WATCHISTHIS.COM
INTERVIEWS WITH CEOS OF BAUME ET MERCIER, STOWA, RAIDILLON, MARCH LA.B, VEJRHØJ, VINTAGE VDB, STUCKX, LUM-TEC & VORTIC AND A SPECIAL VISIT AT
CASIO FACTORY FEATURING WATCHES BY TANGRAMATIC | ALF WATCH COMPANY | RAIDILLON | MARCH LA.B | STOWA | VEJRHØJ | VINATAGE VDB | HAMILTON | FLORIJN | TISSOT | STUCKX | LUM-TEC | DM 1936 | BAUME ET MERCIER | BALMAIN | VORTIC AND MANY MORE
WELCOME
Spring is one of my favorite times of the year, because it always seems to bring the promise of summer. In pretty much the same way, Baselworld also brings us what the upcoming year has in store for us when it comes to watches, yet we save those watches for our summer issue. Part of the reason we started this magazine is because we wanted to give you an in-depth experience. The internet is superior when it comes to bringing news in a fast and convenient way, and that is why you can find the latest Baselworld releases on our website www.watchisthis.com But for the magazine, we want a moment of reflection when it comes to all these new offerings, and this takes time. Talking about reflection, also for this issue we’ve spoken with many owners, founders and CEO’s about their watch brands and what moves them. Even after having talked to quite a few of them in the year I’ve been active in the watch industry, their answers are still inspiring and often fueled with passion for the watch industry in general, and of course their own brand in particular. I still believe that it is this passion that keeps the industry so vibrant, because it shows in the watches they create. And that is something we want to do with our magazine as well: spread the passion!
Martin Green Editor-in-Chief
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Men’s section
CONTENTS 7 NEWS: MEN
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TANGRAMATIC - IIN TUNE WITH PASSION
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RAIDILLON AND A PASSION FOR SPEED
ALF WATCH COMPANY
WATCHBASE WATCH LOVERS
INTERVIEW RAIDILLON
Fabien de schaetzen CEO
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INTERVIEW NICOLAS LEHOTZKY
MARCH LA.B THE TIME TRAVELLER’S BRAND
INTERVIEW MARCH LA.B CEO
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CASIO FACTORY VISIT
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34 INTERVIEW JANUS AARUP ,CEO VERHOJ
INTERVIEW JORG SCHAUER CEO STOWA
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WATCHNERD TRENDS- STRAPS
STOWA
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EXPLORING DANISH DESIGNS WITH VERHOJ
CONTENTS 40 42
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VDB SIMPLY EXTRAORDINARY
HAMILTON NAVY PIONEER
INTERVIEW STEPHEN OBST
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INTERVIEW STUCKX
TISSOT FLORIN ULTIMATE DESK DRIVER
INTERVIEW CHRIS WIEGAND, CEO LUM-TEC
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STUCKX; THE ROCK AN THE BULL
58 LUM-TET ABYSS 400M: ALL ROUNDER WITH CHARACTER
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6 WATCHES TO EXPLORE THE WORLD
DM 1936 AIR FORCE REGULATEUR: EYECATCHING!
Ladies’ section
62 NEWS: LADIES
64 INTERVIEW ALAIN ZIMMERMANN CEO OF BAUME ET MERCIER
66 THE STORY OF A LITTLE PROMISE THAT IS NOT SO SMALL…
CONTENTS 67 68
BALMAIN CLASSICS LADY AUTRO 26TH: PASSION FOR FASHION
SESAME SHRIMP LETTUCE WRAPS
The Look 70
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HAMILTON JAZZMASTER VIEWMATIC: THE STYLISH SKELETON
TOP 5 OF THE BEST LADIES’ WATCHES FOR SPRING
Vintage section
76 VORTIC: RENEWING HISTORY
83 FIVE GOLDEN RULES FOR CARING FOR YOUR LEATHER STRAP
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MIST DE CARTIER TANK: TIMELESS CLASS
VORTIC INTERVIEW
84 84 GIRARD-PERREGAUX AND THE QUARTZ REVOLUTION
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HAMILTON DECK WATCHES
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AFTER THOUGHTS
CREDITS
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MEN’S SECTION NEWS TF Est.1968 cufflinks Some watches scream for a shirt with French cuffs, and such a shirt of course needs appropri-ate cuff links. TF Est.1986 is already known for their watch-related cuff links, and their latest of-ferings are housed in a tonneau-shaped case. The rotor, decorated with Geneva stripping, really turns around on the motion of your arms. Blued screws further enhance the experience that you are wearing something special here. They won’t tell time, but will for sure be a conversation piece whenever you wear them! http://www.tfest1968.ch Edox Les Bemonts Perpetual Calendar Symmetry rules the design of the new Edox perpetual calendar from their Les Bemonts collection. Its 42mm case offers plenty of room to space out the two retrograde hands for day and month nicely on the guilloche dial. The third retrograde hand, which indicates the date, is so ele-gantly incorporated in the design you almost forget it is there. Thanks to the perpetual calendar function of the Swiss quartz movement you never have to reset it. www.edox.ch
Dufa Albers Want some bang for your buck? The new Dufa Albers delivers Bauhausinspired understatement with an eye for detail. The date wheel matches the color of the dial (very rare at this price point when the dial is not white or black), and the automatic Japanese Miyota-movement fea-tures a power reserve complication. Although available in a few other colors, we loved the looks of the grey dial with matching grey strap! www. deutsche-uhrenfabrik.de
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Rado True Colours Innovative yet affordable is something that is part of the Rado DNA, but with the new True Col-ours collection they give this yet another boost. Available in three stunning colors—forest green, chocolate brown and ocean blue—they feature a 40mm high-tech ceramic case, high precision quartz movement, and matching Nato-strap. Although they don’t look the part, they will be serv-ing as the new entry-level collection for Rado. www.rado.com Bulova Moon Watch
When Apollo 15 Commander Dave Scott set foot on the moon, he did so with his privatelyowned Bulova chronograph, since his NASAissued chronograph malfunctioned. This year Bulova re-issued this watch, but now featuring one of its high-frequency quartz movements. This not only increases precision, but also keeps the price surprisingly affordable. And of course it is cool to walk on earth with a watch inspired by one that was on the moon! www.Bulova.com Longines RailRoad When you have a rich heritage, like Longines, you can certainly please collectors by reissuing vintage pieces. Longines brings back the RailRoad watch from the 1960’s, that served back then as the faithful timekeeper of engineers all over the globe. The straightforward dial design is easy to read with black numerals on a glossy, cream-colored dial. This gives the watch a prac-tical elegance. This is matched by the caliber L888.2 movement, with a generous power reserve of 64 hours. www.longines.com
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Tangramatic
Passion ;
IN TUNE WITH
Born Down Under, Tangramatic started its life as a Kickstarter project in 2014. This was a clever way of getting not only funding, but also traction in the world of watch enthusiasts.
Owner and designer Francis del Mundo has a specific way of bringing his designs to life. They seem clean and simple, but a closer look reveals interesting details and clever design solutions to ensure wearing comfort. Tangramatic’s first model was designated 39a, the ‘a’ being for Alpha, and 39 is indeed it’s diameter. The watch looks low-key, but packs plenty to put a smile on its owner’s face on a day-to-day basis. The 39a is one of those watches that will never bore you, or run out of style. One of Del Mundo’s passions is playing the violin, and classical music is very set in its ways, yet musicians always find a way to variate within these boundaries, making the piece their own. That is exactly what Del Mundo did with the different versions of the 39a. For the California dial, he used a brown base color on the dial and made the numerals thinner than is common.
Tangramatic 39A
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Tangramatic 39 Alpha Moon Bauhaus
The pilot’s version features a black dial with a combination of numerals with increments in fourths and dots to indicate the hours. As strange as this combination sounds, it works and it works well. The same can be said of the Bauhaus version of the 39a. Usually minimalistic dials rule here, but Del Mundo takes the freedom to play with words, staying in tune, but creating something entirely different. That can also be said of his approach to casedesign. The Tangramatic doesn’t feature lugs attached to the entire case, but only to the lower part of the case. This creates a more elegant profile, but also ensures increased wearing comfort because it allows for the watch and strap to really follow the curve of your wrist.
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Tangramatic 39 Alpha Night Bauhaus
That case-style is a feature that is also incorporated in his newest watch, the Nereid. The name was taken from Greek mythology, where it refers to sea nymphs that came to the aid of sailors when they suffered some sort of accident on the seven seas. Although it takes many cues from vintage Marine Chronometers, Del Mundo once again makes it his own. With a diameter of 42mm, it is a bit more generous than the 39a. It uses that space for a clean and legible dial with a fine brushed texture and stick hands telling time. It is powered by a Miyota caliber 8245 or 8247, depending in whether you prefer the version with the sub-seconds or the one with the subseconds and 24-hour indicator.
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Eye for detail is also visible on the beautifully decorated crown, in style with the theme of the watch. The practical side is also not forgotten, and just like the 39a, all Nereids also feature a sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside. This way you still have the advantages of the coating but cannot damage it from the outside. What is perhaps Del Mundo’s main achievement is that with two models, and the few varieties amongst them, he has already set a consistent brand image with design features that evolve, yet can never be mistaken for anything other than a Tangramatic. Such an achievement so close to the brand’s maiden voyage promises a lot for the future.
Nereid Pacifica White Dial
Nereid Pacifica Blue Dial
Nereid
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ALF WATCH COMPANY
Changing the pace of Kickstarter
Kickstarter is becoming a crowded place these days. Many watch enthusiasts see an opportunity to make their dreams come true and start a brand of their own.
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The results vary greatly. Some should never have been allowed to see the light of day, while others spice up the watch scene with innovative designs. One new brand in this last category is Alf Watch Company. Founded in 2015 in Sweden, they have a different take on design. Not the typical Scandinavian minimalistic look, but something a little richer. They named the watch Norrsken, which is the Swedish word for the Northern Light, one of nature’s most fascinating phenomena.
They achieve this by not going for a round design, but a square one. A thin, plain bezel surrounds the dial that features several layers. A thin inclined ring around the dial features the minute track, while the plain part of the dial features the hour indices. Through an opening in the middle, the lowest level can be admired, featuring stripped decorations as well as an offcenter sub-seconds.
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Black Red
Black Bronze
Black Gold
The watch is powered by a Miyota caliber 8245, an automatic movement, that is hidden behind a closed case back. This might disappoint some, but delights us. The case back is well decorated, and it shows the character of Alf Watch Company not to give in to the temptation of giving the watch a display back. The Miyota caliber is a very solid workhorse movement, one that gets the job done, but decorations and visual finish are lacking. For most starting brands it is a bridge too far to invest in this, so a well designed case back is the perfect solution. What is also well designed is the side of the case. They feature grooves that really give the watch a lot of character! Because the case curves out, these grooves are even visible when looking on the watch from above. The crown features finer grooves, yet at an angle—a simple twist that makes the crown not only stand out but also allows for a nice amount of friction so that setting the watch is bliss.
Blue
White
All Black
The strap connects straight to the case, allowing for a seamless transition from watch to strap. By applying a double box stitching in a contrasting color, the strap has more than enough character to be well balanced out with the rest of the watch. Alf Watch Company is offering the Norrsken in three different variations: a black on black version, where the 40mm x 40mm case received a black pvd coating. The warm tone of bronze pvd graces the case of another Norrsken. Combined with a black dial and a brown dial it offers a more classic-looking watch. The last version has no pvd coating, but a brushed stainless steel case. With a blue dial and a blue strap, the watch gets a slight nautical look. No matter which version of the Norrsken you choose, all three are distinctly different from what is already available in the market. That for sure will contribute to the staying power of the Alf Watch Company. 11
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Raidillon Fabien DE SCHAETZEN CEO
Speaking with Fabien de Schaetzen, Raidillon’s energetic CEO, is always a pleasure, not least because he always has something new to show us. Because with only fifty-five watches made of each model, the collection expands and renews at a rapid speed. The same can be said of their accessory collection, which they continue to develop and expand, making Raidillon more than just a watch brand. We managed to get Fabien in for a pitstop to ask him the following questions:
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for men. When looking at the competition, we find very few brands with a large range of quality products, beautifully made at reasonable prices. Did you made a lot of changes when you took over the company?
When we took over the company six years ago, we decided to take a big turn. You got involved in Raidillon after it Everything changed, concept, the depth and was founded. What was it that made you extension of the range, the distribution. interested in the brand? The only thing we kept was the limited What got our attention was the brand series of fifty-five timepieces. awareness, the notoriety, the affection and the meaning of Raidillon, which was superior You are one of the very few watch brands to the market share and the sales volume in with Belgian roots. Does being Belgian Belgium and Europe. Raidillon successfully make you different from other watch brands, became accepted and became known when and if so, in what way? the sales were really confidential. If you think of production, we are not that The second reason is that we saw really different as we have a Swiss-made label. big potential in the watches as well as the However, our difference comes from our accessory segment – beautiful objects, limited series of fifty-five pieces. beautiful accessories and beautiful watches
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Raidillon also offers quite an impressive range of accessories, mainly leather goods. Why is this? It has been very clear since the beginning. At first it was an opportunity. The first briefcase was produced because I had been looking for this model for myself for the past ten years. I decided to do a sample. Then a friend saw it, thought it looked good, then a supplier, and he decided to buy it in order to pursue the production. Then in the store environment, it was purely an additional sell. The customer does not hesitate between a watch and a briefcase, especially if he is coming for the revision of the watch. He would then come out of the store with the briefcase. Another advantage was to target and be distributed in other channels, like the concept stores for men. We did a test in December with our actual collection of leather goods and accessories in this kind of store and it was very promising. And the last reason.. It is a lot of fun! What makes a Raidillon a Raidillon? That's a very good question. There are several reasons. the number 55 as all our collections are limited to 55 pieces. Then you find also n°55 at the 11th hour on the dial (because of the 55th minute). Our straps are perforated like the pilot gloves from the 50s. From afar, you can recognize the Raidillon watch through the perforated strap, very typical from our collection. Then the strap has a special curve to adjust perfectly to the rounded case of the watch, and the saddle stitching is different from the other brands, which the expert eye can see.
The kind of leather we use is calfskin, ecological treatment, very plain or nubuck buffalo leather skin, hand-sewn in Belgium. It has a particular way of aging, as it acquires a special patina with time, as with the leather from your grand-father’s briefcase. You also make a very special watch, the watch the Belgium Prime Minister or Foreign Affairs minister gives to Heads of State and foreign dignitaries as an official gift from the Kingdom of Belgium. How did that come about? We have contacted the administration in order to present Raidillon; it was not an easy task as everything has to go through a process. We got very lucky as I was then in contact with the person responsible for finding Belgian presents, other than chocolates and beer for men, and Delvaux (a famous Belgium leather goods manufacturer) for women. Given the option to choose from all the cars in the world, which one would you like to drive around SpaFrancorchamps? I would love to drive a very powerful Porsche. This is a trick question because if I mention GT3 or something faster, I do not have the driving skills to use the full power of the motor, so I would probably only be using 30/40% of the capacity. However, being a co-pilot in a GT or a stunning Aston Martin with one of our Raidillon Pilot Ambassadors and closest friend Eric Van der Poole, can also offer the sensations behind the wheel. One time I had the opportunity of being a co-pilot and I almost fainted, we were driving at 5G negative, and it took me almost three days to recover. If you have no training, it is very intense. And which Raidillon would you prefer around your wrist? This question would be like you asking me which of my kids I prefer! I like them all, I change them from time to time, however the one I wear mostly is the quilted black chronograph with 55 red. The inspiration comes from the quilted seats from old cars!
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It gives us a huge freedom of new models’ production and making unlimited designs. If you sell 10,000 pieces of a watch , the design of it would be more standard, because the objective is to sell all 10,000. When you produce only fifty-five timepieces per model, you can keep the same theme of the design. Furthermore Belgium is well know for its design, as well as for being a country with a strong acceptability worldwide. We are a small country, autonomous and the capital of Europe.
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Raidillon
AND A PASSION FOR SPEED
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A watch named after a corner of a racetrack? That is indeed the case with the Belgian brand Raidillon. But it is not just any corner, or any racetrack. Spa-Francorchamps, located in the Ardennes in Belgium, has always been one of the most demanding race tracks in the world since it was founded in 1920. High speeds are combined with steep inclines and a technically challenging layout of the track. Careers were made or broken here. In 1939 the track was changed, taking out a slow, uphill U-turn and replacing it with a fast straight that goes straight up the hill: the Raidillon was born. In 2001 it was at Spa-Fancorchamps that Raidillon was introduced to the world: a Belgian brand, with a Swiss heart and a passion for speed running through its veins. Each Raidillon is made in a limited edition of only fiftyfive pieces, the maximum number of contestants allowed in a race. As in races, the number thirteen is left out due to superstition. This makes each Raidillon quite unique, perhaps even rare, and also means that most of the brand features quite a few different styles and watches to make up its collection. Of course the majority of their models feature a chronograph complication, powered by one of the most reliable automatic chronograph movements in the world: the ETA/Valjoux 7750. The collection is divided into four families: “Timeless” for more classical watches, “Design” for those with a more high-tech look, “Racing” for those featuring racing stripes and other references to the world of car-racing, and finally “Casual Friday” for the watches that have a more relaxed casual look, perfect to strap on and enjoy after the race. The most prestigious model in the collection is a rattrapante chronograph and since car-racing is an international sport, a model featuring a power reserve and a second time zone is also part of the Raidillon’s universe. No need for complications—then a time-only Raidillon will do, powered by either an ETA 2834 for the 42mm models or ETA 2671 for the 32mm models.
It is probably no surprise that Raidillon is also the official watch of Spa-Francorchamps, but what not many people know is that it is also the official watch of the Kingdom of Belgium, presented as a gift by the King to foreign dignitaries and ambassadors. Featuring the coat of arms of the Kingdom of Belgium, this is also the only Raidillon that is not available for public sale, nor is it limited to fifty-five pieces. Although the brand has a need for speed on the race-track, they obey the speed limits on public roads. That does not mean that they abandon their love for competition. Each year the brand organizes the Raidillon rally, which takes the vintage cars of the contestants over the most beautiful winding roads of the Belgian Ardennes, which are often as challenging as they are beautiful. They make you want to toss a weekend bag in the trunk, put on your driving gloves and drive on into the sunset. At Raidillon they know that feeling, so they also have quite an extensive collection of accessories to fit the automotive lifestyle. Included is also an incredibly large selection of leather straps, handmade in Belgium, that can give your Raidillon (or any other watch) a fresh look, like new rims on your car. So when you see Raidillon’s slogan “Swiss Powered, Race-Minded”, you know that they mean it!
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WATCHBASE THE ONE STOP INFORMATION DATABASE FOR WATCH LOVERS Watchisthis?! is joining forces with WatchBase to bring you even more indepth information about the watches we write about. Based in Amsterdam, the Netherlands, WatchBase is a website that aims to bring accurate, honest and reliable information on each and every watch together on one single website. We recently had the chance to sit down with its founders Alwin and Alon, and resident Watch Expert Dale, to talk about this ambitious project.
How did you come to start WatchBase? Alwin: Both Alon and I long had the idea to start something like this. My background is in creating large online databases and the software to access them, for example collectors of movies, books, and comics. Alon has a background in watches and jewelry. When we first met each other it didn’t take long before we came up with the concept of WatchBase. When Dale joined us as resident Watch Expert our team was complete and we went to work.
Why Watchbase? Alon: In our experience, good and reliable information on watches isn’t always easy to come by. For example, manufacturers often tend to hide where their movements are sourced from, claiming they’re in-house, when really they’re sourced from either specialized third-party manufacturers, or re-badged ETA or Sellita movements. How would a casual consumer ever find out what’s really powering their watch?
Alon
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What type of information are you displaying? How is the database set up?
The same goes for brands that are open to sharing their archives – yes please!
How will you keep this data free of errors? Alwin: A few months back we introduced the ‘Report Data Error’ button. We’ve made it very easy for visitors to report a mistake in our data should they spot one. We’ve received quite a few emails already – a good example of the watch community helping to keep our data accurate. We also just launched MyWatchBase, where our users can enter and track their collections, including prices paid, date of purchase and whether a particular watch includes the original boxes, papers, warranty cards. In the future this will help us establish fair market values for these watches.
Alwin: The basic set-up is pretty simple: there’s a watch, and there’s the movement powering it. They’re Alon: And of course in the end, all data is handtwo separate databases. When paired together, they checked and approved by our team. make up a full entry that’s visible on our website. There are many brands that are very secretive about Dale: The movement entry lists all information the origins of their movements. How will you tackle regarding the caliber, its functions and its technical this? specs, including its base movement if applicable. The watch entry lists all other information. This of Dale: This is a point of concern. Indeed many brands course includes dimensions, materials and dial color, are not that generous with details, especially in the but also information like the limitation, introduction EUR 1,500 – EUR 5,000 range. Both below as well and discontinuation dates, and pricing information. as above this level, information seems to be much less While editing, a caliber is paired to a watch and we foggy. I am however confident that with the power of have a full entry. the watch-collecting community as a whole, we’ll be able to clear up a mystery here and there… Alwin: This set-up also allows us to display things like all watches using the ETA 2824 or all movements What are your plans for the future? based on the Valjoux 7750. It’s pretty sophisticated. Alon: Simply put – to become THE number one Alon: The pricing is shown as a graph, allowing our reference page for watch collectors. The IMDB. The users to see the movements in retail pricing. In the Wikipedia. Smash myths, establish prices and propel future we’ll also display prices on the secondary this community into the future! market. We’re often asked how much a certain watch is worth on the open market. Now people can see for themselves. I can imagine the amount of data must be huge… Dale: It is indeed. At the moment we have some 12,000 unique watches and 1,000 different movements listed, all of them entered into our database by hand. While this may sound like a lot, it is just a start. Honestly we’re barely scratching the surface of this wonderful hobby and we are looking to add many, many more watches and movements. We welcome collectors and connoisseurs of each and any brand to use our platform to share their knowledge, whether it is of a brand, a particular complication, or even a specific model.
Dale | Alwin
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Dale: And that’s just the basic stuff. In-depth information on rare and limited models is often buried on obscure specialist websites. It’s scattered around the web without any real standard of what’s being mentioned and what’s not. Or it’s only available in high-priced books. We highly appreciate and respect all the work done by the collectors and scholars behind these websites, but at the same time we think it’s time to set a new standard. To bring this information together in one single place, using one single format. And make it better.
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At Watchisthis?! we love to give you an intimate insight into the watch business.
In our last issue we talked with watch designer Eric Giroud, and this time we are joined by Nicolas Lehotzky, Product Manager with The SWI Group. This family business was recently acquired by Clearlake Capital, and is mainly known for its brands Swiss Legend and Lucien Piccard.
Nicolas INTERVIEW
LEHOTZKY
As a Product Manager, what is your biggest challenge? My duties are creating the right collections at the right price, at the right quantity and quality level and delivering them on time. Unlike standardized industrial goods, watches are objects with many features that need to come together in a cohesive manner. There are challenges in every area; every detail of a watch, such as the shape of the hands, the amount of luminous, dial fin-ish, marker finish or caseback markings for example, can be a source of issues as it progress-es through the manufacturing stage.
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Another challenge is that the mass market sector is price sensitive, hence we have to work on limited budgets and do not have the luxury of adding very expensive standout features to our products. The challenge is how to make a watch design stand out with minimal added costs.
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Lucien Piccard bosphorus gold
How do you ensure that you stay in touch with the consumers? Customer feedback is necessary and a valuable guideline in the planning of collections, design elements and features. It is often small details that catch people's attention and have an impact on a product's success. I am not directly in touch with end buyers, but review their feedback via the customer service department which passes on their communication to us, and quantitative information via sales reports. Are you also involved in the design process of the watches? The task of coordinating work with the designers is shared among four of us. A general design direction for each brand is defined with the VP of Products, Nisso Barokas, and then executed by the team. We put a lot of emphasis on design, more than is generally the norm for watch brands in our price category. What is the most important aspect of an affordable watch in your opinion? Despite being affordable, it should look and feel valuable and make its owner proud.
How do you see the market evolving? In the mass market watch industry, I believe that over time consumers will shift their attention away from brand names toward products and originality in design. The market is currently satu-rated with brands mostly competing with similar products that put the label front and center, thanks to licensing agreements with fashion labels. Could you tell the difference between an Armani and a Guess watch, if it wasn't for the logo on the dial? The interest of owning a luxury branded product partially stems from the desire for exclusivity, but once there is a luxury boutique at every street corner in every city, luxury brands will face the risk of becoming commodities, particularly those that give less attention to their products. The recent success of a few small, design-driven brands may signal the beginning of this trend. What do you find the most fascinating aspect of the watch industry? That its products have kept fascinating people for over 300 years, even today in the digital age. The wrist remains a place for a special product.
Swiss Legend
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Express yourself with the customizer tool on our website. With Miang Copenhagen you can set your own standard of time. Automatic or Automatic GMT.
More than 400,000 possible combinations P ri ce f r om U S $ 2 9 5 i nc lu d in g c u s t o m iza t io n a n d s h ip p in g . www.mi a n g c o p e n h a g e n . c o m
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interview
Alain Marhic
CEO AND FOUNDER OF MARCH LA.B
Watchisthis?! met with Alain Marhic, CEO and founder of March LA.B, but most of all a charismatic man who seemed to have been beamed over from another era.
But to be accurate, we focus more on the early seventies prior to the plastic era, when products were mostly made of wood, steel and leather. Just simple, bold and elegant. Also, during these years the design started to become a bit more aggressive and less soft. The curves were not so round and started to become angulated, the angles appeared everywhere and became sharper and sharper, and emerged in furniture, in cars and other objects.
Next to watches, March LA.B also makes amazing short movies. What is your goal with these Oversized glasses com-bined with an elegant cool look films? make him as Seventies as a Jaguar XJ-S in Cotswold This is a kind of manifesto to show what we have in Yellow. We could fortunately draw him away from mind as far as our aesthetic vision. An im-age speaks enjoying Champagne cocktails with Danny Wilde more than 1000 words‌was a saying by Confucius, and Lord Brett Sinclair to answer a few questions: so a movie is even stronger, since it is a compilation of March LA.B has a very seventies look to it. Why many images which could then represent thousands of words. Then the music adds an extra perception of especially focus on this era? the brand by touching another emotion. Well this is honestly really simple, as this is the decade that we love so much in terms of design and architecture. 21
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MEN’S SECTION How important is it for the brand identity that March LA.B stands with one leg in the US and the other in France? The brand is a real crossover between these two cultures, especially in terms of design. We have mixed the European/French classical heritage with a modern, cool LA flavor. This is what we like and feel good about, as we love and are proud of all the European history… we also real-ly like the Californian way of life and being cool. Where do you get your inspiration from? Vintage cars, furniture, architecture mostly… and of course some of the old watches! Do you have a personal favorite in the collection? Yes, the AM59 is my favorite as it is the smaller one and the most retro! Next to watches and travel clocks March LA.B also makes small leather goods and candles. Why no eye/ sun glasses? On a more serious note: is March LA.B a watch brand or more a lifestyle brand? March LA.B is a watch brand for watch connoisseurs. We only do leather goods for our cus-tomers in our stores. There is no goal to develop an entire accessories division for now as cre-ating watches takes a lot of time and energy. Where do you want to take the brand? We would like to grow in a safer and smaller way in order to keep our vision and stick to our convictions. We do not want to make any consensus on the design we believe in. It means that we will never match everybody’s taste hopefully! March LA.B donates a percentage of its income to associations which focus on suicide pre-vention. Why specifically this cause? Well, sideways of building a business based on money we felt that something could be made in a more ethical way. Suicide is a critical topic that nobody speaks about, when we should speak much more about it in order to save a lot of depressed people contemplating it. This should not be a sad topic but a happy one as giving back faith and hope to people saves them. A lot of simple things need to be known as most people have some wrong ideas about it. 22
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MARCH LA.B,
THE TIME
TRAVELER’S
BRAND
March LA.B is nothing short of a time traveler’s brand. Their watches seem to have been snatched from the wrists of people like Michael Caine, Roger Moore and Richard Roundtree, in the 70’s that is, and transported to the current time. Their watches are not an
homage—they are the real deal, only built and created a couple of decades later. To convey this all in an article is quite difficult, but for some reason Jerome Mage, March LA.B’s creative director, has been able to somehow put himself in a 70’s frame of mind and create watches from that perspective.
AM1 Automatic Forest
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The results are nothing short of spectacular. Expect domed crystals, square cases, unique color combinations and an urban elegance that has been long gone. For that matter, don’t expect huge oversized watches as a compromise to today’s fashion. March LA.B rightfully realized that the men from the 70’s never felt threatened in their manhood by being elegant. The only place where we find a modern touch in March LA.B’s watches is under the hood. Here there are no vintage sentiments, but modern quartz movements by Ronda (to which March LA.B refers as electric, to stay true to the era they are dedicated to) or automatic movements by Miyota. Those automatic movements have something special. Not only are they nicely decorat-ed and feature a rotor with typical March LA.B decorations, but also the glass back is tinted in a pine green. This not only represents the signature color of March LA.B, but also really pulls the experience of the watch into the 70’s. March LA.B uses the same color green in leather to line the inside of their watch straps. Small but oh-so-important details.
It is hard to find a signature watch in the collection of March LA.B, since they are all so different and full of character. A highlight is however the AM59 Automatic Tiger Eye. This watch features a 36mm gold PVD case, and a dial cut from tiger eye, the semiprecious stone known for its gold/brown banding. This watch oozes 70’s style and sophistication, where the smaller case size actually increases the visual impact, because it offers a contrast with modern day fashion that people’s eyes cannot help but to be drawn to. Dials cut from semi-precious stone are quite rare these days, and that is due to the fact that the expertise to slice pieces of a stone off that are thin enough to use as a dial has almost vanished. An extra reason to crave this watch!
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AM1 Automatic Forest
Valois
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AM59 tiger eye
Loving to surprise, March LA.B has also created an unusual travel clock. Shaped like a vintage lighter, it features a case engraved with lines in typical March LA.B fashion. The top can be slid open and out will pivot a small alarm clock, making it a perfect travel companion, but there’s nothing to stop you from using it as a pocket watch as well. So fire up your ’73 Buick Riviera Boat tail, or jump in the back seat of your Cadillac DeVille or Citroen DS and let somebody else do the driving—the night is young and the champagne cocktails are waiting!
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Another highlight is the AM2 Automatic Mage with two-tone dial. The combination of burgundy with black, and the gold accents of the hour markers really set this watch off, especially when fitted with a black lizard strap. The date wheel of this watch is, just like on all the other March LA.B watches, in black. Although it particularly suits this watch, it even suits the watches with lighter color dials just as well. It actually makes you wonder why most brands still opt for white date wheels with a black date printed on them.
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CASIO FACTORY VISIT
For Watchisthis?! Alon Ben Joseph, owner of the Ace Jewelers Group in Amsterdam, shares his experience visiting the Casio factory, home of the famous G-Shock.
My fascination for Japan is as big as my passion for watches and it has been a life-long dream to one day visit the Land of the Rising Sun. So when last year Casio invit-ed my dad and me to visit their home country and learn more about their company, I couldn’t have been more excited. Our trip would prove to be an unforgettable experi-ence. I started wearing watches in 1983, at the age of four. It was in this year that both Swatch and the first Casio G-Shock were launched, and with my dad being a jeweler, I of course was among the first to be sporting these new ‘plastic’ watches. Now, thirty-two years later, we can safely say that both were revolutionary in their own way and both have proven to be here to stay. Both still put a smile on my face whenever I strap one of them to my wrist. Who would ever have thought that 1983 would turn out to be such a pivotal year for the watchmaking industry? But whereas the history of Swatch and the Swatch Group holds little mystery, my trip to Japan made me realize I knew much less about Casio, its philosophy, the quality of its watches and the full span of its collections. 26
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Upon our return to Tokyo, we were invited to the Casio HQ to learn more about the Casio philosophy and history. Casio didn’t introduce its first watch until 1974, but it was the 1983 introduction of the G-Shock that would really cement the brand's reputation. Up until that point, watches were a rather fragile affair. It was Kikuo Ibe who came up with the so-called Triple 10 Criteria that would come to define the G-Shock and change the way we look at watches: to be worthy of the G-Shock moniker, they would have to withstand a fall from 10 meters, have a 10atm (100m) water resistance and have a 10-year battery life. The devel-opment of the G-Shock was in line with Casio’s credo “creativity and contribution”, which ex-presses the company’s commitment to contributing to society by offering the kind of original, useful products that only Casio can. While G-Shock design is primarily based on the Form-FollowsFunction philosophy, inspira-tion is still drawn from a wide array of fields, like professional equipment, the automotive industry, urban culture and much more. A prime example is the new Mudmaster, which was conceived after a fire fighter and G-Shock fan wrote Casio that the pushers on his watch were hard to use when he was wearing his gloves at work. Just like the manufacturing itself, all design is completely done in-house, by Casio-trained designers. After all this, one question remained: how about a mechanical Casio watch? The answer was pretty simple: historically Casio is a technology company and not a watchmaker. There is the desire to grow and evolve in the timekeeping sector by innovation and precision. As such, mechanical watches currently do not fit this strategy. Alon Ben Joseph (left) with his father David Ben Joseph in Japan
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After our arrival in Tokyo, we quickly boarded one of the famous bullet trains to the Yamaga-ta prefecture, which is where one of Casio’s production facilities is located. What struck me about the region were its similarities to the famous watchmaking valleys of Switzerland, where in days gone by farmers used to be cut off from the rest of the world with plenty of time to hone their skills in precision manufacturing. It thus didn’t come as a surprise that the Yamagata facility was dedicated to the production of Casio’s high-end watches that proudly bear ‘Made in Japan’. All parts are manufactured fully in-house: not only the cases and the movements, but also the machines, robots and tooling needed to create them. The level of craftsmanship and attention to quality was very impressive.
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Jörg Schauer
Jörg Schauer has always been a pioneer. He was one of the first who started to craft watches independently of the large brands, in his signature, straightforward style.
Combined with afforda-ble prices, they became a huge success. What many people don’t know is that for two decades he has been the owner and CEO of Stowa. Time for an interview!
interview
JÖRG SCHAUER 28
You have become famous with your own watches. What made you buy Stowa? Stowa’s owner—the son of the founder—retired and was looking for someone to take care of the brand while continuing the tradition of producing watches. With me as a new owner, there is an uninterrupted history from 1927. Stowa has a very rich history. How do you deal with this historical responsibility when you create new watches? I respect the past and try to bring it to a new level—in the way of design but also in the way of technique and materials. The baseline of Stowa always will be its history. Not only in producing watches, but also in working together with suppliers and staff in a very fair way. Stowa is au-thentic, and a fair partner for all—consumers, suppliers and people who work with Stowa.
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This year it has been twenty years since you took over What can we expect of Stowa in the near future? the brand. What accomplishment in those twenty years We will keep the tradition, but we are also focused are you most proud of? on new design, new technology and we are trying to That I have enlarged its popularity worldwide. make the next step in thinking differently. But the Whenever somebody wants a German watch with a most important thing is that our cus-tomers can be nice design for a very good price he will find something sure that we will do everything to keep good relations in our collection. with them. Stowa is a genuine German brand. How does that set Good relations because we take care about their you apart from the Swiss brands? problems. We are focused on simple design, good readability, Good relations because we want to give the best and combine this with German engineering. service. What aspect of Stowa is relatively unknown, but you Good relations because we try to keep our price range think that more people should know about? which is the best you can have because we are selling direct to our customers. That we are selling watches to more than eighty countries worldwide, and that we have a uninterrupted history, but most importantly, I promised the son of the owner who was the CEO for many decades that I would do everything to maintain the good worldwide reputation of Stowa, and when I bought Stowa I had to sign this agreement!
JĂśrg Schauer and Hartmut Esslinger
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STOWA
the German brand everybody should know In the world of watches, Stowa is still a hidden gem to many. It was founded in 1927 by Walter Storz in Hornberg, located in Germany’s Black Forest. In 1935 it relocated to
Pforzheim, and in the years to come they would introduce some of the brand’s most iconic pieces, like their collec-tion of Bauhaus watches followed by the Marine Beobachtungsuhr (the marine observation watch). Stowa was also one of the brands that produced the original B-uhr for the Luftwaffe, the large pilot watch with a diameter of 55 mm. Heavy bombing raids destroyed the factory of Stowa and forced the brand to the town of Rheinfelden near the Swiss border, where a new chapter of the brand began. The brand picked up where it left off and was joined in 1960 by Storz’s son, Werner. In 1963, the first Seatime was introduced, and then in 1970 the world’s smallest clock. 30
Flieger Chronograph Klassik
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Movement Stowa Marine Original
The current collection contains highlights of the past, as well as contemporary interpretations of them. Updated versions of the Marine Beobachtungsuhr and the B-uhr are still in the collection, and of course Bauhaus watches can also be found in the Antea-collection. This gives Stowa a very broad range of different watches, yet all with a clear family lineage. They are crafted in an efficient, German way, combining no-nonsense production with a good finish and packing reliable, Swiss-made movements. The brand has also embraced direct sales to consumers through the web-shop on its website. Not only does this keep prices lower, but it also allows for direct communication between the brand and its customers. A unique expression of this is the engrav-ing service that they offer. For a modest surcharge, you can have the rotor or one of the gears of your watch engraved with a name or initials.
Stowa also has only mechanical watches in its collection, not surprising given the passion that has always run through the veins of its owners, but still, economic circumstances usually force brands into things they don’t really want to do for the sake of growth. Stowa prefers to be a big fish in a little pond, rather than the other way around. That makes it a brand not everybody Stowa Antea Kleine Sekunde knows, and probably only adds to the appeal of those who do! 31
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Seatime Black Forest Edition
Since 1995 the brand has been in the capable hands of Jörg Schauer. After making his name and fame with a collection watches under his own name, he now takes care of the legacy of Stowa. He does so with great skill and consideration. Although a formidable force when it comes to design, he did get help from watch-collector and founder of Frog Design, Hartmut Esslinger.
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WA T C H N E R D T R E N D S
#WATCHNERD TRENDS - STRAPS I have always been game when it comes to changing straps. It’s a fun way to bring a bit of your own personali-ty to a watch and let’s be honest - the standard straps are often sub-par, uncomfortable or just plain boring. The market for straps has been booming in the last couple of years.. Remember when it was hard to find a NATO strap of decent quality, or one with an usual pattern like camo? Not any more. Back in the day I had to go to oldfashioned jewellers or department stores to get perlon-type straps, as those be were the only places still stock-ing them, while nowadays they seem to everywhere - thank you Instagram. How time flies! So, how do you keep your strap game on point, #WatchNerd style?
NATO - after all these years, you still can’t beat a good NATO strap. Even if the big-name manufacturers have now hopped on the bandwagon, they’re still cool. A quick word on SuiGeneric – pay attention to them. The straps by these guys bring a near-irresistible bit of fun. Polarisation guaranteed, and so are conversations.
Then there are leather straps. We’ve seen the big, bad, Panerai-type straps with seven layers of leather and/or overly thick padding. These are done . with. The key nowadays is thinness, comfort, elegance and nonchalance with No tapering is no-go; the taper should preferably even be vintage style a 4mm drop. Exotic too is cool again, with suave materials like teju lizard and ostrich taking the lead. Horween and the so-called ‘vintage’ style with hardly any visible stitching? Yes please.
Perlon: perhaps overplayed by the hipster Instagram crowd? They are still fun and cheap though. Honestly I haven’t quite made up my mind on these. a Things used to be way more fun when something like this would be is discovery, only available for those in the know. Nowadays overexposure everywhere. Sigh. I’ll be back soon for more #WatchNerd Trends. For now, stay strapped.
Dale Vito Boom Suigeneric Nato strap
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J O RG S HAU E R
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Starting your own watch brand is quite a decision, especially when you also want to tackle a challenging material like wood for your first collection. Watchisthis?! sat down with Janus Aarup of Vejrhøj to see what moves him.
What inspired you to start your own watch brand? I got intrigued by the idea of starting my own watch brand while I was working on my master’s thesis about Danish design in North America. I started to play around with a few simple designs and prototypes, which I got into production and then managed to get into some of the wellestablished designer stores in Scandinavia.
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Janus Aarup V
e
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r
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I believe that wood has some warm and authentic characteristics, which artificial materials don’t. Moreover, there is the aesthetic appeal of the wooden grains, which always differ a little, making each watch unique in its own way. But I probably also have a predisposition towards natural materials, as I grew up at the foot of the Vejrhøj hills and forest, next to the sea. - Being a natural product, using wood for the case is very challenging and only Tissot has really done this on a large scale with its wood watch. How do you deal with these challenges? We have been through three rounds of prototypes since we made the first designs for the NAU-TIC collection back in the summer of 2014. Wood is more challenging to work with than artificial materials, as it imposes some restrictions on the dimensions of the design, for example with regards to the width of the bezel, and the thickness of the case and dial. So, we deal with these challenges by having patience and persistency during product development. - There are many watch brands out there, often competing for the same customer. What is Vejrhøj’s edge in your opinion? Our edge is quality materials and a simple yet distinctive design. We combine hardwood with 316 stainless steel, Swiss-made Ronda movements and sapphire crystal glass. I also believe that Bo Bonfills, the Danish designer whom we collaborate with, has been able to give our new collection a maritime touch without a lot of unnecessary clutter.
So we have maintained the sim-plicity rooted in Nordic design culture, even though the design is quite characteristic due to the combination of hardwood, steel and the resemblance to nautical instruments. - What direction do you want to take Vejrhøj in the near future? We are keeping our focus on crafting watches made from wood and steel. Right now we are fo-cused on manufacturing and finding great distributors and retail partners, so new customers will get a chance to discover and try out the watches. We were also able to ask Bo Bonfills, the Danish design legend who contributed to the Nautic collection of Vejrhøj, a few questions. A man of few words, he prefers to speak through his de-signs, yet there is wisdom and truth in the words he shares: - What made you, as an established and wellknown designer, get on board with a brand new brand like Vejrhøj? Janus - being a young enthusiast and a good sport like myself. - The Vejrhøj is not the first watch you've designed. How different is designing a watch from oth-er objects? Just different—as simple as that. - From where do you get your inspiration? I wish I knew—either it is there or it is not.
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- What made you decide to make the case partially from wood?
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Exploring Danish
design with
VEJRHØJ Crafting watches from wood is a potential recipe for disaster. Being a natural product, a living product, which is never exactly the same and is influenced by heat, moisture and light, it can be treacherous territory for any brand to craft a watch from. Tissot did it in the 1980’s with their fa-mous Wood Watch, and some brands, including Rolex, have occasionally offered wood veneer dials, but that’s it. The fact that a new brand wants to tackle this challenging material is down-right crazy, or is it?
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The design is inspired by nautical navigational instruments, and that is why it was christened Nautic. The back of the watch is crafted from metal, with engraved ridges in it. They are not only for decorative purpose but will also keep the watch in place when on the wrist. The metal back also secures the strap in a way that is invisible from the front, making it seem that the leather strap is an integrated part of the watch. The top part of the case is crafted from wood. VEJRHØJ selected some of the most expressive woods to craft this part from. It really changes the look of the watch if you select Zebra wood, Ebony or Maple, which VEJRHØJ has matched up with either plain stainless steel parts or a gold or gunmetal finish. Inside the wooden case is a metal ring that has a slight slope towards the dial, which is also crafted from wood. A metal frame on top of the wooden dial shows the hour and minute marks, as well as adding some extra depth to the watch.
Nautic55north.At the harbour
The result is a very clean design, and the contrast between the metal and wood really amplifies the expressive patterns in this natural product. VEJRHØJ fortunately decided to only show the hours and the minutes, choosing to forgo the second hand. The design is so well balanced that a ticking second hand would have negatively affected this. The Nautic is powered by Ronda’s quartz caliber 762 3H, a reliable choice. The movement can be accessed by loosening the four screws that hold the back plate in place, in case of battery changes. Would we have preferred to see a mechanical movement in this watch? The watch connoisseur inside us says yes, but this would not really have added anything extra to the watch, except quite a few euros to its price tag. For a first watch, VEJRHØJ has defied the odds and conquered a challenging material to create a great watch. Especially if they continue the partnership with Bo Bonfils, they might become an institution of Danish design in their own right. 37
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Nautic 68 North
VEJRHØJ is the brainchild of Janus Aarup, who named his watch brand after the hillside slopes next to the sea where he grew up in Denmark. His vision was to create an elegant, timeless watch in true Scandinavian tradition. A contagious vision, because Janus was able to infect Bo Bonfils with it. This Grand Master of Danish design has designed his fair share of watches, but is best known for the cutlery he designed for Georg Jensen. The design is also VEJRHØJ’s greatest asset, because it is as clever as it is beautiful. Where the Tissot Wood watch was dom-inated by wood, VEJRHØJ uses wood as an ingredient, rather than the main course.
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Stephan Obst with TillLindemann from Rammstein
Stephan Obst I N T ER V I E W
That passion can take you anywhere, Stephan Obst is the living proof. What many saw as a man giving up everything to chase a dream resulted in making unique watches worn by celebri-ties like KISS and Rammstein. We sat down with Stephan to talk about his unique journey: 38
You gave up everything you’d worked for to make your first watch. What inspired you to make such a drastic move? I began my passion for watches with repairing the timekeepers of my family and friends. But I always had the dream to build my own watch. And as I gained enough experience with my job as a precision mechanic, I had all I needed to build my first one—the VDB I. I posted my first pictures in a great forum and one guy insisted on buying my first watch, so I made some more—and soon they were sold out. Still today I receive requests for building her again, but there is definitely no repeat run.
MEN’S SECTION A custom-made watch for us and also the future owner is always something very special. To communicate with the customer, understand what he likes and use all our creativity to build a watch that surpasses his vision is always a very exciting part.
Every VDB watch has this unique "VDB" style and is something very special. I get my best in-spiration of the old military- and diver-watches and connect them with the unique VDB style.
Unlike other brands, you also work a lot with vintage movements. Why is this important for you?
Because every movement has its own history and builds the unique heart of every watch. VDB is very different from any other watch For us it's very important that the story out there. What is for you an essential part behind a movement is as unique as the final that every VDB must have to be a real VDB? watch and has proved its quality in a long history beyond. The heart of every VDB watch is its movement—and I always choose some very Is there still a type of watch that you really rare and vin-tage movement that has its own want to make but haven't yet? And if so, what history and has proved its quality to be a real kind of watch is it? "daily beater". Al-so the choice of all sorts I have so many ideas for future watches and of extraordinary materials, the great size of there are also some very rare and unique more than 42mm and the straps which are ones, different from all the others I’ve built 28mm wide. before. But it's the story behind every good The collection of VDB has three pillars: serial idea—it needs time to grow to be as good as, watches, handmade watches and custom- maybe better than, all my past watches. made watches. Is it very different to work on one collection or the other?
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Years have passed and your watches have been very well received, to the extent that VDB has a very passionate, hard-core group of enthusiasts who love your work. Where do you get your inspiration from now your brand is more established?
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Vintage VDB:
Simply
Extraordinary
VDB No limit Bronze 004
Looking for an ordinary watch? Something that will make you fit in with the crowd? Then please move on—Vintage VDB is definitely not for you! In fact, the brand’s founding story is as unique as its watches. Stephan Obst decided to sell all his possessions and move into a basement to start creating watches with little prior experience, but a magic touch for fine mechanics. The watches he crafted were unlike anything else, and are still in a league of their own. They are bold, expressive, and crafted with a solid quality Germans seem to have a patent on. They are still made mainly by hand, only not in a basement any more.
With Vintage VDB, Obst has created an almost cult-like following that even includes the mem-bers of the rock-band KISS. The attraction is not only that Vintage VDB is different from anything else on the market, but also the approach Obst takes to his watches. The brand has three col-lections: serial watches, handmade watches and custom-made watches. That last one Obst starts from scratch, turning your dream into a watch. With handmade watches you get a very limited production watch that is powered by legendary vintage movements from Rolex and Uni-versal Geneve. This is in the spirit of Obst’s very first watch, the Vintage VDB One, which was powered by a Glashütte Spezimatic movement. 40
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For Watchisthis?! we focus on the serial watches, because many of those fit within the magazine’s profile of high quality yet more affordable watches priced below US$2.500. This is achieved by making them in slightly higher volumes, and trust on more common, yet reliable mechanical movements from ETA. However, you do get the same Vintage VDB treatment as with the other watches, so expect something big, heavy and bold enough to deflect an artillery shell head-on! A slight military pedigree is undeniable in many of the watches, but this probably also has something to do with the fact that they are built so robustly that the only thing they show some resemblance with are indeed tanks and aircraft carriers.
VDB No limit Bronze
VDB No limit military
VDB No limit polished
The most common-looking model is the No Limit, which is available in five variations including one with a bronze case. They look like a classic navy diver’s watch, yet their size and details show you that in fact they aren’t. Obst redesigned the edges on the bezel so you have better grip and with a diameter of 45mm it is still a watch for the faint of heart. The details show the la-bor of love, because it does seem as if every part of the watch has been thought through over and over again, until it was perfect. You also get a watch that is quite unique, not only in looks, but also in volume, since all No Limit models are limited, and the most Vintage VDB will make of a model is eighty. With the 2014, Obst moves even further away from what is generally considered a normal watch. The 2014 looks like a designer from the 1970’s was asked to design a military watch of the future. The dial and bezel really give that vintage look, but the size, case and craftsmanship bring you straight back into the 21st century, the GMT version even more so, because of its use of contrasting colors. Both are also powered by automatic ETA-movements, which are as relia-ble as the VDB is robust. In the world of watches, there is nothing like a Vintage VDB, and that means that not everybody will like them. And that is actually fine by those who do!
With special thanks to Louis Chong
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It brought forth legends like the Hamilton Khaki, a loyal companion for many soldiers, and of course the Ventura, which even seduced Elvis Presley. That Hamilton was also a prominent manufacturer of Marine Chronome-ters is something not everybody knows. Also in this issue of Watchisthis?! Magazine you'll find an in-depth article on the history of these unique Hamiltons. As a tribute to these watches, Ham-ilton has created three models that were inspired by them: the Khaki Pioneer collection. Hamilton Khaki navy pioneer
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Khaki Pioneer
If there is one watch brand that can be proud of its history, it is Hamilton. As one of America’s most prominent watch brands, it has pretty much done everything. 42
Clean and classic would most certainly describe this sub-collection within the Khaki-line. Availa-ble in three different varieties, two of them are time-only models. The one with the sub-seconds at six o’clock comes the closest to the original design of the Marine Chronometers. It’s available in three dial colors. Although perhaps a detail, it changes the look of the watch tremendously. A black dial makes the watch more formal looking, while the version with the deep blue dial is of course a great reference to the ocean. Both of these watches have silver hands, but the white dial version features blued hands, adding classic appeal. The tube shape of the lugs might give the impression that they are one part, with the strap stitched onto them. This is merely a visual treat, because the watch uses regular spring bars to secure the strap. No matter which Khaki Pioneer you select, they all have a date function. This takes a bit away from the clean looks of the watches, but it adds a dose of practicality that particularly people who select this watch as a daily companion will appreciate. They might also be most tempted by the version with the central second hand. This version looks more modern than its brother with sub-seconds, but the hands, font of the numerals and shape of the case leave little mystery as to its pedigree.
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Hamilton Khaki navy pioneer
Although Hamilton never points this out, they are indeed a brand of chronographs. Almost every model is available as a chronograph and fortunately the Khaki Pioneer is no exception. Hamilton went for only two sub-dials for the Pioneer Chronograph. This means no running seconds; in return you get a very clean dial, something this watch needs to stay true to the heritage of Ma-rine Chronometers. Water resistance is just like the other members of the Pioneer collection: 100meters/328 feet, so it is not afraid of water. With 44mm the chronograph is only 1mm larger than the other watches in the Pioneer collection. Hamilton utilizes this space well, being able to keep the subdials of the chronograph close to the center of the dial, so that they don’t eat too much into the numerals. This really preserves the overall look of the watch. The design of the chronograph pushers add to this. By not being solid blocks of steel, but tubes with a round disc on top, they not only fit the style of the watch but are also easy to operate.
Being part of the Swatch-group means that Hamilton has access to some of the most robust and reliable movements in the industry. They are fitted in all three versions of the Khaki Pioneer. The chronograph runs on caliber H-21, which is an upgraded version of the legendary ETA/Valjoux 7750, now featuring sixty hours of power reserve instead of the usual fortytwo. Caliber H-10, fitted in the Pioneer with central seconds, is even more impressive with a power reserve of eighty hours. The finish of the movements is practical and in line with the look of the watch itself. Some might choose the Khaki Pioneer because they are fond of nautical history, while others choose it because of its looks that show vintage style but are not overly classic. Both will most likely be very pleased with their watch, because Hamilton not only scores in the look and feel department, but also finishes strongly by offering a very high level of quality and finish in relation to the price.
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Florijn
Ultimate desk diver Some watches are the result of a true labor of love, carefully developed with an eye for detail, with few expenses spared. Such watches usually reside in the higher price categories, but not always. It took two years for Florijn to develop its first, and currently only, model. A diver by name, but a desk diver in reality. That is actually a compliment because most diver watches are built to withstand rough seas, and depths even a nuclear submarine wouldn’t dare to go, yet the closest they ever get to water is when their owner washes their hands. 45
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The Florijn is not such a watch. It can most certainly stand its ground amongst the elite of diver’s watches, but chooses not to. Instead it focusses on being an all-round desk diver: an everyday companion that isn’t afraid of water, or pretty much anything else, that traded its diving bezel for one with a handy second time zone so it feels at home even when you are abroad. The two years of development most certainly paid off, and it seems that few expenses were spared. The bezel has almost zero play, and turns smoothly when your fingers automatically grab the indents. The design of the bezel might not be to everybody's taste, but people who do should pay little attention to that. It gives the Florijn a nice dose of character and that is actually a rarity in this genre of watches, because if there is ever a type of watch where most of them look pretty much the same it is with diver’s watches. The same goes for the date loupe at six o’clock. Florijn offers the option to have it removed, which makes the date actually easier to read, but also removes part of the expression of the watch as though it were treated with botox. The Florijn is built like a bathyscaph that would make Jacques Cousteau proud. Insides ticks Seiko’s caliber NH 35, a reliable choice that features a quick-set date, as well as the option to manually wind it. Also its service cost will never break the bank. With a diameter of 45mm it is a generous sized watch, but somehow it doesn’t feel too large. 46
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The proportions are right and the thick lugs actually make the strap seem much smaller than the 24mm it really is. The whole watch breathes an atmosphere of quality. Some of this quality is obvious: the precision milled steel case, robust screw-down back, and sapphire crystal, but some are not. The dial is pleasant to look at, but it might take a moment to realize why: the length of each hand is just right. Sounds like a given, but most brands, especially micro-brands, either don’t pay sufficient atten-tion to this, or don’t want to invest in it. Combine this with little details like the brand’s logo en-graved in the crown, a date wheel whose background is actually the same color as the dial, and even a clasp that features an engraved logo, and you simply have a watch that offers the whole package. That package comes by the way with a goodie bag, because the Florijn is delivered in a branded box that contains next to the watch, a leather strap, a rubber strap and a black and red Nato-strap, and a tool to change them around. The buckles are all engraved with the Florijn name or logo, except for the Natostrap, but there the hardware matches the color of the case.
Florijn Twee has a stainless steel case and a black DLC coated bezel, and the Florijn Drie has received a full black DLC coating. The fact that Florijn choose the much harder and scratch-proof DLC over the more common PVD treatment again shows dedication to quality. Not many people will be able to enjoy that quality by the way, because each version of the Florijn is limited to only 100 pieces, making them more rare than a McLaren P1. The price is probably less than what you’d be charged for washing a McLaren P1: 395 euros (VAT included) for the stainless steel model and the stainless steel model with DLC bezel, and 425 euros for the full DLC model, and for that amount of money it feels like you’re getting a mili-tary-grade submarine for the price of an inflatable rubber boat.
Florijn of-fers three versions of its watch and being a Dutch brand, they named them Een, Twee and Drie (one, two and three in Dutch). The Florijn Een has a stainless steel case with a stainless steel bezel, the
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Tissot
Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80: Being classy on a budget
Aesthetically very pleasant, with a really efficient movement and offered at an extremely competi-tive price. . .
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Tissot is a brand that has distinguished itself with an amazing catalog with a staggering amount of references, in which we find sports watches, vintageinspired watches, classic dress watches, the famed T-touch watches, and the Seastar diving watches.
Those Tissot sports watches all have quite a distinctive design and are sometimes very colorful, but the Swiss brand also knows how to create more classic and sober timepieces. The "Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80" is a good example, because it combines all the ingredients which make this piece the perfect contemporary classic accessory. This watch tells much of the history of the Swiss brand. Indeed, it owes its name to a street in Le Locle, Switzerland, where the Tissot factory was installed in 1907, and which still continues its activi-ty: a tribute to many years of expertise which focuses on contemporary design in a 42mm elegant stainless steel case. With this watch, Tissot proves that offering a luxury watch at a low price is pos-sible. When we look at the finish of this piece, we see alternate brilliantly satin surfaces on the case and polished surfaces on the bezel and the crown. The small lugs that make this watch perfectly weara-ble play with its top and side surfaces of satin and polished bevelled edges. On the dial, we find ourselves facing something very sober, yet the sunburst treatment plays with the light nicely, adding extra character. It is finished with polished baton indexes and Arabic numer-als that provide a very good readability. The most interesting thing, for a piece at this price, is the movement that drives it. Indeed, this “Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80� is produced with the highly reliable caliber Powermatic 80.111 which is a derivative of the ETA C07.111. The main differ-ence between these two calibers is the power reserve. Indeed, we are pleased to find an 80h power reserve in this timepiece.
MEN’S SECTION CONTENTS New Tissot chemin des tourelles
The effectiveness of this movement was achieved, not by multiplying the number of barrels, but thanks to an escapement created in "low friction� synthetic material. It passes then at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour, in contrast to the classical ETA 2824 which has a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. This lower frequency enables it to consume less power. To further increase the accuracy of this movement, the "Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80" is equipped with a stop seconds, so it can be set at exactly the right time.
The movement can be seen on the caseback thanks to a sapphire glass that gives you the opportunity to see the great finish of the rotor. Aesthetically very pleasant, with a really efficient movement and offered at an extremely competitive price, Tissot once again provides us with a classy watch for a most modest price, making the "Chemin des Tourelles Powermatic 80" a watch with an amazing quality that will appeal to fans of dress watches.
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I N T ER V I E W
Stuckx Stephan Trimbos Founder
Known for its bold designs, Stuckx has received quite some traction, and attention, in the watch world. Especially from a micro brand, it is a more than remarkable achievement. We talked with Stephan Trimbos, the brand’s founder, about how this all happened. - Stuckx has become quite a success in a short period of time. What do you think is the secret? I do not think there are secrets really. I have been involved in watch sales and like to think I know the target audience for our watches relatively well (learning continues). That’s always a good starting point for any brand or business. But foremost, it was important that the products really fit my own style and beliefs about how watches should look and feel. It takes lots of energy building a watch brand, so you better like what you do. It sometimes was tough to stick to the principles we embedded in the designs. Basically, Stuckx is trying to make watches that have a really high quality feel at moderate prices. It takes lots of effort to get that right. It also took some guts to continue with not-so-ordinary designs against the stream of averageness that is flooding the watch market nowadays. Already long ago we found out that if you ask too many customers for their opinion, the mix always would be the same diver watch that looks like a cross between the well-known icons in the watch world. Just a lot cheaper. We decided we simply would make designs that were truly ours, to follow our own path in the hopes that people would like it. We understood that we cannot and should not aim to please all. - Quality costs money, yet you somehow need to balance this all when trying to keep a watch affordable. How do you deal with this?
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I work together with a very experienced designer and product engineer. Experience is required to pull it off really. Nothing beats mistakes made in the past as the basis for new product developments in the watch world. The initial watch design already should incorporate all those lessons learned. Suppliers generally will come up with tried and tested methods that are cheap to execute so they can optimize profit.
MEN’S SECTION That, combined with good designs and personal service should do the job. It is all we have really. ;-)
I am still not sure whether this will be enough to survive the competition game though. We not only compete with big brands, but also with a huge flow of new micro brands, many of them that use catalogue parts unlike Stuckx and use blahblah marketing stories The fact that we mainly sell directly to final customer on crowd funding sites to sell off Alibaba watch offers means we can balance our sales cost as well. It is our with a re-printed dial as “modern minimalistic watch” goal that customers feel they got more than expected or worse. I hope there will be a shake out of some sorts both in terms of quality and total buying experience. so customers can better distinguish the value adding brands versus copycats and money seekers. - You have been able to give Stuckx really a unique look and feel. What are for you typical Stuckx features in a You probably notice I am frustrated by this watch? development. Somehow, I really hate seeing “brands” like that operate without any inhibition to catch the Simply put: 70’s boldness, color, 3D elements that money from less-bullshit-aware customers. But let’s catch the light on the dial. If it doesn't have that, it is not go there and focus on the good stuff haha. not a Stuckx. - The RocK made quite an impression, and is really a - What do you consider the most challenging aspect of unique watch. What is in the cards for the next Stuckx? starting a watch brand? Yes, that RocK is quite a beast. Made as a love project, Haha, there are various “aspects" that spring to mind. it got us noticed with good impact. Everyone has an Time and money invested versus profit for sure is opinion about the RocK, exactly as we intended. A one of them. It is hard to create something that gets classic "love or hate" product. A non-compromise noticed, that earns the trust from customers, and that design. It really didn’t change more than 3% from the will finally pay for all the efforts put in. initial renders. We wanted to keep that one as unique Secondly, it requires guts to stick to your guiding and strong as possible. principles and choices made, once taken outside your We now first will have the Bullhead models that were head to the public. The harshness of some comments the stars of our Kickstarter campaign last August. posted on Facebook and watch forums can be quite We are very close to delivering those right now. We disheartening at times. It takes guts and a thick skin are very proud that this will be the first real release to create something you believe in. of the NE-88 Seiko/TMI chronograph movement - As a small brand you often compete with the big by a micro brand. Our cooperation with Seiko/TMI brands for the same customer who can only spend its really has been amazing. It partly is because of their flexibility and support that we have been able to money once. How do you go about this? develop the Bull models in a modular way with two There is no way we can compete on advertising, movements: the VK series mega-quartz movements promotional marketing spend, sponsor deals, trade and the automatic chronograph with column wheel. show presence or dealer network. So we do what we A real challenge considering our production volume. can do as relatively small fish in the watch pond of brands: being honest, relying on our customer service Time and resources do not allow a fixed product skills, our designs and value for money. We are rather plan right now. It is "opportunity-based" one could sure that we have an offering that can compete with say. We have many concepts developed and ready for “big brands” when looking at our products and service. deployment to the next step. Both the “Driver" and the "Infinite 8" models are high on that list. But first Our prices are fair. We work hard and do most of it we need to make a success of the Bull models and unaided or with just a few people on the side helping ensure that all people who pledged our Kickstarter out in specialized jobs. That reduces our overhead campaign will get their pledge reward. Let’s first put a costs so we can have a very reasonable price to our smile on those faces before taking the next step. customers. 51
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If you have experience in your team, you can actually point them to using the correct production methods for the design and quality levels you desire. We often handpick the part suppliers depending on the required quality/finish level. There are no corners to cut. All details need consideration. And you need to have the right supplier for each and every job.
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It is quite impressive when a brand has already created a clear brand identity in only two mod-els, especially when the brand we are talking about is also a so-called microbrand.
Stuckx; The
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Rock and the Bull
But Stuckx has done just that. One of the first watch brands to ride the wave of Kickstarter, they made quite a first impression with their Rock. Seemingly coming straight out of a comic book, it does not make any sense. It redefines in every way, shape and form the category of diver’s watches. It is unlike anything out there, and anything out there is unlike the Rock. Imagine your wrist as a smooth, sandy sea bottom; the Rock would be a boulder that plunged into this serene landscape—out of place, and because of that, just right. Stuckx uses the height of 21mm to its ad-vantage, with a 6mm thick AR-coated sapphire crystal and a 4mm thick screw in the case back, with ETA’s workhorse caliber 2824 in between and of course the dial. That dial has sever-al layers, and the lowest level is quite a distance removed from the sapphire crystal. This only enhances the experience that you have something out of this world on your wrist.
Keen observers will notice the two helium escape valves on the side of the case. Is the Rock so large that is needs two of them? Of course not, but they are just there because they can, and secretly as a tease to other diver’s watches that have just one. Most people will never reach the depth a watch's water resistance is rated to, and the same goes for helium escape valves. Ironically the Rock is quite comfortable to wear. The titanium case follows your wrist and the strap is located almost as low as it can go. This settles the Rock firmly on your wrist, and stabi-lizes the height. This will probably be the highest watch you will ever wear. Don’t bother trying to tuck it under a shirt, sweater or even a coat. Just let it stick out, soak up all the attention and en-joy an out-of-the-ordinary watch made by an outof-the-ordinary watch brand.
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the Rock Yell
the Rock Pepsi
Mechanical watch lovers will probably enjoy the third version, that has the sub-dials at twelve and six o’clock and is powered by the automatic Seiko caliber NE-88.
Out-of-the-ordinary is also their second model called The Bull, a chronograph with the crown and buttons located at 12 o’clock. They are often referred to as “bullhead chronographs” be-cause of this. This type of chronograph was briefly popular in the late 1960’s and 1970’s, but has always had its share of followers. Stuckx brought the bullhead chronograph back, yet with a style of their own. The case is shaped like a horse shoe, with the dial and bezel at an angle to improve legibility when you use it. The ceramic bezel is quite eye-catching, only showing five minute increments and an orange triangle marking 12 o’clock. The Bull is available with two sub-dials (and date) or three sub-dials (without a date), powered by a mecha-quartz movement by Seiko. The great advantage of this movement is that it combines quartz precision with a smooth running chronograph hand. Mechanical watch lovers will probably enjoy the third version, that has the sub-dials at twelve and six o’clock and is powered by the automatic Seiko caliber NE-88. This chronograph movement has all the goodies in store chronograph aficionados dream about, like a vertical clutch and a column wheel to control the chronograph functions, and that is out-of-the-ordinary for many microbrands, yet so typical Stuckx! 53
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watches To Explore
the World
The world has turned into a global village, and traveling between continents has become as easy and common as traveling to another city. But which watch to choose to accompany you on your global explorations? Watchisthis?! selected six watches that
will keep you on time, no matter where in the world you are!
watc Christopher Ward C9 Worldtimer - £1,095
LÜM-TEC Combat B33 GMT -
Almost too cool for school! The Christopher Ward C9 Worldtimer indicates the 24 timezones on the outer ring by airport codes. But the real treat is that a little red dot on the dial indicates which timezone is selected. This complication is based on ETA’s 2893 automatic movement, and for a little over 1,000 Pounds Sterling, a worldwide bargain.
Hate to be left in the dark? The MDV® Luminous technology, in old radium tone, will ensure that you can check the time as easily at night as by day. Powered by a Ronda quartz movement, this aviation-inspired watch loves to get around, and with a water resistance of 200 meters it doesn’t even mind diving in head first!
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$495
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Oris Big Crown ProPilot GMT -
2,050 euros
Within the Oris collection, the Big Crown has been a staple for decades. Crafted for pilots, this watch clearly has an aviation pedigree, where it combines vintage with new style elements. By keeping the GMT-hand black, with only the point painted orange, the watch looks clean and easy to read. The ideal choice for world travelers who want a a good looking yet robust watch around their wrist when they take off !
Tissot Heritage Navigator -
1,450 euros
A blast from the past: to celebrate its 160th anniversary Tissot decided to introduce an updated version of its famed Navigator. 43mm in diameter, but pleasantly slender, it doesn’t make a dif-ference where in the world you are, because the Tissot shows all 24 timezones at once. The automatic movement is actually Chronometer-certified, so you will be on time anywhere around the globe.
ches Citizen Nighthawk -
$395
Powered by light, the Nighthawk is also a solarpowered watch, combining quartz precision with a technology that ensures you never run out of juice (unless you go caving for a month or so). A second timezone is cleverly integrated at the center of the dial, distinguishing between day and night. The slide rule bezel will soon become your best friend while traveling because it allows you to convert miles into kilometers easily, or even calculate currency conversions, and you will use it more often than you think!
Seiko Astron - $2,100
Love to travel but hate the fuss? The Seiko Astron ensures that you always have the right time, any time! The time is GPS controlled and will automatically adjust to the current timezone no matter where you are. Because it runs on solar power, there will never be the need to find a watch repair shop while exploring the Amazon because of a dead battery. It even keeps the cor-rect day and date until the year 2100, so the only thing you have to worry about is where to go to next! 55
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Luminous materials have always been a hot topic when it comes to watches, but LÜM-TEC actually built its whole brand around a technology that provides improved luminous performance. And this
high-tech was not developed in a shrine-like Japanese factory, or a manufacturer high in the Swiss Alps, but in Mentor, Ohio. We talked to Chris Wiegand, President of LÜM-TEC, about the story behind his brand, and its MDV technology:
INTERVIEW
LÜM-TEC
Chris
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LÜM-TEC actually comes forth from your original company Wiegand Custom Watch, LLC, for which you make watches for other brands. What in your opinion is essential for making a good, affordable watch? To us it’s all about original designs, and in engineering every single component from the highest grade materials and to the absolute closest tolerances possible, while accepting only the highest level of finishing. These qualities are seen on all of the high-end watches on the market but not so much in the $500-$1,000 bracket. The difference is many high-end watches normally have special in-house-built movements, which are extremely expensive to manufacture and develop. To make a watch affordable there are many solid, reliable and accurate proven movements on the market that can be used to keep the cost affordable for most. The right watchmakers can fine-tune many of these movements to rival the accuracy of watches costing ten times the price. We expend a lot of effort in this area, modifying or adjusting the movements to reach the absolute top accuracy possible while it’s installed in a finished watch. Even the weight of the tiny hands can affect the accuracy of the movement so its important to tune them fully assembled. While many brands just use the automatic movements off the shelf and accept the common +/-25~35 seconds/day accuracy, we are finetuning every one of them to perform at +/-1~5 seconds/day in six positions. This extra attention to detail is extremely important and something we really take pride in, and these details are what we believe make a great, affordable watch.
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You developed and patented the Maximum Darkness Recently the FTC has spoken out about “US-made Visibility, or MDV, technology. What made you do this? watches". LÜM-TEC correctly identifies its watches with "Complete assembly in Ohio", which makes I started out in this business by building custom dials you fully compliant with FTC-regulations. Would and reluming watches, maximizing the po-tential pursuing an American-made watch be something for of the Super-Luminova materials. Through a ton LÜM-TEC? of experimenting, we found a way to use the same material but get two- to three times the output from Right now I feel it’s not entirely possible to actually it. This application process was trademarked as MDV build a watch that can meet the “Made in USA” Technology®. Over the years, we have continuously requirements, meet our quality standards and stay developed our lumi-nous application and now on in a reasonable price range. The re-quirements here many models we use 3D MDV technology that has are MUCH more strict than “Swiss Made”. To upped the ante with three- to four times more layers claim “Made in USA” we need to manufacture the movement, dial, hands, case, movement holder, screws, of luminous material. gaskets, crowns, etc. We can use a Swiss oil for the What is the secret behind the MDV technology? jewels possibly but that’s about it! We use different It’s a process designed to allow all of the light to be top compo-nent manufacturers for each part. Some captured by the luminous material, and all of the shops can make an amazing case but will use a sublight released from the luminous material is released par crown or poor internal finishing, etc. We choose forward only, not absorbed through its base like a the right makers for each part that we know will typical application. We also use a custom higher follow our high level of tolerance. We do a lot of our grade of Super-Luminova and apply it with our own own machining and finishing as well as movement custom-made equipment. Many are done by hand modification, platings, coatings and we do all the design and assembling, testing, tun-ing and service in even. the USA, but we are still far from being able to use In the LÜM-TEC collection, you combine quartz with the “Made in USA” mark. If there were a good range mechanical movements. Do you see a specific preference of movements that were actually made here then it from customers for one or the other? would be much more attainable, but for now we are It’s always been about 65% sales for quartz but about happy with the way we do it—top quality parts from 50/50 in terms of sales dollars. “Watch guys” tend to around the globe finished, perfected and assembled in go more for our automatic models while the general our own Ohio facility. public tends not to have a preference and generally goes for our lower-priced quartz models. Of which aspect of your company are you most proud? For sure our luminous tech but really we are proud of the fact that we have kept to our original plan of taking care of every customer and going the extra mile to make sure everyone is happy with the product and our customer service. I am also proud that over the years we have very successfully expanded our parent company into OEM production of watches and components for over forty brands. To me that says we are doing a great job when other brands call on us for a top quality product.
Which watch are you wearing yourself and why?
I have well over a hundred LÜM-TEC watches and many custom watches I’ve built over the years. Every day I grab something different. Lately I have been wearing our RR series and Combat B series quite a bit. They are both super comfortable and man, the Combat B series can take a beating! Many times I purposely put them to the test and they never miss a beat. I like that confidence, the lightweight and the comfort on the wrist. I switch them up depending on what I’m wearing, where I’m going, etc. Some days I will swap watches three to four times! 57
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Lüm-Tec has quite a broad collection, where different models offer different looks, yet all have that familiar LümTec feel to them. In such a collection it is hard to choose favorites, yet that didn’t stop us from picking one, and we went for the Abyss 400M.
Lüm-Tec ABYSS 400M; ALL-ROUNDER WITH CHARACTER
Lum-Tec 400m
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With a diameter of 42mm, the Abyss 400M is not even that large, and in line with other popular sports watches. Despite a water resistance rating of 400 meters/1312 feet, it is not a hardcore diver’s watch. For that it needs a diver’s bezel, which the Abyss is lacking. Instead Lüm-Tec chose a slope bezel that looks a bit like the barrel of a cannon—visually a nice choice because it really puts a focus on the dial, while keeping the case interesting. Another part of the watch that plays a role in this is the lugs. Screwed to the top and bottom of the case, they add to the technical look of the watch, as a beautiful piece of hardcore machinery. The bar that holds the strap is also screwed into the lugs for added security.
Lum-Tec 400m
Lüm-Tec chose to fit the Abyss 400M with a large, but not very thick, crown. That is something more brands should do, because time setting is still a breeze but you have much less of a crown to dig into your flesh when you wear the watch while playing sports or enjoying the great outdoors. That is also the appeal of the Abyss 400M; it might not be a specialized watch, but it is a great allrounder for the more active individuals. And those people probably most enjoy the fact that the Abyss has a character of its own. 59
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The Abyss 400M might in many ways be an example of what Lüm-Tec is really all about. This starts of course with the brand’s Maximum Darkness Visibility technology. Big, bold numerals give plenty of room for the eight layers of Super-Luminova that Lüm-Tec applies to them. The oversized sword hands not only fit the theme of the watch, but also contribute to the readability. The same can be said of the numerals, which have a stenciled look to them. The dial actually has two layers, with part of the minute track located at a lower level—a small touch that really gives the dial much more character. That character can be compared to a more serious super-hero. The Abyss 400M makes a bold statement, especially with its hands, but it stays just shy of being over the top.
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DM 1936 Air Force Regulateur:
EYECATCHING! It is rather strange, but when you give each hand of a watch its own dial, reading the exact time becomes a lot easier. However, watches that do so are quite a rarity, especially those with an affordable price tag. The most common reason behind this is that you need to modify the movement to place the hour hand to a 12 o’clock position. The DM 1936 Air Force Regulateur is however one of those rare birds, and with a price of US$445, is quite affordable.
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It features a manual wind caliber 9372 movement. In essence, this Chinese-made movement is very similar to the famed Unitas caliber 6498, right down to its reliability. DM 1936 had the movement modified to become a regulateur, and placed it in an imposing 47mm case. It is however not the case that will draw the most attention, it’s the dial! Readability is a key element of any regulateur, and by using white hands and white hour and minute markers, the minutes can be read with great precision. It is however the background on which they are placed that makes this watch a true eye-catcher. It has a rich, velvety, deep blue color, that under certain light con-ditions seems to have a purple hue in it. That same light also plays with the sub dials, which are silver, with an engine-turned motive. Although they feature black numerals and indices, the hands on these sub dials are white as well. A bit more difficult to read, but only because it is so easy to get distracted by the rainbow of colors that bounce off the light reflection of the silver subdials.
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That trade-off set aside, the Natostrap is a perfect match for the watch, especially since the fabric used seems to be more supple and soft than most. This makes the DM 1936 Air Force Regulateur a comfortable watch to wear, a watch that will be an eye-catcher not only for the people around you, but for you as well.
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Despite its generous size, the Air Force Regulateur sit surprisingly well on the wrist. DM 1936 has been able to keep the weight down, and has used very short lugs. Combine this with the Nato-strap the watch is fitted with, and even those with a modest wrist can enjoy this watch in comfort. The Nato-strap comes with matted metal loops and buckle that match the finish of the case. The only pity it that the Nato-strap also obscures the view of the movement, as it runs over the glass back. No so much a problem with a bare and unfinished movement, but the ver-sion in this DM 1936 has a very nice finish and should be visible.
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L ADIES’ SECTION - NEWS
Longines La Grande Classique Longines have added a sense of refinement to their Grande Classique. Now their dials come in a stunning mother-of-pearl marquetry. The steel case comes in a diameter of 24mm or 29mm, with or without diamonds. Available in blue, pink or different shades of white, they really give a contemporary and feminine touch to a great classic! www.Longines.com
Claude Bernard Lady Mini Turquoise Start Spring with a dash of color! Claude Bernard presented the Lady Mini at the Baselworld watch fair with a turquoise dial. This 24mm watch might be small, but has a lot of personality thanks to the sun-dial pattern on the dial. A highprecision quartz movement makes sure that you will be on time, and when the sun reflects on the stones set on the bezel, you know it is time go outside and enjoy the Springtime! www.claudebernard.ch
Meistersinger Phanero Strictly speaking, Meistersinger’s smallest single hand watch is not a ladies watch, and can be enjoyed by both sexes. However, with a diameter of 35mm and quite a variety of colorful dials to choose from, it is the perfect companion for the upcoming season, and a great excuse to find some matching outfits. Our favorite is the grey sun-ray dial with red numerals, not least because of the grey velour strap. www.meistersinger.de
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Jacob Jensen Smart Bracelet Smart watches are so handy, but often don’t look the best. Jacob Jensen changes this with the HALO smart bracelet. Waterproof and with a battery that lasts more than four weeks when fully charged, the cover can be changed to match your outfit and even converted to a brooch and necklace. Next to operating your camera, phone and music, it also has a special function that allows you to send a distress alert to pre-selected contacts, making this piece of jewelry look good on you, and look out for you! https://jacobjensendesign.com/
Bering Polar Bear Limited edition Being a brand that draws its inspiration from the arctic, Bering feel particularly close to the wild-life in the region. Since 2011 they have supported organizations that look out for the polar bears. For this year, they have created a limited edition watch in high-tech ceramic, featuring a dia-mond at twelve o’clock. For each watch sold they donate US$15 to Polar Bears International. http://www.beringtime. com/en-us/ and http://www.polarbearsinternational.org/
Saint Honoré Tour Eiffel You can now wear one of the most iconic landmarks in the world around your wrist! Saint Honoré introduces the new Tour Eiffel. Powered by an automatic movement, this 38mm watch combines contemporary elegance with some distinct elements that will immediately put you in a Parisian mood. This is not only limited to the face of the watch, but the osculating weight and the buckle are also decorated in theme. A certificate signed by the Eiffel Tower Committee guaran-tees that your watch has a piece of the “Iron Lady of France” in it. http://en.sainthonore.com
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Watchisthis?! had the pleasure of catching up with Alain Zimmermann, CEO of Baume et Mercier, and were able to discuss with him the brand’s past, present and future of ladies’ watches. INTERVIEW
ALAIN
ZIMMERMANN CEO of Baume et Mercier
Ladies’ watches have always been part of the DNA of Baume et Mercier. How important is this heritage for the brand, and how does it influence current watches?
The Promesse has become a great success in a very short period of time. What do you think is the key to this success?
Ladies’ watches are a very important part of Baume et Mercier. One of the company’s founders, LouisVictor Baume, already gifted his daughter a golden pocket watch in 1869. This was quite progressive since in those days it was not common for a lady of her standing to have a watch. It became an even more tangible part of the company when they joined forces with Paul Mercier in 1918. Mercier was a businessman, an artist, who grew up in a very feminine environment because his father died at a very young age, leaving Mercier to be raised by his mother together with his sisters. He thought it was very important to create watches dedicated to ladies, not just smaller men’s watches, and that is what we still do today.
I think it is a sum of various important criteria. When you design a ladies’ watch, you need to be able to capture the essence of a decade. It should not be a fashion watch, but it should fit in with fashion. The problem is that you don’t know if you are right, since a watch collection takes two years to develop. There are a lot of important aspects to it; the colors you use, the materials, the way you wear the watch on your wrist, but also the strap or bracelet itself. For a woman, a watch is also a piece of jewellery, everything needs to fit together and form a beautiful timepiece.
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Ladies’ watches have always been more fashiondriven than men's watches, yet Baume et Mercier is not a fashion brand. How does it balance these two aspects to create a more time-less watch? If you want to create a classical watch, you can simply copy something that has already been done. But to contribute something substantial to the industry, to your customers, you need to innovate.
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Promesse
Mintrou Bijou bracelet
Fashion designers sometimes have six shows a year; you cannot follow that as a watch manufacturer, because the more you use certain trends, the faster a watch will lose its attraction as the trends fade away. So we don’t follow pure fashion, but we do try to stay con-temporary with our ladies’ watches. Some people say ladies prefer quartz watches, while others say that they are becoming more and more interested in mechanical movements. What is your experience with this? A watch has always been a strong accessory for a lady, so offering choice is important. In the last three to five years we’ve seen an increase in the demand for ladies’ watches, mainly in Asia. This is actually because in Asia 90% of the ladies’ watches are bought by men who gift them to the important ladies in their lives. We have been showing men for quite some time now the appeal of mechanical watches, so when they buy a ladies' watch they want this as well. Even in our other markets we see that ladies prefer mechanical watches more and more. However, even more important to ladies is how the watch looks. They prefer a good looking watch, and thickness is an important factor, so sometimes they pick a quartz watch because it is visu-ally more attractive. Currently the percentage quartz vs mechanical watches in the ladies’ collection of Baume et Mercier is close to 50/50 percent. Some watches like the Promesse 22mm we only offer in quartz, since there is no mechanical movement available that suits our stand-ards, and a mechanical movement also needs a crown, which needs to be large enough to be able to wind and set the watch, which would look very unattractive.
Baignoire bracelet enhuit
At the past SIHH, Baume et Mercier expanded the Promesse collection even further. In what direction will you take the brand's ladies’ watches next? A watch is all about celebration—many people gift or purchase one to mark a special occasion. You also wear it on your skin, so it is a very personal item. Baume et Mercier is today still very much men-driven, but we would like to grow to 50/50 percent men and women’s watches in the collection. For this we want to focus on the younger women. They tend to look at things differently, so we need to change our communication approach. We will do this with the Promesse, and possibly later with a new model. This is a neverending cycle of renewal, but not every three months, because we are not a fashion brand. Our mission is to inspire, to be a gateway brand that initiates people into the world of amazing watches. We operate at the price point where people start calling products real watches. That is why comfort is the key at Baume et Mercier. Vis-ual comfort; a well designed, good looking product; financial comfort; a high quality product yet at an obtainable price, and future comfort; your watch can always be repaired. Because to many of our clients we are their first or even their only quality watch, we cannot compromise because we cannot disappoint, and that will bring us to the next 185 years.
Vignette Galaxie
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little Promise that is not
The story of a
so small…
BY MARINE SCHNEIDER
To start 2016 with good news, Baume et Mercier introduced at the Salon International Haute Horlogerie this past January its new collection of the Petite Promesse. These elegant and refreshing timepieces are inspired by the 20’s and allow ultimate refinement with their 22 mm diameter.
The Petite Promesse comes in three versions and with straps and bracelets, which are long enough to allow a double twist on the wrist. One is a bright orange calf leather, another electric blue and the third is steel. Very chic! Baume et Mercier decided to satisfy women with these jewel watches, which are easy to mix with a chic outfit. It’s a real style asset, or even more, an « attitude » as Sandrine Donguy, Marketing Director for Baume et Mercier, likes to say. The idea was to create a peppy, sparkling and refreshing line for the Promesse collection, which originally launched in 2014. Simplicity is a key word: no superfluous complication, just a pure watch, the height of style. The dials are crafted from mother of pearl, set with two diamonds at 12 and 6 hours as unique numerals. Each watch has its own type of refinement, from glamour to contemporary. The colors of the bracelets are ultra modern which combine surprisingly well with the dials. The cases are smooth and rounded, an oval within the center of the circle of the dial. Regarding those cases, there are many different ones: either partly set with diamonds, or totally (twenty-two or forty-four diamonds). These watches are composed by a duality between classism and modernity, ex-plaining why they are so popular! 66
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Balmain Classica Lady Auto 25th:
PASSION FOR FASHION BY SHAINEZ DAHOU
The house Balmain is known for its fashion creations which are more than spectacular. It’s with this big Fashion House that we venture into its creations of watch-making.
Expect to be surprised by the beautiful pieces which the Balmain watch brand has created for us, ladies! The watch that has caught our attention is the Classica Lady Auto 25th. Discreet elegance is revealed by the Classica Lady Auto 25th, balancing timeless design and the technical blast of its movement that powers the watch through the motions of our wrist. The fashion house knows indeed how to transcribe the same artistic talent into these watches which we find really very elegant. Each of the house’s watches tells us a story of its own. With an automatic Swiss-made movement, The Balmain Classica Lady Auto 25th possesses a stylish stainless steel bracelet and case, as well as a silver dial adorned with a total 0.24 cts dia-monds.
On the dial, a part of the movement is visible with an open heart technique at 12.00. Let’s enjoy a glimpse of the heart of the mechanism! The backcase of the watch is in Sapphire glass for us to continue admiring the movement. What a marvel! Balmain watches are made for romantic, mysterious women who enjoy lots of inspiration. With its unique and bespoke design, this timepiece embodies the chic of Couture. Why do we like it so much? You can wear it at any time of the day, for any event. Day and night, it complements our outfit perfectly, with delicacy and edginess. 67
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SESAME SHRIMP LETTUCE WRAPS BY NATURALVROUW
These Asian-inspired Shrimp Lettuce Wraps make for a quick and simple appetizer, side dish, or even a light lunch that can be made the night before, and are a great way to satisfy almost any appetite.
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RECIPE Serves: 2 Preparation Time: 20 minutes INGREDIENTS: • 1 to 2 Teaspoons Sesame Oil • ¼ Cup Raw Diced Red Sweet Bell Pepper • 1 Teaspoon Fresh Garlic, grated or minced • 2 Teaspoons Minced Fresh Ginger • 1 Cup Precooked Mini (or Large Diced) Cocktail Shrimp • ¼ Cup Diced Green Onion, tops and bottoms • +/ ½ Teaspoon Sea Salt • 6 Large Butter Lettuce Leaves • 1 Tablespoon Toasted Sesame Seeds
DIRECTIONS: In a cool sauté pan, add one teaspoon of sesame oil* along with the red bell pep-per, ginger and garlic. Allow this to sweat on low heat (without browning), for ap-proximately** ten to fifteen minutes. Add the precooked shrimp only, allowing them to warm through as well as ½ teaspoon sea salt, or to taste. Finally, stir in the green onion. Spoon the shrimp filling into the lettuce leaves. Sprinkle over the toasted sesame seeds to finish. Serve warm or cold. *The more sesame oil you use, the more distinct the flavor. If you are using large diced cocktail shrimp, you’ll want to use more sesame oil to enhance the flavor. **It is important to fully cook the garlic so that your final dish is not too sharp and bitter.
The lettuce wraps are the perfect way to get into the mood for spring: light, crunchy let-tuce with the bite of shrimp. Healthy and tasty in one, simple dish. A watch to match is the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 9 Lady. Introduced in 2014, it is an elegant watch with a bite. Rugged enough for everyday use, and elegant enough for any occasion, it com-bines a steel case with a white mother-of-pearl dial. Inside the 28mm case ticks an au-tomatic caliber, making this watch a contemporary companion for a woman whose looks are more than skin deep. Follow @ https://www.youtube.com/NaturalVrouw https://www.instagram.com/NaturalVrouw https://www.facebook.com/NaturalVrouw 69
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The Look
The end of winter, the beginning of spring, how should we dress? We focus on clothes and accessories that will quickly become essential for this season. BY BÉNÉDICTE LE BIHAN
Tissot Luxury Jungfraubahn Automatic Lady
Givenchy Lipstick Rouge Interdit
For this special edition launched in partnership with Jungfraubahn, Tissot reveals a new version of its Automatic Lady. The watch is reminiscent of the sublime and delicate snowy mountain peaks, while flipped over, its owner can also admire the incredible Powermatic 80 movement.
Givenchy introduces its red lipstick from the Vinyl Collection, which is more than a basic lipstick! Rich in pigments, it will adorn your lips with radiant color and is long-lasting in one pass. Thanks to its elegant packaging, you’ll want to take it anywhere!
Lancel Charlie Handbag This handbag will become the new fashion statement for the season. In full grain buf-falo leather, it gives a chic style to your outfit thanks to its shape and subtle details. Inspired by the Parisian style and made with quality leather, it will be a timeless bag for your dressing room.
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Ferragamo black sandals Since 1927, this Italian footwear brand has delighted celebrities and fashionistas, offering very qualitative products to its clientele. With these black crocodile leather sandals, they give a modern twist to a fashion classic.
Comptoir des Cotonniers short trousers Very modern and classic, these short trousers make a great compromise for an elegant outfit. Perfect for a formal occasion, you could also wear it during a day’s work or a reception. Made in wool, it will be perfect for early spring.
New Look Blazer The end of winter means that jackets and blazers are back! And with this fashion piece, we can confirm that nude is the new black. Ideal to get cozy and relax during the day, this straight cut blazer by New Look combines a casual look with a touch of sophistication.
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The Look Soon the warmer Spring vibes will enter the air again—our favorite season, with Brazil in the spotlight! Here are the right clothes and accessories to be stylish and ready for the Spring BY BÉNÉDICTE LE BIHAN
Gc Rainbow Python With this exotic time-keeper, you feel Brazil. Part of the Lady Chic Collection, the Rainbow Python is available in three different executions. The colourful bracelet and bezel in python combines fashion style and elegance.
Terracotta 4 Seasons by Guerlain This tailor-made bronzing powder will be your partner before the summer. Recognized for several years, this is the secret of a radiant minerals while having a natural effect on your skin, thanks to its four tints.
Chloé Hudson Mini Bag The brand in three words: Glamorous yet casual and carefree! Chloé launch a new version of the Hudson bag in a caramel colour to give a folk look to those who carry it. An it-bag is
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American Vintage Top Galione The brand American Vintage is known for these comfortable and casual loose tops with a silky touch; this printed top with short sleeves will be a basic which you can combine for different looks.
REtro long sleeveless dress A mix of kaleidoscopic prints and energetic colors, the brand is recognized since 1980. This long sleeveless dress is made with the “Paisley”, a cashmere pattern inspired by Indian and Pakistani fabrics, the signature of the house. Perfect to step into summer with style!
Bally Climmy wedge heels On the heights of these Bally platform shoes, you will feel you have the soul of a femme fatale. In leather, the brand is offer-ing a modern version of these traditional shoes.
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HAMILTON
JAZZMASTER VIEWMATIC: the stylish skeleton BY MARINE SCHNEIDER
Let’s take a look at the Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton Lady Auto from Hamilton. Although it is not a recently launched watch, we ladies at Watchisthis?! have got a real crush on the Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton Lady Auto. Our first 74
impression was that it looks like a very precious timepiece, while in fact it remains affordable. And as a cherry on the cake… we love skeletons !
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That is a feminine watch, designed for our small wrists, and ideal if you love the complicated men watches and can’t wear them because they are so heavy and look disproportionate on your wrist. With the Viewmatic Skeleton we still get an automatic movement, Swiss-made of course, and a look that is unlike any other watch. This Hamilton is available in five versions: three with a steel bracelet, one with a leather strap and another a deep blue silk bracelet, which is the one we love the most. The case is set with sixty-eight diamonds, matching perfectly with the stainless steel and the silk strap. Sophistication reigns, because when you turn the case over, the back reveals more feminine details. Why do we like it so much ? Because of that « Wow » effect it has on everyone who sees it, including us when we wake up in the morning, get ready, and strap it on to face the day ahead of us on time and in style! We are pleased to have a watch with delicate technique on our wrist!
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Talking about skeletons—with the Hamilton the dial partially remains and is cut out in a de-sign that reminds us of petals from a beautiful flower, or bubbles in Champagne. Through them the H-20-s caliber is revealed, where you can see Hamilton’s signature H engraved all over the movement. We can also see the balance wheel turning back and forth and the gear train, and we can look straight into the main spring barrel, dramatizing this mechanical heart of the watch.
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Top 5 of the best ladies’ watches BY SHAÏNEZ DAHOU
for Spring
Gucci Horsebit Gucci takes us back to the equestrian era of Florentine high society with its watch inspired by the horse’s bit, which is also part of the most symbolic signature of the Gucci house. This symbol is now reinterpreted in a collection of women’s watches, which the house has appropriately named "Horsebit collection". The attractive curves of this watch are filled with elegant details offering a delicate refinement. The watch is made in Switzerland, has a quartz movement and is waterproof to 50m. The collection is available in two sizes—28 and 34 mm. This collection is available in several variants, each with subtle changes in the details. Some feature diamonds as hour markers, others a dial which is dressed in black mother-of-pearl or white, whichever you prefer. The thin but sturdy steel bracelet curves comfortably around your wrist, making it the perfect watch for women to combine with their daily outfits but also their evening dresses.
Maurice Lacroix Les Classiques Chronographe Phases de Lune
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The harmony of the ladies' watch,proposed by the house Maurice Lacroix comes from from his collection “Les Classiques”. This feminine Quartz watch reveals several complications, including the indication of moon phases at 6 o'clock, a chronograph with two counters and a date function at four o’clock. The watch has a pleasant balance between these complications, and presents them on the dial in an uncluttered way. The charcoal gray dial is stunning, especially with the golden hands and numerals, but Maurice Lacroix has several other varieties available including dials in silver or white lacquer. Meanwhile, the strap of this watch is available in various versions, with a choice between white or brown leather in imitation crocodile, or even a metal bracelet. This model resonates feminine elegance thanks to the smoky dark dial framed by its steel case, with a dash of class due to the golden details.
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Baume & Mercier « Classima Dressing for success is no problem with the Classima from Baume & Mercier which has been designed for the contemporary woman with a romantic heart. This watch has the night celestial body framed by eight diamond indexes. Powered by a Swiss quartz movement, it is housed in a 36.5mm steel case. The dial is actually crafted from white mother-of-pearl, with a sunray decor in the middle of the dial. The phase of the moon is represented on a midnight blue disc, decorated with a moon and stars, which accentuates the bluish reflections of the mother-of-pearl dial. This Classima by Baume & Mercier embodies the origi-nality of the brand by displaying feminine elegance with a romantic touch.
Longines Primaluna The perfect balance between refinement and classicism is a Longines signature. With the Primaluna, the brand combines elegance and timeless appearance in a single watch. With its round case and steel bracelet, its smooth shapes will accompany you gracefully through life. The blue hands offer a warm contrast against the light dial and black Roman numerals. The watch has a mechanical movement with automatic winding, providing a power reserve of forty hours, and the date function at 3 o'clock makes the Primaluna not only beautiful but also practical. This Lon-gines is really a watch that makes us dream whenever we glance over its elegant lines to check the time.
Hermès Kelly Hermès created an exceptional piece in 1975; inspired by the famous Kelly bag, the watch consists of a case shaped like a padlock, locked on to a strap. The watch itself is small and discreet, but the way it connects to the barenia calfskin is quite eye-catching! The white dial features two tiny hands, with small, golden pyramids to indicate 3, 6 and 9 o’clock and the famous Hermès H at 12 o’clock. Although three decades old, the Kelly watch is still refreshing, and the perfect compan-ion for any Spring outfit. Want to make the watch even more eye-catching? Go for the double tour strap!
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V I N TA G E S E C T I O N
There was a time when American brands like Waltham, Hamilton and Elgin crafted movements that could easily rival the best Switzerland had to offer.
Vortic: Renewing history’s finest With the best we are talking brands like IWC, Vacheron and even Patek. Combining a superb finish with a reliable design and perfect execution, it was these movements that pushed progress forward in the United States. It was these watches that made the American railroads safe and efficient, controlled the world of busi-ness and contributed to making this country a world power. The good news is that these move-ments are still around, the not-so-good news is that they were made in the late 1800’s and early 1900’s and cased as pocket watches.
Although very cool, in today’s world there are not too many occasions, or clothing, where a pocket watch really fits in. The guys at Vortic thought so too, and what they did was take those amazing movements and turn them into a wrist watch. The result is something utterly unique, featuring great contrasts. First there is the movement; these types of manual wind movements, with their elaborate decorations and finish, are still being made in Switzerland, and even used in wristwatches. The catch is that their price-tag usually generously exceeds $10,000. Vortic will not charge you nearly as much. What they do is Although many of these watches have stood the test buy these movements, give them a full service and put of time, mainly thanks to their excellent construction them in a new case. That is where the second contrast quality, they are still pocket watches. comes into play.
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When you see the case of a Vortic, it really has that vintage feel to it. The funny part is that this case is actually crafted with one of the hottest and most promising technologies currently available—3D printing. Vortic uses a lot of different calibers and each has their own requirements when it comes to a suitable case. 3D printing allows Vortic to create a case with a perfect fit for the movement, without the obligation to make hundreds of them as would be usual with a normal production run. They can make small series, control costs and with that keep the price competitive. They print the cases from stainless steel or bronze, and finish them off with a plating that amplifies the vintage feel of the watch.
Because they originally powered a pocket watch, the movements used in Vortic watches are not small. This results in watch cases that range from 47mm to 51mm. Large, but the clever case design makes them still quite wearable, even on more modestlysized wrists. Thank to the caseback you can admire the stunning movements, and Vortic uses the dials from the pocket watches to grace the top side. This is another attraction because they often feature hand painted numerals, in old style fonts. That is not the only handmade feature Vortic has to offer, because the watch box also is something special. Crafted from salvaged American walnut, they are made by a carpenter in Fort Collins, the city Vortic calls its home.
Hand packed in brown paper, its rope secured by a red wax seal, the Vortic is ready to be deliv-ered to its new owner, who can enjoy some of history’s finest movements in a new package. 79
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VORTIC INTERVIEW
Where does the name Vortic come from and what does it mean?
You use centuryold movements from great but sometimes even defunct brands. How do you deal with servicing and spare parts to ensure they keep on Vortic is a combination of “Vortex” and “Tic-Toc.” running? It stands out from the crowd, and our other option – our last names, ”Barber, Custer, & Wolfe,” sounds Great question—this is usually the first we one we get asked. A simple answer is that there are a lot like a law firm. more movements out there than we could ever use. What made you decide to craft new watches from Roughly 114 million pocket watches were made in vintage movements? the U.S. during this era, and Elgin and Waltham One of our main goals was to make this product accounted for almost 80% of them! 100% made in America. We very quickly found out With that being said, new parts are not available. that a modern, 100% Americanmade movement was So, normally we borrow parts from an identical not available for purchase. So, we started thinking movement that has been scrapped for one reason or vintage. As we learned about the history of the greats another. We have a stock pile of parts in our shop (Hamilton, Waltham, Elgin, Illinois, Ball, etc), we including hands and dials. discovered the insane quality of their pieces. As we began purchasing movements online we found For perspective, we plan to build 500 American that many were available outside of their original Artisan Series watches this year, and limit future case. This is because many of their original cases annual production to 1,000 pieces. The American had been scrapped for their precious metal value. Artisan Series embodies our brand, so as we grow When we found out that people had made pocket it will indefinitely accompany new product lines. watch conversions in the past it just confirmed what This is all just to say that we are not worried about we already knew—vintage movements were our movement and parts supply. ticket to creating that totally unique, completely Americanmade product. 80
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What is the biggest challenge when making a Vortic?
3D printing has not yet become a staple in watch manufacturing, and will not for quite a while due The hardest problem we had to solve was the setting to the inefficiency of large-scale runs. But, this and winding locking mechanism. Most antique technology is evolving rapidly, and we are pioneering pocket watches house that function within the finishing processes and printing techniques to help original case (as opposed to a modern movement), so pave the way for others to use this technology in an we had to design the mechanism in such a way that effective way in their final prod-uct (instead of just for the movement would sit in our case in the exact same prototyping). It is also satisfying and exciting to know fashion as its original case. We had to reverse-engineer that we are dealing in relatively uncharted territory. the original function, make it in a standard way, and mount that micro assembly within our cases… AND Do you have a personal favorite movement and why? make it in America. Luckily we have a master Swiss The Hamilton 992B. It is one of the most turning machinist here in Colorado, so with his help, beautiful Railroad Grade watch movement and and a lot of trial and error, we turned a weakness into dial combinations in existence, and the watch has a strength. a particularly distinguished history. I’m partial to You combine vintage movements with a technology Hamilton as I grew up in Pennsylvania, and my that is not yet in wide-spread use in the watch industry: family currently resides in Hamilton Park within 3D-printing of metal. What made you decide to go this Lancaster (walking distance from the old factory, now route and what advantages (and possible disadvantages) an apartment building unfortunately). We plan to add do you experience using this new technology? this movement to our lineup when our new lever set I studied Industrial Engineering at Penn State cases are released this year. University and had the unique opportuni-ty to work regularly with their metal 3D printers. So, I’m fairly well versed in the worlds of additive and subtractive manufacturing, and I have been forced to regularly weigh the pros and cons.
We’ve come to the conclusion that the material not only looks interesting, but it is also the only way to iterate as quickly as necessary for the Artisan Series. We are a small batch manufacturer, so the perpiece costs associated with the case are comparable to traditional manufacturing, yet we can update our designs with a click of the mouse. 3D printing can also produce shapes that are physically impossible and/or extremely difficult to achieve with traditional manufacturing methods.
You currently still use dials that feature the names of the great manufacturers of the movements. Don't you want to create a watch as well that features Vortic on the di-al?
Yes. We will be announcing something pretty awesome during BaselWorld, so keep an eye out. We believe that one has to learn where they came from before they can decide where they’re going. We got our start by learning from the greats, and we will continue to honor their accomplishments by restoring and preserving their original works as opposed to changing them. The American Artisan Series is not about us, so we wouldn’t feel comfortable putting our mark on the dial. What we make in the future will be inspired by this idea and we’ll take it to the next level. 81
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MUST DE CARTIER TANK:
TIMELESS CLASS BY GEO CRAMER
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Cartier? Isn’t that a bit over the top for such a specialized magazine as Watchisthis? Well, yes and no. While the editor likes to stick to his principle of discussing only watches in the price range below $2,500, he also realizes that many of the readers would like to know more about or even dream of owning a Cartier watch, if possible. Well that’s exactly what this story is all about and why an exception is made for this watch. The ‘Must de Cartier' Tank will be the subject of this article, a watch that was created and launched at a very affordable price to survive when the watch industry was in bad weather. It was in the nineteen seventies that, mainly from Japan, the marked was flooded with very affordable digital watches that soon became a hit, mainly among men. Cartier was at that time producing their watches just in 18K or plati-num and noticed a decline in turnover, like any other Swiss brand. The Cartier collection was, from a price point of view, no match for these new and lower-priced electronic time-pieces.
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Just the ‘Must de Cartier' logo, the double C and two gold vermeil hands. But later on, striped dials with three colors of gold, variations with fewer numerals and even a limited edition Art Deco dial were introduced. Also a very classic-looking, non-vermeil silver case Tank, with blue nu-merals, appeared on the market. But the ones that stand for this series are the one with the red or the one with the blue dial. From a technical point of view, these timepieces were pretty straightforward. Most of the pieces were delivered with a quartz caliber and a smaller part of the collection was sup-plied with a mechanical handwound ETA caliber. Even models that have the same face could have either caliber.
While these 'Must de Cartier' Tanks are very affordable in the second-hand market and are often irresistable, you need to bear in mind that these Tanks do not come trouble-free. After all those years, most of the watches we see on the market need to be replated and often a new glass is needed. Since Cartier The first ‘Must de Cartier’ Tanks were re-leased with does not support their 'Must de Cartier' line any dials in plain red, blue and one in black, without any more, you have to be prepared to do some research numerals. and find a watchmaker to help you restore the watch, if neces-sary. If these obstacles can be overcome, your Cartier Tank is within reach.
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The watch to have, and the watch Cartier has always been famous for, is the Tank Louis Cartier in 18K gold. Cartier re-alized that well and came up with a brilliant idea—to create an affordable watch that paid tribute to this particular Tank. Quite a drastic decision, since it was the first time since the beginning of 1900 that a Tank watch was built in a non precious metal, namely in silver and it had, to give it a luxurious look, a gold-plated finish. It was a damned good-looking Tank that had such a similarity with the famous Tank Louis Cartier that an outsider would not see the difference. But Cartier was of course aware of that and made sure that the dial of the watch was different from the creamy white guil-loche face of the original Tank Louis Cartier. The designers did not come up with just a different dial, they presented more than a dozen different dials and one was even more stunning than the other. Instead of picking the best one, the marketing team decided to launch them all and over a cer-tain period of time.
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V I N TA G E S E C T I O N
FIVE GOLDEN RULES FOR CARING FOR
YOUR LEATHER STRAP
BY BÉNÉDICTE LE BIHAN
A watch could be different things for you: a jewel, an heirloom passed from generation to generation, or a precious time-keeper which accompanies you daily or occasionally. It’s a product that demands attention, especially when fitted with a leather strap, so here are five golden rules to keep your strap in tip-top condition for a long time: 1. Remember that leather doesn’t like water. In fact, in contact with water, the leather watch strap will deteriorate rapidly. Therefore do not shower whilst wearing your favorite time-keeper if fitted with a leather strap, and when the summer comes and you bring your watch to the beach or swimming pool, keep your watch safe at home or in your bag. 2. Is there anything worse than water for a strap? Yes, human sweat! The minerals and natural chemicals can wreak havoc on a watch strap. During normal wear, a leather strap can easily last a few years, but when you want to work out it is best either to do it without a watch, or swap your leather strap for a rubber one or a steel bracelet. 3. If you wear your time-keeper every day, the leather of your watch strap can become a little dirty. A little paste composed of beeswax can work wonders. Just apply a little bit on the strap, and after that, let it dry and rub with a soft cloth. 4. Even if you are like “wonder woman” who can be both pretty and able to multi-task at the same time: please do not spray your favorite perfume on your wrists where you also wear your watch with leather strap. Solvents, perfumes or chemical products could harm your time-keeper’s strap. Also sunscreen will have the same effect.
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5. Is the leather of your strap cracking? Are seams coming loose, or is the inside not that fresh anymore? Just replace your leather strap for a new one. Not only will this give your watch a whole new and fresh look, it will also ensure that it stays safely on your wrist.
This is how, with five little tips, you can make the most of your beautiful leather bracelet!
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GIRARDPERREGAUX AND THE QUARTZ REVOLUTION
Owning something that has marked the beginning of a revolution is always unique. In the world of watchmaking there are many small revolutions that add something to an already existing array of complications or solutions, usually by refining it just a little more. Few radically change the industry, and one we still talk about today is the introduction of the quartz-watch! Some say that the Swiss watch industry was taken by surprise with the quartz revolution. They weren’t, in fact nobody in the watch industry was. Battery-powered watches had already been around for quite some time, like the famed Accutron from Bulova, so the next step was imminent. They prepared for this with vigor, but because it was quite outside the traditional skills needed for mechanical watchmaking, a lot of Swiss brands pulled their resources together to develop the first Swiss quartz-powered watch. Not Girard-Perregaux, they partnered with ex-perts from outside the watch industry, amongst them the Motorola corporation and Georges Vuffray, a French electronics expert who was one of the pioneers in developing the quartz clock. Girard-Perregaux’s quartz watch was the first Swiss watch of its kind to hit the market. The gold-plated model in the photos had a price tag of $320, which would be close to $2,000 today. This is also what really caused the quartz crisis in the Swiss watch industry: they weren’t late, they were only unprepared that such a precise technology could ever be offered so cheaply and in such vast quantities by the Japanese brands. Girard-Perregaux did comparatively well incidentally. They sold the movement to Favre-Leuba and Jaeger-LeCoultre, who used it in their MasterQuartz collection. Both brands had opted to wait for other Swiss brands to develop a quartz movement and buy the best one available. What made the movement by Girard-Perregaux the best was its setup. Compared to modern-day quartz watches, the movement looks enormous and is almost like comparing an old amplifier to an iPod. Yet this movement was already less complex than its competitors, plus it worked at a frequency of 32,768 Hz. This is where Girard-Perregaux truly made history, because it was generally accepted as the optimum frequency for a quartz watch to operate on, and became an industry standard.
Today these watches may be considered retro-chique, but they are also an intricate and unique part of watchmaking history that you can still wear around your wrist. Prices are pleasantly affordable yet slowly rising, since running watches in good cosmetic condition are becoming more rare. Keeping them running is a draw of the cards: they are well made, and a watchmaker can fix certain problems, but in general spare parts are very hard to find and often come from a scrapped watch. A price you pay for progress, of which this watch stood at the base. 85
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HAMILTON DECK WATCHES AND MARINE CHRONOMETERS; A history of service BY KEN MCLEAN
Since its development by John Harrison in the 18th century, the marine chronometer has been an essential tool for the navigation of seagoing vessels around the world. The marine chronometer, as a navigation tool, was only displaced very recently with the advent of GPS and navigational satellites.
Because the chronometer had to remain in one fixed location, deck watches had to be used to transfer the time from the chronometer to the deck or wherever it was needed to know the time on board a ship. The deck watches therefore had to be synchronized with the ship's chronometer daily.
In order to determine a position on the surface of the earth one needs to know the latitude and the longitude. On board a ship, the latitude was determined using a sextant to measure the angle of a celestial body in the sky, such as the sun, relative to the horizon. To determine longitude a chronometer was needed. The chronometer would be set to the time of a fixed refer-ence location such as Greenwich England (0 degrees longitude). When the navigator needed to know the longitude, he/she would first determine the local time using the position of the sun in the sky along with tables. The difference between local time and the Greenwich time, as indi-cated by on board chronometer, would then yield the longitude.
Although many brands produced Deck Watches and Marine Chronometers, they were not created equal. A special brand in this matter is Hamilton. Founded in 1892, it first began producing watches for the railroad industry. These watches were an essential tool of railroad staffers to ensure safe, smooth and efficient operation of the railways. Renowned for their precision, they were nicknamed the "Watch of Railroad Accuracy". The development of the Hamilton railroad watch culminated with the 992B produced between 1931 and 1941. With the outbreak of war Hamilton, along with other watch manufacturers, was called upon to assist in the war effort. Hamilton developed and produced timepieces for all aspects of the military, but where their impact was felt the most was the development and production of deck watches and marine chronometers. Hamilton's marine chronometer, the Model 21, is widely regarded by many horological experts to be the finest ever produced. The deck watches, largely derived from the 992B, were also some of the finest instruments made for the military.
The marine chronometer was one of the most important instruments on board a ship and had to be extremely accurate. An error of a few seconds can put a ship miles off course. The chronometer was typically mounted on brass gimbals to allow it to remain in a fixed horizontal position and housed in a wooden mahogany box for protection. It was usually fixed in one location on board the ship, most commonly in the center, to avoid the effects of rolling, pitching, and This article highlights a number of pieces from the temperature changes. Deck Watch and Marine Chronometer collection. 86
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The collection is generally restricted to pieces produced by Hamilton and issued to US, British, and Canadian Naval forces during WWII.
HAMILTON 3992B DECK WATCH ISSUED TO CANADIAN NAVY A derivative of the 992B railroad watches, the 3992B is highly prized by collectors today for its precision and rarity. Hamilton produced approximately 2500 of these, primarily for the British and Canadian Navies. This particular example is one of 312 issued to the Canadian Navy. The Canadian Navy pieces differ from their British counterparts in that the movements are housed in silver cases and have a 24 hour dial. Finding one of these today, especially with its original mahogany wooden case, is extremely difficult.
HAMILTON 3992B DECK WATCHES ISSUED TO BRITISH NAVY Pictured below are two 3992Bs issued to the British Navy. After the war, many of these watch-es were repurposed by the British Navy for NATO use. The watch on the left is shown with its original wartime dial while the one on the right is shown with the NATO conversion dial.
HAMILTON 4992B DECK WATCH ISSUED TO US NAVY Another variant of the 992B railroad watch is the 4992B, primarily issued by the US military during WWII. The vast majority of the 4992Bs were issued to the US Army Air Corp, which lat-er became the US Air Force, while a small number, cased in silver, were also issued to the US Navy as deck watches. The 4992B differs from the much rarer 3992B in that it has a 24 hour movement. The one pictured here is one of the rarer US Navy versions. 87
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HAMILTON MODEL 22 ISSUED TO CANADIAN NAVY Hamilton made two gimbalmounted chronometers: the Hamilton model 21 and model 22. The gimbal mechanism housed in a mahogany box allowed the watch to be fixed in an upright horizontal position. The smaller of the two, the model 22 which was another derivative of the 992B, was used primarily by the US and Canadian Navies during WWII. For the US Navy these chronometers, or more accurately chronometer watches, were the main reference timepieces for smaller ships, while for the Canadian Navy they were the main reference chronometer for ships of all sizes. The example pictured here is one of approximately 312 pieces issued to the Canadian Navy. As in the case of the 3992B, these Canadian Navy-issued chronometers are rare and hard to find. Of the 312 originally issued, it is unknown how many have survived. I happen to have two!
HAMILTON MODEL 21 ISSUED TO US MARITIMES COMMISSION The big brother to the Model 22, the Model 21 was the main reference timepiece on the larger US Navy and US Maritime Commission ships. These model 21s were perhaps Hamilton’s greatest accomplishment during WWII. While the design was not a breakthrough, using a Fusee escapement, the process to mass produce these at the outbreak of the war in a very short period of time to meet US military demands was legendary. The example shown here was issued to the US Maritime Commission, which had an auxiliary role to the Navy during the war.
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After Thoughts STOP COMPARING
Comparing things is probably in our DNA. To some extent it makes sense, and it helps us to survive by contemplating and picking the best available. Take a look at how people go through fruit and vegetables in a market or grocery store. But in the course of human evolution, we are now in a time and age where we seem to do nothing more than compare. Thanks to websites like Amazon we can compare all laser pens….world wide….all 653 of them…but just to be sure we also compare Amazon’s offerings to those on Ebay, Alibaba and DX.com It seems we like to do nothing more these days than compare things, and that includes watches. People always seem to be worried that they are going to miss out on something when they commit to a certain watch. I have seen people turn down the watch they saved for, for months or even years, simply because they were worried about whether the watch would offer enough value for money. They end up buying a watch that offers this mystical “value for money” even though they don’t like it as much as the other one.
MARTIN GREEN
Yet outside influences linger and start playing with our mind. A friend bought that watch, so maybe you should… No, you shouldn’t. You love a big designer name? Go for it! You want a Swissmade mechanical diver? Good for you! The only wrong one is a fake one! Second, watches are objects of art! Even watches under $2.500? Yes! Who came up with the idea that art should be expensive? Open a comic book and you see artistic expression that can even put million dollar paintings to shame. Actually, many affordable watches win prestigious design awards or are even on display in art museums like MoMa in NYC. They also come in a lot of different shapes and forms: from the Bauhaus greatness of Junghan’s Max Bill collection, the pop-art expression of a Swatch, to the crazy, asymmetrical Hamilton Venture, and take a closer look at a Dieterich, isn’t that art as well?
So the bottom line? Buy what you want, you are In the process we forget two important things. always right… and doesn’t that sound great to hear? First of all, a watch is a personal item because you are most likely the only one using it. So you are also the only one who can decide what is a good looking watch, or which watch gives you value for money. 89
CREDITS Martin
Running ahead of the music, Martin is the driving force behind Watchisthis?! Always thinking a few issue’s ahead, he sees the magazine as a constantly evolving concept to give its readers the best. Although he spend most of his writing career focused on Haute Horlogerie, it was his passion for more affordable watches that resulted in Watchisthis?!
Audrey If style was a woman she would be named Audrey. Living and working in the most stylish place on the planet, Paris, the luxury industry is her world. For Watchisthis?! she guides the ladies section with sense and sensibility, where the words of Coco Chanel linger through the air: a girl should be two things; Classy & Fabulous!
James The nagging conscience of watchmaking; so passionate about it that he is the one that often says what others don’t. But he also puts his money where his mouth is. Graced with a big heart, his travels to Africa have inspired him to protect what needs protection; the African Wildlife, as well as providing safe drink water to local communities. With 3thirty3 he combines these two worlds into a marvelous symbiosis. 90
Jonathan
A passion for watches, almost all watches, and an encyclopedic knowledge about them, that is Jonathan. With an eye for the exceptional, he knows where to find great watches and good stories. For Watchisthis?! Jonathan goes the extra mile, finding ways to bring affordable watchmaking as you have never seen before. And being French, of course with a healthy dose of savoir vivre.
TJ When you see TJ you know a steaming coffee cup is nearby as well. Super mom, and designer extraordinaire, she is the one that makes Watchisthis?! look good. Not an easy task, because she has to endure not only our outrageous, and sometimes unfeasible design ideas, but she is also the one that suffers when articles are late or pictures coming after. Events she tackles with whit and a smile because she knows that the magazine is her canvas.
Geo Whoever thinks that more affordable watches are out of scope for Cartierexpert Geo Cramer is heavily mistaken. Intrigued by any good watch, regardless of its price-tag, he was one of the first to embrace Apple’s controversial watch. He also has a keen knowledge of vintage pieces that most have forgotten, but are still very interesting, not in the least because of their price. Generously sharing his knowledge, expect him to become a staple of Watchisthis?! Magazine!
S
NaturalVrouw NaturalVrouw shares fun and easy recipes that turn familiar dishes into a creative and ‘lighter’ gourmet experience. All that is needed are a few fresh ingredients and of course a nice watch around your wrist to ensure perfect timing!
Shaïnez Style comes naturally to Shaïnez, and she loves to inject this into her articles. Ever so current, but she also knows her classics, because as the old English rhyme goes: something old, something new…
Dale
Alon Being one of the leading jewelers of Amsterdam, Alon has a passion for innovation. A perfectionist as he is, only the best will do. No wonder that he was not only one of the first jewelers with a full service web-store offering worldwide delivery, but also won awards with it as well. An industry insider, Alon’s knowledge goes beyond the brands he sells, thanks to the first ingredient of his success: passion for the watch industry as a whole.
Marine
An eye for the extraordinary, and a love for the underdog, ensures that whenever you meet Dale he will have something unexpected on his wrist. Despite his strong personal style, his knowledge extends far beyond it, knowing the heights and depths of the watch industry like the back of his hand.
Passion is Marine’s favorite word. This is what moves her and explains why she likes timepieces so much. She loves to admire the beautiful craftsmanship above anything else. While exploring the world of luxury goods, she discovered that she has in particular a passion for horology, which she is now actively pursuing.
Bénédicte
Ken
The luxury sector is Bénédicte’s natural habitat. As a specialist in perfumes, beauty products and horlogerie, she works as a brand manager with an international brand agency. When not building brands, she shares her passion with the world in her writings.
As one of those people with an encyclopedic knowledge on the topic he is passionate about, Ken is a pure joy to talk to. In Ken’s case these are military timekeepers, and for them he has not only an interest in the technical side behind them, but also the human story.
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