Irish Hairdresser Issue 95 by Irish Hairdresser

Issue 95

A quality magazine providing industry content since 1996 100% Irish

Ireland’s No. 1 Hair Magazine

irishhairdresser international

Est. 1996

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Editorial Goodbye, farewell and all theﬁrest 2020.up the ﬂoodgates WE ARE BACK! Our industry nallytoopened

to Personal Hairdressing Services in May when the Government lifted Covid-19 restrictions, aftertoﬁve closed. It hasthe certainly been a challenge saylong the months least but if you For certain, the hair industry is valued and is a necessary r e s s e are reading this you are testament to both your physical r ishhaird self worth, personal service for ones wellbeing, self iresteem, and mental strength. Time now to let it go and start on a human dignity and mental health. Our industry is established different path of realisation Life is short. in every community in Ireland.and We values. are on the main streets,Get side streets, shopping centres, hotels, spas etc. We have proved we out your bucket list and be ready for new challenges. matter to people. People trust and conﬁde in us and value our opinion. We love what we do - all day every day. Remember Congratulations to ALL the winners of the BEST of the Hairdressing is in the top 3 career choices! We are trusted BEST/HABIC 2020. component It was a good yearIt for by clients with aAwards most important – Hair. can Bridget Haren...no, actuallytoI’d was alook great make a mammoth difference thesay, way itpeople andyear!. feel and ‘we certainly hair good’ making people look She almost sweptcan thedoboards in the Awards. Yes, sheand won feel fantastic. Best Haircutter, Best Bridal Hairstyist, Best Avant Garde Ireland’s

No. 1 Hair

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Issue 82 €5 : £3.35stg.

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Est. 1996

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Stylist and Best Editorial Stylist. Overall she wonelbow the It’s all positive vibes now; there are lots of welcomes, main titlesafety ‘Ireland’s Hairdresser the service Year. There washair no hugging, protocols, gratitude,ofgood and good days. Scalp condition is a big for problem stopping her at that point asissue she also went onsolving to winnow the after Covid19 so we haveBusiness lots of remedy products and advice Best Hair Salon in the Awards. Congratulations in this issue. Good Customer Service is a key commodity to all Bridget, well deserved, you are testament to the saying businesses. If your customer service was good before Covid19 ‘Persistence off’. then it must bepays twice as good now. Remember each individual in the salon is responsible for great customer service, so don’t think justnoted the owner managers responsibility! It hasit’s to be also or that Paul Mac, 3 times winner of

the BEST of the Awards willYou receive our Hall Do you know yourBEST own career value? must learn it if of Fame Award. is a massive influence barberingand here you don’t. WhatHe I mean is the value of yourin experience knowledge in your to date, the time you in Ireland and his profession visualisation of things canand bepassion fabulously put into your career training and educating yourself to be as normal and commercial to off-the-richter creative scale! good as you are? If you don’t already know your value, check Paul we love you!

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out some tips within this issue. Keep up the education and training too because your nearest salon will proberly be on the Hope all enjoy issue. things when you are out and internetyou learning new this and exciting about. Maeve And lastly remember to take care of yourself and stay safe.

Maeve O’Healy-Harte 2

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Contents

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WINNERS

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Paul Hairdresser Stafford Irish Hairdressing Liam Byrne Apprenticeship Hairdressing Council Alopecia HABIC Wella Professionals David Murray Digital Salon 30 Days to Grow Challenge Waynelloyd_loves Impact of Covid 19 PHAB Sevice Stars Trichology The HelpingIreland Hand Award 2020 Take KnowTen Your Worth The Alternative Hair Show Antoinette Beenders HABIC Best of the BEST Awards Hairdressing Apprenticeship BOB Hairdresser of the Year 20/21 Mirror Mirror Awards Trichologists OMC Awards Council Hairdressing International Black and White Winner Wood Nymphs International Colour Winner CosmosVirtual and Mythology Phorest Event International Men’s Collection Winner Adíos to Raffel Pages Paul Mac Hall of Fame Irish Barber Editor:

Editor: Art Direction:

Maeve O’Healy-Harte (maeveohealyharte@gmail.com) Maeve O’ Healy-Harte

Wayne Lloyd (maeveohealyharte@gmail.com) (wayne@hairstylist.ie) Wayne Lloyd (wayne@hairstylist.ie) Publisher Gold Vision Ltd Publisher: Gold Vision Ltd. Admin: Vika Rosasko Sales: 086 355 5596 Sales: 086 355 5596 Design: www.studio93.ie Design: Inspire.ie No reproduction of any part of this magazine is permitted without prior consent. The greatest of care has been taken to ensure accuracy, but the part publisher accept responsibility No reproduction of any of thiscannot magazine is permitted for omissions or errors.The greatest of care has been without prior consent. taken to ensure accuracy, but the publisher cannot accept responsibility for omissions or errors. Art Direction:

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Cover: Paul Stafford Cover: Bridget Haren Photo: Lee Mitchell Photo: KEST

Issue 95

Issue 94

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alfaparfmilano.com alfaparfmilano.com

Paul Stafford ALFAPARF Milano Global Ambassador DENMAN Global Creative Director Hairdresser, Husband, Father and much more… IH: Please introduce yourself to our readers Paul…

Paul: I'm Paul Stafford, I have a salon in Belfast with my wife, Lisa. We've run our own salon now for 25 years. I grew up in Belfast, but my parents moved to Dundalk in the early 80s. So I started my hairdressing career there and worked with some amazing hairdressers. But I always felt that I was going to go back to Belfast as that was really where my spiritual home and my soul was. I moved back when I met Lisa in 1986 and I went to work in a great salon called ZACH's. It was a very unusual place. There were probably 50 or 60 hairdressers working there at the height of ‘the troubles’ in Northern Ireland. So you can imagine what that was like! ZACK’s was a hotbed of creativity. Everybody was on their ‘A game’ and there was a competitive spirit among us, everybody wanted to be the best and have the biggest clientele, and do the strongest haircuts and the best work. But it was ‘good’ competition. It wasn't, vicious or aggressive and there was no meanest in it. We were a real collective team. I probably found my desire for the creative aspect of the industry there. You know, that's where I first started photographic work and competitions. But my background in Dundalk was also instrumental, not because I worked there with a great hairdresser that trained with Sassoon in the 60’s, but he gave me a real passion for creative and precision haircuting.

And I think that's something that stuck with me all through my life, even though he was teaching me things that I had no interest in, like Pageboys, Purdy cuts, one length bobs, Cleopatra style, all those kind of haircuts. I remember saying to him, “no one wants these haircuts!” And he said, “I'm not teaching you haircuts I am teaching you ‘method”. And that stuck with me all my life. So it was really interesting times there. In the mid 80s, when I returned to Belfast, there was a real spirit that something exciting was happening in the industry, there was a change. There were a lot of people at that time who were really influential. In the very early days, I met Anthony Mascolo who was hugely inspirational to me; because he loved the rawness of the industry, where as Sassoon was all about precision. Anthony had an edgy sense of what was not only attractive to the client, but also a new direction for us hairdressers. He brought things to my game that I didn't know existed, about dressing hair and understanding suitability, sexiness, beauty, all the stuff that I hadn't really thought about up to that time. Because up until then, I was just a little punk! I just wanted to do strong outrageous haircuts. So the early days were really exciting. Of course, I was making no money. I was starving; I lived in a most awful place. But I never once thought I was hard done by. I've always felt lucky as I always seem to be in the right place at the right time. IH: It’s very strange and difﬁcult trying to explain that era to young hairdressers now. Who would you look to for inspiration now? Paul: I’m inspired by everything. I mean, of course, I can look at somebody like Angelo Seminara on stage and analyze, imagine and really, understand his different level of thinking. But on the other hand, I can also look at somebody like Andrew College, and really appreciate his simplicity and the essence of beauty of his work. But I do think the industry is so full of amazing people at the moment.

I’ll tell you what, it is easier for me to tell you what I’m less inspired by! I’m less inspired by the social media hairdresser, that hairdresser who doesn’t work behind the chair, who simply lives their life on Facebook and Instagram, they don’t really understand what hairdressing is all about. Because for me, everything is about people. It’s not about the person behind the chair, it’s about the person ‘in the chair’. And that person in the chair is the most vital component to a hairdresser’s relationship/ business. Because if those people in the chair stop

I'm not teaching you haircuts I am teaching you ‘method”. And that stuck with me all my life.

coming in, the rest of it is academic. What really inspires me are people who’ve got longevity, who are consistent, who, really love the passion and the craft of hairdressing for what it’s really about, as opposed to ‘who they can be in it’. So that I hope that answers your question. The youth culture has kind of sadly died a little bit. We were part of tribes and gangs in the 70’s and 80’s. We had to be, you know, the ‘new romanticism’ or ‘modernism’, or ‘punk’ or ‘rockabilly’. And then you’ve got to remember that we didn’t have access to information the kids have today with the internet. And one of the things I often say to people is that we can never look back, we must only look forward, because the past is gone. So it’s irrelevant. You and I might not agree with everything some young kid says like that something cooler is happening, because we were that kid one time. And you know, I’m all about that kid, whenever I’m at something like the Alfaparf Fantastic Hair Awards, and I see those kids do the things they are doing. I remember being like that in the old days. I also remember speaking to judges afterwards. And the one thing a good judge never did then is be judgmental. They might decide, what’s a good haircut or what’s a better haircut, but they didn’t judge the individual. Nowadays, I think that’s a problem. Judges now sometimes judge the individual and I think that identity is gone a little bit. So for me, that’s one of the sad things, because everything’s so accessible. I mean, the majority of hairdressers who would have been sitting at home for the last few months, can literally get all the information, all the education, all the knowledge they need by the touch of a button. Whereas back in our day, we had to buy the books, we had to seek out the people we wanted to go in and learn from. People just don’t have to do that anymore. So, you know, maybe that’s the biggest regret I think of the current generation. But you know, we were young one time too! IH: Yes, we were! On a slightly lighter note, Paul, you must must have some funny stories to share with us?

Paul: Yes!, firstly, I think you used to be able to say a lot more to clients and we could be cheekier but in a kind way. But now it’s all so very politically correct! But I do remember a client came in to me and she was kind of a hippie, dippie bohemian, and I had done her hair a few times prior to that. Anyway, on this particular day, she brought in a picture with her, and she said “this is how I want my hair to look”, but picture was a picture of an Afghan Hound. And she said, “I really just love the texture and all the different tones and the colors, and I love the way it moves. Do you think it would suit me”. Without thinking I said ‘I definitely think you have the face for it’! And I remember afterwards thinking, OMG, did

I really say that. But I mean, you know, in the 80s and 90s, where there was a lot more eccentricity. And, you know, when these kind of strange or sometimes eccentric people come into the salon, you embrace them. It’s what made the industry so exciting! IH: I agree 100%. I know what a busy man you are, how did you motivate yourself during lockdown as you never stop working!.

Paul: It’s was just such an unreal time for us all, it was like nothing I’ve ever experienced. I think the thing that was the biggest problem for us, as hairdressers, of course, is that we’re just used to having something to do all the time. You know, I mean, even if we’re not in the salon, we’re thinking about hair and we’re always doing something related to the industry. I don’t know any hairdresser, who doesn’t think about the craft of the industry 100%. I think we were one of the first salons to close in Belfast. For me, I just sensed the fear inside the salon and our team also felt it. For the first two weeks of lockdown, I couldn’t do anything. I just wasn’t motivated at all. The sadness of closing the salon was so overwhelming. I think that Lisa and I went into holiday mode as we were actually supposed to be on holiday, so we just like, said

okay, let’s just take some time out to think about this. It was a very unproductive time for everyone and then it became slightly depressing because the reality kicked in, and we said to each other “this is serious”! I’ll tell you something very interesting. I was in Dublin, the week before you had lockdown and David Donnellan from Xpert, told me that this pandemic was going to be really bad and it was coming up our way too. I didn’t believe him. I thought he was blowing it up a bit. But, OMG, he was so right. And I think, the one thing that people in the south of Ireland need to be very, very proud of, is that your government took the lead very quickly. It took its medicine fast. And it allowed for people to become aware of what was coming. And it proved the safety of the people first. And from an outsider looking in, I think that was very good. Anyway, back to what I was saying. This virus is serious and we couldn’t let it get us down. So I decided to get up every day with the view that I was going to do some work, and I did, but I’d find my mind drifting, I just couldn’t concentrate. But by now I have managed to have got through a lot of different things and to get myself really focused.

To be honest with you, I had to discipline myself, I had to make myself, take myself out of the context of this ‘as a holiday period’, and try to do things saying ‘are these things we are doing going to be beneficial to us for when we come out of this pandemic’. So, Lisa and I worked hard to try to make sure that we had a business to go back to by looking at every possible opportunity available…so that we could avail of any grants that the government was giving out to help us with the banks and things like that. And because we’re like every, other business, we didn’t have a bucket of funds sitting there that we could just live off through this. So for me, it was a struggle. IH: How did you feel about lockdown in your own home?

Paul: I was ok with it after a short time, because as you probably know, I’m a bit of an oddball anyway, I like my own company. I like to spend a lot of my time on my own. I mean, I spend all day with clients. So for me, being with Lisa and my two girls was not a problem. At home I also had my dolly-head, my scissors, and my kit! Everyday, I went out for my 45 minute run, Lisa and I walked the dogs every other day. I read some great books, I watched some great box sets, I listened to brilliant music. Been inactive, you know, from a routine perspective is not good. But you know, I did enjoy the idea of waking up in the morning and not having to go to work, so I made the most of it. And I think it’s like this: This, Corona Virus is a very divisive disease. You know, if you’ve got a comfortable house and you can afford to feed yourself, it was okay. But there are a lot of very unfortunate people that didn’t have any of those things. And I think for me, it’s about taking stock of what we can do, even if it’s short term, and actually feel very grateful because I think some people thought that it was a prison to them. So for me, I think it was kind of learning life lessons during that time. As I said, at the very beginning, I always feel very lucky, I’ve been a very lucky person all my life. You really only have to look at my wife to know and see how lucky and happy I am! IH: So how did you focus?

Paul: The one thing I would say is that before lockdown, I did a really beautiful project for DENMAN in Dublin, we shot it in a beautiful disused tenement building on Henrietta Street. While we were on the first lockdown, we’ve managed to edit and finish that with our filmmaker Jim Crone and photographer Lee Mitchell. So that was

exciting. That kept me motivated then! One of the things I must say is that I work with an amazing team of people who are incredibly mature and articulate, and understanding, and they know what we’re going through too. So I relied on them to keep me up and they relied on us. We have a WhatsApp group, and we contacted each other, we’d talk about things, they’d ask me questions that they didn’t have the answers to. And sometimes I’d test things them out on things. For example, one of the big things at the moment is home hairdressing! Some Hairdressers were still going to people’s houses and doing hair during lockdown. And anybody who follows me on Facebook, or Instagram, they know how I feel about that. I think it’s suicide. It’s a loaded gun. I think that clients who were asking people to do this should be ashamed of themselves. I ran these things past my own team, and said listen, guys, you know, this is Russian Roulette, don’t do it. And I think the support that I’ve got from our team, our clients, and our friends, express it clearly, it just has to be about keeping people safe. IH: I totally agree with you. We must be professional and realistic and wait for the science to tell us when it is safe. How do you feel about North and South of the island at the moment and how we will get through the pandemic?

Paul: Think about this, we’ve always felt, you know, north or south of Ireland. Well, Ireland is Ireland and when people ask me, where are you from, I say, I’m an Irish Hairdresser, right, that is it. And it’s obviously because of my connections and also because my relationships with all the great hairdressers, all over Ireland. When I was brought back into the Irish hairdressing family around 2012, by David Donnellan of Alfaparf, it blew my mind just how brilliant, the industry has become in the south, not creatively, because it was always a creative hub. But the business side, they know how to run a business. They know they’ve got great acumen and they understand what the client wants, what the business needs are. And we’ve learned a lot from that. And my relationship with ALFAPARF particularly David Donellan, has meant that I’ve been able to bring that business knowledge back and use for our own business what I’ve been given very freely and with great love.. So I think when it comes to the current climate crisis, the Hairdressing industry on the island of Ireland IS united. But the point I’m making is, I like this industry, it has given me a life I could never have dreamed of. So, I feel very grateful. And I took the time to take stock of my life and my business. I think the pandemic will change us all.

Everyone needs to be more aware how to be kinder, a bit more honest, a bit more truthful. But I, also feel that there is a big price to pay for what is going on in the world, we should be a little bit more thoughtful, for other less fortunate people. IH: I agree totally.,

Paul: Well, 2020 was going to be a very busy year, because I was going to spend a lot of time with Alfaparf. The Denman Story is a more historical thing, the managing director of Denman, was a client of mine in the 80’s before he joined Denman. One day when he came in for a haircut, he said, “Have you ever heard of a Denman Brush?” I said ‘Yes of course, there isn’t a hairdresser who doesn’t use a Denman brush!.” Ok he said then ‘I’m going to take a job with them! When I did my first show for them and they came to me afterwards to ask would I be interested in doing more platform work for them on Andrew Collenge recommendation. And I have been with them ever since. In 2008, they made me their Global Director and it has been an amazing journey for me with them. So even though I’ve got this title, there are hundreds and hundreds of hairdressers who they absolutely give everything they can to, but they’re not obviously the size the bigger companies. But for a tools company, what they’ve done for the industry and how they respect the craft, is unprecedented by another company to give everything back. So I’m really, really proud to be associated with them. IH: and your story with Alfaparf?

Paul: The Alfaparf situation is completely different. David, literally gave me a lifeline. I mean, in 2012 our company bankrupt. And that’s all being talked about before. But we literally didn’t have anyone who wanted to know us, or was interested in us then. David approached me and said “You know, you have a legacy, a history, and we thought we could really benefit from someone with your experience, and with the opportunity to work with you”. Lisa took the Alfaparf colors in to the salon and she said they were great colours.! And I said, Okay lets do it. The first thing David asked me to do was a show for him at the Alfaparf Fantastic Hairdresser Awards, which blew my mind. I’ve never seen anything like that in my life. It

was and is an unbelievable event. And David is just so honest, everything he says, he just tells the truth. He doesn’t bullshit or dangles a carrot. It’s a very modest kind of estimation, and sincere sense of ‘we can do this together’. Since then, My team and I have traveled the world on behalf of ALFAPARF. I’ve met some amazing people. And again, I’m lucky, I’ve had that opportunity. I think he literally is the unspoken champion of the industry. And I think one of the things I would say, I know a lot of great industry names. I mean, there’s some brilliant people who aren’t connected with Alfaparf or Xpert Professional and they all think the same thing about David. I mean, that’s just a testament of a true industry leader I think, and the the ‘Academia’ in Dublin is one of my favorite places to work in. IH: Yes, I think David has great passion for the industry as a whole. Any advice to those who struggle with lockdown?

Paul: First of all, I think this is one thing that hairdressers are short of in their lives, the one thing that we never have is TIME. And we are always talking about what we would do if we had the time. And then suddenly, we had TIME. I think the internet is great to connect people. I’ve made brilliant friends on Facebook, Instagram etc. that, and the amount of free hair education that has been given away in the last 12 months is amazing and 13

Talent is an amazing thing, but its hard work. But talent without hard work is pointless. They only work brilliantly when they work together

generous. Hairdressers suddenly had time to sit down and watch a genius to do haircut, watch somebody do a great upstyle. Log on to a quick business course. Explore the computers and the systems that you always wanted to have in your salon, and actually work it out to suit yourself. It was nice to have time to actually think about all the things that you could do to improve your business, your craft and your skills. Because here’s the thing, now that the lockdown is lifted here in the North we are busy. Everyone wants their hair done, and we have the opportunity to make a distinct difference to peoples lives.

competition is on the internet doing the research to be better than you!

In my shows and seminars, I get a lot of credit, and a lot of beautiful things said about my work. But you know, I’m not an educator, I’m a hairdresser. I’ve always been a hairdresser. I am not a teacher, and the things that I’ve learned, probably like you, I’ve learned by making mistakes. Think of mistakes you have made and work out why they didn’t work.

IH: Whats you view now being back at work?

IH: Do you want to talk a little about your calibrations

Paul: Yes during lockdown, I also touched base with collaborators. I’ve just done a deal with Doug Palmer who is an amazing haircutter, and a very good friend of mine, and together we will work on the Global Precision Hair Cutting Competition. You are going to love that because it’s all about precision. And I’ve also touched base with all great model agencies, stylists, photographers and people who I have always wanted to work with but never really had the time. So there’s a lot of good stuff coming ahead. My advice to anybody is if you have time on your hands don’t just watch daytime TV, remember this - your

One thing I would say to anybody ‘Talent is an amazing thing, but its hard work. But talent without hard work is pointless. They only work brilliantly when they work together’. I know loads of really, really hard working hairdressers and they are much, much more successful than talented hairdressers. And I think that those kids out there who think they can get away with just a new pair of scissors, and a bright white smile, they are wrong”.

Paul: “ going back to work for me was not just about opening my salon doors for Business, it’s about restarting my life , going back to use all my skills experience and time into the progression and development of our brand as we navigate this new world , and although like everyone we have reservations about what this new landscape will look like , we have learnt a lot from the last year to indicate that there is a willingness and desire by clients and staff alike to preserve the energy , tradition and culture of hair salons on our streets and towns .....we are not part of the just eats /Deliveroo world where quality is second to convenience....we are the backbone to the community and provide destination locations that benefit not only our business but surrounding businesses...... we are going back to once again reignite our beautiful relationships with our clients and team and reiterate Why salons matter “ Paul: Stay safe everybody. Bye!

SAITAI for Denman

Saitai is a modern love story set in the historical setting of Dublin’s Henrietta Street. It takes inspiration from the Irish capital’s progressive attitude towards equality, acceptance and individuality, with a nod to the historical past of this great old city. SAITAI captures the essence and flavor of a resurgent melting pot of influences and inspirations in art, style and cultural differences.

Hair: Stafford Art Team Photography: Lee Mitchell Make-up: DJ Griffin Styling: Sarah O’Neill Products: Denman

Liam Byrne M.I.T. By Anita Kirby L.T.T.S. Trichology Ireland.

Lam Byrne is a member of the Institute of Trichologists (IOT), which is the oldest association of Trichologists in the world, established in 1902. He was honored recently by being elected as the first Irish person to hold the position of Vice Chairman of the Institute of Trichologists. This will be a two year position before he will become the Chairman for the Institute of Trichologists. This is a great achievement and we congratulate him. Liam’s father Robert Byrne was a renowned hairdresser who had superior knowledge and passion of all aspects of hair and scalp issues. Robert formulated his own products and at an early age Liam helped his dad to bottle these formulas. Liam had a great love for science and at every opportunity read his father’s enormous collection of science books. There was no internet and computers in Robert’s time of course so these science books have been an invaluable resource to Liam. His interest in the formulation of products, after seeing their results, just grew and grew to this day so much that Liam formulates and supplies his own products to treat different hair and scalp conditions too. Liam began his training in AnCo Training Centre in Beresford Place, Dublin. During his time there he had the opportunity to meet Leo Palladino, a well-known author of many hairdressing and science books who was there to discuss the topic of Trichology and this set the seed for Liam’s future career.Liam continued his studies in hairdressing and worked at Robert Byrnes where he qualified as a hairdresser. In 1984, he started his studying with the Institute of Trichology in London. In 1985 he was offered a job in the Trichology Department of Molton Brown Hairdressing Salon in London and moved to London. This enabled him to continue his Trichology studies at the London College of Fashion and the Institute’s Hair and Scalp Hospital. In 1987 he qualified as an associate member of the Institute

of Trichologists and in 1990 became a full member. Now over 31 years since he returned to Navan he is running a very successful hair salon and Trichology Clinic. As a Trichologist, Liam understands the negative effects that scalp and hair can have on a client’s physical and mental well-being and is motivated in not just helping clients deal with these issues, but also in educating them about how best to take care and prevent these issues in the future. As Vice Chairman of the Institute of Trichologists he is currently working to get the members Institute of Trichologists recognized by the Professional Standards Authority. This would ensure that the correct standard of Trichology is recognized, as many people today are trading under the title of Hair and Scalp specialists with little or no education or training and in some instances misdiagnosing conditions and giving totally the wrong advice.

Liam Byrne Trichology Clinic 5 Belfry view Church Hill Navan T: 046 9021176/9071100 www.robertbyrnehairdressing.ie 16

https://trichologists.org.uk Providing Qualified Professional Opinion and Guidance through the services of its registered members.

MAKE THE HAIR RE-BLOOM.

#LOVEYOURSCALP FOR FULLER AND HEALTHY-LOOKING HAIR ALL YEAR ROUND.

ALFAPARFMILANO.COM

ALOPECIA

The 3 Main Causes of Hair Loss W I L F L E E S O N , Director of Trichology Scotland and Director of Rainbow Room International

eathy hair starts from within and it’s so important when talking to client’s about their hair and scalp health, that you discuss with them not only looking after the exterior of their hair with good quality products, such as the ALTERNA Clinical Denisfying range to target thinning hair, but also looking after their hair from within – living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, getting enough sleep and having the right nutrient and mineral intake.

Iron for example is crucial in avoiding hair shedding and is important for helping carry oxygen through your body as part of red blood cells and stimulating growth in hair. Vitamin D, Folic Acid/B9 and B12 are also beneficial nutrients in helping support cell division and hair growth and Vitamin D is also effective in reducing inflammation. Below are some of the most common causes of hair loss and ways in which as hairdressers, you can identify if your client may need to visit a Trichologist.

Looking after their hair from within – living a healthy lifestyle, exercising, getting enough sleep and having the right nutrient and mineral intake

EXCESSIVE HAIR SHEDDING

(Telogen Effluvium Anagen Effluvium) – when follicles are prematurely triggered into a shedding phase – a normal rate is 10% but this can increase up to 35% with premature shedding. Common triggers for this are iron deficiency, stress and anxiety, change in medication or change in diet and also post pregnancy. (Post-partum hair loss). If your client mentions any of these triggers whilst in the salon, they may have excessive hair shedding, which can be helped with the intake of iron – a 15/35mg of supplement is a recommended amount per day and it’s important that client’s do not overload on this. The key is constant use of low levels.

MINIATURISATION HORMONAL

a process known as ‘miniaturisation’, whereby hormones interact with a follicle and cause it to gradually shrink until it eventually disappears. Unlike excessive hair shedding and scarring alopecia, which can happen very fast, this cause of hair loss can happen over years. This hair loss can happen through the follicles being sensitive to dihydrotestosterone (DHT) made from testosterone, causing hair loss in men and male pattern baldness. As this is a cause that can happen over some time, it’s important that your client tries to see a Trichologist as soon as possible. Trichologists will be able to recommend medicine or treatment that can slow down the rate of loss and to help stimulate the scalp and hair follicles.

SCARRING ALOPECIA – AUTOIMMUNE

when the body’s own immune system mistakenly attacks its own cell tissue causing temporary or permanent hair loss. As this can result in permanent hair loss, it’s incredibly important that the client sees a Trichologist about this type of hair loss to identify if it is temporary or permanent. A Trichologist will be able to analyse if the skin tissue has been destroyed and if follicles are able to re-grow in this area or not and provide the best advice/treatment to the client. As a hairdresser, it’s important to notice signs of these with your client and know when the right time to recommend a Trichologist is. If something doesn’t seem right with the client’s hair, there is a lot more hair being seen in their brush or in the shower, or if they have a tingling or burning feeling scalp or more skin in their scalp than normal, these are all warning signs and when a client may look to see a Trichologist to examine their hair and be able to provide a solution or suitable treatment if possible. With all of these hair causes, it’s important your client sees a reputable Trichologist to ensure the right treatment is provided – particularly in terms of scarring alopecia and miniaturisation, which can be permanent. Trichologists are also highly trained in how to communicate with clients who are suffering from these types of hair loss. As hairdresser’s, our goal is to make client’s look and feel fantastic when leaving the salon but as a Trichologist, there is a more emotional and intense side of the job, where we need to investigate the causes of the hair loss and be prepared to have sensitive/more emotional talks with the client.

A visit to a doctor first for a blood test is recommended in order to diagnose the blood count and to determine if there are underlining medical problems

The Wella Professionals

TrendVision Award

The Wella Professionals TrendVision Award has become one of the most iconic hair competitions in the hairdressing calendar and for 2021 there’s a whole new layer to the competition to ensure it’s more dynamic than ever before. Wella will run three inspirational virtual events, each 45-minutes long on 8th June (3pm) and 9th and 10th June (7pm). Events will feature model presentations from Wella Artists as they demonstrate their interpretation of specific TrendVision Award categories in a step-by-step format. Expect interviews with TVA judges and past winners, as well as the announcement of the Photographic Winners. The event will be hosted by Wella’s Fergal Doyle and awardwinning hairdresser, Melissa Timperley, who will be delivering an action-packed line-up each day. Maxine McArthur and Darren Waterfall from MW Education and Charlie Taylor will be sharing education specifically geared towards students. Colour experts Robert Eaton and HOB’s Jake Unger and Warren Boodaghian will be sharing exclusive education talking all things colour, whilst editorial hair experts James Earnshaw and Michelle Thompson will be sharing their expertise and know-how in an exciting education session. The live events are also an opportunity to gain an exclusive behind-the-scenes insight into TVA 2020 gold winners’ collection shoot, which was mentored by multi-award-winning hairdressers from D&J Ambrose, Darren Ambrose and Clayde Baumann, and industry photographer and Wella Top Artist Kai Wan, from Pkai Hair. In addition to the exciting line up, each event will celebrate the winners of the photographic stage. Expect plenty of

entertainment and excitement throughout; everyone is welcome to join, especially those that would like an insight into the world of TrendVision. After that…What’s next? There will be a digital semi-final, with plans for a live final in October 2021. Colour Artist, Craft Artist, Colour Specialist and Xposure will compete live at the TrendVision Award 2021 UK & Ireland Final, Editorial Look, Style Master and Natural Texture Artist will submit their final entry digitally. However, a winner and runner up for each category will be announced at the live final at the Roundhouse, London on Monday 11th October (subject to government guidelines). The TrendVision journey is supported by an incredible online resource where all the information and inspiration you need is available at www.wella.co.uk/trendvision TrendVision Award winners will receive some incredible moneycan’t-buy prizes, and it’s not just the actual winners who will benefit. The salon owners will win a business education packages. In addition, the winners of Colour Artist, Colour Specialist and Craft Artist, Editorial Look, Style Master and Natural Texture Artist categories will have the chance to participate at the International TrendVision Award.

To sign up for this exclusive event head to www.wella.co.uk/trendvision 20

Days2Grow

Challenge

Phorest Salon Software has launched the 2021 edition of it’s hugely popular 30Days2Grow challenge for salon and spa professionals, with a new upbeat spin for summer 2021. Building on the success of last year’s QuaranTEAM Edition which saw thousands of salons globally take part in daily tasks, this year’s challenge has been reimagined for the new era as the Thrive Edition! With a distinct lack of Covid-related tasks or pandemic talk, the theme is centred around positivity, wellness and brings together all aspects of running a salon business in a free 30-day challenge. The daily challenge will be kicking off on Tuesday 1st June for those that sign up, with registration now open and free to all on www.phorest.com Registrants can expect to be delivered bite-sized tasks everyday for 30 days to help focus on the future, minus the intensive workload of a long-term strategy. They will also be invited to take part in Win Wednesdays! throughout the month of June. This new give back element of the challenge will see one lucky participant walk away with a Salon Success Bundle courtesy of Phorest, consisting of a brand new iPad, private coaching with an industry’s top experts and a cash prize of €1,000! “We know how much of a rollercoaster running a salon is, especially at the moment,” said Phorest’s CEO Ronan Perceval. “Trying to think long term and strategize when it feels like there is barely time in the day to take a lunch break can be daunting and, quite frankly, off-putting for

Open and Free to all so many business owners. This challenge is designed to break down things we all want to be working on into really easy-to-tackle tasks. They will only take a small amount of time each day but cumulatively, they add up to meaningful work that can have a big impact on a salon’s success.” With daily themes, each individual who signs up for free will receive weekly emails with links to the week ahead’s challenges. With every base covered from Marketing Monday to Teamwork Tuesday, Think Digital Thursday and even a Self-Care Saturday, each piece of the challenge will be delivered ahead of time so participants can be prepared. And with lots of supporting educational content in audio, video and written form, those that want to take their business focus to the next level can continue their work. “Setting the discipline to take even 5 minutes a day to focus on your business can be really hard to do alone,” reinforced Perceval. “By joining a movement like this where you know other people are going through the same things, and there are people available to have your back, can make all the difference.” 30Days2Grow is now in its fourth year and has built momentum from a small campaign to a much anticipated global digital challenge for all salon owners. With thousands of salons taking part every year, the focus is on giving step by step tasks that feed into business success for every participant. Here’s what previous participants have had to say:

C vid 19 The Impact of

and the KEY supports required to ensure future sustainability

The Hair and Beauty Industry Confederation (HABIC) wrote to the Government to highlight the devastating impact of Covid-19 on the sector across every county in Ireland. It outlines the key supports needed to ensure the future sustainability of the sector where many businesses are challenged to remain as a viable going concern and which are further challenged by a huge increase in black market trading. The impact on trading and the many small business in the sector throughout Ireland has been very serious. Salons have just opened after 25 weeks closed in 2021. The year on year comparison for 2020 against the previous years’ trading shows a stark impact of the virus. HABIC has 2,500 members throughout Ireland and overall there are 9031 businesses in the sector. Economist Jim Power has produced a report for HABIC that highlights the impact of the pandemic on the sector and the numerous measures required to ensure it is sustained into the future. The economic value or GDP contribution of the sector in 2019 was €2,624 Margaret O’Rourke Doherty, CEO of HABIC

and only apply to registered legitimate businesses. By giving a tax credit to customers, clients would be enticed back to the salons; this would provide support to struggling businesses seeking to re-build; and it would help divert business away from non-legitimate operators who make no contribution to the Exchequer. The scheme should not be made available until 8 weeks after the salons are allowed re-open.

million in 2019, reduced to €1,740 million in 2020. In 2019 the industry provided 30,800 jobs and 18,480 indirectly; with these numbers reduced to 27,000 direct jobs and 16,200 indirect jobs in 2020, and decreasing. Margaret O’Rourke Doherty, CEO of HABIC, said: “While we recognise public health and safety is the priority, our sector has been disproportionality penalised. Since the outbreak of Covid-19 and from a total of 6.8 million services, there have only been seven outbreaks identified in the sector. We have outlined a number of measures that will have the dual impact maintaining a viable sector and at the same time protecting taxpayers in the face of a burgeoning black market trade.”

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HABIC believes that the EWSS scheme should remain in place for the hair and beauty sector until at least the end of 2021, and possibly to the middle of 2022, depending on the evolution of the COVIDrelated restrictions on the sector. As employers must possess valid tax clearance to enter the EWSS and continue to maintain tax clearance for the duration of the scheme, this will further help legitimate businesses compete against non-legitimate businesses.

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Legitimate hair and beauty businesses were forced to shut down in the interests of public health. Unfortunately, many of those businesses are left with a legacy of accumulate rents, commercial rates, tax liabilities, and bank interest costs. If those businesses are to re-start and become viable again, it is essential that reliefs are extended to the end of 2021.

“Our members account for thousands of employees with a significant presence in every town and village in Ireland who provide an essential service to the community. This is a crucial time for the sector and the communities who we provide our services to. It is essential that we are allowed to properly trade into the future,” she said. Economist, Jim Power said: “COVID-19 has demonstrated the importance of hair and beauty services in Irish life, from a social, economic, and mental health perspective. Following the closure of these businesses in March 2020, and the subsequent varying levels of restrictions, the financial impact on the operators has been very severe, but the impact on the national psyche has been equally severe.” There are a number of key supports required to ensure the future sustainability of the hair and beauty sectors in Ireland. These are:  The 9 per cent VAT rate should become permanent. In addition, Government needs to do whatever it takes to extend the lower VAT rate to the beauty sector. This would help the legitimate operators compete against the non-legitimate operators and undermine the black economy in beauty and hairdressing services. 

One of the challenges for the sector when it is allowed re-open will be to attract clients back who have migrated to non-legitimate operators. A ‘stay and spend’ type scheme should be introduced sector

 As hair and beauty businesses are now open, the costs are significant. These include further investment in PPE; Rapid Antigen Testing; the high fixed and variable costs in running a business under conditions of serious restrictions; and staffing problems. The sector needs to be given a meaningful once-off grant payment to enable them to re-open in a sustainable way. The grant should be equivalent to 50 per cent of commercial rates in 2019, subject to a minimum payment of €3,000.

HABIC is a non-profit, national organisation designed to support and enhance the sustainable development of the Irish Hair and Beauty industry. It is a progressive and transformative organisation working on behalf of its members to deliver a comprehensive action plan which ensures the voice and needs of the industry are recognised by all stakeholders. www.habic.ie

TRICHOLOGY IRELAND REGISTERED CLINIC Anita Kirby L.L.T.S. Managing Director of Trichology Ireland

Anita Kirby is a qualified Trichologist, Hair & Scalp Consultant & Laser Specialist and prides herself in her professional and personal service to her clientele. Treatments available at the Trichology Ireland clinic are for clients suffering with: Post Chemotherapy and Radiation Therapy Hair Loss, Telogen or Anagen Effluvium, Alopecia Areata, Trichotillomania, Folliculitis decalvans, Psoriasis, Itchy Scalp, Postpartum Hair Loss, Alopecia Barbae, Androgenic Alopecia, Hair Thinning, Excessive Oily Scalp, Dry Hair and Scalp. Hair Casts, Post Covid Scalp Sensitivity and Post Covid Hair Loss. At her Clinic Anita carries out a full professional diagnostic microscopic consultation to assess the treatment most suitable for her male and female clients. This is an essential first step to insuring that the correct treatment plan is chosen and factual personalised advice given to start her client’s journey. Anita is happy to have added the new Actyva Oxygen Concentrator to her services. This is a state of the art exclusive treatment for patients that need transdermal oxygen therapy to stimulate the hair follicle and inhibit hair loss. Anita can be contacted for appointments and referrals on: hairandscalpspecialist@gmail.com Anita Kirby L.T.T.S. is a fully registered Trichologist with the Trichological Society of London

The Trichological Society is an independent, autonomous, professional body with an international reputation. TTS is dedicated to orthodox hair sciences and hair specialism’s. It has been providing academic standard distance learning Trichology courses to dedicated and tenacious students from medical and non-medical backgrounds – worldwide for 20 years in its resolve to promote and uphold high standards of practice within the discipline of Trichology based on sound science. It aims to unite the various professions involved with human hair in health, diseased or distressed circumstances. www.hairscientists.org

CLINICAL DENSIFYING Powerful haircare and scalp solutions for thicker, fuller hair. www.alternahaircare.com

@alternaeurope

PRODUCTS O LA P L E X N o . 8

Vegan, colour-safe and free from sulphates, phthalates, parabans and gluten free OLAPLEX No.8 Bond Intense Moisture Mask is the latest addition to the OLAPLEX range and is expected to be a game-changer. This highlyconcentrated 4-in-1 reparative mask provides intense moisture and hydration to treat and smooth damaged hair adding shine and body in just 10 minutes. It is infused with patented OLAPLEX Bond Building technology and restores damaged and compromised hair by repairing from the inside out. The airless pump easily dispenses one application at a time. Start with one pump for shoulder-length hair. Use more for longer, thicker hair and less for fine or short hair. Simply apply to clean, damp hair from the mid-length to ends. Use sparingly on the roots. Work through with fingers. Leave on for 10 minutes. Rinse fully and style as usual. Use weekly for best results and prepare to be amazed! Available from Xpert Professional

SCALP RENEW

Strenghtens, Redensiﬁes, Stimulates The Semi de Lino RENEW by AlfaParf Milano range for hair loss strengthens, redensifies, and stimulates to enable the scalp and hair fibre to regain balance, strength and body. RENEW contains a Biorenew Complex comprising a blend of natural ingredients that prolong the life of the follicle and increase its vitality and a new Microbiotic System which is a mix of probiotics and prebiotics for scalp balance. The range comprises three Energizing products:

Energizing Low Shampoo - sulphate-free and developed for weakened hair that is prone to hair loss. It gently cleanses and gives vitality to the hair fibre. Energizing Lotion – an intensive energising treatment for weakened hair prone to hair loss, with a refreshing effect sensation

Energizing Tonic – an energising and rebalancing tonic to maintain the optimal state of the scalp with a refreshing effect sensation. 26

S E R I O X YL

Hypoallergenic: Treat, Cleanse & Thicken L’Oréal Professionnel Serioxyl is a range of 5 innovative products specifically designed to Treat, Cleanse & Thicken Hair. The Serioxyl Denser Hair Treatment is a professional super serum suitable for very fine or thinning hair, or hair loss. It is formulated with ingredients Stemoxydine™ (after 25 years of research it has proven to awaken the dormant follicles to create new hair) and Resveratrol™, (shown to protect against oxidative stress). The formula is a daily cure that improves hair density in as little as 6 weeks. Serioxyl Thicker Hair is an everyday hair thickening super serum. It is used on the lengths of hair to leave hair fiber looking thicker. (Enriched with Intra-Cylane™ to notice an immediate improvement to the thickness of hair). Intra-Cylane ™ a thickening molecule born of ten years’ research to reveal hair that looks thicker and appears fuller to the touch.

Scalp to Hair Vegan, Sulphide Free. Paraben Free

‘Scalp to Hair’ by NAK are Australian Salon exclusive products. They Features Natural Vegan Ingredients, Luxe Botanicals, and Pure Essential Oils which provide beautiful hair rituals that respect the delicate nature of hair and skin. This essential balance ensures that they can create beautiful products of the highest standard, that respect the delicate nature of hair and skin. Sulphate Free. Paraben Free. Energise & Moisture Thinning Kits: Nourish, invigorate and rejuvenate follicles to assist in the prevention of thinning hair. Energise is ideal for natural, oily, fine & thinning hair and Moisture is ideal for chemically-treated thinning hair: Mineral Defence Treatment: Cool and invigorating spray designed to rejuvenate thinning hair follicles.Spray from root to tip. Targeted for noticeable thin areas; hairline, crown, part line, bald spots and thinning patches.

CAVIAR

Anti Aging Clinical Densifying ALTERNA products are formulated without harsh chemicals and additives. CAVIAR Anti-Aging Clinical Densifying collection was created specifically to meet the needs of the fine and thinning hair consumer. This line includes Shampoo, Scalp Treatment, Styling Mousse and a revolutionary new Foam Conditioner. The core densifying regime has been proven through in-salon use, to help improve the scalp’s natural barrier and has been found to significantly improve hair texture, thickness and condition. The new Foam Conditioner has been designed to increase volume and density to make hair appear fuller. Fine and thinning hair along with hair loss is a concern of many consumers globally. ALTERNA has built its Clinical Densfying collection upon two key insights gained directly from women with thinning hair: they want a range of styling options and they want solutions that build fullness and thickness by improving hair density from the scalp up. Available from Xpert Professional Haircare.

Available from Xpert Professional Haircare 27

SANDALORE

Anti-loss hair serum that thickens hair from its first use. Introducing Sandalore by Nioxin: After many years in development, the scientists at Nioxin believe they have a completely unique hair loss reduction formula, containing Sandalore™ (a synthetic Sandalwood fragrance), Caffeine, Lauric Acid, and Niacinamide. According to research published by leading scientists*, the Sandalore™ scent, (which is a synthetic version of sandalwood) can be smelt by the olfactory receptors in hair follicles. The Sandalore™ scent, stimulates the hair follicles and as a result prolongs hair growth. The time it takes for hair to fall is delayed, which means hair loss is reduced. Nioxin Anti-Hair Loss Serum is best applied daily directly to the scalp, on dry or damp hair. Simply massage in and do not rinse out. NIOXIN’S range of care and styling products are designed specifically for thinning and fine hair. The brand has the support of the Institute of Trichologists - the foremost professional association for the study and science of hair in the world.

ACID WASH ACV Cleansing Rinse Introducing ACID WASH by R&Co. Sometimes you need to strip things down and get back to your natural state. After days of dry shampoo layers and styling products, ACID WASH is perfect to cleanse without stripping away natural oils or color. It softens the hair, calms the scalp, and adds dramatic shine after just 1-3 minutes left on the hair before rinsing. Fragrance: Relative Paradise Benefit Ingredients: • Apple Fruit Extract (ACV): Protects hair and scalp from damage and acts as a natural exfoliant. Contains compounds that soothe and moisturize the the scalp while strengthening hair and adding a healthy looking sheen. • Aloe Vera Leaf Juice: Adds strength and luster to hair. Helps hair retain moisture. • Tamanu Seed Oil: Brimming with essential fatty acids and nutrients. Promotes an optimal scalp environment. Strengthens hair, seals in moisture and restores vitality to dull hair. Available from Xpert Professional Haircare.

Safe, Gentle, Pure for Baby Little Green products are as close to nature as you can be. They are formulated without sulphates, parabens or gluten. Hypoallergenic and clinically tested. All natural fragrants. Little Green packaging are BPA and phthalate free. Available from Xpert Professional Haircare.

What’s New…

ACTYVA - OXYGEN CONCENTRATOR Numerous studies on aging have shown that what speeds up the aging process is the decreased blood flow to tissues, which is caused by aging itself. It is a sort of vicious cycle that once triggered feeds upon itself, speeding up and amplifying collagen and elastin fibre degradation processes. Collagen and elastin are essential for the integrity of skin. The number of active capillaries decreases with time. To compensate for the lower oxygen supply, the upper layers of human skin draw it from the external environment, where, due to pollution and sedentary lifestyles, there is increasingly less oxygen available. A number of researchers from the Berlin University Clinic have shown that supplementing pure oxygen through the skin helps to re-vascularise tissue and reactivate the skin’s metabolic activity, thus fighting against aesthetic degradation. In addition, transdermal oxygen infusion amplifies the effect of the functional ingredients while the specific products to be used act as antioxidants, reducing oxidative stress. This synergy produces numerous advantages in the cosmetic and hair fields: it stimulates microcirculation, increases the absorption of active ingredients, and boosts the effectiveness of treatments for the main skin and hair disorders. Oxygen technology transforms every treatment into a very pleasurable experience of well-being and represents a new professional, innovative and impactful system of working that increases customer loyalty and sales. Some results are visible right from the first session but a full treatment cycle will stabilize them. Therefore, we recommend performing treatment cycles, offering them in packages of 6 or 10 sessions according to the disorder to be treated and desired results.

Actyva Oxygen Concentrator, is a tested and certified medical device used for patients in need of oxygen therapy and modified in accordance with the law for cosmetic and hair treatment use (the accessories for respiratory support have been replaced with the airbrush gun for transdermal supply of oxygen). Its internal functions are based on two cylinders: the air from the environment is drawn and passes through the first cylinder, which is filled with zeolite, a very porous mineral that has the ability to retain nitrogen. This creates a reserve of oxygen that is blown in the airbrush through the second cylinder, ensuring a constant supply of high concentration oxygen (90-96%) with a flow rate of approximately 5 litres per minute. The CE Mark for medical devices guarantees up to 96% concentration of oxygen. The high concentration of oxygen ensures a higher performing result in less time. The supply of oxygen is guaranteed through a high-quality, precision airbrush that creates a fine spray of the specific product the stylist has selected and poured into the ampoule before beginning the treatment.

Increasing your prices can be nerve-wracking at any time of the year, but coming out of the lockdown it’s like a doubleedged sword of realism and expectation, according to Matrix Artist, Terry Longden. Some salons are nervous about raising their prices after lockdown as their confidence has taken ‘a bit of a beating’ with months of no work, income and communication, therefore fear that a price rise could alienate clients at a time when you need them to return! “I think the opposite is true. It’s really important to raise our prices at the moment because we all still have bills and commitments that have been mounting and once we have

sorted out the tsunami of returning clients there will be a lull before bookings start to balance themselves out. This is not the time for discounts or offers. “We should all take into account that we now have added costs of PPE, raised bills - whether it’s from utilities and/or salon suppliers - combined with one client at a time and longer appointments to avoid too much traffic in the salon decreases a salon’s usual income. “I raised my prices and it wasn’t as controversial as you might think. I personally communicated this information with my clients when booking them in for the return of business, explaining that for me to continue my care for their hair and rising external costs, a small annual price review will be the future norm.”

Terry’s top tips for increasing your prices if you haven’t already done so:

1 30

NEVER apologise for knowing your worth. Explain the reasons for the increase as a goal to continue to create a professional and safe environment to provide an expert service, professional products and advice.

If you’ve decided not to increase your prices at this point in time it would probably be an opportunity to pre-empt the subject for a later date in the year as you will need to address the financial shortfall sooner or later.

Be realistic and open with your clients – prices everywhere have gone up, so explain to them that you have had to purchase extra PPE, have restrictions on amount of people in the salon and rent and bills have increased. They won’t be surprised and most will be happy to pay a small increase

A N TOINETTE BEEND ER S One of the World’s finest Hairdressers & Global Ambassador for Avada IH: How did you career start?

Antoinette: I’m originally Dutch, and I started my career at 14 serving teas and coffees and progressed from that. By the time I was 18 I was a managing the salon. I went to a ‘Trevor Sorbie’ show in Holland and after seeing it, I knew exactly what I wanted for my career; - I wanted to work for Trevor Sorbie! So I went to London for an interview, and they actually refused me because I didn't speak much English at that time! I said “I'm coming back, whether you like it or not, you know”, I did eventually return and Trevor said ‘I have seen you before?” “Yes”, I said “and this time I’m not leaving until you take me on!” And he did! IH: Brilliant! I’m glad you did that!

Antoinette: Yes! It did mean that I had to completely start again as when I arrived to the House of Sorbie it was very different type of hairdressing than the training I got, it was very avant garde. Trevor said that they would teach me the Trevor Sorbie way and he would give me a one month trial. After the month I would have to do a test which I failed due to my lack of English! It was a real problem and just too much to cope with in a month. They saw that, but they also saw that I was very hard working and I got all my models from schools, and, you know, they just didn't want let me go. So Trevor said, “We'll put you on the floor as an assistant to a stylist”, and that's what I did for six months and then I did my test again and passed! I remember one of the styles I did was a graduated bob, and I did it perfectly. After that I became a stylist very quickly. Then I became a teacher at Trevor Sorbie because having had to re-learn everything in a different language helped me greatly to teach as I was really good at explaining things. So very quickly I also started to travel and teach for Trevor and I think my

enthusiasm was very good and the result was that the students would return to London for more teaching and to buy our products. It was very, very beneficial for both parties. I felt Trevor was like my Hairdressing Dad and I was part of his family. IH: Let's talk about you winning British Hairdresser of the Year? Antoinette: Yes, I won British Hairdresser of the Year and London Hairdresser of the Year and in 2012 I did a photographic competition on the internet that was an overall Hairdresser of the Year and I won that as well.

IH: I remember that time in London, your name was everywhere. What does your current job with AVEDA involve? And what’s you end goal?

Antoinette: So, I was Creative Director for the AVEDA Corporation for 15 years. My role was all about the Aveda branding and looking after the campaigns, doing store design, making sure the copy and everything was right. Then I realized I really missed the trade so I decided to go back into it. So now I have a very nice role, as my job is simply ‘to inspire people and do some fun things’ In 2019 I did a show in London with Eugene, Sally and Tom in Trevor’s honour as he is an amazing House of Talent. I was also travelling the world judging at Photographic Awards in Spain for example and then of course Covid hit so I just began doing virtual training on line. IH: That’s amazing! What’s that like and how are you coping with Covid?

Antoinette: You know it’s interesting. We were all due to become more visual and because of COVID it has kind of pushed us further and harder. I had to build a studio at my house to work because we can't go anywhere. So

I did training sessions on line and, it's been really good. I've had a fabulous response, I had like 900,000 people on one particular virtual session. It was quite amazing. IH: Wow, that is surely amazing. . AB: I've also created a whole course on styling without blow dryers – called AirDrying. It allows hairstylists to be able to let clients leave the salon fabulous without using a blowdryer on them. There are a lot of new techniques that need to be learned and I also teach curly hair techniques too. IH: Who were your hair heroes, Antoinette? Obviously, Trevor, and where do you look for inspiration?

Antoinette: I'm not really a hero type of person as I've always been a holistic hairdresser. Because for me, it's never just been just about the head, it's the whole imagery of the person. I love photographers and designers and that's what I kind of put my stamp down on in the UK long ago. I was the first hairdresser to photograph models full length because everybody used to do head shots only. And I never believed in that, so for me, it's like hair is the fabric of the body but its only one part of the rest of the body. And even when I get clients today, firstly, I want to see what they're all about, you know, what their lifestyle is like and then create a hairstyle that works for them and is relevant to what they are going to do with it themselves after. That's why I think the whole core elements of the craft is going to come back again. Because if you can't blowdry your own hair, or naturally dry it, then you’ve never have a good haircut! And I think a lot of hairdressers have got away with okay haircuts when they blowdry it afterwards. I believe a haircut needs to still look good when its dry without a good blowdry! I think what we are going back to is people will want really good hairdressing experiences, because even if they can manage their hair themselves now we can give them a really good haircut and a really good color. IH: What fashion designers inspire you the most? Who’s hot?

Antoinette: Oh, there is this amazing guy in Japan at the moment, I am not so good with my Japanese, but his name is Tom or TOMO and he does these really amazing big giant shapes. They are very inspiring and interesting. Of course, I'm a sucker for Tokyo designers they are always amazing. So looking ahead, if anyone has the opportunity to go to Tokyo, that’s where fashion is! You’ll see fashion two years ahead of anywhere else. But you

The whole core elements of the craft is going to come back again. know it's a combination of things like that, that inspire me. I launched a collection where it was all about the design, I called it ‘Revolution of Reinvention’. As we go forward in this world, you know, we are looking at being much more socially responsible, being much more, thoughtful of things like in America, for example, a lot of people buy new cheap t-shirts and then three weeks later they chuck it out. All those things have got to stop, because that's so bad for the environment, and I am a bit of an environmental crusader, that's why I'm very aware, you know, that we should start appreciating things more, and I think COVID has done that for us. What do you think? IH: It's been a great equalizer. It put everybody on the same level and is showing us what we have been doing wrong. Now let’s talk about AVEDA.

Antoinette: AVEDA is more about creating highperformance products, but they are naturally derived. So the other thing I would say is AVEDA is not just a bottle on the shelf, you know, it's a lifestyle. It's like, you know, people that use AVEDA I think they're more aware of their environment. And they'd like to have products that are more sustainable. I'm heavily involved in Aveda front development as well creating styling products. So you know we use the things from nature in order to create high performance, and we're 40 years at it. So we have an incredible technology. And then you mix it with modern technology, and the combination of it is really quite unique. And also the effect of the AVEDA product on hair has a different effect than if you used a chemical based product. Also if you think about all the medicine, right, that are created in the world or have discovered in the world a lot of them come from nature. Hair is nature. So why not have haircare that is inspired by nature and that comes from nature, you know, your hair is something natural? It’s a no brainer. You know, of course, I've drank Cola for many, many years as I don't know any better at that stage but I am a very firm believer and even in my own lifestyle of only organic, you know, I try to be a vegan as much as possible. I'm not miss goody-two-shoes, but

I am trying to be as healthy as I can be. Because you know, as you age a little, you start noticing things quicker if you don't look after yourself and what I do is just being responsible. IH: What were the main differences you found moving from London to America?

Antoinette: London salons are more about passion and fashion, here in the US it’s more about business and is marketing oriented. The salons are bigger here too! I came to America for work and I love it. I have a beautiful lifestyle, but my heart is in London, it’s a very special place for me and I still have my flat there too. The one thing that they do really well here in USA, is that they can take a little thing and make a big giant thing out of it. Hair here is mainly long, some very detailed which is very interesting. I mean, whether I like it or not, is done well but it’s more commercial I would say. You know, you don’t see much short hair here like my haircut yes, it’s a bit unusual here. Like when you walk around New York, you see hair bigger and higher but not short. You see them at hair shows, but you do not see them on the street? IH:. Are you back at work now?

Antoinette: I haven't stopped working. I've just worked from home! So for me, it has made absolutely zero impact apart from I'm not doing any clients. But I don't cut hair every day I cut hair when I'm in New York, in London, or at home. I've been doing a ton of videos though, you know, I've now got models that don't speak back to me now! Mannequins! So it’s kind of nice and it's funny, because it might be my basement, but I've got a whole lineup of different models, different colors, different textures and different shapes. And every day, I’ll do a ‘model casting’ with them and I get the look I want and I put them back in their corner! IH: What can you see industry changing towards?

Antoinette: I think it's going to go back to basics, and I've been saying this for a while even before Covid, I really do think a strong sense of the craft will return with beautiful simplicity that can be appreciated again. I think we've done a lot of fluff in the past with magazines and coffee etc and now it’s time for simply beautiful fashionable hair. You know, we all come into this industry because of our passion. Have communication with them and do your consultation the day before on the phone and visually by zoom if you can. Remember, you only have one chance, just like when they come in that first

time you’ve got to prove yourself all over again. So make sure that you really are 100% ready to make them feel that they are one of your best clients, because one little mistake and they're off because this thing went so long that they don't want to be disappointed. IH: What’s next for you Antoinette:

Antoinette: That's a really good question. I'm really enjoying my role right now. I also think I'm going to enter some awards again, why not! I still have a lot of passion for the industry I've been in for 39 years and I still love it as much as the day I started. I really enjoy sharing my knowledge now with the 70 Aveda Institute’s over here. I speak to new kids that are coming into the industry and tell them what you can do and what you can be. Our industry is the best in the world. I honestly think hairdressers can do anything and I think I'm an example. I was a Dutch girl, 20 years old who moved to London with a goal. And if I can become the senior vice president of a multi-million dollar company I think anyone can do it. I just worked really, really hard and I still do today. IH: Antoinette, you're one of our hair heroes. It was amazing to interview you. Now last words from you Antoinette:

Antoinette: I'm not just saying this, it's honest truth that Irish people always had a very special place in my heart. I even live in Kilburn in London. I was surrounded by Irish people and there's something very special and warm about you. And my latest collection was actually photographed by an Irish photographer, Damian Foxe, who I think is absolutely amazing. So I can't wait to come back to Ireland. I love that country. And I love the people and I mean it. IH: So how do people ﬁnd you?

Antoinette: Just go to Instagram. @ Antoinette Beenders. It’s kind of my news board. I’d love you all to join and dm me. I respond myself so be my guest.

Our industry is the best in the world.

THE

REVOLUTION of REINVENTION

HAIR: Antoinette Beenders USA

PHOTO: Damian Foxe

To ensure that training and development of hairdressing professionals will be formally regulated.

o ensure that training and development of The National Hairdressing Apprenticeship (NHA) is going from strength to strength. As I write, the salons around the country are reopening and the excitement is palpable. Hairdressers of Ireland literally have the country in the palm of their hands as the nation has a new found respect for the hairdressing profession. Not only are the salon telephones hopping, the NHA office is hopping also, with queries from guidance counsellors, students and career changers who want to know how they can pursue a career in hairdressing. The advice to anyone who wants to pursue a career in hairdressing is very clear. If you are a passionate, creative person who is committed to on-going professional development to keep your finger on the pulse of trends and fashion, then an exciting career in hairdressing may just be for you. But passion and creativity is not enough, you must love people! The nation has never been so aware of just how important our hairdressers are. Our hairdressers are with us in good times and in bad, for all the happy occasions but they are also there for us through the hard times. So the message is loud and clear, hairdressing is a unique and special profession and if you want an exciting career

in hairdressing you need to be a passionate, creative, people person! The National Hairdressing Apprenticeship is the only nationally recognised standard for the training and education of hairdressers in Ireland. Graduates of the programme gain a QQI Level 6 Advanced Certificate, which is also recognised internationally. Importantly, to begin an apprenticeship an individual must be officially hired by their employer before they can be registered on the apprenticeship (for apprentice entry requirements go to hairdressingapprenticeship.ie). Any employer who wishes to register an apprentice can submit an expression of interest by simply going to hairdressingapprenticeship.ie and clicking the button on the bottom of the screen. The employer will then receive a notification to confirm that their expression of interest has been received, and will be contacted by a member of the NHA team to support them with the next steps. The 2021 expression of interest portal is now open, and will

Hairdressing is a unique and special profession remain open until August 16th, after which time the formal registration process will take place and salons will be contacted to progress their application. It’s a really exciting and positive time for apprenticeship in Ireland. Minister Harris launched the Action Plan for Apprenticeship 2021 – 2025 in April of this year. The plan promises to provide “additional support for those in the apprenticeship system, including for employers, who will be encouraged and supported to take on apprentices through financial assistance and other mechanisms”. “Despite the pandemic and the associated challenges for the industry, there has been a huge surge in interest from salon owners wishing to register apprentices. The great news is that the education and training boards around the country have responded to support the industry. The National Hairdressing Apprenticeship will be available in 12 locations in 2021 with further expansion planned in 2022” says National Apprenticeship Programme Co-ordinator, Suzanne Kiely. The locations for 2021 are: Sligo Training Centre; Mayo College of Further Education; Regional Skills & Training Centre, Dundalk; Crumlin College of Further Education; Cóláiste Dhúlaigh; Finglas Training Centre, Tallaght Training Centre; Limerick College of Further Education; Raheen Campus, Limerick; St. John’s College, Cork; Waterford College of Further Education and Enniscorthy Vocational College.

It’s never been a better time for apprenticeships, for more information go to hairdressingapprenticeship.ie or email info@ hairdressingapprenticeship.ie.

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The Hair and Beauty Industry Confederation of Ireland is a nonprofit, membership based national organisation committed to representing, supporting, developing and uniting all areas of the Hair and Beauty industry in Ireland, and all those who work within it.

Throughout 2021 we will continue to be your voice, and to support you & your business Image: Hair Stylist Bridget Haren, Photographer: KEST

SEAN TAAFFE EDUCATION

THE SEAN TAAFFE EDUCATION ONLINE PLATFORM IS HERE OUR BRAND NEW ONLINE TRAINING PLATFORM IS LIVE WHERE YOU CAN PURCAHSE PRE RECORDED CLASSES COVERING SEANS SIGNATURE COURSES FROM HIS 'CLASSICS MASTERED'

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Image Skillnet is co-funded by Skillnet Ireland and network companies. Skillnet Ireland is funded from the National Training Fund through the Department of Further and Higher Education, Research, Innovation and Science.

Trainers include: • The Business of Hair • Sean Taaffe • Ben Brown • Georgia Bell • Sophia Hilton • The Fantastic Hairdresser And more...

THE MAURA CLARKE TRAINING AWARD The Maura Clarke Training Award was won again (for the third time) by Waterford College of Further and Higher Education. Well done to all the trainers there who encourage competition and presentation of mannequins to their students. It’s a great start to sampling live competitions in their future hairdressing career. This was the fourth year of the competition. The late Maura Clarke was a terrific ambassador for hairdressing training and the Hairdressing Council and Irish Hairdresser Magazine are proud to have set up this award in her honour four years ago.

Mirror Mirror

Irish Hairdresser Issue 95

Articles inside

Interview with Paul Stafford

Adíos to Raffel Pages

Hairdressing Council

Liam Byrne M.I.T.

Mirror Mirror Awards

The Impact of Covid

Antoinette Beenders

Alopecia