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T H E WOR L D’ S B E ST OF T H E B E ST AC C OR DI NG TO L X RY
CHAMPAGNES
F R O M L’ Â M E D E L A T E R R E T O W I L L I A M D E U T Z
CHAMPAGNES
LXRY INTERNATIONAL 2017
02/25 LE CLOS SAINT-HILAIRE BRUT, BILLECART-SALMON 1998 Limited-production single-vineyard champagne, created from 100% pinot noir. Refined in nose and taste, lovely fruits, pronounced, well developed, and a lively finale with a fresh taste. Price: €370–450. CH A M PAGN E-BI LLEC A RT.FR
Rating 97
J Billecart-Salmon, based in Mareuil-sur-Aÿ, is run by the descendants of the original 1818 founders: Nicolas François Billecart and his wife Elisabeth Salmon.
01/25 BOLLINGER
The RD extra brut matures for a long time in the bottle: somewhere between 8 and 20 years. Strikingly aromatic; full, broad, matured; obvious vanilla, white fruit and pear; an absolute dinner champagne. Only 2,000 bottles of the Vieilles Vignes Françaises are produced in the top years; therefore, it’s a true collector’s item. Originates from two tiny pinot-noir vineyards, grafted into original French rootstocks. Price: RD – €220–290; Vieilles Vignes – €695. CH A M PAGN E-BOLLI NGER.COM
Rating 99
J Bollinger is often said to be the gentleman’s Champagne: elegant and reserved, with a great backbone. In Ian Fleming’s book ‘Diamonds Are Forever’ from 1956, James Bond receives a bottle of Bollinger from his love interest Tiffany Case. Bollinger does not appear in the James Bond films, however, until ‘Live and Let Die’ in 1973.
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CHAMPAGNES
LXRY INTERNATIONAL 2017
03/25 DOM PÉRIGNON OENOTHÈQUE BRUT, MOËT ET CHANDON 1996
Dom Pérignon, named after the monk who supposedly created sparkling wine, is a prestigious brand that is exclusively produced in the best vintage years. The Oenothèque is a vintage with an extra-long maturing process. Rich and complex with floral tones and the impression of brioche and hazel, forever fresh in its taste, with a very long finale. Price: €399. MOET.COM
Rating 96
05/25
J The song ‘Back to Back’ by Drake contains the lyrics: “You gon’ make me buy bottles for Charlamagne.” After finishing the song, Drake did actually send six bottles of Dom Pérignon to radio presenter Charlamagne, with whom he had been involved in a long-running dispute. The note accompanying the gift said: “Let’s be friends.”
CRISTAL BRUT, LOUIS ROEDERER 1999
In the late nineteenth century Louis Roederer was a purveyor to the Russian tsar. At his request the champagne was bottled in a unique crystal bottle, which represented the birth of the first cuvée crystal. Aromatic champagne with citrus tones, blossom and soft yellow fruits. A refined influence of toasted wood; lots of body; stays fresh and gracious, with a lovely finale. Price: €195–300. LOU IS-ROEDER ER.COM
04/25
Rating 93
J LES CR AYÈRES, BLANC DE NOIRS GR AND CRU VIEILLES VIGNES BRUT, EGLY-OURIET True terroir champagne, coming from one pinot-noir vineyard that dates from 1946. You can smell and taste red fruit, as well as apricots and citrus. Lively, refreshing acids generate a long aftertaste and extra finesse. Price: €150.
For a long time, Louis Roederer’s prestige cuvée, Cristal, was the Champagne of choice for superstar rappers such as Jay Z and Snoop Dogg. Their friend Notorious B.I.G. rapped: “Cristal forever. Play the crib when it’s mink weather.” However, once spokesmen of Louis Roederer made a few comments to the press in which they expressed their dislike for this association, the proud rappers quickly switched to other brands.
Rating 94
J One of the world’s top sommeliers, Véronique Rivest, claims to drink a glass or two of Egly-Ouriet Champagne in advance of every Best Sommelier competition.
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CHAMPAGNES
LXRY INTERNATIONAL 2016
08/25
09/25
10/25
DOM RUINART BLANC DE BLANCS, RUINART 1998
CUVÉE S LE MESNIL BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT, SALON 2002
SUBSTANCE BLANC DE BLANCS, JACQUES SELOSSE NV
The top cuvée of Ruinart is named after the monk Thierry Ruinart, who worked with the legendary Dom Pérignon. The wine is not released until it has matured for eight to nine years in the cellar. A very delicate sparkle; brioche, slightly spiced, exotic yellow fruits and a fine minerality; juicy, balanced and complex, with considerable length. Price: €150–175.
The special thing about Salon is that it produces only one millésime champagne, which is made of only one grape: chardonnay. Originates from a one-hectare grand-cru vineyard in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger and 19 other small parcels. This is the 38th edition and simply the best ever. A very soft sparkle; a nose of green apple and citrus; a complex and refined taste with minerals and freshness; and a powerful finale. Price: €365–400.
The eccentric and driven winemaker Anselme Selosse detests tedious products and rules. He lost his biodynamic certification because he considered it to be too strict. The Substance matures, like sherry, in a solera system. Tumultuous, matured, rich and dry champagne with flavours of cacao and candied fruit. Price: €260–300.
SA LON DEL A MOTT E.COM
Rating 86
RU I NA RT.COM
Rating 87
SELOSSE-LESAV ISES.COM
Rating 86
06/25 CLOS DU MESNIL BLANC DE BLANCS BRUT, KRUG 2000
Krug distinguishes itself from other champagne houses through its fermentation process, in small oak barrels, and its relatively long maturing period of six to eight years. Clos du Mesnil stems from a historical vineyard of 1.85 hectares. An extremely delicate sparkle; a toasty impression; brioche tones; orange, yellow apple and marzipan; and a complex and refined taste with minerals. Price: €800. K RUG.COM
Rating 90
07/25 CUVÉE SIR WINSTON CHURCHILL BRUT, POL ROGER 1996
Prestige cuvée honouring the British politician who apparently was a big fan of Pol Roger champagne. A vinous champagne: open, aromatic and wide, with impressions of almonds and butter. A complex wine with clear influences of wood, sufficient freshness, a very long aftertaste and potential for long storage. Price: €121. POLROGER.COM
J The Krug company caused controversy at the Burning Man festival in 2011, when it sponsored a multi-course gourmet dinner. As well as hiring photographers to cover the event, the brand failed to clean up afterwards. This violated two of Burning Man’s golden rules: it has always been a non-commercial event, and the goal is to leave no trace.
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Rating 88
J When Churchill died in 1965, Pol Roger placed a black border around its labels, and since 1984 the house’s prestige cuvée has been named after him.
11/25
L’ÂME DE LA TERRE BRUT, FR ANÇOISE BEDEL ET FILS 2003
12/25
13/25
CUVÉE DES CAUDALIESGR AND CRU LE MESNIL EXTR A BRUT, DE SOUSA 2005
WILLIAM DEUTZ MILLÉSIME BRUT, DEUTZ, CHAMPAGNE, FR ANCE 2000
The diversity in the Champagne region is flourishing thanks to an increase in smallscale producers like Françoise Bedel. A rich wine that has a silky feel in the mouth, with an oriental spiciness, honey, pleasant fruit, a fine maturation, length and a lively aftertaste. Price: €45–55.
Erick De Sousa is one of the key champagne producers. This fantastic cuvée stems from 50-year-old chardonnay vines. Rich and complex, broad and intense flavour, extremely aromatic, clear influences of wood, well balanced in between fresh and tender tones, and an exceptionally long finish. Price: €145–152.
Finesse and precision characterise the wines of Deutz. A long maturing process in the bottle and a high percentage of grand cru define them. The William Deutz is the top cuvée: a fine sparkle; delicate tones in nose and taste; a lovely ullage, which plays an important part in the making of pinot noir; perfect balance; and a remarkable fruity finale. Price: €119.
CH A M PAGN E-BEDEL .FR
CH A M PAGN EDESOUSA.COM
CH A M PAGN E-DEU TZ .COM
Rating 83
Rating 81
Rating 81 329
CHAMPAGNES
LXRY INTERNATIONAL 2016
14/25
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CELEBRIS VINTAGE EXTR A BRUT, GOSSET 2002
DIZY – CORNE BAUTR AY MILLÉSIME EXTR A BRUT, JACQUESSON 2004
CUVÉE VIOLAINE EXTR A BRUT, BENOÎT LAHAYE 2008
GR AND SIÈCLE BRUT, LAURENT-PERRIER NV
COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE, ROSÉ, TAITTINGER 2004
One of the few champagne producers that ploughs its vineyard with horses. 4.8 hectares, organic cultivation. Violaine is an extra brut in nature: no dosage, and no added sulphites. A frothy mousse, white fruits and floral tones, nice and high acids, lots of length. Price: €121.
This prestigious wine is assembled from the finest grapes of 11 grand crus, and only the best vintage years qualify. It ages for seven to eight years in the cellar. The corporate identity of Laurent-Perrier – elegant, refined and fresh – is ideally expressed in this wine. Aromatic, lively, energetic and well balanced; fruity; light brioche; subtle smoky hint. Price: €125.
One of the oldest champagne houses and, after a brief interruption, still a family business. A delicate mousse, light tangerine impressions, intense influence of minerals, fruity, fresh apple, fine acids, light floral tones, good spiciness and a lively finale with a hint of cherries. Price: €140–180.
L’ESPRIT DE 2008 GR AND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS, PIERRE PÉTERS 2008
Rating 76
L AU R EN T-PER R I ER.COM
Gosset dates from 1584, and is therefore one of the oldest champagne houses in the world. The Celebris is the top cuvée. A subtle sparkle; an intense range of noses, with candied fruit, nougat and honey impressions; a sufficient roundness; and a fresh taste. A never-ending quality. Price: €99–125. CH A M PAGN E-GOSSET.COM
This wine originates from a one-hectare vineyard planted in 1960. Eight years of ageing in the bottle. The minerals in the taste and nose are floral. Fruity elements, with a slight nuttiness. Fresh and recognisable chardonnay with a good potential for storage. Price: €140. CH A M PAGN EJACQU ESSON.COM
Rating 79
TA I TT I NGER.COM
Rating 69 Rating 77
Rating 70
The Péters family (originally from Luxembourg) has produced champagne since 1946, almost exclusively Blanc de Blancs. Rodolphe Péters, the current owner, modernised the company and improved its quality. L’Esprit, deriving from the best parcels, generates an elegant nose with aromas of dried fruit. Sparkling taste, rich in minerals, a gorgeous accompaniment to a meal. Price: €50–55. CH A M PAGN E-PET ERS.COM
Rating 68
24/25
17/25
LA CLOSERIE LES BÉGUINES BLANC DE NOIRS EXTR A BRUT, JÉRÔME PRÉVOST 2012
19/25 18/25
BLANC DE BLANCS VIEILLES VIGNES, FR ANCIS BOULARD & FILLE 2010
LA GR ANDE DAME, VEUVE CLICQUOT PONSARDIN 1998
A small family business led by the unconventional Pascal Agrapart. A strong focus on terroir and natural methods. A delicate sparkle; intensely lively nose of ripe apple, orange, yellow prunes, mango and honey; lots of taste; reviving acids; and good length. Price: €48.
Organic growth, a production volume that was reduced several years ago and a maturing process that takes place in barrels of wood from the nearby Argonne forest: Claude Giraud – the 12th generation of the family to produce Henri Giraud champagne – makes every effort to give his wines the highest quality, as well as a distinct character. Rich bouquet with white fruits, spices, minerals and a smoky touch; lots of flavour. An eccentric champagne. Price: €45–50.
V EU V E-CLICQUOT.COM
CH A M PAGN E-AGR A PA RT.COM
CH A M PAGN E-GI R AU D.COM
Single-vineyard champagne that stems from a three-hectare biodynamic vineyard. Complex, clear, rich and intense, carrying a lovely expression of terroir, minerals and high acids, and with a fine length. Price: €121.
Rating 71
Rating 66
Rating 65
Rating 63
A small-scale champagne producer who works his two-hectare vineyard in a biodynamical way. Les Béguines is one of the few champagnes made entirely out of the pinot-meunier grape. Really clear taste and nose; full of character; reviving; fruit, light citrus and floral tones; and acidity. Nice length. Price: €65–75.
Biodynamical grow. The Blanc de Blancs originates from an area of 0.4 hectares with 45-year-old chardonnay vines. Fermentation in barriques, no dosage. Intense aromas, with an almost explosive feel in the mouth, and impressions of apricots and orange. Complex wine with plenty of length. Price: €35–45.
This house produces around 17 million bottles that ripen in the old, 24-kilometre-long cellar system. This amazing cuvée is named after the widow Nicole-Barbe Clicquot, who turned it into a worldwide brand. A fine sparkle; yellow apple; subtle tobacco hints; a lively citrus element; honey; minerals; and a well-developed, rich floral aftertaste with creamy undertones. Price: €100–150.
FR A NCIS-BOU L A R D.COM
Rating 74
Rating 73
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23/25
HOMMAGE À FR ANÇOIS HÉMART GR AND CRU, HENRI GIR AUD
BLANC DE BLANCS, GR AND CRU TERROIRS EXTR A BRUT, AGR APART
25/25
L’APÔTRE BLANC DE BLANCS EXTR A BRUT, DAVID LÉCLAPART 2008
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