in the DC area, gently dislodge snow from trees and shrubs with a broom to prevent damage to branches.

• Start hardy herbs, onions, cabbage, pansies, and perennials.

• Clean and tidy up pots and seed trays to a get good start in February.

• Use leftover holiday greens and cut-up tree branches to mulch beds and create windbreaks.

• Do not step on frozen soil in flower beds or lawns.

• Keep all houseplants out of drafts and away from heat vents.

• Use de-icer sparingly or a nonchemical substitute such as sand, grit, fireplace ashes, or non-clumping kitty litter.

• Volunteer at a local public or historic garden.

• Paint a few terra cotta pots in spring-like colors.

• Pot up any leftover bulbs that did not make it into the ground by now and force them for indoor blooms.

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10th Annual Washington Gardener Philadelphia Flower Show Tour Organized by Washington Gardener Magazine Wednesday, March 9, 2016, 10:00AM-10:00PM Leaving and returning from downtown Silver Spring, MD

The Philadelphia Flower Show is the oldest and largest indoor flower show in the world. The theme for 2016 is “Explore America.” It will celebrate the centennial of the National Park Service and our country’s majestic landscapes, rich history, cherished monuments, and vibrant culture. From Acadia to Yellowstone, the beauty and glory of American parks will serve as inspiration for exhibits created by the nation’s premier floral and garden designers. Join us for a visit to magnificent displays, special programming, and newer attractions like the interactive Butterfly Experience and a huge Train Garden. The Flower Show attracts non-gardeners as well as die-hard green-thumbed people of all ages. Foodies of all tastes will love the Garden to Table Studio. Participate in the Lectures and Demonstrations series, Gardener’s Studio, and the “Make & Take” workshops. First-time and returning riders will enjoy the welcoming, custom details of our coach service.

Schedule for the day: • 10:00AM Coach leaves downtown Silver Spring with lunch, games, and DVD viewing en route • 12:45-7:15PM Explore Philadelphia Flower Show ~ dinner on your own • 7:30PM Coach departs Philadelphia Convention Center with snacks, games, and DVD showing onboard • 10:00PM Coach arrives at downtown Silver Spring This tour package includes: 1. Charter Passenger Coach ~ reserved seating, storage under the bus 2. Choice of Gourmet Box Lunch on the way up to the show 3. Snacks for the return trip 4. Listing of nearby restaurants for dinner on your own at the show 5. Information package on the show to assist in prioritizing your day 6. Two Garden DVD showings 7. Admission to the show & driver tip 8. Convenient drop-off and pick-up at downtown Silver Spring, MD 9. Lively show and garden discussions led by Washington Gardener’s Kathy Jentz



To register, please use the form below. (One form per person.)

Name _______________________________________________________________ Address______________________________________________________________ Phone number________________________________________________________ Email________________________________________________________________ Name of seatmate_____________________________________________________ We will try to seat groups together, but cannot guarantee group seating.

Name of group _______________________________________________________

Registration deadline: March 1, 2016

Full refund if canceled by February 7. $40 refunded until February 28.

No refunds after March 3.

Questions?

Kathy Jentz Wgardenermag@aol.com www.WashingtonGardener.com

Brought to you by:

Check/money order #_______ ~ Please make payable to “Washington Gardener” Send this registration form along with your payment to: Washington Gardener, 826 Philadelphia Avenue, Silver Spring, MD 20910

If you’ve never been to the Philadelphia Flower Show, this is your opportunity to escape from the last of winter’s cold winds and experience a garden paradise. Walk through floral wonderlands, take notes at one of the many workshops, enjoy new plants on display, and shop the vendors’ tempting array of goodies.

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Code 3/9 Silver Spring

Fee: $100.00 each $95.00 each for Washington Gardener Magazine subscribers

TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS DC-Area Gardening Calendar ~ Upcoming Events ~ January 16–February 15, 2016 • Friday, January 22, 12midnight Washington Gardener Photo Contest Entry Deadline. See details on page 9.

• Sunday, January 24, 2pm Healthy Soil — Healthy Roses The Potomac Rose Society presents Dr. Andrew Ristvey, University of Maryland Extension Plant Nutritionist and Sustainable Soil Specialist. Behnke Nurseries Co., 11300 Baltimore Ave., Beltsville, MD. See http://www.rosesociety.net/.

• Tuesday, January 26, 7:30pm Year of the Conifer: An Introduction For the past five years, the Maryland Native Plant Society has selected a group of plants to highlight, study, and appreciate. 2016 is MNPS “Year of the Conifer.” Karyn Molines will present an overview of the unique adaptations of conifers and their role in native ecosystems, and provide some identification tips and tricks. Silver Spring Civic Center, 1 Veterans Pl., Silver Spring, MD. The program is open to nonmembers.

Registration is not required. See http:// mdflora.org/.

• Wednesday, January 27, 7:30 pm Planting in a Post-Wild World Thomas Ranier will present “Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for More Resilient Landscapes.” This groundbreaking talk presents a powerful alternative to traditional horticulture designed plantings that function like naturally occurring plant communities. Join landscape architect Thomas Rainer, a leading voice in ecological landscape design, to learn how plants fit together in nature and how to use this knowledge to create landscapes that are resilient, beautiful, and diverse.

The public is welcome and admission is free. Refreshments will be served following the program. The Beltsville Garden Club hosts this meeting in the multi-purpose room of the Duckworth School, 11201 Evans Tr., Beltsville, MD. • Saturday, January 30, 12:30–4pm Washington Gardener Seed Exchanges at Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, MD. See details on page 14–15.

• Saturday, February 6, 12:30–4pm Washington Gardener Seed Exchanges at Green Spring Gardens in Alexandria, VA. See details on page 14–15.

• Sunday, February 7, 10am–3pm The National Capital Orchid Society holds its 38th Annual Orchid Auction Plan to join the feeding frenzy — more than 300 rare and unusual blooming (or near-blooming-size) orchids from well-known growers coast to coast, and private collections. One of the largest orchid auctions in the United States.

Pictures of the blooms will be projected on the screen for each orchid being auctioned. Held at Behnke Nurseries Co., 11300 Baltimore Ave., Beltsville, MD. Sponsored by the National Capital Orchid Society; see www.ncos.us for more info. Free admission. The public is welcome.

•Tuesday, February 9, 7–8:30pm Vegetable Gardening: Planning & Seeding Virginia Cooperative Extension Master Gardeners of Northern Virginia (Alexandria/Arlington) will present workshops in February at three locations in Arlington and Alexandria. The workshops are free and open to the public. Designed for beginning vegetable gardeners, they will address best management practices for site selection, soil requirements, and soil improvement, as well as provide guidance on crop selection and planting schedules. The first one is in the Senior Lounge at Walter Reed Recreation Center, 2909 16th St. South, Arlington VA. The others are scheduled for Tuesday, February 16, 7–8:30pm, at the Kate Waller Barrett Branch Library, 717 Queen St., Alexandria, and on Saturday, February 20, 10:30am–12noon, at the Ellen Coolidge Burke Branch Library, 4701 Seminary Rd., Alexandria. Advance registration is requested.

Register at mgnv.org. Questions? Call 703-228-6414 or send an email to mgarlalex.org.

Save These Future Dates: • February 18–October 2 Flora of the National Parks In celebration of the 100th anniversary of the National Park Service, this art

exhibit at the U.S. Botanic Garden will showcase some of the plant species and communities found throughout the more than 400 national parks. The national parks contain a diverse representation of North American flora. Illustrations, paintings, and photography will take you on a tour of the beauty and importance of American flora.

•Saturday, February 27, 9am–4:30pm Rooting DC Conference 60 workshop sessions from pest identification to herbalism to food politics, plus 60 local nonprofits, businesses, and government agencies at the information fair. See http://rootingdc.org.

• February 27–April 17 Orchids in Focus Orchids in Focus at the U.S. Botanic Garden, in partnership with Smithsonian Gardens, highlights the world’s largest plant family and the USBG’s most extensive plant collection. Found on every continent except Antarctica, orchids amaze with their diversity of forms and colors. Come see for yourself why these exotic beauties have inspired artists and photographers for centuries.

Immerse yourself in a floral paradise of orchids from the forest canopy down to the ground, and focus your own camera on these unique and beautiful plants.

See more at: http://www.usbg.gov/.

• Philadelphia Flower Show Trips with Washington Gardener Magazine • March 9, 2016, depart from downtown Silver Spring, MD • March 10, 2016, depart from Behnke Nurseries in Beltsville, MD

Still More Event Listings

See even more event listings on the Washington Gardener Yahoo discussion list. Join the list at http://groups.yahoo. com/group/WashingtonGardener/.

How to Submit Local Garden Events

To submit an event for this listing, please contact: Wgardenermag@aol. com — put “Event” in the subject line.

Our next deadline is February 10 for the February 15 issue, for events taking place from February 16–March 15. o JANUARY 2016

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Join Us for: Seed Swapping Door Prizes Planting Tips Expert Speakers Goody Bags Washington Gardener Magazine presents the

Washington Gardener magazine, the publication for DC-area gardening enthusiasts, is hosting the 11th annual Washington Seed Exchange at Brookside Gardens and Green Spring Gardens. These seed swaps are inperson and face-to-face. You bring your extra seeds and swap them with other gardeners. Everyone will leave with a bag full of seeds, new garden friends, and expert planting advice.

When

On Saturday, January 30, 2016, in MD and on Saturday, February 6, 2016, in VA from 12:30–4:00PM (Foul weather that day? Call 240.603.1461, for updates about possible snow/ice delay.)

11th Annual Washington Gardener

Where

on Saturday, January 30, 2016 National Seed Swap Day! from 12:30–4:00PM

How to Register

Seed Exchange at Brookside Gardens in Wheaton, MD AND

on Saturday, February 6, 2016 from 12:30–4:00PM

at Green Spring Gardens in Alexandria, VA

Registration is now open at www.washingtongardener.com.

Space is limited, so act today!

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Overview

Washington Gardener Magazine subscribers get $5 off the $20 attendee fee!

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JANUARY 2016

We are holding dual Seed Exchanges one week apart on opposite sides of the Washington Beltway. We urge you to attend the one closest to you.

One exchange will be held at Brookside Gardens, 11800 Glenallan Ave., Wheaton, MD. The other will be at Green Spring Gardens, 4603 Green Spring Road, Alexandria, VA. Fill out the form on the opposite page.

Send the form, along with payment, to Washington Gardener, 826 Philadelphia Ave., Silver Spring, MD 20910, Attn: SE Registration. Please make checks out to “Washington Gardener.”

Registration fee is $20 per person in advance. Friends of Brookside (FOB) members, Friends of Green Springs members, and current Washington Gardener subscribers receive a discount rate of $15 per person.

We strongly urge you to register in advance. There is a limited enrollment of 100 participants at each location and we expect both to sell out, so be sure to register early!

We are GREEN!!!

Garden Book and Seed Catalog Exchange

Seed Exchange attendees are encouraged to bring their used or new garden books and seed catalogs to swap and share at this year’s event. We also ask you to bring your own water bottle or reusable mug and a home-made nametag. We will have a “best nametag” contest, so get crafty!

Hashtags #GardenDC and #SeedSwapDay

Washington Gardener Magazine’s 11th Annual

Seed Exchange Details

If You Have Seeds to Bring and Swap

Please package them in resealable plastic zipper or wax sandwich baggies. Put an average of 20 seeds per baggy — more for small seeds like lettuce, fewer for large seeds like acorns. Label each baggy with a white sticker (such as Avery standard 5160 address label sheets) giving all the information you have on the seeds. If known, include the plant's common and scientific names; its soil, sun, and watering needs; and, its origins — where and when you collected the seeds. If you don't know all the information, that is okay; just provide as much as you can.

Yes, you can bring unused or opened commercial seed packs.

What If You Don't Have Any Seeds to Swap?

Come anyway! Even if you don’t have any seeds to trade, you are welcome to attend!

We'll have plenty of extra seed contributions on hand and many attendees will be there just to learn, network, and prepare for next year's seed collecting.

Education Program

Expert speakers from the local gardening community will give short talks on seed collection and propagation tips. There will be ample time for individual Q&A throughout the program with the featured speakers, and invited experts as well.

Schedule

(Note: This schedule is subject to change.)

12:00-12:30 Registration check-in 12:30-12:40 Introductions 12:40-1:20 Gardening talk 1:20-1:55 Gardening talk 2:00-2:15 Snack break and room reset 2:15-2:30 Seed Swap preview time 2:30-3:00 Seed Swap 3:00-3:30 Photo Contest winners 3:30-4:00 Door prizes and closing talk

How Do We Swap?

As you check-in, staff will collect your seeds and place them at the appropriate seed category tables.

You will be assigned a random seed swap number. There will be a short period for attendees to preview all the seeds brought in and available for swapping. You will be called in by your number to pick a seed pack from each of the category tables (if desired).

After the initial seed swap is complete, attendees are free to take any of the left over seeds and to trade seeds with each other.

Dividing of packets is encouraged and extra baggies with labels will be on hand for that purpose.

What Types of Seeds?

Seed swap categories will include natives, edibles, herbs, exotics, annuals, perennials, and woodies (trees/shrubs). If you can presort your seeds in advance into whichever of these seven major categories fits best, that would help us speed up the process on the swap day.

Door Prizes! Goodie Bags!

Each attendee will receive a goodie bag at the seed swap. The bags include seeds, publications, and garden items donated by our sponsors. In addition, we have some incredible door prizes to give away especially for area gardeners.

If your organization would like to contribute seeds or garden-related products for the goodie bags and door prizes, please contact Kathy Jentz at 301.588.6894 by January 21.

11th Annual Washington Gardener Seed Exchange Advance Registration Form

Please fill out this form and mail with your check/money order by January 25, 2016, to: Washington Gardener Magazine, 826 Philadelphia Ave., Silver Spring MD 20910

Name:____________________________________________________________________________________ Street Address:____________________________________________________________________________ Email:____________________________________________________________________________________ Seed Exchange Date and Location:  Jan. 30 at Brookside Gardens  Feb. 6 at Green Spring Gardens (We will only use your email address for Seed Exchange notices and will never share them with anyone else.)

Seed Exchange Attendee Fee: $20.00 __________ Discount (if eligible*): -$5.00 __________ Optional: Washington Gardener Magazine Annual Subscription: $20.00 __________ TOTAL_____________ *The following groups are eligible to pay the discount attendee rate of $15.00; please CIRCLE if one applies to you: • Washington Gardener Magazine subscribers • Friends of Brookside Gardens • Friends of Green Spring Gardens **A portion of the event proceeds will go to benefit Save Our Monarchs Foundation for planting Milkweed seeds.** JANUARY 2016

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BOOKreviews

Red Hot Chili Grower: The Complete Guide to Planting, Picking, and Preserving

By Kay Maguire Publisher: Mitchell Beazley List Price: $14.99 Reviewer: Peter Pepper.

The growing popularity of hot chile (or chili) peppers in the garden and in the kitchen has contributed to global warming. Grown as an ornamental, a spice, or a food, chile peppers continue their unstoppable expansion, which started long ago in South America and rapidly spread around the world after 1492.

This book furthers that conquest and the learned human behavior for spicy foods. Nothing in the garden has the variety of colors and shapes that the pepper pod will mature to.

The focus of the book is hot chile peppers, but everything that is said about hot chilies applies to all peppers. (“Sweet peppers” are peppers that lack the capsicum-making gene, the hot stuff.) All peppers when ripe are sweet, so hot peppers are both sweet and hot.

The shape of the pepper has nothing to do with the heat level and even the popular bell pepper comes in hot varieties.

The major difference in growing is that hot peppers tend to take a little longer to germinate and longer to fruit, which may better reflect their lesshybridized, wild, semi-tropical ancestry rather than the more-hybridized, nothot peppers consumed in Northern Europe and North America. In the eat16

WASHINGTON GARDENER

JANUARY 2016

ing, the difference is most decidedly pronounced with the hottest peppers giving the feeling that the eater’s fillings will melt or head is going numb with pain.

Red Hot Chili Grower is divided into four principal chapters. The author starts with a very short history and description of peppers. She then proceeds to a more developed chapter on growing chilies from seeds or sprouts, to summer harvest, and to wintering over (which is most difficult). She provides all the practical advice a gardener, from beginner to master, needs to know to successfully raise a fine crop of the piquant pod. The third chapter provides a review of hot peppers to grow, many of which are perhaps more useful as colorful ornamentals in any landscape or garden. The book closes with a chapter on using and preserving chilies as the end harvest, which can be quite large, although to a true chili-head, the harvest is never large enough.

The author draws on her experience as a gardener in England. The warmer Mid-Atlantic United States is that much better for growing peppers (and its relatives, the tomatoes and eggplant).

Peppers, although finicky at times, do well in this area, so there is little excuse not to grow at least a few.

The book is amply and usefully illustrated for any gardener and makes a fine gift for anyone interested in the pepper.

Peter Pepper is a long-time pepper enthusiast. He gardens in Silver Spring, MD.

Grow Your Own Natural Garden: Taking Inspiration from Nature

By Carol Klein Publisher: Mitchell Beazley List Price: $34.99 Reviewer: Joelle Lang Carol Klein’s Grow Your Own Natural Garden: Taking Inspiration from Nature, is a great resource for someone interested in thinking about where they garden, the similarities between their gardening spaces and wild habitats, and what kinds of plants would flourish in certain environments. This book does not contain, as the author warns, “fool-proof solutions or quick-fix formulae to solve all your horticultural

woes.” This book, which runs a little long at 278 pages, does not cater to the beginner gardener; rather, to someone with some horticulture experience. Nonetheless, this book contains detailed and valuable information and myth-busting facts about gardening and plants that will interest the more experienced planter.

This book is separated into six environments, including woodland, seaside, exposed, hedgerow, wetland, and meadow. In addition to sharing information about plants, each section includes case studies about real-life gardens resembling each environment.

For example, in a case study in the seaside section, Klein discusses the many plants that grow at a seaside garden in southern Cornwall, UK. In another case study on wetlands, she talks about the 20-acre garden called Marwood Hills.

After detailing the history of the garden, she discusses the plants that grow alongside the garden’s swamps. These case studies animate the informative tone of the book, bringing to life the discussion that precedes it.

Another highlight of the book is the plant directory that concludes each section. This directory profiles each plant mentioned in the section of the book, with a picture and a short description of the plant. This section is extremely helpful in understanding the plant jargon that fills the book and serves as a useful summary of the section.

This book is filled with beautiful photography by Jonathan Buckley. The

BOOKreviews book not only makes use of the photos as visual aids, but also showcases Buckley’s work by giving his photos fullpage slots. While this book is lengthy, readers can pick the environments that best apply to their personal gardens and handpick the information they need.

ciently – make sure you read all those sidebars.

The only negative to this book is (I suspect) a budgetary one — the illustrations are all two-tone, green and blue, which makes many of the drawings and photos look odd. It would have been nice to get full-color examples of all those “thriller, filler, spiller” displays.

You’ll just have to use your imagination — or use the book to create your own pots full of plenty!

Joelle Lang is a senior at the University of Maryland, College Park. She is a multi-platform journalism student in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism. This past autumn semester, she was also an editorial intern for Washington Gardener Magazine.

Edible Spots & Pots: Small-Space Gardens for Growing Vegetables and Herbs in Containers, Raised Beds, and More

By Stacey Hirvela Publisher: Rodale Books List Price: $23.99 Reviewer: Erica H. Smith Yet another book about container gardening, I thought when I picked it up for review. Small-Space Gardens for Growing Vegetables and Herbs in Containers, Raised Beds, and More, reads the subtitle — hasn’t this been done many times before? But if your shelves are not already full of similar though less adorable titles, or if you’re just beginning to grow edibles in sunny corners or on the deck, rather than in a traditional in-ground vegetable garden, this is a great book to get you started (and keep you growing).

“Spots and pots” equals “raised beds and containers,” but it’s a good shorthand way of thinking about available growing space. You can turn any spot in your yard into a vegetable garden, Hirvela tells us, no matter how small, as long as it gets sun. Soil type is irrelevant, because you will be growing above the existing soil — or even on a driveway or other solid surface.

This is an encouraging book with a lot of useful information, and it strikes a nice balance between purely practical food production and an obsession with esthetics — yes, vegetables in containers can be attractive, but you also need to know how to grow them effectively.

Hirvela recommends the “thriller, filler, spiller” format often used in ornamental container gardening for edibles as well, and offers many examples of com-

binations that will grow well together and look pretty, without crowding each other out.

The book opens with a discussion of containers and how to choose and use them, including the basics of plant choice and good coverage of growing media and their components. The next chapter covers raised beds, including materials, construction, and soil. Then it’s on to the growing process, including seed-starting, watering, fertilizing, composting, stakes and other supports, pests and diseases, and fall clean-up.

Several DIY projects, like trellises and grow bags, are described in detail.

Common (and a few uncommon) vegetables and herbs that grow well in containers and raised beds are listed, with growing information, recommended varieties, and suggestions specific to container culture.

I like Hirvela’s willingness to skewer gardening myths along the way, like putting space fillers at the bottom of pots, using companion planting tips out of folklore, or placing baby diapers in hanging baskets to store and release water into the soil. (It doesn’t work — just think about the function of diapers for a minute.) She’s also willing to discuss the possible dangers of treated lumber and the pluses and minuses of self-watering containers, and admits that you may need to use floating row cover on your plants while insects are active. There’s not a lot of information about keeping animal pests away, but there are many handy hints about gardening more productively and effi-

Erica is a Montgomery County Master Gardener, runs the Grow It Eat It blog for the University of Maryland Extension, and grows vegetables in her own community garden plot and in the MG Demonstration Garden in Derwood, MD. She is the author of several novels; visit her web site at ericahsmith.wordpress.com.

Garden Book Club

For our Washington Gardener Garden Book Club Winter Meeting we will be discussing The Invention of Nature: Alexander von Humboldt’s New World by Andrea Wulf.

Please join us on Thursday, February 11 from 6:30–8pm at Soupergirl, located right next to the Takoma metro stop.

The acclaimed author of Founding Gardeners reveals the forgotten life of Alexander von Humboldt, the visionary German naturalist whose ideas changed the way we see the natural world and in the process created modern environmentalism.

Please RSVP to washingtongardener @rcn.com or at the book club event page: Facebook.com/WashingtonGardenerMagazine

by February 9, so we know how many chairs to hold for our group.

Here are the rest of our 2016 selections for the Washington Gardener Magazine’s Garden Book Club: • SPRING — The Rambunctious Garden: Saving Nature in a Post-Wild World by Emma Marris • SUMMER — Planting in a Post-Wild World: Designing Plant Communities for Resilient Landscapes by Thomas Rainer and Claudia West • FALL — Paradise Under Glass: An Amateur Creates a Conservatory Garden

by Ruth Kassinger The Washington Gardener Magazine’s Garden Book Club is free and open to all.

We meet quarterly on a weekday evening near a metro-accessible location in the DCarea. We will announce the details of each upcoming meeting about two months in advance.o JANUARY 2016

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KNOWitall

Ask the Expert

by Debra Ricigliano

Succession Planting

Our vegetable garden will be two years old this spring. We did have a decent harvest last season, but I would like to plan our garden more carefully so that I can harvest even more vegetables. I have heard the term succession planting and was wondering what it meant.

Can you give me some tips for getting the most out of our garden?

The term succession planting has more than one meaning. It is used to describe replacing a crop soon after it matures. This practice can help you possibly plant in three growing seasons using the same piece of land.

For example, cool-season crops like spinach, broccoli, lettuce, and peas are followed by warm-season crops like beans, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants. Depending on the weather, they can then be followed by more cool-season plants or a cover crop in late summer-early fall. A floating row cover can also be used to protect plants from frost in the early spring and fall, extending the season even further.

Succession planting can also refer to planting the same crop at 10–14 day intervals, providing continuous production over the summer. This is sometimes called relay planting. One example is bush beans, which can be planted from about mid-May until early August.

plant as a substitute that will also provide the same affect?

Burning Bush (Euonymus alatus) is a shrub that is used in many landscapes to the point that it is overused. Its major drawback is that it is invasive, spreading into native areas and displacing the plants that should be growing there.

There some native alternatives that will provide the fall color you are looking for and provide interest in other seasons, too. Oakleaf Hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifolia), Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica), Mapleleaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium), and Northern or Southern Highbush Blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) are native shrubs with beautiful ornamental value. The Gatsby Moon™ Oakleaf Hydrangea from Proven Winners/Spring Meadows Nursery is pictuted at bottom, left.

Vacant Wasp Nest

There is a large wasp nest in my Kousa Dogwood. It is the size of a football or larger. It looks very papery and it has a distinct hole at the bottom. Can I assume that it is vacant now so I can remove it from the tree or do you think there are still wasps in it?

This sounds like a bald-faced hornet nest. Bald-faced hornets are black-andwhite wasps, 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch long. They are social wasps, so they construct a nest to raise their colony.

The nest is made from chewed wood fibers and does appear papery.

After a hard frost, the occupants of the colony die. The queen has already left to overwinter in a protected location. You can safely remove it now. In early spring, the queen will select a suitable location to begin construction of a new nest in another spot. The nest starts out pretty small, but grows to large proportions after workers take over the task of building it over the summer.

Early Blooming Hellebore Alternatives to the Invasive Burning Bush

I am redoing a portion of my landscape.

I have always loved burning bush, but I saw it listed in a publication about invasive plants. The fall color is so beautiful. Is there a native shrub I can 18

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I was surprised to see that my Hellebores were blooming already. This has been the earliest I can remember that happening. They usually bloom in February or March. I assume the warm weather is to blame. Will this be a problem?

Yes, the unusually warm winter has

prompted your Hellebores and many other flowers, shrubs, and trees to bloom uncharacteristically early. We can thank the El Niño weather pattern for that. There may be fewer flowers on display this spring because so many flower buds have already opened, but ideally it may not even be that evident. Your Hellebores should be okay. Enjoy the flowers now (they make wonderful cut flowers). We will need to wait and see if woody plants sustain winter damage because they did not get a chance to sufficiently harden off during the warm fall and early winter. o Debra Ricigliano is a Certified Professional Horticulturist. She has worked as a horticulture consultant for the University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center since 1997. Debra enjoys gardening at her home in Highland, MD. She is a graduate of the Institute of Applied Agriculture at UMCP and a talented, all-around horticulturist. To ask a gardening or pest question, go to http://www.extension.umd.edu/hgic and click on “Ask Maryland’s Garden Experts.”

You can also attach a digital photo.

Got a gardening question you need answered? Send your questions to wgardenermag@aol.com and use the subject line “Q&A.” Please also include your first name, last initial, and the city and state you are writing from. Then look for your answered questions in upcoming issues.

PRODUCTreview

Grow Anywhere in Smart Pots®

by Louise Clarke Don’t have the energy or desire to make another garden bed? Live in the city with only a balcony or the tiniest patch of compacted, weedy turf? Smart Pots® are the savvy gardener’s inexpensive answer to growing in challenging situations. From city lots to suburbia and beyond, these soft-sided, durable, USAmade, breathable fabric containers expand your growing possibilities.

Pictured at right is a crop of celery plants growing in Smart Pots on a rooftop in Quebec City, Quebec, Canada.

They were in use all over that city as a clever gardening solution for their very short, Zone 4 growing season.

I first saw Smart Pots at MANTS, the annual green industry trade show held in Baltimore, MD. With multiple sizes and colors from 3 to 20 gallons and the Big Bag Bed Jr., I left with my arms stuffed with my loot and schemed how to use them. The Big Bag Bed series come in three sizes, from 15 to 50 to 100 gallons, and provide 12" depth.

My gardening focus is on flowers and foliage, but the undergardener was clamoring for space to grow vegetables.

I didn’t want to dig a dedicated vegeta-

ble bed in my pocket-sized garden, so we agreed to try two 36" Big Bag Bed Juniors in Baltimore Ravens’ purple.

We placed them on the sunny, southwest facing brick patio, and filled them with a soil-less grow mix. To add vertical growing space, I repurposed 8' flexible wire concrete reinforcing forms, which I anchored in each Smart Pot, creating an arch.

My furry garden pests are occasional squirrels and feral cats, so to discourage my Smart Pots from becoming acorn nurseries or potty stops, I stapled bird netting over the surface until plants were tall enough to daunt felines. Early seeded crops included lettuces, rainbow chard, carrots, scallions, broccoli, kale, turnips, and peas, which climbed my arch and made for easy harvesting. As the weather warmed,

heirloom tomatoes, squash, and tricolor bush beans moved in, as well as cheerful Zinnias and Cardinal Climber.

The vibrant colors, convenience, success, and freshness of my crops convinced me of Smart Pots’ benefits; they fared much better than the Ravens this year!

Additional virtues include the inability to overwater. During summer’s heat, I watered morning and night, and never waterlogged the plants. Roots in Smart Pots contact air at pot’s edge and selfprune, developing a fibrous network, and avoid circling, common in rigid pots. I can attest to root robustness, as I struggled to yank October’s limp, frost-bitten tomato plants. Unlike rigid containers, Smart Pot soil remains at ambient air temperatures, which avoids heat-stressing the roots. These grow bags are also great for lining decorative pots as they mold to the pot’s interior shape, and the handled bags make removal at season’s end easy, allowing you to shelter those expensive, decorative pots that cringe at freezing weather.

Smart Pots can be emptied and stored for future use, or left in place like mine.

I’ll add compost in spring to replenish nutrients and then plant them anew.

Visit SmartPots.com, BigBagBed.com, or the Smart Pots Facebook page for more information and inspiration. Start thinking now of how you’ll use these to grow your garden. I see purple potatoes in my future, to match my purple Smart Pots. o Louise Clarke is a degreed horticulturist employed by the Morris Arboretum in Philadelphia, PA, where she tends more than 1,200 woody plants and two green roofs, as well as leading workshops, writing, and lecturing on horticultural topics. As a zone-denial gardener, after hours, she tends Halcyon, her lush home garden, a mixture of tender tropicals, bulbs, perennials, unusual annuals, and vines. She rarely has time to admire the garden while seated in her tiki hut, made from repurposed materials.

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NEIGHBORnwork

Meet Holly Shimizu

We caught up with her at the recent Trees Matters Conference, where she gave the opening talk.

When and how did you become interested in horticulture?

I was really interested in the natural world and always wanted to be outdoors; my favorite place was to be at the river — hiking the trails and looking for crayfish. My grandfather lived on cliffs in Rhode Island and he had an extensive vegetable garden. I had no interest in weeding, but loved the harvests of sun-warmed raspberries, pears, carrots, and fresh parsley. I also spent countless hours in the Japanese Garden in Fairmount Park (I grew up in Philadelphia). The Japanese Garden seemed like a magical place for me — walking along the stones set in the water or the tea house — and it felt like being in another world. When it came time to go to college, I was clueless until my mother took me to see the Temple University Ambler Campus, where they had a horticulture program.

It clicked and that was the beginning.

What was the best piece of gardening advice you received?

Plants die; it is okay.

Since I’ve known my husband Osamu (who is a Japanese garden designer), it has been a continual experience of learning. We visit gardens together and I learn from him and how he sees things because of his profession as a garden designer.

Interview by Joelle Lange Photos by Daniel Weil Holly Shimizu is a nationally recognized horticulturist, consultant, and educator.

With a rich background in all aspects of public gardens, extensive experience leading garden tours and workshops, and a proven commitment to plant conservation and sustainability, she has been making plants and gardens more accessible and exciting to both professionals and amateurs for over four decades. Some of her accomplishments 20

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include serving as the executive director of the United States Botanic Garden from 2000 to 2014; working in worldfamous gardens such as Wisely, the Royal Horticulturist Society’s garden in England; and hosting the PBS gardening show, Victory Garden, for 10 years.

She is also the author of numerous magazine articles and books on garden topics, such as Gardening in Small Spaces.

How did you come to work at the U.S. Botanic Garden?

I worked at the U.S. National Arboretum as the curator of the National Herb Garden for eight years and was ready for a change. I was able to get a job at the U.S. Botanic Garden as head of Public Programs. I focused on developing programs and outreach.

What was your experience like at the U.S. Botanic Garden?

A series of challenges, but I always have enjoyed working in a public garden. We always tried to find creative ways to make plants exciting and always tried to push the envelope in terms of making people want to come here. We wanted to find ways to attract people from all over, including tourists and local resi-

NEIGHBORnwork dents. What could we do so they would be happy coming here? It’s a great challenge, and a very fun challenge, trying to make it interesting to a broad group of people. How do you welcome people and make them feel special? What do you do to make this really memorable?

It’s a continual challenge. You always have to make sure the garden looks good every day, you have to incorporate interesting designs and local plants, and you have to have great staff to make it a positive and inspiring experience. It’s not easy. There’s complexity to really trying to make a public garden great — it’s not the snap of a finger. All kinds of things have to happen together.

What did you enjoy about serving as a correspondent for the Victory Garden program?

I loved the places we visited and especially the people we met. There was a series of stories we did in Costa Rica that were especially interesting to me.

One was about an eco center where you could stay and learn about how they make it 100 percent sustainable. The water from the toilets was sent through a series of planted terraces and by the time it reached the base of the terraces, it was clean and could be reused.

Everything at this eco center was completely sustainable. It was an inspiring story and fun for me, I was always learning and having a great time and trying to convey that on camera.

We went to Wilson Botanical Gardens, designed by Roberto Burle Marx, a famous landscape architect from Brazil.

We went into the forest and we met with a shaman who talked to us about the medicinal use of plants. That was really cool.

Another one that I really found fascinating was a story we did in Bermuda on an island with a man who was doing research on habitats and their effects on birds and birdlife, and measuring plants and birds and their relations.

Along with that story, we went to the beach and he showed us how he analyzes the trash that washes up on the beach — it’s unbelievable and scary.

The trash that washed up came in from ships from many countries around the world. We especially noticed a lot from Russian ships on the day we were checking. It is drifting and washing up

on these islands, and its impact of pollution on the oceans is unbelievable. It was very interesting to show people on camera the impact of trash in the ocean and where it washes up. Its impact on sea life is a frightening wake-up call.

What advice would you give a beginner gardener?

Just try it. We learn from our mistakes.

Most gardeners are generous people and they love sharing. It is great to have plants from friends in your own garden, so that a piece of them is with you.

How did you come to contribute to books on gardening? What was the research and writing process like?

I like to write from my own experience or collaborate with others so we get a broader experience. It makes work much more fun and interesting, and you end up with a lot more material. I like working with other people.

I like to relay my experiences because

I think that in horticulture we can all have different experiences with gardening and I like to compare notes on what works and what doesn’t work. I love researching at the Library of Congress. I love to see some of the amazing books that they have.

Looking back at your long career in horticulture, what was your most rewarding experience?

Being the executive director of the U.S. Botanic Garden was the most rewarding experience because of the great people I worked with and the many projects we worked on together. Seeing people come to the garden and be inspired always made me happy. o Joelle Lang is a senior at the University of Maryland, College Park. She is a multi-platform journalism student in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism. This past autumn semester, she was also an editorial intern for Washington Gardener Magazine.

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READERreactions

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December 2015 Issue “Just read the latest issue of Washington Gardener. I was really pleased to have my company name mentioned as the original designer of the Blair Garden at Woodend. However, that is not quite accurate. Thornton Burnet of Concepts & Contours was the co-designer.” ~ Jane Collins, Jane Collins Landscape Design, Arlington, VA “My favorite article in the December 2015 issue of Washington Gardener is: ‘Yellow Root’ by Barry Glick. Glick carefully makes the point (proves the point) that four-season gardening also includes year ‘round observing what is happening to all of your plant material.

He also provides some succinct ‘lesson’ explanations on how to achieve success in your garden.” ~ George Graine, Falls Church, VA

Plant an extra row in your garden and deliver the harvest to a local food bank or shelter. The need is great!

With your help, PAR can continue to make a difference for America’s most vulnerable.

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“My favorite article was about the local flower growers. I love learning about local farmers.” ~ Edward Constable, Washington, DC “My favorite article in the December issue was the one on wild tulips. Tulips are my favorite bulb flower and I’ve always thought of them as finicky and fragile. This got me to see tulips in a different light.” ~ Madeline Caliendo, Washington, DC “My favorite article from the December issue was the one about the local flower growers... I applaud your intern for a very lively interview and am hoping to go to the Philadelphia Flower Show this spring.” ~ Amy Plotnick “I particularly enjoy the Garden Tasks To-Do List in Washington Gardener, as it keeps me on track for what I should be accomplishing each garden season.” ~ Susan Walker, Takoma Park, MD

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MARCH/APRIL 2005 • Landscape DIY vs. Pro • Prevent Gardener’s Back • Ladew Topiary Gardens • Cherry Trees

MAY/JUNE 2007 • Roses: Easy Care Tips • Native Roses & Heirloom Roses • Edible Flowers • How to Plant a Bare-root Rose

MAY/JUNE 2005 • Stunning Plant Combinations • Turning Clay into Rich Soil • Wild Garlic • Strawberries

JULY/AUGUST 2007 • Groundcovers: Alternatives to Turfgrass • How to Pinch, Prune, & Dead-head • William Paca House & Gardens • Hardy Geraniums

JULY/AUGUST 2005 • Water Gardens • Poison Ivy • Disguising a Sloping Yard • Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2007 • Succulents: Hardy to our Region • Drought-Tolerant Natives • Southern Vegetables • Seed Saving Savvy Tips

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005 • Container Gardens • Clematis Vines • Sponge Gardening/Rain Gardens • 5 Insect Enemies of Gardeners

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2007 • Gardening with Children • Indoor Bulb-Forcing Basics • National Museum of the American Indian • Versatile Viburnums

NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005 • Backyard Bird Habitats • Hellebores • Building a Coldframe • Bulb Planting Basics

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008 • Dealing with Deer • Our Favorite Garden Tools • Delightful Daffodils

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006 • Garden Decor Principles • Primroses • Tasty Heirloom Veggies • U.S. Botanic Garden MARCH/APRIL 2006 • Top 10 Small Trees and Large Shrubs • Azaleas • Figs, Berries, & Persimmons • Basic Pruning Principles MAY/JUNE 2006 • Using Native Plants in Your Landscape • Crabgrass • Peppers • Secret Sources for Free Plants JULY/AUGUST 2006 • Hydrangeas • Theme Gardens • Agave • Find Garden Space by Growing Up SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006 • Shade Gardening • Hosta Care Guide • Fig-growing Tips and Recipes NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006 • Horticultural Careers • Juniper Care Guide • Winter Squash Growing Tips and Recipes • Layer/Lasagna Gardening

MARCH/APRIL 2008 • Patio, Balcony, Rooftop Container Gardens • Our Favorite Garden Tools • Coral Bells (Heucheras) MAY/JUNE 2008 — ALMOST SOLD OUT! • Growing Great Tomatoes • Glamorous Gladiolus • Seed-Starting Basics • Flavorful Fruiting Natives JULY/AUGUST 2008 • Landscaping with Ornamental Grasses • Edible Grasses to Graze On • Slug and Snail Control • Sage Advice: Sun-Loving Salvias SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008 • Autumn Edibles — What to Plant Now • Beguiling Barrenworts (Epimediums) • Best Time to Plant Spring-blooming Bulbs • 14 Dry Shade Plants Too Good to Overlook NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008 • Outdoor Lighting Essentials • How to Prune Fruiting Trees, Shrubs, Vines • 5 Top Tips for Overwintering Tender Bulbs • Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009 • Compost Happens: Nature’s Free Fertilizer • Managing Stormwater with a Rain Garden • Visiting Virginia’s State Arboretum • Grow Winter Hazel for Winter Color

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007 • Indoor Gardening • Daphne Care Guide • Asparagus Growing Tips and Recipes • Houseplant Propagation

MARCH/APRIL 2009 UT! • 40+ Free and Low-cost Local D O Garden Tips SOL • Spring Edibles Planting UT! Guide O LD for a Fresh Start • Testing Your SOSoil UT! • Redbud LD O Tree Selection and Care O S • Best Viewing Spots for Virginia Bluebells

MARCH/APRIL 2007 • Stormwater Management • Dogwood Selection & Care Guide • Early Spring Vegetable Growing Tips • Franciscan Monastery Bulb Gardens

MAY/JUNE 2009 • Top Easy Summer Annuals for DC Heat • Salad Table Project • Grow and Enjoy Eggplant • How to Chuck a Woodchuck

SUMMER 2009 • Grow Grapes in the Mid-Atlantic • Passionflowers • Mulching Basics • Growing Hops FALL 2009 • Apples • How to Save Tomato Seeds • Persimmons WINTER 2009 • Battling Garden Thugs • How to Start Seeds Indoors • Red Twig Dogwoods • Unusual Edibles to Grow in Our Region SPRING 2010 • Community Gardens • Building a Raised Bed • Dwarf Iris • Broccoli SUMMER 2010 • Fragrance Gardens • Watering Without Waste • Lavender • Potatoes FALL 2010 • Vines and Climbers • Battling Stink Bugs • Russian Sage • Garlic WINTER 2010 • Paths and Walkways • Edgeworthia • Kohlrabi SPRING 2011 • Cutting-Edge Gardens • Final Frost Dates and When to Plant • Bleeding Hearts • Onions SUMMER 2011 • Ornamental Edibles • Urban Foraging • Amsonia/Arkansas Blue Star • Growing Corn in the Mid-Atlantic FALL 2011 • Herb Gardens • Toad Lilies • Sweet Potatoes • Cool Weather Cover Crops WINTER 2011/EARLY SPRING 2012 • Green Roofs and Walls • Heaths and Heathers • Radishes SPRING 2012 • Pollinator Gardens • Brunnera: Perennial of the Year • Growing Yacon SUMMER 2012 • Tropical Gardens • Captivating Canna • Icebox Watermelons SPRING 2013 • Great Garden Soil • All About Asters • Squash Vine Borer SUMMER/FALL 2013 • Miniature/Faerie Gardens • Beguiling Abelias • Growing Great Carrots WINTER/EARLY SPRING 2014 • Ferns for the Mid-Atlantic • Chanticleer Gardens • Beet Growing Basics

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Jentz Prints

Antique Botanical Prints for the decorator, collector, connoisseur, and art lover.

Jentz Prints can be purchased on most Saturdays at the Eastern Market, and most Sundays at the Georgetown Flea Market.

Antique prints are affordable — most in the $10-$30 range — and they are the perfect gift idea for that plant lover in your life. And don’t forget to buy a few for yourself!

For more information, to make a private appointment, or to get a detailed show schedule, please contact Jentz Prints by email at UllrichJ@aol.com. You can also find Jentz Prints on eBay.com under the seller ID: printyman.

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