MY WASHINGTON Eric Ziebold, chef, Kinship and Métier restaurants BY KEVIN CHAFFEE
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WHAT IS YOUR PHILOSOPHY WITH REGARD TO THE ART OF CUISINE? First and foremost, you have to get to a point of mastering your craft, and then you can start to build an emotional reaction to the food and experience your guests will enjoy. That is when it becomes the art of dining. WHAT MADE YOU CHOOSE WASHINGTON INSTEAD OF NEW YORK OR ELSEWHERE? The dynamic of Washington being a small city that carries an enormous weight on various levels (politics, world decisions, art) played a role in my decision to move here. I also enjoy the diversity — its character, architecture, charm and history.
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WHAT MAKES YOUR TWO NEW RESTAURANTS, KINSHIP AND MÉTIER, UNIQUE? Both restaurants at their core offer a unique and focused approach to an overall experience that we want people to share: Kinship is all about comfort, warmth and camaraderie. Métier is about celebration; it’s hopefully a calming pursuit of excellence that inspires people to enjoy the beauty of life. IF YOU HAD TO NAME ONE SPECIALTY DISH, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Kinship’s Maine Lobster French Toast.
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WHAT WOULD YOU ORDER FOR YOUR LAST MEAL? Potato Mousseline with Meyer Lemon Butter and Sea Urchin; Lobster French Toast; Roasted Squab with Truffles and Foie Gras; and Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough Soufflé.
MY TOP SPOTS RdV Vineyards in Delaplane, Va. (1) This is a gorgeous Bordeaux-style winery from Rutger de Vink. His Rendezvous wine is delicious. I use land there where I grow vegetables and herbs for the spring and summer menus. Darryl Carter’s Studio (1320 9th St. NW) Carter is an award-winning interior designer who believes that the most outstanding spaces “tell the story of the people who live there.” He helped bring our restaurant vision to life, creating a space that feels effortless, current and lasting all at once. Ani Kasten Ceramic Studio in the Gateway Arts District, Mt. Ranier Md. Ani is an artist specializing in ceramic sculptures and vessels. She created a customized plate for Métier which is spectacular. Bread Furst Bakery (2) (4434 Connecticut Ave. NW) This is one of Washington’s premier bakeries and Mark Furstenburg makes the city’s best baguettes and ancient grain bread. My wife Celia and I enjoy a lovely stroll through Georgetown near the C & O Canal (3), followed by an aperitif and the shellfish platter at Fiola Mare (3100 K St. NW). Getting a seat on the patio overlooking the Potomac River is relaxing and offers a different perspective of D.C. Frank Milwee’s Antiques (2912 M St. NW) in Georgetown is where I originally found inspiration for the Parker House rolls I first served in CityZen. His leather cigar boxes inspired the wooden boxes used to serve the bite-sized rolls. Additionally, Celia and I have found beautiful and unusual silver pieces that we use in our home when entertaining. Weschler’s Auction House (909 E St. NW) The District’s oldest auction house is great for finds ranging from tableware to antique furniture and is a wonderful source for beautiful, antiquated objects. I bought an Amish chimney case for our house there.
WA S H I N G T O N L I F E
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Z I E B O L D P H OTO BY J E N N I F E R C H A S E P H OTO G RA P H Y; 1. CO U RT E SY O F R DV V I N E YA R D S ; 2 . B R E A D F U R ST CO U RT E SY O F C E L I A L AU R E N T; 3 . C & O C A N A L P H OTO V I A W I KI M E D I A CO M M O N S ; 4 . CO U RT E SY O F W E SC H L E R’S
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HOW ARE YOU HANDLING YOUR RECENT FAME AFTER BEING LAUDED FOR CULINARY DEXTERITY IN SARAH KAUFMAN’S BOOK ‘THE ART OF GRACE’? The inclusion was very flattering. We used being featured in one of the chapters as a training tool as well as validation of the message of grace and service that we are trying to express to our kitchen and dining room staff.