Vintage Rado Automatic Watches (Part 1) Originally published in International Wristwatch Number 69, July 2003 In 2002 the Rado Watch Company, Ltd. of Switzerland celebrated the 40th anniversary of the introduction of their groundbreaking oval DiaStar ('The Original') scratch-resistant watch. Rado, who is best known today for their elegant dress watches and use of high-tech materials, is one of a select group of companies who have continuously produced automatic watches during the past four decades. The DiaStar is certainly Rado’s most recognizable automatic watch, however, the company produced literally dozens of different automatic models during the 1960s, 1970s, and 1980s many of which are stunning, some of which are remarkable and most of which can be found even today in good condition and at excellent prices. Among the myriad watches created by Rado between the 1960 and the late ‘80s quite a few stand out. The Green Horse line of watches are noteworthy for their popularity and longevity; the Captain Cook for its rarity; and the Manhattan for its style and complex construction. Several other Rado automatic lines are noteworthy for their fascinating and modern designs; photos of a number of these watches are shown on the following pages. But before we explore variations of the aforementioned watches, let’s take a look at a feature that is shared by all Rado automatics and is found nowhere else. The rotating logo on the dial of Rado automatic watches is an oft-overlooked feature (one of many) that helps set these watches apart from other automatics of the same era. A variation of Rado’s anchor emblem, the rotating logo is attached to the dial by means of a post, jutting from the rear of the anchor, that fits through a red bearing mounted on the dial. This construction mimics two elements of the watch’s automatic movement: a pinion seated in a ruby jewel and the swinging of the winding rotor. The logo swings freely and is not tied at all to the winding of the watch or its running. It is, however, a subtle and most interesting feature. The rotating version described here was first used in 1962; on some older products, the anchor symbol was simply printed. The anchor, representing the success of the automatic watches, is now an integral part of the Rado logo. (Author's note: Additional information from the original patent application is found here.)
Green Horse Another common feature of most Rado automatics from the era is the use of the Seahorse motif. Rado waterresistant case backs of the era were engraved with a medallion picturing two or three seahorses with the words “Water-Sealed” beneath.
The Sea Horse theme was also used on bracelet clasps and in model names such as Purple Horse and Green Horse. These “Horse” models are legion and were made in many different variations (often in relatively small production runs of 5,000 pieces or fewer). Some models were only available regionally and their names may be specific to their target markets. A survey of auction websites and on-line vintage watch sellers (located mainly in <st1 Asia) will reveal a substantial number of Rado “Horses” with various dial styles and colors; case shapes and sizes; and movements. Some noteworthy models are powered by 30-jewel A. Schild movements with calendar, and are found with tonneau and round cases as large as 38mm in diameter. </st1 The Green Horses (and similar lines) represent a good entry-level vintage watch value. Well-preserved pieces can often be found for prices starting under $100 and the combination of interesting design, reliable movements, and low production numbers make them fun to own and wear. GREEN HORSE Ref. 606.3252.4 Start of production: 1980 End of production: 1982 Quantity: ca 2,000 pieces Ref. 11769 Start of production: 1965 End of production: 1967 Quantity: ca 5,000 pieces Note, literally dozens of reference numbers exist for the models named Green Horse, Purple Horse, Golden Horse, etc. This information pertains to just a couple of representative models shown in this article.
Captain Cook As mentioned before, Rado is known today for modern design, experimental case materials and elegant, dressy quartz watches. Sporty automatics make up a very small portion of their production, but some intriguing diver’s watches have come from Lengnau, including those named for the 18th Century explorer Captain James Cook. In 1962 Rado began production of a water-resistant watch with black rotating bezel and large, luminous hands. Emblazoned on the dial was the name Captain Cook. At a glance, the design offers little to set the watch apart from divers’ watches of other brands, but a few features make this a remarkable and hard-to-find piece. The fact that it is a divers’ watch made by Rado makes it unusual and, of course, it has the ubiquitous rotating anchor, but other facts make it notable.
The model shown above was made for only a short period. Production began in 1962 and ended in 1968, during which time only about 8,000 pieces were made. Eight thousand watches, made 40 years ago (before mechanical watches became something of an anachronism in the 1970s) and intended to be used underwater helps account for them being in short supply today. The second notable feature of this watch is its automatic movement, which is perhaps the finest offered by Rado at the time. A lovely automatic movement based on the A. Schild calibre 1700/01 powers the Captain Cook. The movement sports a gold-plated rotor and is adjusted and outfitted with thirty jewels.
Rado revised the Captain Cook in both men's and ladies'; versions later in the 1960s, changing the shape to a tonneau and using an internal rotating bezel adjustable by a second crown at 4:00. A 25-jewel automatic movement powers this iteration. These watches are also difficult to find today but were made in much higher quantities and seem to come on the market more frequently than the earliest model. A newer model has helped carry on the spirit of Captain Cook in the Rado collection. In 1998, Rado issued a DiaStar diverâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s model, which utilizes a similar rotating inner bezel, in a limited series of 5000 pieces. The current line-up of Rado's The Original (Diastar) includes a pair of colorful diver models (see www.Rado.com). CAPTAIN COOK Ref. 11683 Start of production: 1962 End of production: 1968 Quantity: ca 8,000 pieces Dial versions: black only Ref. 770 Start of production: 1962 End of production: 1968 Quantity: ca 3,000 pieces Ref. 727 Start of production: 1966
End of production: 1972 Quantity: ca 15,000 pieces Ref. 11773 (new Ref. 589.3004.4) Start of production: 1965 End of production: 1972 Quantity: ca 50,000 pieces Ref. 11868 (new Ref. 999.3004.4) Start of production: 1967 End of production: 1972 Quantity: ca 5,000 pieces
Manhattan Perhaps the most distinctive of vintage Rado automatics is the Manhattan line, the focus of a cult following among Rado aficionados. Of the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s radical and funky designs, this is the most distinctive and perhaps the most often copied, a recent example being the rectangular models of the Seiko S-Wave collection that was available at the time of this article's publication. Some vintage Seiko models are also almost exact copies of the original Manhattan line that pushed the envelope of designâ&#x20AC;Śit is easy to see why it was so often copied. Two case styles were offered in the menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Manhattan watches. With large rectangular shapes, wide dials, and unconventional hour markers, the Manhattan line: the original model with squared edges, and the more rounded second model (often referred to as the New Manhattan). Both are large, imposing watches with the larger measuring a massive 37 mm wide and 40.5 mm lug-to-lug. The thickness of the watch is more than 12 mm at its center. The visual impact of this watch notwithstanding, the true innovation exhibited by this watch is its construction. Appearing at a glance to simply be a square bezel and crystal with a snap-on back, disassembling the watch reveals a design that may be unique in the genre and is watertight, Rado claimed, to a pressure of 22 ATM (a depth of 220 meters or 726 feet). Such protection is accomplished with a crystaland-gasket system and a very tight and massive snap-on back that completely envelops the movement (see photos). The acrylic crystal, far from being just a protective cover for the dial, is actually integral to the seal of the watch. Though some later versions of the Manhattan employed a standard snap-on back, the original models all utilized this innovative design and, for this reason, often have very well-preserved movements.
MANHATTAN Ref. 11815 (new reference: 625.3011.4) Start of production: 1965 End of production: 1973 Quantity: ca 50,000 pieces Dial versions: white, light grey, dark grey, black, blue and red Special dials: with blue and green plots Bracelet: ref. 00571 Price: CHF 340.- in 1970 Comments: super-waterproof (22 atmospheres) MANHATTAN de LUXE SS Ref. 11914 (new reference: 625.3025.4) Start of production: 1970 End of production: 1978 Quantity: ca 40,000 pieces Dial versions: 6 different white, 5 different black versions, blue Bracelet: ref. 00571 Price: CHF 340.- in 1970 Comment: succession-model to above watch (11815) Price comparison ca. 1970 US$ Rado Manhattan: $116 (43,800 Yen in 1972) Omega Speedmaster Professional: $185
This noteworthy brand, most often recognized as a current leader in design, a pioneer in the use of ultra-hard case materials and a sponsor of professional sporting events, has been on the cutting edge of design for more than four decades. The Rado watches shown here, as well as others featuring radical case and dial designs-Starliner, DiaMaster, NCC modelsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;can be found at prices that are attractive both to the collector and the person seeking an extraordinary and reliable watch for daily wear.
The next installment of this article will be available February 2008 in iW magazine and at WatchCarefully.com Author's note: If you have a vintage Rado watch and want to learn more about it, I may be able to provide information. E-mail me or post at the Rado Forum with the model name, reference number, movement number and, if possible, photos or link to images, and I'll let you know if info is available from my notes or from records given to me by Rado. Text and images Š C. Bradley Jacobs and WatchCarefully.com unless otherwise indicated.
Vintage Rado Watches Part II
Rarities of Bold Style
by C. Bradley Jacobs Originally published in International Watch February 2008
Following the 40th anniversary of Rado's iconic DiaStar scratch-proof watch from 1962, iW ran my first article on vintage Rado automatic watches. The intent was to expose collectors to the variety of Rado models and highlight some attributes for which Rado watches stand apart from myriad other vintage pieces in the same price classes. This next installment continues that theme--that watches from a brand with a rich history of design and innovation can be found even today in good condition and at good prices--and adds a few twists. The Rado models previously profiled included some of the most famous: the Manhattan, which heralded Rado's 1965 foray into the US market; the Captain Cook, a line of diver's watches introduced in the early 1960s; and some of the “Horse” models, which include such varieties as the Green Horse, Golden Horse and Purple Horse. In this installment, the focus is on some uncommon pieces that are noteworthy--for reasons of design, construction, rarity or some combination of these attributes--yet seem to fly under the radar of the average watch aficionado. Green Horse Daymaster Early day-date model with uncommon movement Opening this printed exhibit of Rado watches, just as the previous installment, with a Green Horse seems natural as there were several varieties produced. The legacy of the Rado horses is still strong and even today one of the earliest Rado automatic models, 1958's "Golden Horse," is being commemorated with three limitedproduction versions available only in Japan, where it was the brand’s first success in that market. The models exhibited here are variations of the Green Horse Daymaster (Ref. 11706). 1962 was a milestone year in Rado history. During that year the young brand introduced their iconic scratch-proof DiaStar model and the trademark emblem found on nearly every automatic Rado watch since: the rotating anchor logo (for more on this see iW’s July 2003 Rado article). Also in 1962, Rado began offering watches with day and date displays. Such models were dubbed "Daymaster" and eventually included references within the Green Horse, Golden Horse, and Starliner model lines, among
others. Day-date Rados were an integral part of marketing campaigns in the 1960s; one magazine ad from 1969 touted six distinct day-date models including the DiaStar, Manhattan & Voyager but also more obscure models such as the Marco Polo. By that time Rado was proud of their day-date watches but earlier in the sixties the Daymaster models were less prevalent and not as widely offered across the brandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s product line. The two silver-dial Green Horse Daymaster models shown here are among the earliest styles, yet they exhibit minor differences--often a recurring event when examining Rado models from the same nominal line--that suggest they were produced in different runs. The case back engraving, rotor decoration, and dial markers are noticeably different. The watch that is presumably the earlier of the two models features more sedate markers (flamboyant markers are often associated with Rado watches from the late 1960s into the 1970s) and, though the movement is the same Felsa caliber 4009, is the only model of the three examined here with a rotor actually marked "Daymaster." A 2003 exchange of messages with the PR department at Rado headquarters indicated that only 500 Ref. 11706 Daymasters were produced, beginning in 1962. More recent research suggests that later production runs of a version powered by an A. Schild movement pushed the total to 5000 units made by the time production ceased in 1968. Such limited production and their age make the Felsa 4009 day-date watches desirable among the regular production models of Rado. Data: Ref. 11706 Made from 1962-1968 Est. 500 units produced with Felsa Cal. 4009 (+ approx. 4500 more with 25-jewel A. Schild movements) 30 jewels, day/date automatic Original price: CHF 150
A cursory perusal of the breadth of Rado models produced in the 1960s and until the 1970s shows that the brand focused on innovation in design and materials, but less on movement production. This may appear to be unexpected, considering the Rado brand grew from the Schlup companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s movement production successes, yet it makes sense under closer scrutiny. Beginning early in the 1960s, Rado made some decisions that would help them weather the storm that threatened to swamp Swiss and American producers of
mechanical watches in the 1970s. By focusing their attention, and the reputation of the brand, toward specific markets, they were able to build strength worldwide. By striving to become a benchmark for design and materials innovation, they positioned themselves to be able to adapt to the changing trends in movement production. For example, though the original 1962 DiaStar watches were powered by automatic movements, as electric and electronic movements--including tuning-fork, quartz, and LCD—became available, Rado was able to incorporate this new technology with their already futuristic styling and perpetuate the DiaStar line’s reputation for being “cutting edge.” As recently as the late 1990s, Rado was still updating the DiaStar’s power plants, as is made evident by the Accustar model’s ETA auto-quartz movement. During the aforementioned period of uncertainty for mechanical watch producers, there was still important progress being made, including the development of reliable automatic chronographs and alarms. Rado was quick to include such benchmark creations as the Valjoux 7750 chronograph and AS 5008 alarm movements into their product line.
Automatic Chronograph Rado's first automatic chronograph model When discussing the historical importance of specific vintage Rado watches, there are several attributes that must be considered. An obvious attribute that contributes to rarity is the number of examples of a certain model that were produced. However, a low production total may indicate that the model was a failure on the market. Although this can make a model historically interesting and desirable for collectors it can also be a source of embarrassment for the brand. The latter is certainly not the case for two of the magnificent Rado models featured here.
The first is Rado’s first automatic chronograph (Ref. 674.0900.4). This bold watch, housing a complicated movement—including day of week, date, 12-hour chronograph and automatic winding--is rather a departure from previous Rado production. It is not known how many hand-wound chronographs Rado made prior to the 1974 introduction of this particular model, but they seem to have been made in very small lots and are quite rare. Indeed, mechanical chronographs of any kind represent a very small percentage of the millions of watches Rado has produced in the past several decades. Even today, after a decade of strong interest in mechanical chronographs, the Rado line-up includes some automatic DiaStar chronographs available outside the US market only, and the newly introduced DiaStar Rattrapante, the brand’s first split-seconds chronograph. Only 1500 of the Valjoux 7750 automatic Rado were produced, between 1974 and 1980. (The Valjoux 7750 itself was introduced in 1973.) Three dial variations were offered, and each featured the bold styling for which Rado was known, but also included other features that differentiated this watch from similar models offered by other companies at the time such as Mido and Longines. A subtle difference, but one that represents Rado’s desire to produce quality pieces is the use of the 25-jewel variation of Cal. 7750 over the more common 17-jewel variant. A more obvious, and eye-catching element of the Rado automatic chronograph is the interpretation of their famous emblem. In place of a constant-seconds hand at 9:00 on the dial, Rado installed an anchor-shaped hand which, though it isn’t particularly helpful in reading the seconds of the minute, is a clever variation of their aforementioned whimsical spinning logo. Data: Ref. 674.0900.4 Made from 1974-1980 1,500 units produced Valjoux Cal. 7750 25 jewels, day/date automatic chronograph Three dial variations (blue, silver, grey) Original price: CHF 625
Automatic Alarm Another of Radoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first complicated automatics
Contemporary to their first automatic chronograph was Radoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first automatic alarm watch. Collectors of vintage Rado watches will likely be very familiar with the fine 21jewel hand-wound alarm models of the early days of the brand. These are lovely watches powered by a robust A. Schild movement, and are sought-after by devotees of the brand. Production totals of the early alarm models are unknown, but the availability of these watches on the market suggests that their availability was limited compared to that of other models made at the same time. Similarly, Radoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first automatic alarm watch (Ref. 680.7000.4), made beginning in 1973, must rank among the smallest production runs of its era. Production of the automatic alarm began the
same year that its power plant, the famous AS 5008, was introduced. Only 1000 Rado automatic alarms were created in a few short batches with, just as the chronograph, three dial variations. When compared with the hundreds of thousands of automatic date and day-date watches made by Rado in the 1970s and 1980s, the existence of 2500 complicated mechanical watches seems quite out of character. But upon examination, these watches clearly embody the brand’s spirit of innovation.
Data: Ref. 680.7000.4: Made from 1973 to 1975 with a white or grey dial; from 1974 to 1980 with a blue dial. 1,000 units produced Rado Cal. 680 (A. Schild Cal. 5008, 13 ¼’’’, Day-Date, 4 hands) Original price: CHF 495
Vintage Rado watches for Ladies
Quite a number of Rado watches were made in both men's and ladies' sizes, though there were some ladies-only models, such as the Princess, and men's-size-only models including the President. Included here are some examples of distinctive Rado design scaled down for smaller wrists. The DiaStar 55, shown at left and above ,with men's model DiaStar 8, features the scratch-proof tungstencarbide bezel, steel bracelet (provided by Novavit S. A.),
and gilt automatic movement similar to the well known men's DiaStar models (aka "The Original" DiaStar) with which Rado set a benchmark for both design and durability. Many variations of the DiaStar theme were produced for ladies and men, including a broad array of shapes and colors, quartz models and even some men's non-quartz electric watches. The standard men’s DiaStars of yore are of a size that is fashionable for the ladies of today. The legacy of this important model continues to be strong as it is still produced in numerous variants by Rado (and still imitated by watch producers worldwide).
Alongside the equally important Manhattan model for men--arguably the most recognizable and collectible 1960s Rado--Rado offered ladies a choice of a smaller automatic or a rather tiny hand-wound model. The latter, known as the Mini Manhattan (Ref. 5468), is shown here with a full-size men's model described in the first installment of this series. This diminutive watch is powered by the hand-wound A. Schild caliber 1677, measuring only 12 mm x 15 mm. Even in such a small package, the Mini Manhattan retains the angular styling and distinctive applied markers associated with the more familiar men’s version.
Rado’s dainty watches of the 1960s and 1970s were not always hand-wound. The Princess (Ref 7040) was a small watch powered by a then-newly introduced automatic movement. Produced around 1971, the elegant model shown features the 17.2 mm ETA caliber 2651 with quick-set calendar and a frequency of 21,600 vph. As with the chronograph and Daymaster models described above, Rado was clearly as intent on using the most up-to-date movements available as they were in advancing the technology of case materials and design. In the next installment of iW’s look into the variety of vintage Rado watches, we’ll explore some more unusual pieces—including chronometers, odd case materials and exotic dials.
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