Irish Hairdresser Issue 96 by Irish Hairdresser

Issue 96

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Ireland’s No. 1 Hair Magazine

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Editorial IGoodbye, recently watched Patrick Cameron ontoline who was presenting farewell and all the rest 2020. one of his ‘Education in Lockdown’ tutorials. This particular presentation was on ‘Wet Fingerwaving’ Ahh, banebut of if myyou It has certainly been a challenge to say thethe least training years! My eyes and my fi ngers just didn’t co-ordinate r e are reading this you are testament to both your dressphysical irishhitairin the end but when it came to that skill at fi rst! I did master and mental strength. Time now to let it go and start on a it took time! Gosh, I so wish I had that tutorial when I was different path of realisation and values. Life is short. Get training as although technically challenging he made it so out your bucket list and be ready for new challenges. interesting and broke it all down step-by-step and included the reverse pin-curling technique also. I know Dry Waving all came Congratulations to were ALLintroduced the winners of the BEST the back when new tools to the market butof they BEST/HABIC 2020. It was a good never reflected theAwards Wet Finger Waving end result year if youfor wanted Bridget Haren...no, I’d say,An it oldie was abut great year!. the hair flat to the head.actually Bravo Patrick. a goodie! Ireland’s

No. 1 Hair

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She almost swept the boards in the Awards. Yes, she won

Our profile in this issue is Robert Masciave, a high profile Best Haircutter, Best Bridal Hairstyist, Best Avant Garde hairdresser with a metal engineering past and the inventor of Stylist and Best Editorial Stylist. Overall she won the EBLADES. As Robert says in his interview “When you are main title ‘Ireland’s of the Year. There was no learning things that youHairdresser think are irreverent, they will come stopping her at that point as she also went on to win the back at a later date and you find you need that skill!”

Best Hair Salon in the Business Awards. Congratulations InBridget, this issue Northern Ireland Ken McClure is well deserved, youHairdresser are testament to the saying remembered and will be a great loss to the industry. And just as ‘Persistence pays off’.

we were going to print we heard of the sad passing of Bryonny Sainsbury owner of The Hair Bar in Newtownforbes, a fabulous It has to be noted also that Paul Mac, 3 times winner of young hairdresser whose life was taken in a tragic equestrian the BEST of the BEST Awards will receive our Hall of accident.

Fame Award. He is a massive influence in barbering here

On a personal note would like to thank all those supported in Ireland and hisI visualisation of things can who be fabulously the gofundme page ‘Mike (aka Jock) Harte’ and thank those normal and commercial to off-the-richter creative scale! who set it up for him sincerely. Motor Neuron Disease is not Paul we love you! often talked about but people should be aware of such a short and deadly illness it is and its symptoms.

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Hope you all enjoy this issue. Life is short and sometimes we forget that waking up each day Maeve is the ﬁrst thing we should be grateful for.

Maeve O’Healy-Harte

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Contents

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WINNERS

Irish Hairdresser Hairdressing Apprenticeship Are you Competetive Hairdressing Council Naramon HABIC O’Gara David Murray Robert Mascaive Digital Salon Best of the Best Awards 2021 Waynelloyd_loves PHAB Sevice Stars Enhanced Ventilation A Vital Necessity The Helping Hand Award 2020 Take Ten Braids for Days The Alternative Hair Show London Calling HABIC Best of the BEST Awards BOB Hairdresser of the Year 20/21 Female Hair Woes Trichologists OMC Awards Gemma Crossan Salon International Black and White Winner Tribute to KenColour McClure International Winner Phorest Virtual Event Hairdressing Council International Men’s Collection Winner Irish Paul Barber Mac Hall of Fame Editor: Editor: Art Direction:

Maeve O’Healy-Harte (maeveohealyharte@gmail.com) Maeve O’ Healy-Harte

Wayne Lloyd (maeveohealyharte@gmail.com) (wayne@hairstylist.ie) Wayne Lloyd (wayne@hairstylist.ie) Publisher Gold Vision Ltd Publisher: Gold Vision Ltd. Admin: Vika Rosmasko Sales: 086 355 5596 Sales: 086 355 5596 Design: www.studio93.ie Design: Inspire.ie No reproduction of any part of this magazine is permitted without prior consent. The greatest of care has been taken to ensure accuracy, but the part publisher accept responsibility No reproduction of any of thiscannot magazine is permitted for omissions or errors.The greatest of care has been without prior consent. taken to ensure accuracy, but the publisher cannot accept responsibility for omissions or errors. Art Direction:

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Hair: Shaun Hall Cover: Haren @ Bridget Mark Leeson Photo: KEST Photo: Richard Miles. Issue 94

WHAT OUR CLI EN T S A R E S A Y I N G

[ Zenith - Siobhan McGrath ]

[ Oxygen Hair Design, Cork - Alwyn Rea ]

“Metal Detox is amazing!! Areas of Galway have long suffered with “bad water” chemicals or pollutants in the water have had a massive adverse reaction on colour and highlighted hair for years. Metal Detox has been a Godsend. No more cleansing out green hue, just Detox and done, amazing colour and condition results. One of L’Oréal Professionnel Paris greatest launches yet.”

“Metal Detox is a game changer for us and our clients. By removing metals from the hair, we can now go above and beyond for our clients expectations, we can now exceed our colour results without compromising the health of the hair. We absolutely love Metal Detox.”

[ KCLUB Hairdressing - Kate Murtagh ]

[ The Edge Hair Design Cork - Eileen McGrath ]

“I’m loving the results from Metal Detox. The revolutionary technology is just what we need for our clients. Lots of people have water that effects their hair and their colour. Metal Detox is a game changer as it is giving us better lift and colour results and the condition and shine of the hair is amazing after using it. Also the smell and feel of the shampoo and mask is just Devine. It’s a big thumbs up from all of us at K Club Hairdressing.”

“I cannot recommend using Metal Detox enough. From the first application I can see a big difference in the final result of every colour I’ve used it with. The tone was extremely true and improved across the hair with each client. Not only was the colour improved but also the condition and quality of the hair was healthier. I could not recommend enough, it’s a product needed in every salon.”

[ Cyril Morgan Hair - Cyril Morgan ]

[ Jagged Edge Hair Design - Denis Crowley ]

“After using Metal Detox, we found the hair is healthier and shinier and colour lasts longer.”

“We are blown away by L’Oréal Professionnel Paris latest innovation Metal Detox. We love using it as we can now guarantee a true colour result for both blonding and colour services. Most importantly clients adore how their hair feels and looks afterwards.”

@oxygenhairdesign

@zenithhairclaregalway @zenith_hairdressing_galway

@kateelliehair @kclubhairdressing.ie

@cyrilmorganhair

@theedgehairdesigncork

@jaggededgehairdesign 4

Are YOU Competitive? Competitions are an essential part of growing yourself and expanding your mind and skill.

Winner of the overall award BEST of the BEST / HABIC 2020/21: Bridget Haren Competitions and Awards are good for moral, motivation and marketing! They foster better awareness of skill, technique, precision, innovation, time and money. Yes time and money because time is money! You learn to be aware of timings to get the job done and it keeps you focused on the goal of being productive every day at work where there are targets for you to meet. Of course competitions it is also where you can show off your skill and creativity and be recognised and awarded within the industry.

trade publications and on social media. It will generate positive word of mouth and not only will attract new business but also a high-calibre staff attracted to the opportunity of being part of an award-winning business. There are different competition and award models, but very often entrants are shortlisted before final judgement is made. Getting shortlisted, or selected as a ‘finalist’ is something to be celebrated and marketed. It will instill pride in your staff not only in their work but also in your business which in turn will improve staff retention, enthusiasm and productivity.

Competition usually means a one element/category task where as a Championship is where a competitor competes in a series of categories to determine an overall winner.

To be a successful hairdresser you need skill, technique and creativity amongst all the other elements which are part of the recipe for a successful career. However, it is in a competition that a hairdresser has the opportunity to push and break the boundaries and get creative on a whole new level. When we

Winning a competition or being shortlisted as a finalist is also a good news story to be shared publicly through local press, 6

say break boundaries we never mean break the rules of the competition!

only a few model agencies that work with clients who require models for hair competitions. Do your homework!

To stay motivated and focused in the salon can sometimes be hard so entering a competition is the perfect way to challenge you with new ideas and new sources of inspiration. For any hairdressers that want to be the best they can, entering competitions is an essential part of growing yourself and expanding your mind and skill. It is very important to enter competitions and advisable that whether you are a trainee or top stylist you should aim to enter at least one competition a year. The only thing standing in your way is yourself so stop waiting and get started!

Is make-up important?

How can I get started with competitions!

To enter a competition means you are already a winner. You have put yourself in a position which many others could and would not do. Don’t be disheartened if it is not ‘your day’. Perseverance and passion is the key. Competitions are a great way of learning and seeing what other hairdressers are doing. It showcases the standard of work that is making the hair Industry a success. Competitions can be live practical skills competition, a written business competition or a photographic competition. The build-up to a ‘live practical work competition’ allows a stylist great opportunity to work on their speed and perfection. It is also a learning curve in that it teaches you how to accept constructive criticism. Any career minded person who is determined and ambitious will take what they have learned and experienced and turn it into a positive.

How do I choose the right category or competition?

Choose a competition that will compliment your creativity and skill as a hairdresser. Before you enter any competition it is important that you research what is expected from you. READ the rules carefully and the READ them again! If you need clarification on any point just contact the organiser. From the rules you will get a sense of what the jury will be looking for.

How will I source a great model?

Your model is your key ingredient to success. Invest time in selection of a great model. No matter how fabulous your hair creation is, it will be the models job to ‘sell the look’ for you. It is a bonus if the model is tall, however good looks and lots of confidence with a good attitude will go a long way towards winning. Take in to account the features of your model i.e. the hairline and the condition of the hair. Make sure your model is comfortable with what is expected of them and what cut / colours / or fantasy creation you will be carrying out on them. There are

Yes, it is vital. Hire the best make-up artist you can! They should also be someone who is calm and understands exactly what looks you need portrayed.

What about clothes styling?

Clothes are critical in completing your image. Many a good overall look is ruined by not spending the time and effort on choosing the appropriate clothes which work to complement and enhance a hairstyle. If you are not confident in this area then hire a clothes stylist. It is always a total look that will win a competition.

How can I impress the members of the jury?

Jurors have a difficult task. They have a limited time to do their job and all models must be viewed and marked. They judge blind which means they don’t know the competitors that have presented the look, this is fair to all.

Where can I get ideas for competitions?

The internet is at your disposal! You are so lucky! There are millions of styles and shapes to be found there on Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest and personal hairdressers sites from all over the world. Hair Magazines on line or in print also give you great scope for sourcing competition looks such as IRISH HAIRDRESSER, ESTETICA, HIGHLIGHTS, PELUQUERIAS International, and annual style books such as ALTERNATIVE HAIR, AIPP Best Looks to name just a few. And don’t forget to check out top Photographers and Fashion Houses as you will get great inspiration from them too! ...................................................................................................... “People who win are committed, have patience, train, prepare, dissect rules down to the smallest detail, and learn from other winners what they have to do to win. It takes hard work and patience to get results but it is worth it.”. Maeve O’Healy-Harte. Team Ireland Manager and OMC Advisor “Competitions should convert expert constructive criticism to their own advantage after each competition and use it as a means of self-appraisal in the future ….never stand still and rest on your laurels. ”. David Murray. ‘Hall of Fame’ Irish Hairdresser Magazine.

NARAMON O’GARA

Why I like competing on Mannequins…

Naramon is from Athlone, Co Westmeath and has a passion for competing. Only 7 years hairdressing, she has worked her way up to achieve a goal she set for herself – to win a medal in the European and World Hairdressing Championships. Her first win 2016 when she won in the Stylist of the Year Online competition. She gained 6th place in the Team Cut & Colour & Avant Garde Categories in Paris at the OMC World Championships, followed up with 5th place in the OMC World Championship Cup online and then most recently 5th place in the OMC Europe Cup. “I’m working my way up Mount Everest…I’m not ready for the number 1 place yet but I intend to work towards it! My Manager keeps up the pressure, keeping me motivated and on track! When I went to my first OMC Championships and saw the winners on stage, I was jealous and knew then and there that I wanted to be ‘that person’ on stage accepting medals and trophies. I wanted to win! When I am competing I just start with the blank canvas of a new mannequin, play with the hair, follow my hands and eyes until I get a shape I like and then I start creating. I want a style that is balanced. For example if it’s a haircut I like sharp cutting lines and then colour to compliment as they go together. If I’m not happy, I change it to something different. I like to have my own signature and style. The categories I like are cutting, colouring, gala styles, avant garde and fantasy. It’s very important to read the rules and decide on the categories that suit you. I used to work on live models but there is a difficulty in getting ones for creative hairstyles so I use mannequins and they are perfect. They don’t talk back and they stay still all the time. Lol. Competition work is hard, the style, shape and balance must be right. You must practice, practice, practice and you must think like a juror and make sure there is nothing that may make them mark your style with low points” Opposite is a selection of styles by Naramon O’Gara.

We wish Naramon every success in her forthcoming Championships. 8

PHAB Service Stars “Do YOU deliver extraordinary service to your clients? The PHAB Service Stars are designed to attract more business to the hair styling chairs, beauty beds and nail stations of the very best salon professionals in Ireland and the UK. CEO and founder of the PHAB Service Stars Nergish Wadia-Austin, along with the most respected and experienced advisory board members from the U.K. and Ireland, set the measure of outstanding hairdressing, beauty, barbering and nail service and performance standards set about measuring, in a fair and uniform way salon professional’s standards. This means that wherever you work, be it in a salon, spa or barbershop, if you deliver extraordinary hairdressing or beauty services/ treatments, have a loyal client following and go the extra mile, you would qualify with your performance results as evidence. A simple on-line application means that you can confidentially apply for your PHAB Service Star and see how you measure up to industry averages in your sector! If you get through, you are a holder of a PHAB Service Star and would get the social media support you richly deserve from the stars! Apply today and see how you fare against the very best. Andrew Barton, a PHAB Service Star holder, celebrity hairdresser, industry icon, salon owner and British Hairdresser of the Year title holder has this to say about the PHAB Service Stars and why they’re so needed. “The hairdressing salon business is ever evolving and clients have become more sophisticated on how they buy hairdressing services. The search for experts by clients goes way beyond the quality of the haircut & colour service as clients expect a certain standard from a professional salon. Creating a point of difference is the focus for savvy hairdressers, colourists and barbers in order to convert new clients and stay engaged and hold the attention of existing clients. Salon owners should use PHAB Service Stars to promote a stylist’s work and reputation whilst also encouraging a sense of purpose for that busy stylist. It’s an excellent tool for that purpose. I am delighted to be an Honorary PHAB Service Star holder and have received new clients as a

result of it. The star also inspires my team to think about what level of performance and service they deliver at my Mayfair Salon!” Andrew Barton Celebrity Hairdresser & Managing Director Paul Griffin, hair artist and trainer, sheds some light on why the Irish and British personal care industry should embrace the PHAB Service Stars. Paul says "I loved my many years as a successful salon owner, working with highly creative and professional hairdressers. I have taken this passion forward with me as a trainer in the industry. I can't tell you how excited I am at the advent of the incredible PHAB Service Stars. Finally, a way to acknowledge people I regard as heroes in our industry. The hardworking excellent stylists that consistently exceed clients expectations, with those clients returning time and time again, knowing that all their hair and styling needs will be met. I encourage all of my industry colleagues to apply for a PHAB Service Star, and identify themselves to both clients and their peers as being true experts at their craft, and enjoy the prestige and benefits of standing out from the crowd. This is a unique system of ensuring that only the best service providers within our industry are rewarded with this honour, having gone through a robust and stringent verification process. For me, this is the way forward in our industry where excellence is rewarded and both the stylist and salons move forward in success and thrive. I am honoured to sit on the PHAB Service Star Advisory Board in Ireland, and I look forward to seeing this become the standard of excellence for stylists across Ireland and the UK" Hairdressers, colourists and barbers can apply for their PHAB Service Star in complete confidence at www. phabservicestars.com and join the best in industry!

Nergish Austin Wadia

Sean Taaffe

Paul Griffen

Maeve O’Healy-Harte

Wayne Lloyd

Bridget Haren

Andrew Barton 11

Mirror Mirror Mannequin Hair Awards

Who will be the 2021 winners? Closing date 1st December 2021. Categories for those still in training... • Colour

• Curly Style

• Casual Upstyle

• Long Hair Style (dressed down)

• Bridal Upstyle

• Avant Garde

RULES • Entry fee €20 for 1 category, €30 for 2-3 categories • Choose a style of your choice • Mannequins should be presented in front of a plain background preferably white. No logo backdrops please. • Mannequin shoulders should be dressed and accessorised. Members of HETF Hairdressing Educators, Teachers Fellowship and their students also have an opportunity to win the overall annual award for their training facility… the MAURA CLARKE TRAINING Award. Trainers who encourage competition and presentation of mannequins to their students are wetting their appetite for future events. It’s a great start to sampling competitions for their future hairdressing career. This was the fifth year of the Mirror Mirror Awards. The late Maura Clarke was a terrific ambassador for hairdressing training and the Hairdressing Council and Irish Hairdresser Magazine are proud to have set up this award in her honour five years ago. Thanks for Sponsors Kemon for coming on board then too. The Mirror Mirror Mannequin Hair Awards are open to all hairdressing apprentices/trainees in ETB’s, Colleges of Further Education and Hair Salons. From that competition, winners and several winning placements are awarded. Next, the highest points are taken from the results of

those who entered from a ‘member of the Hairdressing Fellowship of Educators and Teachers’ establishment and one winning school emerges from that result. For this years Mannequin competition we are adding two senior categories: Commercial Cut&Colour Statement Cut & Colour Entry fee €25 per entry. Closing date 1 Dec 2021

P FACTOR, PREVENTING AND TREATING HAIR LOSS IS POSSIBLE.

P FACTOR is the first integrated system in three phases that cleanses, regenerates and helps to prevent hair loss, counteracting the damaging effects of free radicals and keeping hair healthy. Contact your Xpert Professional Account Manager for more information. 13

@kemonireland

Congratulations to all the UK and Ireland Semi-Finalists who have made it through to the TrendVision Award 2021. These include 18 competitors waving the Irish ﬂag...

Color Artist

Natural Texture Artist:

NATALIA STAROŚCIŃSKA HOUSE OF COLOUR

JENNY BRENNAN HAIRLOOM . ELAINE CROWN PATRICK GILDEA HAIRDRESSING ANNA DAVIDSON TONI&GUY MALAHIDE NICOLE MCCORMACK HOUSE OF COLOUR LAUREN ROCHE TONI&GUY DUNDRUM

Editorial Look:

FLORENTYNA MULDOWNEY. PATRICK GILDEA HAIRDRESSING

Style Master:

SAMANTHA BYRNE VANILLA HAIR DESIGN

Color Specialist: EMMA DEMPSEY HOUSE OF COLOUR JADE DUNNE TONI&GUY DUNDRUM EMILY NELSON HOUSE OF COLOUR LISA O’NEILL. HOUSE OF COLOUR AISLING KENNY. HOUSE OF COLOUR

Craft Artist: CIARÁN DOWD. FREELANCE DANNY MALONE. FREELANCE JODIE QUINN. HOUSE OF COLOUR STEPHEN HANNA. PETER MARK VITOR PESSOA. FREELANCE 14

FINAL

Winners ON OCTOBER 11 #NTVA2021

AI PP A WAR D S 2 0 2 1 - 2 0 2 2 : LET T HE C OM P ET IT IO N B EGIN! The AIPP AWARDS 2021-2022 competition is finally here and the closing date is not until October 31st, 2021 to submit your photographic hair fashion collections!!! Don’t miss out, more and more of the greatest hairdressers from all over the world are participating in the competition each year!

Best Avant-garde Collection: Recognizing work which has researched new, original, futuristic ideas.

If you are a hairdresser, it is easy to participate in the competition: just submit your hair fashion collections (3 images per collection) and/or videos to be received no later than October 31st, 2021.

haircolor fashion, originality & overall quality.

All collections/videos must be submitted online via https:// aipp.net/ Organized once a year, the AIPP AWARDS were established in 1997 with the purpose of awarding annual prizes to the best hair fashion collections chosen by a jury of publishers associated with the AIPP. Today the awards include 5 categories:

Best Commercial Collection: For styles which are easy to wear and simple to re-style.

Best Color: The best hairstyles' collection in terms of Best Men's Collection: In recognition of the marked increase of interest in men's hair fashion.

Best Video: For the best inspirational hairdressing video

promoting a hairdresser/hair fashion collection (no step by step video/no product companies video).

The list of AIPP AWARDS winners to date includes the names of the best hairstylists in the world: Trevor Sorbie, Robert Lobetta, Angelo Seminara, Toni&Guy, Klaus Peter Ochs, Sanrizz, Mark Leeson, X-Presion, Dessange Paris, Charlie Miller, Tono Sanmartín, Vidal Sassoon, Aldo Coppola, Guy Kremer, Rush, Llongueras, Christophe Gaillet... and many more

ROBERT MAS CAIVE

‘Everything learned is worth learning’ “I am Robert Mascaive and I am proud to be a hairdresser. Thirty years on from when I started, I am still happily doing my job and loving it, in my salon in Kingston, London as well as being part of the broader hairdressing community. I've won many different awards, however my salon won 'The Best Salon' in the UK twice, which I'm very proud of because this is about my whole salon team. It's not about one individual. So that's why I'm very proud about that. And yeah, I love to share my knowledge and all the things that I have discovered throughout my journey, and to me hairdressing is a journey. “The name Masciave is Italian and is pronounced ‘Mashave’ there. I have some family living in Southern Italy, however, I was born and grew up in France and we pronounced it French style 'Masyave', so it's a hot name!!!” “I'm gonna tell you how I got into hairdressing but first I will give you a quote, which I'd like you to remember because throughout my hairdressing journey (my story), you'll see that actually, things come back. And my quote is that 'everything learned is worth learning'. Yeah. It's only when you go through life that you realise that the things that you have learnt may have seen completely irrelevant at that time, but sometime they come back to be very useful to you. I grew up in the northeast of France, in an industrial zone, where metal was the main product that was produced there. So, you know, everybody there at that time would go to college and then learn to work in the metal industry, including me! I love technology so when I started working with metal, I learned a lot about manipulating it, as well as learning about electronics. I learned what you call industrial design and industrial drawing and did that for two years until there came a time when I felt I didn’t fit in. It was the mid eighties and I was a punk and had like, huge spikes in my hair. So my teachers and colleagues looked at me and they were like, what are you doing here? You know you don't fit in. And one day, I don't know why it came into my head that I decided to become a hairdresser. I thought this would be great. And okay, bear in mind, I was only 17 and very naive, so my idea was that I would become a hairdresser and it would be a great job and I could do cool hair and change everybody's hair! Because I thought everybody on the streets looked shit and I wanted everybody to become punks. Right? I started training to be a hairdresser in 1984 and that was part of the punk hair era and all that. I’m laughing because during that time the whole world was going through a deep depression. And there was like a social revolution against the government, which was the punk movement, wasn't it? It was huge in France as well. 16

And, you know, in my home town, I was the only one punk. But people knew me and, you know, they knew I was not a troublemaker. I thought hairdressing would be a great, great job. But I needed to learn to become a hairdresser and get career advice. But first I had to convince my parents and, they both looked at me thinking, 'what?'. Because of course nobody in my family was a hairdresser. My mom said to my dad "Well, you know, I prefer him to become a hairdresser than an electrician." And, I was like, yes, this is exactly what I want to do. I know, I have the conviction. So they said, "Oh, okay, you've got the whole summer to find yourself a spot. If not, you go back to work with metal." So I started to look for an apprenticeship in a salon but in France they begin at 14 and I was 17 and already too old and I would cost the salons too much so I managed to find a school of hairdressing and from then my journey in hairdressing started. One thing, that was very funny, I had to do a practical and theory test to get into the school. And of course, I never touched hair, apart from doing my own hair spikes, that's all I could do, so I was very nervous. I didn’t mind the theory and I could draw as well. So, my plan was when I got into the school I would find someone that could help me with the practical exam, with practice. And I did just that! I met this guy whose parents had a salon that he was working in and they had sent him to the school to learn. He was nervous about the drawing of diagrams. And I said, well, I can draw. I will help you and you help me with hair. He said okay deal and that's what we did. And that's how I got in! Now the French way of training in styling and dressing hair was brilliant but cutting then was very basic. I became obsessed with my career choice pretty fast. I liked to do things well, you know. Perfection I got from my mom. She taught me to do things with precision. When I started doing men's haircuts it was good for a perfectionist, because you have to get every single detail right. I'm got into it very quickly and I worked hard. I got to a good high level of skill, I passed all my exams quickly, no problem. And then I got a job in my local salon, where I lived. My boss had nine salons and my role was to go in to each salon to do things the proper way. Sometimes, a diamond doesn't look like a diamond until it's been, put together. I say this because one day I was in a very tiny salon in a very tiny village which I used to call a shithole but actually I learned that that was my diamond! A client there said to me, "The way you work, you remind me of my friend's son. He is now in the UK and has his own salon, he is doing very well and he does shows and photoshoots also”. I was interested immediately. I’d never been to the UK and I really wanted to go so she passed on my number to him. He called me and we met up for an interview and I would start my new journey one month later with my mentor Guy Kremer. People thought that because I like extravagant things like punk, that that’s all I liked. But no, that was not so. At home, my mom, a dressmaker, my mom taught me the classic traditional lines which were in fashion and in hair. And, Guy's work was traditional and beautiful. And, to me, we were a great fit, because I learned how to make things beautiful and how to perfect things and I loved it. I began to develop my own style and I was always pushing the limits of my skill. Can my classic style become classic with a plus? Could it evolve more?

There I found I had a very distinctive style in avant garde. I opened my own salon 21 years years ago. I started to explore every aspect of my trade. It was all about expressing myself, you know, and I just wanted to try new things. And I think what's important is to, be free of judgment. So to try without the fear of people judging your work, and that's where you really can explore, that's where you discover new things. I always say to people, we don't fail, we never fail, we make discoveries. You discover things that you want and sometime you discover things that you don't want. I started doing a collaboration of photo shoots, where I could do what I wanted. And then suddenly, things happened, you know, and it was, pretty different and the photographer was like, "Wow, amazing! Love it!" Then I did more creative work for him and that's how it began with me pushing myself to the limit. It is still difficult, absolutely. You know, creativity is about courage, you need to have the courage to put things out there. But you know, the thing that people sometimes overlook, is, that you need your basic hairdressing skills to have strong foundations to be able to do creative things. Because you see our job is about expressing ourselves through hair by using our hands. And, you know, you've also got to be able to have a great link between what is in your head, and, and what you produce. So you've got to really work hard so that your ideas can be translated into the physical world, otherwise, your ideas will only remain verbal. If you're a great storyteller, you will be greater at saying things than others, but if you don’t know the foundations of your craft your hands can’t do the work and you will be found out! 17

When I'm working with my team, they always want me to show them how to work creatively. And I always just show them foundations because if you know them well then you just put your own twist or movement on it to make it creative. You know, people think that creativity is about doing strange things, it is not. Creativity is about challenging yourself and challenging your thoughts. When you put yourself in front of a challenge, your mind starts to think differently. Now, what's important is you develop the skill of thinking outside the box. Yeah. And then from that, you then develop the other skills that are really very important such as problem solving. People think, 'Oh, I'm gonna do some avant garde, can you teach me some technique'? Yes, you can learn some of the techniques, but it's about having an idea, working out how to make it work for you, and that is all problem solving!. For one of my photoshoots I discovered the properties of feathers. They are mind blowing. But the bottom line is that somebody one day could fly like a bird. It’s pretty amazing what birds do. It fascinates me. I start always with moodboards. When I teach, I try to get the students to think creatively. When I'm doing a show, I like to affect people emotionally. Now, when I say that, it doesn't mean that it's always emotionally good. You know, if I'm a movie maker, if I'm going to make a horror movie, well, of course, when you succeed is when you scare people. If you are making a comedy, and people laugh, then your movies are good. That means they understand my sensitivity, and, what I've done, and if they don't, they don’t! And when they hate it, because I affected them emotionally that also is what art is about. The first person that has to be happy is me. You know, when I made the hair outfits, I remember there was parts of it that was really just underneath that nobody would see that I had to have right also you know. I think that the important thing is not doing experimental work, just put everything out straight away, you know, at the end of the day, the development process is a great journey. You've got to work on it and develop the look up to a point where you and everyone else is happy. The first thing I do is to decide on an idea and then I start to think differently - how do I want to present it and what do I want people to feel about it? And now, then you then I start editing it accordingly. Providing you love it at the time, then it really doesn't matter what other people think because providing you're proud to put it out, that's all that ever matters. Deep down I am a real competitor but also I am a businessman. You know awards are good when your peers acknowledge your work. But competitions can also benefit your business, you know elevate it and that’s what I do to increase my value. I present my profile to my clients to gain more confidence and build a better business. And yes I have succeeded in lots of them but remember I also lost some competitions but then I learn from that experience too. The minute you give up that’s the minute you fail, If you are in the game, that’s what matters. Being a finalist can be fantastic, you are already part of a selection and that’s a great achievement so never give up! But remember chasing a title is one thing but it has to be for the betterment of your business and your career. You may become obsessed with competiting but as long as you know what your focus is. Focus is very important be it for your business, your creativity or your own profile. For me it was I wanted to build 18

a profile for my salon business Metropolis and educate myself along the way in this area. I must say, right now, I tell you, I've got a great team that I need, they are really working hard, and my Metropolis Salon is coming up to 22 years open. Its been a good journey. I thought I wanted more than one salon but I realized actually that it was more important for me to have one salon with really good hairdressing craft produced. I think the future of our industry is going to evolve; it's going to change dramatically. I've done some career talks about it. Yes, I talk about it quite a lot, because the future of our industry is going to have lots of technology. Because, you know, robotics is coming and we must stay relevant and creative or we will disappear, that is an absolute guarantee. People tell me that robots will never cut hair but I say they will because they are already teaching robots to operate all sorts of equipment and do all sort of roles. Another thing that I think is very interesting at the moment, is the Dyson hairdryer. It's amazing.. And what it has done, it removes a lot of the skills that I need. Yeah, okay, you need to do sectioning and things, but, it does the job very well. So I see this as one of the tools that are going to start replacing a skill we do. Do you remember years ago the tongs? Well before that there was a brush and dryer to create the look. Now everyone has a tongs. Then the ghd iron came and everyone was like no-no-no a good smooth blowdry is all that you need. .But of course, now we use it every day in the salon, it’s a given, it’s normal to do it. The youngsters coming up behind us you know have a different mentality. They say, well, why do we need to struggle when we have a tongs or a straightner. Well, that's it! The reason why I say, you have got to learn all the basics, you have got to learn all these old skills, because they are skills, because if you want to be able to express yourself, then, then you need to be able to do all these things. Because, you know, a tongs or a straightner might not be enough, you might need to know how to create finger waves, you might want to do different things. And, that's what, will help allow you to be creative and to do different stuff. And that's why you need to learn, you need to learn all these things!. . You know, when I recruit staff, I always have a problem because people think that I have a studio and all that I do is weird hair. But that part of my career is for a show, it's for the public, that's going to watch it, right. But when I'm in the salon, my work is for my clients. They are who I have to please and when I am in the salon they are my focus!. I love getting it right for my clients and for that to happen you need to know about face shape, hair texture, body shape, lifestyle. It is so important to understand the suitability of the work you do is good for the client. I grew up, with my mum making clothes and suiting outfits to a person was always the most important thing. She'd say to me, you know, that doesn't suit that person, that doesn't fit well. When you make something it has to fit well. I always think about what she said about fitting the style to the client…individuality. If you visit to a shoe shop and you say, I like those shoes and those other ones. They will say what size, what colour, normal or wide fit and then you know you will get the right shoes. So when I started doing hair, I used this theory…hair had to fit the

persons face shape, hair texture and their personality. EBLADE, that stories started a long time ago, actually more than 25 years ago. I started working, holding my scissors differently. This happened because I met a French hairdresser that had a shoulder injury and, he was told that he couldn't cut hair again because he couldn't lift his arm. And, the doctor said, unless he could find a way to hold his scissors differently he would never cut hair again. When I met him, he said I've got this idea, but I need somebody creative to help me to think of technique and things. So I was like, well, let's do it together. And that's how we developed the idea. Then I worked on this for quite long time but of course, my life, went on too. You know, I opened my salon and I didn't have time. And my focus was somewhere else, you know? Then one day a few years ago I wanted to change my own scissors, but I couldn't find any scissors that would allow me to carry on working that way I like and have that high quality blade. So that's when I decided to make the EBLADE. I thought, well, I'll make a prototype just for me. So I bought scissors that had the detachable blades and asked my friend who was a jewelry maker to make a handle. I did a drawing. I made the drawing in two seconds because I knew precisely what I needed. Could you make that? So we did that and then we refined it. I worked since then with my prototype and it was great. It worked really well. But then three years ago I had an accident. I broke both my wrists and dislocated and broke my shoulder. So the result was an operation. I've got metal in my elbow and shoulder to fix me. So I felt like a robot! Now when I say “I'll be back”, it means something. I couldn't work for, for, for many months, but I was determined to go back to work and I thought, you know, I wonder if I take my

scissors and try to work out how I can do this differently. When I started holding my scissors differently, I realized actually, wow, you know, I was able to do haircuts again. The other way was restrictive and I realized that I've got something here that can help others. And if I don't release it, I I'm going to feel selfish. You know, maybe other people, have injuries, and because if it helps me, it might help others too. And that's, when the EBLADE journey began. I had to find somebody to manufacture it and I then needed to develop the brand people would trust and a brand becomes a business! And that’s where I am now. I have now designed for people all over the world and there's already a change in the way that we work when using them. How exciting is that? The EBLADES have different grips also. For example I have used the inverted grip for many years then there is the Eastern grip that came a bit later. I continually challenge myself and others to think of different ways to use the blades. Our industry revolution is already happening. Now we need to put, things in a certain way to make sure that we can pass it on in the right way. We hold all the responsibility to build a good future for the young generation of hairdressers. So when they start working, they could start with a way that's better, healthier and a way to be more creative. You know, creativity is always on the court and I want to challenge people, you know. “I never get bored. I always say, only boring people are bored.” I will finish with a message to you… You must challenge yourself. Creativity is not about doing strange things but about being challenged. Challenge yourself to do your creative work in silence and it will allow you to evolve your thoughts and you never know, you could bring something fresh to the table that inspires everyone. That’s my challenge to you! So go do it. Challenge yourself! 19

2021-2022

INTERNATIONAL AWARDS Sponsored by

The BEST of the BEST International Awards are a testament to the art and creativity of our fantastic industry and each year the level of entries are always very impressive. RULES: Entries are open to those outside of Ireland Three photographs required per collection You may enter one or all collections Collections must be named and described in 50 - 100 words Photographic permission and credits required Closing Date: 1st December 2021 Entry fee: €100 per collection

Introducing the 2020-2021 BEST of the BEST International Award Winners

Monica Tubingia. Canada. International Avant Garde Collection Winner 2020-2021

Shogo Ideguchi. Japan. International Colour Collection Winner 2020-2021

Eoin McCarthy. Australia. International Mens Collection Winner 2021-2021 Rebecca Dickenson. UK. International Black & White Collection Winner 2020-2021

Bye Bye roots! Eliminate root imperfections and rediscover the magic of colour.

For simply perfect roots, anytime! ROOT TOUCH UP is the pigmented spray that effectively covers even wide regrowth in an instant. ROOT TOUCH UP POWDER is the compact powder that is ideal for precise and controlled application. INVISIBLE ROOT: for flawless colour, always. INVISIBLE ROOT is vegan/sulphate free/paraffin and mineral oil free/fragrance free.

www.alfaparfmilano.com

ALTERNA WINS

TWO GLOBAL GREEN BEAUTY AWARDS Alterna, the luxury haircare brand, has won two prestigious Global Green Beauty Awards for two of its My Hair. My Canvas. products: •

My Hair. My Canvas. Meltaway No-Rinse Micellar Cleanser won gold for Best Vegan Hair Product

•

and My Hair. My Canvas. Cool Hydrations Nourishing Masque won silver.

MY HAIR. MY CANVAS. MELTAWAY NO-RINSE MICELLAR HAIR CLEANSER is a vegan crème-topowder no-rinse micellar hair cleanser that absorbs oil or sweat and breaks down product for hair that feels shower clean. For most hair types. MY HAIR. MY CANVAS. COOL HYDRATIONS MASQUE is a vegan moisturising masque that provides deep hydration for replenished strands, reduces breakage, frizz and static and improves the overall look and feel of hair. For most hair types. The Global Green Beauty Awards celebrates the best of natural, organic, green and clean beauty. The Awards

are focused on Green and Clean Beauty products. We've seen a shift in what consumers are looking for and people are ever more conscious of not just what they are putting on their skin, but the ethics surrounding those products. How they are sourced, the ingredients, if they are organic and is the packaging natural? These are eco-friendly, green and ethical beauty awards. The Global Green Beauty Awards keeps this in mind with the product categories and is for those brands that want to reflect their greener ethos. Alterna Haircare is a trailblazer in the world of luxury haircare and styling. Since its inception in 1997, Alterna has pioneered ‘alterna-tive’ luxury haircare. The brand was born with and continues to show an unwavering commitment to creating premium products for stylists and consumers alike. The products are customised for specific hair types and have always been about purity and innovation inspired by skincare science using exquisite formulas with high-performance results. www.xpertprofessional.ie

IT’S A COLORFUL LIFE— MAKE IT LAST!

Henkel Nederland B.V., Grasbeemd 4, 5705 DG, Helmond, The Netherlands Hair Olivia Smalley Photo Hama Sanders

NEW COLORFUL A brilliant and beautiful trio that keeps you true-to-hue • Free of SLS/SLES sulfates** • Provides anti-fade UV protection for longer-lasting color† • Boosts shine, manageability, and strenght‡ with every use @joicoireland

www.joico.eu

#joicocolorful 23

*Tested with permanent and semi-permanent haircolor; when washing hair 2-3 times a week using Colorful Shampoo †When using Colorful Glow Beyond Anti-Fade Serum ‡Against combing breakage on damaged hair

**SLS/SLES = Sodium Lauryl Sulfate/ Sodium Laureth Sulfate

CAVIAR MOISTURE INTENSIVE CERAMIDE SHOTS

Single-Dose Biodegradable Serum Capsules Delivering Luxuriously Healthy, Hydrated Hair The new addition to Alterna’s CAVIAR Replenishing Moisture line meets the modern luxury consumer aligning perfectly with their lifestyle. These consumers are looking for multifunctional products that reflect the high value they place on environment. They are also looking for the convenience and flexibility of waterless, portable formats designed for their on-the-go lifestyle. Alterna created NEW Moisture Intensive Ceramide Shots to meet these needs while delivering the highperformance and visible luxury. The potent serum-in-capsule delivery system provides a wherever and whenever flexibility that makes it easy for consumers to achieve hair that is stronger, softer, and easier to manage at home or on-the-go. The capsules can be used on damp or dry hair as a multi-benefit leave-in treatment. Infused with Caviar extract, and packaged in plant-based biodegradable capsules, these highly concentrated ceramide capsules infuse hair with hydrolyzed silk and vital nutrients such as Ceramide NP that reduce frizz and breakage while increasing strength and shine. Available from Xpert Professional Haircare

PRE-BONDED OPAL ACIDIC TONERS Blonde and care with confidence with the new SoColor Sync Pre-Bonded Opal Acidic Toners from Matrix.

The opalescent tones offer long-lasting colour with 100% oxidative dyes for colour you can be sure of. The acidic-based formulas are Ideal for sensitized hair, there are four new ammonia-free shades to choose from – 10PA, 10PV, 10PR and 10PG – hair is left looking opalescent with a gorgeous glossy shine. As part of the SoColour Sync range, the toners come pre-bonded and pre-blended and at 90ml, offer an economical two applications per tube. 24

LIQUID GLOSS

An exquisite Liquid Colour Gloss and Toning System. NAK LIQUID GLOSS deposits like a Demi and conditions like a Semi. The innovative system addresses the global challenge of BaseBreak. It is designed for gentle colour and toning replenishment and transcends traditional hair colour palettes. Made from modern toning techniques with natural hair to consider, the colour or tone can be retouched whilst natural hair remains untouched, ideal for creating a high-gloss finish on colour treated or natural hair. NAK LIQUID GLOSS takes the guesswork out of product selection, ensuring successful colour and toning design and artistry. It is ideal for toning hair after lightening, highlights or balayage when there is a natural base colour or regrowth to consider. The LIQUID GLOSS Collection comprises 27 vegan shades enriched with squalene, a superior skin protective from Sugarcane, creating softness, hydration and moisture balance. Create beautiful toning lustre without the risk of base-break. Refine unwanted warmth and deposit cool or neutral tones. Restore colour gloss, tone and condition as you colour. The LIQUID GLOSS Bespoke shades include neutral, warm and cool tones. Each client has their own colour story, to ensure safe colouring in the salon, please refer to the NAK HAIR Colour Safe Principles. For stock details contact www.xpertprofessional.ie

OLAPLEX LAUNCHES 4-IN-1 MOISTURE MASK A 10 minute premium salon service to moisturise, smooth, add shine and body OLAPLEX 4-IN-1 Moisture Mask is formulated to address the needs of all your clients whose hair is in need of moisture, especially those with more severe dryness and damage. It brings a new professional strength treatment, unique to the salon with elevated levels of ceramides, oils and amino acids for a luxurious post-chemical moisture service. This highly concentrated 4-IN-1 reparative mask is suitable for all hair types and adds

shine and body while providing intense moisture to treat damaged hair. Moreover, it offer clients the full OLAPLEX experience for the most healthy, beautiful hair possible. OLAPLEX 4-IN-1 Moisture Mask is intensely concentrated with up to 140 uses in one bottle. It moisturises, smooths, adds shine and body in just 10 minutes. OLAPLEX® products contain a patented technology, strengthening fragile bonds with every step of the routine for the healthiest hair possible. Available from Xpert Professional

Invisible Root Camouﬂage touch up

ALFAPARF Milano has launched invisible root. to cover grey and camouflage regrowth between salon visits. The range comes in a pigmented instant spray and a coloured powder compact. Both are suitable for all hair types. The product formulas are vegan (free of any animal origin and derived ingredients) and free from sulphates, paraffins and mineral oils. Fragrance free for an even more delicate touch. The invisible root. directional spray is available in five shades: Black, Cold Brown, Warm Brown, Medium Blonde, Red Copper and the compact coloured powder is available in four shades: black, brown, medium blonde and light blonde. The invisible root. touch up spray format is easy to use thanks to the practical directional nozzle that quickly covers wide and noticeable regrowth along the top hairline. The invisible root. touch up powder is practical and easy to use thanks to the precision brush which allows accurate and controlled application around the temples and on hidden areas, which are harder to reach and treat with a spray.

KEMON ACTYVA P FACTOR Prevents and Treats Hair Loss The number of people experiencing hair loss has increased continually over the past few years as a result of changes in daily habits, stress, fatigue, environmental aggressors and hormonal and metabolic imbalances. Increased hair loss, often associated with more or less widespread hair thinning, is the primary symptom of many hair disorders. Amongst these the most common are Excessive Hair Shedding (Telogen Effluvium) and Baldness (Androgenetic Alopecia). Excessive Hair Shedding is abundant hair loss during the ‘resting phase’ (Telogen phase). Baldness is the most frequent hair disorder and affects an increasing number of people. It involves a progressive reduction in the size of the hair follicle, caused by the action of hormones. The Kemon ACTYVA response for the cosmetic treatment of these disorders is P FACTOR: the first integrated system in three phases that cleanses, regenerates and helps to prevent hair loss, counteracting the damaging effects of free radicals and keeping hair healthy. From Kemon’s Research and Development laboratories 26 comes the enhanced version of the P Factor segment, an innovative topical treatment specifically designed

for hair loss due both to male genetic factors and excessive hair shedding. The enhanced system improves hair follicle activity, stimulates scalp circulation and contributes to preserving the physiological hair life cycle. Applied regularly, it is the ideal aid to prevent hair loss by counteracting hair thinning and making the hair fibre thicker. Kemon ACTYVA P Factor Key ingredients: saw palmetto extract, hemp seed oil, procyanidins from red grape seeds, minerals and vitamins and grape stem cells. The exclusive complex of functional ingredients comprise: grape stem cells, larch tree and tea extracts providing antioxidant activity, caffeine with energising properties, glycine and zinc with a strengthening effect, menthol with invigorating qualities. Efficacy and skin tolerability of P Factor Lotion were tested at the Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences of the University of Pavia. Statistical analysis indicated that the active treatments, under the experimental conditions examined in the study, are able to significantly change the follicular density parameters.

COLOUR ME HAPPY THIS AUTUMN

Grow your colour services and ensure your clients fall in love with their colour this autumn with the new Colour Me Happy services from Matrix.

and depth to all hair types. From short to long, curly to coily, these quick and easy techniques will boost your confidence as well as your colour business.

Matrix Artistic Ambassadors have created three gorgeous, wearable looks for every client possibility, using the SoColor range to achieve the colour.

The three colour services are: Chocolate 3D Balayage, Blonde Ring Lights & Ribbons and Glossy Autumn Crescent.

The quick and easy colour applications use everyday techniques to enhance natural tones, add dimension

The SoColor collection is your perfect colouring partner.

Free education Throughout September and October, hairdressers can learn how to recreate the three techniques on three different types of hair for FREE. Simply head over to L’Oreal Access and use the relevant code Chocolate 3D Balayage 21UK-COLOUR-ME-MOCHA https://uk.lorealaccess.com/learn/course/40138/colour-me-happychocolate-3d-balayage Bronde Ring lights & Ribbons 21UK-COLOUR-ME-FRAMING https://uk.lorealaccess.com/learn/course/40135/colour-me-happybronde-ring-lights-ribbons Glossy Autumn crescent 21UK-COLOUR-ME-COPPER https://uk.lorealaccess.com/learn/course/40137/colour-me-happyglossy-autumn-crescent www.matrixhaircare.co.uk

LICE GUARD SYST EM Clinically Tested, Non-toxic, Hypoallergenic, Formulated for Sensitive Skin

Little Green has launched a LICE GUARD SYSTEM which is clinically tested, non-toxic, hypoallergenic and formulated for sensitive skin. The range follows on from the success of its recent Baby and Kids Hair and Body Collection, which launched in early summer. With the back-to-school season approaching, parents will be on the alert for any outbreak of head lice in the classroom as children congregate and play after the summer break. Many parents are choosing lice treatment options that are natural and non-toxic. All of the products in the Little Green Lice Guard System are formulated with a proprietary blend of natural Tea Tree, Neem, Rosemary, Peppermint, Lavender and Eucalyptus oils to effectively help repel head lice. They are non-toxic and specially formulated for sensitive skin. These products are effective yet gentle enough for daily use. For maximum results layer all the products in the Lice Guard System.

towels) that have recently been in contact with a person who has a lice infestation. Contrary to popular belief, dogs, cats and other pets do not play a role in the spread of head lice. To survive, head lice must feed on blood and require heat. It is for that reason lice and nits are found almost exclusively on the scalp, particularly around and behind the ears and near the neckline at the back of the head

The Little Green Lice Guard System comprises three products that are clinically tested and help prevent head lice infestation.

• Itching, caused by an allergic reaction to the bites of the head lice.

Lice Guard Shampoo: Gently cleans the hair and effectively helps to repel head lice. Lice Guard Detangler: This conditioning hair detangler that nourishes the hair and effectively helps to repel head lice. Lice Guard Gel: A styling gel that effectively helps to repel head lice. This gel is perfect to create structured styles (slicked back ponytails, buns and braids for girls or spikes for boys) as it ‘seals’ the hair and makes it difficult for lice to adhere to the strands. Little Green uses delicate formulas that are gentle for babies and children and kind to the environment they will grow up in. All of the Little Green products are highly effective and treatmentoriented and products parents can trust. The range is developed for sensitive skin and is vegan, hypoallergenic, clinically and dermatologically tested. It’s proudly allergen, paraben, sulphate and gluten-free. What Are Head Lice? Head lice are tiny grey-brown, wingless, parasitic insects that only affect humans. Nits are the eggs of head lice and appear as tiny white specks that are stuck to the base of hairs. How Are Head Lice Spread? Head Lice move by crawling and are most commonly spread by direct contact with the hair of a person who has a lice infestation. Anyone who comes in head-to-head contact with someone who already has head lice is at risk. Head-to-head contact is common during play at school, at home and elsewhere. Although uncommon, head lice can be spread by sharing clothing (hats, scarves, coats or sports uniforms) or belongings (hair ribbons, barrettes, combs, brushes, 28

What Are Symptoms of Head Lice? • Tickling feeling of something moving in the hair. • Irritability and difficulty sleeping - head lice are most active in the dark. • Sores on the head caused by scratching. These sores can sometimes become infected with bacteria found on the person’s skin. How Can I Help Prevent My Child From Getting Head Lice? • Soak combs and brushes recently used by a person with head lice in hot water (at least 130°F) for 5-10 minutes. • Machine wash and dry clothing, bed linens and other items recently used by a person with head lice during the previous 2 days on the hot water (130°F) laundry cycle and high heat drying cycle. • Clothing and items that are not washable can be dry-cleaned or sealed in a plastic bag and stored for 2 weeks. • Vacuum the floor and furniture, particularly where the infested person sat or laid. Can Hairstyles Help Deter The Spread of Head Lice? Yes, hairstyles, along with the use of Little Green’s Lice Guard System, will help to dramatically reduce a child’s risk of infestation. Cleanse the hair with Lice Guard Shampoo. Condition the locks with Lice Guard Detangler leave-in spray. Apply an even layer of Lice Guard Gel to the hair. For boys style hair with spikes or slicked back. For girls with short hair: pull back a small section of braided hair and secure with a clip and for girls with long hair: buns and braids offer the most protection. For additional protection, lightly coat the finished hairstyle with Lice Guard Gel to create a barrier and use Lice Guard Spray and Gel on nape of neck and behind ears. For stockists’ details: www.xpertprofesional.ie @littlegreencares_uki

ENHANCED VENTILATION A VITAL N ECESSITY You should not underestimate the importance of ventilation in salons

You’ll often hear people say that fresh air is good for the soul. Well, fresh air is also good for your health and the health of your customers and your team. It is of utmost importance that when working in a salon, whether it’s a hair salon, beauty salon or barbershop, that you keep your salon ventilated thoroughly. What is Ventilation? Ventilation refers to the provision of fresh air into rooms or buildings through natural means (e.g. opening a window or door), or by mechanical means (e.g. central heating, air conditioning). It’s vital to allow as much ventilation into the building as you possibly can. Why is it so Important? According to Dr Mai Mannix, Director of Public Health at the HSE Mid-West, there has been a number of outbreaks in hair salons and beauticians in recent weeks.) If we are to avoid a return to higher restrictions, we must do everything to provide the safest environment that we can. The following explains why ventilation is a factor that must be given careful consideration within your salon. As COVID-19 can be transmitted through respiration particles, it’s advised that even opening one window can reduce the number of particles in the air. This was proven from an experiment carried out by UCC Chemistry Professor John Wenger. In a salon in Cork, a small CO2 monitor was placed in the middle of the salon at an unused station, while keeping a window open the whole time. The owner of the salon was advised by Professor Wenger that if the CO2 level rose above 800, to open a door as well as the already open window, to get fresh airflow through the room. This experiment was conducted over two days, with the owner finding that when customers came in, the CO2 particle levels would rise to 800ppm (parts per million), and would reduce drastically when a door was opened to allow fresh air in. This method is called cross-ventilation. So, how can you Enhance Ventilation in your Salon? As we stated at the on-start, you can effectively ventilate your premises in two different ways; naturally or mechanically. 1: 30 SOURCE: HABIC

Natural Ventilation: Natural ventilation involves introducing fresh air into the workplace through opening doors and windows. Cross-ventilation, as mentioned above, is a good option for window ventilation as it facilitates the quick exchange of room air for fresh air, through widely opened windows. Propping open doors (except for fire doors) may also increase air movement and ventilation rate. 2: Mechanical Ventilation Mechanical ventilation involves the use of HVAC (Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning) systems. These provide comfortable environmental conditions such as temperature and humidity and clean air in indoor settings. It’s important to check your ventilation systems to ensure there’s an adequate supply of fresh air from a clean source, as many air conditioning units just heat, cool and recirculate the air. Where workplaces have Local Exhaust Ventilation, the new air should come from outdoor fresh air rather than other rooms. You can find more in-depth information about natural and mechanical ventilation in the COVID-19 Reopening Guidance for The Personal Grooming Industry April/May 2021 report. What else can we do? As well as ventilation, you and your staff should make every effort to not spend too much unnecessary time in the salon. As it’s an enclosed space, if you’re on your break, you should make an effort to spend it outdoors, weather depending of course. That way there is more chance for fresh air to come into the salon, as well as you getting fresh air outside. To reduce the risk of outbreaks and clusters within the hair and beauty industry, it is vital to introduce enhanced ventilation into your routine. A small action like keeping your windows open and opening another door can increase the amount of fresh air in the building, which means less of a risk of COVID-19 particles in the air if there is someone who has tested positive in the vicinity.

www.habic.ie #StaySafe #StayInformed #BePrepared #HABICtogether ARE YOU A MEMBER?

ROS Model Management is an independent boutique style model agency and production company. Our expertise is in Photographic Shoots, Shows and Hair Competitions. We also have a fully equipped, spacious Photographic Studio in Dublin that you can either hire out completely and bring your own team or we can do the whole production for you by supplying the models, makeup artist, clothes stylist and photographer to give you the ultimate hassle-free experience. Call Gabrielle Patterson 089089 4993334 Call Gabrielle Patterson 4993334 E: rosmodelmanagement@gmail.com E: rosmodelmanagement@gmail.com WWW.ROSMODELMANAGEMENT.COM www.rosmodelmanagement.com

BRAIDS FOR DAYS Braids are a Trend that will never go out of fashion.

No matter what the season, whether it’s the summer time when everyone loves a summer braid and an easy hairstyle to get their hair off their face in the warmer weather, or winter, when we clients are looking for hairstyles that will keep frizz and flyaways at bay and their hair protected from the hash cold weather. However, now is the time to experiment with our braids and incorporate them into different hair looks such as ponytails and buns for a more contemporary braid look with added quirkiness. The BOHO Braided ponytail –this look is so quick and simple to create and the results are effortless but chic. This hairstyle is perfect for clients who are looking for a soft, romantic style for weddings or special events, or who want something a bit different from the classic bouncy blow-dry and beachy waves. To create the style, firstly start by applying some Caviar Anti Aging Replenishing Moisture Leave-In Smoothing Gelee to the hair. This will not only give the hair moisture and shine before styling but it will also help define and perfect the braid in the look. Once distributed throughout the hair, take a thick section of the hair on the right hand side and start creating your braid. For this look a regular three strand is used but to finish the braiding, the hair was gently pulled out in areas of the braid to provide thickness and a softer finish. Secure with a hair tie. Wrap a section of the ponytail hair around the hair tie to give a more sophisticated finish. The FISHTAIL ponytail - for clients who want something a bit different from the regular three style braid, the fishtail is a great choice for giving the hair the appearance of thickness and texture. This is an easy technique on prepared smooth but volumous hair. Use the Caviar Styling Rapid Blowout Balm prior to smoothing curling to help protect the hair from heat and breakage. Then, take a section, three sections from the top of the head, still leaving hair underneath, and divide this into three ponytails, one on the left hand side of the head, one on the right and one in the middle and secure with hair ties. Then the fun part starts! Create a hole in the top of the middle ponytail and then take the ponytail through it and make a twist and pull this out a little bit for a relaxed finish. Then take a hole from the right hand side and pull the ponytail through again. Each time you should slide the hair tie and create a new hole on the right hand side. Repeat the same technique with your left and right hand side ponytails and then join the braids into a ponytail and secure. Spritz with Caviar Perfect Texture Spray. My Hair. My Canvas. City Slay Shielding Hairspray can also be used to control any frizz and flyaways and keep this hair look in place all day long!

Hair by

SABRINA DIJKMAN, ALTERNAEUROPE AMBASSADOR Image Credits: Instagram @sabrinadijkman https://www.instagram.com/sabrinadijkman/

LONDON Calling….. 8th October

ExCEL London on 16th -1 s

As always, SALON International will provide a rich mix of shopping and shows, with global hair and beauty brands exhibiting and throughout with packed of inspirational from leading hairdressing names and emerging talent. Guests will also be able to enjoy a first look at the work of finalists for HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, as the Gallery returns to showcase some of the UK’s most inspirational hairdressing. With lots more be announced, there’s never

LOTS MORE TO BE ANNOUNCED...

been a better time to book for SALON International and prepare to immerse yourself in the world of hairdressing – and everything makes this industry so exciting and inspirational. Even though restrictions have been lifted, Health & Safety will remain the ultimate priority, and the entire event is being carefully planned in accordance with Government guidelines and with the support of experienced, specialist organisers.

To book your tickets, visit www.salonshow.co.uk/tickets

Female Hair Woes Nioxin has recently carried out a survey to discover more about female hair woes. More than four in 10 women have suffered from hair loss – despite millions believing it is something that ‘only happens to men’. A study of 2,000 women aged 18 and over found that while 31 per cent experienced ‘mild’ hair thinning, nearly one in 10 have lost whole clumps of hair in one go or noticed bald spots. But with 79 per cent of women admitting that their locks are a huge part of who they are, more than one in 10 sufferers have sought professional help due to the impact it had on their mental health. Others have refused to look in mirrors (14 per cent), edited pictures before posting on social media (12 per cent) and cancelled dates (seven per cent). The study, by Nioxin, also found 72 per cent of all women believe there is a stigma around hair loss in females. As a result, 59 per cent would hide the condition from strangers, work colleagues and even their own friends and family. This means many are suffering in silence, despite 38 per cent feeling that thinning hair would impact their mental health, and 29 per cent going as far as to say it would likely leave them feeling depressed. Made in Chelsea star Liv Bentley first started to notice signs that her hair was thinning at the age of 16 after spotting a bald patch about the size of a two pence piece while on holiday in Majorca. She said: I assumed I probably ripped it out by brushing too hard. So, I left it as I thought it was normal. “A few weeks later at school, I was brushing my hair in the shower and more had come out so I panicked and started crying. I didn't really know what it was. “There’s no doubt that when my hair was thinning and I had bald patches, my confidence was greatly impacted. “My hair has always been so important to me and it’s just such a major part of any woman’s appearance, so when it’s not at its best, it really does affect you. 34

“My advice is always to not ignore it as it is unlikely to go away without help and treatment.” The study found that of those who have suffered hair loss, they first spotted signs of the condition at an average age of 34, but nearly one in 10 (11 per cent) noticed it as young as 18. While 45 per cent put it down to general stress, more than one in 10 (12 per cent) believe it was a result of having Covid-19. Others blamed their thinning hair on pregnancy (19 per cent), a poor diet (20 per cent) or a separate health issue (25 per cent). But nearly one in six (15 per cent) still believe hair loss is something that is only suffered by men, with nearly three quarters claiming there is more of a stigma around it in women. Almost two thirds (64 per cent) put this down to hair being considered such an important part of a woman’s appearance, while 44 per cent believe it’s because it’s not as common in women as it is men. More than half (55 per cent) also blame it on a lack of women who have thinning hair, or hair loss, appearing on TV. Mark Blake, Nioxin Trichologist, added: “Hair loss in women is not something that should be kept quiet and is more common than you might think. “But the stigma around it and the belief that it is only a ‘male condition’ is stopping women from seeking help which could not only improve their hair, but also their confidence and mental health as a result. “Demand in our clinics from women suffering from hair loss has increased by 200 per cent, so you really are not alone. “There are options out there if you are struggling with hair loss, such as Nioxin’s range which is designed to help those with thinning or fine hair, so that you don’t have to hide it from others or suffer in silence.”

XPERT PROFESSIONAL appoints Brand Specialist for ALTERNA and R+Co Xpert Professional Ireland is delighted to announce the appointment of Audrey Shanley as Brand Development Manager for ALTERNA and R+Co. Audrey will support and educate salons and develop the brands nationally. Audrey brings over two decades of executive-level experience in the beauty industry, predominantly in the premium luxury haircare sector. Having begun her career with L'Oréal Professional Products, she moved on to become National Sales Manager for Kérastase and successfully drove the range of brands there. As part of the overall L’Oreal brief, she launched shu uemura as a luxury exclusive professional brand available only in selected stockists. She recently launched and distributed the Italian brand, Davines, to the Irish market, once more winning market share as well as many awards, including IMAGE’s Business of Beauty ‘Most Innovative Hair Brand ‘. Like the best of her profession, Audrey is committed to working with beautiful products and creative individuals to deliver amazing results for the consumer, and sales for the salons. She knows and operates on the basis that this can be done – and is being done – within an ethos that rests on environment, pure ingredients, eco packaging and free of chemicals and cruelty. She subscribes completely to XPERT’s focus on professional education, advanced training and upskilling. “Consumers are hungry for advice; they want to know what the professionals recommend and the sacred relationship between a woman and her stylist depends on that absolute trust that what the stylist is recommending comes from deep technical knowledge and training. Xpert Professional understands that this special relationship depends on continuous professional upskilling and technique.” 35

Award Winning Hair “I came from a Hair influenced background. My late father Jimmy was a well known businessman who founded Crossan Hair & Beauty Cosmetics. My mother Pamela was a hairdresser so it was a natural progression for me. I grew up with it and loved it. At 23 I opened my first salon in 2009 in Riverstown, Sligo. In 2013 I opened a second salon in Ballymote, Co Sligo.

Business was good and I also loved the competition element of the industry. I won several competitions including the 2017 Irish Hairdresser of the Year, Northern Ireland Champion and also at the BEST of the BEST Awards I won the prestigious Frank Hession Cup. I was delighted to be asked to be a member of Team Ireland and I travelled to several countries with them including Milan, Frankfurt and Moscow which was all very inspiring. I furthered my long hair training in USA with Sharon Blain

which was amazing and helped me further my passion for presenting seminars in upstyling and dressing hair. It also flourished my bridal hair business which I do in-salon or at destination of wedding party. Fast forward 12 years in business, a pandemic happened, which dare I say, was the best thing to happen for me as it allowed me focus on a complete over-hall for my business. I got the time to think, reevaluate, train more, build my online shop and add a private hair loss and scalp clinic along with a whole range of other new services to what I already offered. I have now relocated my Riverstown salon to Ballysadare. I designed everything myself for my new salon and chose to get custom made furniture in Istanbul. I am delighted with the finished result and that we are now in a larger, brighter salon in a more centralized location.”

A TRIBUTE TO KENNETH MICHAEL (KEN) McCLURE By James Wallace-McCarton “I have lost my first mentor Kenneth Michael. Here we are now, it is the week of the final goodbye to one of the biggest influences of my life and honestly it really doesn’t feel real yet, I honestly don’t think it has hit me fully but here I am trying to make some sense of it all with words. Ken was a titan in the hair industry teaching and mentoring so many students in Rosemary street and in the Kenneth Michael Salon that so many of us creative souls called home. Having been to 3 world championships (including the silver medal winning performance in Milan) and several other international competitions as his model I got to see a side of Ken beyond being one of his Junior Assistants, travelling the world with Ken along with his husband and soul mate Steven. They introduced me to a world that unless you have lived it, it is difficult to understand, it was passionate, colourful, fast paced and in all honesty an explosion of creativity. Being part of the Northern Ireland team in my early years gave me some of the best memories of my entire life and took me around the world to countries I could never even imagine visiting. Thinking back in all honestly, I don’t know how Ken and Steven put up with me back then from 16 to 21 you couldn’t tell me anything I knew it all but they always supported me with love and patience and a little exasperation. My 8 years working in Kens were the most amazing start to a career that any 16 year old could have, it was full of so many highs, and Ken was instrumental in the formation of who I am today. Ken was always a fountain of knowledge and advice, and he always made time to talk to any one of us. Ken and Steven always fondly called us all family and nicknamed us their children. One of the biggest testaments that I can give is even when staff moved on they regularly popped in to plonk themselves on the legendary black chair in the staff room, cup of tea in hand to have a chin wag and catch up with Ken or Steven in between clients (and occasionally were put to work shampooing or folding towels) and that to me that sums up the family that they created within the salon. The fact that I became a hairdresser is testament to Kens patience because in all honesty I was a bloody nightmare, talented but a bloody nightmare non-the-less. Ken didn’t say much, he was the most gentle soul but when he did say something you listened. He gave me so many nuggets of advice that even if you didn’t think was relevant at the time I often find myself remembering even now. Ken helped me through so many milestones in my adult life being a shoulder to cry on during the divorce of my parents, helping me navigate my coming out and a supportive boss when I had the conversation telling him I was leaving the salon to move to London. Ken was a wise man, he reminded me of an owl, it was almost like he knew the outcome of the situation before it even happened. On so many occasions when I was in my teens and early twenties 38

Ken McClure of Kenneth Michael Salon, passed away peaceful on 17th August 2021. his fatherly advice got me out of so many situations. I will never forget the years when Ken and Steven would host the Christmas dinners at their home on the evenings of the x factor finals so Danielle Weir and I wouldn’t miss watching our darling icon Cheryl, their home was your home! His little pause when most Wednesdays you used to ask for a sub to go out to slosh with Ryan James Ebbitt and him never saying no, but knowing fine well I would be hanging like a bat the next day and do even less work (if that was possible!). Some of my favourite memories was watching him talk with Jamie Lee about ballroom dancing and then watching him at the Hair ball spin her around, his face filled with so much joy, just listening to the music and drifting around the dance floor. In those moments I think he was filled with an almost childish joy. And watching him be so passionate every day in work and having a clientele that were as much like family to him as we were, was the inspiration to the type of hairdresser I aspired to be. I was honoured to be present when Ken and Steven got married in Manchester and honestly anyone that knew them saw two soul-mates each others ‘ying and yang’ and watching the love of the two men that I class as family on that special day was an privilege. And then a year later having them witness me get married, and seeing how far I have come was a blessing. Because of Ken and Steven I am the man I am today and although I will be saying goodbye I will never forget the man, the father figure and the friend that I had in Ken. So goodbye for now until we meet again. I hope you are sitting up there drinking a Cointreau and Coke thinking God James really does rattle on!, but I hope you knew how much you meant to me and so many others. May he rest now in peace.

GLOBAL SYMPOSIUM EDUCATION SEMINAR G LO B A L C E R T I F I C AT I O N HAIR - AESTHETICS - NAILS

Raphael Perrier Presents

OMC ELEGANCE COLLECTION

IRINA BARANOVA Presents

OMC PRESTIGE COLLECTION

Date: March 6-7-2022

Melia Hotel, Milan, Italy FOR ADDITIONAL INFO EMAIL OMC@OMCHAIRWORLD.COM www.omchairworld.com

SEAN TAAFFE ED UCATION

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SEAN TAAFFE EDUCATION ONLINE PLATFORM On our new on-line training platform you can purchase pre recorded classes covering Sean’s signature courses from his ‘classics mastered’ course.

TO SUB SCRIB E OR TO B OOK Y OUR CLASS FOR AS LITTLE AS € 10 P ER CLASS FOLLOW THE LINK

https:seantaaffeeducation.thinkific.com/

FIORE

Hair: Richi Grisillo Photo: Andrew O’Toole

Empowering change The Hairdressing Council of Ireland (‘The Council’) was set up as an organisation to have a fresh approach to what was needed within the industry then and going forward. Progressive thinkers, with open minds and a selfless interest came together and formed the first executive committee under President Bridget Haren. Since then, the Council have repersentated 2500+ hairdressers at every occasion possible for industry betterment, including attending meetings with government and local representatives. We successfully protested against the VAT rise, we have completed our own surveys and supplied information and data for surveys to others. We were signed in as the lead industry body for the new Hairdressing Apprenticeship when it was formed and are Guardians of the Apprenticeship with others now. We encourage salon owners to support the Apprenticeship and we promote Hairdressing as a real career choice with our future prospects now fi nally on the National Educational Framework. We communicate, foster and encourage junior Council members who are the voices of the future, we mentor and manage Team Ireland members and are a member of OMC the World Hairdressing Organisation. We liaise with all industry groups and we encourage the wellbeing and safety of all our industry. We affiliated with HABIC since its inception and encourage hairdressers (and beauty/barbers/nail / spa industry) to support them also. We also are affiliated with Irish Hairdresser Magazine. ‘We wanted change and it happened…and now we want more change and improvement for our great industry’

Hairdressing Council E: info@hairdressingcouncil.ie Website: www.hairdressingcouncil.ie

Sponsors:

ViriiQuip.com ENVIRONMENTAL & VIRUS PROTECTION SOLUTIONS

Affiliations:

EKATERINA

Hair: Manuel Mon & Gonzalo Zarauza Photo Pavel Zverev & Alina 44

USE THE ON A CLOUD COLLECTION TO REBUILD BONDS AND INFUSE HAIR WITH HYDRATION. WITH INGREDIENTS FROM THE BAOBAB TREE, IT PRODUCES COLLAGEN LEADING TO A GLOWING COMPLEXION WHICH FIGHTS THE SIGNS OF AGING, IT STRENGTHENS THE HAIR FROM BREAKAGE, THE OIL MOISTURIZES THE HAIR, WHILST THE PROTEIN BONDS TO THE KERATIN PROTEIN WITHIN THE HAIR.

THE CULTURE OF HAIRDRESSING FORMULATED WITHOUT PARABENS + SULFATES*, VEGETARIAN, CRUELTY + GLUTEN FREE.

@xpert_professional @Randcouk www.xpertprofessional.ie TO BECOME A STOCKIST CONTACT XPERT PROFESSIONAL TODAY.

RECRUITING?

The last few months have been a time of change for us all. And many of our members have found themselves down staff for numerous reasons. And now, on top of all the duties of running a business, they now find themselves in dire need of staff both front of house and on the floor and are frantically trying to recruit..There are many ways to skin a cat… and, we want to tell you about just one of them!!

JobsIreland.ie

You can advertise your available positions for FREE with JobsIreland.ie. This free service helps people to get jobs and helps employers to connect with the right people.

What is JobsIreland.ie?

JobsIreland.ie is the Public Employment Service of the Department of Social Protection. They offer an online service that allows employers to advertise available positions and for job seekers to search for jobs. The Job Seeker can create a profile to match their skills and experience with available jobs. This service is supported by the jobsireland.ie team as they provide expert guidance and resources to both jobseekers and employers. They can help you, the employer, to promote jobs and match your requirements to jobseeker profiles. Who can use JobsIreland.ie? JobsIreland.ie connects employers with people who are looking for work. It links anyone who is looking for employment, or thinking about changing job or career direction with employers who are advertising vacancies and actively hiring. How will I as an Employer benefit from using JobsIreland.ie? Post your job for free Register and Advertise 24/7 Avail of financial and accessibility support and grants Access to the Irish and European public Employment services for free European Employment Services (EURES) Jobsireland.ie is part of EURES – the European Employment Service – which is a co-operation network formed by public employment services across Europe. All paid jobs advertised on JobsIreland.ie also appear on the EURES jobs website at eures.europa.eu. If you find it hard to recruit suitable staff in Ireland or want to broaden your skill base, EURES may be able to help. Our EURES advisors across Europe can:

•

provide free expert advice on recruiting in Europe,

•

advertise and promote your vacancies in Europe,

•

give you access to jobseekers in other EU and EEA countries, and

•

offer financial supports for interview and relocation costs and language training. For more information on EURES, visit euresireland.ie. EmployAbility Service EmployAbility is a nationwide recruitment advice service for the business community and people with disabilities. Your local EmployAbility service can give you access to a pool of potential employees with varying levels of skills, abilities and training.

International Employment Permits

It is a policy of our Government that jobs in Ireland should be offered first to suitably skilled Irish and European Economic Area (EEA) nationals. They should only be offered to non-EEA nationals if there are no suitable candidates within the EEA. However, if you cannot find people with the skill sets you need within the EEA, you may be able to use employment permits to recruit people from outside the EEA. Current Government policy is to issue employment permits for the employment of non-EEA nationals only for specific vacancies. You must advertise the vacancy on JobsIreland.ie and EURES at least 28 days before you apply for an employment permit. Customer support The JobsIreland.ie Customer Support team is available Monday to Friday 9am to 5pm if you need help to register for the JobsIreland.ie service or require advice on other supports available. You can contact them by phone on 0818 111 112 or 01 248 1389 or by email jobsireland@ welfare.ie. You can also follow JobsIreland on Facebook, Twitter, LinkedIn and Instagram. You can join HABIC as a member on habic.ie.

SOURCE: HABIC www.habic.ie #StaySafe #StayInformed #BePrepared #HABICtogether ARE YOU A MEMBER? 46

ColourCore

Hair: Barry Kiernan Photography: Fiona Flynn

Angelico

Hair: Ross Charles Photography: David Charles

RaW

Overall Winners of AIPP awards

Hair: Terri Kay & Andrea Giles @ Mark Leeson Photography: Richard Miles

MZUNGU

Hair: Juliette den Ouden Photography: Michelle van Dijik

BACK to the FUTURE

Hair: Robert Dallo Photography: Estudio Kentar

A quality magazine providing industry content since 1996 100% Irish

HAIRDRESSING CAREER AND TRAINING BOOK

EDITION 7 IN PRODUCTION Advertise your business, salon, training facility or on-line store in the next edition

Contact: 086 3555596 PREVIOUS EDITIONS

Irish Hairdresser Issue 96

Articles inside

Hairdressing Council

Tribute to Ken McClure

Robert Mascaive

Are you Competitive

Gemma Crossan Salon

Female Hair Woes

Braids for Days