Go Travel New Zealand Summer 2014/15

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Maori Culture

Summer Edition 2014/15

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Publisher’s Corner

Publisher James Lynch Editor Patti Brown Content Co-ordinator Sarah Bell sarahb@waterfordpress.co.nz General Manager Rex Lynch Senior Designer Daniel Grey Graphic Designer Michael Parker Contributing Writers Patti Brown, Chris McPhee, Alasdair Thomson, Scott Homer Website Manager Erica Lynch digitalcontent@waterfordpress.co.nz Administration Helen Bourne, Jill Holland Subscriptions Jill Holland North Island Sales Manager Alasdair Thomson alasdair@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5530 South Island Sales Manager Chris McPhee chris.mcphee@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 398 35507 Operations Manager Scott Homer scott@waterfordpress.co.nz +64 (0) 3 983 5519 NZ, Australian and International Distribution IPS Australia Jetstar In-Flight Digital Gordan and Gotch New Zealand Head Office Waterford Press 112 Wrights Road Addington Christchurch +64 (0) 3 983 5500 Queenstown Office 70 Glenda Drive, Queenstown

Kia Ora Welcome to our summer edition as we say goodbye to spring with its typically changeable weather and say hello to a long hot summer. The festive season is my favourite time of the year and a great time to be out and about exploring all New Zealand has on offer. In this edition Heather Hopeta takes a look at possibly our fastest growing tourism market: our unique Maori culture. Journey with Heather as she visits many of New Zealand’s innovative and exciting Maori tourism enterprises. Slice of Heaven turns the spotlight on the very best in accommodation available on the East Coast of the South Island; from luxurious to one of a kind. Sky High explores the myriad adventure activities on-tap in Aotearoa. Who knew there were so many ways to get Sky High? From scenic flights, gliding, skydiving, ballooning and scenic helicopter flights to a singular experience flying in a Soviet jet plane! Our own intrepid Chris McPhee faces his greatest fear to bring us his own up close and personal shark experience. From Fiordland to Northland read stories sharing genuine personal experiences highlighting regional produce, wines, activities and accommodation. They are a great read and prove that New Zealand definitely has something to satisfy everyone from thrill-seekers to sight-seers and everyone in between! So, what are you waiting for? Go explore, experience and delight in our wonderful New Zealand! Ngā mihi o te Kirihimete ki a koe

Published by

All the best for the festive season James

ISSN 2357-2183 (Print) ISSN 2357-2191 (On Line)

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APOLOGY: Go Travel New Zealand would like to extend an apology to our friends at Terrace Downs for the inaccuracies in their feature story in the previous edition. So sorry, Terrace Downs! We look forward to showcasing your world-class establishment in future editions.


CONTENTS MAORI CULTURE 8 SKY HIGH 16 MARLBOROUGH FOOD & WINE FESTIVAL 28 SLICE OF HEAVEN 30 REGIONS SOUTHLAND

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FIORDLAND

40

QUEENSTOWN

46

ARROWTOWN

52

WANAKA

56

MACKENZIE

60

WESTCOAST

66

HURUNUI

72

BANKS PENINSULA

76

KAIKOURA

82

MARLBOROUGH

90

NELSON

98

WELLINGTON

102

WAIRARAPA

106

WHANGANUI

112

TARANAKI

118

ROTORUA

124

TAUPO

130

BAY OF PLENTY

144

EASTLAND

150

HAWKES BAY

154

WAIKATO

158

COROMANDEL

164

AUCKLAND

176

WAIHEKE ISLAND

184

NORTHLAND

188

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MAORI CULTURE By Heather Hapeta

Photo credit: Taiamai Tours 8

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Maori culture, unique to New Zealand, may be the fastest growing part of our tourism market and is the second reason visitors give for travelling here. Surveys tell us our natural landscape is number one and luckily for travellers, many Maori tourism experiences combine those top two reasons.

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hile cultural concerts are important it also covers diverse experiences like guided walks; hot pools; eco-tourism; history; food, jet boats, and marae or luxury accommodation and include traditional and contemporary Maori life. Northland was the first New Zealand area settled by Europeans: whalers arrived at the end of the 18th century, while missionaries arrived in 1814. Most importantly it is also the place where the Treaty of Waitangi, was first signed between the English Queen Victoria and many Maori chiefs in 1840. Living in this long skinny land means I’ve been able to visit many Maori tourism enterprises – too many to include in this story but here’s a taste for you to consider. Let’s

start at the birthplace of ‘modern’ New Zealand – the Waitangi Treaty Grounds; it’s our nation’s most important historic site with guided tours and cultural performances night and day. It’s been years since I last visited and my memory of walking up a grassy slope to a white house and flag pole, alone on the top of the small rise, now presents a different picture as the native bush has grown, and it was through this, with its birdsong, I walked earlier this year. Their guided tours and activities include “Introducing the Birthplace of our Nation” through to a fun workshop with native flax, and “Living with Nature’ which explores New Zealand’s native plants and trees and their relationship to Maori legend. I valued hearing personal stories and historical accounts from people

whose ancestors had been involved in shaping our nation back in those early days and, talking to other travellers, it seems hearing these stories are popular. ‘I love how they take it out of history books and tell me about their ancestors’ an American tourist tells me. There during our annual celebrations of the Treaty (February 6th) I enjoyed seeing Ngatokimatawhaorua, one of the world’s largest carved war canoes, and many other waka, as well as experiencing all the other events, music and food. The Bay of Islands is home to the Ngapuhi tribe and while there I spent time with Taiamai Tours who provide waka (traditional canoe) experiences. They share their ancient histories and stories as you learn traditional paddling techniques, chants and

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help paddle the 15 metre waka taua on the beautiful tidal estuaries of the Waitangi River up to the sacred Haruru Waterfall. Last year Taiamai Tours featured on the list of the world’s 50 top “Tours of a Lifetime” in the National Geographic Traveller magazine, and I watched their international guests learning to become warriors – men and women from the USA to France and Holland, (a lawyer to students) spending over a week with Hone Mihaka and his extended family before joining the Waitangi celebrations as paddlerwarriors in the replica canoes. They loved leaning about Maori tradition in such a hands-on way and all said it was the highlight of their travels – especially being involved in our important, one-day-a-year, national celebrations. Two other Northland activities I did were on the west coast. Lonely Planet rated Footprints Twilight Encounter highly in their Code Green Experience of a Lifetime and I joined one of Kupe’s descendants (Kupe is the great Polynesian navigator who discovered New Zealand) and six other travellers, on a guided walk to the two largest kauri trees in the world. Being in the forest at night was very special for its sounds and sights – many considered the walk spiritual. The next day I was in a totally

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different environment with Sandtrails Hokianga with yet another of Kupe’s descendants. Andrew stood with me on top of the giant sand dunes, canyons, and sculptures on the north of the Hokianga Harbour - where Kupe first arrived - and regaled me with stories of the past with its intrigues, wars, deception and fun. One of the great things about this trip, in a dune buggy, is that it’s pretty exclusive as only three people can do it at a time. As my husband is from this area, I love that these old stories can now be heard by travellers.

No matter where you are over the length of New Zealand, Maori culture, and a diversity of enterprises and activities are just around the next corner. Just an hour north of Auckland is Te Hana Te Ao Marama which was started by a trust with concerns about negative social and economic issues in the community. It’s now living proof that dreams do come true and is considered Auckland’s leading Maori Cultural Centre with a comprehensive range of authentic Maori cultural experiences. From the challenge of the wero through to guided tours of


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the replica 17th century village and seeing the arts and crafts, visitors love it. An evening visit, the Starlight Tour, includes a traditional welcome (powhiri) and hangi and ends with a spine tingling cultural performance and guided tour through the lit village. Te Hana also has accommodation where manuhiri (guests) sleep on separate mattresses arranged inside the carpeted wharenui (meeting hall). As with all communal sleeping, and the usual snoring, many of you may need to takes earplugs. I’ve been told “a quiet marae is a sad marae”, and using that standard . . . I’ve never slept on a ‘sad’ marae! Further south, Rotorua Maori have been welcoming tourists for about 165 years and whenever I arrive I’m reminded it’s different. New Zealand is part of the Pacific Ring of Fire and here steam billows from cracks in the ground and the air smells like old eggs and I love the pungent geothermal mist! On my recent trip I stayed at the fabulous Pounamu Lodge on the sheltered western edge of Lake

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Tarawera. There is something magical about sitting around the table with great food and good conversation: hearing family stories. And, when the family history includes Guide Sophie Hinerangi who was guiding people to the pink and white terraces before the 1886 Tarawera eruption – it’s no wonder local knowledge and being proud of guiding is evident when David and Karen Walmsley are your hosts. A home-away-from-home is what they aim for but they provide much more than that in this luxury lodge. Purpose built to accommodate up to four guests, and overlooking Mount Tarawera and the lake, this home has been designed with many Maori architectural features and looking up at it from the lake I was impressed at its wharenui (meeting house) shape. They offer guided tours, following in the footsteps of Karen’s ancestors along or across the lake. I did the Lake Tarawera Water Taxi Eco-Tour to the hot water beach and a hot pool set in native bush – fancy a picnic while soaking in that pool – I can well-recommend that!. You can

choose from hiking to the Tarawera Falls, or retracing an historic boat trip taken the day before the eruption that changed the landscape forever. Soaking in the hot pool and exploring the lakes hot water beach (where you can even cook your just-caught trout in the hot sand) were highlights for me. I also enjoyed seeing the Buried Village and the site of Guide Sophie’s little house where so many people sheltered from the eruptions debris – they all survived but sadly many others died. Karen also took me to Te Whakaweraweratanga O Te Ope Taua A Wahiao Village which is usually, and thankfully, shortened to “Whakarewarewa or Whaka” by the home people. People have lived in this harsh environment for over three hundred years, using the gushing geysers, steam vents, and boiling water to provide cooking and bathing facilities. Interpretation and storytelling such as the boutique Pounamu Lodge provide are combining the best of New Zealand’s spectacular landscape with Maori stories and legends - and


Take your own authentic Cultural Journey in the beautiful Bay of Islands

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We confidently claim to be, Northland’s premier Maori cultural tourism experience. Our interactive Waka (Maori war canoe) experience provides a rare and unique insight into the ancient customs, rituals and traditions of our tribe, the Ngapuhi. It’s a perfect combination of eco, spiritual and interactive indigenous culture. Through active participation and involvement in our culture you are left with everlasting memories. Our ancient history and stories we share with you as we paddle a 40 ft Waka Taua (War Canoe) together on the tidal estuaries of the Waitangi River. Ph 09 405 9990

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- Guided Tours - Cultural Performances - Hāngi & Concert - Whare Waka Café 1 Tau Henare Drive, Waitangi, Bay of Islands

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international visitors love it. As a travel writer I ‘m told again and again by visitors that they value these authentic tourism experiences and want to interact with the local culture no matter which country they are in and Maori Tourism provides exactly that opportunity. A different form of storytelling is also in Rotorua where Journey of Ages, part of the Tamaki Heritage Experiences, which takes you back to Rotorua in 1350 where people are living in a pre-European village in an ancient forest. It’s the home of Uitara, a child and we follow him as he learns the arts of a warrior, the communal importance of a tribe, and how to survive. As all good theatre does, it mixes acting and technology with period settings as it tells the story (in outdoor sets) during the guided tour. Most travellers arrive at the recreated village by bus and the story starts on board. Once at the village the actors present their old tribal life through carving, weaving, moko (tattooing), singing, dancing, and cooking as part of the living-village experience. Recently there has been a cultural resurgence in healing. When Maori arrived – from their warm Pacific Islands – this must have seemed a huge land with strange vegetation, flightless birds, and no animals. Yet they learnt to use plants, along with karakia (prayer) to keep well and cure illnesses or injuries. World-wide, medicinal plants have been used for cures, and ancient texts - such as the Vedas and the Bible – talk of using natural remedies. Rongoa, the Maori term for using medicines that are sustainably gathered from native plants is still being practised today. In pre European days the Tohunga (expert, priest) held the knowledge of the remedies, but today others have that skill and early settlers also used Maori herbal medicines – for aching joints, headaches, constipation and dysentery to name a few. Recent research shows many of the remedies possess scientific validity. Heading further south, crossing Cook Strait, which is considered one of the most dangerous and unpredictable waters in the world, and which separates the North and South Islands, and connects the Tasman

Sea with the South Pacific Ocean we arrive in Kaikoura where these herbal medicines provide a boutique tourist venture. Maori Tours Kaikoura takes guests on tours which trace local and family history as well as the bush walks to explore the medicinal properties of our native vegetation. Maurice Manawatu is a direct descendant of Paikea, the whale rider, and it is his family that hosts guests on these interesting and educative trips. I’m not surprised that Maori Tours Kaikoura have been awarded the TripAdvisor ‘Certificate of Excellence’ and awarded Rankers (traveller voted awards) the ‘best cultural experience in New Zealand’ for 3 years running. It’s high praise when travellers put you at the top. In the Puhi Puhi Valley, just north of Kaikoura, we walk in the ancient bush, learning to identify trees and shrubs and hear of their medicinal and cultural uses: we learn of cures for toothache or dysentery and if we start to bald, it seems juice from the rimu is good for hair growth. Maurice also points out the silver fern punga, ‘Have you heard how this became a national icon?’ he asks us. Holding the fern-like leaf - green on top and silver underneath - he continues. ‘When Maori travelled at night, especially during times of war, the first warrior would bend a piece of the punga over so the silver showed in the moonlight for others to follow. Then as the last man came through he would turn it back so enemies would not know where they were going.’ He adds to the story, ‘When our first national rugby team was going to the UK, Maori suggested that it would be a great emblem as they too were warriors – and that’s how it


our designated ‘chief’ accepts the challenge, the women karanga, (calls of welcome) and we continue into the model village where soon we’re watching a haka performed by young men and women. ‘That is scary’ an Australian woman says, ‘You see it on TV but you don’t know it’s so loud.’ Her husband replies ‘Did you see how red the guys’ chests and thighs were? They really slap them hard.’ The women, in swaying flax skirts, also dance with poi - their graceful movements and intricate hand actions making the balls twirl rhythmically. Then it’s our turn. We’re not good students; most of us tangle the poi around our own, and each other’s arms: as well as this show, one of the reasons I always recommend Willowbank is that you can see kiwi

up close - not behind glass. My first time on a gondola was in Queenstown – and in those days the view was as great as it still is today and now, as well as other things, at the top you can also experience the Kiwi Haka Show and their traditional Maori songs, dances and stories. After a formal, traditional welcoming ceremony guests are taken through a journey that demonstrates and explains the use of poi, weaponry and the haka. Did you know the haka is not a ‘war dance’ and is usually danced without weapons in contrast to war dances (tutu ngaruhu or peruperu) which are danced with spears, clubs, or other weapons - Kiwi Haka shows you both. All over New Zealand new haka are performed every year and express a variety of emotions such as joy, anger, and sorrow, or comment on social issues: here at Skyline it’s used to retell Maori history – I recommend you complete the 30 min show by staying for a meal. No matter where you are travelling, from Rakiura (Stewart Island) the anchor of Maui’s canoe in the south up to Cape Reinga, the-leaping-offplace at the top of the North Island where the spirits of the dead leave for Hawaiiki, Maori tourism initiatives can be experienced. Maori Television also has a masterchef type show, and with all the great Maori food around, I suspect yet even more cultural and food tourism activities will be added to stories such as this.

Photo credit: Taiamai Tours

started and now nearly all our sports teams wear the silver fern.’ Many kiwi think it should be on our flag too. Over a cup of tea or coffee in his home, his friendly, family focused tour is just the place to ask everything you were too afraid to ask about Maori and Maori life today! In Christchurch, the South Islands largest city, is Ko Tane at Willowbank, which gives you yet another chance to see Maori culture. A conch shell blows, a chill runs down my spine and the evening starts. Walking in the park as we pause to listen to how manuka wood is used to smoke fish and we’re suddenly startled. Maori warriors run from behind us, their cries sound threatening. A women beside me screams and her husband laughs nervously. They challenge us – do we come in peace or war? When

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Sky h g i H 16

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The Land of the Long White Cloud looks spectacular from ground level… and it’s awesome from the sea – but from the air? Man, it simply takes your breath away – sometimes literally!

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Photo: Heletranz

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here’s an incredible choice of experiences in New Zealand that range from sedate to absolutely wild, something for everyone to get you high in the sky. You can take a gentle flight in a glider or float above the ground in a hot air balloon - try taking off from a lake in a waterplane, experience the thrill of a helicopter ride or go “top gun” for the day in an ex-military fighter. Alternatively, you could get yourself all the way up there then dispense with transport altogether – and skydive your way back down to earth! The range of airborne experiences will suit all tastes, moods and - let’s be honest - fear factors. Here we illustrate some

of the best in New Zealand, our choices to take you sky-high! Heletranz We’d heard so much about Heletranz that we decided to treat ourselves to the experience. I heard it would blow us away - be one of those things to remember – and I was certainly not disappointed… it was amazing! We lifted off and felt like rock stars soaring above the sights of the City, with the Sky Tower looking particularly impressive. We discovered that helicopter is by far the best way to see the famous Auckland landmark Rangitoto and its crater, and as we flew over Auckland Harbour and the stunning Hauraki Gulf, it made us realise just how much there is to

see in the area. Nature really is at your doorstep; from wild, rugged west coast beaches to rainforest, volcanos and the Gulf itself. The approaching coastline of Waiheke Island looked very appealing in the afternoon sun, enticing us for a swim in the warm-looking water, which the pilot said was possible once we landed! (We also started planning our next trip, a private picnic on a remote beach!). We touched down at the Man O’ War Bay on Waiheke Island, and made a stop at their Tasting Room for a lovely wine tasting session. The history and photos of the Kauri trees were really impressive and their wines are absolutely divine; I loved their newly launched rose! After that treat, we www.heletranz.co.nz

Extraordinary Experiences. Everyday.

each unique adventure begins the moment you take off 18

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almost reluctantly boarded back on the helicopter. To our delight, we found the next Vineyard stop just as amazing; a three-course a la carte lunch with more wine. The food was incredible and I loved the setting; I felt like we landed in Tuscany Italy and not 10 minutes from Auckland’s CBD! What a way to see the City and surrounding countryside, combined with world-class wine and outstanding food, it was perfect. Soviet Star Jet Experience After my Helitranz adventure, I knew we had developed a taste for high-flying excitement. I heard the Soviet Star Jet Experience offered a flight in a military fighter and I was super game to give it a shot. On arrival I was met by Ian, the chief pilot. I was fitted up with a flight suit, pilot helmet and all the gear including a G-suit (comprising of sleeves that go around your legs and middle with a curious looking pipe on one side). I wasn’t exactly sure why I was wearing a G-suit, but the answer to that came later… Once aboard and comfortably buckled up, the cockpit closed, the engine started, and the thunder began! I could feel the ground shaking even during the taxi to the runway but the takeoff was as smooth as silk. I hardly noticed the speed until I looked at the gauges! Mind you, I was really too busy looking over

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SCENIC FLIGHTS

Flightseeing at its best!

Discover NZ’s most scenic & spectacular vistas. experience over Tongariro National Park, the Bay of Plenty and, of course, gaining a true perspective of one of NZ’s most scenic regions.

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Christchurch as we approached our pre-designated altitude. We climbed and dived, then climbed way, way towards the sky and looped right over the top. The world was suddenly upside down… an amazing sight! Then came some exciting military dog-fight flying; the G-suit inflating perfectly in the turns, gently squeezing now and then, it was exhilarating! We pulled 6 G’s some serious speed! After levelling off, I was offered the controls… Me? Yes, me! Steering a three and a half ton war machine! Full military muscle, yet so light on the controls - you just point it where you want to go, and it all happens at an incredible, thunderous speed! The on-board video cameras

captured the lot - especially the grin of satisfaction on my face (which lasted for weeks!). It was incredible; a true bucket list experience - you have to try it! Taupo’s Floatplane After experiencing the thrill of G forces, it was time to chill out and encounter some soothing “gentle forces”. The best way to view the whole beauty of Great Lake Taupo is definitely from the air and on board one of Taupo’s amazing floatplanes. Arriving at the lake-side jetty in the early morning sun, I jumped on board the awesome Cessna 206 and prepared for our first water-based takeoff. Feeling super


unique - screaming along the lake just meters away, we lifted off and began the ascent to some of the best views in New Zealand! Being a very clear day, I could see for miles around, getting close up to Mt Ruapehu at one point. We climbed to about 10,000 feet and saw some very impressive volcanoes and craters, really appreciating the aerial viewpoint on this incredible region. Our friendly pilot Neil provided interesting commentary on the whole area, giving an excellent edge to an already fantastic trip - and then the descent! Expecting the bleak (and now boring) tarmac for our runway, the glimmer of Lake Taupo below was hugely inviting as our landing spot and we dropped without issue to land perfectly on the Great Lake. Hugely recommended, and one of the best air activities throughout the North Island! Taupo Tandem Skydive After our engine-driven adventures, it was time to take the leap of faith and jump out of a plane. We knew it had to do it with Taupo Tandem Skydiving as we’d heard excellent things about them. They are ‘originals’ and world-famous with their bright yellow plane and jump master suits to match! Welcomed by their friendly ground staff, I was handed a tablet to sign my life away. They assured me that I was in safe hands as I was taken through their jump and camera options; I choose the HD on USB the highest standard. There was only one thing left to do… it was time to man up and jump! It was the first time I’ve dropped from 15,000ft, and it was such a rush! Almost a minute of freefall at 200kmph!! I shook hands with my cameraman whilst falling, the smile on his face said he was having almost as much fun as me… Almost!

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The view and adrenaline took my breath away. I could see all of the Great Lake Taupo, the Tongariro National park and even Mt, Taranaki – it was such a clear day and I could actually make out both coastlines! It felt very free and hugely exhilarated, flying through the air like I was in a lucid dream. I was absolutely buzzing when I landed, a life-changing experience for sure. Within minutes I was watching my jump on the big screen, reliving the madness! They handed me my USB, and I left a very, very happy camper. The experience was awesome, and I would do it again with Taupo Tandem Skydiving in a heartbeat. The area and professionalism of the team are certainly hard to match!

Tasman Sea coastline. We gained some serious height while passing over the 18,000-year-old glacial moraine and lakes, with the Okarito Forest, White Heron and Kiwi Sanctuaries down to our right. Our pilot Tony steered us south towards the South Westland World Heritage area, and Mount Cook and Tasman popped their heads up above the approaching Fox Glacier. As we crossed the main mountain divide

I glimpsed the turquoise of Lake Pukaki, and Mount Cook village at the foot of the Tasman Glacier (the biggest of over 130 glaciers in the Westland and Mount Cook National parks). Heading north up about 20km to the Tasman Glacier, we crossed back through Graham Saddle to the Giekie snow field, the vast snow catchment area that feeds the Franz Josef Glacier. It was amazing to witness this incredible

Air Safari Franz Joseph Having launched myself out of a plane, I was ready to relax and go on safari with Air Safari Franz Joseph. We took off from Franz Josef Glacier airport in one of their awesome new eight seater ‘AirVans’ and headed west to the

the

grand traverse

experience the flight of a lifetime

Ranked #1 Lake Tekapo Attraction by Trip Advisor * * www.tripadvisor.co.nz September 2014

Flying from Lake Tekapo since 1970 22

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glacier descending into a tropical rainforest as Tony circled to drop closer and give all window seats the best view. Tony’s excellent commentary informs us that we are crossing the world’s longest alpine fault line, which follows the highway and township right below us. We cruised back to the airport after our 200km flight for a cuppa at the terminal, and to check out our breathtaking photos. It was the best

scenic flight I’ve ever been on; next time we will try the Milford Sound or Trans Divide options! Gliding Omarama Feeling relaxed after my wonderful scenic flight, I decided that gliding would be by next air adventure, and the picturesque Omarama has one of the world’s most famous airfields for gliding! I arrived at the mecca of gliding to take a two hour

TRIAL FLIGHTS

Gliding mecca

30 mins, 1 hr or 2 hrs

Richie McCaw glides here!

‘Trial Flight’, one of several options with the Glide Omarama Mountain Soaring School. I was also hoping to meet rugby legend Richie McCaw! The flight was organised but Richie was nowhere to be seen; “He’s away preparing to whip the Wallabies” said Gavin my instructor, “his other passion!” First up, a briefing about soaring in the sky; how Omarama gliders make flights more than 2,000 km

beside

trail

Omarama Airfield

ph. 0800SOARING23 www.gotravelnewzealand.com


long and over 10,000m high. The briefing explained how the controls work in these sleek and sexy aircraft, and passed on safety tips like “don’t pull the yellow knob until we want to release from the tow plane!” Looking around the airstrip, Gavin says “the nor’ west wind has kicked in… let’s fly to Mount Cook!” Like an eagle, we soared over the slopes and craggy peaks of the Southern Alps to Mount Cook’s icy summit where, high in an atmospheric wave, we saw the sea on both coasts. Gavin did a couple of lazy loops and showed me how I could fly the glider myself as we surfed the airflow home. Two hours after takeoff, we landed after one of the most extraordinary experience of my life; The sport of gliding is unbelievably spectacular, and the Glide Omarama team has the skills, equipment and passion for showing you why. I can see why Richie’s a fan!

Escape to a world of peace and tranquility. Hot Air Ballooning is a magical experience and a flight with Ballooning Canterbury offers panoramic views across the fertile Canterbury Plains to the Southern Alps. There is nothing quite so romantic and exciting as floating effortlessly over an ever changing landscape.

P: 0508 422 556 www.ballooningcanterbury.co.nz

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Ballooning Canterbury Having sampled the beauty of simple flight it was off to Canterbury (which I had heard was the best place to go ballooning) and I opted to experience the fun first-hand. We were driven through the stunning Canterbury Plains to an early morning flight which would allow us to witness the sunrise. Everyone helped set-up the balloon with suitable instruction from the operator Michael, and before long the burner roared into life above our heads, as we lifted up, up, up and away! With the backdrop of snowcapped mountains to one side and the Pacific Ocean to the other, we floated under balloon power - it was an incredible experience! Such a clear day as we drifted peacefully in the still morning air, we could see all the way down to the snow covered Southern Alps. A very relaxing morning; the scenery was


completely breathtaking, and being that high up and so comfortable in our surroundings felt like a very rare and special experience. Travelling through the valley was super tranquil and like another world. The owner Mike is a very knowledgeable and experienced pilot, and I felt totally at ease throughout the flight. We touched down in a remote paddock to a champagne reception and light snack – an excellent end to a fantastic trip! Definitely one for the memory book, and luckily we had plenty of high-quality photos taken in-flight (free of charge!). Fox Sky Dive I’d relaxed enough since my last skydive and now I was ready to jump out of another plane – and no trip to the West Coast is complete without an awesome skydive at Fox Glacier! Having dropped a few times around New Zealand before, I knew what I was in for - and I was absolutely buzzing when we arrived at the launch pad. Catching up with Mark and the crew, I loved the friendly and relaxed atmosphere on site - especially considering what we about to do! Harnessing onto the guide, I was actually quite calm on the way up, totally mesmerised by the surroundings; what a view! Quite unexpectedly, the door flew open - and this

“With a backdrop of the Southern Alps, Glaciers, rainforest and the ocean, it’s hard to imagine a better place to jump out of a plane than Fox Glacier” The Lonely Planet

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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part always gets me - adrenaline was running super high as I shuffled to the edge and hung my legs over... Looking down at the whole world way below, we swung three times back and forth and then wooooooosh - we fell through the air! Stabilising a few seconds later, I felt the shoulder tap signal and

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opened my arms to begin the proper open-arm freefall - what a vibe! The view was absolutely unreal - New Zealand’s highest and maddest mountains meeting subtropical rainforest, all next to the stunning and ferocious Tasman Sea. A super professional outfit, these guys have an incredible drop zone. I’m not

surprised it was voted the second best scenic drop in the world, only behind Mount Everest! Definitely go big, and skydive Fox Glacier! And that’s it, for now…! An immense range of experiences will greet any traveller ready to embrace the fear, take a challenge, and get sky high… Don’t delay!


www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Marlborough Wine & Food Festival 28

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Flying into Marlborough above valleys of luscious green vines, I knew I was in wine country and about to begin a weekend of indulgence. For as long as I can remember I have always wanted to attend the Marlborough Wine & Food Festival – New Zealand’s longest running wine festival, and this was it - I was here! I had finally made it. As soon as I stepped out of the plane and felt the warm summer breeze across my face and smelt the sweet South Island air, I wondered why I

M

hadn’t visited sooner.

y landing proved to be just the beginning of a gourmet weekend filled with wine, food and fields of green vines. Arriving at the Brancott Vineyard where the festival is held, I was greeted by blooming roses at the end of rows and smiling volunteers giving out wristbands and festival glasses. As I stepped through the picketed fence, I realised what an amazing yet relaxed summer day it was to be. The festival site was encircled by the region’s local wine producers, with over 50 wineries offering a taste of their amazing wines. From the region’s flagship Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc to Chardonnay, aromatics, reds and rose - the wine is world renowned and deservedly so. To match the wine, some of the region’s top food producers and cooks provided tastes from the sea and field; offering something truly delicious to match the local wines. From Mexican inspired tamales, fresh salmon, pork belly sliders, oyster gazpacho and lemon meringue pie ice cream the gourmet food was never ending. The Culinary Pavilion is home to the gleaming Electrolux Kitchen, which hosted a number of top New Zealand chefs throughout the day. I was lucky enough to be front row during Josh Emmet’s cooking demonstration. I even managed to have a photo with him following his cooking demonstration with locally caught Cloudy Bay clams. I can’t wait to go home and whip up his delicious looking clam dish for family and friends. With our glasses filled with a local

Sauvignon Blanc and a plate of freshly seared scallops, we found the perfect little spot in the crowd to enjoy the soulful sounds of Iva Lamkum. After talking with an enthusiastic stall holder in the crowd, I found out she was the chef behind the delicious looking lemon tarts I’d had my eye on all morning! After giving into the luscious lemon tart, I returned to my wee slice of heaven to enjoy its silkiness while listening to the NZ Army Band entertaining the crowd. Ready to burn off some energy, we headed to where the crowd had gathered to groove to the tunes of indie headline act The Phoenix Foundation. Following their epic set, the Beat Girls took to the stage, and we danced with locals, kiwi visitors and international travellers who proved to love this festival just as much as me. It’s without a doubt one of the best summer festivals I have ever attended and I can’t wait to come back! And the good news is that the 2015 Marlborough Wine and Food festival is on Valentine’s Day (14th February). So, with another couple in tow we intend to groove to top act The Black Seeds (described recently by the German Rolling Stone as ‘The best reggae band in the world right now’!). I’ll also be front row at celebrity chef Annabelle White’s cooking demonstration to experience her delicious take on simple fare inspired by local produce. And of course, this will all be washed down with a glass or two of Marlborough wine. See you there! For more information visit: www.marlboroughwinefestival.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Slice of Heaven The very best in

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New Zealand accomodation


East Coast Luxury in the South Island For this Edition we explore three of the most exciting, distinctive and finest accomodation options on the East Coast of the South Island. If you’re looking to combine an amazing experience with a luxury stay in New Zealand then look no futher than Hapuku Lodge in beautiful Kaikoura, Grasmere Lodge in the heart of the Southern Alps, and finally the unique glass PurePods high above the town of Little River on Banks Peninsula. Let’s take a look...

Photo credit: Hapuku Lodge www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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A Marriage of

Architecture, Sustainability & Fine Food

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Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses – a marriage of architecture, incomparable location, passion, great people and great food has been the dream of a family of architects with a clear love for design, the environment and the use of fine food produce. With the imposing snow-capped Kaikoura Ranges, the northernmost point of the Southern Alps, providing the majestic backdrop, like icing on the cake. Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses was creative dream of a family of architects with a clear love for design, farming and great food. As a family of architects and builders, Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses was designed to be a contemporary country hotel. Not limiting their design efforts to the building, they also designed and handcrafted - with local wood working friends - the majority of the furniture throughout the Lodge, including the custom designed beds that guests say are,

Majestic backdrop

"the most comfortable beds in the South Island.”

Contemporary and modern design periodically enables Fiona the opportunity to visit and soak up the food-heavy influences of the Bay City. Back at the lodge its produce comes from a combination of Fiona’s own fruitful garden, the producing olive grove, local growers and seafood direct form the boats in Kaikoura. As Fiona says herself “it is a chef's dream with the amazing food bowl around Kaikoura and fresh produce at my fingertips, how can I not be inspired?”. Together with her team of experienced chefs they are able to create a daily changing menu that takes its influences and produce from the surroundings, with the team utilizing over 75% of their fresh produce from the Kaikoura area. With the restaurant open to in-house guests as well as those not staying but are looking for something a little special, Hapuku has to be added to every Kiwi's food experience bucket list. With only being a bit over an hour from Blenheim and a little longer from Christchurch, experiencing Hapuku is within many foodies grasp. Bringing guests closer to nature without negatively impacting on it is another core focus of the lodge and clearly shared by nearby Kaikoura, which was the first local authority in the world to become a Green Globe certified community. Sustainability is ensured through many efforts, including recycling, composting, solar heating, rainwater capture and reuse and most notably their commitment to planting at least one New Zealand native plant for every night a guest stays at the lodge. At well over 16,000 to date to make it even more memorable, guests receive a certificate with The name of the tree planted on their behalf, as well as GPS details of its location so they can monitor its growth via Google Earth. It is clear that the marriage of plethora of elements is what gives Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses and the people that run it the opportunity to live and work in their own small part of paradise.

It is here just off the Coastal deep waters of the Pacific Ocean, the well known haven for seafood and sea-based adventure activities that Executive Chef Fiona Read & husband General Manager Chris Sturgeon run this Luxury Eco Lodge. Both talk of the “responsibility” of enabling as many people, New Zealanders and those from abroad to experience this small slice of heaven. One might be forgiven for thinking that the contemporary design of the lodge itself and its imposing tree houses are reason enough to stay. You may not be aware of the food culture and passion that also goes hand in hand with this luxury accommodation. Owner Tony Wilson commenced creating Hapuku Lodge and its surroundings with his nephew Paul and brother Peter in the early 2000’s. The property now boasts a fully functioning deer farm,1000 tree olive orchard, native bird breeding program, vineyard and extensive native garden. The Kiwi born, Californian based businessman has a passion for food which led him to work with his sister Sara in the creation of their food businesses in San Francisco which

Relax and unwind

Gourmet Seasonal Escapes at Hapuku Lodge & Tree Houses from just $679 for two (twin share)

includes luxury accommodation, a fireside three-course evening meal, complimentary mini bar & delicious Hapuku breakfast

Visit us at Hapukulodge.com or phone (64) 3 319 6559 www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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High Country Retreat

Enjoy the stunning scenery surrounding the Grasmere Lodge Nestled into the heart of the magnificent Southern Alps, rests the exclusive and luxuriously appointed Grasmere Lodge. Peaceful and serene and yet set in one of the most dramatic and diverse landscapes in New Zealand, this grand lodge offers elegant accommodation, fine cuisine and a world class Mountain Spa. Whether you are seeking adventure, leisure or both, Grasmere Lodge is the perfect South Island destination and easily is accessible. Built in 1858, before the main road that now takes visitors to Arthur’s Pass and all its wondrous sights was even surveyed, Grasmere began life as the homestead for a 43,000-acre sheep station. Although not quite as extensive today, guests can explore acres of land and the staff is happy to show inquisitive guests any of the seasonal farm activities. With four-wheel drive tours, mountain bikes and horse treks available, guests can take their pick on how to www.gotravelnewzealand.com 34

enjoy the best nature has to offer. For those wanting a little leg exercise, bush walks to Lake Grasmere, where a gourmet picnic awaiting lakeside with a chilled bottle of wine, is a temptation hard to resist. If up to more physical activities, guests can kayak around the lake then return to the lodge for a game of tennis, croquet or bowls, followed by a relaxing massage in the Mountain Spa. Fishing tours and clay pigeon shooting can also be organized and with two commercial and three club ski fields in the area, the choices are flexible. Heli-skiing is


The world class Southern Alps in New Zealand

also an option with the on site heli-pad. Renovated and updated to an exceptionally high standard but giving consideration to the original local limestone walls, the old farm house is the central meeting place for guests to enjoy cocktails, gourmet dinners and the elegant Spa. As in any character-filled home, the library and lounge are comfortable areas to enjoy meeting other guests or to spend an hour or two relaxing. A summerhouse and heated outdoor swimming pool, gym and underground wine cellar complete this part of the complex. Various accommodation options have been built to sleep a maximum of twenty-six guests. Thirteen guest rooms all providing panoramic views of the lakes, rivers or rugged mountains. Deluxe lake view rooms, a mountain chalet and a river view cottage are unique in their own way and designed to accommodate couples or groups. Cuisine at Grasmere is consistently outstanding. The lodge chefs work with seasonal local ingredients to deliver Grasmere-on-a-plate – food that’s innovative, healthy and full of flavour. To complete the experience, lunch and dinner dishes are matched to premium New Zealand wines.

Grasmere Lodge is open year-round, with each season painting its own remarkable picture. Summer is bleached blonde, autumn and winter are great times to visit to enjoy the beauty of the scenery and take advantage of the solitude of the Mountain Spa. Situated to the west of Christchurch, there is no need for guests to drive through the city to reach one of New Zealand’s most beautifully appointed and acclaimed accommodations.

Arthurs Pass, New Zealand

www.grasmere.co.nz E-mail: retreat@grasmere.co.nz Phone: +64 (0) 3 318 8407 Fax: +64 (0) 3 318 8263

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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PURE PODS Mike: We’d had a great time in New Zealand, flying in to Queenstown and driving slowly north before we spent a week at a family wedding in Christchurch. I had planned a surprise for Rebekah for our last night before we flew back to Melbourne the next afternoon. The drive took about an hour from Christchurch. I had been given directions but there were no signs. We drove up a winding hill road through a pine forest then native bush before we got to the car park, grabbed an overnight bag with a few things and locked the car. Walking into the forest along the track was an amazing feeling. The wedding had been full on and we were tired but as we walked the track it felt that all of that was in another world. Rebekah was not sure what to expect but when we crested the hill and came into the clearing her mouth dropped open and she couldn’t stop saying “Wow”. 36

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I had ordered the food and wine earlier so we didn’t need to interact with anyone during the whole time we were at the PurePod. The views were amazing of course and the night sky was terrific but what I loved the most was just hanging out with no phones or internet, talking and re-connecting. We went for a couple of walks but it was just so restful that we didn’t stray far from the hut.

Rebekah: I couldn’t believe Mike had gone ahead and made these plans. It was such a surprise and, to be honest, a little scary! We drove out of Christchurch and he seemed to know where to go, up this quaint country road and into the car park. He only wanted to take a little of our luggage and I couldn’t believe it when he simply wandered off onto a bush track. We crossed a little bridge and suddenly we were surrounded by birdsong and stillness. I can still see hear and feel it. The walk wasn’t too long but the biggest surprise was when we got to this hut made almost entirely of glass! The roof, the floor and most of the walls were glass. There wasn’t a lot to it – a cabin with separate bathroom which had an amazing glass shower and a loo with a view! And the views! Majestic views out over a huge valley and across a lake to the Pacific Ocean. Behind us was bush, all around us were birds, beneath us local fern bushes were growing and above us the sky turned pink then purple as the sun set. It was cloudy most of the night but we woke up an hour or so before dawn and the cloud had lifted, the moon gone down and we felt like we were covered in a blanket of stars that we could see through the roof and through all of the windows too. We opened the glass sliding doors and there we were camping in luxury under the stars. I felt so special, the linen was top quality, the bed really comfortable, everything was minimalist but still luxurious. When I look back on my time in New Zealand I can see the mountains and the rivers but the night we had together at the PurePod was something that I felt I only shared with Mike. It was our own private hideaway in the secret heart of New Zealand.

FOR AN UNFORGETTABLE EXPERIENCE

BOOK NOW Banks Peninsula, Christchurch

WWW.PUREPODS.COM www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Southland

MY SHARK EXPERIENCE by Chris McPhee

Southland

I

One of my greatest fears has always been sharks . . . until recently.

was in Queenstown when I noticed a brochure for “Shark Experience” and on the spur of the moment I decided to book in. I have never regretted an impulsebuy more than what I did the next day. Why did I just book in to jump in a cage with Great White sharks swimming around? At the time, I thought about cancelling, but then I told myself: I am stronger than my fear, and I am going to face it! The next day we jumped in our car and headed south towards the small town of Bluff, where our boat would be departing. The drive down there was cool. Driving through various little farming towns was a great insight into rural New Zealand. When we arrived in Invercargill, we grabbed a bit of lunch and then finished the last part

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of our road-trip. We decided to head over to the main tourist attraction in Bluff, Stirling Point. At Stirling point, we snapped the typical tourist photo standing next to the sign telling us how many kilometres it was to major cities throughout the world. It was pretty cool standing under the sign knowing this was the furthest south in the world I had ever travelled. We had decided to book up for the night at Lands End Boutique Hotel right next to Stirling point. The hotel was more than we could ever have wished for; it was well-presented inside and out and the owner was very welcoming and friendly. We headed next door to the Oyster Cove for some fresh locally caught seafood, which was delicious! We decided to get an early night so we could be

fresh the next day’s big adventure, although I just tossed and turned all night long with images from Jaws going through my head. A few hours after falling asleep it was time to get-up and man-up. I rolled out of bed, freshened-up and headed to Mike’s house to try on our diving gear. Mike was a wise old local with various tales to keep us engaged and interested. We drove to the pier, in the centre of Bluff, and parked before heading over to meet Mike and the crew. We had a safety briefing; and then it was time to jump onto the boat and head out towards Stewart Island where we would be dropping the cages. Mike poured some blood and juices from tuna over the side, to attract one of the most spectacularly powerful


and dangerous creatures of the world in our direction. When we started getting close to the sheltered cove of water where we would drop the cage, Mike started to get excited. You could tell that Mike loved his job and that truly made the experience for us. He was very calming with me and gave me a real insight into sharks and their behaviours and made me feel a lot more at ease. We anchored up, and Mike proceeded to fill a white sack with tuna and tied a rope onto the end. He then pierced holes in the side and dropped the sack into the water. I could see the trail of fish oil being released gradually from the sack and Mike informed us that the slick would attract the sharks toward us. There were various seals lazing out on the rocks nearby which is why the surrounding waters contained approximately 100 Great Whites. Which doesn’t seem like large amount, but when you realise that there are only an estimated 10,000 left, it is clear that this place is special. One thing that will always stick in my mind was when the crew told me that the Great White shark can smell one drop of blood in one million drops of water. After a few cups of coffee and some biscuits, I started to convince myself that they were not coming today. Mike informed me that in all his experience that situation had only ever happened twice. Not what I wanted the veteran to tell me at that precise time. He told us that the sharks would be swimming around the boat very soon, and we should get into our wetsuits and diving gear. Mike had created a makeshift seal out of a carpet, to float off the back of the boat, and when I heard a big splash, I knew it was time. After catching a quick glimpse of the great creature, it was time to jump into the cage. The cage (which had passed my very own secondary safety check earlier) was all that was between me and rows of razor sharp teeth. Keeping our hands away from the opening was something that Mike couldn’t stress enough, so I followed his recommendations and placed myself right in the middle of the cage. The power, size and speed of the sharks was breathtaking and exhilarating. I knew that they were large prior to jumping into the cage, but the true scale of them was staggering. Mike later informed us that some were not far off the 6 metre mark. They would be swimming away from the cage and then with one big swoosh; they would turn and start swimming in my direction. Even coming right up to the cage and having a bite of the metal (giving us that truly amazing shot). Overall the sharks came across as curious animals and not the angry, tormented creature that the movies have portrayed them to be. Seeing them in their natural habitat gave me a fantastic insight into their great ways, and now I am on their side. I am no longer scared of the most feared creature of the ocean and now respect and admittedly have started to love these great machines. Unluckily today we didn’t get the rare sight of a shark jumping out of the water, but we did manage to get within touching distance of losing a body part. A truly remarkable encounter, “Shark Experience” certainly surpassed all my expectations. An amazing experience ticked off my bucket-list! www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Fiordland

A Slice of Fiordland’s Finest by Alasdair Thomson

Fiordland

Milford

Fiordland is one of the most incredible places I’ve ever been to; this peaceful and remote paradise feels like another world. Our mission was an awesome overnight kayak to Doubtful Sound, with the fantastic team at Go Orange.

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W

e aimed for an adventure that combined isolation, kayaking and exposure to some of the world’s greatest scenery all in one mind-blowing weekend. We got lucky, real lucky. We saw some rare wildlife; the sun was shining, and we were immersed in

the wonder that is Fiordland, for three days. It began with a luxurious overnight stay at the beautiful Dock Bay Lodge, close to Te Anau and just a 15 minute drive from Manapouri. The following morning we met our friendly and well-informed guide Tara, from Go Orange. The first part of the trip

involved an awesome boat cruise across Lake Manapouri. We relaxed on the top deck, gazing at the snowcapped mountain peaks and the forests crowding down to the water’s edge. A bus took us on the 30-minute journey through native bush and up over the hill where we caught our first Te Anau

Fiordland Adventure

To Doubtful Sound

With the original one day guided kayak tour operators; Lake Manapouri kayak rentals. Other options available

“Our 20th Season in business”www.gotravelnewzealand.com

See our colour brochure or website for full details

41 - www.fiordlandadventure.co.nz - Phone 03 249 6626 - information@fiordlandadventure.co.nz


sight of the vast waters and glorious mountains of Doubtful Sound. We couldn’t wait to reach Deep Cove (our base) to pack the kayaks full of food and provisions, and then get going! Finally, we had everything ready; we launched the kayaks and paddled out of the bay. The scene that met us made us stop and stare; steep towering peaks dominated the landscape, impenetrable green forests and rocky hillsides tumbled down to the water. Waterfalls rushed over edges hundreds of metres high; valley walls jutted out of the water, thick with bush and scarred by massive tree avalanches. We paddled towards the islands dotted in the distance and gradually reached Roller Island; known as a nesting ground for the Fiordland Crested Penguin. Patiently, we scanned the banks for any sign of flapping or hopping, and then suddenly, just 20 metres in front of us, we spotted two penguins in the water. Their distinctive white and yellow eyebrows identified them at once - their antics were super funny

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to watch. What a bonus! Still buzzing, we skirted around the island and headed roughly east to catch our first sight of Hall’s Arm - an incredible section of Doubtful Sound that is considered to be the head of the fiord. A stunning backdrop, certainly an unreal destination! We were still coming to terms with the vast scale of the Sound when we stopped at the aptly named ‘Good

Beach’ for lunch. It gave us time to socialise, share stories about previous kayak trips and discuss the plans for the next few days. We ate hungrily and soon continued on our way, passing many beautiful waterfalls with their endlessly flowing water. We discovered the water is amazing to drink; so pure and delicious and especially refreshing in the heat of the afternoon sun. Milford


Even from a distance, the cliffs at the end of Hall’s Arm were spectacular, and as we drew nearer, the hillside came alive. Waterfalls poured down the cliffs and a long, towering ridge ran overhead. We floated for what could have been days, totally captivated by our surroundings. We thought hard about the active fault line that had helped shape and create the mad mountains that soared high above our tiny kayaks. It was quiet and still in the evening air, and we sensed this was a special place; it was hard to turn our backs and paddle on! Dinner was on the cards though and after all that fun we were ravenous. We shot up the fiord to find the camp in the bush, fully expecting a sandfly-infested evening. We were delighted to arrive at a custombuilt cooking and relaxation area, complete with insect-proof netting! We put some beers to chill in the nearby river and enjoyed some great food and happy vibes around camp, making a perfect end to the first day in Doubtful Sound. We woke through the night to the sound of screeching, fortunately, it wasn’t our neighbours and we’d been pre-warned, so knew at once it was the family of Kiwi birds that live in the bush just behind the campsite. We lay listening to the interesting noises of the forest before drifting back off. We rose early and peered out of the tent to be met by a very atmospheric and dramatic Fiordland morning, with swathes of mist rising all across the valley. After some hot breakfast, we launched the kayaks and paddled towards Elizabeth Island, watching the clouds floating over the peaks and dancing with the sun high above our heads. The glassy morning water made easy work for the arms, Milford

Perfectly situated alongside the 11th fairway of the Te Anau golf course

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and we tucked close to the island, paddling under over-hanging trees and fallen branches. Spinning around the end, we aimed back for Deep Cove and within a few minutes, we bumped into another two Fiordland Penguins! Even closer this time, we caught a really good look as they dived down and then up three times near us, seemingly unfazed by our presence. Could they have been the same guys from the previous day, come back to say hello? At last the sun began to break through the mist and bounce off the water jumpers were stripped off, and sunglasses put firmly back on. Heading towards home now, we took a last paddle past Roller Islands in search of more penguins, and luckily we spotted one tucked under the forest canopy with a little chick in tow! It was awesome to see them on land too and after some pictures, we paddled the last half hour to Deep Cove. Completely satisfied with an incredible two day trip, it was time to retrace our steps

Te Anau

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to Manapouri and Te Anau. Back at Te Anau, we got to reexperience some of our adventure at a cinema, specially built to screen the spectacular ‘Fiordland on Film’. One of the best pieces of cinematography I’ve ever seen! The beautifully crafted helicopter shots gave a whole other perspective and really illustrated the grandeur and scale of the incredible Fiordland area. We rested again that night at the relaxing Dock Bay Lodge; waking to a great selection of fruit and fully cooked breakfast, provided by the lovely host Dawn. The view in the morning was great with Tui birds drinking from the water fountain just outside. Unfortunately, we couldn’t stay any longer as we were off to experience the epic Milford Sound in the luxury of a Go Orange cruise. Navigating the fiord was incredible. We traveled past numerous waterfalls and massive, overhanging cliffs towering straight out of the water, and seemingly up into the clouds! At one stage,

the boat nosed-in under a 150m high waterfall and we were right underneath it and looking straight up at the water thundering down. We were getting soaked and loving it! There was plenty coffee to warm us up, and the complimentary fish and chips were great. Milford is amazing; the scale and scenery are simply breathtaking. On our journey back we saw everything there was to see. Seals were sunning themselves on the rocks, countless waterfalls flowing, and bottle-nose dolphins jumping at the bow of the ship, bouncing through the wake and having a great time! We were already planning the next trip to Fiordland on the road back home - and we relived the incredible weekend for weeks; the unique wildlife, the remoteness and feeling of seclusion... Thanks to the team at Go Orange for their professionalism; they really served up a mammoth slice of unique New Zealand. It had been an awesome, laid back Kiwi-style adventure!


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Book Now:

Tel: 0800 24 66 72 / +64 (0)3 249 8585

www.Goorange.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Queenstown

ROUGHING IT ON THE ROUTEBURN Justine Tyerman writes of her “conversion� on the Routeburn Track.

Queenstown

Justine and Chris Tyerman on the Harris Saddle with the Darran Mountains behind

I grizzled for months about the prospect of tramping the Routeburn Track the hard way; lugging a hefty pack laden with food, water, clothes and a sleeping bag up steep mountains to huts with no hot water, no showers and shared bunk-rooms! 46

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A

fter all, the tramp was my idea, and it was being hijacked by a bunch of purists determined to convert me to their cause. It was somehow nobler to forgo comfy lodges with chefs, fine wines, electricity, showers and soft beds and pillows, not to mention guides and sherpas. The purists were in favour of “roughing it” - waiting in line to boil your dehydrated dinner in a pot over a gas ring and eating (from the same pot you cook in). Sleeping with 30 to 40 other unwashed souls in wooden huts with only pot-belly stoves for heating and miners’ headlights for lighting when the solar power goes off at 9pm. My long-cherished notion of hiking the track with no more of an encumbrance than a light-weight day-pack, relaxing in the evening in clean, dry clothes after a hot shower and sharing a glass of Central Otago pinot noir with fascinating foreigners as fabulous aromas emanated from the lodge kitchen looked doomed. One-by-one, our group was seduced by the “let’s rough-it” mantra. What is it about Kiwis that smelly, wet, cold, uncomfortable, hungry and sleep-deprived are superior qualities to clean, dry, warm, comfy, well-fed and rested? As we bused from Wanaka to the Glenorchy end of the track, I gloomily studied the profile on the

DoC brochure which looked to me like a series of vertical cliffs. Seeking to cheer me up, one of our team said contestants in the annual Routeburn Classic run the track in a matter of hours so surely I could manage to walk or crawl it in three days. Yeah, right! I stuck on my bravest face and tried to ignore the sense of foreboding as I laced up my boots and struggled into my pack (if you get those two in the wrong order, you are in big strife already. I grasped my trusty tramping stick and began the first few steps of our three-day, 32 kilometre trek. We had studied the weather stats and prayed notoriously wet Fiordland would bless us with three fine days especially while crossing the Main Divide at the 1255-metre Harris Saddle. The first few hours of the track were unbelievably beautiful, and a good confidence booster for me. It was a gentle, but steady climb in warm, dappled sunlight on a wide track through a forest of palest green-leafed beech trees with the crystalline Route Burn stream babbling conversationally alongside us. Crossing two very swingy, swing bridges added to the adventure and brought out the silly boy in the men, of course. By the time we downed packs on a sunny, mossy bank by a deep turquoise pool for our first high-energy snack stop two hours later, there were

Experience a day to remember Small group, day tour from Queenstown - Te Anau to Milford Sound return We stop where the big buses can’t All year round Trademark ‘kiwi style’ barbeque lunch in the Fiordland National Park between Nov - April Hot buffet lunch on the cruise boat May - October Cruise in Milford Sound (may see dolphins, fur seals, waterfalls and more) Often see cheeky Kea on the Milford Road Visit website to book online

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Lake Mackenzie with Emily Peak in the background

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glimmerings that maybe I could do this. We had already met a variety of other trampers from all corners of the globe, and there was an unspoken kin-ship among us as we discovered we were heading for the same hut. The next phase was significantly steeper and more challenging, but by now I had begun to bond with my pack and boots. Furthermore, with every step up the narrow, rocky track, the landscape unfolded to reveal stunning views of waterfalls, lakes, rivers, alpine peaks and valleys. The one-foot-after-the-other advice of my tramping mate was proving its worth and by mid-afternoon, we were high above the valley floor where our bus had deposited us that morning... and I had not uttered a single grumble. We reached the Routeburn Falls Hut just as the weather - true to forecast - suddenly turned unbelievably wild; torrential rain turning the silver-grey rock face towering above the hut into a 10-metre wide waterfall within minutes. The wind gusts were so strong every so often, the waterfall was blown back uphill creating a bizarre spectacle. As the 48-bed hut was fully booked, there was a scramble for the good bunks (ground level and in close proximity to the ablution block). Being newbies, we didn’t score too well on the first night, but made a note to send a fleet-footed, bunk-booker ahead of the main party the next day.

After ferreting out our one set of dry “evening clothes” from the bottom of our packs and having a freshen-up with ice-cold mountain water, we set about preparing dinner. The hut was abuzz with rosycheeked trampers boiling billies, swapping animated yarns about the day’s tramp and using ingenious means to suspend wet gear around the blazing pot belly fire. Being our first night, we had fresh meat: thinly sliced steak with surprise peas and instant mashed potato accompanied by a small glass of rough red from a wine bladder carried in by the strongest of our men. The meal was absolutely delicious; all the more so for the huge effort required to lug it uphill for five hours. The sense of camaraderie was infectious and soon the Israeli, German, Dutch, French, Canadian, Australian, British and Kiwi (very much the minority) trampers were playing cards, giving each other history, geography and language lessons, sharing photos and addresses and having a jolly fine time. A highlight of every evening was the address by the resident DoC ranger, the official purpose of which was to talk about hut rules, track protocols, safety and the all-important weather for the next day. But once that was out of the way, it became clear these chaps were accomplished entertainers - the hut was their

The long traverse along the exposed Hollyford face gave us spectacular views of the Darran Mountains and the Hollyford Valley


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stage and us, their captive but eager audience. Dressed in full DoC regalia and looking like a caricature of a scout master, one fellow was a cross between John Cleese and Dudley Moore and had us in hysterics with his anecdotes of such escapades as possums invading sleeping bags in the dark of night. As we headed to our cold, dark bunk-room for the night, I glanced up

the hill where the lights of the lodge were still twinkling and well-dressed, mainly Japanese folk, were enjoying a night cap. I felt oddly smug and contented rather than envious — it took me by surprise! I snuggled into my cosy featherdown sleeping bag, slept soundly along with my 47 bunk-mates and awoke with the dawn to find the storm had passed, but gale-force winds were forecast on the Harris

Saddle. The ranger said no one was allowed to leave the hut until midmorning when the winds abated. The long, steep trek to the saddle was an experience I could happily repeat. The overnight downpour left the landscape glistening and turned the Routeburn Falls into a fury of white cascading foam. We climbed above the bush line across wetlands and tussocks dotted with delicate alpine flowers. Skirting the bluffs

The stunning Lake Harris

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above the ink-blue Lake Harris, we left the Mt Aspiring National Park and crossed into the Fiordland National Park. By the time we reached the saddle summit for a late lunch, the wind had died completely. The sun beamed down on us from a cloudless sky and we were blessed with a breath-taking panorama of the snow-capped Darran Mountains towering above the deep, dark Hollyford Valley with the shimmer of the Tasman Sea far beyond. I felt an overwhelming sense of pride as a Kiwi to call this magnificent place my home, humility to be in the presence of such wondrous natural beauty... and a secret sense of extraordinary satisfaction deep down, at having summited-with-pack. The long traverse along the exposed Hollyford face gave us spectacular views of the massive Mt Tutoko with its hanging glaciers, the highest of Fiordland’s many peaks at 2723 metres. We then began a steep downward trek to Lake Mackenzie Hut through an enchanted forest, heavy with iridescent green moss and trees twisted into tortured humanlike forms. The sun was setting by the time we reached the hut but our young Israeli friends, honouring their pledge to swim in every lake they came across on their many tramps around New Zealand, plunged into the snow-melt waters of Lake Mackenzie and swam to a small island. No doubt to show us just how tough soldiers in the Israeli army really are. Having consumed all our fresh

food, it was down to the dehydrated fare for the next two nights which I found perfectly adequate, but the men were not so happy. However, a tot of whiskey cheered them up no end! Next day, the track took us through the ribbonwood “Orchard” and past thundering waterfalls including the Earland Falls that cascaded from a cliff face far above us to the valley floor below. Late afternoon, it began to rain as only Fiordland knows how and trampers arriving at Lake Howden Hut off the Greenstone and Caples tracks were seriously drenched. Even their sleeping bags were sodden which made us realise just how blessed we were to have made it to the hut yet again before the heavens opened. Trampers caught on the Hollyford face that day had to be rescued when they became disorientated in the thick mist and driving rain. On our last day, we tramped in steady rain in full wet weather gear and under the thick cover of silver beech forest to escape saturation. We missed the allegedly fabulous views of Lake Marian from Key Summit, but that gave me just the excuse I was looking for to tramp it again, from the other direction. At track’s end, the sense of achievement was too much for me to contain. Fully converted to doing it the hard way, I went down on bended knee and apologised contritely to the rest of the team for having ever entertained wussy thoughts of hot showers, feather pillows, fine food and sherpas.

marina

Located on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, surrounded by the spectacular Remarkables Mountain Range, Mantra Marina offers a beautiful and unique location on New Zealand’s South Island. Only four minutes drive from the centre of Queenstown and just moments from ski slopes, golfing, hiking trails, wineries and high adrenalin sports, Mantra Marina boasts a variety of five star self-contained apartments and standard hotel rooms.

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Arrowtown

MAGNET FOR MAESTROS by Mitch Watchorn

Arrowtown

Why are we drawn to these mountains? Perhaps they radiate a secret siren. The most enigmatic souls have come here seduced by these robust thrusts of grandeur. The magnificence of the Southern Alps reaching across the sky provides an inspiration to many - explorers, writers, climbers and artists alike.

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Digs Hargeaves ~ Artisan Jeweller Born 1948

Flemming. Father’s watch was an Omega Gold Seamaster. He aIso had a 1928 Supercharged Bently. It was reported Flemming used my father’s style to build the Bond character.” A wry smile. ”I have that watch”. As we greedily slurp red wine he skillfully transforms our reality... “Aaah yes, Mitchie…”. ”I was a young man in London and needed money to return to New Zealand for ski instructing. I had a dream to become a leather craftsman, but every hippy and his dog was doing it. I became more exclusive and created a collection of bracelets and rings. Finding a little

I push the crooked old door. The slow swing reveals Digs Hargreaves in a shaft of light. His focus on a teeny glistening project provides a slow motion yet genuine greeting. Then a gorgeous lady-killer smile. Sexy. Suave. The studio has a steam-punk vibe. Tiny little versions of old worldy blacksmith tools stoically rejoice their place on his workbench. Here is the birthplace of extreme detail, the most delicate brilliance, and a zone of intense heat, liquid metals and oceans of stories. This worn old bench is the workhorse for an incredible variety of the most beautiful soul-touching pieces. Now, about those stories… Digs Hargreaves is a delicious blend of 1950’s aristocracy and British mid-60’s Mods subculture. Everything about him is cool, James Bond cool. I suggest similarities. No coincidence. He nonchalantly says, “My father worked alongside Ian

Pakistani man who would sell as many as I could make, I managed to pay for my plane ticket. After that winter ski instructing, I decided I had finished living out of a suitcase, came to Queenstown and set up a small jewellery outlet in the mall. No one would teach me; they didn’t want the competition, and having nowhere to train, I taught myself”. He chuckles. “The rest is history.” I know his skill and knowledge is unsurpassed. His passion and perfection have made it so and his summary is an understatement to say the least! I begin pouring through his groovy photo album: “I say, Diggies ... Look at all the pretty girls!” “Yes,” he pauses, “I always had a penchant for pretty girls.” I keep turning the pages. It’s akin to a ‘69 Vogue issue. Gorgeous, sophisticated ‘Emma Peel’ girls, ‘Playboy’ flavoured sports cars and

hey are a magnet for maestros. I have had the luxury of interviewing three brilliant minds of men who regard these mountains as companions of life… as do I. To sneak a peek into the exclusive and very private world of artisan jeweller - Digs Hargreaves, sculptor - Shane Woolridge and artist - Graham Brinsley, is a mind-blowing honour. There are those in the world whose artistic power affects our being; these are such men.

skiing in beautiful mountains. “I got a ski ticket in Banf then hitchhiked to a lovely house in Spokane on a lake. It had a huge amphibious aircraft tethered to the jetty. The father pulled out a pistol. It was a Luger, and we got to fire it into the lake”. I squeal “How cool! How did it feel when you fired that thing?” Always a twist: “Well a bit guilty actually because we fired a hole in the gas tank. When we tried to start the amphibious craft, the fuel had drained out!” (more chuckling). “I was also asked if I would like to drive a very fast car. A brand new 7 litre Corvette Stingray, quite something in its day. I got it up to 150 mph; lampposts flashed by; the nose started to lift at 160 mph… oh shit!” Extremely fast for those days! Very tough to handle.” He glances my way with the knowing look of a thrillseeker. I smirk back. We share a love for speed and stylish design. The album flutters to exquisite silversmith designs and settles. I drink in the beauty of the daisy bracelet. Digs remembers fondly, “ My mother always had a thing for daisies and I have always used a stylised daisy as my identity symbol. The Mount Cook daisy was part of the beginning of my love for skiing and now, my gorgeous granddaughter is named Stella Daisy. I gasp at a wonderful mining piece of glinting jade, silver and gold. Made to celebrate Arrowtown’s 150th anniversary, it is now on permanent loan to the Arrowtown Museum. Now, a tiny gleaming two blade jet ranger helicopter mesmerises me; a piece he was challenged to achieve.

Digs explains, “Well, I would love to give it a go…so I did” A trip to the helicopter company, a request for the chopper’s manual, then Hargreaves stunning mind studied the ‘parts chart’ and behold! The chopper in gold. I query influences on his work. He tilts his head “As we baby boomers www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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were growing up, the soldiers would never speak of the war so when the war comics came out the artwork had a profound affect on me. Then there was Keith Richards’ skull ring. I was always fascinated by skulls… the symbol for poison and pirates with treasure - often with diamonds in the eye sockets. Many attempts made and many skulls, so they became necklaces”. I head towards the old door, my brain bursting with ‘Diggyness’. My opinion? Who else is promised a mini as a first car but instead ends up with a convertible 1952 MGTD? He may be retired now, but Digs Hargreaves oozes Bond, James Bond…it’s in his blood. Shane Woolridge ~ Sculptor Born 1959

It’s a stunning state of affairs to gaze at the glorious mountains from my deck with good friend and sculptor Shane Woolridge. It’s riveting stories, magical melody and cheeky laughter, but I am constantly amazed by his genius psyche. His body of work is a phenomenon and visual symphony the world is clambering to see. Growing up under a working class regime in England in the ‘60’s forged strength and determination in Shane Woolridge and laid a platform of survival and self -preservation. He apprenticed as a bricklayer. That tough urban environment tended to stifle creativity for fear of ridicule. He looks at me with a twinkle in his eye and whispers, “I was a secret poet.” I’m intrigued as always. Shane smiles. “Wasn’t ‘til my late teens I 54

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found the power of an electric guitar and a microphone. I had a voice. Suddenly I needed to be creative because I had an audience. That’s addictive. I was 19 years old, in a band called ‘The Crack’. The style was ‘Oi’, melodic punk. We were signed by ‘RCA’, had a single in the Top 100 in 1982 and performed on BBC television. The show watched by 12 million viewers”. Wow! Shane is so humble, and I am so gob-smacked. He is ever thoughtful. “I leaned towards clever use of lyrics - the musicianship of Elvis Costello and Ian Drury, the quick wit of comedians, Billy Connolly and Dave Allen”. I squirm with glee and announce: “It is a recipe for great story telling!” Shane shrugs matter of factly; “ You needed to tell a great story within three min-utes. The music was a

vehicle for the lyrics, and the lyrics were a vehicle for the song. I finally realized I could use my stone craft as a vehicle for my art and my art as a vehicle for my love of stone”. He means it. Shane Woolridge and natural found materials are in harmony. He tells their story in beautiful, strong forms. Defying Einstein, he makes stone dance along weightless feminine curves. ‘The Water Droplet’ showcases his versatility of mediums with two stunning versions, one in copper, one in schist rock. Breathtaking. “Do these designs just pop into your head?” I blurt. He glances heavenward, then confirmation. “Yes, they do. Some evolve, like the ‘Missing Link’. From a gargantuan oval it became split at the

top with an elegant twist, a chain link and a nod to the evolutionary missing link”. ‘Voyage’ is his latest piece and is part of an up and coming exhibition called ‘The Find’. I know it has him gripped with excitement when he says “I am experiencing delight with found objects. I establish a new entity in them while retaining their originality”. Irresistible! The urge to touch and caress these works is strong. They scream; “Reach out and touch me!” Enticing. Tactile. Interactive. They speak for themselves. Shane Woolridge is literally a lyricist of substance. Rock by day, rock by night. There is rhythm in everything. There is definitely rhythm. Graham Brinsley ~ Artist Born 1963 Trip the light fantastic! It’s a dream come true. The great painter Graham Brinsley is my subject, and I cannot believe my good fortune. I have looked up to this su-preme master of light since coming to these mountains in 1990. The Peter Pan of expert painters, (oh yes, there is mischief within), he lives and breathes these Otago mountains and sees the world as I do. He doesn’t just see a mountain or a leaf. Graham sees Light. He knows it takes our world captive. He knows it reigns over our emotions and in a genius move he coaxes it to loosely dance and play all over his vast canvases. Then he laughs back at Light – for within these beautiful oil paintings Graham Brinsley becomes king. We are at Graham’s Lake Hayes Road studio near Arrowtown. It is a magical place, the stuff of fairytales… and that’s just the outside. Inside, incredible oil paintings everywhere.


Magnificent giant windows into Fiordland hang contented as they watch their maker briskly sweep bold colours. He tells me how it all began. “My mum used to take me plein air (outdoor) painting in Wanaka. I didn’t have other painters in the family, they were all drama based and musical”. He vigorously slaps more paint around. “I was painfully shy”. Enter ‘Pablo Picasso’, Graham’s glossy black labrador strolls in and vigorously wags his tail through the light blue oil puddle on the paint palette… Haha! Priceless. Like father, like son. Graham snuggles the pooch and continues: “I started selling paintings at outdoor markets during family holidays when I was 16.” He wistfully looks over to me. “…hmmm, probably at 18 started to come out my shell; I was doing a lot of tramping, skiing and scuba diving. It was when I was in my late teens that I met Douglas Badcock and later Peter Beadle. They have been my main influences along with Peter McIntyre. As I got older, I travelled over-seas and discovered the French Impressionists, Monet, Sisley and Pissarro.” He loads his brush with indigo. I am blown away, what a line up! As far as hunter-gatherers go, Graham Brinsley is the real McCoy. He is always heading into the wilderness with painting and hunting kit in hand. He steps back and studies his work. “I live in one of the most visually dramatic and exciting places in the world. I am lucky to have such a feast of visual stimuli within such easy reach.” I watch the image emerge…Crikey! It’s already

awesome, and he’s only just begun. Like me, Graham loves Fiordland; we can’t wait to be spellbound by its majesty. It’s just like Neverland. In those remote and wild fiords Graham absorbs it all and so begin more glorious compositions that we are blessed enough to enjoy. It’s hard to believe from the incredible talent and solid emotion his paintings evoke, that he is as mischievous as he is. The naughty sparkle in his eye usually causes severe hilarity and untold Mr Bean moments, so when I asked his friends for some entertaining tidbits, they chortled loudly: “How ‘bout a ‘Samurai sword swinging pianist, third dan black belt McGuyver? Hahahahaha!” fading guffaws… Despite the jovial jibe, I know he really is all of these things, but above all I know he is the loveable rogue that is my friend and my idol. Hey, and thank you for the crayfish, Peter Pan. Legend. So back to the question… “Why are we drawn to these mountains?” Here are some of the responses from my Facebook post: “Because they have cool fresh air, lovely views and a great sense of achievement” – Robert Van Beek “They have wild animals that fit well in the freezer, and peace n quiet” – John Bell “Because they are so freaking amazing” – Xavier Sparkes It has been an honour and so much fun to write this… Do the mountains have a magnetic pull to certain types of people? I’m sold. Sure seems like it.

Home of the famous Arrowtown Gourmet Pies Offering quality homemade fresh breads, sandwiches, cakes and slices Fantastic Coffee and great value menu and cabinet food available takeaway or eat in. Phone: 03 442 1587 Email: awbakery@xtra.co.nz Open 7 Days

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Wanaka

RETURN TO TITITEA/ ASPIRING Anna Keeling

Lake Wanaka

Mt Aspiring

Driving to Mt Aspiring National Park from Wanaka, Mt Aspiring or Tititea – meaning glistening peak in Maori - eases into view across the Glendhu bay arm of Lake Wanaka. At 3033 metres, Tititea soars significantly higher than the surrounding mountains and its snowy ramparts lure anyone with mountaineering aspirations.

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ititea was first ascended by Major Bernard Head with legendary NZ guides Jack Clarke and Alec Graham on November 23, 1909. The three men took the steep west face route direct from the Bonar glacier – a route not repeated until 1965! Through the 1990’s, I lived in Wanaka and trained in the craft of mountain guiding. I frequently climbed Mt. Aspiring, taking various routes to the summit. In 2000, I left the golden high country of Central Otago to live and guide in North America. Every year I’d return home to visit family, friends and the land. In 2006, I became a mother. Returning nostalgically to Wanaka, I reflected on time spent in high places of Aspiring National Park and made plans to

return to guide within the year. For over a decade, I’ve climbed with Michele in North America. A biochemical engineer living in Berkeley, California, Michele is a strong all-round climber who learned from the prolific Seattle Mountaineers. Michele is the type of client who can be lowered down a steep face to find and build her own security anchor within a couple of minutes. Over our years of climbing together, we’ve formed a firm friendship. A lover of wildlife (and quality snacks), Michele planned a journey to New Zealand that would tie in her passion for flora and fauna with her love of climbing. I’d take care of the snacks for once. We joined forces with Australian mountain guide Abby Watkins and her client (and cousin), Tanya. The Colin Todd Hut Photo by Mark Watson

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four of us would fly to Bevan Col on the edge of the Bonar Glacier and cross to the Colin Todd hut. Our line of ascent would be the popular Northwest Ridge via the “Kangaroo Patch” - a snow link that accesses the NW ridge. Aspiring is the highest peak outside Mt Cook/Aoraki National Park. A little apprehensive about my return to high guiding in NZ after the baby, I was reassured by my company of stalwart ladies. The weather – perhaps the greatest challenge in the Southern Alps – played nice, and we flew into Bevan Col on a fantastic day early in the new year. Michele was immediately enchanted by the antics of kea goofing around the hut, and the first afternoon was spent laughing at and photographing the capers of our rare alpine parrot. Arising at three the following morning, we gagged down tea and muesli and headed up on high. As dawn crept over the land, we were treated to a symmetrical shadow of Aspiring cast to the west – a vista that often rewards those who rise early in high places. Climbing on both rock

and snow, though never especially difficult, does require constant footwork focus. A section of shortroping took us within a stone’s-throw of the summit around 9am, but the final metres proved to be a vigorous slice of very hard snow. Perched near the summit (mountaineers are discouraged from going to the highest

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point out of respect for Maori beliefs), Michele was ecstatic in her realization of a dream of climbing in New Zealand. Tititea dropped away steeply on all sides. Three glaciers drain the mountain’s buttresses. The familiar Bonar glacier forms the southern and western aspects of the mountain while the Volta forms a mysterious

Te Wanaka Lodge offers warm, welcoming and homely bed & breakfast accommodation right in the heart of Wanaka. Escape for a few days, share in our piece of southern paradise and savour the tranquillity and spectacular surroundings that engulf you at Te Wanaka Lodge. 23 Brownston Street Wanaka, New Zealand 0800 WANAKA facebook.com/tewanaka www.tewanaka.co.nz


eastern barricade, and its neighbour the Therma glacier, sits to the north of the peak. The western vestiges of Aspiring National Park descended into the misty rainforest of Westland. Jungle mist was just beginning to swirl below. A careful retreat down our line of ascent had us back at Colin Todd hut in a respectable twelve hours. In an ideal twist, the following day was stormy, and we were hut-bound, spending the day eating, reading and chatting. Although the purists would argue the best style of ascent is to walk both in and out, it requires a significant commitment of time and energy. Our strategy of helicopter in and walk out meant an early departure from Colin Todd after the storm day. Crampons crunching across the frozen Bonar glacier, we descended the “Quarterdeck” route to the French Ridge hut for lunch. Mt Aspiring’s stunning position is enhanced by sections where

glaciers spill their icy mass over bluffs toward the scrub and forest below. One of these pour-over points, the Quarterdeck provides a convenient, yet abrupt ramp down from the Bonar. The well-appointed French Ridge hut is magnificently positioned on the crest of the ridge and is a worthy walk up from the Matukituki valley - for those with legs that can handle the almost vertical track. We descended that scrubby piece of New Zealand tramping and crossed a lazy Matukituki river a few hours later. Easing into spacious Aspiring hut about ten hours after leaving Colin Todd hut, worn and happy, we knew we’d scored the classic Mt Aspiring coup. We’d flown in and climbed in perfect weather, and we’d had a bonus rest day sitting out a quick Nor’west blast. The gorgeous walk out, on yet another stunning day, down through the valley to the road end, was a fitting end to a superb trip. It was awesome to be back. Mt Aspiring Photo by Mark Watson

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MacKenzie

TEKAPO: RELAX, REJUVENATE, HAVE FUN! by Rebecca Rothera

Mackenzie

From Christchurch, a 2.5 hour drive time to Tekapo makes it the perfect place to take a break and find out what’s happening in this gorgeous village on the edge of a turquoise lake.

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riving across the bridge into the village, I see the Information Centre, my first stop. David greets me with a charming beaming smile, and I just know he’s got something to sell me! Or perhaps he’s spotted someone wanting some easy options presented to them – and he’s right. “I know you’ve been here before, but how long it has been?” he begins. Smart man – how does he know, but I guess everyone has been through Tekapo at some stage. And that’s how I came to break my journey south and stay an extra day and a half here. I wish I could claim it had been my intention because Tekapo has used a magic mixing stick to create a whole lot of new experiences. No longer is it a quick stop to look at the lake or take a quick photo of the Church of the Good Shepherd or the bronze collie dog statue on a small windswept tussock hummock. David said that astro-tourism has really taken off since the Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve was given Gold Tier status in 2012. It’s

the world’s largest such reserve and recognised as one of the best stargazing sites in the world, with day and night tours. David tries briefly to tempt me to consider the 3 hour loop track walk up to the Mt John Observatory and back but even his powers of persuasion don’t work today,

especially when he said it was a 311m climb in the first 2 km! No, I want to have some serious pampering now he’s sold me on the idea of what’s on offer at Tekapo Springs. David identifies Tekapo as a new destination for family fun, serious relaxation and rejuvenation, romance under the stars, or for those just

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wanting to catch their breath. A group of cyclists brings youthful energy into the Information Centre, and I stand back to look at the jewellery and beautiful photographs on sale. David’s getting more drop-in cyclists from the 300km Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail, which ultimately links Aoraki Mt Cook with Oamaru. They want to know about accommodation (and there are plenty of choices for all budgets), kayaking, horse trekking and where to eat and drink. I eavesdrop as they plan to go to the hot pools later then do an Earth & Sky night tour. David says there are a lot more cyclists staying one or two nights, seeking out adventure activities, and it’s not just young people. Hundreds now, with thousands predicted in coming years, are riding along these cycle ways. There are more walkers on Te Araroa (The Long Pathway) that will ultimately link Cape Reinga with Bluff 3000km away. Walkers are doing the Two Thumb Track from the Rangitata River to Boundary Stream, walking along the road and through Lake Tekapo Regional Park, before joining up with the 70 km TekapoTwizel track. I was lucky enough to get a hotel room at Peppers Bluewater Resort on the main highway; there are rooms, apartments and villas available. It’s one of those low-height spread-out complexes that look just right in the environment, surrounded by tussocks and rocks reflecting the local area. The balcony overlooks a pond and out to the lake itself, with a

clear view up to tiny Motuariki Island. So now the serious business of being pampered can start, and only because it’s early in the week can I get an appointment at the Tekapo Springs Glacial Spa, part of Tekapo Springs Resort. All I have to do is

Cruise with us on Lake Tekapo Welcome aboard our Haines Hunter vessel for a leisurely cruise on stunning Lake Tekapo. See amazing vistas of the Southern Alps, Mt John, and the spectacular high tundra landscapes of the Mackenzie Country. • Scenic Highlights • Island Circuit • Grand Lake and Taste of Tekapo Cruise • Banana Boat fun • Guided Fishing by the hour or half/full days For reservations and information NZFREEPHONE 0800 797 675 info@cruisetekapo.co.nz

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wait for an hour, and that’s where I discover everything David said about this being a great family destination is true. For a start, there’s the Trippo Waterslide, a huge inflatable monster. It is the largest land-based inflatable


Enjoy the ultimate day out with something for everyone. From summer tube and water slide adventurers to spa devotees and hot pool worshippers, Tekapo Springs is the ideal attraction for couples, backpackers, honeymooners and the whole family! Hot Pools / Summer Tubing / Trippo Water slide / Day Spa / Cafe Check our website for opening dates.

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Small group, fully inclusive Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail Tours. Stay in boutique accommodation, eat amazing regional cuisine & let our experienced drivers share their local knowledge. Choose a 4 ,5 or 7 day tour or let A2O Cycle Tours design a private itinerary just for you and your friends...

“Thank you again for a truly memorable experience, you provided the greatest and most enjoyable service we have experienced in a very long time.” A Clark, Auckland For more information, just email A2O Cycle Tours at: tours@a2ocycletours.co.nz

A2OCycleTours.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com 64 0800 4 CYCLE

water slide in the world at 11 metres high and 52 metres long; a blue and yellow fantasy beneath the forest. There are three slide chutes fitted over the winter ice rink space. It is the only one of its kind in the southern hemisphere and was purchased in 2013 through Freestyle Slides in Florida. The three hot pools were shaped to reflect Lakes Tekapo, Pukaki and Ohau by owner Karl Burtscher, an ice hockey and snow sports enthusiast and Tekapo local who just eight years ago used a digger to start building this superb facility. The pool temperatures range from 36 – 40ºC, but the plunge pool is the same as the lake, 8-10ºC, so thank goodness for the Sauna and Steam Rooms. Above the pools is the newly refurbished Tekapo Springs Glacial Day Spa with its one-way windows looking across the lake to the Two

Thumb Range. I’m too late for the Tekapo Lake Ritual (which takes five hours) so I have to select between massage, manicure, pedicure and many other options that all sound fabulous. This is the only fixed day spa in the Mackenzie Basin, and I envy locals having such a facility open 10 am – 8 pm with easy parking and access. The pedicure is perfect, and my feet feel superbly refreshed, but not yet tempted to do that walkway up Mt John. No, I’m settling in for a pinot gris and something wholesome from the cabinet while I just sit and stare at the view and enjoy watching the efforts of others. There’s a free shuttle service between the pools and village accommodation options, on demand through 088 2 353 8283. It is one of the many innovations General Manager Cathy Hemsworth has


introduced over the last two years. “Our purpose is all about escaping, relaxing and having fun, regardless of age. We have our seasonal features and year round activities for our

visitors who just love coming here for the peace, beauty and great value, for a weekend or holiday.” I’m convinced; I’m not going any further on this journey.

STARGAZING TOURS OBSERVATORY TOURS ASTROPHOTOGRAPHY TOURS

Home to the

Aoraki Mackenzie Dark Sky Reserve

Let our knowlegeable astronomy guides navigate you around the wonders of our southern sky.

BOOK A TOUR WITH US TODAY:

www.earthandsky.co.nz email: info@earthandsky.co.nz Ph: +64 3 6806 960 LAKE TEKAPO www.gotravelnewzealand.com NEW ZEALAND 65


West Coast

A DAY IN PARADISE Photo by Murray Cave

West Coast

In 1865, Government surveyor Gerhard Mueller stumbled across a secret nesting site, deep in the dense native bush of South Westland. “Imagine seeing around you from 50 to 60 of these birds sitting in high pines and lower trees in a circle of about 150 yards,� he wrote to his wife on new years eve.

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T

his is the sight I had been hearing about and have wanted to visit for many years‌. we finally got to do it this breeding season and were not disappointed. We were visiting from the North island so needed to also fit in the usual travel haunts such as the Glaciers and Lake Matheson but the highlight for us was definitely a trip to the White Heron Sanctuary. We had heard that it was a must see but were absolutely blown away by the sight of those beautiful white birds all sitting in the trees with their fluffy little chicks beside them. The Sanctuary, about 30 km North of Franz Josef Glacier is part of the South West world heritage area and is home to an abundance of native birds . Tours to the area are run by White Heron Sanctuary Tours, under concession to The Department of Conservation. This is a sole concession so there is no other way to visit the

Visit NZ’s only White Heron Nesting site

White Heron Sanctuary Tours Whataroa Seasonal: September to end February

A unique experience White Herons, Royal Spoonbill & an abundance of other birdlife

Freephone 0800-523-456 info@whiteherontours.co.nz www.whiteherontours.co.nz Accommodation Available www.gotravelnewzealand.com

Endorsed visitor activity

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nesting site. And that to us seems the most sensible option given that the spot is pristine and precious. The sight is amazing and the plumage spectacular. The journey into the area on the jetboat also takes in majestic views of the Southern Alps and Mt cook above and silver flashes of trout in the crystal clear river below. Paradise ducks, oyster catchers, harrier hawks and pukekos frequent

the river edges, while cows graze almost gracefully in the paddocks we pass. Tui and bellbird sing their songs as we stroll through the pristine Rainforest which adorns the walking track heading into the viewing area. The setup is amazing, Dion our very informative guide is also the boat driver and handles it all with the greatest of ease, he was born and bred in the area so going into

the sanctuary with tourists comes naturally to him, in fact he shows a sense of passion and determination that for as long as he is in charge, this sight will not diminish for generations to come. Dion and his family also carry out predator control in the sanctuary so that the population of stoats and rats is kept under control. There is a kiwi sanctuary nearby so it is of great importance to keep predating, egg

the

grand traverse

experience the flight of a lifetime

Ranked #1 Lake Tekapo Attraction by Trip Advisor * * www.tripadvisor.co.nz September 2014

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hunting animals to a minimum Waitangi Roto is the only nesting site for White Heron in New Zealand, in early spring (September) these elegant birds arrive at the Sanctuary after wintering over in all other parts of New Zealand, ready to mate and produce another generation of Kotuku‌to the Maori “He kotoku rerenga tahiâ€? bird of a single flight, seen perhaps once in a lifetime. The hidden bend on the Waitangi Roto

River where the herons come each year is a magical place. Why the herons as well as Royall spoonbill and little shag choose to roost and nest on this single point of the river is a good question. This is the only place in the country where the herons nest and there are just a few places where the royal spoonbills breed. Kotuku are faithless birds, choosing new mates every year in

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Westport is a town built on coal extraction from wild and remote places like Denniston, Stockton and Millerton where daily life was a struggle and comfort a luxury. The various displays focus on formation of coal, maritime history, unionism, the communities, transport and men underground. We are a colourful and modern museum that brings the past to life, and links the past to the present.

123 Palmerston Street, Westport Ph: 03 789 6658 www.gotravelnewzealand.com 70 www.coaltown.co.nz

elaborate courtship rituals. Long whispy breeding plumes develop, their yellow bills turn black and the area round the eye turns emerald green. Once the chicks have hatched the viewing becomes entertaining, we photographed a parent touching down after being on a food gathering mission. Some of the tantrums the chicks would throw, flapping their wings and squawking as they clamoured for food. In some nests a tealy blue egg sat waiting to be turned and sat on again in

anticipation of hatching in the next few days. The Herons are not alone in this little stretch of paradise, The Royal Spoonbill also nests here and is also very entertaining to watch, with it’s long shovel like beak and the tuft of white feathers atop it’s head. The day of our visit, a couple of inquisitive Spoonbill sat in the Kowhai tree beside the viewing hide and proceeded to peek in at us! The Little Shag (cormorant) is the third nesting neighbour and they all seem to nest together for company and protection


in the Mahoe and broad leaf trees, although the Spoonbill tends to take the “high road” and nest in the tops of the Kahikatea trees which tower over the Sanctuary. There is the odd squabble when a White heron reaches down and takes a twig from a cormorant’s nest. Tours to the Sanctuary last two and a half hours from Whataroa and give visitors half an hour or more to watch and photograph the birds, The viewing hide, perched immediately at the rivers edge, straddles dense vegetation and

is purpose built to hold the same number of people that the boat will carry in to the area. The hide is equipped with binoculars and there are two levels allowing for groups to spread out with plenty of room for cameras and tripods.. The White Heron Tour is an absolute must for each and every one of those seeking birdlife, adventure, photography opportunities and just the unique experience one gets from being in a place like this. www.whiteherontours.co.nz

Whataroa, West Coast

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Hurunui

PUTTING THE SPRINGS BACK IN YOUR STEP: NEW ZEALAND’S ULTIMATE ESCAPE Hurunui

Every now and again, I feel the need to just down tools and escape. Ideally, to a place that feels a world away from anywhere, where I can walk, bike, get into nature and unwind, but have the comforts of quality accommodation, great restaurants, cafes and a bit of shopping on hand.

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month ago, on a whim, a friend and I headed to New Zealand and found the perfect place – a village so pretty it’s a real-life postcard. Hanmer Springs is 90 minutes drive north of Christchurch surrounded by mountains and forests with a quaint main street filled with boutiques, restaurants and an iconic thermal pools and spa complex. Best of all for us, the area is swathed in kilometres and kilometres of mountain bike and walking tracks…forests, lakes and sensational hillside lookouts, this place has it all. Getting there is easy – we flew into Christchurch International Airport, grabbed a rental car and hit the road. State Highway One, where you start the journey, is signposted from the airport. The drive takes you through a range of dramatic landscapes (vineyards, rivers, mountains and a giant frog-shaped rock!) so the trip flies past. You are soon crossing the bridge just before Hanmer Springs, and it is a view you will never forget. I’d booked our accommodation online (check out www. visithanmersprings.co.nz for tonnes of options). We were delighted to discover the bed and breakfast

lived up to its name with sumptuous rooms, clear views of the mountains and welcoming hosts – we felt totally at home. The number one attraction in the village is Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa, and we make this our first stop. We both agree that it is the best hot pools complex we’ve been to with dozens of pools ranging in temperature set among native gardens. There are rock pools, rainbow-lit pools and mineral-rich sulphur pools. There is a massive leisure area with hydroslides, fountains and the Super Bowl (a thrill ride you’d expect to see at Wet ‘n’ Wild). Sinking into those waters was sublime; you can almost see your stress floating away. Next morning, we wake refreshed and revived and ready to hit the trails. There are plenty of bikes for hire in the village, so we have no problem finding some. Hanmer Springs is known as one of the best places in New Zealand to mountain bike – it’s easy to see why. Not only does the village host several big mountain bike races (and running events) every year, it is surrounded by tracks. You can head to Hanmer Forest Park where there are plenty of flat and easy rides for beginners, or you

can tackle the Jacks and Jollies Passes where there are hill rides through spectacular country. Always a sucker for intriguing names (it’s also how I choose which racehorses to back!), I pick the Tank Track/ Yankee Zephyr and Red Rock combo. It’s an excellent challenge through forests with some steep climbs and fast downhills weaving through trees on a smooth single track. The drops get our adrenalin racing and the odd tree root challenges our negotiating skills. What’s best is the fresh mountain air. It’s a cool day by Aussie standards (but that’s why I enjoy biking in New Zealand) and my lungs heave in and out; the ultimate alpine cleanse. Afterwards, we still have an ounce of energy, and some time left on the bike hire, so we decide to tackle the Dogstream Track – which is more like a downhill log flume ride than hard work. A ten minute cruise down-hill on a nice flowing track with pretty cool views. It’s only a few minutes to bike back up the road to the top, so we fit in a couple of runs. Bike returned, lunch eaten and we start to feel the effects of our mammoth morning. It’s back to Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa, where we discover the glorious Hanmer Springs

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massaging jets and waterspouts of the Aquatherapy pools which soothe tired muscles. Afterwards, I head into The Spa (part of the complex) where a friendly smile greets me ahead of my facial appointment. I’m guided from changing room to the relaxation room where I enjoy some lemon water in my fluffy robe and slippers while I await my therapist. The treatment, a Seasonal Facial, is wonderful, and I drift off with the peaceful music, sweet smells and healing hands. Dinner that night is fabulous fine dining with plenty of local produce and exceptional wines. And, while there are plenty of places for a late night drink or coffee, we opt for an early night as there’s just one more ride we want to do before heading back to Christchurch and winging our way home. 10.00am the next morning and after a speedy shopping spree through some gorgeous boutiques, we farewell the village. We promise to return and make the most of all

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the other activities (including jet boating and bungy jumping) that are on offer (not to mention the phenomenal ride in the nearby St James Conservation Area). 45 minutes later, we are in the Waipara Valley on borrowed bikes in a leafy park, Glenmark Reserve, preparing for a rather different sort of ride. The Waipara Valley Vineyard Trail runs through vineyards and some historic farms with spectacular views. The wines produced in the Valley have won some top international awards, so we stop and take advantage of the tasting rooms en-route. We lunch at Black Estate enjoying sensational food in

their dramatic and funky building. I look over the rows of vines and think about what a wonderful slice of New Zealand we have discovered. Fast forward 48 hours and I’m back in Australia working at my desk. The boss is grumpy, my computer’s playing up and I’m ready to runaway again. Instead, I take a deep breath and imagine that alpine air is back in my lungs…you know you’ve had a relaxing break when just a memory of it can de-stress you days later. Even better is the comfort of knowing that next time I need to down tools and escape, Hanmer Springs is just a short flight and quick drive away. I will be back.


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Banks Peninsula

PENINSULA PARADISE by Valmai Becker

Banks Peninsula

I have lived on Banks Peninsula for 20 years – I love this place it has everything to satisfy the soul – two harbours formed from an enormous volcanic eruption, numerous beaches, stunning views, beautiful harbours, peaceful valleys, wetlands, bird life and the remnants of great forests. The volcanic origin of the landscape provides a perfect crater life. 76

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am driving home past Te Waihora (Lake Ellesmere) and Te Roto o Wairewa (Lake Forsythe); home to a huge variety of migrant and breeding bird species. At any one time over 98,000 birds can be found on the lakes – not sure who counted them all but a small rest area provides the perfect stop for a spectacular view of this vast wetland and the Southern Alps. I often meet visitors at this spot watching the glow of sunset and soaking up the fading warmth of the day. Once past the lakes, a right turn takes me around the head of Lake Forsythe and into the Okuti Valley reputed to be the second fastest tree growing valley in New Zealand. There certainly is a variety of stands of trees dotted on the hillsides. The pointy peak of French Hill and the flatter summit of Saddle Hill are two of the highest points on the Peninsula. I am a medical herbalist and 12 years ago I established Phytofarm– a herbal learning garden in the Okuti Valley. A Garden Tour includes the drying room where we blend herbal beverages from Elderflower, Rosehip, Peppermint, Licorice, Chamomile & Blue Hyssop. Everyone who walks into my drying room is overwhelmed by the warmth and intensity of the aroma of the drying herbs. You can make a first aid travel kit with Aloe Vera and seaweed gel for sunburn, an Insect

Repellent, and Calendula healing salve, and you’re ready to explore the great outdoors of the Peninsula. Okuti is a secluded western oriented valley and 4kms up the valley road is a native reserve. The birds’ dawn chorus is a treat as are the lowland forest trees such as kahikatea, totara, mahoe and kanuka. A favoured stroll of mine is to collect kawakawa leaves to make a healing salve or dry the leaves for a delicious “pick me up” herbal beverage. In the morning, I am down to the wild heart of Little River, the gateway to the Peninsula to talk to Stuart Wright-Stow about his SiloStay project. At the end of the rail trail, the silo accommodation is an ecofriendly innovative accommodation concept – yes a sound and luxury sleep in a grain silo. Stuart loves his industrial designs; it’s all about curves, corrugated iron and full of surprises with mood lighting and high-tech features. Each silo also has quirky elements; I like the kitchen utensils stored in an engineer’s tool chest. The industrial theme gives way to a luxurious first floor bedroom up a sculptural steel staircase. There is a balcony, star-gazing ceiling panel, and a curvaceous glass ablution cubicle. Stuart’s enthusiasm is infectious. I think I need a coffee and to peruse some fine New Zealand art in the Little River Gallery, before leaving this lowland gateway and heading

Valmai Becker processes calendula in the Okuti Valley

phyto farm HERBAL LEARNING GARDEN

Discover, learn, explore and indulge in the wonderful world of plant medicines at Phytofarm. Phytofarm is a medicinal plant farm dedicated to the growing and practical use of herbal medicine. This is where healing plants and kitchen pharmacy meet and medicine making begins.

Okuti Valley Road •Apprenticeships Little River •Garden Tours Banks Peninsula •Workshops New Zealand •Products +64 3 325 1314 •Retreats valmai@phytofarm.co.nz www.phytofarm.co.nz

find us on facebook www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Phytofarm Herbal Learning Garden, Little River

for the hills. A winding road takes me to hill top; a veer to the left and a short distance along the crater road towards the eastern bays is the car park for Montgomery Park. I make the short walk to view the remnants of the forests that once existed on Banks Peninsula. The volcanic escarpment shelters many large trees: five finger, broadleaf,

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mahoe, fuchsia and matai. Most impressively there is a 2000-year-old totara with a split trunk and an 8.5 metre girth – a salient ancient citizen of this enclave. A good walking track winds up to a stand of burnedout silvered tree trunks and views into the crater of Akaroa Harbour. Now is a good time to learn that panoramic feature on my digital camera.

The Hilltop Tavern run by the Fabian family is the perfect place for a mid-day snack. A wood-fired pizza topped with walnuts and blue cheese and a glass of Pinot Noir while sitting in a bean bag outside looking at the grand view of Akaroa harbour. I consider the Hilltop Tavern to be my local, there is more to this place than polished wooden floors


Pohatu Penguins POHATU PLUNGE - NEW ZEALAND

and fresh fish on the menu. Count the cars outside, and you will see they know how to choose good live music. If you are staying at SiloStay the hospitality of the Fabian family extends to collecting you in a minivan, entertainment for the evening and dropping you home – how good is that? Akaroa was my home for five years, so I am familiar with the quirks of this historic village. There are numerous activities to entertain including exploring coastline via launch. As he rows to work, Tony smiles; he is taking me out on Akaroa Harbour. Once onboard Tony’s classic Kauri launch we sneak along beneath steep cliffs and poke the bow of the boat into sea caves. Coast Up Close is aptly named, and Tony knows all the best spots above and below the water. His personal touch will make sure you get that wildlife photo you want no matter how long it takes. There is a moment of shared enthusiasm and I can tell that Tony’s work is something close to his heart. This is high-end cruising. Nestled among volcanic coastal cliffs on the remote, wild side of Banks Peninsula is the Pohatu Marine Reserve. Francis and Shireen Helps are the local experts on the day-to-day life of white flippered penguins; they have devoted 25 years to the conservation of penguin habitat and deserve the numerous awards they have received. For me viewing wild life up close always seems invasive but I am happy to

learn that a visit to the penguins is helping their preservation. These wee guys are so cute, tuxedo suits are impeccable and practical; that stylish countershading is a form of camouflage to keep them safe in the water. Looking at that clear aqua water I can’t help thinking that I should take advantage of the experienced guide. I would like to take a a guided kayak tour to view the rock stacks, impressive island arch and deep sea caves. Maybe one of those famous Hector Dolphins will swim by? I live in a crater that has filled up with water and turned into a playground. The walks improve my cardio vascular health, the coastal and harbour environment fills my lungs with sea air and blows away the cobwebs of daily life. I have more respect for the precious wild life and very much enjoy the people here who love their lives. It’s all good... . I am going to drop into that bean bag on the way home.

Pohatu Marine Reserve Sea Kayaking and 4wd nature safaris

Guided Sea Kayaking

Wonderful wildlife,Spectacular coastline

Evening 4wd penguin safaris

Largest Little Penguin Colony on the mainland

Scenic nature safaris

Scenery, nature and pet sheep to feed

Pohatu Package

Spend a night in the penguin colony 24 or 48 hour package including accommodation in the middle of the penguin colony

www.pohatu.co.nz M: 021 2469 556 www.gotravelnewzealand.com 79 E: tours@pohatu.co.nz


coast up close

Wildlife Scenic Cruises

Come see the dolphins...and more!

Adults $70 each Children 1-14 years $25 each

0800 126 278 80

www.gotravelnewzealand.com

www.coastupclose.co.nz

Akaroa, Banks Peninsula


PH: 03 3251 005

WOOD - FIRED PIZZA FRESH FISH CRAFT BEER STUNNING VIEWS LOCAL WINE PLATTERS LIVE MUSIC 81 WWW.THEHILLTOP.CO.NZ www.gotravelnewzealand.com


Kaikoura

Watching Whales, Watching Us by Alex Cuff

Kaikoura

No less than 50 metres from Whale Watch Kaikoura the ocean lies; a silent, clear mass, rhythmic against the shoreline. Gazing out, I am spellbound by its limitlessness as it reaches towards the horizon; the distinction between the deep navy of ocean and the clear azure of the sky becoming at first blurred and then non-existent.

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F

ormed in 1987 by the indigenous Ngati Kuri people (whose origins are to be found in the South Island’s Ngai Tahu tribe), Whale Watch was created in order to satisfy a need stemming from the Maori community’s unemployment difficulties. Whale Watch developed into an international award-winning

eco-tourism company and is a world leader when it comes to exploring and discovering sea life. Whale Watch is dedicated to the protection of marine wildlife and the care of the environment. Whale Watch’s respect, guardianship and passion for the whale species is evident in all aspects of the experience; from postcards at the booking centre to

the crews’ description of the whales as “spectacular” and “wondrous”. Glancing around the Whale Watch reception, tourists lined up on either side of me are bubbling with excitement as they book in. A safety briefing is carefully communicated on an overhead screen with an emphasis on child safety that makes everyone feel at ease. We make our

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way to the bus and are welcomed with a friendly greeting by our bus driver Willie. It is a short bus ride to the marina where Aoraki (named after New Zealand’s tallest mountain Mt Cook) is waiting for us. Aoraki’s four crew members are outside with eager smiles and greetings. We are seated, and our guide Rangi introduces us our captain Paki, senior captain Rex, and Hayley, who is chief whalespotter. Rangi starts the tour off by

1ST PEDAL KAYAK TOUR IN NEW ZEALAND EASY - NO UPPER BODY STRENGTH NEEDED - HANDS FREE

ALL TOURS ARE GUIDED WITH 100% CHANCE TO SEE SEALS WE RUN 3 TOURS DAILY, AMAZING SUN SET TOURS YOU CAN EITHER PEDAL OR PADDLE, ANYONE CAN DO IT - AGES 5+

WWW.LEVISPEDALKAYAKS.CO.NZ 84

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having us comically searching for our seatbelts until we finally realise that there aren’t any on a boat. Rangi’s relaxed nature and local wisdom are comforting as he navigates his way through safety procedures whilst keeping us laughing. Within minutes, we begin our journey out to sea and are instantly welcomed by marine wildlife as birds soar overhead, and seals bask in the sea’s stillness. There is a light breeze and the backdrop of snowy


mountains contrasted against the glistening ocean makes for a perfect postcard picture. Rangi directs our attention back to the main purpose of our visit; to see some of the world’s largest and most treasured creatures, whales. He tells us that Sperm whales are what we are most likely to see today as they frequently inhabit the Kaikoura continental shelf. Sperm whales are the largest of the toothed whales and can reach an average of 16 metres in length. They

also have the largest brain of any animal on earth. Rangi tells us how Sperm whales use a liquid substance called spermaceti to regulate their buoyancy. It can solidify or become liquid depending on whether the mammal wants to dive down for food or come back up for air. Rangi also tells us about other whales such as the Humpback and the Southern Right. With our search not lengthy at all, suddenly we hear news that there

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THE WHITE MORPH

H

Luxury

Accommodation

Waterfront Location 5 Star Premium Spa Studios 4 Star Deluxe, Family and Garden Studios Adjacent to Cinema & Dolphin Encounter 10 minutes walk to shops & restaurants

Reservation & Enquires Free Phone • 0800 803 666 Phone • +64 3 319 5014 Fax • +64 3 319 5015 Email • info@whitemorph.co.nz Web • www.whitemorph.co.nz

92 Esplanade, Kaikoura 86

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is a Sperm whale on the surface. The boat is positioned next to the whale; excited chatter and the “wowing” of ecstatic voices fills the air. Submerged just below the water’s surface the whale’s head is in full view. I quickly snap photos and then put my camera down to enjoy this moment of having such a vast magnificent and astonishing creature

right in our “backyard”. Everyone falls silent as they watch the whale taking in oxygen as he lounges in the calm water. Rangi tells us this is Manu, a resident whale of the Kaikoura canyon who isn’t here all year round, but always returns. We watch the whale for ten minutes before it arches its back and begins making its descent towards


the seabed with a signature flick of its tail. We are feeling exhilarated as we head off towards Barney’s Rock. Rangi tells us more about the other whales - Big Nick, Tiaki, Tutu and Noodle; all regular visitors to the Kaikoura canyon. A small pod of hector dolphins cruises past the boat. With a backdrop of the snow-

tipped Kaikoura ranges and the endless sea all around, it is hard to imagine anywhere else I would rather be than surrounded by Kaikoura’s marine life. Barney’s Rock is a fur seal colony; seals lounge in the sun on one side and hundreds of birds take shelter on the other. Seals nestle themselves in the indentations in the rocks. Baby

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seals play-fight and leap and tumble around their parents. Even though our main purpose is to see whales we are treated to Kaikoura’s vast marine life. Up to 70% of seabirds can be found in Kaikoura, making Whale Watch a pleasurable activity for bird-watchers. We head back to the spot where

WINGS

WHALES

Whale Watch flights from Kaikoura are an original way to view the magnificent sperm whales as they rest between hunting trip to the depths. The 30 minute flight also takes in the spectacular coastline and mountain scenery as a back drop. From our high wing aircraft everyone has a window seat, giving you excellent viewing and photographic opportunities. Our sighting record is 95%, with both whales and dolphins usually seen on a flight.

Book online or call the freephone: 0800 2CMOBY (226629) Email: info@whales.co.nz

Endorsed visitor activity

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we previously saw Manu in the hope that he is about to resurface. The boat comes to a stop, and Hayley begins the tracking process through echolocation. Whales spend 80% of their lives in complete darkness; they send out signals with each clicking vocalisation that allows them to see, as if briefly flicking a light switch.

As the clicks become, louder Hayley says that Manu is close to breaching the surface for air. Minutes later Manu ascends to visit us again. The sight of him is mesmerising as we all whisper in excitement as if not to disturb this precious moment. As the sun begins to descend behind the mountains, we begin


our leisurely return to land. Gliding through the water with sea spray at our sides and exhausted from the day’s excursion, we recline in our seats. It is a bitter-sweet moment as we wave goodbye to the crew from the departing bus. The sense of being suspended in air disappears, but the magnificent experience of Kaikoura’s immense sea creatures is etched into all of our memories and will stay with us for a lifetime. There is no doubt that I will be back again to visit Manu and his other wild ocean attractions.

Luxurious Kaikoura Beachfront Apartments Winner of Trip Advisor 2014 Travellers Choice Award Rated No.1 Accommodation in Kaikoura by Trip Advisor Rated Top Ten of 25 Accommodation Providers in the South Pacific Eight luxurious 5-star Qualmark-rated apartments just a stone's throw from the water's edge, and yet the closest luxury accommodation to the town centre. The Waves on Esplanade offers the ideal combination of lifestyle, location and a great holiday destination with the ultimate combination of expansive ocean and mountain views. Walk to the town centre and its award-winning restaurants, or down to Kaikoura's Whale Watch centre. All apartments have their own private balcony they are double glazed, smoke free, with heat pump/air conditioning and fully equipped with modern appliances and free wireless internet access. Bicycles and kayaks are available for those wishing to explore the outdoors, and scooters & skateboards for the children!

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Marlborough

Uncover New Zealand and Experience its Heart and Soul Marlborough

Choose to take a detour off the main tourist route when visiting a new country, and you will be so glad you did. Head ‘off the beaten track’ or into the ‘back country’ or ‘hinterland’ and discover places that you may not even realise existed.

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he word hinterland is defined as “an area lying beyond what is visible or known”. Many of New Zealand’s (NZ) most stunning, and often least visited areas, are several (often bumpy) kilometres from the state highway. If you want to see some of the world’s most exceptional, majestic and virtually untouched landscapes, make sure you don’t drive past the ‘turn off’. Heading south, just out of Blenheim (near the top of NZ’s South Island) there is a signpost to Molesworth. A signpost that so many drive past on the way to Kaikoura, Christchurch and Queenstown. Stop and turn right at that somewhat small road sign and you will uncover a vast land of history, stories and exceptional people. Drive into Marlborough’s hinterland or high country (as it is better known), and discover NZ’s true heart and soul. If you do, you will take home ever lasting memories, ‘must see’ slideshows and tales to wow friends and family. Marlborough, to most, is worldrenowned for being home to the best Sauvignon Blanc and can proudly claim to be one of the world’s premium wine producing regions. Still, Marlborough has so much more to offer, especially once you get off the sealed roads. In centuries gone by, Maori hunted Moa (giant flightless birds - now extinct) there and cultivated vast kumara (sweet potato) crops in the year-round sunshine. The region is still

well known for its lengthy sunshine hours. Early European settlers established NZ’s pastoral industry on the fertile rolling downs of the river valleys (the start of the NZ sheep jokes!). In 1873, a pioneering Scottish farmer and grape grower planted Marlborough’s first ever vineyard. Today Marlborough is mainly recognised for its wines that boast intense and distinct flavours, thanks to the make-up of this geographically diverse region. The subtle differences in soil and climate produce the characteristic tastes which belong to the wines grown in the varied vineyards across the district. To fully appreciate these very special wines, and to visit some of the world’s most scenic vineyards, it is well worth taking a tour with an experienced guide. The same goes for exploring the region further. The Molesworth Tour Company (MTC) is one local operator who will ensure you get the most out of your visit to Marlborough. With them, you can experience all that the region has to offer, especially what lies beyond the grapes. The Marlborough high country makes up almost three-quarters of the Marlborough region. NZ’s largest ever farm is the Molesworth Station - a 180,787 hectare expanse of challenging and majestic land. This rough cut jewel in Marlborough’s crown, is the highlight of the MTC’s tours, although they will take you to other jaw-dropping destinations and landmarks as well.

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Compare the great size of this one station to the region’s drawcard of 24,000 plus hectares planted in grapes. Take a drive or cycle, through the Molesworth and neighbouring stations, and you will uncover the ‘real’ Marlborough; steeped in history and boasting some of the most stunning, untouched and almost Jurassic landscapes. Marlborough is home to a people who are truly ‘down to earth’, exceptionally welcoming and bursting with stories of generations gone by. Sheep (jokes aside) really did play a great role in shaping Marlborough and the rest of the South Island. It was a few of the country’s early settlers who recognised the Marlborough high country as a perfect grazing and breeding ground and started to ship these wooly creatures over from Australia. During the mid 1800’s, some 24,000 sheep were driven south from Nelson through the Molesworth and this practice continued well into the 20th century. You have to see for yourself what they went through (especially those early settlers). By travelling through the land yourself you can get a real feel of what life was like living and farming in the region; how challenging the long walk was through the valleys, across swollen

rivers and over mountains whether moving sheep, or simply travelling, from one region to another. Marlborough has always been a region of abundant seafood, wildlife and fertile land. It was this that first drew Maori to the area and then the early settlers. These days, you can ‘taste’ the region through its intensely flavoured wines, craft beers, olive oils, bountiful seafood (Kai Moana), wild game, nuts, stone fruits and dairy produce. If you opt to see Marlborough with the Molesworth Tour Company*, you will have a number of opportunities to sample local produce and fine wines and beers. Matched with tales of days gone by, and photo opportunities around every corner, this makes it a tour of a lifetime. The Molesworth Tour Company offers one day personalised wine tours as well as the opportunity to take a trip back in time into the region’s hinterland. Meet locals who have called the region home for a few years and for generations. Connect with the landscape, soak up the atmosphere, and discover the lifestyle, heritage and history which all make Marlborough so very special. For more information, go to www.molesworthtours.co.nz Visit Marlborough and experience all it has to offer!


The Edwin Fox Ship and Visitor Centre

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he Edwin Fox Ship and visitor Centre is one of New Zealand’s best kept secrets. Situated in beautiful Picton in the Marlborough Sounds region it is not to be overlooked. The tales of its adventures are captivating. It is the last convict ship that took convicts to Australia and the last wooden immigrant ship to bring immigrants to New Zealand left in the world. The ship also operated as a troop carrier between England and India and the Crimea .The Ship came to be in Picton in the late 1800’s as a

pioneering refrigeration vessel for the lamb industry. The story of the saving of the vessel are also as captivating, bought for a shilling in 1965 by the newly formed society to save her from a watery grave. She now proudly sits alongside the Interislander ferry terminal in dry dock in perpetuity for future generations to enjoy. Step on board the ship and explore this very special piece of New Zealand’s heritage, visit the dry dock and visitor centre with original artworks of the ship.

This is a great all weather family friendly activity open every day from 9 am. 03 5736868/ edwinfoxsoc@xtra. co.nz/ www.edwinfoxsociety.com/ 1 Aukland st, Dunbar Wharf, Picton/ see Tripadvisor and Facebook.

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‘ONLY AT OMAKA’ by Graham Orphan

Well, I have sampled a few events over the years in both the North and South Islands and have also visited one or two airshows in other parts of the world. I thought I had a pretty good idea of what to expect from my first Classic Fighters Airshow, held at the historic Omaka Airfield, just 20 minutes drive from the Picton ferry terminal. I was wrong. 94

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he locals have this expression, ‘Only at Omaka’, which might sound a touch pretentious, if they didn’t all genuinely believe this with a disarming level of friendly enthusiasm and complete conviction! By the end of the weekend, I found out why they held this conviction, and had also come to understand how much of the show really could be performed ‘Only at Omaka’! You get the impression that because this is a small town event, everyone is punching above their weight, eager to provide a really good ‘show-and-tell’ for the visitors. And visitors do come; from all over New Zealand, all parts of Australia, and all around the world, to view truly unique event. So what makes it so special? Well for a start, the setting of Omaka Airfield provides the perfect amphitheatre, as the Wither Hills create the walls of a huge arena within which the aircraft perform. The Airshow is further supported by the traverse of the sun, which passes quietly and contentedly behind the

backs of the viewers for the whole day. Every exhibit is lit perfectly for the spectators without anyone ever having to squint into the sun. The airfield is completely grass covered, just as it has been since its first aircraft visitor, a WWI era Bristol Fighter, touched down in 1928. The organisers use this grass field as a canvas on which they paint a tableau through the day, mixing the aerial displays with complementary ground theatre to provide a complete package. d The aircraft line-up invariably includes a Bristol Fighter of the type that first appeared here all those years ago! It seems that Classic Fighters established a point of difference at the first show back in 2001. A World War One setting was introduced; an occupied French chateau, replica WWI tanks from both sides and a dummy aeroplane to be destroyed by enemy shelling. There was also the first assembly of multiple WWI aeroplanes flying in the skies above the show – and so the stage was set! The Omaka ‘Props Team’ have made quite a name for themselves ever

since with their creative productions. One year they went as far as building a full-scale German V-2 rocket (over 14 metres high!). Mounted on an accurate trailer, which raised the huge missile to the launch position before the rocket motor started pouring flames out the bottom. The rocket actually began to lift off the ground before being destroyed by the strafing Spitfires and Kittyhawks. It is clear that no airshow in the world goes this far to impress the public with their ground theatre, but

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at Omaka it has become the norm. These shows are also different in that they are themed every year. One year the theme was ‘North Africa’ for which sphinxes and a very large pyramid were produced. When the theme was ‘France’, a magnificent scaled replica of the Eiffel Tower was built. It was so big (at around 22 metres high) that the Civil Aviation Authority would only approve it after a flashing red light was fitted to the top. Another ‘Only at Omaka’ experience is the museum for which the airshow is a fundraiser. I was really not prepared for what I was to experience when I walked into

this facility. Omaka Aviation Heritage Centre is unlike any museum I have ever seen before and you really owe it to yourself to set some time aside to take this in as it is quite an experience. Formed by the New Zealand Aviation Museum Trust during the late 1990s, it counted amongst its founding members film Director Sir Peter Jackson whose passion for WWI aviation is now well-known. His involvement has provided the means to create an immersive experience using some of the most innovative displays I have ever seen, coupled with an incredible collection of

priceless aircraft and artifacts. The Trust is now working towards the establishment of the WWII displays halls, where the same display philosophy will be applied to the 1939-45 conflict. All profits from the airshow will be donated to support this effort. Getting back to Classic Fighters, the WWI theme plays a strong part in the show. Again, Sir Peter Jackson’s influence comes to the fore; over a dozen WWI aircraft do battle in the skies over Omaka whilst ground battles ensue, complete with period tanks, equipment and soldiers. A feature that has become standard

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at the Classic Fighters show is the addition of ‘The Magnificent Seven’ flight of Fokker Triplanes of the infamous ‘Jasta 11’, the Richthofen squadron. The squadron is led by the all-red Triplane of none other than ‘The Red Baron’, Manfred von Richthofen himself. Watching these seven ungainly machines clawing for height to take on the aeroplanes of the British Royal Flying Corps, is a bizarre vision in itself; a sight not seen anywhere in the world, other than at Omaka, since 1918. There are several other aspects that come under the ‘Only at Omaka’ heading. These include the number of individual private collections (quite apart from Sir Peter’s) that are based at Omaka. One is the ‘Chariots of Fire Fighter Collection’; a young and growing collection that owns a number of machines that won’t be seen anywhere else. Included in the Collection are WWI aeroplanes, a rare and soon to be completed Spitfire Mk.XIVe, and most importantly, the German Focke-Wulf Fw190 WWII fighter. This awesome Luftwaffe warbird must be the loudest and angriest aeroplane ever built. When it displays over Omaka, it is the only place this side of the Equator where you’ll see this remarkable aircraft in action. An unexpected bonus for me, arriving as I did on Good Friday for the more casual ‘practice day’ of the show, was the event that they call the ‘Twilight Extreme’. Watching WWII fighter aircraft doing their aerial ballet to the setting sun, provided opportunities to create some very evocative photographs of Spitfire, Corsair etc., silhouetted against a sky of pure gold. As the sun went down, the stage came to life with

some excellent musical acts playing a range of familiar songs, all leading to a surprisingly good fireworks display above the airfield. Throughout the weekend, the range of flying displays continued to impress; from the massive WWI set-piece in the air and on the ground through to the RNZAF displays with parachutes, military helicopters and the Air Force’s Boeing 757 transport. The Boeing whistled past our noses at great speed and seemingly at grandstand height. The broad variety of historic aircraft displays continued through to the huge WWII display at the end of the day. Air and ground forces enacted a huge battle sequence with vast amounts of pyrotechnics and props supporting troops and vehicles. It certainly is a very high caliber show. So what did I really think of my first ‘Classic Fighters’ airshow? Well, I think the locals are right. ‘Only at Omaka’ pretty much sums up my experience as so many of the things that made the show special for me are simply not seen anywhere else. The range and quality of wine and food is also worth mentioning (mindful that the province of Marlborough is New Zealand’s premier wine growing region). The range of general tradestalls selling all manner of things from aviation items and toys to unique locally made craft items and souvenirs ensured that the three days were just not long enough to take everything in. I found that most people I spoke to from overseas and from around New Zealand have never missed a Classic Fighters show since the first one they attended. Like them, I will be back again to experience all of these amazing things that really can be seen ….’Only at Omaka’!

Email: bookings@themailboat.co.nz www.themailboat.co.nz NZ PH: 03 574 1088 International: +64 3 574 1088

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Nelson

THE FINER THINGS IN LIFE Nelson Tasman

As an avid appreciator of the finer things in life, I fell in love with Nelson the moment I read the Tourism Board’s marketing spiel: “To visit the Nelson Tasman region is to discover azure skies and wide open spaces, beaches and lakes, spectacular national parks and unique landforms, vineyards and gourmet cafes, artists and galleries, entrepreneurs and boutique shopping experiences...a uniquely Nelson way of life.”

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ut we all know marketing speak is designed to attract and appeal, so I set off to discover if the “uniquely Nelson way of life” was all it was cracked up to be. And I certainly wasn’t disappointed. Flying direct from Auckland, I was surprised to discover that Air New Zealand services flights to Nelson ten times daily, proving the marketing speak is working and that this is no flash in the pan holiday destination. In fact, as we land the air hostess welcomed us all to “the sunshine capital of New Zealand” and smugly commented that “if you’re lucky enough to call Nelson home then welcome back.” A bit of research showed I had a

lot to do in my five days in paradise. Collecting my rental car I immediately set off to the Saturday market, which I had been told was a must-see in the central city. The market is made up of brightly coloured stalls stocked with fresh fruit and vegetables, baked bread and fragrant cheeses, home grown flowers, hand crafted fashion and art. I quickly realised I had better get ready to drop a bit of cash and invest in some gourmet delights. Setting up a mini picnic on one of the trestle tables, I devoured chutneys and hummus on organic pita and soaked up the atmosphere of a creative, bustling community going about its weekly ritual. With live music and the laughter of hundreds of people happily enjoying the

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vibrancy, one could be forgiven for thinking you were in the middle of the Mediterranean. As the afternoon wore on I felt I should probably burn off my excessive food consumption. I set off up the Centre of New Zealand – a 45 minute walk up the central city hill allowing 360-degree views of the city and the Tasman Bay which surrounds it. I befriended a local couple who suggested it would be unseemly not to stop for a beer at the bottom at the local ‘Sprig and Fern’ pub. Nelson, they proudly told me, is the Craft Brewing Capital of New Zealand due to it being the only place hops successfully grow in the country. While not always a beer fan, the Sprig and Fern offered me over 18 choices, plus local cider and wine, so I settled

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in and congratulated myself on my day’s exertions. The next morning the sun rose spectacularly over the water at my hosted B&B Wakefield Quay House. The fun-loving couple who own this beautiful villa set me up on their waterfront deck with a breakfast fit for a queen. I’d need it; they told me, if I was to spend the next few days hiking and kayaking the Abel Tasman National Park. Of course being a little spoilt, I had opted for the Wilsons Abel Tasman 3-day hike and kayak combo. I would have my bags transferred by water taxi, be fed and watered in gourmet fashion, and overnight in beachfront lodges with crisp white linen and hot showers. I admired the young backpackers I saw at the


On day two we set out by kayak to visit New Zealand Fur Seals cavorting on offshore islands, and they inquisitively take to the water to see who these large floating visitors might be. My guide tells me he’s even seen curious seal pups leap on board kayaks to explore further! On completing the 55 kilometre Abel Tasman National Park, I knew there was one spot left to discover before I had to depart the sunshine capital of New Zealand – the perfectly named Golden Bay. This remote spot on the West Coast of the top of the South Island is home to the epic and beautiful Farewell Spit. The 35 kilometre long sand spit is home to hundreds of bird species and incredible windswept sand dunes. Exploring this landscape by both four wheel drive bus and horseback I couldn’t help but feel like I’d discovered the end of the earth – but even so, as lunch was served I realised the gastronomic What’s On delights continued with fresh local seafood and crusty home at t ndleligh • 21 Dec Carols by Ca baked bread. Washbourn Gardens Departing Nelson Airport I s vie Mo mmer • 6 Jan onwards - Su idly wonder if my jeans feel a Alfresco little tighter than when I left, Cardboard Race • 25 Jan Tata Titanic but I realise that loving the finer al stiv minate Fe • 28 Jan – 4 Feb Lu things in life sometimes means r be am Cham • 29 Jan – 7 Feb Ad making sacrifices. As I lay back Music Festival and listen to the flight attendant lta no nica Mi • 31 Jan – 15 Feb Ko welcome us on board she says Bikefest “If you’re leaving us here in od Fo d an r Wine • 15 Feb Brightwate Nelson, we’re sad to see you Festival go” And I realise that I’m sad et Crick • 16 Feb – 19 Feb ICC to be leaving too. World Cup r Tou ry h Wine • 27 Feb Marlboroug

start of the trail, loaded up with their tents and portable stoves. However, admiration and participation are two very different things, and I took great delight in knowing that I would sleep like a princess each night. The Abel Tasman National Park looks like a picture postcard every step you take. The golden beaches contrast perfectly with the clear blue water and the native bush sets off the scene like a painting. As I hiked, my guide described the local history, explaining that this National Park was where New Zealand was first discovered – by Dutch explorer Abel Tasman. Local conservation efforts have protected the park for many years. The Abel Tasman Birdsong Trust initiative means you are woken each morning to the incredible song of protected native New Zealand birds almost unknown to the rest of the country.

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Wellington

Wellington in a Pint and on a Plate by Neil Miller

Wellington

Although born in faraway bonny Scotland, I have spent most of my life in Wellington and certainly my entire beer drinking career here. As such, I am ideally placed to offer a few recommendations on the best places in the Capital to enjoy craft beer, eat well and see the sights. I’m also the current New Zealand Beer Writer of the Year, a professional tour guide and part-owner of a pub.

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hat is why it should be no surprise that the first venue I recommend is the one I hold a small stake in – the Fork & Brewer on Bond Street in the heart of the CBD. The Fork, as it is affectionately known, is a brewpub, meaning they make beer right on the premises. You cannot miss it; the shining 1,000 litre brewery is the first thing patrons see as they enter the bar. Highly regarded brewer Kelly Ryan is often seen ducking among the tanks, producing a crisp, clean Bohemian Hipster Pilsner, punchy hoppy Base Isolator APA and a range of speciality beers. The old saying is that beer is best drunk in the shadow of the brewery – that is actually possible at the Fork & Brewer. With 40 taps and fridges full of bottled beer, the Fork offers over 100 different beers at any given time. Offerings range from international favourites to craft oddities from tiny breweries. Knowledgeable staff will help guide your choices, but the best start is a tasting paddle of four Fork & Brewer beers. This should be accompanied by a bowl of the Fork’s trademark chicken wings; the spice rub is made using spent grain from the brewery and packs a punch.

Pizzas, burgers, steaks, salads and entrees are all on the menu, and each expertly matched with a beer style. If I am not in my favourite seat at the Fork, the best place to look is my favourite seat at Malthouse. This highly decorated bar located on Courtenay Place, Wellington’s Party Central, boasts the largest range of beer in the country with over 160 available. Service is top notch; food is simple and hearty, but the ever-changing beer selection makes the place. The busiest days of the

year here are for the West Coast IPA Challenge where brewers compete to make unique, hoppy, American inspired ales. I spend a lot of time, particularly in the summer months, at the Rogue and Vagabond, a funky pub with attitude, craft beer, woodfired pizzas and an adorable bulldog called Bruce. Live music is a feature, and you have not truly lived until you are reclining in a bean bag in the park, sipping ale and listening to the Wellington Ukulele Orchestra play a live set. Golding’s Free Dive

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Showcasing Wellington and beyond with the personal touch.

Travelling in a dedicated luxury 4WD for your group, we offer a range of personalised tours to help you get the most out of your visit to Wellington Lord of the Rings and Hobbit Tours (Incl. Weta Cave and Film Locations)

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is another favourite; a post-modern dive bar with character, fine beer and an amazing style. From skis on the ceiling to rubber ducks above the door to their trademark stuffed ferret, Golding’s is a destination. Close by is ParrotDog, a relatively new brewery run by three cool young guys all called Matt. Visitors can have a look around the brewery, chat with the brewers and buy beer fresh from the tanks. Fortunately, someone has done the hard work and put all of Wellington’s craft beer bars and breweries on a hugely useful interactive map at Craft Beer Capital (www.craftbeercapital.com). There is a short description of each venue and an up-to-date list of what is pouring. Wellington picked up the Craft Beer Capital title because we are the city that drinks the most craft beer by far. On the rare occasions, I am pried away from Wellington’s craft beer scene; there is a wealth of dining choices. At the high end of the scale are Ortega Fish Shack and Hippopotamus. Do not let the shack

moniker fool you – Ortega is a fivestar restaurant rightly known for its seafood, fine wine, craft beer and the best cheese selection in town. Hippopotamus is an elegant Frenchinspired dining room in the charming Museum Hotel. The food and service are top notch. Wellington boasts a wealth of ethnic cuisine including Chinese, Japanese, Thai, Korean, Malaysian, Indian, Lebanese, Turkish, Tibetan and Mongolian. One of my favourites is the Big Thumb Chinese restaurant, handily located around the corner from Malthouse. Carnivores should make the short journey out to Petone to feast on ribs and steaks at Uncle Mike’s Kansas City BBQ. Natives of Kansas have proclaimed it as good as home. All foodies should check out the City Market held on the Waterfront every Sunday. A range of the region’s best producers are there in person, and there is every chance celebrity chef Martin Bosley will be cooking up his famous bacon sandwiches. The two biggest sightseeing


attractions are Te Papa and the Cable Car. Te Papa is a modern, interactive museum and rightly renowned internationally. The historic Cable Car offers unparalleled views of the city from a piece of genuine transportation history. It’s very therapeutic. Sir Peter Jackson’s Weta Workshop is a hugely popular destination with a dazzling display of props and effects. Smaug the Dragon is currently hanging out in Wellington airport. For the record, I was one of about a dozen New Zealanders not involved in Lord of the Rings or the Hobbit. One of the many joys of Wellington is that it is compact and walkable. My favourite stroll is along the waterfront, checking out the public art, the boats and the cafes. For a completely different experience, explore Cuba Street – the bohemian heart of Wellington, home to many hipsters and site of our famously ineffective but much-beloved bucket fountain. It is a fountain made of buckets that occasionally work, but more often splash delighted children with water. Wine lovers should make the drive to the wine growing Wairarapa region, checking out the vineyards at Martinborough and the famous craft shops of Greytown. As we say around here, you can’t beat Wellington on a good day!

IT’S THE PERFECT

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AND YOU’RE INVITED The Fork & Brewer is Wellington’s high temple of beer-infatuated cuisine. Make a date for lunch or dinner, book your function, or just pop in to enjoy a bite with one of our house-brewed specialties. We’d love to see you.

Open: Mon-Sat, 11.30am till late Address: 14 Bond St, Wellington Phone: 04 472 0033 Website: forkandbrewer.co.nz

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Wairarapa

THE WAIRARAPA: SIMPLY WONDERFUL by Sarah Shuttleworth

Wairarapa

In an instant, the darkness of the tunnel disappeared and the train emerged out the other side of the Rimutaka Hills; the rolling countryside of Wellington’s Wairarapa region now in full view. Back in the late 1800’s this train would climb right over the top of the steep range; now the trip from Wellington to the Wairarapa is a lot faster and the scenic ride takes a little more than an hour. 106

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airarapa is one of New Zealand’s top food and wine destinations, home to more than 50 wineries and world famous for its pinot noir. The small towns of Martinborough, Greytown and Featherston, are packed with quaint character and charm, and the region is also host to spectacular valleys and coastlines with a rich natural history. We had decided to escape the windy city for a weekend away and took the chance to explore both the countryside and the small towns encased in the region. My travel partner and I were met at the Solway train station by Stuart Orme from Wildside Walks for a day of adventure. Stuart offers tailor made free range hunting, trout fishing or guided walking trips (often with a helicopter ride to your first destination). All of Stuart’s trips give people a true Kiwi experience and showcase some of New Zealand’s most beautiful and untouched backcountry. We began our journey with a cross-country trip heading south east of the mainland, travelling through the valleys and over ridges to the rugged coast of the Pacific Ocean. The area is aptly named Ko Te Kahu, meaning flight of the hawk, and comprises of 4700 acres of private land and a secluded four kilometers of coastline. Ko Te Kahu is home to a huge number of natural wildlife including a colony of 400 seals, wild bulls, plenty of native birds, and a unique number of wild deer. It is also home to The

Lodge at Honeycomb Rock, our accommodation for the night. Bridget and Alister Reid, the owners of the property and The Lodge, have a wealth of knowledge on the area and are passionate about sharing it with others. The lodge is a little slice of luxury in the wilderness, offering fully catered and hosted accommodation. After settling in, we went down to the beach to collect driftwood for a bonfire. We

then rode south; crossing a river to settle in and watch the deer emerge into bush clearings to feed and play – magic! By the time we returned Alister had lit the bonfire and the unique honeycomb rocks, caused by weathering, were the perfect place to keep in the heat. Beside the warmth of the fire, we watched the sun go down with a glass of wine in hand – this simple but wonderful experience is something I will not forget. When

Coney’s

Coney Wines Cellar Door and Vineyard Restaurant Hours: (Weekends and Public Holidays) Cellar Door: 11 – 4 Restaurant 12 – 3

December to March (Friday/Saturday/Sunday/Public Holidays) Cellar Door: 11 – 4 Restaurant 12 – 3

Phone 06 306 8345 107 info@coneywines.co.nz

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the last of the sun had disappeared behind the hills, we retreated inside for dinner – perfectly cooked venison complete with local wines to match. Stuart was up at sunrise the next morning; I had mentioned how much I loved paua (New Zealand abalone), and he was determined to have some on the breakfast menu. Wandering out onto the deck with a morning cuppa to watch the seals playing on the rocks, I spotted Stuart in the distance emerging from the sea with paua in hand! Breakfast was a real treat, what a way to end our stay. After saying our goodbyes, we headed back to the mainland to Patuna Farm for one last spot of adventure. Patuna Farm Adventures offer amazing horse trekking opportunities, as well as a high ropes courses, clay bird shooting, and access to the Patuna Chasm walkway and the Little Red Hutt accommodation. There are many horse treks of different length to select, from a gentle ride along the Flats for children and beginners to

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the Ridge Top Ride with incredible views of South Wairarapa. We chose the river ride, a two-hour trek meandering through the Ruakokopatuna river. Michelle, our guide, made me feel so comfortable and even as a beginner I was able to fully enjoy the trip and soak up the picturesque scenery. A trip to Martinborough would not be complete without wine tasting, so next on the agenda was a visit to wineries Poppies Martinborough and Coney Wines. The region is big on cycle tourism and many people choose to hire a bicycle and pedal their way through the vineyards. Poppies is a boutique winery offering beautiful, hand-crafted wine sold from the cellar door. Wine maker Poppy led us through a tasting; her and husband Shayne are incredibly welcoming, and their passion and love for what they do is evident from the moment you step through the door. I was particularly taken by their 2013 pinot noir which has a rich yet fruity palate, it matched perfectly with the smoked salmon on our vineyard

platter, a delicious selection of local produce. We then moved on to the nearby Coney Wines; their cellar door and Trio Cafe sit next to the vineyard giving it a relaxed, romantic feel. Tim has a great sense of humour, and he took us through the tasting. His Pizzicato 2010 pinot noir recently won gold at the UK International Wine Challenge, proving their wine truly is world-class. My travel partner could not leave without a bottle of the spritzy Ritz Riesling, and according to Tim the perfect match to ‘blue cheese and idle gossip’. We then ventured on to olive grove Olivo and artisan cheesery and deli C’est Cheese. Olivo is the oldest commercial olive grove in Martinborough and the property hosts a whopping 1200 olive trees and a beautifully kept five acre garden. Helen was working on the garden when we arrived, and walked us to the tasting room, explaining along the way how the olives get from the trees to the bottle. We tasted and compared two different years of their extra virgin olive oil


and their unique oil infusions such as porcini, orange, and smoked paprika. C’est Cheese, located in Featherston, is reasonably new to town but judging by the number of visitors it has certainly filled a gap in the market. They sell and offer tastings of specialty cheeses from more than 20 different producers and platter accompaniments such as gourmet chutneys, olive oils and breads. We were lucky enough to sample owner and cheese maker Paul Broughton’s own cheese that he is working on to sell in store in the near future. On the train back to our everyday lives, we reflected on our wonderful trip, realising we only just scratched the surface of what the Wairarapa has to offer. We began planning our next visit, perhaps this time a shopping trip to the boutique community of Greytown, with a winery visit or two! In an instant, the darkness of the tunnel disappeared and the train emerged out the other side of the Rimutaka Hills; the rolling countryside

of Wellington’s Wairarapa region now in full view. Back in the late 1800’s this train would climb right over the top of the steep range; now the trip from Wellington to the Wairarapa is a lot faster and the scenic ride takes a little more than an hour. Wairarapa is one of New Zealand’s top food and wine destinations, home to more than 50 wineries and world famous

for its pinot noir. The small towns of Martinborough, Greytown and Featherston, are packed with quaint character and charm, and the region is also host to spectacular valleys and coastlines with a rich natural history. We had decided to escape the windy city for a weekend away and took the chance to explore both the countryside and the small towns

Honeycomb Lodge

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encased in the region. My travel partner and I were met at the Solway train station by Stuart Orme from Wildside Walks for a day of adventure. Stuart offers tailor made free range hunting, trout fishing or guided walking trips (often with a helicopter ride to your first destination). All of Stuart’s trips give people a true Kiwi experience and showcase some of New Zealand’s most beautiful and untouched backcountry. We began our journey with a cross-country trip heading south east of the mainland, travelling through the valleys and over ridges to the rugged coast of the Pacific Ocean. The area is aptly named Ko Te Kahu, meaning flight of the hawk, and comprises of 4700 acres of private land and a secluded four kilometers of coastline. Ko Te Kahu is home to a huge number of natural wildlife including a colony of 400 seals, wild bulls, plenty of native birds, and a unique number of wild deer. It is also home to The Lodge at Honeycomb Rock, our accommodation for the night. Bridget and Alister Reid, the

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owners of the property and The Lodge, have a wealth of knowledge on the area and are passionate about sharing it with others. The lodge is a little slice of luxury in the wilderness, offering fully catered and hosted accommodation. After settling in, we went down to the beach to collect driftwood for a bonfire. We then rode south; crossing a river to settle in and watch the deer emerge into bush clearings to feed and play – magic! By the time we returned Alister had lit the bonfire and the unique honeycomb rocks, caused by weathering, were the perfect place to keep in the heat. Beside the warmth of the fire, we watched the sun go down with a glass of wine in hand – this simple but wonderful experience is something I will not forget. When the last of the sun had disappeared behind the hills, we retreated inside for dinner – perfectly cooked venison complete with local wines to match. Stuart was up at sunrise the next morning; I had mentioned how much I loved paua (New Zealand abalone), and he was determined to have some on the breakfast menu.

Wandering out onto the deck with a morning cuppa to watch the seals playing on the rocks, I spotted Stuart in the distance emerging from the sea with paua in hand! Breakfast was a real treat, what a way to end our stay. After saying our goodbyes, we headed back to the mainland to Patuna Farm for one last spot of adventure. Patuna Farm Adventures offer amazing horse trekking opportunities, as well as a high ropes courses, clay bird shooting, and access to the Patuna Chasm walkway and the Little Red Hutt accommodation. There are many horse treks of different length to select, from a gentle ride along the Flats for children and beginners to the Ridge Top Ride with incredible views of South Wairarapa. We chose the river ride, a two-hour trek meandering through the Ruakokopatuna river. Michelle, our guide, made me feel so comfortable and even as a beginner I was able to fully enjoy the trip and soak up the picturesque scenery. A trip to Martinborough would not be complete without wine tasting, so next on the agenda was a visit to wineries Poppies Martinborough and Coney Wines. The region is big on cycle tourism and many people choose to hire a bicycle and pedal their way through the vineyards. Poppies is a boutique winery offering beautiful, hand-crafted wine sold from the cellar door. Wine maker Poppy led us through a tasting; her and husband Shayne are incredibly welcoming, and their passion and love for what they do is evident from the moment you step through the door. I was particularly taken by their 2013 pinot noir which has a rich yet fruity palate, it matched perfectly with the smoked salmon on our vineyard platter, a delicious selection of local produce. We then moved on to the nearby Coney Wines; their cellar door and Trio Cafe sit next to the vineyard giving it a relaxed, romantic feel. Tim has a great sense of humour, and he took us through the tasting. His Pizzicato 2010 pinot noir recently won gold at the UK International Wine Challenge, proving their wine truly is world-class. My travel partner could not leave without a bottle of the spritzy Ritz Riesling, and


according to Tim the perfect match to ‘blue cheese and idle gossip’. We then ventured on to olive grove Olivo and artisan cheesery and deli C’est Cheese. Olivo is the oldest commercial olive grove in Martinborough and the property hosts a whopping 1200 olive trees and a beautifully kept five acre garden. Helen was working on the garden when we arrived, and walked us to the tasting room, explaining along the way how the olives get from the trees to the bottle. We tasted and compared two different years of their extra virgin olive oil and their unique oil infusions such as porcini, orange, and smoked paprika. C’est Cheese, located in Featherston, is reasonably new to town but judging by the number of visitors it has certainly filled a gap in the market. They sell and offer tastings of specialty cheeses from more than 20 different producers and platter accompaniments such as gourmet chutneys, olive oils and breads. We were lucky enough to sample owner and cheese maker Paul Broughton’s own cheese that he is working on to sell in store in the

near future. On the train back to our everyday lives, we reflected on our wonderful trip, realising we only just scratched the surface of what the Wairarapa

has to offer. We began planning our next visit, perhaps this time a shopping trip to the boutique community of Greytown, with a winery visit or two! Patuna Farm Adventures

Patuna Farm Adventures located on a working sheep and beef farm, 18 kms from Martinborough a vibrant wine village, world renowned for its pinot noir.

Patuna Farm offers something for everyone from a beautiful limestone chasm river walk, to Claybird shooting with a 12 gauge shot gun. Enjoy a scenic horse ride from one hour to all day. For the adrenaline seekers, try the 'Pole to Pole' high ropes course. Complete your visit with a stay in the romantically renovated Shearers Quarters; "The Little Red Hut".

PH 06 3068480 / 0276331337

www.patunafarm.co.nz

michellehight@yahoo.co.nzwww.gotravelnewzealand.com OR info@patunafarm.co.nz 111


Whanganui

Take a Fresh Look at Whanganui…

Wanganui

Whanganui is a favourite weekend getaway destination for people from all over the country. The river city is easily accessible - two and half hours’ drive from Wellington or just an hour’s plane flight from Auckland.

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M

arilyn Head escaped for a long weekend from her job as policy analyst in Wellington and arranged to meet friends from Auckland at the Whanganui River Traders market. They bought fresh, locally grown fruit, vegetables, goat cheese, hangi, puha pesto, and a chic Russian-style possum fur hat. “The market is just the right size,” Marilyn says. “You don’t feel hassled or overwhelmed and people here have time to talk and help you out. Everything is so affordable and such good quality. We saw stunning displays of art at the i-SITE upstairs gallery. The glasswork is out of this world. I love the fact that it’s ordinary people making unpretentious statements about their environment and bringing beautiful things into our lives.” Marilyn is not alone is her discovery of the attractions and activities that make Whanganui a great place to visit. Visitor numbers are increasing as people learn more about the city that was once the fourth largest in New Zealand. With such an

extensive heritage from both the Whanganui River iwi and early European settlement, history abounds with modern cafés and events, accommodation for all budgets and the easily accessible and beautiful natural environment. Newly open is the largest

Yeti Tours Rent canoes and kayaks, Whanganui River, New Zealand Free Phone: 0800 32 23 88

permanent exhibition of moa bones in the world, rightly at home in the Whanganui regional Museum. The Museum’s collection of over 1000

What’s on?

torcycle • Cemetery Circuit Mo Day, 26th xin Street Races – Bo g December, 2014 ampionships • V8 NZ Jet Sprint Ch 20 – 27th December, 14 ek – 5th to • Wanganui Opera We 16th January, 2015 Weekend – • Whanganui Vintage 15 ary 15th to 19th Janu , 20 th 30 – s • NZ Masters Game 2015 ary bru January to 9th Fe nts/

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Explore the historic, cultural unique and isolated Whanganui National park Nowhere else in NZ can you experience a trip that is so uninhabited and untouched by the masses. Does having no access (other than by river)..no phones and no power appeal too you?

This is where the real adventure begins.. Yeti tours has been providing canoes, kayaks and gear to all walks of life and ages for 30+ years. 2-8 day Guided Tour or Freedom hire. Priced from $120 per person. Check out www.yetitours.co.nz for more info and experience NZ at its best! Mention this advert to receive a

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Yeti Tours, 61 Clyde Street, Ohakune 4625

Phone: +64 6-385 8197

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 113 Visit our website for more info & video: www.yetitours.co.nz


bones and ten articulated moa skeletons has been brought out of storage to create what will be a landmark resource for the general public, researchers and scientists worldwide. Dr Mike Dickison the Museum’s Curator of Natural History and an expert on flightless birds says the collection had been largely unknown and inaccessible. “We want to make this the best experience for anyone who is keen on nature, and keen on birds. Whanganui will be the place people come to learn about extinct birds,” Dr Dickison says. Dr Dickison says the art community is very interested in the collection. The Museum is keen to work on collaborative projects with artists who want to use the collection as a springboard for inspiration - so watch that space. “Even a school could 3D print an entire moa skeleton if they were patient. I would love to get the kids to print out moa bones on different scales. I suspect people will invent uses for these moa bones that

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we can’t even imagine.” There are over 400 resident artists and the largest group of glass artists in New Zealand living and working in Whanganui; art in all its forms is easily found. Galleries and studios feature glass, paintings, sculpture, photography, ceramics, textiles and indigenous arts and crafts. Among them, Space Gallery on Taupo Quay showcases many of the artists who make Whanganui one of New Zealand’s creative hubs. “We exhibit a great range of exciting and innovative works,” says owner/ curator, Sarah Williams. “Since opening our doors in 2012 we have been heavily booked with shows, demonstrating the sheer strength of the arts community in Whanganui.” Artists also love sharing their skills and passion for the medium they specialise in. Art workshops are offered by locally based, nationally and internationally recognised artists. If you fancy a taster in kiln glass creations, David Traub takes one-


d– e realise tor w n a h t ill Eleva do H o e t i r e r u o e the D ch m e paddl een up s so mu h b i t , e d r e n i e a r h a y aim e e! T e cit visit her velled th ound th the PS W r o r a n h u s o r o t u e g n o w n t e Lovi tage o say we w ificate t d a heri ld and t r e r k o e l w c a w a e h t e in t we’v n go f only 2 ver. Eve i o 1 R i s i u h n e whic Whanga there ar e w h o t n p k u case id you steamer my suit orrow d n i m o m t s at o s useum have ro hot kiln coal! l m l e ’ d I h t n e a g p s n rki I ho lerie ganui? them wo e art gal n d h a e t h h t c a W t a k n we w a loo ere i autiful, Having sident h e e b r s o t s s i s t ’ 0 ar rt. It rk over 40 e glass a m o ushy Pa s B e o m t o g h n eadi to take y and h a lass. d G r e e t l s c e i you. Lake y Chron s greet irginia d r V i b d e n wn v u i Trail do s of nat walk aro d e t l e e c r i y d u C n q ra d re hu o Sea Went fo bert live ntains t row whe r u u o o A m e M o n e t ry o th uzan Sanctua other S we can d M o s e r n e o h in so lem w back aga t Jerusa i g s i n v i d m n o c oad a We’ll be River R i u n a g n the Wha ars ago. many ye n. you soo e e S ! o d Lots to

For more information: whanganuinz.com

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day workshops in which eight participants make a coloured glass tile, two slumped glass bowls and glass brooches. “I cut up glass components, melt them in a kiln, fuse them and make something from that fused piece of glass. It’s a process that, with a ceramic kiln and some other equipment you could do at home in a garage,” David says. At Chronicle Glass, you can get on the end of a glassblower during weekend workshops, customised corporate evenings and paperweight workshops or make flamboyant glass beads and jewellery in Donna Sole’s studio. Chronicle Glass has a little known secret; all the glass- ware for the Hobbit movie (from ink pots to drinking vessels) was made here and took two years to complete. If Lindsay Patterson is in the studio ask him about his involvement. For the mosaically minded Louise Herdmann runs popular workshops and Marty Vreede’s paper making courses bring a whole

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new dimension to corporate team building. Marty’s cottage industry sends paper made from harakeke (flax) all over the world. He says it is a contemporary and sustainable use of traditional materials. “People work with an indigenous material that’s part of what makes us New Zealanders and is part of Te Ao Maori (the Maori world). We use everything the weavers [of harakeke] don’t – the tip, the butt, the spine of the plant and all the dead, old or spotted leaves.” Along with paper making Vreede says they teach history, tikanga (customs) and how Maori and European perspectives fit into the modern world. Wanganui District Council’s Arts Facilitator, Deborah Kapohe, says a bonus in coming to Whanganui for a workshop is that it’s easy to get around and has a good climate. “Whanganui is compact and during breaks people can easily walk around a gallery or two or enjoy our wonderful museum

for example. Visitors can attend a number of events and great evening entertainment usually within walking distance from their accommodation and at an affordable price”. Don’t forget the outdoors! Stretch your limbs and challenge yourself whatever your abilities with cycling paths, the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail, mountain biking, scenic and tranquil walking paths and of course, all the Whanganui River attractions. Take a jetboat, journey with the traditional riverboats including NZ’s only coal-fired fired paddle steamer, the PS Waimarie. Book a canoe or kayak trip with Whanganui River Adventures, Yeti Tours, Whanganui Scenic Experience and more. There’s a certain bliss in Whanganui. On the river, in the galleries and amongst the people. Whanganui is big enough to entertain, yet small enough to keep it real. The manaakitanga (hospitality) is legendary, and the city waits to welcome you.


Located in the small rural village of Raurimu, five minutes north of National Park Village, Wades Landing Lodge is nestled neatly into the natural splendor of the Central Plateau region. With the World Heritage Tongariro National Park, Whanganui National Park, and the Mt Ruapehu ski lifts just a stone’s throw away, Wades Landing can offer connection to a plethora of activities in the area as well as a fun and comfortable place to stay. We offer Tongariro Crossing transport, canoe and kayak river journeys, and Lord of the Rings tours (the only operators in the Central Plateau!) So come stay and play with us!

Nature in all its splendour is on our doorstep.

Call us on (+64) 7 895 4854 www.wadeslanding.co.nz Cell Phone: 027 678 6461 Email: info@wadeslanding.co.nz Forest Lodge, 12 Omaki Road, Owhango Mention this ad to receive a 10% discount

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Taranaki

MORE THAN A MOUNTAIN

Taranaki

The first thing that comes to my mind when someone says Taranaki is usually a mountain, followed by the name New Plymouth. My recent trip west uncovered much more including that Taranaki the home of world-renowned artist Len Lye’s works, a bustling waterfront walkway and a surprisingly good selection of cafes.

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T

aranaki is only a 4.5 hour drive from Auckland, similar from Wellington, or a short, direct flight from Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch. I recommend taking the scenic route; it is well worth the journey. Along the intrepid road from Taumarunui to Stratford, I found an exceptionally beautiful scenic display of heartland New Zealand. It is a stretch of road so remote and away from it all that it was aptly named ‘The Forgotten World Highway’. Along the highway is Whangamomona, a historic town that is no longer a part of New Zealand, having declared itself a republic in 1989; complete with its own presidential election and passport. While the town’s population sits at around 30 people, the head count is starting to swell dramatically as the area’s charms reach an increasingly large visitor market. After a leisurely drive through the historical Forgotten World, it was time to put the wheels aside and stretch my legs - and Taranaki offers many opportunities to do exactly this. Continuing along with

my quintessential New Zealand ‘Naki times experience, I visited the East Taranaki Environment Trust in • 29-30 November 2014 – NZ Tattoo Purangi. The Trust has been and Art Festival growing the Western Brown • 14 December 2014 – 24 January Kiwi population in its predator2015 - TSB Bank Festival of Lights controlled reserve since 2005. • 24 January 2015 – Tenix Ro und the It offers a two and a half hour selfMountain Cycle Challenge guided or guided walk through • 24 January 2015 –Whan gamomona mature native forest and if you Republic Day are lucky like me, you may even • 31 January 2015 –Sting and Paul see a kiwi in its natural habitat. Simon, TSB Bowl of Brookl ands If the Kiwis are shy, nearby • 7 February 2015 – Wells Ne w Stoney Oaks is a unique wildlife Plymouth Half Iron Man park in Inglewood that brings • 14 February 2015 – Tro pFest – people and animals together in international short film festiva l an extraordinary way. Stoney Oaks is great for the kids visit.taranaki.info because it is very hands-on and teaches them to be comfortable coast, with animals of all shapes and farmland and reserves. Walks range forms. Kids can sit on a cow, tickle from gentle strolls to epic alpine a pig’s tummy, hand-feed possums, cuddle deer, calves, sheep and goats, adventures. A great place to start is the walk and hold rabbits and guinea pigs. up to Wilkies Pools from the Dawson I discovered that If you’re keen to Falls Visitor Centre, on Mt Taranaki’s stretch your legs even further, there southern slopes. Recently named are over 300km of walking tracks on Mount Taranaki alone and many more one of New Zealand’s top summer ‘Must Dos’ the walk takes about throughout the region, spanning the

Stoney Oaks Wildlife Park

For the Ultimate Animal Experience 356 Kaimata Road Inglewood, Taranaki

Open Sundays, School Holidays & advertised days 11am – 4pm, please call 06 756 7624 to avoid disappointment NO EFTPOS Accommodation available for family 2-6 people, bookings essential Help feed the animals, enjoy a bike ride to visit the Highland Cattle & Deer herds Take a fairy bush walk, row the boat, visit Stoney Oaks Cottage & see NZ’s largest Native Timber Collection We adopt the hands on approach Check us out on Facebook & Stoneyoaks.com Come & enjoy close encounters of the animal kind

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an hour and a half. It begins in the eerie ‘Goblin Forest’ of twisted kamahi trunks hanging with ferns and mosses, then on through sub-alpine scrub to the revered Wilkies Pools. The series of plunge pools were created by a lava flow and filled with fresh mountain water. You haven’t properly experienced Taranaki until you traverse New Plymouth’s Coastal Walkway. Whether you walk, roller blade, bike or hire a “Wind Wanderer” and quad-cycle the walkway in style, it’s impossible not to enjoy the Coastal Walkway. I hired a “Wind Wanderer” and spent a highly enjoyable couple of hours exploring its 11km of roaring waves, sculptured coastal gardens and visual highlights such as the Te Rewa Rewa Bridge and Len Lye’s iconic Wind Wand. The Coastal Walkway acts as a connecting ribbon to a wide variety of activities. As well as passing right by the centre of the city, I found out that it is dotted with pop-up shops selling coffee, gelato, delicious French baguettes and other summer treats along its length! To the south of the Wind Wand you’ll find Breakwater Te Rewa Rewa

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Legendary If it’s time your family rediscovered adventure then it’s time you rediscovered Taranaki.

visit.taranaki.info Photos: Rob Tucker www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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New Plymouth Bay. The Bay is the location of a group of restaurants and cafes perfectly positioned for a welldeserved break at the end of your Coastal Walkway journey. Nearby is Lee Breakwater, a popular spot for families to undertake a spot of fishing or watch the boats chugging out of the harbour. If you’re travelling with children, also accessible from the Walkway is the Todd Energy Aquatic Centre, where you can easily spend an afternoon enjoying the hydro slides and wave pools. With both outdoor and heated indoor pools, it’s a weather-proof activity and a whole lot of fun for everyone. If the tang of salt and pull of the tide is more to your liking, there are

South Taranaki

Spend the day in South Taranaki South Taranaki - a perfect place for a day’s road trip, or a weekend getaway for the whole family.

restaurants, award winning museums {Aotea Utanganui - Museum of South

CULTURE

HISTORY

RECREATION

LEISURE

Surf Highway 45, beaches, coastal walkways and much, much more.

Visit www.southtaranaki.com to www.gotravelnewzealand.com 122 all discover of the things to see and do, or like our facebook page.

a number of patrolled swimming beaches at either end of the Coastal Walkway. Ideal for families in the summer, each offers glassy waves and a warm black sand shore. Fitzroy and East End beaches are two of the more popular patrolled beaches in New Plymouth while Ngamotu beach past Breakwater Bay is a sheltered beach perfect for young children. I took the opportunity to have some time out and read a book over a picnic lunch at Breakwater Bay. For those of us who like to keep dry, Chaddy’s Charters at Breakwater Bay offers a fantastic tour of New Plymouth’s Sugar Loaf Island Marine Reserve on a restored English lifeboat. Run by charismatic


local, Happy Chaddy, I learnt about the dramatic history of the area and visited the fur seal colony that lives in the reserve’s protected waters. It was entertaining watching the antics of the seals in their natural habitat.

If you’re interested in visiting the wonderful region of Taranaki visit www.visit.taranaki.info. where you will find a wide variety of engaging activities to enjoy and places to explore.

Make a splash this summer

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Indoor slid Bubbl es

STRATFORD’S

Outdoo

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. 28 C year round

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Climbing w

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www.stratford.govt.nz


Rotorua

Rotorua: Paradise Found

Rotorua

Located in the heart of the North Island of New Zealand and known as the Lakes District, Rotorua is home to stunning lakes, crystal-clear streams, rivers, and natural hot springs ideal for bathing and relaxing in.

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W

ith picturesque backdrops of hills, native bush and forestry, the region’s lakes are popular for swimming, fishing and boating. Cruise Lake Rotorua on a traditional paddle steamer, explore Lake Rotoiti on a luxury catamaran or experience three or more of the lakes on board an authentic WWII amphibious craft. An assortment of water vehicles including classic cruising vessels, luxury launches, water taxis and jet boats are available, offering trips tailored to suit your needs. One of my favourite excursions was the scenic lake cruise where

we were served a fabulous meal; rainbow trout that we had caught ourselves and was then prepared for us on the spot. If you are not successful in catching one of the many rainbow and brown trout, you will still be served a delicious meal! After our meal, we enjoyed an invigorating swim in the fresh water followed by a soak in a natural lakeside hot pool. If you prefer something more exciting, you can get the adrenaline pumping with fast-paced activities such as jet skiing. Lake Rotorua, on the edge of the city, offers a wide range of water activities including parasailing and float plane rides. Pedal boats and

Twilight Spa

A unique New Zealand Geothermal Bathing Experience - under the stars

MUD BATHS & SULPHUR MINERAL POOLS Escape into nature, bathe in our geothermal mud pools and sulphur spas overlooking New Zealands’s spectacular geothermal scenery under the stars. A truly unique New Zealand experience only in Rotorua

$75 entry

OPEN 9am - 10pm PHONE 07 345 3151 for bookings

www.hellsgate.co.nz

State Highway 30, Tikitere, Rotorua www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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pontoons can also be hired at the lakefront; just two minutes walk from the central city. We chose to take the two minute stroll to the traditional Maori village of Ohinemutu where we paddled on the lake in a beautifully carved canoe. It was very relaxing and a great opportunity to take in the natural beauty of the area. Stunning Lake Rotoiti, just 25 minutes away features the world’s only flying hovercraft ride. Another

draw-card is the Manupiria Hot Springs; accessible only by boat. Swimming or fishing in the lakes are two of the best ways to see the beautiful wildlife, stunning scenery, and discover the region’s hidden treasures. Lake Tikitapu and Lake Okareka with adventure playgrounds, public barbeques and picnic tables are popular locations for family outings. Lake Tikitapu also features a waterslide and diving platform.

Stunning Lake Rotoiti, just 25 minutes away features the world’s only flying hovercraft ride. Another draw-card is the Manupiria Hot Springs; accessible only by boat. A memorable experience for me was Lake Rotoma, named for its exceptionally clear water, is was simply divine to dive into with its water clarity of around eleven metres. Four buoys near the centre of the lake mark a submerged Maori pa (village) site.

Clearwater Cruises Lake Tarawera Water Taxi Services Trout Fishing Specialists Self Drive Charters Luxury Charters Weddings Parties Confrences and Incentives Team Building

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www.clearwater.co.nz 0508 CLEARWATER cruise@clearwater.co.nz P. 07 345 6688


Rotorua is an angler’s heaven with 11 of the 18 lakes in the region being fishable. Lake Tarawera, with a volcanic mountain as its stunning backdrop, is one of the most popular due to its trophy-sized rainbow trout. Purchase a fishing licence from any local hunting and fishing store or book a guided trip (on offer for all of the plentiful streams and lake systems in the region). Lake Rotorua is open for fishing

12 months of the year, and the other lakes and most of the rivers close for spawning from July 1 and reopen on October 1. An absolute water paradise, Rotorua is the perfect place to refresh and rejuvenate, soak and unwind, or get active in new and interesting ways. With over 30 sparkling streams and rivers in the area, the ranges of water adventures to have are never ending.

Reconnect with nature on an educational Eco tour through breath-taking scenery, or float under the Milky Way in a natural hot river. Fly fish in tranquil surrounds, or water sledge over waterfalls. Rotorua features some of New Zealand’s finest white-water rapids and the world’s highest commercially rafted waterfall – the seven metre high Tutea Falls. Take the time to visit the outstandingly beautiful Hamurana

www.cruiseandfish.co.nz info@cruiseandfish.co.nz Tel: +64 21 951959

• • • •

Cruise or fish the pristine waters of Rotorua’s most scenic lake, Lake Tarawera Try jigging, trolling and fly fishing for a famous Tarawera Rainbow Trout Relax and enjoy a soak in the warm thermal waters of Te Rata Bay Fly fish the central North Island’s rivers & streams for Rainbow and wily Brown Trout

No matter what your experience level, Cruise and Fish Rotorua have the expertise to provide you with a personalised fishing adventure on the legendary rivers, stream and lakes in the Rotorua and Taupo regions.

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Stream; it has some of the purest water you’ll ever see flowing from a 15 metre deep spring. The Hamurana Spring produces an estimated four million litres of water per hour that runs directly into Lake Rotorua. Explore the rivers and lakes at length discovering glow worm caves and other hidden secrets via kayak or stand up paddleboard. Sitting within the Pacific Rim of Fire, Rotorua is a geothermal wonderland. Natural hot mineral and sulphur water is freely available for bathing in natural lakeside pools and streams running through native forests, or sourced for your pleasure at health spas throughout the city. Enjoy a simple soak at Hot Water Beach, Waitangi Soda Springs, Kerosene Creek, or indulge in a wellness getaway at a luxurious spa. The city features a range of worldclass spa facilities including a World Top-Ten spa, all with geothermally heated mineral pools and many also offer massage, beauty treatments, mud baths, and health therapies.

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A number of thermally heated swimming pools are also popular with families year round. I know I returned home from my holiday feeling invigorated, revitalised and refreshed, knowing I had given my body the ultimate restorative treatment nature has to offer. The Rotorua region is an area that completely showcases the natural beauty and magic of New Zealand. It’s the hub of Maori culture, a cycling and mountain biking mecca, an adventure playground with everything from luging to zip lining. At the same time, Rotorua is also well known for its quality food and range of unique and fun places to eat and drink. My dilemma was choosing what to do during my short stay. Visit www.RotoruaNZ.com for more information.


Photo by Cristiano De Araujo

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Taupo

SUMMER CENTRAL by Adele Thurlow

Taupo

I arrive in Taupo during summer and immediately am struck by the happy, energetic vibe. The Great Lake region is holiday headquarters for both locals and visitors, and the water is abuzz with swimmers, boats and even aircraft (of the floating variety).

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T

he sky hums with skydive planes and, on terra firma, shoppers, diners, sightseers and thrill-seekers soak up the region’s down-to-earth hospitality. One of the great appeals of this central plateau region is its ability to cater to everyone. It is bursting with outdoor adventures and highadrenalin activities, but with almost 200km of lakeshore, it’s just easy

to find a spot for uninterrupted relaxation. That’s the beauty of Great Lake Taupo. It is also has a rich history dating back to the arrival of Maori in New Zealand in the 14th Century. The Lake’s origins are volcanic dating back to a series of eruptions in 186AD. The Lake formed in a crater resulting from the eruptions. Lake Taupo remains volcanically

Did you know?

Lake Taupo is the largest fres hwater lake in the southern hemisp here. The lake is the crater of one of the largest volcanic eruptions of the last 5000 years.

How deep is Lake Taupo?

159 meters at the deepest

point.

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active to this day; apparent in the warm pockets of water you may encounter when swimming. Measuring 616 km2 the lake is about the size of Singapore, and at its deepest is a daunting 159 m. It’s no surprise that a region with a lake similar in size to a small country has more than your average

Ultimate Escape Trip Boat ride to westerbays, kayak to waterfall, plus more...

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number of water activities. The weather was fabulous, so I headed straight to the lake for a refreshing dip followed by a soothing soak in the thermally heated leisure pools at AC Baths. If you are feeling more energetic then Wet n Wild Slides at Riverside Park with its giant inflatable slides is ideal.


I fancied some serious speed, so I went for a blast along the river with Rapids Jet. This rocketing ride took us to the base of New Zealand’s biggest and longest rapids and through the Waikato River’s narrowest canyon. Tongariro River Rafting also features plenty of action on the water – from a family-

friendly float through untouched wilderness to a blood-pumping ride over dozens of roller coaster grade three rapids. Viewed from above, Great Lake Taupo is astoundingly impressive. The crystal clear water of the lake becomes a glossy jewel-like emerald green from the air. Check

The Central North Island's premier indoor climbing venue! Featuring a large range of climbs for all ages and abilities, from 5 meter top ropes to a 21 meter completion standard overhang. Plus Bouldering Cave with inflatable mat for free climbing. • Bike Hire available, including Tandem bikes, baby seats, tag along bikes, buggy plus bikes racks & folding bikes. • Onsite café & shop with wifi • Family accommodation via Extreme Backpackers

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it out while suspended beneath a parasail, or at high-speed head first with Taupo Bungy. For a view that stretches coast to coast, climb to 15,000 feet with Taupo Tandem Skydiving or Skydive Taupo, then leap into fresh air for the biggest adrenaline rush you’ll have with

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goggles on. This is the most popular tandem skydive drop zone on the planet so be sure to get photos, video and a t-shirt as proof of your jump. For a birds-eye-view without the requirement to plunge out of the plane door, I recommend a scenic


flight with Taupo Floatplane. We flew above the snow-capped volcanoes of Tongariro National Park, and it was spectacular - a perspective I have never had before of a volcano - benignly dormant or otherwise! Overall it was a unique experience capped off beautifully

It’s all on

Known as the ‘Event Capita l of New Zealand’, I discovered that there is certainly no shortag e of entertainment throughout Gre at Lake Taupo during the sum mer months. There’s something for everyone. • Taupo Rodeo - 29 Dec • Interislander Summer Fes tival 30 Dec • NYE celebration - 31 Dec • Taupo Summer Concert - 24 Jan • Wanderlust - 29 Jan-1 Feb • Tri Series Kinloch - 1 Feb • Thunder on the Great Lak e - 14 Feb • Great Lake Relay - 21 Feb • Across the Lake Swim 28 Feb • Ironkidz - 1 Mar • IRONMAN NZ - 7 Mar • Oxfam Trailwalker - 28-29 Mar www.greatlaketaupo.com/e

vents

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A bed for every budget, breathtaking views,! Spa, and Hot Pools

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by the novelty of landing on water as opposed to tarmac. Other flight options are over the Huka Falls or out to the hidden geothermal valley of Orakei Korako and its famous silica terraces. The lakefront is gorgeous, and I found myself drawn to it. The Lake

is the heart of Taupo, and there are myriad activities for young and old, thrill seekers and sightseers alike. I soon discovered Taupo’s Hole in One Challenge. Rated among the top ten things to do in New Zealand and offering prizes for holes in one, I was tempted to give


it a go. It was fun and challenging as I tried to smash my golf ball hard enough for it to hit the 8m by 12m floating pontoon target out in the lake. The Hole in One Challenge is open 364 days a year and operates into the night. Heaps of fun and a great photo opportunity with its

stunning backdrop of the three mountains: Ngaurahoe, Tongariro and Ruapehu. There’s no better time than a holiday to try something new. You may have been skiing before but have you ventured up Mt Ruapehu in the summer? The Stunning new Bar & Eatery with real food, great coffee and awesome company. “Discover us” in Mangakino, “heart of the dam country”, South Waikato. MUST try dishes; Seafood platter, the “hut” steak, and famous venison pies!

Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner 7 Days

P: 07 882 8866

Shop 1, 71 Rangatira Drive, Mangakino, South Waikato. 3421

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and one I recommend. For an even higher view, take a hike with qualified mountaineers and cultural guides to Ruapehu’s pristine crater lake. And you may have visited many cafes in your time, but can you say you’ve had lunch at New Zealand’s highest café at Knoll Ridge Chalet? I can! The region’s best-known track,

the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, is considered one of the best day walks in the world and is noted as ‘a life changing experience’ by Lonely Planet. With the right knowledge, equipment and perhaps a qualified guide, the Crossing can be completed by almost all ages with a reasonable level of fitness. Backyard Tours can transport you

Credit: Fly Fish Taupo

rugged volcanic terrain appears almost extraterrestrial. Riding the chairlifts above Mt Ruapehu’s striking volcanic terrain to 2020 metres above sea level was unforgettable, and the breathtaking views of Tongariro National Park and its three mountains made for a wonderful photo opportunity. A great activity for all the family

FLY FISHING AT ITS BEST WILDERNESS FISHING, BY HELI, RAFT OR 4X4 ACCESS OVERNIGHT CAMPING ADVENTURES FISHING CLINICS ALL LEVELS OF EXPERIENCE WELCOME EQUIPMENT & LICENCES PROVIDED

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to and from the Crossing while sharing local knowledge and an insight into Maori culture. While there may be very little snow or ice on the mountain during the summer, there’s plenty of ice at Taupo’s lakeside ice skating rink – quite possibly the most picturesque rink in the southern hemisphere. So, if you are in Taupo during the

winter, Don some skates and test your Torvill and Dean moves. On that note, if you encounter rainy weather during your stay there are many options to keep you entertained if you do not fancy braving the outdoors for some adventure. The Aquatic Centre Baths are great in any weather, but personally I find hot pools even

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more pleasant when it is raining or a little chilly. The contrast between the bone-warming water and the bracing cold is very stimulating. Alternatively, ask the locals about the natural hot pools located around the lake terrace. Looking for new tramping boots, original art or an awardwinning latte? Look no further

than Taupo’s town centre. The centre has free parking boutique shopping and enough great cafes to satisfy everyone. A fine wood gourmet cutting board from Ignis Terra in your kitchen would be a practical and elegant memento of your holiday while a manicure or massage would see you return home glam and supple.

If you feel like taking some time out from all the sights then pop into the Starlight Cinema. With five theatres, there should be something to suit all tastes. They are also equipped with a great bar so you can have a refreshing drink before watching your movie of choice. I took great delight in a leisurely wander around the bustling little

To The World Famous Maori Rock Carvings

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town centre. I enjoyed browsing the stunning artworks in the local gallery and all the local crafts in the boutique stores. Grabbing a coffee on the go was easy as I was spoilt for choice by award-winning cafes. After my pleasant wander around the town centre, I took a short drive out of town to the wonderful Huka Falls; only a few minutes from

the city and easily accessible. The Huka falls are a set of falls fed by the mighty Waikato river. Gushing 220,000 litres of water per second the Huka Falls are New Zealand’s most visited natural attraction, Standing on the footbridge the roar of the artic-blue water is phenomenal. Looking down at the end point of the falls, a turbulent

pool of water, I get an insight into the ability of water to generate power. At the top is a series of waterfalls dropping around eight metres, and the final stage of the falls is a six metre drop (raised to around 11 metres by the depth of the water). Huka is the Maori word for foam, and the turbulent waters do indeed foam and froth

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Looking for the Ultimate Driving Experience? Why not join Formula Challenge who are based at Taupo, plus we have specific days at Hampton Downs Motorsport Park - Take on the challenge of driving a Ford or Holden V8 or a Formula Challenge Single Seater Racecar.

Never been on track before - don’t worry, you just need to be able to drive a manual car and you’ll receive a detailed briefing on how to drive our racecars. Then you will be fitted out in a racesuit, helmet and boots ensuring that you are ready for a safe and exciting day at the racetrack. Check our website for available dates as pre booking is essential. So why not give us a call to feel the power and thrill of driving a pure racecar on track!!

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spectacularly. There are many activities based around the falls with walking and mountain bike tracks meandering alongside the river. If you want to get close enough to feel the water spray on your face try a thrilling trip with Huka Falls Jet or a more leisurely excursion on the Huka Falls Cruise. The nearby Huka Honey Hive boasts the country’s largest showcase of honey products and interactive displays including live beehives! The displays are very popular with children. Huka Honey Hive offer free tastings of their delicious honey and mead Their products are delightful and include a lovely skincare range (I recommend the Manuka Honey hand cream). Fly fishing was next on my list of must-dos. Over 100 years ago the first trout fry were released into

Lake Taupo, and now the brown and rainbow trout in the region are renowned for their size and condition. New to the sport I am still learning the technique and did not have much luck. I have since learned that an estimated 750,000 trout swim up the Tongariro river every winter to spawn - maybe I should fish the Tongariro next time! Honestly, even though I did not catch any trout, it was a whole lot of fun trying. Make sure you end your day in style with some lakefront accommodation at Millennium Hotel and Resort Manuels. I love the Hilton with its unobstructed lake and mountain views. The Lake is the site of the world-renowned Lake Taupo Cycling Challenge - New Zealand’s benchmark cycling event,


attended by thousands of people every year from twenty different countries. With various categories available including road cycling and mountain biking, there is a challenge to suit all levels of fitness. The profits of the race go to charity. The Taupo community gets behind the event, and the hospitality they extend is superb. The race is held in November when the weather is inviting, and

it would be tempting to compete and then stay on for a few days’ rest and exploration of the area, especially if you have brought your mountain bike with you! If you happen to visit Taupo when the event is being held, get involved as a spectator and take in the excitement of the racing, the spectacular scenic views and the wonderful hospitality of the community.

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Bay of Plenty

PLENTY FOR EVERYONE

Bay of Plenty

The coastal Bay of Plenty is located along the pristine Pacific Coast Highway, and takes in 125km’s of white sandy beaches. Stretching from Waihi Beach to New Zealand’s best kept secret, Ohope, the region offers a mix of outdoor activities, scenic attractions, culture and top dining experiences. 144

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M

y partner and I decided that this would be a gift to each other, a helicopter flight over to New Zealand’s most active marine volcano, White Island or Te Puia o Whakaari, as we now know it! Home to New Zealand’s fifth largest and fastest growing city, Tauranga, which oozes a laidback sophistication with boutique shopping, a thriving café culture and a wide selection of locally sourced and internationally themed eateries. A relaxing place to spend a few hours shopping and enjoying the local cafes. The region is naturally fertile and agriculturally rich with avocado, kiwifruit and honey products. Te Puke boasts the largest kiwifruit export industry in New Zealand, living up to its tag line ‘Goodness Grows Here’. Te Puke is the “home of kiwifruit” and has a purpose built Kiwi360 orchard and experience centre, the only one of its kind in New Zealand. The region also boasts Experience Comvita where I enjoyed marvelling at the role of the honey bee and shopping for Comvita skin care and wellness products. When Captain Cook first reached

the shores of the Bay of Plenty in 1769, he was so impressed by the regions plentifulness (the fertile sea, land and natural resources), he named it the ‘Bay of Plenty’. The plentifulness recognised by Cook continues today with an abundance of seafood, kiwifruit, avocado and Manuka honey. Bay of Plenty is rich in Maori culture and history with sacred spots such as Mauao, Papamoa Hills and Maketu, and many pa (fortified village) sites. Guided tours to many

of these historic sites highlight the area’s cultural history. White Island or Whaakari is another significant cultural icon – meaning “reflection or image of creation”. Mauao, the sacred mountain at Tauranga’s harbour entrance, translates as ‘caught in the light of the day’. According to Maori legend, the once nameless mountain was spurned in love by another mountain, the beautiful Puwhenua. One night Mauao begged the fairy-like creatures of the forest to drag him

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to the ocean and end his misery, but the creatures fled as the morning sun-rays struck leaving Mauao transfixed to his spot. In particular, I found Papamoa Hills Cultural Heritage Regional Park (Te Rae o Papamoa) to be a significant

site. The park has ten ancient village sites that are amongst New Zealand’s oldest. The walking track to the summit reveals magnificent views of Tauranga harbour and Mauao. I recommend a visit to the local

Major Events • • • • • • • •

al NZ Garden & Art Festiv Nov 17-23 gramme Tauranga City Events Pro 11 19 December – January n Ja 8 wn La On the SLAM Festival 8-9 Jan port – Port Mount Festival of Multis January of Tauranga Half 9-11 rints – ASB ENZED Stadium Jetsp January BAYPARK Cup 24 – 25 Life Saving Eastern Regional Surf Champs 24- 25 January al – Easter New Zealand Jazz Festiv Weekend www.bayofplentynz.com

A day trip full of discovery, taking in the geothermal wonders of Rotorua and the highlights of the magnificent Bay of Plenty.

Phone: 027 2435263 Email: peter@mounttours.co.nz Website: www.mounttours.co.nz 146

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Artisans at Waihi Beach, or a drive to the Katikati Cuisine Trail to meet with local producers who can take you from plant to plate with fresh seasonal delicacies. For the more adventurous, try a hand at Blokart’s located in Papamoa. These three

wheeled land based yachts are designed to provide a revolutionary new speed thrill. Or try Adrenaline Forest in Pyes Pa for some high rope forest adventure. The highlight of my stay in the Bay of Plenty was the guided tour around

the crater of an active volcano White Island (Whakaari). Next time I would like to fly with Frontier Helicopters; a renowned once in a lifetime experience flying over the steaming island for exceptional views. Another way to tour White

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Island is via high-speed Catamaran with White Island Tours. An excellent opportunity to spot one of the Bay of Plenty’s 10,000 dolphin pods. I finished the day with a relaxing soak at Mount Maunganui’s hot salt water pools, under the shadow of Mauao

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followed by a warm sunset walk around the iconic ‘Mount’. The Bay of Plenty is officially New Zealand’s sunniest destination, sporting short lived winters and drawn out summer days. Mount Maunganui, more locally

known as simply ‘The Mount’ has long been a favourite holiday destination for New Zealanders – and it’s catching on. Boasting internationally recognised surf breaks, warm ocean waters and white sand beaches the Bay of


Plenty attracts large numbers of visitors over the Christmas/New Year period. Events and festivals are in full swing, meaning you can do as little or as much as you please. (See major events below) Fishing, diving, and watching or swimming with dolphins are just a small selection of ways to get out in the sunshine. The Mount is the perfect place for a swim lesson, stand up paddle boarding, to hire a bike or just to picnic with friends and family. Others summer activity options include several championship golf courses, mountain biking, kayaking, attending one of the many summer events or just chilling in the sun and socialising in local bars, cafes and restaurants. Tauranga and Mount Maunganui have a vibrant night and music scene and are a popular choice for New Years’ Eve festivities.

The Bay of Plenty boasts 125 kilometres of sandy white beaches along the stunning Pacific Coast Highway. Mount Maunganui beach, was recently voted New Zealand’s best beach by Trip Advisor and the fourth best beach in the South Pacific. I can see why it is so popular having experienced its marine life while surfing, and diving. The port of Tauranga is New Zealand’s largest port by tonnage and also hosts approximately 80 international cruise liners per season. The Bay of Plenty is a popular cruise destination, with many local attractions and also easy day-trip proximity to Rotorua and The Lord of the Rings, Hobbiton movie location. I needed a few days to take in the sights and activities on offer in this Bay of Plenty and would like to return for an encore.

Relax & Rejuvenate

Fernland Spa Thermal Mineral Springs Be revitalised in the ambient main pool or one of 8 spacious private pools, all pools are constantly filled with fresh 100% pure non chlorinated mineral water. Pamper yourself with a massage, enjoy the picnic grounds, stay a while in your camper van. Located only 5 minutes from down town Tauranga, Fernland Spa is a truly special and unique experience.

OPEN 8:30 - 10pm DAILY PHONE 07 578 3081 fernlandspa@xtra.co.nz www.fernlandspa.co.nz

www.gotravelnewzealand.com 149 250 Cambridge Road, Tauranga


Eastland

Eastland: Wild and Wonderful

Eastland

I loved driving SH35 around the East Coast of the North Island. It is one of New Zealand’s most scenic drives, and there is something special about the isolation, the sometimes stark beauty and the interesting characters you meet along the way.

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O

potiki is the northern gateway to the East Cape; it’s a pretty little town, with a surprisingly good, if not great selection of second-hand shops. But the jewel in Opotiki’s crown is The Motu Trails, heaven for cycle enthusiasts. I rode down the Pakihi Track, a stunningly beautiful mountain bike trail, exciting and not for the faint hearted. The Dunes Trail starts at the centre of Opotiki and is a gentle ride along the coast- line, great fun with the kids. I was amazed at the contrast between each side of the coast. The drive up the north side from Opotiki to the East Cape hugs the coastline most of the way. The beaches and coves are starkly beautiful, mystical and spooky with their black, almost

volcanic looking rocky inlets and native bush growing with wild abandon. When you reach the most eastern point of New Zealand and start heading south towards Gisborne, the road takes you inland and the landscape transforms into lush rolling high country farms. There are so many photo opportunities; it felt like we were constantly pulling over to get the camera out. But my favourite has to be the little church at Raukokore, perched poignantly on the edge of the world, complete with wild horses grazing on the grass in front, it’s magical. We were up before dawn so we could head out to the East Cape Lighthouse to be the first people

A truly original New Zealand eco-experience! Come to Tatapouri Bay and meet the children of the Maori sea God Tangaroa. Explore the reef environment to interact other reef dwellers.

A memorable, safe family adventure. (Reef waders, snorkel gear supplied.)

SUPREME TOURISM AWARD WINNER Rere Rockslide. Credit: Bare Kiwi and Tourism Eastland

• REEF ECOLOGY TOUR, FEED STINGRAYS • SNORKEL & SWIM WITH STINGRAYS

FOR BOOKINGS: Dive Tatapouri 06 868 5153 Information Centre 06 868 61 39 Private and Group Tours available on request

SH 35 • TATAPOURI BEACH GISBORNE • NEW ZEALAND

Dive Tatapouri Reef Ecology Tour www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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in the world to see the sunrise. It tis about a 30 minute drive to the lighthouse, some of which is gravel, but that just added to the adventure for us. And once we were there, I for one was happy that there were only about 700 “easy” steps to the top. Perched above a sharp hairpin bend in Tiki Tiki, just north of Ruatoria, we very nearly missed the Tiki Tiki Church, but I am so glad that we doubled back to take a look. Built in 1924 as a tribute to those who fell in WWI, it is a stunning example of what happens when two cultures are married together in harmony. From the stained glass windows to the carved altar and pulpit, you will struggle to find a more beautiful and true work of art anywhere. Our next stop was at Tolaga Bay, a thriving little coastal town with a huge heart. Their pride and joy is the Tolaga Bay Wharf, which has been lovingly restored in an epic community project that saw this tiny township raise millions of dollars. At 660 metres long the concrete wharf is the longest of its kind in the southern hemisphere. It was built back in the heyday of coastal shipping for transporting the abundance of products from the surrounding hinterland to other markets. We strolled along the wharf and watched the locals fishing and “doing bombs” into the sea to cool off. Alas, I wasn’t brave enough to join them, but will definitely give it a go next time. The highlight of our journey around the coast was the Eco Marine Tour at Dive Tatapouri, where the stars of the show are the gentle and graceful stingrays, some of which are as big as a dining table! We wandered out

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on to the reef in fisherman’s waders and formed a line. Our guide Dean tapped on a plastic bucket and within a surprisingly short amount of time the sea was alive as reef dwellers gathered around us for the feed. Dive Tatapouri is one of only a few places in the world (and the only place in New Zealand) that you can feed stingrays in the wild. You do have to be careful though that the giant kingfish don’t get your offerings first. We were very comfortable touching and feeding the stingrays; you can even snorkel with them if you wish. As you travel south from Tatapouri the road once again hugs the coastline and as you get closer to Gisborne it seems that every bend in the road treats you to yet another stunning beach. Gisborne is renowned for surfing and I learnt that out of the 18 protected surf breaks in New Zealand, six of them are in Gisborne. This fact is well known within the surfing fraternity and surfers from across the world visit Gisborne to make the most of the legendary waves. If you’re a newcomer you can do a surf lesson as we did; we felt very proud that we managed to stand up in our first lesson, what a great brag story to take home. We stopped at Wainui Beach for a walk at low tide and were amazed that we were the only people on this world-class surf beach. Gisborne is a quietly sophisticated coastal town, with a laid-back atmosphere, enhanced by its reputation as a producer of fine wines. We started our journey of wine discovery at the Gisborne Wine Centre, located in the Inner Harbour precinct amongst other waterfront bars and eateries. It is collectively

owned by the local winemakers and grape growers and acts as the Regional Cellar Door for one of New Zealand’s oldest wine growing regions. The knowledgeable staff were a great source for information and assistance when planning our self-guided tour of the local wineries. After enjoying the beaches and wineries of Gisborne, we headed inland for a visit to the Rere Waterfall and Rockslide. Rere Rockslide is sixty metres of sheer exhilaration where the waters of the Wharekopae River flow down over a fifty metre slab of moss-covered sandstone into the naturally formed freshwater pool below. Standing at the top of the rockslide I almost got cold feet. I was encouraged by some of the locals and after my first spine-tingling ride I was hooked and straight back up to the top to do it again. I can see why it is regularly voted in the top 101 things to do in New Zealand. When we had finally tired ourselves of rocksliding, we relaxed by the Rere Waterfall for a picnic lunch before heading back to Gisborne for yet another stroll on the beach and a relaxed dinner waterside in the Inner Harbour. All too soon it was time to head back home. I won’t forget my wonderful East Coast experience and will enjoy returning with friends and family in the near future.

East life • Gisborne Inte rnational Music Competition - 1s t to 6th December • Rhythm and Vi nes Festival 29th December 1st January • BW Summer Festival - 27th December to 1st January • Fire in the Sky - 1st January • Kaiaua Beach Horse Races 4th January • East Coast Vi bes - 24th Januar y • Sunsplash Su mmer Festival 21st to 26th Janu ary www.gisbornenz.c om/events/


“Heading home” by Teneya Te Whata

GISBORNENZ.COM www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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Hawkes Bay

DISCOVERING HIDDEN GEMS Hawkes Bay

When traveling through the North Island of New Zealand keep an eye out for the hidden gems of Hawke’s Bay where a great diversity of activities and adventures await travellers. Some gems are off the beaten track and as such are harder to find, but they are well worth the effort.

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he diversity of experiences available means there is something to suit everyone; from wonderfully relaxed wining and dining to surfing and swimming at local beaches. There are numerous walks through unspoilt native bush accommodating all levels of ability - from a short stroll to more demanding single and multi-day tramps. I soon realised that Hawke’s Bay needs several days’ stay for all the activities and experiences to be taken in; from the beaches and walks to guided visits to the Gannet Colony and adrenaline-filled rafting trips down the Mohaka River. Driving along the Hawke’s Bay Coastline, I discovered that there are many great swimming beaches from Waipatiki in the North to Westshore in Napier and Waimarama further South. Located 20 minutes from Havelock North, Waimarama is a golden sand beach popular for anglers, swimmers and surfers alike. Crayfish and paua are frequent catches at Waimarama. There is a General Store for travellers’ convenience and a variety of beach accommodation for those who want to stay. Waimarama is home to Hakikino, which was once a fortress

constructed to protect the settlement of several thousand people. Book a two-hour tour with Waimarama Maori Tours; I thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It was a chance to learn about Hakikino and the ancient history and traditions of Maori and gain insight and understanding I did not have before. I drove further north past Waipatiki and on to Boundary Stream. Check with the Department of Conservation

in Napier and find out when they feed the Kaka (NZ parrot). They are friendly and cheeky birds that put on a great display. There are several short walks through unspoilt native bush; however I opted to walk up to Bell Rock where I was rewarded by a breathtaking view of the Mohaka Valley. Longer walks are an option and the Department of Conservation in Napier has all the information and

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brochures about the day and multiday walks in the Kaweka Forest Park. These are great walks that are open to the public! A great starting point is Mangatutu Hot Springs; a popular fishing and hunting spot with camping facilities. In Kaweka Forest Park, there are a variety of accommodation options from lodges to bivouacs for hardier souls. For those wanting some great fun or an adrenaline-filled activity visit Mohaka Rafting and choose a

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raft trip that suits you. Try a threeday expedition, float the young family down a grade 2 section and experience gentle whitewater and beautiful scenery, or have fun on a more challenging grade 3. Try a “fun run� incorporating cliff jumping, swimming the rapids and a walk into a gold mine! For those wanting serious rafting, there is the worldclass grade 5; experience technical rapids in deep canyons. The grade 2 was my choice as I

was in for a relaxing time as opposed to a challenging time! The water was gentle, and I felt completely at ease gazing around at the wonderful scenery. Ideal for family groups is a trip with Gannet Beach Adventures to visit the gannet colony at Cape Kidnappers. Again I was able to relax and take in the beauty of the vast cliffs as I travelled along the beach in a trailer pulled by a vintage tractor - a unique experience! It was amazing being


able to get close to these wonderful seabirds and view their natural behaviours in their wild and unspoilt habitat. Any traveller to this region will want to spend time taking in the wonderful aesthetic that is Napier; the Art Deco city. Napier has an unusual concentration of 1930’s Art Deco architecture after much of the city was rebuilt following an earthquake in 1931. It was fun and relaxing to tour the city and view the architecture in a vintage car hired from “Hooters”. Take in the atmosphere of Marine Parade with its ocean backdrop. Don’t forget to take your photo with the statue of Pania of the Reef - one of the most photographed statues in New Zealand! Take a leisurely walk in the Public Gardens before taking in the sights at the National Aquarium. I was spoilt for choice when it came to wining and dining in Hawke’s Bay with around 80 wineries (many with restaurants and open cellars) dotted throughout the region. I was able to sample some of the many superb local wines. Hawke’s Bay is New Zealand’s leading producer of full-bodied red wines. I would recommend incorporating the local vineyards into a tour of the region. So, for once the saying; ”something for everyone” is true! I discovered that Hawke’s Bay is packed full of gems of experience that are just waiting to be found, whether seeking relaxation, an adrenaline charge or the perfect blend of both. Above all; go and enjoy!

Mohaka Rafting offers an unparalleled North Island rafting experience. The stunning Mohaka River gorge has everything from scenic half-day grade 2 raft and duckie (inflatable kayak) trips, to the best grade 4/5 rafting New Zealand has to offer.

More info & booking, visit:

www.mohakarafting.co.nz Tel: 06 839 1808 3408 State Highwaywww.gotravelnewzealand.com 5, Napier 4182

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Waikato

MAJESTIC, UNTOUCHED NEW ZEALAND by Glenn MacPherson

Waikato

Part One Recently my father and two brothers organised a hunt with Rob from Surf & Turf Hunting and Fishing Adventures (Waikato’s best kept secret!).

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e arrived late on Friday afternoon, and were met and greeted by Rob and his family. After packing our gear onto the 4WD and quad bike we started to make our way to the hut that we were going to call home for the next couple of days. On the drive in we could not get over the luscious green pastures and the fresh farm air. As we crossed over the stream my brother noticed three 18 point trophy racks that were leaning on the fence: we all got very excited. Just before we entered the bush, we glassed the hills and spotted a mob of seven Fellow Deer, two Arapawa Rams and one big Red Stag. On arrival at the hut we got settled in, cranked up the BBQ and started forming a plan for the next morning. We were really impressed with the quality of the hut and all the equipment that was supplied. Rob made us feel welcome and gave us a heads up on the safest way to hunt the block. We woke

The Waikato's Best Kept Secret! Come and enjoy the famous Kiwi outdoors, beautiful West Coast beaches, sensational panoramic views and the luxurious green pastures of New Zealand. Try Kontiki fishing for snapper, gurnard, kahawai, and occasional small grey sharks. Enjoy our great New Zealand bush in the safe hands of Rob, an experienced bushman and local search and rescue volunteer, while hunting New Zealand’s splendid red and fallow deer. We can cater for all, no experience necessary! All equipment provided. Pick ups and drop offs from Waitomo Caves, Te Awamutu or Otorohanga

www.surfandturf.co.nz Rob and Jacqui FitzGerald Email: robjac@xtra.co.nz Phone: (07) 871 1717 Mobile: (027) 278 7219 www.gotravelnewzealand.com Location: Between Te Awamutu and Otorohanga

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5

SPECTACULAR CAVING ADVENTURES IN ONE

w w w. f a c e b o o k . c o m . k i w i c a v e r a f t i n g n z

KIWI CAVE RAFTING

Kiwi Cave Rafting 95 Waitomo Caves Road, Waitomo New Zealand www.caveraft.com

NZ Freephone 0800 228 372 160

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up early the next morning after a solid night’s sleep and quickly got into it. We hunted in two groups on opposite sides of the block. There was a variety of options available from good open clearings to tight bush hunting. You could make it as hard or as easy as you pleased. As we headed off towards the top

of the property we spooked a Red Spika and it took off into the bush never to be seen again (we didn’t told Rob about that one). Within an hour we had spotted twofat Fellow hinds as they grazed. We quietly stalked in on them and let off two Tikka .270 rounds. Both animals dropped on the spot. We were


stoked - meat for the freezer! After that, we spent the rest of the day getting as close as possible to nine other deer. We managed to take some outstanding photos. Late in the afternoon we heard what we thought was a shot from the far side of the block, so we decided to head back to the hut. Sure enough, Dad

and my brother had been put onto a good sized Red Spika. Three deer for the freezer, brilliant! We had a quiet beer at the hut and then Rob dropped us down to the stream we had crossed on the way in. By the time we got down there, my brother already had a nice rainbow trout on the bank.

We caught five trout that afternoon. Could a day’s hunting and fishing get any better? The hunts on offer are perfect both for someone just starting out who wants to learn a bit more and get that first animal under their belt, and for a seasoned

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hunter wanting a change of scenery or different style of hunting. I will definitely be taking my son up there when he is old enough to hold a rifle. Rob is an experienced bushman that we would describe as ‘a real good bugger.’ It was a safe, fun, relaxing weekend and the prices are extremely reasonable. This leads me to the Scenes at Hobbiton

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second part of this adventure.

Part Two

While talking to Rob on our hunting weekend he mentioned a “secret” fishing spot where he took guided Kontiki trips. After a brief discussion with my wife, we decided this would be a great family day out. We met Rob at 9.00 a.m. and loaded up for the drive out to the beach. On the

way we were treated to some of the most beautiful New Zealand scenery that you will ever see; an amazing waterfall and spectacular natural bridge. After a few winds and bends we arrived at the beach. The kids were exicited in anticipation of what they might catch. The 4WD drive ride in through the river was an added bonus.


Once the Kontiki was set, out came the whitebait net and we were into it. By the time we were ready to bring the Kontiki in we had enough whitebait to turn into fritters to put on the BBQ for lunch. As the Kontiki slowly wound in the kids became more and more excited at the sight of each big snapper making its way onto the

beach. There were seven in total in the first set and three of them were 15 pound plus! We re-baited the hooks and put it out to try our luck again, giving us a chance to sit down on the beach, enjoy the breathtaking panoramic views and get stuck into venison steaks and whitebait fritters. We cannot recommend Rob and

Surf & Turf Adventures enough. He runs a professional business and has access to some of the most remarkable hunting and fishing spots New Zealand has to offer. If you want a genuine free range, down-to-earth hunting and fishing weekend then get in touch. I guarantee you will enjoy the experience. Check out their web site at www.surf&turf.co.nz.

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Coromandel

Centuries of Adventure in the Coromandel

Photo credit: The Coromandel, NZ

Coromandel

These days, New Zealand is synonymous with outdoor adventure activities. Whether skydiving, fishing, diving or bungee jumping, it’s an excellent opportunity to get out into gorgeous scenery. What better place than the Coromandel to experience the stunning beauty of New Zealand?

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et out on one of the many fishing charters available and discover for yourself that some of the best snapper fishing is in the translucent waters of the Coromandel. If fresh water fishing is more your thing then, you are in luck as the unspoilt rivers of the Coromandel Ranges boast plentiful brown and rainbow trout. I started my Coromandel experience by spending a day learning to fly fish on the Ohinemuri river. Although I had a distinct lack of skill, it was a relaxing and enjoyable day. Surrounded by lush

Photo credits: The Coromandel, NZ

rainforest and treated to native birdsong it was a great start to my introduction to the region. Next on my list was an incredible adventure; abseiling down towering waterfalls in the Sleeping God Canyon; a new level of awesome and an absolute must-do for adventure-seekers “down under”. As we climbed through native forest along a path to the top of the canyon, I realised we were following a trail forged over a century ago by the extreme adventurers of another era. Our guides from CanyoNZ shared stories about the canyon’s history

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and its significance to the Maori people who lived in this area long before European pioneers arrived. The Coromandel’s history and land were shaped by those pioneers on a quest for adventure and treasure. Prospectors and miners flooded

the area in search of gold, which they found in abundance along with silver. I tried to imagine what it must have been like to walk through these woods when they were full of kauri; when the rail tracks next to

us pulled carts and the small camps we passed were full of people taking a brief rest. Pausing to climb into our wetsuits we then continued walking until we suddenly faced a drop-off, the waterfall sparkling and crashing

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Pictured: The Pinnacles Walk

There is so much to discover in The Coromandel... If you are the traveller who is prepared to seek it. Fish, dive and surf with locals in the Pacific Ocean. Head into the sub tropical forest to the heights of the Pinnacles where the uncharted Sleeping God Canyon will be revealed. Trek by foot or bike, stopping to savour homegrown goodness along the Hauraki Rail Trail. Start planning your trip, pack your kit and GoPro to The Coromandel. WaTCh The full SerieS aT

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below. The term “jaw-dropping” is thrown around a lot in adventure sport advertisements but at that moment, my jaw did involuntarily drop a little bit. Thankfully, the guides took us through a professional and practical abseilsafety lesson.

Scenic Cruises

Then our adventure began in earnest. It was a challenging, exhilarating and ridiculously fun day. We descended 300 meters through spectacular waterfalls in a combination of abseiling, zip-lining, barreling down rock waterslides and jumping from ledges into deep pools.

When the adventure was over, I felt not only exhilarated but also serene and somehow connected to this hidden canyon. Exhausted from the day’s adventure and full from the tasty dinner our guides sizzled on the grill, I slept soundly in my cozy room at the Grahamstown Bar & Diner, a

Visit Cathedral Cove Explore sea caves & islands

Snorkel the Marine Reserve

See the fish on our underwater camera

Email info@cathedralcovecruises.co.nz

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historic hotel and pub in Thames. The next morning, we dug into a hearty breakfast in the restaurant downstairs and couldn’t resist wandering along Pollen Street to check out the kauri buildings still standing strong from the boomtown days more than a century ago. I’d love to spend a day or

two exploring the museums and treasures tucked away in this quirky heritage town. Today, Pollen Street is rich with options for coffee. We picked up a cup to go from Brew, a cafe on the first floor of the historic Brian Boru Hotel, then set out for adventure in Waihi at the brand-new Gold

Discovery Centre. With a bold façade facing the striking Cornish Pumphouse, the Gold Discovery Centre welcomed us with a powerful impression: it looked exciting, and didn’t disappoint. Within minutes, I found myself leaning on a lever to trigger a

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simulated dynamite explosion in a replica gold mine, then throwing all my weight against a drill that rattled my teeth when it shook against the replica stone walls. And don’t ask about my foray into gambling with the virtual-reality card dealer from

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the old days – that was almost a little too real. My absolute favorite part of the Discovery Centre, though, was a theatre experience unlike anything I’d ever seen, brought to life by 3-D hologram actors and inspired


by real local stories. I was on the edge of my seat following a love story with enough humour, drama and social strife to make me feel I actually knew these characters. The Discovery Centre is packed with information about gold across

the world and across the centuries. There are some fascinating interactive exhibits about its role in today’s world, but for me, the local stories were the most powerful. I loved hearing about the pioneers who risked so much here, both in the

Photo credit: The Coromandel, NZ www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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mines and in the society they built. I left feeling that I’d actually walked a mile or two in the shoes of an adventurer from another era. From the Gold Discovery Centre, we made our way to the historic Goldfields Railway and caught a vintage train to Waikino Station, Archery

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where we got a tasty lunch at the café and hired bicycles to take on the Hauraki Rail Trail. This section of the rail trail is a treasure for history fans and adrenaline-seekers alike: it winds past mining relics, through a kilometre-long tunnel blasted into a


mountainside and across the bridge over the Karangahake Gorge. We stopped to explore the old Victoria Battery and parked our bikes at the gorge for a detour to the fascinating Windows Walk, an old mining tunnel with windows cut into the rock wall affording views of the gorge below.

By the time we returned our bikes and caught the heritage train back to Waihi, I was happy to pull up a chair and order a pint at the Sterling, a historic pub across from the gold mine. Cheers to a weekend of adventure in the Coromandel, heritage-style.

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Auckland

Sailing Away in the City of Sails

Auckland

Back home, I have previously only sailed on fresh water lakes, so I am determined, as part of my New Zealand adventure to sail on Auckland Harbour.

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I

am visiting Auckland, with my family, and we’ve arrived at Auckland’s waterfront to meet Suzanne Bourke, a qualified Royal Yachting Association (RYA) instructor and director of Sailing Away School of Sailing. On any day, a steady stream of yachts can be seen on the harbour. It is easy to see why Auckland is known as “The City of Sails” and is rumoured to have the highest number of boats per capita in the world. Sailing Away School of Sailing offers sailing lessons covering four levels of ability from beginners to advanced sailors. Courses include all aspects of helmsmanship, seamanship, personal safety and navigation. You can gain international RYA qualifications, learn the basics of sailing or extend your individual skills. As well as sailing lessons Suzanne offers full and half day charters, on her modern 32 foot Beneteau yacht – “French Connection”. The family and I are booked for a full day, exclusive, skippered charter. This is an excellent option for us, with less time, but still wanting to

Sail a 32ft Beneteau on Auckland Harbour. Gain Royal Yachting Association Qualifications RYA Start Yachting Beginner Course 2 sessions of 5 hours duration RYA Day Skipper Course The qualification required by International charter companies - 5 days, 4 nights (includes a 4 hour night sail) Held over consecutive days or 2 weekends Expert Tuition, Small Classes

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experience a truly Auckland sailing experience. Charter guests are encouraged to take an active part in handling the yacht throughout the day. “This is a very easy yacht to handle,” explains Suzanne. “All the ropes feed back into the cockpit and with modern winches there is no great need for strength.”

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With the wind behind us, we sail down Auckland Harbour and immediately the horizon is studded with lush, green islands, as far as the eye can see. The harbour, together with the Hauraki Gulf and its myriad of islands, is Auckland’s big blue backyard and the most idyllic place to learn to sail. The family settles into the routine


of each one taking turns on the helm and manning the ropes. Before we know it, we are dropping the sails and lowering the anchor into the crystal clear blue water in a beautiful bay on Motuihe Island. While the family enjoys a refreshing swim, with a warm

Who can do this? All ages can learn to sail, with just a basic level of fitness. What do you need? Non-s lip shoes, sunscreen, a cap. Biggest thrill: Achieving sail ing skills you never knew you had. Best places to sail: Waitem ata Harbour and the secluded islands of the Hauraki Gulf. Cost: Full day exclusive cha rter is $895.00. Half day exclusive charter is $595.00 The RYA Start Yachting beg inner’s course, 10 hours over 2 day s, is $695.00 per person. Getting serious: do a 5 day , 4 night RYA Competent Crew or Day Ski pper course, so you can sail with confide nce. The cost is $1,995.00 per person and includes all meals. Information & lessons: Visit www.sailingaway.co.nz Email suzanne@sailingaway.c o.nz or Phone +64 (0)21 724 532

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shower to follow, Suzanne fires up the barbeque and produces an authentic New Zealand meal of tender, juicy steak and fresh, crisp salad, followed by a delightful fruit platter, of local summer fruits. Our rest and recreation are over and with the afternoon sea breeze building to a comfortable 15 knots; we weigh anchor and sail back up the harbour. Tacking into the south westerly breeze takes time, but no-one is complaining. The family is kept busy with

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releasing the jib sheet and winching in as we make each tack. We sail under the Auckland Harbour Bridge and head back into the marina. With Suzanne’s patience and skill we have enjoyed a fabulous day out on the water and the family have discovered a sailing aptitude they never knew they had. We are planning

to come back through Auckland and do a five day, four night RYA course with Suzanne before we fly home. RYA courses are highly regarded worldwide and are all totally hands-on and practical aboard the yacht. The beginner’s course called Start Yachting, is a

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comprehensive 10 hour introduction to sailing; Suzanne demonstrates and each client practices. Suzanne covers everything from manoeuvring the yacht in the marina, on the engine, to confidently helming the yacht under sail, safe anchoring and a useful man overboard technique.

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Class sizes are small (maximum of four) to provide an intensive learning experience. I am planning to do the intermediate skipper’s certification, called RYA Day Skipper Practical, which is a five day, four night trip away. This is the qualification needed


to independently charter a yacht, particularly in the Mediterranean. Over the course of the five days, the Hauraki Gulf is circumnavigated. It is so special to be able to choose a lunch stop or a night anchorage from any of the dozens of beautiful

sheltered bays. In many overseas destinations, it is usual to have to tie up to the seawall. The trip becomes a sailing holiday, with tuition. Visiting Auckland and getting out on the water with Sailing Away School of Sailing has been a life-

changing experience and the highlight of our trip to New Zealand. If you didn’t have the opportunity to learn to sail as a child, it is never too late to start now. Sailing is a sport that can be enjoyed for a lifetime.

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WILD ON WAIHEKE by Scott Homer

Auckland

When the boss announced the next team building weekend would be taking place on Waiheke Island, I had absolutely no idea what to expect. I knew Waiheke was a popular destination for visitors to the area, and I was looking forward to being a tourist for the day. I have lived and worked in Auckland for the past few years so, visiting New Zealand’s famous ‘island of wine’ was certainly on my things-to-do list. I had a feeling though that my first visit being a work trip meant I probably wouldn’t be sampling much of the wine on offer. 184

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Photo credit: Helitranz & Man O’ War Vineyards

Waiheke Island


A

s the work trip approached, naturally rumours were flying around the office as to what lay in store for us on the island. Dave, our IT wizard, had set his hopes on seeing the beautiful Waiheke Island from the air by helicopter tour. As much as I admired his optimism, I quickly reminded him that we didn’t work for Apple and would most likely be seeing the island on bicycles. The weekend arrived in no time, and we were soon climbing aboard the ferry and setting sail for Waiheke Island. As we got closer, I was surprised at how large the island actually was, and to learn that over 8500 people lived there, (even though this number swelled considerably during Christmas and Easter holidays). As it was the weekend, the ferry was packed with excited visitors. Enthusiastic kids were scrambling over each other to get the best photos as there was always the chance of spotting dolphins and even orca whales as we ferried across the sparkling waters of the Hauraki Gulf. After just 40 minutes, we had reached the island. It was a glorious day and straight away I felt there was something special about Waiheke. It felt like we were a world away from the hustle and bustle of downtown Auckland; it was obvious this was a haven of peace-and-quiet for tourists and us city folk. Every corner of the island has beautiful

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bays and beaches, each home to its own diverse and extraordinary sea life. I was quickly discovering why Waiheke was so popular with tourists and locals alike. A bus was waiting to take us to our accommodation for the weekend. The twenty of us were stay-ing at a nice little lodge overlooking the picturesque Oneroa Bay where dozens of yachts are an-chored. Before we could check-in the boss announced we had an hour before we were to be back on the bus to head to our first destination. This first item on the agenda had been described as ‘Time to get Wild on Waiheke’ so everyone was excited to see what getting wild was all about. Wild on Waiheke was, in fact, the literal name of where we would be spending the day, and we knew straight away the boss had made an excellent choice. A unique boutique multi-activity venue, Wild on Waiheke specialises in providing a diverse and ever-changing range of fun and challeng-ing activities, and the best part is they have their own

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brewery and vineyard! Yes! Looks like we would be sampling some of that famous wine after all. The boss handed out the day’s itinerary and in perfect unison we all quickly scanned down the page looking for any mention of wine or beer. There were approving nods all-round when we spotted the Brewery Tour and Wine Tasting as the final activities of the day, we were suddenly all very motivated. We were split into four teams, and the day got underway with a round of archery, I could see why it was a good idea to put Wine Tasting at the end of the day. It was an actionpacked day of activities packed full of laughs. We couldn’t move onto the next activity until we had achieved enough points, so the team rivalry was great. By midday Dave, our IT wizard, had wrapped a makeshift bandana around his head and had taken on a Rambo-style leadership role. When we got to Laser Clay Bird Shooting, the competition was fierce with plenty of good-natured banter being thrown around. After

lunch, the scoreboard was pretty even, so success in the Team Tactic Activities was critical. Even-tually, it all came down to Wine Barrel Golf and somehow my team walked away the overall victors, and everyone was particularly delighted that the boss’ team came in last place, again. It was fair to say we were all exhausted, and the Brewery Tour and Wine Tasting rounded up a perfect day. The micro-brewery was fantastic, and the range of craft beers and ciders were won-derful. First place for us meant a bottle of Topknot Hill Pinot Gris, which accompanied watching the sunset back at the lodge perfectly. The staff at Wild on Waiheke were absolutely brilliant! They made the day so much fun, and everywhere you looked people were enjoying themselves. The venue had something for everyone, and there were plenty of visitors who had just turned up on-the-day to enjoy the activities. The kids seemed to love the playground and trampoline. It was clearly a must-do experience for


WAIHEKE isl and all visitors to the island. We headed back to the lodge in great spirits. The following day we were excited to learn that we had another treat lined-up. EcoZip Adventures set amongst the beautiful native forests of Waiheke consists of three unique flying fox ziplines, each of them 200 metres long! Our friendly driver dropped us off at ZipHQ, which was perched high on a hillside. From up there we got another spectacular view of the island’s myriad of coves, beautiful bays and vineyards. I had experienced several similar adventures in the past, but this one had the unique benefit of having dual ziplines that meant Dave, and I could soar through the forest canopies together. As we raced down the final zipline, I shouted across to Dave ‘Well at least you’re getting to see some of Waiheke from the air’, and he laughed back. The adventure ended with a magical 1.4km guided nature walk through a lush tract of centuries-old native New Zealand forest. Afterwards, we headed back to ZipHQ to pick up our fantastic

souvenir GoPro videos that the staff had put together for us. The weekend had flown by, and we were soon boarding the ferry back to Auckland. I had only experienced two of Waiheke’s many activities on offer, but I knew I was in love with this island. The fact such a tranquil and beautiful place was just a 40 minute ferry ride from such a bustling city was very surreal. I couldn’t wait to bring my friends over and experience everything the island has to offer, especially the various vineyards and gardens. I’ve been told the best way to see the island is hiring a bicycle to explore the many natural splendours whilst being able to stop easily at all the vineyards along the way. Both the Rangihoua Estate and Mudbrick Vineyard were a must-visit for my next trip. The view of the ‘City Of Sails’ approaching was spectacular, but I was more interested in what was behind me. I couldn’t help looking back at the picturesque green island of Waiheke - the tourism gem of Auckland.

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Northland

LEARNING TO FLY Northland

As the van pulled up outside my hostel emblazoned with the words ‘Skydive Bay of Islands’ and a life-size picture of a couple skydiving, my heart started to beat a little faster. This was actually happening; I was about to jump out of a working aeroplane over 3 miles above the Bay of Islands!

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I

’d wanted to skydive for years. As a child I used to pretend I could fly, jumping off bunk beds, climbing trees, anything to get myself airborne. Now, as an adult, I had finally found the closest thing to flying, and I was ridiculously excited. There were nerves too, but I had done my research and Skydive Bay of Islands had everything I wanted in a jump location; beautiful scenery, a great reputation and the highest safety certification you can get. We were picked up in a white stretch limousine (quite the perk for this lowly backpacker on a budget) and driven 20 minutes out towards the drop zone. The driver kept the tunes pumping, making the atmosphere between me and the five others nice and chilled as we

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made our way to our destination. On arrival, we were asked to sign in and choose our jump packages. The staff were great, especially as my jumping companion was a little nervous; they showed her all the different options, explaining the whole process from start to finish. I knew I was going to do the highest (16000 foot jump) before I even arrived, and after some convincing,

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my companion decided to go for the highest too! After choosing our camera options (The Gold Package, pictures and video for me), and putting all of our belongings into the lockers provided, we were directed through to the hangar to begin our safety briefing. After watching a short video on how to skydive, we met our tandem instructors, who made sure we had


had a penchant for jokes that had me laughing before he even put my harness on. Each instructor there was very professional, and one told us that he had completed over ten

thousand jumps; very impressive! My companion asked about safety, and the instructors pointed out their vested interest in getting us back down to the ground safely - after all,

Photo credit: Yukon Dive

understood the video. I was with Andy, a tall, funny guy from England with an easy-going nature that would put even the most nervous jumper at ease. He

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they would be strapped to us for the whole experience! In over twenty years of being in operation, their company had never had a tandem skydiving accident. Finally, we were geared up and ready to go. I had my harness on and my oxygen mask ready, so with a smile and a wave for the camera, I was led to the plane by Andy, who insisted we skip the final few metres. He climbed in before me, and as I slid onto the bench seat, it hit me that I

was finally going to fly! Everyone else soon joined us, and we were up, up and away! The pilot spiralled up into the sky, before flying eastwards to give us a beautiful view of the Bay of Islands. The view was incredible from high up, and you could see miles out to sea too. Paihia, where we were staying, looked so tiny, and just when I thought we must almost be at the top, Andy showed me his altimeter. We were at six thousand feet with ten thousand more to go before we

Photo credit: Yukon Dive

EARL GREY


jumped! When we finally reached sixteen thousand feet, my face hurt from smiling behind my oxygen mask. The views were spectacular, like a postcard spread out beneath us, interspersed with small, cartoon-like clouds drifting across the backdrop of the Bay of Islands. It was time: the door opened, the noise increased, and we got the green light from the pilot. I was last to jump, so after watching the others

disappear through the door like drops from a tap, I shuffled forward with Andy, who directed me to hang my legs from the aircraft. I held on to my harness, tipped my head back, and with another smile for the camera, we were away! We spun upside down, glimpsing our last view of the plane, before facing the earth once more. The noise was incredible, the rushing of air past my ears louder than I had imagined possible, and I couldn’t have stopped smiling if my life had

depended on it. I could see the world spread out beneath me like a giant map and at that moment I truly understood what it was like to fly! Once seventy exhilarating seconds were over, we pulled the parachute and everything suddenly became peaceful. The silence under the canopy was strange after the rush of descent; like entering another world, or putting your head underwater while swimming. Another few words for the camera and a high five for

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Andy, before I got the chance to fly the parachute for myself. This was a completely different kind of flying; slower, peaceful, swinging in loops and turns over the earth. The buildings and scenery below us slowly came into focus as we continued to

descend. I handed the controls back to Andy, and we made our way down, looping over the dropzone before landing gently on the grass. My legs were shaking and once Andy had detached me from his harness, he turned me around and

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asked me to describe my experience, using just one word, in any language. I am not often speechless, but it took me a few moments to finally grin and say: ‘incredible!’ before laughing at the feeling of sheer delight coursing through my veins. As Andy escorted me back inside, and helped me out of my harness, I kept shaking my head, almost unable to believe what I had just done. I had spent my whole life yearning to fly, to spend time above the clouds, to see what the earth looked like from Superman’s point of view, and now I had finally achieved it. My face ached from smiling, and my legs still shook with the adrenaline, but I was ecstatic. I would never forget this experience. I would never forget the way the wind rushed at me like a physical force, the way I felt a split second before we jumped, and when we landed; exhilarated and immensely happy. If, over time, the memory did start to fuzz and blur at the edges, I would have my memory stick with HD video and photo evidence of my day. Before we were driven in style back to Paihia, we were given the opportunity to re-live the experience. Sitting in the cosy cinema at Skydive Bay of Islands; laughing at each others’ faces in free fall and trying to take in the fact that we had fallen 3 miles from a plane and survived to tell the tale!

Phone: 09 431 7417 5 Church Road, Matakohe, Northland www.gotravelnewzealand.com 195


Ultimate Tourister

by Linda Steabben

R

ecently my life changed for the better when I was informed by the lovely Marli from FRANk Media that I was the winner of the American Tourister Australia and New Zealand & Go Travel New Zealand Magazine ‘Queenstown Extravaganza competition’ which included THE most wonderful American Tourister Prismo suitcase, (incidentally the new love of my life), …AND the most amazing trip to stunning Queenstown, New Zealand. We flew with Jetstar and were impressed with the efficient service and friendly smiles of all the Jetstar personnel. The flight in to Queenstown is surprising and exhilarating. One minute you are flying within the mountains and seconds later safely on the ground. An incredible flight! Accommodation was at Earnslaw Lodge. What can you say? Million dollar service, squillion dollar views, spotlessly clean, AMAZINGLY comfortable (with ‘wish I had’) beds. ‘Earne-ing’ a 5 star smile, … available at budget prices too. It was hard to drag ourselves from the view but we had exploring to do and the hearty breakfasts served each morning were the perfect start to each days adventures. The zippy hire car from Omega Car rentals seemed as excited as we were to head off to explore, with lake and mountain views bombarding us at every twist and turn. Our first port of call was Glenorchy. A delightful 45 minute drive, this quaint town is easily accessible providing an array of unique galleries, cafes, picnic locations, horse riding opportunities and of course a much loved pub.

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We were tempted to stay for lunch but were lured back to Queenstown by our restaurant reservation at ‘Botswana Butchery’, where fantastic service, a stylish menu and quality settings made for a memorable lunch. Botswana Butchery is conveniently (and picturesquely) located on the waterfront near the Kawarau Jet Boat ‘Two Rivers’ depot and underwater observatory. We were excited to try both and were glad we did. The jetboat provided an exhilarating mix of scenic beauty combined with adrenalin rushes from 360-degree spins, laughter and WOW moments. Everyone deserves this much fun and wind through their hair once in a while! On departing the jet boat we descended the stairs of the underwater observatory where we discovered a coin slot to release food encouraging a feeding frenzy of HUGE salmon, gleaming trout, greedy ducks and a decidedly creepy GIANT black eel all enjoying the free lunch. A unique experience well worth a visit, promising fun for all ages. My husband doesn’t ski but he does enjoy delicious hot chocolate and where better to sip a steaming mug than on Coronet Peak whilst watching the ski and snowboarding fun. What a stunning location and SO close to town making it an easy drive and great outing whether you ski or not! How cute to watch the tiny toddlers whizzing along on their skis on the nursery slopes. Show offs! Lunch was a world famous Fergburger. The queue proves its popularity but moves with effortless ease ensuring you’re in hamburger heaven in no time. With buns baked next door at Fergbakery you can be

assured each bite is freshly delicious. You cannot go to Queenstown without trying a Fergburger. The next morning started crisply with the beauty and novelty of snow but by afternoon the sky cleared providing us with the opportunity to experience an item from my bucket list, … do yourselves a favour, add it to yours too! A fly – cruise – fly trip into Milford Sound with Glenorchy Air who offer a unique range of affordable flights in state of the art 8 seater Gippsland GA8 Airvans. This ultimate small plane has wings above the windows ensuring uninterrupted and truly spectacular views for everyone. You may even find yourself seated up front as ‘co pilot’, … like me! Flying over Queenstown township we followed Lake Wakatipu to Glenorchy to pick up two more passengers which happily provided us with a fun bonus landing and takeoff on a grassed runway. The colours of the lake, countryside and snow capped mountains couldn’t be any more spectacular. From Glenorchy we soared over snow covered mountain outcrops that felt close enough to touch rising row after row before us. Our friendly, knowledgeable pilot pointed out landmarks including bushwalker huts, glaciers, mountain ranges and film locations from the Lord of the Rings. Suddenly the landscape changed as we descended past the Tutoko Glacier into the rain forests surrounding Milford Sound. We flew the length


of Milford Sound getting close and personal to waterfalls and cliff faces before landing and joining a relaxing but exhilarating Southern Discoveries Cruise to experience ‘the Sound’ from a different perspective. We cruised the magical waters in comfort right to the Tasman Sea to feel the power of the swell before returning to the calm and almost mythical Milford Sound waters. We were lucky to see resident seals sunning themselves on the rocks and graceful dolphins followed our boat to top off an already perfect magical day. The homeward flight was equally spectacular and our pilot took us on a different course so we experienced a number of new wondrous sights. A huge thanks to Glenorchy Air for the experience of a lifetime. In the evening we boarded the Skyline Gondola to rise 450 meters above Queenstown. Skyline Gondola is a feat of engineering cut into the hill overlooking the panoramic delights of the expanses of Queenstown and on to the Remarkables, Cecil and Walter Peaks and of course Lake Wakatipu. Queenstown is the town made for superlatives but the view truly is dramatic, spectacular and truly amazing! My camera will demand a holiday after this trip as it’s working hard! We enjoyed the Kiwi Haka showcasing the traditional song and dance of the Maori people. The fearsome Haka and the poi display were well received and were at times ‘hands on’ encouraging willing participants to join the show, which was great fun. After the show we enjoyed a buffet to die(t) for! Quality AND quantity with every mouthful showcasing fresh

produce and local products including green-lipped mussels and venison cooked to perfection. The next day was AJ Hackett adventure day. These Bungy experts offer an array of activities and I was out to prove you don’t have to be a 20 year old adrenaline junky to experience an awesome time in Queenstown. I couldn’t quite bring myself to attempt a bungy jump but I spent an entertaining hour mesmerized by all those braver than I (of all ages) leaping headfirst off the bridge spanning the fast flowing Kawarau River. Some screamed, others leapt silently but all had my heart leaping out of my chest even from the viewing platform. I then got strapped into a harness for an exhilarating 130m; 60kph ride on the zip line. With a choice of sitting, ‘flying’, upside down or backwards this is an activity for all ages. Kitted out with my own go-pro I filmed the run as I went and it was sensational fun. A big enough rush for me! A short drive away was the Gibbston Valley Cheesery and delicafé. Here we stopped to sample an exquisite range of award winning sheep, cow and goat milk cheeses which proved to be a party for my tastebuds. I left with a delicious take home pack along with gourmet goodies including honey, fudge and also some new ‘art-gallery’ quality cheese knives. A delightful place to visit and spend an hour or two. Further down the road is the picturesque old gold mining town, Arrowtown. A busy hub of activity offering a day of gold mining history, shopping, dining, river walks, spectacular photography opportunities, … and my favourite.

Gold panning! For just $5 we hired a pan to have a go at finding ourselves a huge nugget, … but settled on a shiny flake. Great fun for kids and adults alike. No trip to Queenstown is complete without a ride on the TSS Earnslaw Vintage Steamship. This beautiful Steamer was built in 1912 to service the farming communities and the trip includes open licence to explore the boilers, engine room, promenade deck, wheel bridge and saloon. You can sit back and take in the views whilst enjoying a delicious hot chocolate or mulled wine or enjoy snacks from the bar, head to the back for an interactive museum experience or enjoy the pianist playing in the warmth of the indoor saloon. You have the option to disembark at the destination of Walter Peak High Country Farm to enjoy a world class BBQ lunch or dinner and a range of activities including horse riding, cycling or visiting the woolshed, red deer and working sheep dog displays. Holiday time was running out for me, but I promise myself I’ll be back soon and there was still time for one more fun activity. Dark Ride XD Theatre offers a range of 7D and 6D movie ride simulators where you can experience a choice of a range of interactive adventures. We chose to power through space on a rollercoaster and then fought zombies using the world’s fastest targeting system. Thanks to the team at Go Travel New Zealand Magazine, American Tourister Australia & New Zealand and FRANk Media for the holiday of a lifetime! This is one week I’ll never forget. www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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American Tourister Prismo range ‘Takes on The World’ Since its inception by Sol Koffler in 1933, American Tourister has grown to become one of the most trusted and recognised brand names with a heritage that spans over 78 years. With the aquisition by Samsonite in 1994, the company continues its tradition of marrying superior quality and design at a great value, offering a wide selection of travel gear targeted at the masses. American Tourister caters for the cool traveller with its bright and bold Prismo collection. Prismo is the perfect answer for lightweight, chic design and practical features. With pearl gloss finish, this reflection composes a two-tone like stripe pattern under the light. • 360 degree multidirectional spinner wheels • Fully lined interior • TSA approved combination lock • Made of Polycarbonate (PC) and Arclonitrile Butadiene Styrene (ABS), the Prismo range is lightweight sturdy construction. • There are 5 vibrant colours to choose from - magenta, neon green, royal blue, orange, purple. It’s also available in charcol. American Tourister Prismo comes in 55cm, 65cm and 75cm spinner cases. Visit www.americantourister.com.au to locate your nearest store. RRP: AUD $259-$299 www.samsoniteaustralia.com www.facebook/SamsoniteAustraliaNZ

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