OCTOBER 2015 VOL. 10 NO. 8
WWW.WASHINGTONGARDENER.COM
WASHINGTON WAS W WASHINGTO ASHINGTO
ggardener
the magazine for gardening enthusiasts in the Mid-Atlantic region
Large Flowered Bellwort: A Pure Gold Native Your Garden Tasks To-Do List
How to Overwinter Geraniums Combating Rhododendron Borer Meet the New Director of the U.S. National Arboretum
Fall is for Planting: Giving Your Plants a Healthy Start Local Garden Events Calendar
Cauliflower:
Best Tested Bulb and Perennial Combinations
Growing Tips for Our Region
Edible Landscapes for the Home Gardener Coaching /Maintenance /Seasonal Services
www.LoveandCarrots.com
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RESOURCESsourc
Need a Garden Club Speaker?
Washington Gardener Magazine’s staff and writers are available to speak to groups and garden clubs in the greater DC region. Call 301.588.6894 or email wgardenermag@aol.com for available dates, rates, and topics.
GoGardeners Garden Coaching
RARE AND EXCEPTIONAL PLANTS FOR THE DISCRIMINATING GARDENER AND COLLECTOR Barry Glick Sunshine Farm and Gardens 696 Glicks Road Renick, WV 24966, USA Email: barry@sunfarm.com
Elise Stigliano Garden Coach elise@gogardeners.com • 301-518-8333
www.sunfarm.com
www.gogardeners.com
Specializing in Garden
Renewals & Renovations Yard By Yard Makeovers, LLC 7304 Carroll Avenue, #229 Takoma Park, MD 20912 301-270-4642 yardmakeovers@yahoo.com www.yardmakeovers.com
We can reshape and beautify neglected yards.
Green Spring Gardens
www.greenspring.org
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A “must visit” for everyone in the metropolitan Washington, DC, area. It’s a year-round gold mine of information and inspiration for the home gardener. It’s an outdoor classroom for children and their families to learn about plants and wildlife. It’s also a museum, a national historic site that offers glimpses into a long, rich history with colonial origins. Located at 4603 Green Spring Rd., Alexandria, VA. Information: 703-642-5173.
INSIDEcontents
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o Large Flowered Belllwort or Merrybells (Uvularia grandiflora) is an excellent companion plant for Ferns, Hellebores, Arisaemas, and Trilliums.
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Win a signed copy of Heaven is a Garden. The contest entry deadline is 5pm on October 30.
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FEATURES and COLUMNS
ASKtheexpert 10 Tree Roots, Overwintering Geraniums, River Birch Foliage BOOKreviews 14-15 Plants from Pits; Monet’s Water Lilies; Trees and Shrubs; Annuals and Perennials EDIBLEharvest 6-7 Cauliflower GARDENbasics 8 Fall is for Planting GOINGnative 19 Large Flowered Bellwort HORThappenings 9 NCOS Orchid Show, Chanticleer Book Party, Oehme van Sweden Exhibit, APLD Meeting INSECTindex 21 Rhododendron Borer NEIGHBORnetwork 16-17 Dr. Richard Olsen PRODUCTreview 20 Dramm Watering Wand TIPStricks 18 Common Tree Diseases, Bulb and Perennial Combos, Companion Herbs
DEPARTMENTS Meet Dr. Richard T. Olsen, who was recently named the new director of the U.S. National Arboretum.
Our tool-tester evaluates Dramm’s new one-touch watering wand and brass hose swivel.
ADVERTISINGindex BLOGlinks EDITORletter GARDENcontest LOCALevents MONTHLYtasklist NEXTissue RESOURCESsources
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ON THE COVER
Cauliflower ‘Macerata’ matures in about 70 days after being transplanted to the garden. Photo courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.
In our November 2015 issue:
Allium Bulbs
A profile of plantswoman Karen Rexrode and much more...
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If your business would like to reach area gardeners, be sure to contact us by November 10 so you can be part of the next issue of our growing publication! OCTOBER 2015
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EDITORletter
Credits Kathy Jentz Editor/Publisher & Advertising Sales Washington Gardener 826 Philadelphia Ave. Silver Spring, MD 20910 Phone: 301.588.6894 wgardenermag@aol.com www.washingtongardener.com Call today to place your ad with us! Ruth E. Thaler-Carter Proofreader Joelle Lang Intern Cover price: $4.99 Back issues: $6.00 Subscription: $20.00 Address corrections should be sent to the address above.
Your editor enjoying a raspberry-flavored libation at Chanticleer Gardens in Wayne, PA. Photo by Louise Clarke.
Autumn Meetings and Tours These last couple of months have been very busy with garden touring and meetings. In September, the Garden Writers Association met in Pasadena, CA, and I spoke there on using social media to generate garden article content. The southern California gardens were beautiful, but felt very foreign to me. Their prolonged drought aside, the Mediterranean plant palette is a dry one and it is hard to imagine working without many of the Eastern woodland natives that I love. Then the Association of Professional Landscape Designers’ annual International Design Conference took place last week in Washington, DC. We spent one whole day touring Maryland gardens and the next touring ones in DC and Virginia. Many of these private landscapes were new to me and sparked story ideas. Look in coming issues for some before-and-after pieces about these exemplary, professionally designed gardens. Touring gardens with a group of landscape designers is far different from doing so with garden writers! There is still the same jockeying for photos unobstructed by other tour-goers, of course, but designers jostle for photos of gates, paving, edging, etc., while garden writers bump elbows over planting beds and flower close-ups. It was refreshing to look at gardens with a designer’s eyes and not just focus on individual plantings. I will be looking at previously visited gardens anew on my next visits to them. I’ve shared many garden photos from both of these events to our Facebook page at www.facebook.com/WashingtonGardenerMagazine. Please visit the albums and leave a comment or two. Happy gardening (and reading)!
Kathy Jentz, Editor/Publisher, Washington Gardener, wgardenermag@aol.com 4
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• Washington Gardener Blog: www.washingtongardener.blogspot.com • Washington Gardener Archives: http://issuu.com/washingtongardener • Washington Gardener Discussion Group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ WashingtonGardener/ • Washington Gardener Twitter Feed: www.twitter.com/WDCGardener • Washington Gardener is a womanowned business. We are proud to be members of: · Garden Writers Association · Think Local First DC · DC Web Women · Green America Magazine Leaders Network · Green America Business Network To order reprints, contact Wright’s Reprints at 877.652.5295, ext. 138. Volume 10, Number 8 ISSN 1555-8959 © 2015 Washington Gardener All rights reserved. Published quarterly. No material may be reproduced without prior written permission. This magazine is purchased by the buyer with the understanding that the information presented is from various sources from which there can be no warranty or responsibility by the publisher as to legality, completeness, or technical accuracy. All uncredited photos in this issue are © Kathy Jentz.
READERcontt
Reader Contest
For our October 2015 Washington Gardener Reader Contest, Washington Gardener is giving a signed copy of Heaven is a Garden: Designing Serene Spaces for Inspiration and Reflection by Jan Johnsen (a prize value of $18.00). Why do some gardens make us feel so wonderful, relaxed, and refreshed? Using ideas based on ancient and modern practices, this book shows how you can uplift yourself and others in a serene setting designed for “unplugging” and relaxing. Whether you are intending to create a lovely garden or just thinking about a future outdoor haven, Heaven is a Garden will help you see your backyard in a whole new light and reawaken an awareness of the wonders of Nature. “Simplicity, Sanctuary, and Delight” is the guideline that noted landscape designer Jan Johnsen recommends in this elegantly written book. She draws on her 40 years in the profession and offers stunning visuals and specific ways to make a garden look glorious and feel harmonious at the same time. She reveals how to highlight a power spot, explores the lure of the sheltered corner, explains why a gate facing east is considered auspicious, and suggests which trees you can use to impart a special atmosphere. Gardeners will also enjoy the chapters on the mysteries of color, a rock’s resonance, and the magic of water. To enter to win a signed copy of Heaven is a Garden, send an email to WashingtonGardener@rcn.com by 5pm on Friday, October 30, with “Heaven” in the subject line and in the body of the email. Tell us which was your favorite article in this October 2015 issue of the magazine and why. Please also include your full name and mailing address. The pass winners will be announced and notified on November 1.
Caption Contest
We asked our Facebook page followers: What do you think these pitcher plants at Chanticleer Gardens are saying to each other? Look for more monthly caption contests at the Facebook.com/WashingtonGardenerMagazine page.
Winning Captions: “I keep hoping someone will fill us up with margaritas.” ~ Julie Blackwell “I was on the Paleo diet before it was mainstream...you?” ~ Tracy Tanner Bond “Wanna go shag some flies?” ~ Elizabeth Toepfer “Eat all your proteins, little fellow, and one day you’ll be as big as me!” ~ Tansy Tufton “Urp, I think that last one went down the wrong way.” ~ Mile Daniels “Wet feet, cold heart!” ~ Donna Norman
Pitcher plants photo by Kathy Jentz.
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EDIBLEharvt ‘Amazing’ cauliflower matures quickly and may be ready for harvest 60 days after being transplanted to the garden. Photo courtesy of www.ReneesGarden.com.
Cultivating Cauliflower by Elizabeth Olson Cauliflower is grown for its large, delicately flavored, rounded head of tightly packed curds that forms at the top of the tall and sturdy main stem of an upright plant. The texture of the head is firm and smooth when it is well-grown. This tasty annual vegetable is nutritious and low in calories; a one-half cup serving has no calories from fat and contains 45% of the daily recommendation for Vitamin C. The scientific name for cauliflower is Brassica oleracea (botrytis group). It is a member of the Brassicaceae family and should be in the same crop rotation schedule as related crops, including cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, kale, radishes, leafy mustard, etc. Cover crops such as other types of mustard and field radishes should also be considered in calculating the crop rotation schedule.
How to Grow Cauliflower
Cauliflower is an attractive plant and is most productive when planted for harvest before or after the very hot weather of summer. The plants are easy to start from seed and prefer a moderate growing season, but can grow well in the greater Washington, DC, growing region. Some modern cultivars have been developed to improve the climate tolerance of this delicious vegetable, but the most reliable harvest is obtained in early to mid-autumn. 6
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The plants should be located in full sun in slightly acidic, well-drained, fertile soil. The soil should be deeply cultivated and heavily amended with compost. Raised beds are ideal, but an individual plant can be grown in potting medium in a large container with drainage holes. Seeds for this crop can be sown directly in the garden. However, transplants are best. Start seeds six to eight weeks before installing seedlings in the garden. Use a sterile potting medium and start the seeds indoors in starter pots on horticultural heat mats under grow lights in late winter. In warm weather, the seeds can be started either indoors or outdoors in a protected location. Carefully harden off seedlings before transplanting them.
Be sure to water the seedlings well immediately after planting them in the ground. Protect spring-planted cauliflower plants from hard frosts. For autumn crops, time the seed starting and the installation of the plants so that there is enough time for them to mature before frost in autumn — this will vary from cultivar to cultivar. Read the package or plant tag descriptions for size and spacing specifics for all cultivars that are to be planted in the garden. Space the plants 18 to 24 inches apart, depending on the mature size of the cultivar. Do not crowd the plants. If growing cauliflower in rows, space the rows 24 to 36 inches apart on a staggered grid, again, depending on the mature size of the cultivar. The diameter of one mature cauliflower head can be six inches or more, although stress from heat or drought can cause the heads to stop growing when they are small. Cauliflower plants produce best quality heads when the soil is kept evenly moist. Use a soaker hose to supplement rainfall or consider using a drip irrigation system. Mulch the soil, keep the garden bed free of weeds, and exclude pests by covering the plants with a floating row cover. Cauliflower is a heavy feeder; fertilize the plants with an organic vegetable fertilizer.
Blanching Cauliflower
To ensure the best quality of the heads as they mature, the heads of many
Romanesco cauliflower provides a stunning display. Photo courtesy of www.Burpee.com.
EDIBLEharvt cultivars will need extra protection from the sun. The traditional method is to blanch the heads as they grow (starting when they are about two inches in diameter) by gently drawing up the leaves adjacent to them and securing the bundle loosely over the tops of the heads to provide shade. Large rubber bands or stretchy horticultural ties may be used. Re-cover the plants with the floating row cover. Some cultivars, especially some of the modern ones, have growth habits that protect the heads better and blanching may not be necessary; be sure to check each individual plant to make sure that the leaves are adequately covering the cauliflower head. If not, go ahead and follow the instructions for blanching.
Harvesting Cauliflower
The heads of many cultivars reach harvesting size in 60 to 80 days after transplanting, and may be ready as soon as 7 to 10 days after they are tied for blanching. They should be harvested at optimum maturity — while the curds are still firm — and should not be held long in the garden. Heads that are left too long on the plant will lose their smooth texture. All autumn-grown cauliflower heads should be harvested before the first frost. Use a sharp, heavy-duty kitchen knife or sharp, parrot-beaked shears to carefully cut the stem at least two inches below each head, and recut each stem to a shorter length in the kitchen. Remove any large outer leaves that were used to blanch the heads. Some gardeners try to get the plants to produce side shoots and smaller cauliflower heads after harvesting the large head off the main stem. This may work in some instances — and may also depend on the cultivar — but the plants should be completely removed from the garden if they start to fail and always by the end of the growing season.
Cauliflower Uses
Cauliflower can be used fresh from the garden or stored in the refrigerator crisper drawer for up to two weeks. When used fresh, it is excellent plain or in mixed fresh veggies for dipping. Cauliflower can also be lightly marinated or steamed, baked, pickled (wonderful in
Cauliflower ‘Purple of Sicily’ is produced on a large plant. Side shoots with small purple-colored heads may form after the main head is harvested. Photo courtesy of Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds.
the Italian specialty giardiniera), frozen, and fried (surprisingly good when prepared tempura style).
Availability and Recommended Cultivars
Seeds for many cultivars are widely available from seed companies by mail order and online. They are also generally offered during late winter and spring at garden centers. Many garden centers also offer transplants for the spring season; white-headed cultivars such as ‘Snowball’ are the most commonly available, but other colors such as the yellow-headed ‘Cheddar’ and the purple-headed ‘Violetta Italia’ are
becoming more popular. Other well-regarded cultivars include the white-headed ‘Amazing,’ ‘Snow Crown’ (AAS winner for 1975), and the heirloom ‘Giant of Naples.’ ‘Orange Sunset’ has a slightly deeper yelloworange color than ‘Cheddar.’ Additional purple-headed cultivars include ‘Graffiti,’ and ‘Purple of Sicily.’ Please note that purple-headed cultivars tend to lose color when cooked, usually turning green. The color holds up somewhat better when lightly steamed or marinated. Cauliflower also has cultivars with naturally light-green heads. ‘Vitaverde’ and ‘Macerata’ have the traditional head shape with rounded, tight curds. Romanesco cauliflower — sometimes labeled as a type of broccoli — has a uniquely pointed and spiraled head with pointed and spiraled curds. The effect is stunning and the head is beautiful. Named cultivars include ‘Italia,’ ‘Precoce,’ ‘Tipoff,’ and ‘Veronica.’ o Elizabeth Olson is a Maryland Certified Professional Horticulturist. She is also an avid home gardener who is fascinated by the stories behind the plants that she grows. She can be contacted through Washington Gardener magazine.
Y ou Can Make a Difference. . . by
Sharing Your Harvest
Plant an extra row in your garden and deliver the harvest to a local food bank or shelter. The need is great! With your help, PAR can continue to make a difference for America’s most vulnerable. Call our toll-free number (877.GWAA.PAR) or visit our website at www.gardenwriters.org/par for more information. OCTOBER 2015
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GARDENbasics
Fall is for Planting: Give Your Plants a Healthy Start by Kathy Jentz
Contrary to popular belief, the best time to get most plants in the ground is in the autumn, not the spring. This is great news for us procrastinators and all of those bargain-hunters since this is also when you can get the best bargains at local, independent garden centers. When perennials, shrubs, and trees drop their blooms and leaves, they are going into seasonal dormancy. Although they may seem to be hibernating on the outside, beneath the soil line, they are actually do a tremendous amount of work and growing. The root systems are getting established and readying themselves for the long, cold (and usually wet) winter ahead. The earlier in autumn you can plant, the better, but any time before the ground freezes is an opportunity to get them in the ground. Here are a few tips for giving each plant category a good start: • Spring-blooming bulbs: Plant in a well-draining spot in sun or part-sun (where the trees will eventually drop their leaves). Dig a hole two times the height of the bulbs. Drop the bulbs in pointy-end up. If in doubt of which end is up, place them on their sides and they will right themselves. • Perennials: Plant according to their light conditions and soil needs described on their labels. The hole should be only as deep as the plant is inside the pot and a bit wider. Fill in with soil, press firmly, and water them well, then mulch over the plant with leaf compost. • Shrubs and trees: Choose a location where the plant can reach its full, mature size and not have to be continually pruned. Plant according to the light conditions and soil needs described on their labels. The hole should be as deep as the plant sits inside the pot, but twice as wide. Amend the soil with leaf8
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compost before filling back in the hole with it. Tamp it down firmly and water well. Mulch around the shrub or tree with bark mulch or pine fines, but be sure the mulch is pulled back a bit from the plant’s trunk. Take advantage of the plant sales and the long holiday weekends of the fall
season to expand and enhance your garden. With a little care at the start, your plants should get off to a good, healthy start. Kathy Jentz is editor of Washington Gardener Magazine. An earlier version of this article appeared on The DC Ladies blog.
HORThaenings
Green Springs Garden’s Fall Garden Day
Book Reception for The Art of Gardening
Orchid Show and Sale
The National Capital Orchid Society (NCOS) hosted its 68th annual orchid show and plant sale at Behnke Nurseries in Beltsville, MD, from Saturday, October 10 until Monday, October 12. The show — “Present Orchids!” — featured one-hour educational lectures by NCOS members and visiting professional growers, tours of orchid exhibits conducted by NCOS members, and hundreds of prize-winning unique orchid plants in bloom. Vendors sold decorative pots, tropical plants, houseplants, seasonal items, gardening supplies, and more. An “Orchid Doctor” was available to answer questions about growing orchid plants. The NCOS will host an orchid auction in the spring.
New American Garden Exhibit Opens at National Building Museum
The National Building Museum in Washington, DC, debuted its new exhibit, “The New American Garden,” on October 15 to press and dignitaries. The exhibit is open to the public through May 1. The exhibit features contemporary and new photographs of projects designed by landscape architect company Oehme, van Sweden & Associates, which become famous for designing self-sustaining meadow-like gardens as well as high-profile designs for gardens such as the New York Botanical Garden. The exhibit also showcases sculptures and paintings by artists such as Henry Moore, who inspired many of the company’s designs. The entry fee is included in the museum’s $10 general admission fee.
On Monday, October 5, the staff of local public gardens and the press were invited to Wayne, PA, by Chanticleer and Timber Press to attend a book launch for “The Art of Gardening: Design Inspiration and Innovative Planting Techniques from Chanticleer.” The book, written by the Chanticleer gardeners and R. William Thomas, features essays by the staff about their jobs at the 35acre botanical garden in Pennsylvania, which is known for its innovative and modern designs. The gardeners’ pieces range from discussions about color theory to ideas about philosophy. The book also features beautiful photography of the garden by Rob Cardillo.
On Saturday, September 19, Green Springs Garden held its annual Fall Garden Day at Green Springs Garden Park in Alexandria, VA. The event hosted more than 1,200 people and showcased 28 booths. Plant vendors included Pine Knot Farms, the Four Seasons Garden Club, and the Virginia Native Plant Society. Craft vendors included Eva’s Fused Glass Designs and painter Marcia Toepfer. There was also a bake sale and silent auction of 180 items, as well an activity table for children. Andrew Acosta and Friends performed live music in the morning, and The Stewart Sisters performed in the afternoon.
Flower Arranging Class APLD’s International Design Conference in DC
The Association of Professional Landscape Designers’ annual International Design Conference took place from October 8-11 in Washington, DC. The conference, held at The Liaison Capitol Hill, received more than 150 attendees. The conference featured four full days of speakers, walking tours around DC, and private garden tours. Sessions included, “The Secrets of Designing for and Maximizing Small Outdoor Spaces,” “Color Secrets for Garden Design: Symbolism, Emotions, and Behaviors,” “The Power of Positioning: Thrill Clients & Make More Money = A Win-Win for All,” and “Sustainable Practices for Pollinator Health.” The conference concluded with a farewell reception and awards presentation.
On Saturday afternoon, September 26, Washington Gardener‘s editor Kathy Jentz led a basic flower-arranging workshop at the Kensington, MD, boutique, On The Purple Couch. Upcoming events at the boutique include an indoor gardening and houseplant talk with handson propagation on October 25 from 2—3:30pm; a harvest flower arrangement for the thanksgiving table on Sunday, November 22, from 1–2:30pm; and a happy and healthy holiday plants talk and demonstration on potting-up bulbs on Saturday, December 12, from 3–4:30pm. Register for classes at onthepurplecouch.com. o Compiled by Joelle Lang a senior at the University of Maryland, College Park. She is a multi-platform, journalism student in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism. This autumn, she is also an editorial intern for Washington Gardener Magazine. OCTOBER 2015
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KNOWitall
Ask the Expert by Debra Ricigliano
Tree Root Problems
We are struggling with a tree root issue. A large holly tree that was very near the foundation has recently been removed. The roots keep putting out shoots and we are concerned they could damage the foundation. First, could holly roots do that much damage? And, what is the best way to kill them? Do we have to use chemicals or have the stump ground out? It is not recommended to plant a large tree close to the foundation of a home, but tree roots that actually damage a foundation are a pretty rare occurrence. Since the top portion of the tree was removed, the roots will cease growing. However, it is possible that roots will keep producing suckers. If you cut them off as soon as they appear, the roots will eventually stop producing them. Certainly, if you have the stump ground out, there will be less root tissue to produce new shoots. Another option is to make fresh cuts into the stump and immediately paint the cut surface with an herbicide that contains glyphosate or triclopyr. Look for an herbicide concentrate labeled for brush control. This will retard the sucker growth. If any seedlings emerge, you can just pull those out or replant them in other areas of your yard.
Caterpillars Chomping on River Barch Foliage
I noticed these small caterpillars grouped together on the leaves of a River Birch. They were really eating the leaves. Should I be concerned about the health of the tree? Any treatment needed? If so, what would that be? Actually, what you noticed are not caterpillars, but sawfly larvae. They do look very similar, but sawflies have more than six pairs of prolegs on their abdomens, while caterpillars usually have no more than five. They like to feed in groups. The ones found on birch trees this time of year are called Dusky Birch Sawfly Larvae. There are two generations per year in our region, the first in April and May and the second in July through early fall. They will not seriously 10
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damage your tree at this time of year, so no control is necessary. Next year, if you see them, you can manually remove and destroy them. Heavier infestations can be controlled with horticultural oil.
Overwintering Geraniums
The geraniums I have planted in my garden were just beautiful this summer. How can I bring them inside for the winter and save them so I can replant them outdoors next spring? I will have window space to keep them in the light. Perhaps you should try overwintering your geraniums a couple of different ways, ensuring a greater chance of success. Pot some of them up and bring them indoors before the first frost. Place them in your sunny window away from heat vents. They prefer indoor temperatures in the 60 degree range. Water them only when the soil feels dry, as they do not like wet soil. The second method keeps the plants dormant by storing them without soil. Cut the plants back, removing most of the top growth, then dig them up. Gently shake the soil off the roots, then trim the roots back by about two-thirds and allow them to dry for about a day. Place the plants in paper (not plastic) bags, seal them up, and store in a cool, dry place until it is time to pot them up again in late winter. After potting them up, move them to a bright window and begin to water them, making sure the soil is not constantly moist. There is a third option: Geraniums are
easily propagated from stem cuttings. Cut a four-inch piece from a healthy non-flowering stem, trim it back just below a leaf, and remove all the leaves except the ones on the top two inches of the stem. Empty yogurt containers with drainage holes make excellent pots. Fill with moistened seed-starting media, and carefully insert the cuttings. Place in a sunny window and keep them moderately watered. They will be ready to be potted up or planted outside in late spring. o Debra Ricigliano is a Certified Professional Horticulturist. She has worked as a horticulture consultant for the University of Maryland Extension Home and Garden Information Center since 1997. Debra enjoys gardening at her home in Highland, MD. She is a graduate of the Institute of Applied Agriculture at UMCP and a talented, allaround horticulturist. To ask a gardening or pest question, go to http:// www.extension.umd.edu/hgic and click on “Ask Maryland’s Garden Experts.” You can also attach a digital photo. Got a gardening question you need answered? Send your questions to wgardenermag@aol.com and use the subject line “Q&A.” Please also include your first name, last initial, and the city and state you are writing from. Then look for your answered questions in upcoming issues.
GARDENnews
Quick Links to Recent Washington Gardener Blog Posts
• NCOS Orchid Show and Sale Video • Native Spotlight: Gentiana andrewsii • How to Plant Garlic • DIY: Create Your Own Garden Pathway See more Washington Gardener blog posts at: WashingtonGardener.Blogspot.com o
October-November Garden To-Do List
New Plant Spotlight River Nymph™ Lily of the Valley Shrub (Enchanted Forest Collection®) Pieris japonica ‘River Run’
An exquisite, prolific flowering hybrid of ‘Brower’s Beauty.’ Huge clusters of showy buds are displayed through late winter, opening to extraordinary white, bell-shaped flowers. It is evergreen, with glossy red new foliage. It has excellent resistance to lace bugs. Pieris is an outstanding foundation or accent shrub. ‘River Nymph’ is from noted breeder Sven Svenson. It is being marketed by Monrovia (www.monrovia.com) for spring 2016.
Plant Facts
Botanical Pronunciation: pee-AIR-iss juh-PON-ih-kuh USDA Hardiness Zone: 6 - 8 Light Needs: Partial sun Plant type: Shrub Deciduous/evergreen: Evergreen Growth habit: Round Average landscape size: Moderate growing, mounded form to 6 ft. tall and wide. Special features: Deer-resistant, Easy Care, Year-round Interest Foliage color: Green Blooms: Late winter to early spring Flower color: White Flower attributes: Showy Flowers Care Information: Provide well-drained soil, rich in organic matter. Follow a regular watering schedule during the first growing season to establish a deep, extensive root system. Keep roots cool with a thick layer of mulch. Feed with an acid fertilizer after bloom. Pruning time: spring after flowering. o
• Cover pond with netting to keep out fallen leaves and debris. • Harvest sweet potatoes. • Plant garlic. • Force the buds on Christmas Cactus by placing in a cool (55-60 degree) room for 13 hours of darkness. • Apply deer deterrent spray. • Prevent the spread of disease by cleaning up all infected plants and disposing of them in your trash — not your compost pile. • Plant cover crops in your vegetable gardens and annual beds (i.e., rye, clover, hairy vetch, winter peas). • Set up a cold frame, then plant lettuces, radishes, and carrots from seed. • If you have a water garden, clean out the annual plants and compost them. Cut back the hardy plants and group them into the deepest pond section. • Leave seedheads on Black-eyed Susans, Echinacea, Goldenrod, Sunflowers, and Thistles for the birds to enjoy over the winter. • Check for bagworms; pick off, bag, and dispose of them. • Dig up and store potatoes in a cool, dark spot. • Continue to divide and transplant perennials. • Rake leaves and gather in compost piles. • Pick pumpkins at a local pick-your-own farm or visit a local farmer’s market. • Cut garden herbs and hang to dry in a cool, dry place indoors. • Start feeding birds to get them in the habit for this winter. • Attend a local garden club meeting. • Mulch strawberry beds for winter. • Turn your compost pile weekly and don’t let it dry out. Work compost into your planting beds. • Plant evergreens for winter interest. • Weed. • Plant spring-flowering bulbs. • Sow wildflower seeds, such as California Poppies, for next spring. • Collect dried flowers and grasses for an indoor vase. • Clean, sharpen, and store your garden tools. • Lightly fertilize indoor plants. • Pot up Paper Whites and Amaryllis for holiday blooming. • Check that all vines are securely tied against winter’s cold winds. • Collect plant seeds for next year’s planting and for trading. • Pull out spent summer annuals. • Plant hardy mums and fall season annuals. • Water evergreens and new plantings to keep them hydrated this winter. • Fertilize your lawn and re-seed if needed. • Dig up bulbs from your Gladioli, cut off foliage, dry for a week, and then store for the winter. • Transplant trees and shrubs. • Gather seeds and carefully label them. Store in dry location. • Keep an eye out for the first frost date and insulate plants as needed. In Zone 6, it is expected between September 30-October 30; in Zone 7, it is predicted between October 15-November 15. OCTOBER 2015
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TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS DC-Area Gardening Calendar ~ Upcoming Events ~ October 16–November 15, 2015 • Monday, October 19, 8:00pm Serenity in the Garden: Simplicity, Sanctuary, & Delight in the Garden The Silver Spring Garden Club hosts Jan this talk on “Why do some gardens make us feel so relaxed and refreshed?” Professional landscape designer Jan Johnsen shares her passion for creating peaceful, enticing gardens and reveals the three features of a serene outdoor setting: simplicity, sanctuary, and delight. Drawing on her 40 years of experience in the design and horticulture professions, Jan illuminates the surprising role that layout, power of place, color, trees, and even rocks play in enhancing our wellbeing outdoors. Held at Montgomery College TP/Silver Spring Campus, Health Sciences Center Building, Room 122. This talk is FREE and open to the public. • Tuesday, October 20, 9am–1pm Collecting Native Seeds at Pope Farm Ages 18 & up. Pope Farm grows many of the trees, shrubs, and plants that you see at our county parks. Their Native Plant Program harvests native seeds each fall to propagate seedlings. Learn from expert staff and try seed-collecting techniques first-hand. After the tour, we’ll have a brown bag lunch together with time for Q&A. Fee includes transportation. Bring a brown bag lunch. Pre-register. $35. Brookside Gardens. ActiveMONTGOMERY.org. • October 22–24 The Smithsonian Food History Weekend at American History Smithsonian’s National Museum of American History brings together culinary leaders, researchers, practitioners, and scholars to inspire museum visitors to understand the history of food in America and the role they play, individually and collectively, in shaping the future of food. Culinary demonstrations, hands-on learning opportunities, tastings, talks, experiences with incomparable collections, and much more, Museum visitors and food enthusiasts learn about the past by tasting it at the Smithsonian every year. For more info: http://americanhistory.si.edu/events/ food-history-weekend. 12
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• Saturday, October 24, 11am–12n Regionally Adapted Plants Explore the tried-and-true plants that can take clay soil, deer, and/or periods of drought. Washington Gardener editor Kathy Jentz shares her favorite plants that excel in our local gardens, season by season. $18/person. Green Spring Gardens, 4603 Green Spring Road, Alexandria, VA 22312. Register online at www.fairfaxcounty.gov/parks/ greenspring using code 290 484 5901 or call 703-642-5173. • Sunday, October 25, 1–3pm Talk and Tour: Overwintering your Bonsai Overwintering your bonsai correctly keeps it alive and healthy during winter dormancy so it is ready for spring. This presentation and behind-the-scenes tour of the U.S. National Arboretum’s National Bonsai & Penjing Museum’s winter storage area with the museum curator prepares you for this important process. Fee: $12. Registration required. To register, see www.usna. usda.gov or call 202-245-4521. •Sunday, October 25, 2–3:30pm Indoor Gardening/House Plant Talk and Hands-on Progagation Learn how to care for your indoor plants and how to divide and propagate them to share with others. Classes led by Kathy Jentz, editor of Washington Gardener Magazine at On The Purple Couch, 4228 Howard Ave., Kensington, MD. See: www.onthepurplecouch.com. • Tuesday, October 27, 10–11:30am 2 for 1 Container Joan O’Rourke, instructor. Plant a unique container that will provide a colorful accent this fall, followed by a beautiful bulb display in spring. All supplies, planting, and care instructions will be included. Pre-register. $54. Ages 18 & up. Brookside Gardens. Register at ActiveMONTGOMERY.org. • Tuesday, October 27, 7–9pm Garden After Dark: Squash It You need a night out every once in a while, but what to do? Whether it’s with a friend, sibling, or sweetheart, let Brookside Gardens take care of the
details. Each fee covers the cost of two people. Pumpkins and beer — a perfect pairing? Enjoy an autumnal microbrew or two while watching some pumpkincarving demonstrations, then get your jack-o-lantern fix with heirloom squash and tools aplenty. We’ll polish off the evening with a moonlit tour of the garden. Fee includes all refreshments, two jack-o-lanterns, and tour. Pre-register. $54. Ages 21 & up. Brookside Gardens. See: ActiveMONTGOMERY.org. • Wednesday, October 28, 7:30pm USDA Geneticist Discusses New, Improved Fruit Cultivars Dr. Kim Lewers of the USDA will speak about development of improved fruit cultivars and a low-tunnel system for strawberries. Lewers is a research geneticist with the USDA’s Agricultural Research Service at Beltsville. Her research is in development of improved cultivars of the strawberry, blackberry, and raspberry, including the vision of year-round, locally grown, great-tasting, disease-resistant strawberries. The USDA-ARS strawberry-breeding program in Beltsville began in 1910 and is the foundation of the world’s strawberry industry. The program has been credited with developing strawberries that stayed firm and red after harvest so they could be shipped by rail to city markets. It also has saved the strawberry industry from several devastating diseases and is known around the world for disease-resistant genetics and ideal flavor. Hosted by the Beltsville Garden Club at the Duckworth School, Beltsville, MD. • Saturday, October 31, 12–3pm 2nd Annual WYG Garlic Planting Party held at the Washington Youth Garden If you are looking for a spooktacularly good time on Saturday, October 31, come participate in WYG’s annual Garlic Planting Party. At this family-friendly autumn extravaganza, you can expect delicious food, garden adventures and, of course, garlic planting! All are welcome and no registration is required. See: www.washingtonyouthgarden.org.
TOP AREA GARDENING EVENTS DC-Area Gardening Calendar ~ Upcoming Events ~ October 16–November 15, 2015 • Wednesday, November 4, 8am–4pm 2015 Trees Matter Symposium Learn from respected industry professionals about the most recent and innovative trends in urban forestry, horticulture, and landscaping. Headlining speaker this year is world-renowned horticulturist Dr. Michael Dirr, who will discuss new tree introductions and tree selection in the landscape. Other confirmed speakers include the vice president of Urban Forestry, LLC., Dr. Christopher Luley, who will talk about the ecology of decay fungi as it relates to tree risk assessment. and also speaking is Dr. Kelby Fite, arboricultural researcher with the Bartlett Research Laboratory. Fee: $70. For details, send an email to TreesMatter@MontgomeryParks.org. • Thursday, November 5, 6:30–8pm. Washington Gardener Magazine Garden Book Club Fall Meeting We will be discussing Teaching the Trees: Lessons from the Forest by Joan Maloof. The book club meeting will be held at the Takoma Park Neighborhood Library, Washington, DC, in the TPK Meeting Room. The library room allows food and drink and you may bring your dinner and/or snacks to share. The book club meetings are FREE and open to anyone who would like to attend. Please RSVP to “WG Book Club” at WashingtonGardener@rcn.com. We will be limiting attendance to 20. At this meeting, we will also decide on our 2016 garden club selections. (We meet roughly once each quarter/season.) Please bring your garden-related book suggestions. • Saturday, November 14, 9am–1pm Celebrating Veterans Through Service Join Friends of Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens and the National Park Service as they partner with the Student Conservation Association to celebrate Veterans through a day of volunteer service at the park. They need volunteers to help prepare the gardens for the winter season by transplanting perennials, clearing invasives, raking leaves, and preparing the greenhouses. They will provide lunch in the picnic grove. Sign up online at www.friendsofkenilworthgardens.org.
• Saturday, November 14, 10– 11:30am and 1–2:30pm Hands-on Workshop: Container Garden: A Succession of Spring Blooms from Bulbs As the days grow shorter, look forward to beautiful blooms by planting a container of more than five dozen bulbs! Layers of allium, tulip, daffodil, and crocus bulbs will provide maximum blooms over several weeks. Note: All materials are included. Payment is required in advance due to materials fees, and is non-refundable. This program is limited to 12 people, and must have a minimum of four participants to take place. In the event that the workshop is cancelled, participants may choose to participate in another session. Fee: $55, $45 member, Held at Hillwood, 4155 Linnean Avenue NW, Washington, DC. Go to register at: www. HillwoodMuseum.org.
• Sunday, December 6, 12–4pm Gardeners’ Holiday Open House Treat yourself to a day of holiday fun in the garden featuring the annual gingerbread house contest, trackless train rides ($3/person), holiday breads and ornaments for sale, and free refreshments. This festive day is for gardeners of all ages. Bring the children to a holiday puppet show by Bob Brown Puppets at 1pm and 3pm. ($3/person). Free admission. Green Spring Gardens, 4603 Green Spring Road, Alexandria, VA. For more information, call Green Spring Gardens at 703-642-5173.
Save These Future Dates:
To submit an event for this listing, please contact: Wgardenermag@aol. com — put “Event” in the subject line. Our next deadline is November 10 for the November 15 issue, featuring events taking place from November 16–December 15, 2015. o
• Tuesday, November 17, 7pm Maryland Native Plant Society’s Holiday Social and Members Share Night Share images or stories of your local or distant adventures experienced in the past year. Meeting at Wheaton Library, Wheaton, MD. Details at MDFlora.org. •Thursday, November 19, 10am Decorating for the Holidays Laura Dowling, former White House floral designer, is presenting a special program on home holiday decorations in Alexandria, VA. The program, “Holiday Cheer: Innovative Ideas and Tips for Decorating in the Garden Style,” is being hosted by the Garden Club of Waynewood. Admission is $10 for nonmembers. The event is at 8532 Fort Hunt Road (Fellowship Hall, Plymouth Haven Baptist Church). Doors will open at 9:30am. A chance to win one Laura Dowling’s designs at the end of the program is available to those that purchase raffle tickets. For pre-purchase of tickets, contact Dorothy Raduazo at dmraduazo@cox.net or 703-360-2316.
Still More Event Listings
See even more event listings on the Washington Gardener Yahoo discussion list. Join the list at http://groups.yahoo. com/group/WashingtonGardener/.
How to Submit Local Garden Events
Advanced Landscape Plant IPM PHC Short Course January 4–7, 2016 For registration information, contact: Avis Koeiman Department of Entomology 4291 Fieldhouse Dr. University of Maryland College Park, MD 20742 Tel: 301-405-3913 Email: akoeiman@umd.edu OCTOBER 2015
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BOOKreviews
Plants from Pits: Pots of Plants for the Whole Family to Enjoy By Holly Farrell Publisher: Mitchell Beazley List Price: $14.99 Reviewer: Joelle Lang This book is a fantastic introduction to planting pits for beginner planters. More-experienced planters may find that the tips and tricks included in the chapters of the book, such as poking out breathing holes in planters and how not to overwater a plant, are topics they have already mastered. This book is also a good resource for children interested in planting. It is rich with diagrams and illustrations, such as an easy-to-follow and informative graphic about the process of photosynthesis, perfect for young gardeners. The book begins by defining what pits are and how they grow. It discusses the basic materials needed to grow pits properly, which differs based on whether they are being planted inside or outdoors, and how to properly sow, feed, and water the plants. Chapter three, “The Pits,” is a great resource for someone who is deciding which plant to grow or seeking more information about a specific plant. This chapter talks about 38 different pits; it provides an introduction to the pit, one or two methods on how best to grow the pit, and advice on how to care for the plant during the pitting process and beyond. It explains what equipment one would need to plant the pits, what type of plant the pit grows into, and how a 14
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patient a planter must be before seeing growth. The final chapter of the book includes helpful tips for caring for the plant after it has grown, such as information on repotting and supporting tall plants. It also lists various threats to the plants, such as pests and mold damage, and provides tools for how to combat them. Every question I had about planting from pits was answered on the next page in an easy-to-understand diagram or float-chart. The book also includes nifty planting tips like wrapping pits in damp towels before planting them to assure that they won’t dry out and putting seeds into the refrigerator for a few weeks to help them shed their hard exteriors and germinate faster. Between beautiful photos, fun and helpful graphics, and a wide variety of pits to plant, this book is great for someone looking to learn how to plant from pits in their home or outdoors! Joelle Lang, a senior at the University of Maryland, College Park, is a multi-platform journalism student in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism. This autumn, she is also an editorial intern for Washington Gardener Magazine.
Trees and Shrubs: A Gardener’s Encyclopedia and Annuals and Perennials: A Gardener’s Encyclopedia By Geoff Bryant and Tony Rodd Publisher: Firefly Books List Price: $19.95 each Reviewer: Claire Jones I always measure any reference material for trees and shrubs against the gold standard of Dirr’s Hardy Trees and Shrubs: An Illustrated Encyclopedia, so, when I picked up these two encyclopedias, I really didn’t expect to be impressed. But I liked the handy, compact size of both of these volumes and could see a gardener picking them up to use at a local nursery before plunking down some hard-earned money on an unknown plant. A lot of information is packed into the comprehensive, easy-to-use tables that precede the alphabetical listings. There are hundreds of color photographs accompanying many, but not all, of the plants throughout the book. The
Australian-based authors have made use of easy-to-read symbols that remind me of Park Seed catalog’s pictographs, which pack a lot of information into a small space. The goal of including so much information into the small volumes — the claim is more than 1,500 plants for each book — does mean that the information is brief, keeping it from being a guide for the serious gardener or professional wanting more cultural details. Because of the compactness and plastic cover, I could see the volumes instead being used outdoors as a field guide. I know that I wouldn’t bring my Dirr’s guide outdoors because of the heft and expense of the volume. The Annuals and Perennials guide is similar in format to Trees and Shrubs, with comprehensive tables of plants preceding the listings of plants by the binomial. You could know either the common or binomial name by using the index, which includes both. After looking at the tables listing the plant characteristics, such as height and spread, flowering season, hardiness, deciduous or evergreen, sun requirements, and suitability to container culture, the gardener then turns to the alphabetical listings in the second part, which describe the species in more detail. Again, the drawbacks are identical to the Trees and Shrubs book. With the overwhelming variety of plants available to consumers in nurseries today, I can see where these books would be helpful to someone facing too
BOOKreviews many choices and not enough information. A successful garden depends so much on having the “right plant for the right place,” that any easy-to-use reference material has a place in just about any casual gardener’s library. Claire Jones is a garden and floral designer who has had a trowel in hand and dirty finger nails since she was four years old. You can read about her gardening successes and failures at her blog, thegardendiaries. wordpress.com.
Water Lilies and Bory Latour-Marliac, the Genius Behind Monet’s Water Lilies By Caroline Holmes Publisher: Garden Art Press List Price: $49.95 each Reviewer: Joyce E. Brobst Noted garden historian and writer, Caroline Holmes, in her work, Water Lilies and Bory Latour-Marliac, the Genius Behind Monet’s Water Lilies, clearly brings together the work of these two specialists – Monet, the artist, and Latour-Marliac, the horticulturist! Using the letters, order documents, and files in the extensive archives of the Bory Latour-Marliac Nursery, Caroline Holmes demonstrates her passion for garden history by documenting the laborious research of Joseph Bory Latour-Marliac in developing colorful, hardy hybrid waterlilies that would retain their genetics through time. She also, through her personal research in the writings of Monet at Giverny,
understood Monet’s quest for colorful waterlilies when he designed his intimate reflective pond garden. The combined efforts of these two men have influenced both fields. Monet’s 250 waterlily canvases, and almost every waterlily available on the international market before 1970 and today (nearly one-third of them), have their origins with the Latour-Marliac Nursery. The lives of Monet and Latour-Marliac were clearly “inextricably intertwined.” The book, however, is much more than this. It is truly a compendium of the movers and shakers of the gardening movement in the late 19th and early 20th century, with brief biographical sketches of the key personalities, garden designers, and publishers, and their communications and connections with each other. To mention a few of these people, think about Jekyll (garden designer), Robinson (writer – founded The Garden magazine), Tricker and Dreer (American growers), Ellis (naturalist), Hariot (artist), Richmond (editor of The Queen magazine), and Hudson (landscaper, exhibitor, and plant breeder). For those interested in the methods of propagating waterlilies, the book provides all the necessary steps and techniques. The heritage of the nursery at Le Temple-sur-Lot, from the time of the Latour-Marliac family (1875) to the present owner, Robert Sheldon, demonstrates the commitment and desire to provide quality plants (250 varieties available), and promote the love of waterlilies for all time. The book inspires you to visit and to create your own water pond for these special plants. Sheldon says, “People come to Latour-Marliac to see and be among these spectacular plants. They are the raison d’etre of all the businesses …” One can enjoy lunch and view the waterlilies during their peak bloom time from 11am to 3pm. For those who are artists, Holmes takes you into the life of Monet and the creation of his gardens at Giverny — especially the pond garden for his unique collection of waterlilies. Clearly, this was his dream garden and the inspiration for much of his work. Many questions about his life and his work are answered in the chapter devoted to
specifically to Monet.
This review would not be complete without mention of the exquisite photography by Peter Evans. His work expertly reveals his love of waterlilies, and completes the color palette needed to bring attention to specific species and cultivars in the historical detail provided by Caroline Holmes. In short, the book Water Lilies and Bory Latour-Marliac, the Genius Behind Monet’s Water Lilies, by Caroline Holmes, is terrific! It is a musthave book for those seeking garden history from the late 19th and early 20th century, an understanding of Monet’s waterlilies, and/or the methods of growing waterlilies provided by the experts at the Latour-Marliac Nursery. Joyce E. Brobst is a past president of The Herb Society of America. o
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To join the Washington Gardener Volunteer Reader Panel, please send an email with your name and address to: wgardenermag@aol.com. o We look forward to having you be a vital part of our local gardening publication. o
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OCTOBER 2015
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NEIGHBORnwork
Meet Dr. Richard T. Olsen New Director of the U.S. National Arboretum by Kathy Jentz and Daven Desai
program. I’ve been living in Greenbelt, MD, ever since. Q: How did you start in your field? A: I left American University after one year, once I realized I wasn’t that into international studies. My future fatherin-law suggested I try landscape architecture, since it combined art and the outdoors, which were my other skills/ passions. I transferred to N.C. State, took my first plant class, and everything clicked; I saw my childhood and future were connected by horticulture. From that point on, I refined my focus to ornamental horticulture and public gardens. Q: What is your favorite part of your career? A: I just turned 40, so my career so far can be viewed in 10-year increments. The first 10 years were essentially all school and training, and, since that has paid off, is certainly close to my heart. It certainly didn’t hurt that I went to two great schools for horticulture during their hey-days of horticulture — N.C. State University and the University of Georgia. I actually got paid to be in school, conduct research, and even travel! How great was that?! To be singularly focused on developing yourself and contributing to a greater good, while surrounded by like-minded, passionate individuals — all the while forming meaningful, personal, and professional relationships with professors, fellow students, and members of industry that have contributed to my success the last 10 years as a researcher with the Agricultural Research Service, and that still serve me well in the next 10 years as director of the U.S. National Arboretum.
Dr. Richard T. Olsen was named the new director of the U.S. National Arboretum (USNA) effective May 3 of this year. He served as acting director of the USNA in 2014 and most recently as acting assistant director of the USDA-ARS Beltsville Agricultural Research Center. His leadership in public gardens is recognized internationally and the USNA is fortunate to have him on staff.
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Q: What is your background? Are you native to the DC region? A: I was born in Wisconsin, but grew up in the Raleigh-area of North Carolina. I first came to Washington, DC, as a freshman at American University, to play soccer and study international relations. I then came back in 2006 after finishing my doctoral studies at North Carolina State University to take over the U.S. National Arboretum urban tree breeding
Q: What is a typical day like for you? A: It starts with a morning coffee while overlooking the home garden, looking for holes and excuses to go back to a garden center to buy the perfect plant. It continues with admiring the plant combinations and seasonal changes at the National Arboretum. These important reminders root my perspective and thoughts as I coordinate, manage, and administrate behind the scenes, so that our staff do what they do best — curate collections, inspire gardeners, and discover solutions that advance and
NEIGHBORnwork improve our American landscapes. Q: What mistakes and triumphs have you encountered in gardening in our region? A: It runs the gamut, from still misinterpreting how much sun, or rather how little direct sunlight, I get in the front yard, to how to actually grow a decent turnip in the community garden plot. But, in general, my garden is an ongoing, living experiment, not unlike the National Arboretum’s living collections. I am constantly testing and pushing the envelope with regards to cultivating plants, whether they are truly new plants or simply old ones rediscovered, as well as new combinations of plants and planting conditions. So, I make a lot of mistakes, that is, if dead plants are an indication of failure. Triumphs are measured in visits from strangers passing by who ask about a certain plant as I’m gardening, or when I’m in the kitchen looking out, those folks who slow down and check out what’s going on in the garden. Their day is a little bit better because of my garden, and that makes my day better. Q: What advice would you give to beginners/amateurs home gardeners in the greater DC area? A: Just do it. Get a spade and a digging fork, turn over that spot you’ve been considering for a garden, and get dirt under your nails. One shovel at a time, one plant at a time. I’ve seen too many folks with grand ambitions for their home landscapes generated in the spring followed by wilting in the summer when days are long, hot, and dry, and their grand plans become overwhelming. Start small, have some success, and expand from there. Q: What plants are your favorite to use in the greater DC area? A: No matter where I am, I find myself relying on the genus Iris. In part, nostalgia, but mostly practical. Seems to be an iris for every need. I have drifts of Iris tectorum ‘Alba’ in my back garden, which is extremely tolerant of dry shade and when in bloom really lights up the yard. I also have the straight species, a variegated form, and a new collection from China. I actually saw the species on forested slopes in Nikko, Japan, so
that’s a hort-highlight. Also I love Iris foetidissima, which I grow for its evergreen foliage and showy orange seeds in the winter garden. Others include the requisite bearded irises plus Iris cristata, I. japonica, I. virginica, Iris pumila, and a cool-sterile hybrid of I. pseudacorus with yellow foliage. Q: Conversely, what plants would you advise others to avoid growing in our area? A: I see Miscanthus moving around and, while its invasiveness is tied to flowering time, fecundity, and provenance of the various cultivars, the species worries me. There are new highly infertile triploid forms coming out of N.C. State that will be on the market soon, so I would encourage folks to look at those. Plus, with so many great native grasses to grow, we are seeing more options available beyond the old standby Miscanthus. Q: What do you do when it is not the growing season? A: While the calendar may indicate that the growing season is over, the garden season never ends. DC is blessed with a mild — and getting milder — weather, so, in theory, one can be in the garden
most of the year. We certainly are at the U.S. National Arboretum! And with planning, you can have something in bloom essentially every day of the year. But, I do look forward to the seed catalogs after the winter solstice, where long, cold nights justify sitting down and pondering new plant combinations for the ensuing garden cycle. Q: Where can people find you? A: In an office above the National Bonsai & Penjing Museum at the U.S. National Arboretum. However, on the weekends, soccer fields in Maryland, watching my two boys play. Q: Anything else you want to add or think would be of interest to our magazine readers? A: Looks like there is a third species of Fothergilla in the United States, recently discovered in scattered populations across the Southeast. Plant discoveries happen, even in our own backyards. o Kathy Jentz is the editor of Washington Gardener Magazine. Daven Desai is a senior at the University of Maryland, College Park. He is a broadcast journalism student in the Philip Merrill College of Journalism. This summer, he was also an editorial intern for Washington Gardener Magazine.
Visit DCGardens.com for:
Photos of 16 Major Public Gardens by Month and Where to Buy Plants Where to Connect Local Garden Media Where to Volunteer Youth Gardens Where to Find Designers Tours and Events Where to Learn to Garden OCTOBER 2015
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TIPStricks
Common Tree Diseases
By Joelle Lang Before taking measures to remedy diseased trees, one must understand the problem affecting the plants. Treecaretips.org shares virulent diseases that kill trees. • Phytophthora root and crown rot appear as crown die-back, discolored or loss of foliage, and a generally unhealthy look. Trees can suffer phytophthora for years before death, if the decline starts to spread from the root system. If the crown or basal stem is attacked, however, the tree may be killed within a single season. Young trees are especially vulnerable to phytophthora, due to their underdeveloped root systems and crowns. Good soil drainage is recommended to guard against phytophthora, since the disease thrives in warm, moist soil. • Anthracnose refers to a symptom rather than a specific fungus. Many fungi produced these symptoms on specific host plants. The most common symptom of this group of diseases is irregular dead areas or blotches on the leaves. Sometimes whole leaves are engulfed. Cankers may girdle twigs and small branches, causing them to die. The resulting re-growth from lateral buds can give the tree a gnarled or crooked appearance. Symptoms on most trees are confined to the leaves; the disease is considered more lethal if the fungi invade the twigs and branches, and can prove fatal. • Sooty mold fungus is a general term for several species of fungi or molds that use the honeydew secreted by sucking insects as food to develop and grow. It generally does not cause damage to the plant, but can be a considerable nuisance to homeowners since it affects anything beneath the trees, including hardscape, cars, and structures. • Fire blight is a common bacterial infection that results in twig dieback. The classic symptom of a shepherd’s crook with a burned appearance to the leaves and twig is a sure sign of this destructive disease. The disease can destroy limbs and even entire shrubs or trees. Find out more about tree care and diseases at Treecaretips.org. o 18
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Research on Bulb and Perennial Combinations
By Joelle Lang Cornell professor Bill Miller and his Cornell Flower Bulb Research Program have recently launched a web site devoted to their research on determining the best spring-blooming bulb and perennial combinations. The Cornell researchers studied various bulb and perennial combos over four seasons. Their aim is to “motivate and entice gardeners and industry professionals to try, experiment with, and promote the use of flower bulbs with perennials in order to enhance the landscape.” The site lists more than 30 combinations, including tulip combos, narcissus combos, and crocus combos. It also features a list of what the research program deemed the “Best 15 Combos.” For those accustomed to testing combos via seasonal trial and error plantings, the project evaluations offer insightful short-cuts for understanding how different plants perform together in spring and early summer. For example, pairing the Narcissus ‘Salome’ with Phlox paniculata ‘Bill Baker’ illustrates the use of bulbs with perennials to extend the bloom season. After the Narcissus is finished, the Phlox explodes with blooms, masking the bulb foliage. This combo would work with many narcissus and probably also with early tulips. With the Tulip ‘Ballade’ and Geranium ‘Mayflower,’ the height of the Tulip at bloom and the Geranium makes the tulip blooms look as if they are floating in a sea of green. The foliage and purple flowers of the Geranium later mask the old tulip leaves. With the Anemone blanda ‘White Splendor’ and Rheum palmatum ‘Atrosanguineum,’ the fine, white flowers of the Anemone contrast well with the dark, coarse foliage of the Rheum. The Anemone blooms before the leaves of the Rheum get too large, and then the Rheum grows to cover the old foliage of the Anemone. Rheum would be a good companion for many bulbs because of its large leaves. Check out more Bulb and Perennial Combinations at http://www.hort.cornell.edu/combos/index.html. o
Companion Herbs
By Joelle Lang According to Stephen and Cindy Scott at UnderwoodGarden.com, when many gardeners think about companion planting, they imagine vegetables with an occasional marigold or nasturtium thrown in for good measure. Herbs are among the original beneficial companions because their volatile oils and organic compounds are natural repellents to troublesome insects and pests. Not only are herbs repellent to the undesirables, but they have many positive contributions to the garden as well. Some enrich the soil, others encourage beneficial insects and microbial communities to establish themselves, and most create positive results for the growth of other vegetables and plants they are around. Here is a sampling of some wellknown herbs that have great benefits in your garden. They shouldn’t be planted all by themselves, but in amongst those vegetables that they can best benefit. This is the beginning of intensive gardening and permaculture. • Basil — Good companion for tomatoes, improves growth and flavor, repels flies and mosquitoes. Due to its round size, grow parallel to tomatoes and not among them. • Sweet Marjoram — A general beneficial herb, improves growth and flavor for all other garden vegetables. Tiny white flowers attract pollinators. A culinary substitute for oregano, it has a milder flavor. • English Pennyroyal — A butterfly and pollinator attractant, increases production in garden by increasing pollinators. It is beneficial for broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and cabbage against cabbage maggots. Repels ants at entrances and a good mosquito repellent when rubbed on skin or clothing. Fresh and dried sprigs are a good flea repellent. • Nasturtium — This perennial garden favorite is beneficial with radishes, cabbage, and the cucurbit family — all of the squash and pumpkin family — against aphids, squash bugs, and striped pumpkin beetles. Also improves the growth and flavor of all of the above foods. Most of these can be direct-sown in your garden next spring. o
GOINGnative
Pure Gold
Uvularia grandiflora
by Barry Glick
The emergence of the long-lasting flowers of Uvularia grandiflora is something I really anticipate every spring. And every spring, my robust stand of “Large Flowered Bellwort” or “Merrybells” slowly opens their large, pendulous, bright golden yellow flowers that resemble inverted, flowing candle flames. Average plant height is about 18–24" and the medium-green foliage of the plant provides a perfect foil for the unusually shaped flowers. The name Uvularia comes from a part of the human anatomy, the uvula, which is that funny little appendage hanging down at the back of your throat. Can you see the resemblance? Isn’t botanical nomenclature easy? I find it amusing that the majority of people queried confuse the word uvula with the word vulva, another part of the human anatomy entirely, *ahem*. Uvularia grandiflora is a very longlived, hardy perennial and is easily
grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in dappled sun to full shade. In nature, it occurs in moist, humusy soil in part-shade and is native to more than half of the USA and Canada. It boasts hardiness from USDA Zones 4–10, with full shade a must for plantings in the deep south. It’s an excellent companion plant for Ferns, Hellebores, Arisaemas, Trilliums... and the list goes on and on. Uvularia grandiflora has gained the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. I wish that I could say that they are 100% deer-proof, but on occasion, a curious young fawn may take a nibble. Different deer populations have different tastes and may completely ignore them. Bumblebees, Mason bees, Halictid bees, and Andrenid bees feed from the nectar and collect pollen from the flowers. In the fall, the fruity seedpods are
attractive to ants and may be dispersed by them in your woodland garden. The root system is rhizomatous, from which vegetative offsets are often produced. This plant occasionally forms colonies. I’m also growing two other native Uvularia species, Uvularia sessilifolia and Uvularia perfoliata. These species are smaller in stature, but equally as showy, and are perfect for a shady rock garden, along a path, or in the front of a shade border. o Barry Glick, a transplanted Philadelphian, has been residing in Greenbrier County, WV, since 1972. His mountaintop garden and nursery is a mecca for gardeners from virtually every country in the world. Barry writes and lectures extensively about native plants and Hellebores, his two main specialties, and welcomes visitors with advance notice. He can be reached at barry@sunfarm.com, www.sunfarm.com, or 304.497.2208.
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PRODUCTreview
Dramm Good Products!
by Louise Clarke
Having recently returned from the Garden Writers Association’s annual symposium, I’ve had the good fortune to receive samples of Dramm Corporation’s One Touch™ Rain Wand™ and their new-for-2016 brass hose swivel for evaluation in my home garden. My fellow horticulture professionals know Wisconsin-based Dramm for the quality watering tools and accessories they’ve been producing here in the United States for 75 years. The One Touch™ Rain Wand™ turns the chore of watering into a pleasure. And who can’t use some unbridled hedonism in the garden after this summer’s dry spells? Available in 16" and 30" lengths, and a rainbow of colors, the well-balanced, heavy-duty aluminum shaft cleverly incorporates a water control valve into its handle that is easily operated with your thumb, leaving your other hand free to hold the libation of your choice. Water flow can be varied from a trickle to a torrent, always delivering a gentle shower, and is adjustable on the fly as you move through the garden; you’ll save water using this magic wand. At its 45-degree elbow, the shaft is covered with a rubberized sleeve that 20
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absorbs impacts in an area that might deform due to accidental drops, or by brandishing your wand as a baton to rout critters from garden beds. After uncounted drops onto hard surfaces, my breaker is still intact; not so my wine glass. Should you be clever enough to crack the breaker, you’ll find replacements available at independent garden centers and online sources. As a professional, I’ve used the 30" wands for their longer reach, advantageous for watering in nurseries and greenhouses, and those long wands are also handy for home gardeners who have deep beds or hanging planters to water. As exciting as the One Touch™ is, I was positively giddy when I tried it in conjunction with Dramm’s new brass hose swivel. Dragging a hose through my suburban garden requires navigating narrow brick walkways and rightangle corners, and my snarky hose likes to take the shortest route. Having been coiled in a hose pot, it has a memory like an elephant, which requires me to make several runs back and forth to unkink it and keep it from dragging through those pricey new Epimediums I recently planted.
With the addition of the two-piece hose swivel, my hose docilely follows me sheep-like, uncoiling as I move farther from the faucet. While under pressure, the swivel allows the hose to rotate independently from the wand, reducing the Chubby Checker effect (let’s not do the twist!). This indispensable accessory is machined from solid brass for long life and dependable service. Where has this been all my gardening life? I am definitely ordering these for my professional use. As with all quality tools, a modicum of care will ensure their longevity; at season’s end, disconnect your outdoor water supply, drain hoses, and store your wand and accessories in a dry, frost-free environment. The One Touch™ Rain Wand™ and brass hose swivel combination is such a pleasure to use that you might convince non-gardening family members to assist you. Otherwise, they’ll be seeing less of you as you happily hydrate your Eden. This combination might even entice you to spend a little more time in your garden — and that wouldn’t be such a bad thing, would it? o Louise Clarke is a degreed horticulturist employed by The Morris Arboretum in Philadelphia, PA, where she tends more than 1,200 woody plants and two green roofs, as well as leading workshops, writing, and lecturing on horticultural topics. As a zone-denial gardener, after hours, she tends Halcyon, her lush home garden, a mixture of tender tropicals, bulbs, perennials, unusual annuals, and vines. She rarely has time to admire the garden while seated in her tiki hut, made from repurposed materials.
Dramm’s new brass hose swivel makes dealing with curling hoses a snap.
INSECTindex I have long been passionate about native plants, native shrubs in particular and, most of all, rhododendron species. These shrubs are more commonly known as deciduous azaleas. I’m not necessarily referring to the common hybrids (which I also love!), but the native species. My native rhododendron season begins with the Pinxterbloom (R. periclymenoides). Its graceful pink flowers dominate the local woods in late April and the early emerging Swallowtail butterflies find them just as lovely as I do. My season continues with R. viscosum and its fragrant white blossoms in mid-May. The warm-colored (yellow, orange, and red shades) native azaleas continue the show through June and July with R. calendulaceum and R. cumberlandense, and finishes with R. prunifolium in August. Rhododendron arborescens and its hybrids add a white, sweetsmelling counterpoint by blooming from mid-June to mid-August. I have many hybrids of these species as well. With this concentration of the same kinds of plants in my yard, I have to be vigilant in scouting for their particular pests. The most worrisome for me is the Rhododendron Borer (Synanthedon rhododendri). The Rhododendron Borer is a native pest that can be a problem for evergreen rhododendrons, deciduous azaleas, and Mountain Laurel. S. rhododenri is a type of clearwing borer. Clearwing borers are members of the order Lepidoptera (moths and butterflies) and the family Sesiidae (clearwing moths), and include some other nasty pests such as peachtree borer and dogwood borer. These dayflying insects look like wasps, so they are difficult to identify as moths to the casual observer. The Rhododendron Borer is the smallest of the group, being only about ½" long. Their bodies are a metallic blueblack with three yellow bands on the abdomen and coppery scales on the clear wings. The abdomen sports either
Rhododendron Borer
by Carol Allen a fan (male) or tufted (female) end. The moths emerge fully mature in mid-May and females usually mate on the first day. The adults only live for a couple of days. Once inseminated, the female seeks a disturbed area on a rhododendron or azalea stem. Usual sites include old borer-damaged areas, old pruning scars, or where the plant was recently dead-headed. After hatching, the borer chews an entrance into the heartwood of a stem where it will tunnel and feed until the onset of cold weather. In December, the not-quitemature larva ceases feeding and spins a cocoon deep inside the rhododendron branch or trunk. Sometime in March, it will resume feeding. In late April to early May, the larva pupates, then emerges as an adult later in May. The Rhododendron Borer is almost fully protected during its life-cycle by being enclosed in the plant’s stem. This enclosed environment makes bio-rational controls difficult. Nurserymen, landscapers, and rhododendron hobbyists can obtain pheromone traps to attract the male moths as they emerge. These traps emit a chemical scent similar enough to the scent of a female moth that the males are fooled and caught. Since the adults have only a few days to mate and lay eggs, these traps pin-point
moth emergence, so pesticide sprays (usually permethrin) can be applied to the stems and trunks of vulnerable plants. A non-chemical control, and the one I use, is to closely monitor the new shoots during the summer growing season. As the borer feeds, it causes the young leaves to wilt and the stem to droop or “flag.” Cut the shoot off below the wilt point and trace the borer’s tunnel down until you see the larvae and destroy them. By reputation, clearwing borers prey on stressed plants. Site your rhododendron species and hybrids either where they can get direct morning sun with afternoon shade, or in an area of high dappled shade. They require acid soil with a high humus content. They do not do well in compacted, heavy soils and do not tolerate water logged roots. Water during times of drought and keep the root zone cool, moist, and weed-free with 2–3" of an organic mulch. Pine shred or pine bark mulch will do dual duty by maintaining the acidity of the soil. o Carol Allen describes herself as a committable plant-a-holic. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the horticulture industry, with a special interest in plant pests and diseases, and is a Licensed Pesticide Applicator in the states of Maryland. She can be contacted at carolallen@erols.com. Please use pesticides safely! Read and heed all label directions! Photos by Jim Baker, North Carolina State University, Bugwood.org. OCTOBER 2015
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JOIN US FOR THE FOURTH ANNUAL
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FEATURED SPEAKERS & TOPICS:
“Trees and the Built Environment” Wednesday, November 4, 7:30am-4pm Silver Spring Civic Center, Great Hall 1 Veterans Place, Silver Spring, MD 20910 The fourth annual Trees Matter Symposium focuses on the health and welfare of trees in our increasingly developed landscapes. Learn from some of the country’s leading experts about innovative efforts to plant, protect and preserve trees in urban and suburban settings. Trees provide many benefits: they cleanse and cool our air, stabilize our soils, provide wildlife habitat and beautify our urban and suburban areas. We encourage all arborists, landscape industry and environmental/green industry professionals, engineers, designers, housing developers and interested citizens to take advantage of this opportunity to learn new techniques and concepts on what can be done to ensure the survival of trees in our built environment. Approved for continuing education credits for members of the American Society of Landscape Architects (ASLA), Certified Professional Horticulturist (CPH), International Society of Arboriculture (ISA) and Society of American Foresters (SAF). Early bird pricing ($55) available until October 7th. Regular price for admission is $70. Support provided by:
1. DR. MICHAEL DIRR Horticulturist, professor of horticulture at the Univeristy of Georgia, and author of many accliamed books including the Manual of Woody Landscape Plants.
Part 1: “In Praise of Noble Trees” Part 2: “The Origin/Development of Tree Cultivars: Reflections on the Best of the Old and A View to the New”
2. DR. KELBY FITE Arboriculture researcher with Bartlett Research Laboratories
“The Landscape Below Ground” Dr. Fite will discuss what is known about root and soil interactions, engineered soil effects on tree performance, and new treatments such as biochar.
3. DR. CHRIS LULEY Pathologist, vice president of Urban Forestry LLC., and author of many acclaimed books including Wood Decay Fungi.
“Ecology of Decay Fungi and Implications in Decay Assessment” Dr. Luley will discuss the interaction between fungi and trees, and its implications in risk and decay assessment.
4. HOLLY SHIMIZU Horticulturist, former executive director of the U.S. Botanic Garden and correspondent for PBS’ The Victory Garden.
“King of the Forest” Shimizu will discuss the profound role of trees in our lives - what they accomplish as food factories, as cleaners of the air and water, as shade makers, and as stabilizers.
For more information, visit MontgomeryParks.org/Trees Register at ActiveMontgomery.org for course #8955, or call the registrar at 301-962-1451. 22
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ADVERTISINGindex
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BACK ISSUE SALE!
YOU CAN REQUEST A SINGLE COPY OF PRINT BACK ISSUES FOR $6 EACH OR ANY 6 BACK ISSUES FOR $24, OR ALL 40+ PRINT BACK ISSUES FOR JUST $100. PRICE INCLUDES POSTAGE AND HANDLING. PLEASE SPECIFY THE ISSUE DATE(S). ORDER MUST BE PREPAID BY CHECK OR MONEY ORDER. SEND ORDERS TO: WASHINGTON GARDENER, 826 PHILADELPHIA AVE., SILVER SPRING, MD 20910
MARCH/APRIL 2005 • Landscape DIY vs. Pro • Prevent Gardener’s Back • Ladew Topiary Gardens • Cherry Trees
MAY/JUNE 2007 • Roses: Easy Care Tips • Native Roses & Heirloom Roses • Edible Flowers • How to Plant a Bare-root Rose
MAY/JUNE 2005 • Stunning Plant Combinations • Turning Clay into Rich Soil • Wild Garlic • Strawberries
JULY/AUGUST 2007 • Groundcovers: Alternatives to Turfgrass • How to Pinch, Prune, & Dead-head • William Paca House & Gardens • Hardy Geraniums
JULY/AUGUST 2005 • Water Gardens • Poison Ivy • Disguising a Sloping Yard • Kenilworth Aquatic Gardens
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2007 • Succulents: Hardy to our Region • Drought-Tolerant Natives • Southern Vegetables • Seed Saving Savvy Tips
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2005 • Container Gardens • Clematis Vines • Sponge Gardening/Rain Gardens • 5 Insect Enemies of Gardeners
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2007 • Gardening with Children • Indoor Bulb-Forcing Basics • National Museum of the American Indian • Versatile Viburnums
NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2005 • Backyard Bird Habitats • Hellebores • Building a Coldframe • Bulb Planting Basics
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2008 • Dealing with Deer • Our Favorite Garden Tools • Delightful Daffodils
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2006 • Garden Decor Principles • Primroses • Tasty Heirloom Veggies • U.S. Botanic Garden MARCH/APRIL 2006 • Top 10 Small Trees and Large Shrubs • Azaleas • Figs, Berries, & Persimmons • Basic Pruning Principles MAY/JUNE 2006 • Using Native Plants in Your Landscape • Crabgrass • Peppers • Secret Sources for Free Plants JULY/AUGUST 2006 • Hydrangeas • Theme Gardens • Agave • Find Garden Space by Growing Up SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2006 • Shade Gardening • Hosta Care Guide • Fig-growing Tips and Recipes NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2006 • Horticultural Careers • Juniper Care Guide • Winter Squash Growing Tips and Recipes • Layer/Lasagna Gardening
MARCH/APRIL 2008 • Patio, Balcony, Rooftop Container Gardens • Our Favorite Garden Tools • Coral Bells (Heucheras) MAY/JUNE 2008 — ALMOST SOLD OUT! • Growing Great Tomatoes • Glamorous Gladiolus • Seed-Starting Basics • Flavorful Fruiting Natives JULY/AUGUST 2008 • Landscaping with Ornamental Grasses • Edible Grasses to Graze On • Slug and Snail Control • Sage Advice: Sun-Loving Salvias SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2008 • Autumn Edibles — What to Plant Now • Beguiling Barrenworts (Epimediums) • Best Time to Plant Spring-blooming Bulbs • 14 Dry Shade Plants Too Good to Overlook NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2008 • Outdoor Lighting Essentials • How to Prune Fruiting Trees, Shrubs, Vines • 5 Top Tips for Overwintering Tender Bulbs • Harry Lauder’s Walking Stick JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2009 • Compost Happens: Nature’s Free Fertilizer • Managing Stormwater with a Rain Garden • Visiting Virginia’s State Arboretum • Grow Winter Hazel for Winter Color
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2007 • Indoor Gardening • Daphne Care Guide • Asparagus Growing Tips and Recipes • Houseplant Propagation
MARCH/APRIL 2009 UT! • 40+ Free and Low-cost Local D O Garden Tips SOL • Spring Edibles Planting UT! Guide O LD for a Fresh Start • Testing Your SOSoil UT! • Redbud LD O Tree Selection and Care O S • Best Viewing Spots for Virginia Bluebells
MARCH/APRIL 2007 • Stormwater Management • Dogwood Selection & Care Guide • Early Spring Vegetable Growing Tips • Franciscan Monastery Bulb Gardens
MAY/JUNE 2009 • Top Easy Summer Annuals for DC Heat • Salad Table Project • Grow and Enjoy Eggplant • How to Chuck a Woodchuck
SUMMER 2009 • Grow Grapes in the Mid-Atlantic • Passionflowers • Mulching Basics • Growing Hops FALL 2009 • Apples • How to Save Tomato Seeds • Persimmons WINTER 2009 • Battling Garden Thugs • How to Start Seeds Indoors • Red Twig Dogwoods • Unusual Edibles to Grow in Our Region SPRING 2010 • Community Gardens • Building a Raised Bed • Dwarf Iris • Broccoli SUMMER 2010 • Fragrance Gardens • Watering Without Waste • Lavender • Potatoes FALL 2010 • Vines and Climbers • Battling Stink Bugs • Russian Sage • Garlic WINTER 2010 • Paths and Walkways • Edgeworthia • Kohlrabi SPRING 2011 • Cutting-Edge Gardens • Final Frost Dates and When to Plant • Bleeding Hearts • Onions SUMMER 2011 • Ornamental Edibles • Urban Foraging • Amsonia/Arkansas Blue Star • Growing Corn in the Mid-Atlantic FALL 2011 • Herb Gardens • Toad Lilies • Sweet Potatoes • Cool Weather Cover Crops WINTER 2011/EARLY SPRING 2012 • Green Roofs and Walls • Heaths and Heathers • Radishes SPRING 2012 • Pollinator Gardens • Brunnera: Perennial of the Year • Growing Yacon SUMMER 2012 • Tropical Gardens • Captivating Canna • Icebox Watermelons SPRING 2013 • Great Garden Soil • All About Asters • Squash Vine Borer SUMMER/FALL 2013 • Miniature/Faerie Gardens • Beguiling Abelias • Growing Great Carrots WINTER/EARLY SPRING 2014 • Ferns for the Mid-Atlantic • Chanticleer Gardens • Beet Growing Basics
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Jentz Prints
Antique Botanical Prints for the decorator, collector, connoisseur, and art lover. Jentz Prints can be purchased on most Saturdays at the Eastern Market, and most Sundays at the Georgetown Flea Market.
Antique prints are affordable — most in the $10-$30 range — and they are the perfect gift idea for that plant lover in your life. And don’t forget to buy a few for yourself! For more information, to make a private appointment, or to get a detailed show schedule, please contact Jentz Prints by email at UllrichJ@aol.com. You can also find Jentz Prints on eBay.com under the seller ID: printyman. 24
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