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Sunday, September 18, 2016

Globetrotting trips for when the weather turns cold ď‚› Plus: autumn in Iowa

Travel

2 | Sunday, September 18, 2016 RACHEL MUIR

How to plan your

Special to the Washington Post ‌

‌A

lone Cape buffalo was crossing the arid, scoopedout plain at the bottom of Ngorongoro Crater when the lions seized upon it.

Two were approaching from one side, three from another.

Behind the buffalo was a pool of water. Surrounded, it retreated a few steps and lowered its horns.

The stand-off was slow, silent, mesmerizing. The lions began their attack, launching themselves one at a time onto the back of the buffalo. Each time the buffalo reared, throwing the big cats off one after another. Several yards away, a pack of hyenas lay in wait.

My 12-year-old daughter put down her binoculars. She didn’t want to see the buffalo die.

But it lived to see another day.

After nearly half an hour, the lions stood down, and their would-be prey high-tailed it back to its herd.

The lions started to play in the long grass.

Our guide, Isack Msuya, shrugged. The lions weren’t hungry enough today, he told us. You never know what you’re going to see on safari.

Our seven-day safari in Tanzania was the most time I had spent on the road in a single week — often, more than eight hours a day on the East African country’s notoriously rough roads. It was sometimes incredibly dusty, but there also were times when there was little to see. And occasionally, we were hounded by tsetse flies.

For the vast majority of the time, though, it was amazing. We never lost that kid-in-a-candy-store feeling.

It went beyond just seeing the animals of legend — although see them we did: zebras; wildebeests; elephants; giraffes; lions; baboons; gazelles; cheetahs; leopards; hyenas; monkeys; buffaloes; crocodiles.

The most awe-inspiring part was the firsthand, extended window on how they behave and interact in their own environment.

Creatures we had seen as exotic zoo specimens became three-dimensional, alternately playful, watchful, raucous, social and placid. In many ways, they were

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life-changing safari

WASHINGTON POST PHOTO / SOPHIE MUIR‌

Elephants at sunset in Serengeti National Park. as complicated and fascinating as humans can be.

We saw a herd of elephants team up to help a slippery baby climb up a river bank and had an up-close view of how giraffes eat in the wild, navigating the toothpick thorns of the acacia tree with their long, dark tongues.

There were young male impalas out to impress the ladies, gracefully sparring and locking horns; hippos congregated by the dozens in pools, resting on one another and spewing water from their enormous jaws; two fuzzy cheetah cubs curled up with their mother. More than once, we were close enough to touch herds of zebras as they brushed by our truck.

The landscape and the people who lived within it were an essential part of the experience.

The Masai, who live in the areas surrounding the national parks, were striking wrapped in bright plaid cloths, herding cattle. We

twice saw Masai boys in the white face paint, feathered headdress and black clothes traditional for circumcision ceremonies, held shortly after male children reach puberty.

We had truly ventured into another world.

Sticker shock is common, agreed Jay Hanson, senior safari consultant for Africa Travel Resource. The London-based company books safaris across the continent for about 3,500 people annually. Prices range from $2,000 per person up to $50,000.

“A safari can be one of the most expensive things people ever buy after a house and a car,” he said.

“A top-end safari costs tens of thousands of dollars. People’s expectations can be out of line at the outset. They might say they want a luxury safari, but when they see the prices of the camps, they’re like, ‘Wow, that’s $4,000 a night.’ “

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Travel

Sunday, September 18, 2016 | 3

In Mexico, the surreal Day of the Dead NIKKI EKSTEIN

Bloomberg ‌

‌Don’t even think about calling it Mexican Halloween.

Though Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, has come into the collective conscience for its zombie bride costumes and kitschy skeletal face paint, the holiday is a spectacle unto itself.

“It’s a very deep and mystical experience,” said Mexico travel specialist Zachary Rabinor, who has been taking travelers on Day of the Dead trips for two decades and is considered one of the country’s forefront travel experts.

Each year, from Oct. 31 to Nov. 2, villagers throughout Mexico empty out of their homes and into local cemeteries to welcome the souls of their dearly departed. There are bouquets of marigolds and candles as far as the eye can see, and gravestones are cleaned and festooned with flowers. Families don embroidered indigenous dresses for feasts, for which they cook their deceased relatives’ favorite foods. And of course, there’s tequila.

Rabinor has participated in at least a dozen of these events, mostly in the 14th-century city of Pátzcuaro, a few hours west of Mexico City, and in Oaxaca, where the festivities are among the largest and most vivid. Yet he still says they’re very difficult to describe.

“It’s spectacular,” he said. “One of those experiences that gives you goosebumps.”

Especially with pop culture references —as in the dramatic opening scenes in the James Bond thriller, “Spectre” — helping

BLOOMBERG PHOTO by Susana Gonzalez‌

Workers cut the Cempazuchitl flower, used in the Dia de los Muertos, or Day of the Dead, celebration, in Cholula, Mexico. build awareness for the immense drama of Dia de los Muertos, travel requests are outpacing Oaxaca’s capacity for travelers.

(The state of Michoacan, where Pátzcuaro is located, is not as safe as Oaxaca, making it less viable for do-it-yourself trips.) So if you want to witness the magic, you’ll have to start planning well in advance.

Rabinor suggests booking hotels now for 2017’s event because the small number of luxury spots in Oaxaca book up far in advance. Ben Gritzewsky, a Mexico specialist

at travel agency Frosch, said you can wait until February and still get a great room.

But when it comes to flights, the data experts at Kayak said you’re most likely to get the best fares if you hold out until the last minute, booking any time from Aug. 15 to Oct. 31-the same day the event begins.

That said, you’ll want to arrive a little earlier. Parades flood Oaxaca’s streets as locals begin to prepare the cemeteries for their all-night affairs, and the traffic leading up to the holiday can be pervasive.

Rabinor and Gritzewsky both stressed that the Day of the Dead isn’t a big carnival or party — it’s a solemn affair. But in the last five to 10 years, locals have added an element of masquerade to the proceedings.

Some argue that the elaborate face painting traditions are the product of Halloween-style commercialization; others say globalism and the influence of European Catholicism gradually turned up the volume on these festivities over hundreds of years.

Regardless, you have two experiences to choose from: the made-for-Instagram revelry and the more authentic cultural encounter that involves staying up all night, communing with the spirits, and feasting by a candle-lit tombstone. Rabinor and Gritzewsky make sure their clients see the latter, hooking them up with local guides with deep connections in the smaller surrounding villages. “You need someone who has not just access but who knows the people and is part of the community,” said Rabinor. “You don’t want to just observe from outside and be a gawky tourist.”

About the artisanal culture: This is a bona fide crafts mecca. Visits to the nearby artisan colonies of Teotitlán del Valle, San Bartolo Coyotepec, and San Martin Tilcajete are musts if you want to buy loom-woven rugs, black pottery, and mythical wood figurines, respectively. All are iconic Mexican art forms that originated within a shockingly compact radius from Oaxaca.

Also nearby are the Zapotec ruins of Monte Albán and Mitla, each less than 45 minutes away by car.

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4 | Sunday, September 18, 2016

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Cabin fever: Year-round cabins for winter fun Lake Wapello State Park‌

‌In the off-season, you can rent cabins at state and county parks for shorter durations and, often, a discounted price. You’ll still get to take advantage of hiking trails (many allow cross-country skiing and snowmobiling), wildlife watching (deer and birds aplenty!), ice fishing and more.

Experience Iowa’s great (winter) outdoors at these awesome accommodations.

Lake Wapello State Park in Drakesville, often called the “country club” of Iowa’s state parks, is a popular location for cross-country skiing and ice fishing in the winter months. The park offers one six-person cabin year-round, located among the quiet wooded hillsides. $85/night.

Pine Lake State Park‌

Named for the ancient white pines that line the hiking trails, Pine Lake State Park in Eldoraoffers four stone-and-timber cabins with woodburning fireplaces and modern amenities. Cabins sleep 4-6 people, making it a perfect location for a weekend away with your family. Starting at $65/night.

Honey Creek Resort Cottages & Camping Cabins‌

This beautiful full-service resort also includes luxury cottages perfect for a family retreat. As you gaze out on Rathbun Lake near Moravia in South Central Iowa, you’ll feel like you’re in the wilderness but will still be able to enjoy the amenities of the resort, including a restaurant and indoor waterpark.

Starting at $189/night.

Adjacent to the resort at Honey Creek State Park, there are two camping cabins also available year-round. For those looking for a more rustic experience with luxury amenities nearby, these cabins are perfect, $35/night.

Backbone State Park‌

If you haven’t been to Iowa’s first state park — Backbone State Park near Strawberry Point — winter is a great time to experience it. Trails remain open for cross-country skiing and snowmobiling; hunting and fishing are popular recreational activities.

Modern luxury cabins are available in both one- and two-bedroom styles. Starting at $50/night.

Big Woods Lake Park‌

COURTESY PHOTO‌

Fall in the Amana Colonies.

Fall’s 15 most scenic locations in Iowa ‌Experts at traveliowa.com asked lo- 8. Des Moines River Water Trail, Fort cals for their favorites, and here’s the Dodge list they came up with: 9. Loess Hills, Western Iowa 1. Western Skies Scenic Byway 10. Lake Red Rock, Knoxville 2. Pinicon Ridge Park, Central City 11. Amana Colonies 3. Charles City Main Street 12. American Gothic House, Eldon 4. Leach Park, Bettendorf 13. Perry Creek Trail, Sioux City 5. Lacey-Keosauqua State Park, Ke14. Historic Hills Scenic Byway osauqua 15. Iowa River Trails, Coralville 6. Lake Okoboji, Okoboji Source: Traveliowa.com 7. Dubuque

The cabin at Big Woods Lake near Cedar Falls features beautiful light-filled southern views of the lake while maintaining peaceful the golf course at the park doubles as a privacy for a small group. This year-round cross-country ski course in winter. Starting cabin sleeps up to six people and the multi-use at $55/night.

Cedar Valley Nature Trail is steps away. Starting at $73.92/night.

Cordova Park‌ Curl up in front of the fireplace at CorBriggs Woods Park dova Park’s Widgeon Cabin, which sits atop a wooded bluff overlooking beautiful Lake & Little Wall Lake Park‌ Bring the whole family to Little Wall Lake Red Rock, near Knoxville. Comfortably sleepPark’s newly-constructed Lakeview Cabin, ing up to 10-12 people, the cabin has a full which sleeps up to 15 people. The cabin is kitchen, living area, two bathrooms, bedroom ADA-compliant and the park allows ice fishing and a sleeping loft. Starting at $140/night. and water fowl hunting. Located just south of Jewell. Starting at $75/night.

Or, check out the view at nearbyBriggs Woods Park (to the south of Webster City) which has two year-round cabins for rent.

The Legacy and Oak cabins overlook Briggs Woods Lake and the park offers a trail that connects with Webster City. Additionally,

Eveland Access Cabins‌

Oskaloosa’s Eveland Access offers two year-round cabins that sleep four to six people. The modern cabins have full kitchens, living room, wireless Internet and TV/ DVD. Spend some time outdoors ice fishing, cross-country skiing or snowshoeing around the park. Starting at $60/night.

Jester Park‌

Take the chance to unplug and reconnect with family at Jester Park’s Pine Cabin, near Des Moines. The park offers just about every outdoor activity you can think of, including hiking, ice fishing, birdwatching, hunting, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing and even horse-drawn sleigh rides. The cabin sleeps up to six. Starting at $90/night.

Lake Of Three Fires State Park‌

Tucked away in Southwest Iowa near Bedford, Lake of Three Fires State Park is a perfect place for a quiet family getaway. Their four modern cabins accommodate up to four people each and the park itself contains eight miles of trails around the lake. The trails are snowmobile and equestrian friendly. Starting at $50/night.

Springbrook State Park‌

Springbrook State Park’s Sherburne House near Guthrie Center is ideal for large family gatherings and holidays. The cabin sleeps up to 10 people and features tons of amenities from a full kitchen and huge living room to a large deck overlooking the wooded park.

Take a stroll on the 12 miles of hiking trails and you’re almost guaranteed to see deer and an abundance of other wildlife. $200/ night.

Union Grove State Park‌

Two cozy cabins are tucked away in Union Grove State Park, right on the banks of the 110-acreUnion Grove Lake near Gladbrook.

Hiking, snowmobiling and wildlife watching are popular outdoor activities – but with the cabins’ luxury accommodations, you might not want to leave. Reservations can be made by calling 641.473.2556. $75/night.

Waubonsie State Park‌

You’ll be able to enjoy one of the rarest and greatest Iowa vistas – the Loess Hills — from your accommodations in one of Waubonsie State Park’s camping cabins near Hamburg. Cabins can sleep anywhere from 2-10 people (please note, some cabins do not have modern restroom facilities or running water). Starting at $60/night with plumbing.

Willow Lake Recreation Area‌

Cozy up in one of three modern cabins at Willow Lake Recreation Area, six miles west of Woodbine in Western Iowa. King Cabin, Scotch Pine Cabin and White Pine Cabin have all the modern necessities like full kitchens, TV/DVD and a grill, but you’ll be steps away from miles of prairie and woodland trails.

Sightings of deer, pheasant, turkey and quail are common. Cabins sleep up to 8 to 12 people. Starting at $110/night.

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6 | Sunday, September 18, 2016

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Penguin classics

If you go For more information on wildlife-viewing opportunities: Falklands Conservation (falklandsconservation.com) and Falkland Islands Tourist Board (falklandislands.com).

A lively quest on the Falkland Islands ANDREA SACHS

The Washington Post ‌

‌I was bouncing around in the back seat of a Land Rover, heading toward a beach on East Falkland. My eyes swept over a desolate landscape of dirt patches punctuated by green lumps. I searched for signs of life. In the distance, I noticed a cluster of dark smudges.

“Those are penguins,” Esther Bertram said from behind the wheel.

I asked her to please stop the car and ran half-mad toward the birds. I stared; they stared.

I could’ve cried with happiness; they couldn’t have cared less. I climbed back into the vehicle, giddy.

Most birders aspire to see hundreds — if not thousands — of species in their lifetime. My number is set at 17, and they all belong to the same family: Spheniscidae or, in non-ornithologist parlance, penguins.

Since embarking on my penguin quest years ago, I have witnessed four species in the wild. (Zoos and aquariums don’t qualify.) I have seen little blue, or fairy, penguins in Australia and New Zealand; Humboldt penguins in Patagonia; and African penguins in Namibia. On a January swim in Ecuador, I nearly smashed a Galapagos penguin with my head when I darted to the surface for air.

The Falkland Islands has five species and more than a million penguins, including the world’s largest breeding population of gentoos and nearly 40 percent of the world’s southern rockhopper population. The birds inhabit beaches, craggy cliffs, heathland and coastal grasslands, all within reasonable reach.

On a summery February morning, Esther, chief executive director of Falklands Conservation, and Andy Stanworth, a conservation manager, showed me how easy it was to commune with penguins: as simple as driving to

the beach.

“They are everywhere,” Andrew said as we stood among several groupings of the birds on the sand and in the dunes. “They’re part of the scenery.”

Hearing that news, I broke out in a “Happy Feet” dance.

The penguin breeding season coincides with the tourist invasion. Both occur during the Southern Hemisphere’s late spring and summer months, roughly September to March.

During this period, the archipelago transforms into a giant maternity ward (and docking station for cruise ship passengers). The adults lay and incubate their eggs. The chicks hatch.

The weeks-old fledglings gather in protective creches while their parents forage for food in the ocean. The youngsters wait for dinner, vocalizing their hunger and impatience — loudly.

Two species, the gentoo and the king, inhabit the Falklands year-round. The southern rockhopper, Magellanic and macaroni are seasonal guests. When the weather starts to cool, they depart for waters up the South American coast and around South Georgia Island and Antarctica. But even in the offseason, the penguins outnumber the humans.

The Falklands’ largest colony of king penguins — about 1,000 adults and 500 chicks — resides at Volunteer Point, a toe of land three hours from Stanley. The site draws crowds on cruise ship days who arrive on pre-arranged tours.

Signs point this way to the gentoos, that way to the Magellanics, over here for the kings.

The second-largest penguin, after the emperor, is indeed stunning. They are statuesque and look haute couture in velvety black hoods splashed with citrus colors. But I also found them disturbing. Measuring three feet tall and weighing 35 pounds, they are the size of a 3-year-old.

They walked to the ocean single file, wings flapping — the same

King penguins closely guard their space as a large colony nests on Volunteer Point, Falkland Islands. formation as the Beatles crossing Abbey Road. They babbled in an eerie voice. On the shore, they lined up facing the water and stood as still as statues. One by one, they dove into the water, a flash of black feathers glistening in the waves.

Of the five species, the macaroni is the most elusive. It doesn’t

even appear on a local map highlighting wildlife-viewing sites.

According to Falklands Conservation, about two dozen breeding pairs nest among the rockhoppers, which look like the macaroni’s runtier twin. Both are crested penguins with plumes that spring from their heads like streamers.

I had completed my task in

the Falklands in six days, an unimaginably speedy time frame.

But I wasn’t over the penguins.

Instead, I had fallen even deeper.

I heard rumors. Somewhere in the Falklands were “other” penguins. Maybe even an 18th species-in-the-making.

Over the years, islanders have reportedly spotted an Adelie and a chinstrap. Most likely, the Antarctica-based penguins lost their bearings and drifted too far north.

Residents have also discovered penguins with aberrations.

The odds of seeing a hybrid were low. But I knew I would have another opportunity. I had a return visit in my future.

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Sunday, September 18, 2016 | 7

Desert retreat

If you go ...

SANCTUARY COVE: 8001 N. Scenic Drive, Tucson; http:// www.sanctuarycove.org or 520-744-2375. Free admission.

Open daily sunrise to sunset year-round. Rental cottage rates vary by season. Easy to moderate hiking. Watch for thorns, rattlesnakes, heat.

Arizona offers still place in turning world ‌MARANA, Ariz. (AP) — The distinct, bell-shaped mountain rising above the Sonoran Desert northwest of Tucson holds a special power, say those who’ve spent time here — a magnetism that draws you in, sets you apart, even if only momentarily, from a difficult world, and perhaps even heals.

Named Safford Peak by early settlers, this protrusion of rock, scrub and cactus has beckoned visitors for centuries. For nearly 60 years, some of that land has been maintained as a place to hike the desert landscape, meditate, pray or just take time out from life.

That mystique drew me and my wife, Mary, to Sanctuary Cove, a spiritual retreat on the western edge of Marana, a sprawling Tucson suburb. We stayed at the property’s guest cottage, a small, modern structure with amazing views across the Tucson Basin from the front and a large patio in back jutting into the mountain desert.

We reserved for the night of a full moon, expecting moonlight and shadows, perfect for nighttime photography, on the towering saguaros, prickly pear and rocks. Nature gave us a different show. Sheets of rain from a brief afternoon monsoon blurred views of the nearby 3,563-foot peak.

Hours later the clouds turned into a powerful storm to the east.

Lightning illuminated the Santa Catalina Mountains like a strobe and yellow and white flashes lit up tall thunderheads.

We watched in awe from our cottage porch 17 miles away. We couldn’t hear thunder — just the staccato of crickets and a whispering breeze.

Sanctuary Cove’s website describes its mission as “providing a natural place of peace and unspoiled beauty” offering an opportunity to “’draw apart’ from the intensity of today’s hectic lifestyle.” An entrance sign reads simply “A still place in a turning world.”

That mission has roots in centuries past, when indigenous tribes were believed to have visited, used and traversed the area.

Today the property is operated by All Creeds Brotherhood, a nonprofit founded by Elmer Staggs, a World War I veteran who came to Arizona in 1917 to recover from tuberculosis. He homesteaded a large desert parcel outside Tucson, later selling some of it, including 31 acres to the federal government for the adjacent Saguaro National Park. But he retained 80 acres for public use for hiking, meditation and religious services.

A labyrinth, built from desert rocks by former caretakers Chuck Koesters and Annie Bunker, encourages visitors to clear their minds and absorb the desert’s beauty as they walk the circular formation. Trails offer views of Tucson to the right and Marana below. Skilled hikers can tackle rock-faced “Sombrero Peak,” the name locals give Safford Peak.

The cottage sleeps three, with a modern bathroom and full kitchen. Shelves are stocked with books, many eclectic and outof-print themed on self-help, inspiration and spirituality. The front porch is perfect for reading, enjoying morning coffee or simply sitting. The 500-square-foot covered patio in back reaches into the scrub and cactus, a good place to meditate, practice yoga, barbecue or snooze in a hammock, all while enjoying panoramic views and wildlife.

“I’ve seen mountain lion, desert fox, deer, javelina, bobcat, rattlesnakes, tarantula, Gila monster, coyote, desert tortoise,” said caretaker Amy Langley. “I’ve heard some bobcat screams that will scare the pants off you.”

Sanctuary Cove is also home to many birds including turkey vultures, desert wrens, doves, Gambel’s quail, owls and hummingbirds. A rare elegant trogon was recently spotted, Langley said.

As we prepared to call it a night, rustling in nearby brush was a gray

sun’s going down, the last light, it’s just beautiful,” Langley said.

“I’ve had people come out here ...

AP PHOTO‌ they haven’t been here for years and ‘Oh, we just wanted to come The All Creeds Chapel at the Sanctuary Cove in Marana, Ariz., is back because I had some really pictured as low clouds from an Aug. 9, 2016, monsoon swirl around powerful times in my life here.’ adjacent Safford Peak.

So there’s something about that pig-like animal — a javelina nick“At the end of the day when mountain that people are very named Jorge by Langley. the light is fading, when the drawn to.”

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