Go Travel New Zealand Autumn 2014 by Waterford Press Limited

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Autumn Edition 2014

OUR SWEET LORDE

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EDITOR’S CORNER Editor-in-chief Gary J Cody gary@waterfordpress.co.nz +62 (0)22 431 0208 Publisher James Lynch Golf editor Steve Khatib General Manager Rex Lynch Senior Designer Daniel Grey Graphic Designer Sadhna Nath Customer Services Sarah Bell Administration, Helen Bourne, Jill Holland Subscriptions Jill Holland North Island Sales Manager Alex Lynam alex@waterfordpress.co.nz South Island Sales Manager Chris McPhee chris.mcphee@waterfordpress.co.nz NZ, Australian and International Distribution Gordon and Gotch Jetstar In-Flight Digital New Zealand Head Office Waterford Press 112 Wrights Road Addington Christchurch. +64 (0) 3 9835500 Arrowtown Office 25 Merioneth St P.O. Box 42 Arrowtown 9351 +64 (0) 3 983 5507 Melbourne Office 76 The Boulevard, Ivanhoe, Victoria 3079 +61 4 16 326 464 Published by

Kia Ora New Zealand is blessed at present with young women who are excelling internationally in their chosen professions. Lorde is arguably our most well known international celebrity especially with the younger ‘top of the pops’ set. A humble young woman who walked away with 2 Grammys a few weeks ago. Royal and elegant, she certainly is Our Sweet Lorde ! Lydia Ko, another 17 year old known more for her ‘swing’ than swinging melodies also rates internationally. Hailing from Auckland, Lorde’s hometown, Lydia’s rise to stardom has been extremely fast. She is number 4 on the international LPGA ladder and has taken out her first pro tournament after only a few weeks as a professional. More on Lydia next edition The NZ Open has just been held in Queenstown. Steve Khatib plays the wonderful Queenstown courses and lets the readers know how to take on the different challenges that courses like The Hills pose. Our ever-fearless Mitch relates some heart pumping experiences that our intrepid readers can find in New Zealand if they choose to feel the adrenaline pump. A small entree for the winter edition tells what Cardrona has to offer this coming season. The skifield with the most consistent snow and open days in the region. Take a trip through our amazing regions with so many different activities and attractions to make your holiday worthwhile. Our travel writers have had time to research, experience and suggest some of the best activities, attractions and accommodation. We look forward to bringing you a bumper winter edition in June. Meanwhile enjoy the read and our great little country. Hei konā mai

ISSN 2200-5021 (Print) ISSN 2200-5013 (Digital)

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Gary J Cody Editor-in-chief

CONTENTS

LORDE 8 ADRENALINE 10 ENTREE TO WINTER 18 GOLF 22

REGIONS NORTHLAND

AUCKLAND

WAIKATO

ROTORUA

COROMANDEL

TAUPO

MARLBOROUGH

BULLER

WEST COAST

KAIKOURA

HURUNUI

TEKAPO/MT COOK

DUNEDIN

WANAKA

ARROWTOWN

QUEENSTOWN

FIORDLAND

SOUTHLAND

102

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OUR SWEET LORDE.

Amidst a world of calculating contest winners, manufactured show ponies and cheap knock offs â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Lorde is a true original, writes Gary Cody.

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he is Ella Yelich-O’Connor, born and raised on Auckland’s North Shore, and possessed of a singular ability to capture the majesty, and mundanity, of teenage life – in striking melodic snapshots that belie her age and experience. Raised on a nutritious musical diet of Neil Young, Fleetwood Mac, The Smiths and Nick Drake, alongside a smattering of soul food from the likes of Etta James and Otis Redding, Ella was definitely set off on strong melodic footing. Later she discovered artists like James Blake, Bon Iver, Burial, Animal Collective, SBTRKT and Drake – all of whom made an impact in their own, individual way. As vital and varied as those influences are, they don’t really begin to tell the full story of Lorde’s music, which melds concentrated, sharp-eyed lyrics and multi-layered vocals with crisp, 2013 beatscapes. The decision to release her first EP, with plenty of mystery but no marketing or publicity, and just a simple, lifelike illustration, was Lorde’s, and it was a masterstroke. Even after 60,000 free downloads on SoundCloud, The Love Club EP still shot to #1 on the New Zealand Album Chart, with Royals simultaneously occupying the top spot in the singles chart – without so much as a video on YouTube. Before any of that success, she was already the focus of a hotly contested bidding war, rapidly being signed up for the UK, US and other major territories, simply on

the strength of her music and blindingly obvious potential alone. Tweeted about by everyone from Grimes to Sky Ferreira to Doomtree, and picked up by Buzzfeed, Perez Hilton et al – these are the beginnings of an impending roar, about an artist who is quite simply, cut from a different cloth. Like most overnight success stories, the reality is considerably less glamorous, and more lengthy and involved. Working with Universal for three years prior to The Love Club EP, the sparks really started flying when she collaborated with producer and songwriter, Joel Little. In him she found someone who could really help in getting the songs out of her head and into yours, and a willing accomplice when she needs to spend the best part of a day making a hi hat sound more like an insect, or suchlike. With a mother who is a celebrated poet herself, Ella was given an early grounding in the essentials from the likes of T.S.Eliot, Ezra Pound, Allan Ginsberg, Raymond Carver and Sylvia Plath. That combination of higher thought and word passion, taken with visual influences ranging from The Sopranos and Brick, through to Sofia Coppola’s The Virgin Suicides, makes for a heady combination – but it’s what Ella does with it all that is truly unique. Rejecting the trite banalities that are usually presumed to represent a 17 year olds outlook, the music of Lorde manages to capture the very essence

of the frustration and freedom, the curiosity and confidence, and the plain old wonder of teenage life, in a truly unique way. Lorde took over the Grammy stage a few weeks ago. Donning uncharacteristically straight hair and a black-and-white pantsuit, the 17-yearold singer started with a stripped-down rendition of her smash song before crescendoing into the radio version. Lorde was also up for four awards at the show, which was held at the Staples Center in Los Angeles. “Royals” earned nods for Record of the Year, Song of the Year and Best Pop Solo Performance, winning Grammy Awards for Record of the Year and Best Pop Solo Performance. “Pure Heroine,” her debut album, was nominated for Best Pop Vocal Album. Lorde was one of a handful of snubs in the Best New Artist category. The singer saw a successful debut year in 2013, during which “Royals” sat at No. 1 on the Billboard Hot 100 for nine consecutive weeks. Lorde also released “Tennis Court” and “Team,” the latter peaking at No. 11. Other performers at the 56th annual Grammy Awards included Macklemore and Ryan Lewis with Madonna, Taylor Swift, Katy Perry, Paul McCartney and Ringo Starr. LL Cool J hosted the show. New Zealand is blessed with young talent and we will feature another 17 year old international sensation in our winter edition watch this space.

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Visit Voyager Auckland’s waterfront Maritime Museum

Cast off for a journey to discover New Zealand’s story. Try your hand at yacht design, relax in the bach, hoist the sails, hear the cannon fire, test your sea legs and batten down the hatches in the rocking cabin. Harbour sailings twice a day, Tuesday – Sunday.

Open 9.00am-5.00pm, 7 days a week Corner Quay & Hobsons Streets Viaduct Harbour, Auckland Ph: +64 9 373 0800 www.maritimemuseum.co.nz

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o t y d a Re

Shred!

As we pack our snowboards into the rental car its hard not to be distracted by the aircraft as they bank around the mountains of Queenstown, making their descent into the world’s ‘adventure capital’. Soon enough we will be as high as those planes and surrounded by snow, the white gold which brings hundreds of thousands to the Southern Lakes of New Zealand every winter.

There are several ski fields within short driving distance of Queenstown, the closest being around 30 minutes away. With four mountains to choose from we asked around the local stores in Queenstown for recommendations. One name that kept popping up from ski store staff was ‘Cardrona’ or ‘Cardies’ as the locals call it. We were soon convinced by the locals that a 60 minute drive to Cardrona was worth the drive time. Sporting the slogan: “Fun Guaranteed”…we simply had to put it to the test. The next morning we hit the road to Cardrona. The journey felt quicker than an hour, driving over New Zealand’s highest road: The Crown Range, was a scenic smorgasbord in itself. The views from the range are outstanding, especially in winter with the vast snowcapped mountains towering over the lakes and green countryside. Shortly after popping out of the range we are greeted with a line of traffic all turning left at the large red ‘Cardrona’ sign. As we start our trek up the gravel mountain road we are greeted by smiling staff 18

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members waving us good morning and spot a large Penguin sitting on a wall grasping a fishing rod. It’s a strange sight and gives us all a laugh, the friendly welcome reassures us that we were in for quite a unique alpine experience. This was amplified again 10 minutes up the mountain road when we spotted a colourful lady in a crazy fairy outfit standing on a rock, smiling and waving her wand at every car that passed. “Did we just see that?” my friend questioned, it was starting to feel a bit like a very happy dream.

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At the top of the road we are greeted by a young lad wearing a high vis vest and a big grin who guides us into our parking spot. The place is alive with people getting ready for a big day on the slopes. Kids are already making snowballs, friends are laughing with each other, parents organising their families are directed to the base area by more smiling staff members. We haven’t even got on a chairlift yet and the atmosphere is already buzzing with excitement. Since we had already purchased

our passes from the Cardrona office in Queenstown our one stop before hitting the slopes was the rental department to kit my friend out with ski gear. Getting our rentals was all done with a tap of our lift pass (an electronic card with our purchased products already loaded) and soon we were walking our way through the brightly coloured base area to the chairlifts. Cardrona spans across three wide basins, the first two are clearly visible from the base area and were a hive of activity today. “Woah!” my friend gasped as he caught a glimpse of a snowboarder boosting out of the Olympic sized halfpipe, spinning a couple rotations before landing back down its massive walls. Although our initial impression of Cardrona was all smiles and friendly welcomes, we quickly realised that there was a lot more to this place. Turns out Cardrona is a popular training ground for professional winter freestyle athletes and is a designated stop on both skiing and snowboarding world cup freestyle circuits. The well-known ‘Wells’ family call Cardrona their home mountain, growing up in the closest town of Wanaka where Cardrona is a mere 30 minute drive away. The four Wells brothers have succeeded internationally and put New Zealand on the map

as a freestyle Mecca for those in the competitive Snowsports industry. The older of the brothers, Jossi, has stood on the podium at the Winter X Games and was his nation’s top contender for a medal at this year’s Sochi Winter Olympic games. The New Zealand Olympic team also included two of his brothers, Byron and Beau James, who are also Cardrona ‘Team Riders’. It is easy to see why this mountain is considered the home of freestyle terrain in the Southern Hemisphere. 21 of this year’s Winter Olympic freestyle medallists trained at Cardrona in 2013. As we ride the chairlift we’re able to feast our eyes on numerous high flyers launch from the pipe walls or fly 60+ feet over the jumps in the terrain park. The day was epic to say the least. Bluebird skies, pristine snow conditions and wide open runs provided some lasting memories. The longest run is around 4km so it offers some thigh

burning laps to its lowest ‘Valley View’ chairlift. As we explore the mountain we are taken away by the breathtaking views which include Queenstown, Lake Wakatipu, Lake Hawea and the Cardrona Valley. From the top of the hill the base area looks like a colourful cartoon land. We decide to eat at ‘The Noodle Bar’ one of Cardrona’s five unique cafes in a large building which also contains a nursery and kindy for the little ones. Cardrona seems a perfect option for families as it boasts 4 kids’ centres and is well known for its various snow school programmes and quality of instructors. As we park up on the deck to enjoy our Asian style noodle box we are gifted a perfect view of the learner slope and the action from the halfpipe. The Penguin seems to have stopped fishing for the day and is now

high-fiving all the kids who are smitten by the large creature, totally oblivious to the randomness of a penguin being a mountain mascot! A truly unique, welcoming and exciting snow experience, Cardrona Alpine Resort is a ‘must do’ activity in the Southern Lakes of New Zealand. Whether you’re staying in the lively bustle of Queenstown or prefer the mellow, relaxed vibe of Wanaka, Cardrona is a purely amazing destination for all types of snow lovers. Whatever the level, you truly are guaranteed loads of fun at Cardrona.

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REMARKABLE

GOLF

by Steve Khatib

Millbrook Golf has taken me to various exotic locations throughout the world but I can honestly say I have never experienced more spectacular views than I have playing golf in Queenstown. Home of the New Zealand Open the region is by its namesake simply Not to mention the views flying Jetstar into Queenstown Airport. It is so convenient flying over Friday afternoon and playing golf Friday afternoon and all weekend flying back early Monday Im back in my office by lunchtime Monday. After landing and stepping onto the tarmac I took a deep breath of the fresh Southern Kiwi mountain air and knew I was back in The Wakatipu. I picked up my bags and collected my hire car and made the 20-minute drive from the airport to the highly acclaimed five star Millbrook Resort where I was greeted with a warm welcome by the staff. They took their time to explain all the wonderful features of this amazing resort. Whether you are a golfing enthusiast or just want to relax and get away from it all Millbrook has something for everyone. So much to do and not enough time to do it all, I thought. So 22

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after checking into my room I thought I would head over to the pool, spa and sauna to relax. The transition from the sauna air to the fresh mountain air invigorated me in preparation for a big night ahead. I took the Millbrook courtesy shuttle into Arrowtown, destination the New Orleans Hotel. Arrowtown is a historic scenic former gold rush town that was a rich source of gold in the 1860â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s; it attracted many international visitors from across the globe looking to strike it rich. It is a multicultural town that strongly holds onto its heritage due to the village association committee. I arrived in the heart of Arrowtown, at the famous Buckingham Street and the New Orleans Hotel ready to experience Southern Kiwi culture at its best; an All Black Rugby test match live on the big screen. The busy, very hands on publican Peter Whittaker made to time introduce me to some of the locals while I waited for my local friends to arrive. The New Orleans Hotel had roaring log fires, live music, a range of the best southern kiwi beers on tap, great local meals and most importantly

at atmosphere with so many local characters that would rival anywhere for a Saturday night. After some famous Bluff Oysters and freshly bake bread the game was ready to start and the hotel was the only place to be in Arrowtown. After an emphatic All Black win, my friends and strolled up the street to the Blue Door, a quaint popular wine bar that is home to some of the most famous Pinotâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s in the world. The owner Peter Whittaker informed me of the fact that the climate of the Southern Lakes region is ideal for this variety of grape and I for one can strongly attest to that! The next day I must confess I was a little dusty from the previous evenings festivities. So I headed over to the Millbrook Clubhouse for a hearty breakfast and strong cup of coffee to awaken the golfing brain. I was excited to play the course designed by Sir Bob Charles that hosts the national open, so with twenty-seven holes ahead of me I teed off on the Remarkables nine with an opening par five to commence with. This nine hole is set at the base of the Remarkables mountain range and has some truly fabulous holes. My favourite

hole on this nine was without doubt the par five fifth hole. This dogleg right par five provides an option for longer hitters that can avoid bunkers off the tee to negotiate the lakes on the right hand side and potentially reach the green with their second shot. Otherwise an accurate lay up will be required to allow you to hit the narrow long green in regulation. The fifth is followed by two fine short holes. The medium length par three sixth hole demands an accurate shot to a green guarded by sand left and right and water at the front. The short par four seventh is a classic risk reward hole. A bunker is strategically positioned in the centre of the fairway to catch many a tee shot. Golfers may also see their ball roll off the elevated green to the right if they are not careful and do not allow themselves to aim far enough to the left for the sloping green. I luckily just managed to avoid the bunker off the tee driving just short of the green setting myself up for a confidence boosting birdie after a slow start to my round. I finished the Remarkables nine well and now back at the clubhouse tee off on the Arrow nine. The Arrow nine is closet to the Arrowntown village. I was greeted with another par five this was much narrower and speaking from experience I would lay up well back from the pond and mill stream of the left hand side of the green. My favourite holes where the par four sixth and par three night. The

Queenstown sixth has a creek that meanders across the fairway and has a green guarded by deep bunkers on the right hand side. The ninth is a real classic short finishing par three. Only a short iron to a green that is surrounded by water the ninth provides a great finish to a round with a many outcomes possible if scores are close within the group. The new Coronet nine is designed by Kiwi professional and former International Presidents Cup team member Greg Turner. I was surprised to hear that it had only just been opened in May 2010. It had more of a links

feel with holes winding through natural terrain with great views of Coronet Peak amongst the schist rocks, pot bunkers and natural grasses. The par five sixth hole had two fairways on one hole separated by a creek that runs directly through the middle of the fairway. Decisions, decisions, I ended up taking the right hand side fairway due to the back left pin location and made a safe par. I really loved the visually intimidating par three seventh that followed with its rock wall backdrop; gee I was glad I selected the right club! The round finished with the downhill par five ninth

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hole. The green is set in front of a creek and with the traditional backdrop of The Millhouse Restaurant, where I enjoyed some great local seasonal dishes for an early dinner. My thoughts of Millbrook where that the diverse nines and terrain made for such an interesting experience. Personally I could not separate the Remarkables or Coronet nines, the mountain and links nines at one facility give Millbrook the best of both worlds. Speaking from personal experience, I can completely endorse Millbrookâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recent ranking position as one of the top fifteen resorts in Australasia; it has the complete package.

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The next day I headed through to the other side of the village to the quaint visually stunning Arrowtown Golf Club. As I arrived at the club I honestly did not know what to expect and in fact was pleasantly surprised by the course. Arrowtown had a real country, provincial welcoming feel to it, Mark in the pro shop joined me up with some of the locals and I really enjoyed my round of which I only needed to use my driver on five occasions. The course has two distinctive nines either side of the Centennial Avenue. The front nine has numerous slopes and schist rocks strategically positioned to catch your ball. Some of the views from the elevated

tees, especially the ninth tee are amazing however as I found out this is a course that places a premium on accuracy so donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be fooled into using your driver more than absolutely necessary. After I crossed the road to the back nine set on the banks of the Arrowtown River, I also found that the firm, true, small greens need to be approached with care. Should you miss the greens on the wrong side I found it nearly impossible to chip close to the hole. The eighteenth hole makes for a great finish to the round and is known as the signature hole of the course. I avoided the water that was lurking left of the fairway, however I needed to take an extra club to make

it to the green. Instead my ball rolled several metres back down the slope off the front of the green; so don’t be fooled by the deceptive distance of your approach. I headed back into the clubhouse for a Speights amber ale with the locals and they told me all about how proud they were of the history of their club that is over one hundred years old. Arrowtown in autumn with all of the deciduous trees set amongst the mountains is a really stunning course. The Hills Golf Club was the final course of my Arrowtown swing. I drove up McDonnell Road and actually drove past the entrance gates. You see the

The Hills Golf Club is set on a private property owned by the famous jeweller Michael Hill, which had started as a practice hole in his backyard; so the low key wooden gates have a very small sign and intercom service to allow you in the drive. From that moment onwards as you drive up the entrance road to modern clubhouse set tastefully set into the landscape nothing is understated. The Hills Golf Club that has hosted many tournaments such as the New Zealand PGA and currently is joint host to the New Zealand Open is aptly named as it is set over five hundred acres of land that has rolling hills, wetlands, lakes, native grasses and tussocks that grab your ball should you stray off line. The panoramic views that I experienced from many of the elevated tees of the mountains and Arrowtown village are breathtaking and somewhat distracting in a positive way. I found myself stopping on many occasions to take photographs, which was no problem as golfers will never feel rushed on this course. Craig and Julie at the clubhouse made me feel most welcome and gave me some interesting insights on course. I drove my cart to the first tee ready for a medium length par five opening hole that was playing downwind. A perfect start for me hitting the green in two a two putting for birdie. Make no mistake this is not an easy course, as I found out soon after, there are a mixture of short and long holes which total length from the back tees measures over 6500 metres. The most challenging hole I found on the front nine was the par three fourth hole. A visually intimidating hole from the tee with water short and right of the green and bunkers and tussocks that surround the green the wind plays a big part of club selection here. Due to the strong cross winds, I conservatively bailed out to the left and found the green side bunker. Although this was not an easy bunker shot to a firm sloping green, alas I made a bogey four, which could have been much worse. Every hole at The Hills is unique so there is no real distinction between the back or front nine styles. Other holes that captured my imagination where the par five thirteenth a dogleg par five that is well set into the terrain with a series of bunkers on the right and long rough on the left. The green is almost three clubs deep so depending on the location of the pin it could be anything from a

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wedge to mid iron shot to the flag. The controversial par three sixteenth is often a talking point amongst my pro golfing circles. A glutton for punishment, I decided to play it from the back tees and ensured I did not find the bryne but failed to hold the green with my hybrid shot. Next time I will play it from the middle tees for sure. The next and penultimate hole is the signature hole and most photographed on the course. A par five that has a narrow fairway working its way through a canyon guarded by fairway bunkers. The green has many undulations to it also which can make for a long putt should your approach not find the correct section of the green. I agree with most about its signature hole status, as this was also my favourite

hole apart from its obvious picturesque nature, but because it challenged me to think differently about every shot. The Hills Golf Club is a must golf experience if you are travelling to the Queenstown area and I while playing the course, whether you are artistically inclined or not I urge you all to take your time to appreciate the growing number of modern sculptures by local artists that Michael Hill has strategically positioned on almost every hole. I then headed to Queenstown for The Glebe Apartments; the most popular spot to stay if are a golfing in the Queenstown area. Anne Henley was such a welcoming host and knows everything that golfers need to enjoy their stay while off the links. Anne

Queenstown

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organised the Cecil Peak Penthouse Suite for my stay at The Glebe and looking directly out the window I could see Lake Wakatipu and the Queenstown night skyline. Wanting something casual and easy going for dinner, I took Anneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s recommendation and strolled down to The Cow for a pizza and I was extremely pleased that I did. The next day I drove around to the other side of the lake to play the Queenstown Golf Club at Kelvin Heights. The club was recently voted New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most scenic golf course and is really enjoyable to play. Queenstown is not an overly long course and is set amongst pine trees on undulating land on the banks of Lake Wakapitu with the Remarkable mountain range as a backdrop. Golfers also have views across the lake to Queenstown and its surrounding villages. I found some appeal with every hole, but the holes that really stood out to me where the par four fifth, the signature hole of the course where I was temped to drive too close to the lake that guards the left hand side of the fairway and my ball found a watery grave. Also the downhill par three eleventh hole, a short

hole where it is very tricky to gauge the correct club selection due to its elevation and the wind the normally blows directly into your face off the lake behind the green. I did however fire a punch seven iron safely onto the putting surface for a two putt par. After lunch in the clubhouse, I made the short drive to Jacks Point, the grand finale of my trip this time. Jacks Point was a community like no other; the whole area is a completely different way of life. With the Remarkables mountain range located so close to you that it feels like you could actually hit your ball into them, rolling land that is a golf course designers dream with so many holes appearing to have been there for hundreds of years and surrounded on the other side of the property by Lake Wakapitu. So many activities are happening at the one time other than golf with walking trails, sky diving and cycling just to name a few, yet there is a stillness peace and tranquillity around the golf course that makes you feel like your group is alone on the links. The Golf Professional and General Manager John Griffin runs a great

complex with nothing too much trouble to assist me in enjoying my round. The course itself makes its way from the lodge at the first tee near the razorback Remarkables to the Lake Wakapitu. Throughout there are many natural grass tussocks and schist rock strategically used by course architect John Darby in the design. It has has some traditional stone fences throughout the course which do remind me of classic links courses such as North Berwick in Scotland My favourite hole was the short par three seventh hole that has a green located directly on the edge of Lake Wakapitu. I played my 9 iron safely onto the front edge of the green and escaped with a par; however the wind can be a factor so ensure your club of choice is shorter rather than longer or an over aggressive shot will pay the price. Playing Jacks Point once is not enough and it seems that I am not the only one that thinks this. Many organised groups, such as Timâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Remarkables Golf Tour groups choose to play Jacks Point several times during their stay in Central Otago; so the club have devised a a

rate that is nearly fifty percent cheaper should you wish to play Jack Point on a second occasion. A great idea in my opinion, so I will be back next time to play multiple rounds guaranteed. I headed back to The Glebe Apartments to freshen up, for one last night out in Queenstown before my direct flight back to Melbourne the next morning. My Queenstown golf experience exceeded my expectations and I will be back again with more time to immerse myself in all of the unique activities this region has to offer along with more golf of course. Steve Khatib founder of Golf Dynamics is an internationally respected authority on all matters golf, owing to his affiliations through many years spent with the worlds leading golf minds in the USA. Steve presents several popular radio and television programs throughout Australia and has been awarded PGA Teacher of the Year, PGA AAA Specialiast Coach and Master Clubfitter accreditations.

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Northland

A WEEKENED IN WHANGAREI Northland

Getting to the end of a long week in Auckland, we were feeling the need to see some new faces and spaces, to dip our toes in somewhere fresh. We hadnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t been north for sometime, and given the easy two hour road trip (just enough to start to unwind) we decided a weekend away in the warm climate of Whangarei was in order. 28

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e were able to head off on Friday afternoon and the traffic was pretty easy, the investment in the Highway north, including the Johnstone Hill tunnels (did we mention we hadn’t been north for a while!) has really paid off as once we got over the Auckland Harbour Bridge, travelling with the window down and some chill music on the radio was a breeze. 90 minutes later we were cresting the top of the Bryderwyn Hills and anticipating that magnificent view of the Bream Head standing sentry over the Whangarei Harbour and Bream Bay. We weren’t let down. It’s a stunner of a view and one that always makes us catch our breath. We settled into our motel accommodation (and very nice it was too) and then headed into the centre of the small city to forage. We strolled through the paved and planted outdoor mall and found plenty of restaurant and cafe options to choose from. The Killer Prawn Restaurant & Bar served us a meal of juicy steaks and prawns which left us well satisfied. Our plan for the following morning was to visit the Whangarei Growers Market held in the centre of the city.

We had heard plenty about this authentic growers market - evidently the oldest in New Zealand. It opens at 6am and closes at 10am so we set the alarm a little early to ensure we would be there in plenty of time. Fortified with very good coffee from the market, we made the most of the exceptional produce on offer and purchased some fresh as berries and summer fruit to enjoy later in the day. We loved the atmosphere of this market – lots of locals, lots of smiles,

buskers, lots of people stocking up on their week’s fruit and vege needs but also lots of people catching up with each other – a real community feel. By now we were a tad peckish. A number of cafes within a few minutes walk from the market were recommended and we chose Deluca. Wow. We were impressed! This is a cafe that would easily hold its own with the inner-city Auckland cafe scene, with great menu choices and

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some very, very yummy baking on offer. A friend had also recommended we check out Tuatara Design Store and Gallery (again, only short walk) for their local works of art and craft. We were impressed with a great selection of both traditional and contemporary NZ art sitting alongside some very affordable kiwiana kitsch and souvenirs. One of the reasons we chose Whangarei for our weekend get-away was that we had heard that there were many ‘best kept secret’ walks. After advice from the local Information Centre (and making sure we had a whole lot more information for future excursions) we decided to explore the Parihaka Scenic Reserves. This park has been a Green Flag Award Winner two years in a row – pretty impressive stuff as this is an award launched in England 16 years ago to reward the best parks and green spaces for their focus on conservation and sustainable practices. And yes, it really showed. This place is a just beautiful. The tracks are in good order and trail through native bush with many ferns including the iconic silver fern (go the All Blacks!) as well as the elegant, native nikau palm and

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mature examples of New Zealand native trees. We walked along the banks of the Hatea River (next time we’ll take bread to feed the ducks!), revelling in the many hues and scent of the forest, and crossed a solid footbridge before we began our ascent. Even though it’s known as Mount Parihaka, the walk up only took us about an hour to the top and we’re only moderately fit! The summit has extraordinary panoramic views of the city and harbour as well as being home to the World War II War Memorial. This obelisk glows red in the night sky and it and the mountain are local landmarks. Parihaka takes its name from the haka, or Māori war dance, and the mountain was sculpted by early Māori inhabitants into a pā or great fortress. It was also the site of a significant battle and massacre in the 1700s. Today, Parihaka is uninhabited other than by the local wildlife – it is a joy to hear the birdsong. We really enjoyed this walk. Basically, accessible from within the Whangarei CBD and easily doable within a few hours, it embraced us in its benign, beautiful nature and gave us a thorough escape from the urban environment.

Back to our motel for a quick regroup, we bundled back in to the car and set the GPS for Ocean Beach, Whangarei Heads. This was a forty minute drive along the inner Whangarei Harbour, and again, more sublime views of pretty little coves and beaches to a gorgeous sweep of white sand at Ocean Beach – favourite of many locals. An added bonus is the presence of the Surf Lifesaving Club from Labour Weekend to Easter. Standing on the viewing platform, looking out at the Pacific Ocean, it’s a ‘king of the world’ experience. And the kids boogie boarding down the huge sand dune at the north of the beach looked like they were having a good time too. Breathing that salty, clean air was just what our inner-city souls needed. Turning back inland, we stopped at the gastro pub at Parua Bay and kicked back. It felt just great to treat ourselves in this old tavern (established in 1902), our minds and bodies just melting into relax mode. The tavern sits almost on top of the water, indeed, it has its own jetty and evidently more than one husband who has been out ‘fishing’ has been caught out with their boat tied up at the tavern’s jetty!

What a great day! The next morning, our brunch destination was the Town Basin. Oh what a gorgeous surprise! A postcard-perfect marine precinct complete with yachts – in my opinion, easily as pretty as anything you’d see in Europe. We had only planned on eating brunch there but ended up spending most of the morning enjoying the shopping, museums (check out the Clock Museum – such fun!) and galleries. The owner of the cafe we ate at also told us the river walk was a ‘must do’. So we did. It was an easy flat stroll along the river’s edge and we loved the many sculptures along the way, particularly the ones that had children climbing all over them, and the signs that tell the historical stories of Whangarei. With just the afternoon left, we again sought local advice from the Information Centre and ended up wishing that we had allowed more time to head out to the coast and play in and on the water. Alas, it wasn’t to be but, we are now planning another excursion north to check out the Tutukaka coast and the worldclass snorkelling at the Poor Knights Islands. What we did choose was the Kingdom of Zion. Now this was another super cool experience. We’ve all seen lions and tigers on the TV or even from afar in a zoo. At Zion, you are metres away from

these extraordinary creatures and it was quite an epiphany to feel (yes, feel) the power that they carry. Even more up close and personal was the couple who did a tour that took them inside the enclosure with the Park’s two cheetahs (yes, accompanied by the keeper). Talking to them in the car park as we were leaving, they were absolutely buzzing saying it was a ‘once in a lifetime’ experience. Time to go. We made sure we had our route in place to see and drive over Whangarei’s new bridge, Te Matau a Pohe (The Fish Hook of Pohe). Why you might ask? Well, it’s totally unique bascule bridge (that is, the centre piece lifts up – I didn’t know that before either), and according to those in the know, an international award-winning example of architecture and engineering. What I do know is that it’s fun and looks amazing during the day and even more amazing at night lit up with lights. Okay, now it really was time to go. Driving south, we took our last detour to drive through the tiny village of Waipu. We didn’t need much encouragement to make the decision to visit The Pizza Barn, which even on a Sunday night was rocking. The refreshments were cold and the pizza was hot

(and delicious) and the crew knows exactly how to look after their patrons. Given it was Sunday evening, most of the village was closed, however, our interest was piqued by some very interesting stores, one a very inviting antique / second hand store that looked like it held many treasures for discovery. A quick Google search revealed that Waipu has markets every Saturday and some Sundays, along with many events throughout the year, often inspired by the historic Scottish settlement of the area. Refreshed from our absolutely successful weekend, we loaded back into the car for the journey south. Reflecting on the last couple of days, we realised how much we had enjoyed the weekend. We left so much un-done that we are now on a mission to get back and discover more exceptional walks, play in the water and just generally reconnect with ourselves and the stunning environment. Whangarei definitely left us with a smile on our faces.

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Auckland

A WHIRLWIND WEEKEND IN AUCKLAND by Rose Storey

Auckland

When you’ve only got a weekend to experience a city, what makes the cut? For some it’s a two-day shopping spree, for others it’s a steady stream of wining and dining. But I like to get off the beaten track a bit, and luckily that’s not hard to do in Auckland. Wine regions, islands, rainforest and near-deserted beaches are all well under an hour from the city centre.

hat means my husband and I could still set up camp somewhere stylish and central. Flying in from Sydney on a Friday evening, we checked into Hotel DeBrett. The hotel is a wonderful blend of quirky and sophisticated. With only 25 rooms and distinct design features, most notably its signature striped carpets, this is boutique accommodation at its best. Even better than the rooms though is the exceedingly cool loft bar and restaurant, DeBretts Kitchen. With its exposed brick and high ceilings, this could easily be New York. The perfect place for a few

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drinks before our whirlwind weekend. Up early on Saturday, our first adventure is one I’d booked well in advance – a ride out to the wild west coast on the back of a Harley Davidson with Bularangi Motorbikes. As we rumble out onto the streets, drivers and pedestrians turn their heads at the roar of 15 engines. Luckily my ‘driver’ Block was happy for me to hold on to him, but don’t worry gents, you don’t need to – you can cruise safely just holding the handles on the side. We’re heading out to Piha, one of Auckland’s most popular surf beaches. The ride takes us through

winding roads surrounded by the dense rainforest of the Waitakere Ranges (or ‘The Waitaks’ as the locals call them). It’s hard to believe such a huge expanse of rainforest – more than 16,000 hectares – is only 40 minutes from downtown.

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Rounding a curve, the coastline suddenly makes a dramatic appearance. The view is truly spectacular. It’s a sunny but windy day and the surf crashes onto the sweeping black sands, almost as if it’s putting on a show for us out-of-towners. We pull into a safe spot on the roadside to take pictures, none of which do the view justice. Cameras stowed away, we’re back on the Harleys and we’re soon at Piha. Overlooked by Lion Rock, it’s an impressive and beautiful stretch of beach, and wild enough to see why it’s watched over by the famous Piha Surf Club. Last time I was in Auckland I visited the more sheltered bays on the east – gentle waves, golden sands – and this could be a different city altogether. We have plenty of time for a wander along the black sands and snap some more pics. The black sands, we’re told, are because of their high iron content from the area’s volcanic rock. After talking to the riders more about the area, we decide then and there that we’ll be back tomorrow. More on that later. Arriving back in the city, I shake out my ‘helmet hair’ and we head off to explore some of the city. I always like to find something a bit different, and a spot called City Works Depot is just that. It’s the city’s latest foodie spot, with a handful of eclectic specialist eateries. Take your pick from, among other things, hand rolled bagels, roasted coffee, fresh seafood and delicious looking goodies in the rather flash bakery. The stand-out here though is Food Truck Garage, an uber-hip actual food truck serving ‘New Zealand’s healthiest fast food’. Think burger buns made with spelt flour, superfood favourites like kale in your salad, and no deep fryer to be seen. People are chilling out on the picnic tables with gourmet burgers and wraps, and a few stroll off with probiotic frozen yoghurt sundaes. However at hubby’s prompting, we head to Brothers Beer, a boutique brewery selling more than 200 bottled craft beers from New Zealand and around the world, plus 18 beers on tap. With so much choice it can take a while to decide, so we’re offered tastes of a few tap beers. Hubby tries – and loves – the Brothers’ own pale ale. I go for the Blade Pilsner, made by Leigh Sawmill Brewing Company, an independent brewery in the Auckland region’s north. We sat contentedly on our beers, nibbling on a thin-crust salami and red pepper pizza. Brothers Beer also has a tasting lounge and a retail store, and real beer lovers can even get flagons of the tap beers to take home.

Healthy gourmet american style bistro fare, with a full breakfast menu, lunch, dinner, and a bar featuring long happy hours cocktail jugs, buffalo wings, mac and cheese, and our own line of Johnny Beers on tap! Come check us out in the famous Wynyard Quarter on the Waterfront.

Ph 09 303 4153 141 Hasley St, Auckland 1010 www.johnnybarrs.com33 www.gotravelnewzealand.com

On our way back to the hotel, we check out the boutiques and independent bookstores in the streets around the hotel. High Street and Vulcan Lane are both worth checking out, and if you’re not there to shop, stop for a beer in the sun or a coffee instead. Tonight, it’s dinner out at Wynyard Quarter. The waterfront district has undergone a complete transformation in the last few years and the development continues. Wynyard Quarter has a strip of restaurants along North Wharf, all of which are packed inside and out. One of the newer additions is Miss Clawdy, which serves up authentic dishes from South and Central America. The menu is impressive, with everything from mains like gumbo to tacos, salads and sharing dishes. I can’t remember the last time I spent so long looking at a menu. The hubby eventually chooses the jambalaya with shrimp, andouille sausage chicken with a crayfish bourbon butter. I opt for a pulled pork Po’ boy’ and some enormous hand cut fries. Unfortunately there’s no room for dessert, but we have no regrets. Bright and early the next day we head back to Piha, but this time we’re here to ride the waves. We’ve joined a group of first-time surfers for a lesson with local surfer Phil Wallis at Piha Surf School.

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After suiting up, Phil takes us through the basics – how to position your body, how to pop up, how to keep stable. There’s lots of practice on the sand before we go anywhere near the water, including jumping up with our eyes closed. A tip from Phil – it’s all about positioning your feet. There’s a huge emphasis on safety too; Piha’s surf is legendary but currents can get very strong, so if you’re not an experienced surfer, don’t tackle the waves without one by your side. After slowly getting the hang of it, it’s time to hit the water. We only go out in groups of four so Phil can spend plenty of time with each of us one-on-one in the water. The idea is to make sure everyone catches at least one really good wave by the end of the lesson. He’s there by my side almost the whole time and after several ‘nearly-there’ attempts, I am suddenly riding my first wave. I am actually surfing. It’s a fantastic feeling, and even from that first taste I can see how it gets addictive. By the end of the lesson we’ve worked up quite an appetite, so we stop in at The Piha Café for lunch, just a few minutes up the road. It’s a lovely little building with exposed timber ceilings and lots of light. There’s a selection of tasty-looking cabinet food, salads, woodfired pizzas and a full brunch and lunch menu. We warm up

with strong coffees and pancakes. Continuing our wild west adventure, now we’re off to stretch our legs in the lush Waitakere Ranges we passed through on the Harley’s yesterday. The Arataki Visitor Centre is the place to start, for information, maps and guides on the many walking trails. We chat to the staff there about our options – the park has an incredible 250 kilometres of walking tracks, from 10-minute strolls to the renowned Hillary Trail, a four-day trek named after Sir Edmund Hillary. Many of the short walks are part of longer trails, so you can mix and match depending on how much time you’ve got and how many calories you want to burn off. We’re only after a short walk today, so the staff suggest the easy 45-minute walk to the popular Kitekite Falls. The track is wide and level with seats along the way, so this is definitely a good pick for those with small children, and you definitely don’t have to be a gym bunny to handle this one. Under a canopy of native kauri, nikau palms and silver tree ferns, the track follows a stream up to the falls. It’s a gorgeous spot, and I feel my whole body relax. We’re quite happy just to sit here for a while, watching the falls and listening to the birds. In the summer months you can cool off in the pools under the falls and according to our friends at Arataki Visitor Centre, you can even do the walk by night with a torch and check out the glow worms along the banks. The walk is a great way to end our trip. Two days of fresh air, good food, a spot of surfing and a walk through the rainforest and we’re leaving with that pleasantly drowsy feeling of a weekend well spent. Top of the ‘to do’ list next time we’re in Auckland? Canyoning down the Piha Gorge…

Auckland

...what else is there?

652 Great South Road, Manukau, Auckland, New Zealand +64 9 262 2435 | cafe@urbansoul.co.nz | www.urbansoul.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com

Waikato

THE TIMBER TRAIL

Waikato

More than just a backcountry cycling experience, the 85 km Timber Trail weaves its way through Pureora Forest Park from Pureora Village to Ongarue Township, with a distinct spirit of historical and cultural mysticism, and ecological diversity. One of the 23 trails which, make up Nga Haerenga – The New Zealand Cycle Trail, the Timber Trail is a combination Grade 2 and 3 cycling activity.

feeling of being suspended in time as you cross the impressive suspension bridges and ponder Mother Nature’s glorious architectural brilliance in carving out this hidden treasure (taonga) in the Central North Island. Begin your journey at Pureora Village; follow the cycle trail sign situated on State Highway 30 between Mangakino and Te Kuiti. Only a short 1-2 hour drive from Taupo, Rotorua and Hamilton, or 3-4 hours from Auckland, Napier, Palmerston North or New Plymouth. You will be greeted at the entrance to the Trail by the carved figurine 36

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of Te Kanawa, Maori warlord chief who once roamed the region, and was renowned for winning a legendary great (foot) race through Pureora forest. Let your senses be stimulated by the grandeur of the environment. Luxurious undergrowth posing numerous shades of green, and towering Totara, Rimu and other native trees some of them hundreds of years old invite an awe inspiring experience to your Timber Trail journey. Listen out for the bird song of native birds such as Tui, Kaka and Kokako. The Trail is constructed along sections of the historic bush tramway, which serviced the

salvage of native logs between the 1930’s through to the early 1970’s. Remnants of this by-gone era are still scattered throughout the forest. The Ongarue tunnel and spiral was a true engineering feat of its time, and has been reconstructed to depict the grit and determination of the logging crews of the day. The Timber Trail is constructed to a high standard, necessary to withstand the changeable and sometimes adverse weather conditions of this sub alpine/rain forest. A number of signs indicating distances and walking/cycling times, and trail markers signaling distances from Pureora make it easy for

independent cyclists/walkers to keep on track. Ideally, a minimum of 2 days is recommended to cycle the Timber Trail. Select from the packages available on the website and book your Timber Trail adventure through the convenient online booking system. Travel to Pureora Forest in the late afternoon, arriving at Pureora Village where you can choose from a range of overnight accommodation options. Rise the next morning refreshed and ready to embark on your Timber Trail

adventure. Allow 6 hours to enjoy the environment, and negotiate the narrow climb on the northern slope of Mount Pureora before descending the other side towards the half way mark at Piropiro, and end of day one. Currently, tenting packages are available where we manage the transfer of your overnight baggage to our campsite, pitch your tent(s), and set up the bedding for a comfortable night under the stars, Kiwi-style. Included is the delivery of the (preordered) food selected from our menu, for you to prepare and cook at

your leisure. All cooking equipment and utensils are supplied. Awake the next morning to the bird chorus, as you prepare yourself for the second day of easy cycling, venturing across some of the longest and highest suspension bridges in New Zealand! Take time to stop and read the many interpretation signs along the Trail, with snippets of information at points of historical, cultural and conservational interest. Upon arrival at the end of the trail in Ongarue Township, follow directions to where the Shuttle will be waiting to transport you back to your vehicle. Combining interaction with the environment, physical activity and cultural exchange the Timber Trail offers a unique experience for a wide range of visitors looking for an authentic and unforgettable slice of New Zealand. Contact us to book your ride or to get more information www.thetimbertrail.com Tel: +64 7 878 4997 Email: info@thetimbertrail.com 198 Barryville Road, Pureora Village, Waikato / Waitomo, North Island, NZ

Email: info@thetimbertrail.com • Telephone: 07 878 4997

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Book our two day cycling packages online or create your own experience from the various services we have available – bikes, cabins, camping, shuttles and more. Nestled in the Pureora Forest, between Lake Taupo and Te Kuiti, is the 85km Timber Trail one of New Zealand’s Great Cycle Rides. Experience a day on the trail or ride it over the recommended two days. Boasting some of the highest and longest suspension bridges in New Zealand you weave your way through ancient forests, across ancestral lands of local Maori Tribes and along part of the historic Ongarue Tramway. For more information or to book your Timber Trail experience, including accommodation options, shuttle & bag transfers and bike hire, visit

www.thetimbertrail.com 37

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Rotorua

A revisited series

WHERE THE SPIRIT OF THE EARTH SPEAKS by Gary Cody

Rotorua

If New Zealand’s soul could be unearthed anywhere, it would be in Rotorua. Situated in the heart of New Zealand’s unique geothermal utopia, Rotorua envelopes the senses like a balmy blanket. It had been seven years since my last visit and I wanted to see what was on offer.

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t’s warm, comfortably warm. The scent of sulphur and verdant native forest combine creating a distinctly fecund aroma that is all at once charming and energising, which is great as I have a full itinerary! As well as being one of New Zealand’s most amazing natural wonders, Rotorua is also one of its most adventurous and I’m rearing to delve into everything Rotorua has to offer. My arrival at one of Rotorua’s premier contemporary hotels, the Regent of Rotorua Boutique Hotel and Spa, finds me totally impressed. The modern and glamorous décor is complemented by quirky objet d’art pieces as well as classic and timeless furnishings that define luxe. It’s a place you are loath to rush out of. Indeed I feel as though I could simply lounge about at the Regent all week! But hey, duty calls and there’s mountains to bike, forests to circumnavigate and a whole ‘raft’ of adventures to be had. Leaving behind the glamour and bliss of my sanctuary at the Regent that evening I head to a sanctuary of another kind. The bus trip from downtown Rotorua to Tamaki Village, New Zealand’s most awarded cultural tourist attraction and the most authentically traditional representation of a Maori village in the country would have been worth it on its own. Our driver regaled us with tales of Maori traditions, the culture and why we were the best travel group he’d ever had – today. His singing, jokes and pertinent cultural advice and protocols were so much fun I was almost sad to get off the bus! Am I glad I did! Tamaki Village took any preconceptions of a Maori village I might have had and blew them into the spiritual ether. Touching, heart

stopping, warm, fascinating and utterly inspiring, after an entertaining bus ride,we were met by a full and rather intimidatingly exciting Powhiri and Haka challenge. Once the peace offering is accepted and you have become one of the Tangata Whenua, one of the people, you are free to wander, explore and be amazed at this world within an already astounding world. It is as if time has frozen, Captain Cook never made it to these shores and you are an alien arrived in pre-European New Zealand.

Carvers, weavers and healers work in and outside of their authentic Whare’s (houses) amid the forest, sharing their knowledge and their culture with all while the haunting lovely sound of Te Pu- oro Ma- ori, traditional Maori singing swirls through the forest like ghosts. Magic – truly magic. The next morning after a spiritually emotional cultural roller-coaster like Tamaki Village I feel it’s time for fun of more base nature. A bit of a getback-toreality fun.

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Nothing like an adrenaline-steeped raft ride to shake up a sentimental mood. The folk at Rotorua Rafting know how to give you a taste of sheer terror coupled with complete trust and rip-roaring, gut-clenching thrills. Fantastic, brilliant and the most condensed amount of fun I’ve had in a while. When we hit Tutea Falls, a seven-meter drop and the highest commercially raftable waterfall in the world, I think my heart just about stopped. This was life at its fullest. This was adrenaline plus! The Kaituna River weaves its way through native forest, emerald light from sun-dappled

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giant ferns turns the river a striking shade of jade much like the precious stone at the heart of Maori culture. Sam Sutton, Extreme Kayaking World Campion and pioneer of Rotorua Rafting, wanted to bring fun back to rafting, making it an extreme, safe adventure for all to share. His dream has been realised. Rotorua Rafting nurtures a love of life and the energy on every trip is euphoric. Literally on overload from emotion and adrenaline I felt now would be a great time to be indulged in some total relaxation. Rotorua’s Polynesian Spa was exactly what I needed after

such an action-fuelled, spiritually awakening day. Soaking in a lakeside mineral pool with views that could only inspire exultant relief, the adrenaline of the day seeped into the spring-fed waters. Two types of mineral waters feed into the Polynesian’s Spa’s pools, the effects on the body both invigorating and relaxing. Once suitably jelly-like I sank further into indulgence with a massage. An exemplary day could not have had a better ending as the acidity and minerals of the Priest Spring softened and caressed every tired, hyped-up muscle and the

perfectly executed massage tended to any recalcitrant aches left behind. An early night back at the glorious Regent topped an absolutely remarkable day and this trip to Rotorua was far from over. An early morning swing through the trees, mountain biking through Rotorua’s primordial forests and volcanic slopes and the Agrodome were just three of the tantalising adventures on my list of Rotorua ‘Must Do’s’. Untouched native forest, rare and precious birdlife and a stunning perspective on an ecologically diverse and magical part of the country awaited me at Rotorua Canopy Tours. Three hours of zipping and sliding twenty-two meters above the forest floor just fifteen minutes hilariously companionable bus trip from town, it was an absolute highlight! The Canopy Tours are a young attraction, opened in August 2012 but this ecotour was a guaranteed thrill. Wonder and beauty and an honest to goodness fantastic time with enough adrenaline from the heights, helpful, fun, friendly guides who were there to help and train with the equipment but also who knew so much about the incredible treescape we traversed – the whole experience was simply brilliant. If I had more time I longed to tick off a huge range of Multi-Day Adventures offerings. As it was I had to content myself with a mountain biking trail through Whakarewarewa/Redwood Forest. Straight off the zip-lines

regrine

The Editor and The Pe

and ropes I now had a completely different aspect of the stunning forest around Rotorua. Racing past boughs and ferns, heart racing along with you, picturesque with the surreality of movement, flashes

of verdant green and the potent scent of visceral foliage, Multi-Day Adventures know how to design a bespoke adventure tour suited to any appetite and can arrange everything from accommodation to cuisine

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to mountain biking, hiking, rafting, kayaking – you name it! My next escapade took me to a quintessentially Kiwi experience – The Agrodome. World-famous, the Agrodome Farm Show covers everything from the trotting out of nineteen breeds of sheep, shearing said sheep, dogs that might not be able to drive a car but can herd a flock of woolly bleaters through a labyrinth backwards and you can even try your hand at milking a cow. Which I did not. Although it did actually look fun. The most hands-on, down-on-the-farm, truly country New Zealand experience, the Agrodome has been delighting visitors from around the globe for many years and their experience shows. The education programmes are brilliant for children and adults alike and there is even a Farmyard Nursery brimming with the cutest furry and fluffy babies

you could ever hope to close to. What visit to Agrodome would be complete without a pair of sheepskin slippers? The Wollen Mill and the Dog and Whistle Shop are well stocked with the finest wool products and gifts to take away with you. At the mill, after watching the demonstration of processing and spinning I had to have something woollen and I had just the place to trot them out for their inaugural wearing! Wai Ora Lakeside Spa Resort on the shore of Lake Rotorua is a stunner of a luxury hotel offering extravagant accommodation, the finest of indigenous-inspired dining at Mokoia Restaurant and 2011 and 2012’s award winning lakeside spa with treatments such as a traditional Maori Massage, the Wai Ora White Volcanic Stone Massage and the Wai Ora Mud Wrap. Sign me up for the mud wrap!

Tamaki Maori Village

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Literally caked in Rotorua’s invigorating and globally renowned mineral mud I felt toxins and excess being drawn from my body. The Alite Mud Beuaty Products used at Wai Ora Spa is infused with the unique geothermal muds and water from Rotorua’s most active geothermal reserve, Hells Gate. Maunka oil, honey and New Zealand milk are

combined with the mud to gently soften and invigorate the skin. Detoxifying, purifying, absorbing all the evils of the world from your skin, I was left feeling reborn. And hungry. Desperately, deeply starving. I needed food, good food, healthy food. The kind of food that your body thanks you for. In Rotorua there is no better place to find exactly what the doctor ordered at Mokoia Restaurant at Wai Ora Lakeside Spa Resort. A procession of awards grace Mokoia’s wall and they are duly deserved. I opt for a truly unique dining experience and ‘share dine’ with other guests. Renowned chef Ervin Garde has created a cornucopia of Pacific-Rim fusion dishes utilising traditional indigenous herbs and spices and my taste buds were dancing with gastronomic ecstasy. Delicious and vivacious the food at Mokoia harmonised the

ambience to perfection. For my final day in Rotorua I planned a day of wildlife and nature appreciation and education. A natural wonder itself Rotorua houses an abundance of native birds and wildlife and none are so gallant, dramatic and wildly beautiful as the native New Zealand Falcon. Wingspan Birds of Prey is New Zealand’s National Bird of Prey Centre. Their mission – to resurrect the influence and reality of New Zealand birds of prey into our daily lives, securing their future through education and conservation. Here at the centre in Paradise Valley Rotorua you will get a close encounter of the most miraculous kind. Falcons, princes of the sky, dancers with the sun, inspire rapture as I watch them perform startling aerial feats. At the core of Wingspan is its commitment to the Karearea, New Zealand’s own endangered falcon. The Karearea is honestly the most beautiful bird I’ve ever seen and to experience this wild creature in its environment up close – spectacular! Breathtaking and extraordinary, these birds make you fall in love with them. Their grace and spirit is palpable, reaching into your soul and filling you with wonder. I was blown away by the majesty and elegance of these most gorgeous birds. Upon leaving I was

near tears of awe, hoping with all my heart that Wingspan achieves its goal and brings these remarkable birds back into our everyday lives. Another darling of New Zealand, the native and endangered flightless Kiwi, the bird we are all named for, is thriving in Rotorua. Rainbow Springs, situated somewhat fittingly on Fairy Springs Road, is a haven of wildlife from the Kiwi to Kea to the New Zealand’s own prehistoric dragon, the Tuatara. An amazing place, Rainbow Springs is devoted to the conservation of New Zealand’s native species, in particular the Kiwi and is one of the most successful breeding programmes in the country. A great experience all round, perfect for kids and grown-ups, my favourite part was the night visit where calls of the Kiwi and other native birds filled the night with eerily magic music. An honest-to-goodness mecca of wildlife and adventure, spirit and tranquillity, Rotorua is a destination that opens your mind, expands your horizons and treats you to some of the most fundamentally enriching experiences you will ever have. I loved every minute of my stay in Rotorua, right down to the sulphurific aroma, and can truthfully promise – I’ll be back.

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Coromandel

DISCOVERING CULINARY TREASURES ON THE HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL by Tara Kennon

Coromandel

When some people plan a cycle trip, they spend hours tinkering with their bicycle and studying maps. Me? I start dreaming about the food. Even before we reached New Zealand, I’d begun compiling mental lists of the farm-fresh lunches, decadent desserts and locally crafted beverages I hoped to sample on the Hauraki Rail Trail.

love indulging in local flavours when I travel and have a special place in my heart for small restaurants, cosy cafes and tucked-away taverns where the conversation and experience are as memorable as the food. But I also love holidays with plenty of activity and a good dose of nature, the ones that leave me more energized than when I started. With a long weekend on The Coromandel’s new rail trail, I set out to get some activity, check out this region’s renowned scenery and

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discover a culinary treasure or two along the way. The 82-kilometre trail winds through pastures and forest, around river bends, through a mountain tunnel and into historic towns that remain refreshingly unspoilt. It’s an easy, mostly flat ride with gently graded terrain. We started in Thames, home of the Hauraki Rail Trail headquarters where we hired bicycles. (The prevailing wind pattern means you’ll often have the wind at your back when starting here.) The town’s

Saturday market is full of temptation for food lovers, with abundant seasonal produce and treats like buttery macadamia brittle from local orchards. I bought a handmade German pretzel for later before tucking into a hearty breakfast at Cafe Melbourne, where traditional comfort fare was elevated by great flavours and beautiful presentation. Just around the corner, I found more temptation at Mustard Makers, a shop devoted to New Zealand artisan mustards. After picking up our bicycles, we

    found a reason to stop almost before we started: the Wharf Cafe at the edge of the Firth of Thames. It’s a delight at high tide, with waves lapping just meters from your table as sea birds soar and dive nearby. We set off full of coffee and ambition. But as we pedalled past picture-perfect barns and caramelhued horses, I found myself slowing down. This trail—and its culinary discoveries—are best enjoyed at a leisurely pace. We meandered through farmland to the Matatoki Cheese Barn, an organic operation crafting some of the best cheese in New Zealand. Goats, sheep and a baby alpaca frolicked in the paddock next to the barn. We shared the cheese platter (I especially loved the Gouda) and a generous slice of the Cheese Barn’s signature carrot cake. The trail carried us onward through bucolic fields to the

stunning Karangahake Gorge. Its rocky peaks and palm-covered hills tower over a river criss-crossed by bridges. Cycling across a bridge suspended in such a spectacular environment literally made my heart pound. I loved the entire trail but found myself in awe of this gorge, both for its natural beauty and its food. This is where we found two of the journey’s most memorable food experiences, the type of places I’d only hoped to stumble across in such a gorgeous and remote setting. Fortunately the structure of the trail naturally led us to travel through this area twice. Just around the bend from the gorge, we found the Bistro at The Falls Retreat, one of those rare places with an effortless rustic elegance that feels downright magical. Set in a clearing of trees, the indoor-outdoor space centres around a wood-fired oven where

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chef Brad King conjures flavourful pizzas and classic bistro fare with creative seasonal complements. Dessert doesn’t get much better than the molten cake we savoured (or more honestly, devoured) before wandering through the clearing under fairy lights to our accommodation at The Falls Retreat’s cottage. We got an early start the next morning with a tasty breakfast at

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Waikino Station, an architectural treasure and working station for the heritage train to nearby Waihi. Its delightful cafe serves hearty meals and home-baked goodies. You can also park your car and hire bicycles here. We soaked in more history on the scenic trail to Waihi, then honoured the journey’s leisurely pace by lingering over lunch in the lovely Ti

Tree Café’s native garden. A tip from a fellow cyclist motivated us onward to the berry tarts at Banana Pepper Cafe. The place’s retro ambiance made me smile and so did the scrumptious tart, an individual-size treat brimming with fruit. A light rain passed overhead as we made our way back to the gorge, past the relics of the Victory Battery and to the cosy Ohinemuri Winery. We chatted with our host Horst Hillerich over a glass of wine next to a massive stone fireplace that was hand crafted, it turned out, by the same German gentleman who sold me my pretzel at the Thames market. The lightly sweet roasted vegetable tart I tried for dinner was perfection. We slept soundly in our accommodation at the winery, a beautifully renovated former hayloft. (We’d pre-booked dinner and accommodation as the restaurant normally closes around 5 p.m.) We got off to another early start, fuelled by Horst’s indulgent French toast with grilled bananas. This time we took the branch of the trail that leads to Te Aroha (literally “the love”) for a soak in its natural soda springs and a stop for Devonshire tea at The Garden Depot. Time drifted by while we chatted with our host about how she began serving tea and scones to rail trailers. We caught the shuttle back to Thames, settling into our comfy seats with bicycles securely fastened to the rack. Back at our starting point, we decided to celebrate with a drink at Brew, a chilled-out cafe serving beer from the local Boilerhouse Brewing Company. Savouring my locally crafted brew, I realized I’d found the bliss of a holiday that’s both active and restful, a perfect balance of wellness and indulgence.

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Taupo

TANDEM IN TAUPO

Taupo

I knew that skydiving was somewhat of inevitability in New Zealand. How could I pass through this country of thriving adventure tourism, where people jumping off bridges and out of planes were ten a penny, without experiencing a little of it myself? But I’m not an adrenaline junkie, and I was trying to think about it as little as possible.

ut when the time came to pass through Taupo, New Zealand’s home of skydiving, I knew it was time to step up to the plate. We decided casually, sitting on the lakefront, just as the sun was dipping below the horizon, watching as parachutes drifted back down to earth. It looked so relaxing. We called and booked it with Taupo Tandem Skydiving, NZ’s original skydiving company, who have jumped over 200,000 tandems since 1992. The next morning it was a perfect day, despite my secret prayers for

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rain. A smiling guy picked us up from our hostel. He explained as we drove along the lakefront that he was a solo jumper, when he gets the chance. ‘As much as I can at the moment, with this weather,’ he said, flashing us a grin in the rear view mirror. The closer we got to the drop zone the more my nerves began to climb, and by the time we pulled up to the yellow hangar my knuckles on the seat were white. As we walked in the place was full of more smiling people, introducing themselves and joking about

standing on the scales being the worst part. They seemed to realise how terrified I was and plenty of compassionate smiles and lighthearted comments were directed my way. At that point I felt almost as though I was going to be sick, my heart thundering in my chest. We sat down with a few others who would be jumping too, mostly young backpackers, also looking scared and pale. A girl began to explain the process, the time in freefall from 12,000ft (40 seconds) and 15,000ft (60 seconds). Four screens flashed between video and photos, showing

people exiting the plane in that insane moment of freefall. Their faces were priceless. I opted for the 15,000ft Platinum package, reasoning to myself that it was not often that I hurled myself out of a plane. Once decisions were made we were shown through to the hangar, where I had the overwhelming sense of being in a college lounge. A foosball table sat in the far corner and low couches surrounded a magazine scattered table. Manifest boards on the wall beside neatly hung harnesses and jumpsuits showed that there was streamlined efficiency under the casual vibe. We sat down with slightly wobbly legs and hooked our phones up to the WiFi, writing the obligatory impressive Facebook statuses and emails to parents that seem to come with an imminent leap into the unknown. And all too soon, we were being handed red jumpsuits and being buckled into harnesses. A surprisingly young guy came to shake my hand. ‘I’m Rob, I’ll be your cameraman,’ he told me. My tandem master was Brad, and instantly upon meeting me he seemed to realise how nervous I was. ‘Don’t worry,’ he clapped a hand on

my shoulder, ‘this is my third jump, I think I’ve got it now.’ Only his broad grin told me he was joking. My knees almost gave way. Brad interviewed me on camera, asking for a few last words for friends and family. Then we began walking out to the plane, droning loudly beyond the hangar door. I was surprised to feel a small flicker of excitement begin to combat the butterflies. I was doing it! We clambered into the small plane and sat facing the back. The door

slid closed and the plane began to rumble louder as we taxied away. I watched through the windows as the tarmac slid by, trying to get to grips with the fact that there was only one way to exit this plane with my ego intact, and it was from 15,000ft above us, to fall through thin air. The moment the wheels left the ground I felt a brief frenzy of panic, but Brad put a reassuring hand on my shoulder and began a running commentary about the sights out of the window as we gained altitude.

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What felt like an alarmingly short time later the door was being slid open, revealing cold, empty air and Brad was moving us towards the exit. Then my legs were dangling into nothingness, the ground below so far away it was almost surreal. We hesitated for a fraction of a section before leaping out of the plane. I felt my stomach plummet for a split second as we fell, spinning around in disoriented confusion. Then I felt like I was flying. I screamed at the pure insanity of falling at 200 kilometres per hour, but my voice was snatched away. The views were incredible, the huge lake surrounded by green, snow-capped mountains in the distance. Rob flew in towards me, both hands pulled into thumbs up, shaking my hand and grinning up at me. Brad pulled us into a spin and the ground became a green blur below. We straightened up and Rob flew in again, then he was waving, so I waved back, surprised at the effort it took to control my limbs. Instantly we were being whipped backwards and in seconds we were sitting upright. Everything was silent, 50

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except for the quiet whistling of the breeze through the canopy above us. I let out a huge whoop of delight, overwhelmed. ‘Welcome to my office,’ said Brad. 5,000ft below us Taupo and its surrounding countryside stretched out, green and beautiful. ‘How’s your stomach?’ Brad asked. ‘Fine–‘ I didn’t even get to finish my sentence. He pulled us into a huge swooping turn and I felt my stomach plummet past my feet once more. We spent the five minutes back down to earth swirling and turning under the canopy, watching the ground come closer. Finally we slid onto the landing area, soft grass below us. I could have kissed it. Brad unclipped and gave me a hug. ‘Thanks for jumping with me!’ That evening when we sat by the lakefront, this time wearing our Taupo Tandem Skydiving T-shirts, we watched the parachutes spiral down to earth again. ‘What should we do tomorrow?’ I asked, knowing full well that nothing would ever beat what we had just done.

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Marlborough

MANY GREAT MEMORIES Sarah Shuttleworth experiences one of New Zealandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nicest getaways

Marlborough

The Bay of Many Coves Resort located in the Marlborough Sounds is a tranquil and unique spot for both a relaxing getaway or the outdoor adventurer. Unparalleled views of the Sounds, beautiful hikes through natural New Zealand bush, a relaxing and rejuvenating day spa, kayaking, fishing, swimming... this resort truly has it all. In addition to the five-star views and location, the cuisine and service both exceed expectation. Only a 40-minute boat ride or 15 minute floatplane or helicopter ride from Picton, the Bay of Many Coves is within easy reach, but has an air of total seclusion and peace. 52

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holiday typically starts after a drawn-out car or plane ride when you reach the final destination. However our journey from Picton into the heart of the Marlborough Sounds at the top of the South Island was half the fun. We decided to take the journey to the resort with Picton Floatplanes, as a floatplane is something neither my partner or I had been on before. It was quite the experience taking off from the sea and the flight itself was spectacular. Although the Cougarline Watertaxi service is convenient, making three daily trips into the Bay (we returned to Picton using this service), from the air you are truly able to take in the beauty of this unique part of New Zealand. The Marlborough Sounds make up 80% of New Zealand’s coastline, hard to believe until you see the hundreds of coves and inlets from the air. Miles of rolling green native trees line the hills and melt directly into the blue water of the Sounds. As the plane started to descend, a cluster of little cottages began to appear, and the pilot announced we had arrived at the resort. We landed on the sea directly in front of the resort, and a staff member was

waiting to pick us up on a small tender boat and take us to the jetty. We were greeted by the lovely managers Pip and Nick and of course the resort dog Merlot, to show us around and tell us a little about the resort. They smiled as we looked in awe at the beautiful resort nestled throughout the trees; we instantly wished we’d booked in for longer than two days. We wandered to our apartment, a quaint one bedroom beauty with an uninterrupted view of Arthur’s Bay and beyond. It was like our own piece of paradise, a feeling

of seclusion and aloneness, in the best possible way. As we had a rather late arrival, we opted to stay in and enjoy dinner and a wine on our private balcony. The room service was delivered promptly to our door, and although we were only dining off the ‘casual dinner’ menu, the food was outstanding. We chose a simple cheese board to share, which was beautifully presented with a great selection of New Zealand and international cheese. The Mt Difficulty pinot noir which was suggested as an accompaniment went down remarkably well and we

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soon had a deep and restful sleep. We set an early alarm, not wanting to miss out on any time in paradise, but were instead gently woken by the native bird calls right outside the window, inviting us out to play. The morning is absolutely the most beautiful time of day here, the water is like glass, reflecting the clear blue sky and further intensifying the rich colour of the sea. A kayak before breakfast was suggested by one of the lovely staff the day before, who greeted us down at the jetty and helped us on our way. Following the coast we saw baby shags nestling in amongst the rocks. Turning each corner revealed yet another tranquil cove, the odd home of locals and holiday makers dotted in the hills, hiding from civilisation. What a life they must live out here. Breakfast was served at the Kumatage Lounge; peaceful music and a freshly made juice and coffee greeting us on arrival. Merlot the dog entertained us over breakfast by swimming over and over to collect his stick some guests were throwing 54

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in the sea. After indulging in the best porridge I’ve ever tasted, we wandered down to the Bight Cafe, a part of the resort which is also open to the public. Local ‘boaties’ tie up to the wharf and come in for a morning coffee and newspaper, while the children are able to feed the resort’s pet fish off the jetty. While waiting for our charter boat to arrive we were able to take in the relaxed cafe atmosphere – it’s wonderful how a 5-star resort can

also cater so well to local residents. We had booked a boat cruise on the highly recommended ‘Lady Karen’, hearing from a friend that it was a highlight of their trip here. Equipped with a gourmet platter the chefs whipped up for our lunch and a bottle of our new favourite Nelson chardonnay, Neudorf, we were introduced to our skipper Gordon and set on our way. The boat is a classic beauty; built in 1957, she is incredibly well maintained and

doesn’t look a day over 20. We had the chance to fish for blue cod, partake in some skeet shooting off the boat, and even dredge for scallops, a new experience for us both. Gordie really makes the experience. He’s an ex-pilot and Picton local, cruising the Sounds almost daily so he knows the area extremely well. We were even able to take our scallops back to the resort with us, informed that the chef could cook them as part of our dinner that night – a lovely and personal touch. After freshening up, we headed to the Foredeck restaurant for dinner. The restaurant itself is expertly designed to highlight the beauty of the bay, floor to ceiling windows and a large balcony meant we were able to watch the sun slowly set over the hill during our dinner. Because the resort is so secluded, the view of the stars here is unparalleled. We were lucky enough to have clear evenings during our stay; making for a picture perfect dinner location. After dining casually our first night, we decided to splash out for our second and last evening. We chose a 7 course degustation menu – a must do during your stay here. Executive chef Hannes Bareiter uses top quality ingredients and innovative concepts to create magic on every plate. Each course was excellently matched with wine, featuring plenty of local Marlborough beauties. The first course, crab and crayfish tortellini, was spectacular from the first bite. However after a sip of Tattinger champagne the flavours began to dance in

my mouth. The highlight was undoubtedly being able to indulge in the scallops we had dredged that day. Throughout the night the restaurant staff were very attentive, describing each course and why the wine had been matched with it. The dessert, A Taste of Sauvignon Blanc, was the most unique and interesting dish. The chef had taken the main flavours of a Marlborough sauv and created different textures and dessert components: elderflower mousse, gooseberry sorbet, even candied red capsicum. Paired with the Giesen late harvest sauvignon

blanc and the moon reflecting on the sea, we felt as if we were in heaven. It turned out to be very difficult to leave so soon the next day, we were willing just one more night to explore the area a little more. Waving goodbye as the boat pulled away, we spotted Merlot the resort’s dog running down the hill to wish us farewell. The Bay of Many Coves resort is reason enough to make your next anniversary, birthday, or getaway an excuse to visit the Marlborough Sounds, and discover this untouched and tranquil part of New Zealand. www.gotravelnewzealand.com

Buller

THE DENNISTON MINE EXPERIENCE

Buller

On a recent trip away to find true relaxation in the real New Zealand we headed for the obvious choice for us kiwis - the West Coast. On heading into Westport I-site at the top of the West Coast we found out about The Denniston Plateau and decided to take in the entire heritage experience on our way to Karamea. We had a fantastic clear day, which we were advised was what we needed to see the views from the top of the incline.

fter a stunning drive up to the plateau, we were met by a friendly guide at the car park and were kitted out with a modern day version of what coal miners would have worn â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a hard hat equipped with head torch. There were about ten of us in our 56

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group for the tour as we set off to catch our train into the Banbury Mine. On the way we saw various interpretation panels telling us of the stories of the hardy people that once worked this land and lived on it. There is no doubt that life at Denniston was harsh. When they first arrived on the plateau

many who had come from the UK believing they were coming to the promised land for good conditions and prosperity, initially they lived in tents in all the elements you can experience at Denniston â&#x20AC;&#x201C; freezing temperatures, snow, wind and of course rain. The plateau in parts looks like a flat waste land with

almost no shelter. Those coming to live at Denniston in the 1800’s often travelled up the Incline (known to many In NZ as the 8th wonder of the world) in the coal or Q wagons - even women and children. When you visit Denniston and witness the extremely steep angle of the incline you can imagine how terrifying this must have been. Later the steep Bridle Track Walkway was developed which you can still walk today, however it is not something you would want to do as the daily commute to work. For many, once they were ‘up on Denniston’ they never came down again, living out their days up there. Eventually in 1901 to 1902 there was a rough road put in, transporting people and supplies away to and from Denniston. The Westport Coal Company seemed to have been very much in control of everything at Denniston but the introduction of this new road seemed to ease this slightly. We can confirm the views on a clear day from the top of the Denniston Incline are nothing short of breath taking with a feeling of being on top of the world (600m above sea level). The vista takes in the coast line, the sea, the Buller River, coastal inlets, the main town of Westport and all the townships around it – magnificent! After enjoying the outside surroundings and the mining relics dotted around the incline we headed

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Westport is a town built on coal extraction from wild and remote places like Denniston, Shockton and Millerton where daily life was a struggle and comfort a luxury. The various displays focus on formation of coal, maritime history, unionism, the communities, transport and men underground. We are a colourful and modern museum that brings the past to life, and links the past to the present.

123 Palmerston Street, Westport Ph: 03 789 6658 www.coaltown.co.nz

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in to board the train and were given our ‘jobs’ for the day. We were all given a job title – I was the Hewer and my husband the Knocker we were told some often had two jobs. Others in the group had titles such as Shot Firer, Trucker and Clipper. We then received our pay cards telling how much you would’ve earned in your role – there were certainly vast differences in pay rates. I earned 3 pence per ton hewed whereas the Knocker earned 1 Shilling per day. We did have to have it explained to us in order for us to compare to today’s currency. In those days it was 12 pence to the shilling and 12 shillings to the pound.

We all had to clock in with our tags and the Underviewer took charge and got us aboard the train. We then ventured into the Banbury Mine. As we journeyed into the darkness our guide’s voice came over the speaker telling us about what we were seeing. Tunnels shot off in every direction as they explained the techniques used including the robbing out of the mine. We tried our hand at shot firing, saw and held old mining relics used by real miners at Denniston took in a 3D movie at the ‘crib room’ (tea break room) and shovelled some real coal for ourselves. Our entire group agreed loading up the trucks,

clipping them together and pushing them was hard work! We learned about the work hard – play heard mentality of the men, the huge danger and risk facing them and the things they all endured up there. With some of the men working in the mines being mere boys as young as 14 years old. There was a poem that certainly remained with me about what life at Denniston had been like: Damn Denniston Damn the track Damn the way both there and back Damn the wind and damn the weather God damn Denniston altogether. There was however a happier side to Denniston and the surrounding mining townships – with communities that looked out for each other, played rugby, swam, attended church and much more. The population at Denniston at its peak was 1400 people – which is very hard to believe visiting there today. Many people from around the world and NZ come to visit the place their ancestors once called home. I later picked up the books written about the area and the stories of the people who lived there – Jenny Patrick’s Heart of Coal and The Denniston Rose – fascinating, dark and surprising - great reads! The Denniston Mine Experience is definitely worth a visit when on

the West Coast it is largely this very heritage that New Zealand is founded upon which is not long forgotten but extremely well preserved at Denniston and in the

Coaltown Museum of Westport. It is an important part of the economy on the West Coast making the people and community what they are today.

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West Coast

ANOTHER GREAT REASON TO GO WEST YOUNG MAN! by Chris Birt

West Coast

Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve always subscribed to the view that if you need to find an excuse to visit a particular region in the scenic wonderland that is New Zealand, you probably need to look at an entirely different destination.

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hat’s not a scenario I’ve ever had to contemplate when considering the West Coast of the Southern Alps of the islands the early Maori explorers intuitively named Aotearoa - The Land of the Long White Cloud. The diverse range of activities available as one travels down this long thing ribbon and lush green and turquois blue - or up it if travelling from south to north - makes the West Coast a place I naturally gravitate to. And I know I’m not alone in that, as evidence by the procession of camper vans, rental cars and small coaches that I pass on my trip through the Buller Gorge in the north and down to the Gates of Haast. Of course we’re not talking about traffic as it is seen in Tokyo, in Beijing or even in Queen Street, Auckland. There’s a distinct lack of hustle and bustle on The Coast, as the locals affectionately refer to their region. But it’s fair to conclude a new awareness of this rugged coastal area is fast developing, assisted in no small way by Lonely Planet naming it the top region in New Zealand to visit in 2014. That’s high praise indeed from a guide book deemed by many as the travellers’ bible. On this late summer trip to what is one of my most favoured haunts in a country where there is a spectacular view at almost every turn, I’m a man on a mission! The incentive for this visit - I steadfastly refuse to call it an excuse - has been dropped into my lap by an event I’ve been awaiting with anticipation, namely the official opening of the first stage of the new West Coast Wilderness Trail. By mid-winter 2014, this new cycle

trail will stretch from the Grey River to Ross, 135 kilometres to the south. But on this visit, I’m content to tackle the newly-opened first stage, from Greymouth to Hokitika. And I don’t even mind being labelled as one of the new generation of ‘tourists on bikes’ now being lured here from overseas.

With peak fitness just a fond memory, these days I lean toward a philosophy of soft adventure by day and good levels of comfort at night. This regime requires numerous cups of English Breakfast tea to keep my fluid levels up of course! As an afternoon ride, or one undertaken to shake free the effects

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of a visit to any one of The Coast’s historic water holes, the thirty kilometre stretch of New Zealand’s newest Great Ride is just what the doctor ordered. About a third of this leisurely ride takes me along the coastline, just a quick pedal away from the pounding surf that signals the arrival of the Tasman Sea from the parched land mass that is called Australia. Then there’s a turn inland, en route to the historic gold mining township of Kumara. This is not a ride that ought to be rushed, and having not had my posterior on a bicycle seat for a quite some time, I’m readily prepared to follow my own advice. I find that the last few turns of the pedals have actually come far too soon, but I am thankful that I’ve encountered no steep climbs along this section of this very scenic new cycling trail. Having ‘knocked the bastard

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off’, to borrow a quote from our mountaineering great, the late Sir Edmund Hillary, it’s time to continue my journey down the Coast. More adventures beckon, some of them also involving the two wheels on the bike I hired in Greymouth, but mostly two feet. Namely, my own! Throughout I am constantly reminding myself to slow down, to break free of the mould too often imposed upon me by a high-tech, pressure-cooker life amid the concrete jungles in which we live. The one thing I’ve learned from the Coasters - this diverse, interesting, entertaining and always welcoming collective of individuals who have been born and raised here, or have come for a week and never left - is that life is meant for living. As they say in these parts, living life at break-neck speed is for city folks. The advice I was given on planning my first visit to the West Coast some

two decades ago was not to race from one end of this stunning region to the other in a day or two. There’s so much history and heritage, so many wild and wonderful places and so many interesting and entertaining people that anyone who just drives through on their way to somewhere else really is not doing themselves any favours. Ambling along the coast road there’s no blasting of car horns as you always get in the cities if you are dawdling - it’s difficult not to keep stopping. Stunning vistas appear out of nowhere along this narrow, ribbon of asphalt as its winds its way through lush rainforest, across wild and scenic rivers and alongside sweeping bays. The twin glaciers of Franz Josef and Fox are highlights of any visit to the West Coast and I never tire of visiting them. On this late summer journey, it seems dozens of others - many have travelled from the far flung corners of the world - share this view. A walk on glaciers which have been creeping slowly down valleys

for millions of years has to be experienced to be believed and of all New Zealand’s alpine regions, the West Coast has two of the most spectacular on offer anywhere in the world. But there’s one more delight to be had before this particular journey comes to an end and it’s one for which the West Coast is famed. There’s a wealth of stories - some true and many not - that flow out of fishing for the hordes of translucent little creatures that come from the Tasman Sea and into the West Coast’s rivers to breed. Then there’s the consumption thereof. On the banks of the Haast River any further south and you are in an entirely different region - stands a must-see attraction. The Curly Tree Whitebait base should not be missed, take my word for it. The fritters, or patties as some call them, cooked right in front of my eyes soon have saliva dripping from my lips. Then there’s the taste! But that’s another story…

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Kaikoura

CAPTIVATING KAIKOURA by Patrick Smith

Kaikoura

Sitting over a bowl of green-lipped mussels and a pint of beer outside the Pier Hotel, I was taking in the view – the early evening sun scattering stars across the bay and lighting up the snow-capped Seaward Kaikoura Mountains – when my thoughts were interrupted by a young German tourist sitting nearby.

have seen mountains and I have seen the sea,” he told me, “but I have never seen the mountains going right down to the sea.” Kaikoura’s mountains-and-sea setting is unique in my experience: it’s part of what makes Kaikoura special – both in the scenic sense and for what these twin features offer to the visitor experience as a whole. For example, I spent three wonderful days on a guided alpine

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hike in those mountains with Kaikoura Wilderness Walks, which has a lodge in a remote valley 1,000 metres above sea level. I’ve also walked the Kaikoura Coast Track further south, another stunning three-day experience that includes a hike by the sea along a pristine black-sand beach. Speaking of the sea, the waters off Kaikoura offer all kinds of possibilities for adventure. Earlier that day I’d tasted one the area’s

original attractions: whale watching. Out on the blue Whale Watch boat we’d seen three of the giant sperm whales that can be spotted here year-round, drawn to the 3km-deep Kaikoura Canyon and its rich food supplies. It’s exciting stuff, witnessing these 60-tonne monsters rising from the deep or hauling their mighty tails high into the air as they prepare to dive. Along the way a pod of dusky dolphins had ridden our bow wave

The Whaleway Station, Kaikoura, Email: res@whalewatch.co.nz, book your tour online at www.whalewatch.co.nz FREEPHONE 0800 WHALES (0800 655 121)

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and we’d spotted a couple of albatross; we were told they like to feast on chunks of squid brought to the surface by the whales. You can get up close and personal with various species of albatross and other seabirds, or watch and swim with dusky dolphins, with Encounter Kaikoura, a well-run outfit that has its HQ and a very good café just south of the town centre on The Esplanade. New Zealand fur seals make their home all along this coast and I’d encountered some that afternoon during a trip along the Kaikoura Peninsula – they’re easy to spot from the carpark and the pups can get quite inquisitive. I’ve also watched pups cavorting in a bush pool at Ohau Point, about 10km north of Kaikoura, which seems to be a sort of seal daycare centre while mum and dad are off fishing at sea. Seals can be quite dangerous on land, especially during the breeding season, but in the water their funloving personalities return and they’ll happily play with wet-suited humans, as I’d discovered on a Seal Swim Kaikoura outing earlier in the year. The company supplies everything including snorkelling gear and cosy 5mm wetsuits. A magical experience. Kaikoura’s celebrated marine life is

Glencree Lodge

a good reason to visit this small South Island town, but its seafood is equally renowned. My bowl of mussels aside, you can feast on wonderful crayfish, scallops and various sorts of fish (my favourite: blue cod, several of which we caught on private fishing expedition out of South Bay). Catch your own, sit down at an outside café table or, as many people like to do, grab some fish and chips and head for the beach. The ocean’s bounty is celebrated at an annual knees-up

www.huntingnewzealand.co.nz

mwilks@xtra.co.nz

(October 4 this year) called Kaikoura Seafest that’s been running since 1995. Accommodation options in and around the town have grown a lot in recent years and now range from campgrounds and hostels to luxury B&Bs, boutique hotels and lodges. Nicely positioned between Christchurch and Picton (drive or catch the scenic Coastal Pacific train), it’s worth spending a few days taking in the best of this remarkable place.

Tel +643 319 5189

Fax +643 319 5145

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6/03/14 10:37 PM

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Hurunui

A MAGICAL ALPINE ESCAPE

Hurunui

It’s late on a Friday afternoon when I jump into my car to head to Hanmer Springs and to be honest, I’m grumpy. The trip’s a last minute request from my editor and I’m tired, rundown and exhausted.

uckily, the 90-minute drive from Christchurch is easy and the scenery is surreal. Hectares of Waipara grapevines stand to attention and there are large alienlike limestone outcrops. I’m soon out of my funk (much to the relief of my friend Shannon who threatened to hitchhike home unless my behaviour improved). Enormous trees greet us on Hanmer Springs’ Amuri Avenue and

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as I look at the flawless blue sky they’re pointing at, I know this will be an incredible weekend. On the left, the world famous thermal pools and spa beckon and further along I spot the village green and the town’s main street. Out of the car, the alpine air hits us as we go for a stroll. This place has a cool, laidback sophistication. It feels good just being here. Everyone’s relaxed,

chilled and happy – even the birds seem abnormally friendly. We check into our home for the weekend – the 5-star Village Lake apartments (spacious and stunning) – discard the travelling clothes and head out again. First stop, the i-Site information centre next to the pools. The offering is amazing…bungy jumping, quad and mountain biking, rafting, fishing and treks galore. I wish (for about 30 seconds) I’d brought my kids – they’d love the farm park, the mazes, the mini-golf and the village cruisers bikes. Instead I consider shooting Shannon – paintball, of course. But it is the jet boating and claybird shooting that finally appeal and bookings are made. For a village, Hanmer Springs has a surprising number of eateries - from high-end restaurants to casual dining and takeaway joints. We relax over a Moroccan Chicken Pizza at Saints Café and wash it down with Black Estate Sauvignon Blanc made just down the road in Waipara. Afterwards, dusk is settling in and we head to the thermal pools for a pre-bedtime bathe. Steam rises from

the surface of the water and there’s an electrifying ambience. Arms stretched out and heads resting on the rocks behind us we look at the amazing star lit sky above. “Wow,” says Shannon. “Ah ha,” I reply. And that’s it. There are no other

words necessary. I marvel at how this incredible, mineral-rich water has made its way from the belly of the earth as we lose ourselves in our own thoughts. We sleep like logs and wake early. I plan on relaxing in my white fluffy robe but, no, Shannon throws me

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my sneakers and we’re out the door. Half an hour later we’re standing at the top of Conical Hill. Our breath steams in the crisp air as we look out at the village and fields spread out below. It feels great. After brunch (Oatmeal and Lemon Pancakes from the Powerhouse Café), we’re off claybird-shooting. Two city girls, a high-powered shot gun and no firearms experience – what could go wrong? Truth be told, nothing under the watchful eye of our guide. I urge Shannon not to cry when she loses our shootout. She calmly takes the shotgun and obliterates her first ‘bird’. My turn. I flex my muscles, take the gun, pull the trigger and…nearly cry…the recoil on the gun is painful on this princess’ shoulder. But the power? Amazing. The final score: Shannon 5, Me – nearly 1 and my humiliation, priceless. It’s time for some indulgence. The Spa at Hanmer Springs (next to the pools) is award winning and world class. We’re booked in for a traditional hot stone massage. I have to admit, I’m a bit nervous. But the smile that greets me when I walk in the door puts all of those fears at

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ease. We’re guided to the changing rooms, given sumptuous robes and slippers and await our therapists in the relaxation room. The next 80 minutes are heavenly…smooth, oil-soaked stones are trailed around our bodies and the experience is amazing. This is the Rolls Royce of massage treatments and what’s lovely is that we’re not rushed out the door afterwards. Instead we’re guided back to the relaxation room where there’s a selection of waters, herbal teas and magazines to enjoy while we slowly return to reality. Shopping in Hanmer Springs is an enjoyable treat. With shops like ‘Up the Garden Path’ and ‘Wink’ we drift along quietly enjoying the unique things on offer. Dinner that night is a luxurious affair at Chantellinis – a fine dining restaurant. From the Paddle Crab Flan to the Crème Brulee everything is sublime. Afterwards, we head to one of the local bars for a quiet drink and a giggle. Day two begins with a woodland walk before we find ourselves back at Thrillseekers for our jetboat ride. The half hour trip is awesome – aquamarine waters and sheer cliffs

whizz past us, the adrenalin pumps and we cackle like crazed hyenas. The rush lasts for hours – incredible value for money. Back at the pools, wrist straps are slapped on for the Superbowl and hydroslide rides. We spend an hour racing kids up the stairs and rushing down the slides. There’s a lot of hype about the Superbowl (it’s the only one in New Zealand) and it is great but I find the pitched black hydroslide is my favourite. A quick lunch at the Garden House Café means we don’t have to leave the pools and we get to sample their famous burgers. We eat outside in our towels before heading back for a quiet soak in the thermal pools. The aquatherapy pools are divine – pummeling away the last of our aches and pains. The time ticks on and soon we have to hit the road. A final coffee and we’re back in the car. As I farewell Conical Hill in my rearview mirror, I know one thing. I am refreshed and renewed and next time I’m tired, rundown and exhausted…I won’t be grumpy about being sent to Hanmer Springs, I’ll be heading there myself. You should too.

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Tekapo/Mt Cook

EARTH, SKY AND SNOW by Christine Negus

Tekapo /Mt Cook

Take time to discover Tekapo, 710 m above sea level, a small village at the end of turquoise- blue lake in a large mountain basin on the edge of a world heritage area.

owhere else on our planet is there the same combination of a rain shadow in a high rainfall area, in a highly glaciated landscape right on a plate boundary. That combination of geological and climatic influences over a very short span of distance is the reason there are so many activities in and around Lake Tekapo. I have been coming here since 72

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I was a student, heading into new territory to waitress at The Hermitage Mount Cook, then a government-owned hotel. Over the years Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve stayed at the camping ground when learning to water ski, picnicked under the lakeside pine trees to break the drive from Christchurch to Queenstown, and as a journalist, told many a story about the mythical Mackenzie, and later still, as a community representative I watched the rabbit plague peak until

the introduction of rabbit calicivirus disease in the 1990s. Truth is, Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m still a little in love with this land. I have seen Tekapo in its many moods, from the white silence of winter queen majesty and the incredible fragility of a hoar frost to summer heat in the 30s, when cones pop open and the air is scented with pine resin. But this trip was one of sheer relaxation and indulgence, a reminder that the best things can be close to home, and to rediscover that

sense of awe crossing Burkes Pass into the million hectare expanse of the hummocky, tawny and tussocky Mackenzie Basin. It’s always interesting to stop at little Burkes Pass cemetery, a tree lined paddock of memories that cherishes the names of local people, the many Scots who lived in the area, and mountaineers who perished. There is Gary Ball, the New Zealand climber who (with Rob Hall) pioneered guided ascents of the world’s highest peaks but died of mountain sickness, aged 40, at 6500m on Dhaulagiri in the Himalayas. Rob Hall lowered his body into a crevasse forever but his headstone is at Burkes Pass, a glimpse of the powerful pull this area has for elite climbers. Tekapo village itself is still a work in progress, with plans to do more around the lake front, but those plans have been mooted for decades, and it remains a functional small ribbon development. You get the sense that it’s trying hard and it does get 2180 sunshine hours a year, and only 60 cm of rain. In the mountains beyond the lake is an area of great upthrust, steeply plunging folds of rock, dozens of glaciers, small hanging lakes, huge snow fields and steep icefalls, a glacial lake studded with icebergs, scree slopes, alluvial fans, braided rivers, and 23 peaks above 3000m. The best way to see it all is from the comfort of a small aircraft. The 200 km Grand Traverse of the Southern Alps, operated by Air Safaris, takes just one hour and is simply one the most visually beautiful experiences of a lifetime.

We took off into a light easterly wind from the country’s highest registered aerodrome in a Cessna 208 Grand Caravan, past Mt John, an ice-eroded greywacke nob, then over sheep stations, and up to where the Godley River’s braided streams carry melt water down from Godley Glacier. We fly into the heart of Aoraki Mount Cook and Westland Tai Poutini World Heritage National Park where 50m of snow falls a year, forcing its way down into ice to create dozens of glaciers. The longest, at 29 km, is Tasman Glacier. The steepest is Franz Josef – it descends from the main divide to 300m above sea level in just 12 km, and ends 19 km from the Tasman Sea. You see all this from your window seat, while the pilot’s commentary quietly adds layers of information to what is below in a raw landscape with tiers of jagged ridges, a world of gods wearing cloaks of swirling clouds and elephant skin on giant icefalls. My fellow passengers are simply spellbound and in awe at the proximity and sheer scale of this snowy silent world. They can only repeat the inadequate words – wow, awesome, stunning, unforgettable. We fly around Aoraki Mount Cook, 3754m, seemingly so close but in reality 1.5 km away, with its long distinctive three-peaked ridge. It is rich in Ngai Tahu legend. Aoraki is the sacred mountain, an early ancestor turned to stone, near his brothers Rakiro (Mt Dampier), Rakirua (Teichelmann) and Rarakiro (Tasman). When we land perhaps few of the passengers realize the man with the kind face who gently helps people disembark, and who takes their

LAKE TEKAPO. WINDOW TO THE UNIVERSE

HOME OF AORAKI MACKENZIE’S INTERNATIONAL DARK SKY RESERVE MT JOHN OBSERVATORY

CAFÉ AND DAY TOURS Drive or hike to the summit of Mt John. Enjoy your coffee with spectacular views at the Astro Cafe. Imagine viewing day-time stars, then visiting NZ’s largest telescope!

MT JOHN TWILIGHT AND NIGHT TOURS Join us for our famous Observatory Tour. We provide transport, equipment and guidance. Navigate your way around the Southern Sky using powerful lasers, while telescopes unlock familiar planets through to rich star clusters.

BOOKING IS ADVISED For more details call 03 680 6960 or email: info@earthandsky co.nz

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photographs, is Richard Rayward, co-founder of Alpine Safaris. We worked together when he was a freelance television cameraman, and his schoolboy son Tim was often the sound man, a poppet kneeling on the ground, holding up the large woolly microphone. Today Tim is one of the pilots; he arrives in a helicopter with his son Isaac. “There are just so many reasons for people to stop over longer at Tekapo now,” Richard said. “People are discovering we are not a small version of a Queenstown, that we have kept our own charm, and as well as the stunning natural surroundings people can kayak, horse trek, fish, ski, skate. We’ve seen an enormous growth in the popularity of walking and cycling in the area.” Tekapo is also the closest most of us will ever get to Saturn – clearly seen across 1.6 billion km as an embryonic-perfect dark red planet with its seven flat rings through a telescope at University of Canterbury’s Mt John research observatory. It is the most accessible observatory in the world, 300 metres above the village. Earth and Sky Tours offer several tours which use several telescopes, to reveal star nurseries, dying galaxies, planets, stars and other elements of space. Stargazing is attracting a new group of visitors. The guides, graduates in astrophysics and biochemistry and armed with strong

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laser pointers, share youth with an academic passion for stars, a geeky enthusiasm that makes effortless a succession of facts about 100 billion galaxies. Tekapo Springs is the creation of Karl Burtscher, a local man, who in late 2005 took up the challenge of turning an ice rink into a resort with skating rinks, tube rides, hot pools and a day spa. He climbed up onto a digger and knocked up 3000 hours shifting rocks and soil to create his vision. “I love hot pools and I thought they would be unique here if we positioned them to look out over the lake. Tekapo really needed a year-round activity – and I haven’t finished yet.” Karl is proud of heat transfer system in use to use the pools. He installed New Zealand’s first summer tube ride for the 2011-12 summer, and last winter he installed a Magic Carpet conveyor lift on the snow park. In the Day Spa Nicole gave me the blissful experience of a paraffin pedicure. “We get a lot of international visitors booking online for the couples retreat and other treatments, because they want to spoil themselves a bit more on holiday. We’re also getting more hen parties and generally people seem to be making at least one spa treatment part of their holiday experience.” Peppers Bluewater Resort opened in 2008 and quickly enhanced local tourism by providing quality

and quirky accommodation on the golden route between Christchurch and Queenstown. General Manager Alistair Munro claims double digit growth and an increase in the average stay. “It looks a bit like an old barn and has a feeling of rustic remoteness with the tussocks and pond,” Alistair said. “It already feels part of the landscape. The cedar will silver with age to reflect the Two Thumb Range, and we’ve got splashes of turquoise throughout.” There isn’t really a destination restaurant in Tekapo but Kohan Japanese Restaurant comes close, with many customers wanting its Salmon Sashimi. In the 1990s Sockeye salmon farming was pioneered, largely through trial and error, using cages in fast flowing hydro canals. Mt Cook Salmon is now an exporting success and world leader in cage farming technology, with a modest canal side shop. The Church of the Good Shepherd, built in 1935, has a sturdy profile in perfect proportion to its setting on a small peninsula. A bronze memorial to the hardworking collie dogs is a short walk away, amongst the matagouri, part of the myth that hardy men and loyal dogs developed the Mackenzie country. Book at least two nights so you can allow this little village to cast her spell so that you will return to see her in another season.

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Dunedin

THREE DELIGHTFUL DUNEDIN DAYS

Dunedin

Having researched my stay in Dunedin with the aid of blogs, apps, Facebook pages, websites, and downloadable maps, I generously gave myself the three days to enjoy the delights of the city and it’s much lauded surrounds. I am used to executing my holidays with military precision, (Virgo’s have trouble with merely wandering around searching for serendipitous travel experiences) and by giving myself three days, I felt that all of my curiosity around this intriguing city, that promised heritage, rare and beautiful wildlife, chocolate, butterflies, beaches and architecture, would be sated once the my three day march around the city was completed.

hat I didn’t build into my itinerary, was that I would be charmed completely by the hidden gems in this delightfully traveller friendly and event-rich city. Thoughtful planning makes this a truly easy city and region for travellers 76

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to navigate themselves around, and this really, delightfully, messed with my plans. Day one kicked off, on time and at the tip of the stunning Otago Peninsula. I had heard that Sir David Bellamy describes the Dunedin Peninsula as ‘The finest

example of eco-tourism’ in the world’, but I was unprepared for the sheer beauty of the drive to my starting point. The road winds gently through a collection of picturesque small bays; MacAndrew Bay, Broad Bay, exotic sounding Portobello, and it was all I could do to not stop as each

had at least one shop, gallery or café that I to explore, so I noted them and would visit on the planned drive back into town. I had to resist the temptation to hire a Green Bike from Glenfalloch Gardens; these electric pedal bikes make for an easy ride around this picturesque area. I had an itinerary to stick to. On the tour at the Royal Albatross Colony at Taiaroa Head, the only mainland colony of albatross in the world, the wingspan of this

majestic bird took my breath away as they cruised overhead. I wished I could have stayed longer and visited the disappearing gun at the Historic Fort Taiaroa, which recently won a prestigious international heritage award from the Institution of Mechanical Engineers in the United Kingdom. Each night you can take a tour to watch the world’s smallest penguins, the little blue penguins, march their way up the beach, just below the Royal Albatross Centre.

Not wanting get out of sync, I carried onto take a wildlife tour with Nature’s Wonders on an adventure jaunt like no other. You are guided through private farmland, by passionate and knowledgeable staff in an argo all-terrain vehicle, to the hideaway places of seals, sea lions, and penguins and many types of rare sea-birds, all in their own, untouched and natural environment. Penguin Place was my next stop, and as I was guided through the native bush via thoughtfully placed tunnels and walkways, to see the Yellow-eyed penguin in their natural habitat, without disturbing them. It was magic to look through an opening in the small shelter and be eye-ball to eye-ball with one of the world’s rarest penguins. Now mid-afternoon, I arrived at the majestic Larnach Castle, the only castle in New Zealand, its views across the Otago Harbour and Dunedin simply stunned me and the surrounding gardens are remarkable and have earned the title as a Garden of National Significance .The Castle is steeped in romance and intrigue, with sumptuous interiors and a tragic and fascinating history to match. Each

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year a mid-Winter Ball is held in the ballroom; where else could you dress up and dance the night away in such elegant surroundings? Another note to include this for my return trip to Dunedin, as it now looks like this is going to happen. After chatting to the lovely Larnach staff at their delightful restaurant, I decide to deviate from my plan, and drive back on what they call the ‘High Road’, a delightful stretch of road that allows you to view either side of the stunning peninsula. The height gives you a perspective of this striking area, like no other, and is ideal for the most picturesque of photographs to be taken. Off the High Road, I found a real hidden treasure, Sandfly Bay that had vast white sand dunes, like a desert and pretty blond seals and sea lions dotting the beaches. Ambling along the beach, chatting with other tourists, I realised I wasn’t going to be making

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those cafés, galleries or shops today in the Bay’s that I passed this morning, so I took my time and recharged my batteries for the next day of my holiday. The city day I had planned on day two, started with the aroma of chocolate at Cadbury World with a tour of the factory that makes some of New Zealand’s favourite treats. We sampled the chocolaty fare and watched the team at Cadbury’s work their magic, pumping out boxes of goodies at a great rate of knots! I lost myself in the gift shop on the way out, the selection of iconic Cadbury treats was overwhelming, in a fabulous way. Discovery World at the Otago Museum promised a real rainforest experience, teeming with tropical life. Wandering through the very stylish foyer, with displays showing the current and permanent exhibitions, I realised again that just seeing what I had planned, was not going to be enough and that perhaps I might need to sit awhile at the fabulous Museum Cafe and plan my time to include the Southern Land, Southern People exhibit, so I could understand more about this incredible region that I was fast falling in love with. Walking into the Tropical Forest was a true surprise, with hundreds of live jewel coloured butterflies, geckos, turtles, in the most exotic, lushly planted surroundings. I even snuck up to the Animal Attic, in the oldest part of the

museum to check out the Victorian themed displays from yester-year. Grand heritage buildings surrounded me during my walk to my next stop, the prestigious Dunedin Public Art Gallery in the hub city centre, the Octagon. I spotted a guided walking tour of the cities heritage buildings, and promptly booked myself in on the next tour. What a treat, City Walks toured through the cities charming historic and architectural precincts explaining their colourful past and included a tour of the stunning Toitu Otago Settlers Museum. The rest of the day was a blur of art galleries, refuelling at cafes and window shopping. That was the plan for tomorrow, shopping. I had booked myself in at a Super 15 Rugby game at the impressive Forsyth Barr stadium, which I knew had received accolades from the international sporting fraternity, and after my visit to the stadium as part of a noisy, happy crowd, I completely understand why. Striking design, brilliant facilities it is such fabulous addition to the city. Day three was to be spent shopping as I had read that within a easy walking distance, Dunedin boasts a vast selection of designer boutiques, artisan jewellery workshops, trusty department stores and High Street stores for the essentials of modern day

life. George Street hosts many of these stores, but a little exploring will reward you with other hidden delights. Delightful design stores, antique, furniture, china and book shops are scattered throughout the city with a concentration of them in Princes Street. Halfway through the day the realisation hit me, I needed more time in this fabulous city. I wanted to experience more of the beautiful historic gardens, try the local delicacies at the Otago Farmers Market held every Saturday at Dunedin’s historic Railway Station, (did you know it’s the most

photographed building in New Zealand?). I really wanted to visit historic Port Chalmers, and explore the seaside village of St Clair, with its surfing and cafe community. If I had have realised the true nature of Dunedin, I would have travelled with serendipity on my shoulder, as I now know that Dunedin will take you somewhere you hadn’t planned to go, down side-streets lined with cafes, over the next hill to another beautiful beach, around the next corner to the next gallery and throw charming opportunities to experience the whole city, in your path.

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Wanaka

Lake Wanaka – The World’s first year-round Lifestyle Reserve – for good reason!

Lake Wanaka

I needed space. I craved freedom, inspiration and a bit of good old-fashioned bliss. Only one place exists I know of that fills all these requirements. It is a place where you can do what you love among like-minded people. Where the welcome is warm and the locals are genuine and people understand you because they want the same things. The lack of crowds, the time to breathe, feel carefree and full of life all among some of the world’s most spectacular, breathtaking scenery…

f God had a holiday home, it would be here. Coinciding my need for a break and my passion for things that make me go vroom, I decided to go in autumn. Harvest season. I love autumn in Lake Wanaka! The light is golden. People

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have an excited energy about them – it could be the festival atmosphere as town and country folk gather to celebrate at the annual A&P Show. But for me, it was the hype and excitement leading up to Warbirds over Wanaka. Among thousands of my aviation-mad peers, I would bear

witness to gut-searing barrel rolls, breath-stealing fly-bys and heartgripping freefalls. Fly my pretties, fly! Of course, the calming colours, russet vines, and glass-like lake created the perfect canvas for the photographer, artist and dreamer in me and I found myself imagining half

a day away on the beach! Merino socks and boots guard against frosty mornings and, by lunch time, I’m stripping down to my tee shirt, making for the perfect whether to go hiking, biking or kayaking. The only problem – which to choose first? I went kayaking. I had to. I’ve been promising myself I would learn to kayak for years, and the pristine blue waters of the lake were coaxing me, calling me. Bex from Wanaka Kayaks SUP and Sail was amazing. She showed me the basics then suggested she show me Ruby Island. I was intrigued. Upon hearing the story, all about the famous, prohibition days dance floor and the part Irish, part Chinese beauty, Ruby who inspired it all, I was in. Magic. Really the only way to describe it. Pure magic. The water parted beneath my paddles like forgiving silk. The sun warmed my soul, but the crisp, clean air kept me invigorated. Ruby Island was precious. A tiny haven off the shore of Lake Wanaka, Ruby Island is renowned for Ruby, its famed, runaway inhabitant, and its tyre-sprung wooden dance floor. We tied up our kayaks and went for an explore. Roughly three hectares square, Ruby Island is not big, but it’s definitely charming. Closing my eyes, I could easily imagine the 1920’s cabaret’s held every Saturday night on the dance floors – local’s dressed for a party, sneaking to the island in boats, the band carrying their instruments like babies on the rocking vessels, dancing and revelry

into the wee small hours… Bring back Cabaret Ruby is what I say! Bex had to drag me off the idyllic island! I could’ve camped there forever! The very next day Warbirds over Wanaka began. This internationally renowned event is one of the most amazing events I have ever had the fortune to attend! Eyes and necks craned skyward as daring aeronauts and aviation’s vintage darlings’ danced in the blue above the mountains of the Wanaka basin. Oh, to be part of the crowd, to gasp and whoop as these amazing men and women in their flying machines delight and defy gravity. Now, I’m no aviation connoisseur, but I was in my element. Machines that fly, speed, thrills and FOOD! Stalls upon stalls of delicious aromas sent my mouth running like a tap! Everything you can imagine from wood-fired pizza to classic hotdogs and fries; needless to say, I was stuffed! There was even wine! And not your average plonk, no! Rippon no less, and Maude Wines, two of Wanaka’s absolute elite labels. By the glass! Hold me back! A true carnival atmosphere, I found myself a spot near the main stand, as close to shade as possible – take a parasol – and lay back on my rather well-brought cushion and watched entranced as the main stage, the brilliantly big sky that can only be Wanaka, purred and thrummed with the stirring sound of aeronautical engines. Can you tell Warbirds gets me excited! All too soon the weekend ends

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HOSPITALITY

After an active day around the Southern Lakes, you will love the cozy atmosphere of our chic, yet beautifully relaxed lodge. · Uninterrupted Alpine views · Gourmet food and wine · Luxury accommodation and service · Indoor and outdoor fireplace · Underfloor heating throughout · Drying room Sole use of the lodge possible. Call: +64 (0)3 443 4995

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and it’s back to reality, but I have my memories, and, maybe even better, my photo diary of my Wanaka autumn adventure. Never would I profess to be good, but I do love getting behind the lens and autumn in Wanaka has lit a fire in my creative soul. Sneaking up on gently falling golden leaves, spending an hour on the lakefront trying to capture the perfect ripple on the lake that autumns mellow light has turned into a mirror, following the sweep of spitfires and tigermoths at Warbirds; my camera is practically taped to my hand for three days! Amazing, breathtaking, so much fun and so inspiring – I will be back! And wouldn’t you know it! Mere months later I’m back. There is definitely a magic pull to Wanaka. When the opportunity arises to take a winter break skiing in Wanaka – I’m out the door and on a plane before you can say ‘Jack Frost’! No one wears white like Wanaka! The mountains standing guard around the lake are capped in

pristine snow. The small lakefront village looks like a walking forest as hundreds of winter enthusiasts bustle about town, skis, poles and boards hefted on their shoulders. Snow bunnies of all ages flock to the largest skiable terrain in Australasia, and I get to be one of them! The entire town rocks with Après Ski vibes. You can boogie in your ski boots in Wanaka. Champion skiers and boarders from all over the world come to hone their skills on the slopes of Wanaka alongside beginners – me - and devotees – not me. And everyone is happy! Everyone is out to have a great run. The camaraderie on the ski fields is fantastic. No one seems to mind as I wipe out half a dozen kids as I try to get off the ski lift. No one cares as I trip – again – over my skis and into their tray of scrumptious-looking lunch. No one looks at all perturbed by my shrieking triumph as I finally make a successful turn. The locals have their favourites, but I’m lucky enough to experience

all three of the world class ski areas in Lake Wanaka. Voted New Zealand’s Best Ski Resort in Austria’s inaugural Ski Awards in 2013, Treble Cone – otherwise famed as the Misty Mountains in The Hobbit – has views that blow the cobwebs from any pair of last season’s woolly socks. Cardrona has it all in spades, for every level. Pipes, chutes, wide open terrain, all fantastic, unless you’re me! I’ll admit, I never made it past the first chairlift! Which is why I believe Snow Farm appealed so much. Daunted by the slender ski’s and the extremely handsome instructor, I soon developed an absolute love for cross country skiing. The shoop shoop and whizz of the skis in the tracks,

the brilliant workout – goodbye winter pounds – and the beauty and solitude of the back country, yes I am a cross country convert! So much so I signed up for next season! If you’re anything like me, you’ll be

thrilled to know the cafes at Treble Cone, Cardrona and Snow Farm are excellent! Oh, bring on the hot chocolate after a day carving it up on the hill! Listen to me! I’ll earn my snow bunny ears before the end of this ski season!

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Arrowtown

A FARE TOWN by Gary Cody

Seafood at New Orleans

Arrowtown

It would be fair to say Arrowtown has come of age when talking about food and wine.

ith the internationally acclaimed Saffron, under the guidance and expertise of Melanie Hill and Peter Gawron this establishment has had rave reviews for years. What can I say when people like Shania Twain, Sam Neil and ‘Digs’ Hargreaves rate this restaurant as a place to visit and enjoy when in “The Valley of Gold” Nestled among Arrowtown’s historic precinct Saffron is part of a group of dining and drinking outlets that should be on everyone’s to do list when staying or visiting the region. Accompanied by The Blue Door an evening and late night bar alongside Saffron managed by Chelsea Peter and Mel’s daughter. A great pre dinner drink locale or late 84

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night romantic venue after a meal at either of the group’s restaurants. Pesto is the other restaurant the makes up the triple treat down a little lane off the main street of the village. Obviously Italian driven food and beverages. Across the road and on the opposite side is The New Orleans Hotel. Established in 1866 know for its “Pub Grub” has recently taken a giant leap forward in the offerings available. Seafood extraordinaire is now available at “The Newo”. From local fresh Blue Cod and Stewart Island Oysters to Alaskan Crab, Wahoo and Mahi Mahi. A real treat when in the mountains but yet have the available salt-water varieties that often lack in this area. A huge range of great Kiwi Style food is available along with

some European influences that the Chefs have introduced from their homelands. Downstairs below the main Hotel Bar and restaurant is the popular Micky Finns Irish bar. Know for selling the “cheapest Guinness in the world”. $5 for a pint of Ireland’s hearty stout is a gift. At that price the black and white brew is fresh and silky, as meant to be served. Micky Finn’s also offers a great range of well-priced Pizzas. Hand made on site from the dough to the go. With fresh local ingredients and wonderful sauces and toppings this establishment is for all. I highly recommend this venue for accommodation, dining and functions. Wonderful prices, international staff and often live music to entertain on the outdoor balcony. Open for breakfast till late the New

La Rumba

Orleans is a venue for all seasons. For arguably the best pies in New Zealand Arrowtown Bakery is the stop. The queues and the delicious smell of fresh baking tell you the Arrowtown Bakery is just the place to stop to pick up a quick snack or a light lunch. Just donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t leave it too late on a busy day - they can be hard pressed to keep up with the demand for their excellent pies and pastries, especially the real specialties such as their

venison pie, though the traditional steak and onion is a treat also A big gooey vanilla slice goes down well with a coffee. Scones served with jam and thick cream make the perfect afternoon tea. A little further down the quaint street is a new addition to town. Although in an historic building Gibbston Valley cafĂŠ is one with some great points of difference. The menu is heavily Mediterranean style with wonderful house-made

Home of the famous Arrowtown Gourmet Pies Offering quality homemade fresh breads, sandwiches, cakes and slices Fantastic Coffee and great value menu and cabinet food available takeaway or eat in. Phone: 03 442 1587 Email: awbakery@xtra.co.nz Open 7 Days

Blue Door www.gotravelnewzealand.com

Saffron

pasta containing local free-range eggs with loads of other healthy options available. Antipasto platters abound with many other treats not to mention the organic coffee and milk. A little cheesery with retro-organic brands and local cheeses to taste is also inside this visitor experience. Making this a real experience is a wine tasting room with wines from “big brother” winery. A few kilometers from Arrowtown, Gibbston Valley Winery, This winery was the first winery in the region and the delightful vintages are available here to taste and purchase. Bliss. To totally make this one stop shop complete the little pantry sells delicatessen products and gifts that anyone back home would be pleased to receive. A must visit in Arrowtown. Down beside “The Village Green” is The Stables Restaurant again just off the main street. Located in an old stable as the name suggests the loft and the hay store are utilized as rooms for tables and chairs. A recent revamp has made this quaint establishment feel full of charm and history. A potbelly fire ensures

adequate warmth in the winter if you are there for lunch or an intimate evening meal. Hearty mains and healthy salads are strong offerings at this great venue. La Rumbla “bookings essential” explains it all. This would be one of the most popular establishments in The Wakatipu area. Great wine, cocktails, food, service and music all in the one place. That’s why the owners Penelope Johnson & Sam Gruar invite you to “stay awhile” ! International travel has given this couple an insight into food and flavours that compliment the Tapas style they offer. Super slick service, delicious food and cocktails to impress any “date” is an overview of a must visit restaurant in The Valley of Gold. Rave reviews and local attendance is a testament to this venue. There is even more but space and time is limited. The food and wine experiences available in Arrowtown are now vast with Mantra (Indian) Bonjour (French) and The Chop Shop café all excelling in their cultural and kitchen staffs’ expertise. Be fair to yourself. Try this great town and nicely surprise yourself.

Gibbston Valley Cafe

WINE BAR & CAFÉ

HANDMADE WINES

| ORGANIC COFFEE & FOODS GOOD WINE | GOO D FOOD | GOOD LIVI NG

A Taste of Gibbston Valley features a café and Arrowtow n’s door in one of the tow only winery cellar n’s most distinctive historic buildings. Café service from 8am to 5pm Deli and wine tasting into the evening

28 BUCKINGHAM STR

EET | ARROWTOW N (MAIN STREET) QUEENSTOWN NZ OPEN 7 DAYS | P (03) 409 8517

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ARROWTOWN FASHION

Twenty minutes drive from Queenstown is beautiful and historic Arrowtown. Discover a unique mix of history, activities and leisure. Update your wardrobe at Arrowtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top stores - IKON, Wallace & Gibbs and Te Huia. Friendly staff, beautiful stores, top brands, and gorgeous clothing that is impossible to resist! Check out IKON for edgy international looks for men and women and admire top designer brands at Wallace & Gibbs. Discover Arrowtownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s beautiful new store Te Huia, where absolutely everything has been made in New Zealand.

Shop 4, 50 Buckingham St. Arrowtown Ph: 03 442 1355 E: info@wallaceandgibbs.com Find us on Facebook

Shop 5, 50 Buckingham St. Arrowtown Ph: 03 442 1355 E: info@ikonnz.com Find us on Facebook

New to IKON this season is the French label American Vintage. A reinvention of the basics with comprehensive and trendy collections, drawn in a pure style with authentic simplicity. The creator of the label, Mickael Azoulay and his team of designers are in constant search for new materials and skilful blends of natural fibres, the garments are a fine, delicate wrap for the body. 88

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451 pms 411 100% pms New Zealand Made 38 Buckingham St. Arrowtown Ph: 03 442 1355 E: info@tehuianz.com

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Queenstown

QUEENSTOWN JETSETTING

Queenstown

So I have to admit I have always wondered what it would be like to star in an action movie.

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ou know like James Bond or Mission Impossible, where the hero and heroine blast their way along in fast cars, planes and boats to flee from the baddie. On a recent visit to Queenstown I had my first ‘James Bond’ moment and it was without a doubt the best water –based experience I’ve ever had. KJet promise “high-speed and adrenalin” and didn’t disappoint. Based at the main downtown pier in Queenstown’s CBD, KJet was the first commercial jet boat company in the world –they started this crazy activity

in Queenstown in 1960- so basically they were doing their thing way before anyone else and that certainly shows. The entire experience, staff knowledge and service are top notch. From the moment we’re greeted at the wharf by the cheery girl from Ireland who proceeded to check us in for our “hour of sheer power” to the funny, informative (and let’s face it cute) jet boat driver Jack, its clear everyone loves being here. It’s easy to see why jet boat drivers have that “cool” reputation usually reserved for musicians, ski instructors and TV stars. It’s pretty exciting watching these talented guys take

A firm favourite with locals & visitors alike, Atlas is the friendly bar with the beautiful views, at the back of Steamer Wharf. Famous steaks, delicious lunches, amazing tapas...

QUEENSTOWN’S CRAFT BEER HOME!

Open 7 Days Till Late Steamer Wharf, Queenstown 9300 Tel 03 442 5995 www.atlasbeercafe.com

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QUEENSTOWN

LUXURY AT AFFORDABLE PRICES Wai Luxury Suites offers high end furnished suites and boutique-style hospitality services to sophisticated travelers.

FREE LUXURY AIRPORT TRANSFERS FREE WI-FI IN-ROOM CHECK-IN SERVICE

The prestigious properties in our collection cater to the discerning guest, who expects the finest in quality and service.

LAKE VIEWS LIGHT FILLED SUITES GENEROUS SIZED KITCHENS LAUNDRY FACILITIES LUXURIOUS FURNISHINGS QUALITY LINEN ONSITE PARKING res@waiqueenstown.co.nz +64(3) 450 9388

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the helm of these boating beasts with apparent ease. After being fitted with the obligatory safety gear and posing for a snap for the holiday album it’s time to jump aboard the grunting, lurching yellow boat. Even sitting stationery you can already feel the pull of the jet boat’s 700 horsepower engine. It’s not long – after another wave to the camera guy who is safely ensconced on the pier- that Jack kicks the boat into action and we leap into drive. Jack gives us our safety brief and the obvious “no standing, don’t put your head out of the boat” and “hold on tight when I do this”–as he gesticulates a hand signal I later become aware means we’re heading into a 360 degree spin. Believe me you’ll want to hold on when you see that signal. Then it’s all on as we skim the surface of the crystal clear waters of Lake Wakatipu with the stunning and aptly-named Remarkables

Johnny Barrâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s is Queenstownâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only specialty sandwich shop, offering delicious, healthy and affordable meals for dine-in or take-away. We make a unique variety of sandwiches, salads, soups and fresh fruit smoothies to order. Come share the hospitality of Johnny Barr. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and late night, moustaches always welcome!

Open 7 Days: 7am till Late

Ph 03 409 0163 15 Church St, Queenstown 93 www.johnnybarrs.com www.gotravelnewzealand.com

Mountains on one side, Queenstown Bay in the distance and spectacular mountains whichever way you look. It’s not long before our driver pulls out his first 360 signal so I grip on for dear life as he spins us around much to the thrill, delight and let’s face it, absolute fear, of some in our group. The obligatory squeals and shrieks can be heard from everyone leaving no doubt that you’re on an adrenalin adventure. Jack expertly navigates the entrance to the historic Kawarau River at speeds of over 43km an hour, though at times it certainly feels more like 100km. It’s like being on a rollercoaster on water with natural hazards such as sheer rock faces and sand banks to navigate, making it all the more thrilling. Gently skimming the top of the shallow water – Jet boats only need 10 cm of water in order to operate- it feels like we’re flying and I can’t help but think we’re in a chase scene from a James Bond movie. I even turn around at times to see who might be in pursuit of the big yellow boat. We twist and turn onto the Shotover River which offers slightly different views and our driver slows things down a notch or two to regale us all with local history and details on the flora and fauna. The downtime isn’t long though and soon we’re in hot pursuit back to Queenstown. Our promised “hour of sheer power” is almost up, though not before a couple more 360’s on the river next to towering cliff faces. I can’t watch so I close my eyes and let out a blood curling wail much to the amusement of many in the boat. Safely back on dry land, the body

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is buzzing, the mind is magically alive and the adrenaline giggles just won’t stop. KJet certainly lived up to expectations and I can safely sleep knowing I have had at least one Bond moment in my life and one even Bond himself would surely relish. Once we’ve de-robed from our life jackets and spray jackets we’re told about the KJet Underwater Observatory which runs underneath the pier. We make our way downstairs and surprisingly are greeted by a large glass wall which upon closer inspection reveals ducks diving for food and an abundance of fish – mainly trout and eels. We’re told fishing in the bay is banned so the fish flock to the area for food, resulting in quite a lively display which will appeal to all the family. An informative display on local Maori and the history of the lake makes for a good read and of course feeding the fish is a must. This was quite a hidden gem and we’re glad we found it. After all the action we decide it must be time for a glass of Central Otago Pinot Noir so we find the nearest bar to sit back and reminisce about “the time we jet boated like James Bond” did in the World is Not Enough. We were certainly shaken not stirred.

We provide a range of services to meet all our customers needs. Such as Taxis, Vans, Specialist Transfers and a Total Mobility Vehicle. • Sightseeing • Airport Transfers • Group Travel Bookings • Weddings • Executive & VIP Transfers • Wineries

Door to Door Anytime Anywhere

0800 788 294

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For bookings email queenstownreservations@skyline.co.nz or phone +64 3 441 0101. Brecon Street, Queenstown, New Zealand. FLUID13053

skyline.co.nz 96

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OTAUTAHI TATTOO

NEW ZEALANDâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S PREMIER TATTOO STUDIO Here at Otautahi Tattoo we offer a warm, hygienic studio with the finest NZ tattoo artists open 7 days a week till late. We have all the qualities of an upmarket tattoo studio along with the necessary extras to provide the best custom tattoo art.

Open 7 Days 10am - Late 03 442 8883 www.otautahitattoo.co.nz 45 Camp St, Queenstown

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Fiordland

SOUNDS FABULOUS

Fiordland

Deep in the heart of Fiordland National Park, Justine Tyerman explores a lake, an underground power station, an alpine pass and a sound - or fiord. THE LAKE The weather looked as dubious as the name suggests as we headed for Doubtful Sound early one morning. We sped smoothly across a calm Lake Manapouri in the high-speed catamaran, Titiroa, in misty drizzle. Massive, glaciated peaks and ranges peered above the clouds which filled the steep-sided valleys and cirques. Halfway across the lake, a hint of pale gold on the horizon heralded sunrise, casting a shimmering path across the water and illuminating the dark clouds, hopeful signs the weather might do what Fiordland is famous for - the unexpected. One of the world’s wettest regions, Fiordland’s annual rainfall varies from 98

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one metre at Manapouri township, to three metres at West Arm, eight metres at Deep Cove, and in 2009 a staggering 16 metres at First Arm on Doubtful Sound. We were prepared for the worst, but the mist continued to lift revealing wonderful wooded islands and a shore fringed by dense beech forest. THE POWER STATION Arriving at West Arm on the far side of the lake, we were ushered into a visitor centre where I read about the history of the area and the Maori legends of creation with their mellifluous place names which always sound so much more

poetic than the English versions. Manawapore or Manawapouri, meaning Lake of the Sorrowing Heart, was formed by the tears of two sisters, Motorau and Korowae, daughters of an old Maori chief in the region. I also refreshed my knowledge of the valiant Save Manapouri campaign (1959-72), credited as the birth of New Zealand’s environmental consciousness. The original Manapouri Hydro Power Station scheme involved raising the lake level by 30 metres, which would have flooded the shoreline beech forests and drowned most of the lake’s 34 islands. There were widespread protests and in 1972, the government

of the day confirmed that, while the power station would go ahead, the lake level would not be raised. The power scheme at West Arm was extraordinarily audacious. Built inside a mountain 200 metres below lake level in a cavern excavated from solid granite, the station is New Zealand’s biggest. The project took 1800 workers eight years to complete in extremely harsh conditions and 16 men were killed underground or during construction of the road over Wilmot Pass linking West Arm on Lake Manapouri to Deep Cove on Doubtful Sound. Completed in 1971, the power station - one of New Zealand’s greatest engineering achievements was largely built to supply electricity to the Tiwai Point aluminium smelter near Bluff as well as feed into the South Island transmission network. The station utilises the 230-metre drop between the western arm of Lake Manapouri and the Deep Cove end of Doubtful Sound 10 kilometres away to generate electricity.

We boarded a bus driven by our guide, the delightful Chris Hughes and headed two kilometres down the dark spiral tunnel to the machine hall deep inside the mountain, a 111-metre long, 18-metre wide, 39-metre high cavern housing seven shiny, blue “exciters” which sit on top of the power generators. A thrilling if slightly scary experience. THE PASS The next part of our adventure was the bus trip over Wilmot Pass, another incredible feat of construction. Surveyor Ernest Wilmot gave his name to the pass although the Murrell family from Manapouri, at whose lovely historic Grand View House we stayed the previous night, claim their ancestor Robert Murrell discovered the route in 1888 and helped build the track to Deep Cove in 1901. The 22-kilometre road between Doubtful Sound and Lake Manapouri, one of New Zealand’s most remote roads, was built in the mid-1960s to provide heavy equipment access for

the construction of the power station. Floods, snow, mud and landslides lengthened the project from 12 months to two years making it the most expensive gravel road ever to be built in New Zealand, at something like $2 a centimetre. THE SOUND The sun was breaking through as we cruised down Doubtful Sound in the Tasman Explorer, skippered by Russell Dore whose forebears operated the original steamer, Titiroa, on Lake Manapouri in the 1880s. Deep Cove at the head of the sound is 40 kilometres from the open sea, making Doubtful the second largest of Fiordland National Park’s 14 fiords after Dusky Sound. As the clouds cleared, I felt overwhelmed by the immensity of the landscape - the colossal tectonic and glacial forces that had shaped the fiords and sculpted the towering mountains. Myriads of waterfalls plummeted straight to the sea from staggeringlywww.gotravelnewzealand.com

high overhangs or danced down the mountainsides in multiple tiers. Due to the sheerness of the mountain walls, Russell was able to nudge the prow of the ship right under the waterfalls in Crooked Arm giving those at the sharp end a Fiordland shower, and allowing Chris to collect a saucepan full to make waterfall tea. Rock and tree avalanches scarred the steep mountains, some fresh and raw, some beginning to regenerate, a process taking 150 to 200 years. Depending on rainfall, a two to 10-metre layer of fresh water floats on top of the sea water, stained brown from the tannins in the forest. The dark tannins make it difficult for light to penetrate so many deep-sea species such as black coral grow in the comparatively shallow depths of the sound. The endangered Fiordland crested penguins, one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s rarest penguins, and the resident pod of 60 bottlenose dolphins, were playing hard-to-get the day we called by but we cruised close to a colony of New Zealand fur seals at Nee Islets near the entrance to Doubtful Sound. Russell took us right out to the Tasman Sea where the vastness of the ocean, the power of the surging

swell, and the knowledge of what fury these elemental forces were capable of unleashing, engendered in me a huge sense of respect and awe. Captain James Cook was responsible for naming the sound. He sailed by in the Endeavour in 1770, calling it Doubtfull Harbour, after being uncertain whether, if he entered the inlet, there would be sufficient wind to manoeuvre his ship out of its narrow reaches. In 1793, Italian explorer Captain Alessandro Malaspina sent cartographer Don Felipe Bauza into the sound in a long boat. Bauza produced a remarkable map resulting in many Spanish place names, including a large island named Bauza. On our return journey, the cameras were out in force as the sound sparkled under a clear blue sky. In the space of 10 hours, we had experienced a great adventure and accomplished, in comfort, what used to take early travellers a week or more in sometimes appalling conditions. Fiordland smiled on us that day, and despite her moody, mysterious and sometimes inhospitable nature, I just canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t seem to get enough of the place.

Discover the beauty of Fiordland with a Te Anau Helicopter Services Scenic Flight. Enjoy and be amazed at the rugged mountains and rushing waterfalls with a flight of a lifetime.

Hanger 1 Te Anau Manapouri Airport Freecall 0800 234 890 info@teanauhelicopters.com www.teanauhelicopter.com 100

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Explore

Doubtful Sound

Overnight Cruise

Your Overnight Cruise includes: • Awesome scenery and amazing wildlife

• Friendly and knowledgable crew • Fishing for dinner • Kayaking to explore up close • Scuba diving (conditions apply)

“Fiordland Expeditions” - Loved it!

Reviewed August 2, 2013

If you are considering exploring Doubtful Sound, then Fiordland Expeditions is defintely the best way to do it. Our overnight cruise was an absolutely magical experience. Tutoko II is a very comfortable vessel, catering for a small group of people. On this cuise you are guaranteed a personal approach in a relaxed environment. Our crew - David and Mandy were fantastic hosts, they made us feel comfortable and extremely well fed! I do not think I have seen Crayfish the size they cooked us for dinner! The scenery of Doubtful Sound is really amazing but what makes it even better is how peaceful it is. Over two days we were the only boat cruising around this spectacular part of New Zealand. Everything about this trip was just fabulous. I had my reservations about going on a cruise in the middle of winter, thinking it might be cold and uncomfortable but I could not have been more wrong. The boat was very warm and the scenery was breath-taking. Kayaking the Sound is a must! It will definitely be something to remember. I would highly recommend this trip to anyone who is keen to visit this part of the world.

Phone Email Web

0508 888 656 or +64 3 249 9005 info@fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz/overnight-cruise

fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz www.gotravelnewzealand.com 101

Southland

SAVOURING SOUTHLAND by Gary Cody

Southland

Bluff Oyster Festival

Growing up beside the sea in The Deep South was a treat. The ocean furnished us with many delicacies that, as usual, were never appreciated until they were not available.

he salty seaside town of Bluff is home to a fleet of oyster boats and the main gateway to Stewart Island – New Zealand’s third largest island. It is the oldest European settled town in New Zealand and offers fascinating maritime history. Southland is our most southern region - sparsely populated and famed for native bird sanctuaries and an untouched natural environment. With great food, friendly locals and plenty of space it’s a great place to get back to nature. Southland is the home of the World’s Fastest Indian,

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the Bluff Oyster and Mayor Tim Shadbolt – all icons of the South and New Zealand. One of these special treats is the Bluff Oyster. Being offered oysters in many parts of the world is one thing but knowing they will not even come near the unique flavour of “The Bluffie” at times appears arrogant. Many regions in New Zealand seem to think they have replicated this explosive flavour, however most are not even in the same street. The oyster season runs from a time in March decided on by Fisheries authorities until the quota of around 15 million oysters

are dredged. During this time The Bluff Oyster Festival is held in the port town and is well worth a visit if you want to really sample the ocean dredged shellfish and be entertained by the locals. While the oysters are the central focus of the annual festival, other local specialties are also on offer including sought-after Muttonbirds, crayfish, wild foods and a variety of fresh seafood abundant in the region. Festival entertainment is also oyster-related with everything from ‘piping in the oyster’ at the start of festivities, to oyster opening and

eating competitions and oyster sack creativity awards. Live music adds to the atmosphere and friendly Bluff locals make this winter festival one of the country’s most popular food and wine events. Bluff oysters are said to be the most flavoursome in the world because they are slowly grown in the cold, clean waters of Foveaux Strait until they are large, plump and juicy. The official oyster-harvesting season runs from March until June or July – depending on when the yearly quota is reached. There were always plenty of sheep around when I was a youngster, so many in fact, that in those days it was around 20 sheep to every living soul in New Zealand. One guy who has really taken advantage of their numbers is CEO of Blue River, Keith Neylon. Growing up in a rural town, Keith really

had a great understanding of the wooly ones. It is not their wool that Keith is interested in these days however, it is their milk. Blue River is totally integrated, where they farm the sheep, milk the sheep, transport the milk and process it into cheese, ice cream and milk powder. A visit to the Invercargill factory and tasting room and shop must be completed to enjoy the flavours and unique tastes of the wonderful cheeses and ice cream. One of my favourites was the Curio Bay Pecorino. It has a natural rind and has a very distinctive flavor. This cheese I imagine to be versatile and used in many ways. Tasting food and wine is a very personal matter and at Blue River the analysis is left up to the visitor. Tastings

where the company forces the flavour and the product on one as they see it make for an uncomfortable experience. You will not have this happen at Blue River. I was asked for my opinion rather than being told what I was experiencing. Within walking distance of the CBD, Blue River should be on all foodies’ schedules. It was then on to The Seriously Good Chocolate Company and the word seriously did mean something. Located right in the CBD this café/ factory is a chocolate lovers paradise. Even if chocolate is not your thing the café has freshly made fare from around the Southland region. Jane Stanton, the owner, began with family recipes perfected by her grandfather, once Mayor of Hokitika, an historic township and weatherbeaten port on the South Island’s dramatic West Coast. He had a chocolate business there. And there would be little forgiveness for a poor flavour in those wild days on “The Coast”. Over time with the maturing of The Seriously Good Chocolate Company has developed into making unique and iconic chocolates such as the wine infused varieties with unforgettable flavours. The factory can be seen from the café and the variety of chocolate

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Southland MUSEUM & ART GALLERY

Mrs Clark’s - Riverton

NIHO O TE TANIWHA

OPEN MON TO FRI 9 - 5PM WEEKENDS & PUBLIC HOLS 10 - 5PM

FREE ENTRY 108 Gala St, Invercargill Ph. 03 219 9069 office@southlandmuseum.co.nz www.southlandmuseum.com

ON GALA CAFE For a great selection of food & drinks OPEN DAILY 10 - 4PM www.gotravelnewzealand.com 104

available is stunning. My favourite is the cranberry and pinot noir. The flavours and mixes this establishment produces are mind-boggling. Whether you have a sweet tooth or not, this attraction has to be on your to-do list. After a 40-minute drive I arrived in Gore, a rural servicing town, to visit The Hokonui Moonshine Museum. While moonshining was equally popular and diligently pursued from Bluff to the far North it’s Southland and particularly the Hokonui district that has become so famous and a unique part of New Zealand’s folklore. Over the years changes in government law helped sustain this cottage industry. The Distillation Prohibition Act of 1865 ensured spirit craftsmen were going to be kept busy while in 1905 the whole Southland Invercargill area went ‘dry’. Hokonui was at the centre of this ‘dry’ area and the law gave an enormous boost to demand, so much that local production had to be supplemented by imports from Otago. The Museum has an informative interactive journey as a highlight along with amazing memorabilia from the moonshining period. A taste of the real spirit at the end of the experience put a nice cap on a wonderful experience. The next evening it was dinner at Louies, an iconic establishment in Invercargill. Proprietor Mana Davis has had a successful hospitality career both in Queenstown and Invercargill. Situated in

the CBD area this restaurant oozes a welcoming ambience. Two open fires with a rustic charm and a well stocked wine list and cocktails only leaves for one other ingredient to make for an enjoyable evening. The food…. I had a chicken breast, served on wilted spinach and mash, drizzled with a wine jus. The flavours were superb. I couldn’t have wished for better. Desserts were all tempting; the crab apple pie I sampled was a little tart for my taste but the squashed chocolate cake was perfect. Interesting wine list and well priced wines by the glass and bottle. You won’t be disappointed. A company that is making a huge impact on the export and local consumption of wholesome food from the region is Back Country Cuisine and its sister company The

Whalers display

Louies Cafe and Tapas Bar - Invercargill

Outdoor Gourmet Company. This is a very unique experience for me. The food is freeze-dried which assists in retaining the goodness and flavour. Meals in long lasting packs that are ideal for outdoor trampers, climbers, mountain bikers and others who are looking for wholesome meals but want limited weight. Aboard a yacht or any other reason you want fresh tasting food that is lightweight and long lasting. Magical product to say the least. The menu is vast and interesting, from wild mushrooms and lamb risotto to venison and rice noodle stir-fry. The Outdoor Gourmet

Jeremy Pierce, Hokonui Moonshine Museum

company has teamed up with top Australian chefs and have created an amazing selection of convenient and lightweight gourmet meals. Check their product out - it’s a winner!! The next night I spent in my hometown of Riverton. Recommendations and accolades were all I had heard about Mrs Clarks, an award-winning café (the country’s best café in the 2012-13 New Zealand Best Café Awards). It is in the main street of the seaside town at the mouth of the Aparima River (Aparima being the native and original name of the town). I remember the old building well.

It was a bakery when I was a lad in short pants and had lots of goodies that Mother often afforded us on a lucky day. It’s still full of goodies!!! Good people, good food and amazing ambience. Simple, rustic but suits the location and town perfectly. On meeting the owners Cazna Gilder and her husband Pat I knew things would be terrific. I wasn’t wrong. Caz an outgoing and proud mine host looks after the front end of the business while Pat her husband is in the engine room pumping out superb breakfast and lunches. This team is unique, superb and very proud. And so they should be. A breakfast is a breakfast however my fare was just epic. I think what really made my meal was the local sausage that Pat uses along with bright-yoked, organic, free-range eggs. I knew I was in a special place. I’m a fussy coffee drinker and the coffee was as good as any world-class café in Melbourne could produce. It may be the beans, it may be the espresso machine however, with Caz’s touch, it is divine. Riverton is well worth a visit, the highlight being Te Hikio Museum and there will be more about this seaside gem in future issues. Watch this space. Go Southland!!! www.gotravelnewzealand.com

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