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LIPBONE REDDING Homegrown talent takes performace worldwide
FOSSILS & Aurora history
SOUTHERN
RECIPES
for the warm Spring months
MAY/JUNE 2018 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 1
We’re up all night so you don’t have to be Immediate care 24/7 It seems the morning will never come when you have a stomach bug or a sinus infection that gets worse with each passing hour. Rest assured. At Vidant Multispecialty Clinic in Belhaven we’re here all night and on weekends— even holidays — so you don’t have to wait for expert diagnosis and treatment. We accept walk-ins. So we’re waiting for you when the unexpected happens — minor emergencies like flu, sinus infections, bladder infections, earaches, cuts, rashes, asthma and sprains. And count on us for ongoing care of complex conditions like diabetes and heart trouble. For all the journeys of life.
Immediate care: 24/7, walk-ins welcome. Primary care: 8 am – 5 pm, Monday – Friday. Call 252-943-0600 for appointment. 598 W. Old County Road VidantHealth.com/Belhaven
BIG BARGAIN FURNITURE
In this issue
FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS CELEBRATE SPRING
IN EVERY ISSUE
28
8 10 24 52 54 58 60 62 66
SEVEN WAYS TO CELEBRATE SPRING: Fun ideas to enjoy Beaufort County
28 AURORA HISTORY 31
Publisher’s Note The Scene What's in Store Cast a Line What's to Eat Word on Wine Calendar Dining Guide Why I Love Washington
FOCAL POINT OF HISTORY: Aurora celebrating fossil museum, festival
31 SAILOR STORIES 40
TALL TALES FROM THE HIGH SEAS: Sailors share stories of adventure
40 WASHINGTON HOME 46
46 6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
A TRIBUTE TO THE PAST: The Marsh House a peek into colonial times
ON THE COVER A MUSICAL NOMAD | Lipbone Redding’s life one of travel, music. Turn to page 34. (Photograph by Ashley Vansant)
Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Kevin Scott Cutler Matt Debnam Michael Prunka Vail Stewart Rumley Contributors Richard Andrews Colleen Knight Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Theresa Futas Cecilia Prokos Amy Whitaker Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2016, Washington Newsmedia, LLC
A NOTE FROM ASHLEY
THERE’S PLENTY TO EXPLORE
RIGHT HERE AT HOME
I
t was our first free weekend after moving to eastern North Carolina, and we were looking to do a little exploring with the kids. To occupy a few hours on a Saturday afternoon, we turned to an attraction millions of years in the making — fossils. So we hopped on the Bayview ferry to Aurora. It’s hard to believe how much the boys have changed since that trip six years ago. If we had let them stay, they might still be digging for shark teeth in Fossil Park. The Aurora Fossil Museum is reaching some key milestones this year. The museum is celebrating its 40th anniversary while its signature event, the Aurora Fossil Festival marks its 25th year. If you’ve never been before, it’s well worth the trip to see what draws visitors annually from each and every one of our 50 states. If you haven’t been in a while, it’s worth another look. Catch up on one of Beaufort County’s best resources on page 31 (shovel and sifter not included). Music and a wandering spirit have carried Lipbone Redding all over the world. Roots in eastern North Carolina continually bring him home. He’s a storyteller with personality, soul, wit and talent. Get to know Lipbone on page 34. With inviting waterfront communities in Bath, Belhaven and Washington, Beaufort County draws boaters from all over the world. Some ride here on the wind and never leave. Some drop anchor for a spell on their way to other adventures.
Each has a story to tell. Check out some tall tales from the high seas on page 40. Water Street holds some of Washington’s best-preserved history. It’s there the Marsh House has overlooked an ever-changing eastern North Carolina town since 1795. Current owner Dee Congleton, well known for her passion in historic preservation, is the latest steward of the home. Step through her front door and back in time on page 46.
I hope you enjoy this issue of Washington the Magazine and that you have a happy, successful and safe summer on the Pamlico.
Ashley Vansant, Publisher
We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine. 8 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
THE SCENE ALICE STALLINGS RECEPTION In celebration of a lifetime of artistic endeavors, a retrospective of Washington artist Alice Stalling’s work launched with a reception at downtown arts space Contemporary Art Exchange in March. Stallings is known for her breadth and variety of work, having mastered many different genres through her decades of painting, printing, drawing and more. A more comprehensive retrospective is planned for October at Arts of the Pamlico’s Turnage Theatre. Alice and Frank Stallings
Wink and Emily Mayne
Jean Thomas, Dale Harsh and Jennifer Sable
10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Dawn Forrest Dolson, Attila Nemecz, Bennett Carpenter
Debra Torrence and MJ Carbo
Lewis and Sarah Sloan, Jane McCotter
Joey Toler and Sue Nicholson
Allison Baldwin, Jaedon Russo
Ned Irvine and Neil Loughlin
Kendra and Mike Lobos
Tricia Stowe, Emma Stallings Holscher, Sheila Tanner
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11
THE SCENE MEN OF SUCCESS GALA Men of Success’ annual fundraiser and gala drew a large crowd of community leaders and supporters on Feb. 23. The Beaufort County Community College organization’s mission is to promote positive influence and support for the school’s students. Through role modeling, mentoring and developing relationships that positively impact our youth. For Men of Success, the focus is on academic excellence, social responsibility, emotional stability and cultural acuity in daily life and curricular activities.
Theresa Edwards, Rick Anderson
Nicholas Blakford, Sommer Barkley
Saphira Gwaltney, Lisa Struble, John Palombi
12 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Fatima Keyes, Maurice Griffin
Bishop James and Lisa McIntyre
Marian and Bill Booth, Al and Teresa Whitney
Michelle Peele, Leslie Foye, Sierra Hansley, Daniela Sebastian, Celeste Lisa McIntyre, Paulette Evans, JJ Evans Clement
Dorothy Jordan, Tashawna Scott
Jerome Branch, Dawn Branch
Terry Graham, Jeffrey Egerton, Bishop James McIntyre, Gerardo Alvarez, Maurice Griffin
Glenn and Kathy Simpson, Russell and Denyce Smith
Saniya and Jeffrey Egerton
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13
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THE SCENE EMS AND FIRE BANQUET Beaufort County Emergency Services hosted the 2018 Fire and EMS Awards Banquet at Beaufort County Community College on April 14. This annual event serves to recognize the selfless contributions made by emergency workers in Beaufort County each day as they protect our homes and our lives.
EMS Person of the Year Jennifer Paul and Firefighter of the Year Trey Baynor
Diana Burnette, Michael Burnette, Meressa Winfield and Shaun Carroll
Mary Roberson and Erma Nobles
16 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Carol Richardson, John Taylor and Joy Henderson
Shane Grier and Tommy Pendley
Dennis Smith
Julie Ingram, Chrislyn Wedderien, Mike Wedderien and Stacey Peaden
Jenny Williams and Elizabeth Williams
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MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17
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THE SCENE PAMLICO WRITERS GROUP CONVENTION Many of Eastern North Carolina’s most talented writers gathered for a weekend of writing workshops and fellowship during the sixthannual Pamlico Writers’ Group Conference on March 23 – 24. Special guests at the event included North Carolina Poet Laureate Shelby Stephenson and 2018 Heart of the Pamlico Poet Laureate Malaika King Albrecht.
Lane Schroeder, Gil Alligood and Geraldine Alligood
Polly Frank, Pam Desloges, Suzannah Cockerille, Robert Golden and Diane De Echeandra
Malaika King Albrecht and Louis Edwards 20 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Becca Lamoreaux and Marni Graff
Roberta Edwards, Donna Lay and Beverly Horvath
John Williams and Kristie Williams
Kate Ahearn and Bill Ahearn
Vickie Lewis Jones, Jim Keen and Robina Norman
Sherri Hollister and Shane Wilson
Bobbie Gaumont, Christina Ruotolo, Tiffany Kessler and Lorri Kessler MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21
THE SCENE ROTARY REVERSE RAFFLE Rotarians and guests gathered for the annual Washington (noon) Rotary Reverse Raffle held at the Washington Civic Center on March 23. The event, along with the Smoke on the Water barbecue festival and competition, is one of noon Rotary’s major fundraising efforts each year. With a catered dinner, live entertainment, drawings and a chance to win a cash prize of $2,000, the Reverse Raffle always draws a large crowd.
Mac Hodges and David Carraway
Rachel Wood and Liane Harsh
Andy Tingen, Kim Nicholls, Spencer Stanley
Gail Watson and Paul Hager
Elizabeth and Moses Moye
22 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Susan Crawford, Leigh Stanley, Ann Darkow, Lisa Woolard
John Tate and Whit Thomas
Scott Campbell and Cathy McLean
Cornell and Evette McGill
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 23
WHAT'S IN STORE
A piece of
Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED
a. b.
SUMMER BREW Start your early summer mornings or late summer nights with Lancoca Coffee Company, located in Ayden, NC. A variety of teas and coffee can be found and purchased right here in downtown Washington at the Thrifty Gifter. (a.) 10 oz. Lanoca organic coffee from Peru, $10. (b.) 2 oz. Lanoca Tea, Bianca Chamomile, Orange Blend, $7.
OPEN BAR
d.
c. e.
24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
From the bar to your back porch, the Wine Crate provides gifts for yourself and others. Try this bottle from the Wine Crate and cork up what you don't finish with these cute wine corks to keep your wine fresh.. (c.) Anciano Spanish Tempranillo, $18. (d.) The Bar is Always Open bottle topper, $14. (e.) Glass bottle topper, $18.
f.
g.
COMFY REMINDER This throw pillow is the perfect gift for your loved one. You can find this at Cottage Junkies in Downtown Washington for (f.) $36.95.
BENEFICIAL CANDLE Smell like summer with this unique candle that burns and benefits a child in need by providing three meals from Bridgewater Candle Company. You can find this at Cottage Junkies in Downtown Washington for (g.) $28.95
SOUTHERN TOUCH
h.
Southern Grace boutique provides a wide variety of summer jewelry and accessories for women of all ages. Look for these cute initial bracelets for (h.) $12.
JAWSOME STYLE j. i.
Bring in the summer with your kids in style. You can find fun shirts like this one at The Graceful Goose in downtown Washington for (i.) $18.95. Keep up the shark theme and get a cute shark to keep your kids teeth safe for the tooth fairy. (j.) $16.95
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25
l. m.
k.
PERFECT PICNIC Take a stroll down to the Wine Crate to pick up tasty Booze Dogs sausage and pair it with a nice wine for the warm months ahead. You can find New Age white blend tincho (k.) for $15 or Julia's Dazzle Pinot Gris rosé (l.) for $28. Booze Dogs sausage (m.) sells in a variety of flavors and cost $10.99 per pound
SUMMER SALTS Time to relax? Use these calming sea salts for your next bath and exfoliate the day away. Perfect for a gift or personal use, these can be purchased at The Thrifty Gifter for $15. (n.)
26 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
n.
WASHINGTON HARBOR DISTRICT
The Southern Nest Vintage, Antiques, Home Décor, Collectibles, & Gifts Whoever said money can’t buy happiness simply didn’t know where to go shopping ! 133 West Main Street Downtown Washington, NC (252) 940-1486 Hours: Monday – Saturday: 11am – 6 pm Sunday: 1 pm – 5 pm Email: thesouthernnest@earthlink.net
WAYS TO CELEBRATE SPRING
IN BEAUFORT COUNTY
ICE CREAM CONE FROM DAIRY PALACE OR SCOOPS The Dairy Palace is located on Bridge Street just inside Washington’s end of the Pamlico River. It offers everything from a simple ice cream cone to burgers to sundaes. The hole-in-the-wall stop is the perfect place to pickup something to cool down on one of Beaufort County’s toasty spring days. It’s a short distance from waterfront viewing. Those that get a scoop or two of ice cream on a cone should be sure to eat it before it melts. Take a few steps east and another option is Scoops on West Main Street. Serving everything from scoops to sundaes, it's location is ideal for hopping off the boat on the waterfront to grab a quick treat.
28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
WRITTEN BY MICHAEL PRUNKA | PHOTOGRAPHY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY BEAUTIFUL DOESN’T BEGIN TO DESCRIBE SPRINGTIME IN BEAUFORT COUNTY. Serene. Temperate. Lush. Cheerful. Budding. Fragrant. Alive. Vibrant. Now those adjectives begin to scratch the surface. Spring is a time of rejuvenation. Just like the plants and trees bloom with new life, so too do people. Warm weather lifts spirits. Being able to get out and enjoy nature without the sting of the bitter cold is a welcomed shift, especially given this year’s lingering wintertime. There are plenty of ways to enjoy spring in the area. Here are a few items that should be atop the checklist: GRAB A BEER AT BACKWATER JACK’S
SUNSET WALK ON THE WATERFRONT
BILL’S HOT DOGS FOR LUNCH
Backwater Jack’s may be Washington’s
Washington offers one of the most
ON THE WATERFRONT
most popular happy-hour destination. It’s
peaceful ways to finish a day. The
Bill’s Hot Dogs is a hallmark of
a tiki bar, restaurant and a place to enjoy
waterfront is a true jewel of eastern
Washington. Its store on Gladden Street
live music. Patrons arrive via foot, car or
North Carolina. Right off of it are plenty
is a short stride from the river, making it
boat to enjoy a beverage right on Runyon
of places to have dinner, grab desert, and
a perfect place to grab a bite to carry to
Creek.
then marvel in the sight of the sun setting
the waterfront.
It’s one of those stops where people may
over the Pamlico River.
Even those on their lunch break from
think, “Boy, this is a place Jimmy Buffett
There are friendly faces that walk by. The
work should have plenty of time to
would love.” Well, the world-renowned
gentle sounds of the water and the tune
swing by. A hot dog with chili, onions
musician has made a few appearances
of children playing on the playground
and mustard is an ideal lunchtime snack
while in Washington helping to design
provide a joyful soundtrack to an
one can enjoy while taking in the warm,
his yacht from Pacific Seacraft.
evening stroll. People can either walk
breezy weather on a bench or picnic
Backwater Jack’s offers all sorts of beers
from one end to the other, or take a seat
table right in front of the Pamlico River.
— many of which are brewed in North
for a break to enjoy the sun departing
Carolina — as well as a bevy of one-of-a-
for the day. STRAWBERRY PICKING
kind cocktails. GET DIRTY IN AURORA
AT SOUTHSIDE FARMS
PICNIC AT BONNER’S POINT
The Aurora Fossil Museum has become
Strawberry season means springtime
Another in a long list of lunchtime options
the landmark of the small Beaufort
has arrived. It peaks from around April
is a trip to Bath for a picnic at Bonner’s
County town. Families, school groups or
through June. As much as some enjoy
Point. The scenic spot is a sort of hidden
those simply interested in paleontology
the succulent fruit itself, there’s plenty of
gem among North Carolina’s beautiful
can make a whole day out of visiting the
fun to be had spending a few hours in
locations, but one Beaufort County locals
Main Street museum.
Chocowinity picking strawberries to take
are familiar with.
It prides itself in being a hands-on
home.
Bonner’s Point is so picturesque, in fact,
experience, which especially makes it a
Southside Farms is open for strawberry
that it’s a site for weddings. A picnic
hit for the kids. People come from around
picking every day of the week except
offers so much more than a nice lunch
the world to learn about the unique
Sunday. Those who love knowing exactly
with loved ones. There are picnic tables
artifacts it houses. The most memorable
where their food comes from, or just
in the shade allowing folks to take in the
experience often tends to be the pit
want to have fun and get the freshest
sights from Bath Creek. Animal lovers can
across the street, which allows visitors
fruit around, love Southside. It also
also bring their dogs, as they have plenty
to dig for — and take home — their own
offers fun and educational field trips for
of room to run around.
fossils.
schoolchildren. ⋇
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 29
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FOCAL POINT
OF HISTORY
Aurora celebrating fossil museum, festival WRITTEN BY MICHAEL PRUNKA
THE AURORA FOSSIL MUSEUM has become a centerpiece of this small Beaufort County town. It opened its doors in 1978, and in the 40 years since has become the focal point of Main Street.
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31
O
riginally, the building featured only what is now the Native American exhibit. It expanded a year later to add the mining room, with the two connected by a tunnel. Now the Aurora Fossil Museum features a reception area with a gift shop and all of its exhibits. Across the street in another building is a learning center. Across the street, is one of its main attractions: the mounds where fossilseekers can dig for treasure. “It’s more of a complex now. We have a bunch of buildings with a bunch of different fossils, rocks, minerals and the park,” museum director Cynthia Crane said. It’s enjoyed staying power in Aurora that few other businesses and institutions have had. The gradual disappearance of buildings surrounding it allowed for its expansion. Physical changes make up only a portion of the growth. The museum also began an annual event — the Aurora Fossil Festival — that is now celebrating its 25th anniversary. It has grown into an attraction that brings people from all over America, and the world, into Beaufort County. “It’s huge. It’s shaping up to be a huge year for the festival, and for the museum,” Crane said of the Memorial Day weekend event. There will be a parade, food, crafts and other activities. Guest speakers will also be hosted in the learning center. And, of course, cake. “For the museum’s birthday, we’re going to have cake. I always like to find a way to incorporate cake,” Crane laughed. The festival is something the museum builds toward each year, but it’s not the only time fossil fanatics journey to Aurora. Crane said she’s had visitors from China, Russia, Australia and other faraway lands. “A few months ago, we had a family from China. Their son was middle-school aged. He was an exchange student. They
32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
came to visit,” she said. “They were all excited, and he was showing his parents around. … Except for Antarctica, we have visitors from every continent each year, and all 50 states.” Reaching out and drawing in visitors from all over is a mission for the museum. One of the initiatives is a 50-state program, which came about when Crane became director in 2014. Every year, the first visitor from any given state will receive an ornament with the date and state. The museum missed one state in 2016. It had visitors from all 50 states by June last year. This year, as of the beginning of March, there were only 10 states left. “We get thank you letters and cards. It’s a nice thing to do,” Crane said. “We try to get in all 100 counties here, too,
but it’s hard to get to the western side. We average about 84 or 86 counties walking in the door and signing the book.” The western part of North Carolina is reached in one way, though. The museum ships fossils around the state — and the country — for use in classrooms. The Aurora Fossil Museum is so much more than a place for folks to come and learn a few things about paleontology. It’s an organization that strives to reach as far as it can, benefitting educational endeavors as far as it can reach. It also serves a purpose in putting the little town of Aurora on the map. It makes it, and Beaufort County, a destination. That’s what this year celebrates: 40 years of the museum, the 25th anniversary of the festival, and a lifetime of experiences. ⋇
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A MUSICAL
NOMAD
Even in his travels to far out places such as India, Guatemala and New York City, Lipbone Redding has always maintained roots in Eastern North Carolina. MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35
I tell stories and through my work I hope to convey a sense of sharing through feeling. Music is pollen. It germinates ideas. Music shatters and also inspires belief. It is beauty. It is paradox. It is truth. — Lipbone Redding in the “Essential Lipbone Traveler"
Of his trusty guitar, Redding says, “It’s got a lot of spit and sweat and stuff on it.” 36 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Lipbone Redding’s life one of travel, music WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOGRAPHY BY ASHLEY VANSANT
A
man sits on a stool on a stage, guitar in hand and harmonica by his side. A faded brown fedora rests on long, curling locks of hair, slightly askew to one side. A suitcase of merchandise sits nearby, filled with an array of items all bearing the name LIPBONE. Add a decked out van, an inquiring mind and a wandering spirit, and you have Lipbone Redding in a nutshell. But chances are, he won’t stay there for long. A natural born traveler, with the soul of a poet, catching Redding in one place is like catching lightning in a bottle. Bringing forth a sudden and intense burst of fun energy at a downtown bar or a concert hall, he might be gone the next day, on to the next adventure. As an artist, the music of Lipbone Redding defies categorization. All original lyrics blend with unique vocalizations that can mimic the trumpet and scat singing of Louis Armstrong one moment and Mongolian throat singing the next to form a genuinely entertaining and engaging performance. “In a lot of my songs, I’m very just kind of happy-go-lucky,” Redding said. “If you listen to the music, it’s really kind of good-time music.” Redding first picked up a guitar as a teenager, giving voice to the songs that he carried in his head and his heart. With fellow singer Michael Clark, Lipbone got his start in a duet in high school, just to experience the pure enjoyment of singing. It was at this time that a teacher by the name of Ms. Ipock turned him on to an album by James Taylor called “Dad Loves his Work.” One particular song, “That Lonesome Road,” spoke to him on a deep level. This album, along with the works of Arnett Coleman and James Cherry, served as inspirations for Redding as he developed as a musician. “I’ve had this succession of moments in my life where music has just made me turn a corner somehow,” Redding reflected. “They just caused a realization.” A native of eastern North Carolina, the lowlands are Redding’s stomping grounds. At the ripe age of 20, he travelled to the Great White North, spending time in Montreal, Canada, giving him his first taste of life in the big city. Returning home to North Carolina, Redding was on track to study theater at East Carolina, but soon found himself yearning for more of what he calls “the exciting life.” It was during this time that he began writing poetry and songs of his own, finding his own voice. “I had a hard time with other people’s words coming out of my mouth,” Redding said. “It was probably very egotistical, selfish and naive and young of me, but I felt very strongly about it.” As he began writing more and more, the big city life began calling to him again. Chasing the excitement, he soon found himself in New York City, where he spent three years playing music in the city’s subway system. With thousands of people passing by every day, and maybe a few stopping to listen, this was a place where care was in short supply. MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37
For a taste of Lipbone Redding’s musical styling’s, check out “Dogs of Santiago,” “Party on the Fire Escape” and “The Subway Song.”
Lipbone Redding performs at Backwater Jack’s, kicking off the restaurant’s live music season in April. PHOTO BY MATT DEBNAM
“It’s really a humbling experience,” Redding said. “I realized I have a lot more weaknesses than I thought I did. It makes you focus on the inconsistencies and things. I think as artists it’s our job to get past the ego of things. We’ve got to realize it’s all just a process, and we’ve always got to work on making ourselves better. That’s the lesson I learned from the subway.” Throughout his time playing in the New York subways, Redding says he always maintained roots in eastern North Carolina. Even during that time, he still held travel as his ultimate goal. On Sept. 11, 2001, the terrorist attacks that shook the United States also had profound impact on the young artist. “I think that was the big indicator to me that it was now or never that I needed 38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
to do some more adventuring,” Redding said. “So right after 9/11 I started to travel full time.” This new awakening pushed him to new places and new experiences, leading him to South America, California and all across the United States. From living in spiritual communities with hippies to crashing with friends, Redding found himself a bonafide traveler, going everywhere he could to see what life was about. “I ended up going to India for about a year travelling, and that really changed my perspective,” Redding said. “After about five years of that, I came back, and I went to New York City. Again.” Ultimately, these travels have helped shape Redding into the person he is today, opening his mind to new
experiences and ways of living, something he might have missed out on staying in small-town America. “I think I’m a nomad,” Redding mused with a laugh. “I really do think I’m a modern nomad. I get the most excitement out of going. I have this RV I call the Beautiful Flying Machine, and I can’t tell you the feeling I get when it's time to go out on the road. I just hop in that thing and feel like anything’s possible.” Most recently, Redding’s travels took him to Spain for a three-week tour in April. Upcoming destinations in 2018 include Arizona, Colorado and New Jersey. To follow Lipbone in his travels, visit www.lipbone. com or follow him on Facebook @lipbonereddingmusicmaker. ⋇
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TALL TALES FROM THE
HIGH SEAS WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY MATT DEBNAM 40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
Sailors share stories of adventure
OF THE MANY THINGS THE LOCAL TIDES BRING TO BEAUFORT COUNTY, beyond the flotsam and jetsam, the boats are most interesting. More fascinating still, are the intrepid souls who call them home. Modern day explorers, some still living in the age of sail; many who come here have stories to rival the greatest adventures. Some are coming, some are going, and some have set down anchor for the foreseeable future. They have faces you may recognize. Some have been here for months, weeks, even years. Motorized or under sail, Pamlico and Pungo they call their homes, and at least for a little while, Beaufort County can share their company and hear their adventures. While each might fill volumes with tales of their voyages, to the best they may be abridged, these are the sailors’ stories.
The Mystic, home to Randy and Jenny Ramirez, rests at anchor near Belhaven. MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 41
SWAN
Hans De Bruin first brought his trawler,
niche for himself on the Washington Waterfront.
Swan, into the Pamlico in October 2016 under
As to where he comes from, that is a long
inauspicious conditions. A Dutch flag flying, he
story. He first left the Netherlands 35 some years
was trying to beat Hurricane Matthew to safe
ago, on a sailboat, “not equipped for anything,”
harbor. The storm that devastated eastern North
not speaking a word of English. He says most of
Carolina was barreling north and De Bruin was
his time has been spent exploring the Atlantic
looking for a place to hole up.
and Mediterranean, the Gulf of Mexico, as well as
“I was in the Pamlico Sound and the hurricane
making several solo ocean crossings that marked
was threatening,” Hans recalls. “I thought I
him as a skilled mariner. He found work when he
would come a little bit inland into Bath and hide
stopped and chartered trips to earn his bread.
out there because it’s free docking. Being Dutch,
“My last guest is now my wife,” Hans said.
I’m frugal as hell and I thought I might as well go
“She was also there on a sunset trip and we kind
for the cheapest way.”
of sort of fell in love with each other.”
He found another free two days at the
It was after all this, that he was ready to trade
Washington Waterfront Docks. It was then
in the sails for the trawler, a common practice for
that Hans says, “I fell in love with it a little too
many boaters as they get older. While his wife is
much. I like Washington, so I’m still here after 17
at home in Merrimac, Massachusetts, Hans is en
months.”
route to the Chesapeake for the summer, but he
In that time, he says he has made a lot of friends. With easy access to some services and a bicycle for everything else, Hans has made a nice
is confident he will be returning to Washington. “I like to live the life I’m living,” Hans said. “I’ve just made so many friends here.”
MYSTIC Randy and Jenny Ramirez first met in Sausalito, California, in a
out from Simon’s Town, South Africa, on the longest leg of its
coffee shop called the Lighthouse Cafe. Randy
voyage. For 59 days and 6,000 miles, the boat
had purchased his boat, the Mystic, in 2007
remained on a broad reach from South Africa
after falling in love with sailing in his mid-30s. At
to St. John.
the time, Jenny was in possession of a one-way
“It was one of the most blissful sailing trips
ticket to Tahiti, intending to hitchhike around
we have ever had,” Randy said. “We set the
the Pacific on sailboats. That first meeting led
wind vane to 135 degrees and never had to
to new plans, however, and the two began to
touch it the whole time.”
prepare the Mystic for its greatest voyage.
Eventually making their way to New York,
On Feb. 8, 2010, they set out under the
the two flew back to the West Coast to visit
Golden Gate Bridge to a new adventure.
friends and family, then delivered a boat from
Hanging a left, they made their way to the Sea
the Philippines to Washington state. Making
of Cortez before taking to the open seas on a
their way back to the East Coast via bicycle,
heading for the Marquesas.
the two married along the way and fell in love
“When we got to the equator, we jumped
with eastern North Carolina while volunteering
in the water and swam across the equator at
at the Ocracoke Music Festival. After two years
about two in the morning,” Randy recalled with a smile.
away from the Mystic, they found their way to Belhaven.
Pushing on to New Zealand and Australia, the two had a big
“Eventually, we’re going to be too old to do what we’re doing,
decision to make when they arrived in Singapore. They could
so we want to get a little piece of land, do some farming and
either continue north, staying in the Pacific, or head west into the
have some chickens,” Randy said. “We still want to keep sailing,
Indian Ocean. They chose the latter, making Sumatra, Sri Lanka,
but we want to have a base. That’s what we’re looking at here in
the Maldives, Mauritius and Madagascar their ports of call.
Belhaven. The waterways and the people have been just really
Rounding the Cape of Good Hope, the Mystic eventually set 42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
nice to us.”
DILIGENCE From Seattle, Washington, to Little Washington, the name Diligence has followed Mike and Lisa Taylor a long way. The first Diligence, a 32-foot boat built by Mike in 1970,
The second Diligence, which Mike and Lisa still live aboard today, had hot and cold running water, electricity on demand and room to breathe at 51 feet. Together, the Taylors spent a
carried the couple across the Panama Canal in
good part of their children’s younger years
1989. The crossing cost them $38. Eventually
traveling the Bahamas and the Eastern
landing in Green Cove Springs, Florida, the
Seaboard, the James River and Chesapeake
two began setting down roots in anticipation
Bay. Their travels eventually brought them to
of Mike’s retirement.
Elizabeth City. Having been homeschooled for
“We started a family, got a house and did
years, the kids wanted to try something new.
what normal people do,” Lisa recalls with
“They wanted to see what a real high
a laugh.
school was like,” Mike said. “We let them go to
This was before a chance encounter that
Camden High School for the last two years.”
would change the family of four’s lives forever.
With their son currently in the Coast Guard
Stepping into her daughter’s room one night,
and their daughter starting her own family, the
Lisa found a Christian magazine opened to
Taylors decided to pull up anchor and make the
an article entitled “Sailing to Serve,” which
easy run from the Albemarle to the Pamlico. For the past year and a half, Washington has
documented the life of a family living on a sailboat. Talking to her son and daughter about the idea, they
held them over before their next voyage in May, which will
were excited. Together the three woke up a sleepy Mike and
take them to OBX and, in Lisa’s words, “Wherever the wind
popped the question.
blows us.”
“He sat right up and said ‘Really?’” Lisa said. “We had done
Although they may be gone for a while, the Taylors definitely
it before in a 32-footer without children, but that’s when we
anticipate returning to Washington, which they say is one of the
had to find a bigger boat, because that 32-footer did not have
more boater-friendly places they have experienced.
what this one had.”
“We wish there were more Washingtons,” the couple agreed.
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43
For David Brooks, Plan B is a 27-foot sloop
to church. As he met people from the area,
rig sailboat currently docked at Dowry Creek
Brooks found himself settling in at the marina
Marina. In 2013, a series of life changes brought
and falling in love with the area. From making
him to the vessel. With a boat docked in Smith
friends in church to picking his banjo with the
Falls, Ontario, Brooks decided he wanted to
Beaufort County Traditional Music Association,
spend the winters somewhere warmer.
he quickly found his niche.
“When I was growing up, which was quite a
“The first year I was here, I just went to
while ago, you had a plan that you were going
listen. The second year I bought a banjo and
to do this and that and if that didn’t work, you
started learning it,” Brooks said. “I make a lot
fell back on Plan B,” Brooks said. “When all else
of mistakes, but they were understanding,
fails you go to Plan B, so basically I went to my
sympathetic and helped me with tips here and
boat when I want to relax. That’s my Plan B: is
there. It’s just a genuinely nice community here
to get off on the boat and forget about the rest
and in Washington.”
of the world.”
A frequent festivalgoer, Brooks enjoys going
After Brooks found Plan B in Maryland, he
to local events; he says the area’s friendly
began sailing south in 2013 on the day after
people, beautiful scenery and cost of living
Black Friday. Breaking ice with the boat as he
are refreshing from some of the places he has
sailed out of the harbor, he made his way to
traveled.
the Chesapeake amidst breakdowns and small
“It’s just absolutely beautiful,” Brooks said.
craft advisories. It was February by the time he
“Somehow the air seems fresh and clean. I
sailed into Dowry Creek, where he was instantly
just get that feeling. I haven’t felt nervous
impressed with the marina’s hospitality.
wandering around Washington or Belhaven
The owner at the time offered him access to a loaner vehicle to go get groceries and go
MAGGIE
PLAN B
alone. Some of the bigger cities, I don’t feel that safety.”
After a lifetime of adventures on the water, all
share that particular bond of boating. ”
the comforts of home make Maggie an ideal vessel
From New York to Florida, Brown and Wilson
for Michelle Brown and Brent Wilson. Currently
have logged many miles in their time. The two
anchored at Dowry Creek Marina, the two now call
purchased Maggie four years ago and have called
Belhaven home for the foreseeable future.
the houseboat home ever since. Today, they enjoy
“We’ve had several boats separately and
visiting with other Dowry Creek Marina boaters
together,” Brown said. “A houseboat just seemed
during happy hour, trading stories of adventures
appropriate for this stage of life. We’ve travelled
over good food and good company.
a lot on the Atlantic coast, and we’re not so
“The first trip of 30 or 40 I have made up and
much interested in traveling as comfortable living
down the coast was maybe the most memorable,”
aboard.”
Brown said. “We stopped in Belhaven, and I
The two both have extensive backgrounds on the water. While Brent was a lobsterman in Maine,
certainly never forgot that. There’s something that’s unique to this area, to eastern North Carolina.”
Brown spent her adult life in New York, where she
That was in 1979, and while Brown has been
worked on the Erie Canal. At 86 years old, Brown
many places since then, she says that she feels
was the first woman to receive her captain’s license
like she really never left Belhaven. Although the
in the state of New York, earning that credential
two don’t have any plans for voyages by sea in
in 1986.
the near future, they will embark on a grand tour
“I owned and operated a fleet of excursion
of the United States and Canada by train in May.
boats, giving people rides on the Erie Canal,”
Maggie and Belhaven will be waiting at the end of
Brown said. “It was all wonderful. The waterfront is
the tracks.
nothing if not interesting…When you make friends
“We love it here, specifically right here at Dowry
on the waterfront, you’ll generally meet them
Creek,” Brown said. “As far as I’m concerned, this
somewhere else, and it’s like you’ve never left. You
is my place.”
44 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
IMAGINE Images of John Lennon adorn a number of the interior walls of
North America and “the safest long-distance voyage on the planet,”
Mike Castleberry and Karen Hansen’s 40-foot Nebo
this promises to be one of Imagine’s crowning
trawler. Imagine that.
adventures.
“This it the third or fourth Imagine we’ve had,”
“We planned on staying here so we wouldn’t
Castleberry jokes. “That way we don’t have to think
retrace our steps,” Karen said. “With family here we
when we change boats.”
thought this was a good place to be.”
The two have been sailors their whole lives; this
Stretching approximately 5,600 miles, the
is the first motorized vessel they’ve owned together.
epic journey will take Mike and Karen to 20 states
With Coconut Grove, Florida, as her hailing port,
and two Canadian provinces. The Loop can take
Imagine has docked three times in Washington,
anywhere from nine months to a year, taking sailors
including its most recent visit. Since setting sail
up the Hudson, across the Erie Canal on the Great
three years ago, this Imagine has carried the pair
Lakes, down the Illinois, Mississippi and Tennessee
to the Florida Keys, the Bahamas, across Lake
rivers to the Gulf of Mexico and around Florida.
Ocachobee.
The two left Washington fully provisioned and on a
The vessel’s greatest voyage so far has been full navigation of the Downeast Loop, from the Statue
northerly heading in early April. Whether a year or longer, the journey will
of Liberty along the Hudson to Lake Champlain, the St. Lawrence,
ultimately see the Imagine cross its own wake in Washington. Not
Nova Scotia and along the coast of Maine.
only will this “tie the loop,” but it will also bring them back within
From there, they came south to Washington in time for Thanksgiving last year, waiting out the winter for their next voyage: the Great Loop. Called by experts the ultimate boating experience in
reach of Castleberry’s mother and family, who all reside in Raleigh. “It’s a good place,” Castleberry said. “The dock guys are good, and this is a cute little town.” ⋇
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The Marsh House is one of the oldest structures in Washington. The home was not a casualty of the Civil War, like many others of that era, simply because Union officers were residing there.
46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
A TRIBUTE
TO THE PAST The Marsh House a peek into colonial times STORY AND PHOTOS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
S
ince 1795, the Marsh House has been a tenant of Water Street, in an area known centuries ago as “Pungo Town.” It, along with its neighbors, the Myers House (circa 1780) and the Hyatt House (circa 1785) have stood sentinel over the point where the Pamlico River begins to widen, where ocean-going vessels once docked to unload goods from far-off lands, crossing seas again to deliver North Carolina’s economic windfall — naval stores such as tar, turpentine and wood. These homes have witnessed war and weather, in devastating hurricanes; they’ve seen the waterfront evolve from bustling docks to lumber mills to disuse to a renaissance in waterfront, downtown living in Moss Landing.
In the early 19th centur y, the landscape here was remarkably different. Instead of sitting just a few feet off of Water Street, the Marsh House perched on a slight rise above the river, its sloping front yard extending down to the waterfront where the Marsh ships were docked. The home itself, however, has changed little, both inside and out, since its construction in 1795. From foundation walls made of ballast rock used to weight ships, to the dental moldings along the cornice and porch pediment, the Flemish-bond style brickwork and weatherboards of heart pine and cypress, the home remains true to its Federal roots.
Inside is no different: a central hall boasting original wainscoting and stair banister branches off to high-ceilinged rooms and wide, heart-pine plank floors. When the Marsh brothers, Daniel and Jonathan, moved to North Carolina, they brought the architectural influence of Providence, Rhode Island, with them. The Marsh House stair hall replicates one found in the Stephen Hopkins House (circa 1755) in Providence; the parlor is home to a replica of the fluted pilasters and woodwork of the Benjamin Cushing house in the same town. It’s a house with history, culled from near and far away; its continued state a testament to generations of preservation. In the 223 years of its
MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 47
The view from these windows would have been much different in 1795 when the Marsh House was built. Today, it sits across from the North Carolina Estuarium. Then, it perched atop a slight rise, its yard sloping to the Marsh family shipping docks on the river.
existence, only three separate families have called it home. “This particular house, I love the rich history of it, the detail of the workmanship that have gone into, for example, the mantel, the raised paneling in the hall. There are just so many good details that you can’t find in a house today,” said Dee Congleton. Dallas and Dee Congleton purchased the Marsh House in 1996. Before that, it was owned by the Wynnes — first Frank Wynne, then his granddaughter, Gwynne Stephens Taylor, who, as part of her master’s thesis in the 1980s, restored the house to National Trust preservation guidelines. Prior to 1942, however, the home was passed down to generation after generation of Daniel Gould Marsh’s descendants. It was Taylor who had paint chips from the walls
48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
A key to the past: antiques dating back to the 1700s, many of them made in eastern North Carolina, are right at home in the Marsh House. Part of its charm comes from the builder’s native Rhode Island as can be seen in the original mantelpiece pictured in the background. MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49
The backyard of the Marsh House is nearly an optical illusion, its charm and views of the St. Peter’s steeple prompting visitors imagine they’re in an English garden in the country as opposed to a backyard in the heart of town. 50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
No one knows if this is the actual cannonball that penetrated the Marsh House during the Civil War, but the hole in the weatherboard that it occupies is an original — the board and its injury have never been replaced.
analyzed and found that the color of the hall wainscoting was burnt red in the newly constructed Marsh House; it was returned to that color. The wood floors aren’t coated with polyurethane, but sanded, buffed and waxed, instead — just as they would have been in the 1800s. “If you’re not neat people, that would be a disadvantage,” Dee Congleton laughed. Both she and Dallas, who passed away in 2013, were dedicated to the continued preservation of the Marsh House. They had a long appreciation for historic structures, even finishing out the interior of their River Acres home with wood floors, beams and other architectural details removed from an 1800s-era farmhouse in Martin County. “We liked to say that we practiced using materials, never thinking that someday we would have a historic home,” Congleton said. Their shared appreciation of historical detail, which extended to a museum-worthy collection of antiques, landed them the Marsh House. Congleton knew of the Marsh House — it was one of three historic homes she just knew she’d love
to own one day. That day happened shortly after her retirement, when a mutual acquaintance informed her the owners intended to sell. “She called me one afternoon, and she said, ‘Miss Dee, you’d better call the homeowner of that house, because they’re going to sell it.,’” Congleton said. The Marsh House never went on the market; instead, it was an interview between Taylor and the Congletons that sealed the deal. “They came and had tea to see if we would be a good fit,” she said. “They did not want (to sell to) anyone who would’ve knocked out walls and destroyed the integrity of the house.” Congleton’s dedication to the Marsh House is evident the moment one walks through the front door; between rooms graciously appointed with antique furniture dating back to the 1700s, original architectural details and the honeybrown patina of its wide-planked floors, it’s like stepping back into the colonial era. The view from the Marsh House may have changed over time, but inside, it remains the same — a tribute to the past, lovingly preserved. ⋇ MAY/JUNE 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51
CAST A LINE
Such a unique resource, all our own
S
STORY AND PHOTO BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS
cenery like this is common on the water while fishing the Pamlico. Pictured is sunrise on the Pamlico. As residents of the Pamlico River, we are so blessed by the natural resources that the river provides. It provides some a livelihood, some with recreation and some a sense of place and home. Many local anglers have enjoyed fishing on the Pamlico for generations. Its relatively undeveloped shorelines, quaint waterfront communities and bountiful wildlife create an attraction that is irresistible for nature lovers. As a guide, I primarily carry anglers from outside of our area, many of whom have never been to Washington, much less fishing on the Pamlico River. With each new fishing party, I am always eager to hear their initial impressions of the area. Both beginner anglers and those who have traveled all over the world to fish are typically overwhelmed by the sheer beauty of the river, its tributaries and, if the fish do their job, our fishing. We have such a unique resource, and each citizen in our community has a responsibility to protect and preserve it for the future. One of the highlights to our fishery is its diversity. We have options ranging from panfish in the creeks on ultralight spinning gear to big-game species such as tarpon and giant red drum on heavier tackle. We also have many great options for fly fishermen. From striped bass on topwater to schooled-up speckled trout on subsurface, we have those opportunities in late spring and early summer on the Pamlico. On any given outing, anglers can catch speckled trout, puppy drum,
52 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
flounder and stripers on artificial or live baits; croaker, spot, sheepshead, black drum, spadefish, tautogs and gray trout on baited two-hook bottom rigs; bluefish and Spanish mackerel on trolling gear or casted artificial baits; tarpon on fresh cut bait; or giant red drum on fresh cut bait or popping cork rigs. Targeting a specific species is always a fun hunt; however, sometimes just leaving the dock with an open mind with no specific expectations can yield lots of pullage and a cooler filled with a variety of fish. Exploring the depths of the sound on pretty days for the saltier species is just as much fun and getting up in a
creek and catching largemouth bass and white perch. We have so much variety that choosing what to do can sometimes be the most daunting challenge to your day. Get out and fish the uncrowded, pristine waters of the Inner Banks in the summer. In my opinion, it’s a great alternative to the overcrowded beaches and a great way to see one of the best parts of North Carolina’s coast. Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com. ⋇
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WHAT'S TO EAT
SUMMERTIME DINING DELIGHTS WRITTEN BY KEVIN SCOTT CUTLER | PHOTOS AND FOOD PREP BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
T
he summer months bring with them endless opportunities to entertain friends and family. There are graduation parties, wedding celebrations, reunions, and well, practically any occasion that calls for good food and cherished company. This issue’s recipes are a hodgepodge of tantalizing favorites, perfect for large parties or more intimate gatherings. Several may require a delightful visit to any of a number of local farmers’ markets, unless you are among those fortunate enough to grow these treasures right in your own back yard. Grilling out-of-doors is a must for the summer season, and these recipes showcase several suggestions for main courses as well as side dishes. You really can’t go wrong with any of them, since they were carefully selected from the Washington Daily News’ Pamlico Pantry collection of cookbooks published by area churches and other nonprofit organizations. Enjoy! ⋇
54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
STRAWBERRY HOMEMADE ICE CREAM Richard Gavin Smyrna Original Free Will Baptist Church, Blounts Creek
2 cups fresh strawberries; 1 cup sugar; 1 can Eagle Brand milk; 1 teaspoon vanilla; regular milk (amount as needed); dash of salt. Chop strawberries in a large bowl and add sugar, milk, vanilla and salt. Mix well. Add regular milk as needed. Chill and put into ice cream freezer.
SPICED ZUCCHINI BREAD Mae L. Morgan Beaufort County Grange #`1233
3 cups plain flour; 1 teaspoon salt; 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon; 3 eggs; 2 cups zucchini, shredded; 2 teaspoons vanilla; 2 teaspoons baking soda; 1/2 teaspoon baking powder; 2 cups sugar; 1 cup vegetable oil; 1 (8-ounce) can crushed pineapple; 1 cup chopped pecans. Combine flour, soda, baking powder, cinnamon and nuts. Set aside. Beat eggs slightly; add sugar, oil and vanilla. Beat until creamy. Stir in zucchini and pineapple. Add combined dry ingredients; stir until moistened. Spoon into well-greased and floured pans. Makes two (9x5x3) pans. Bake at 350 degrees for about one hour. Cool on rack.
MINT JULEP Billy Jones St. Thomas Episcopal Church, Bath
Bourbon; Mint Syrup; mint sprigs for garnish. For each serving: 1/2 cup bourbon, 1 tablespoon Mint Syrup in crushed ice, with mint garnish. Mint Syrup: 1 1/2 cups coarsely chopped fresh mint; 2 cups sugar; 2 cups water. Tie mint in cheesecloth bag and place in sauce pan with sugar and water. Bring to a boil and stir constantly until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, cover and let cool. Discard mint bag and refrigerate syrup. Yield: 2 3/4 cups.
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PEPPER RELISH Pat Capehart Saint Peter’s Episcopal Church, Washington
12 red bell peppers; 12 green bell peppers; 3 hot peppers; 12 onions; boiling water; 2 cups brown sugar; 3 tablespoons salt; 2 pints vinegar. Clean peppers of seeds and stems. Grind onions and peppers in meat grinder or use food processor. Pour boiling water to cover onions and peppers. Let stand for five minutes; strain. Add brown sugar, salt and vinegar. Boil 15 minutes. Seal in sterilized jars. Yield: four pints.
ROSEMARY & BLACK PEPPER LAMB CHOPS Linda Medlin The Wilkinson Center, Belhaven
8 (1-inch thick) lamb chops (about 1 3/4 pounds); 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil; 2 tablespoons rosemary, chopped; 1 teaspoon ground coriander; 1 teaspoon kosher salt; 1/4 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper; 2 garlic cloves, minced. Preheat grill to medium heat (350-400 degrees). Place lamb chops in a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil; sprinkle with rosemary and coriander, salt, pepper and garlic. Toss well to coat. Let stand 30 minutes. Place chops on a greased grill rack, cover and grill three to four minutes on each side for medium rare (145 degrees); eight minutes for medium (160 degrees); 10 minutes for well done (170 degrees). Remove from grill and let stand five minutes. Serve with mint jelly. Delicious!
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BAKED ASPARAGUS WITH BALSAMIC BUTTER SAUCE Carol Tillman The Wilkinson Center, Belhaven
1 bunch fresh asparagus, trimmed; cooking spray; salt and pepper to taste; 2 tablespoons butter; 1 tablespoon soy sauce; 1 teaspoon balsamic vinegar. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Arrange asparagus on a cookie sheet, coat with cooking spray and season with salt and pepper. Bake 12 minutes in the oven, or until tender. Melt butter in a sauce pan over medium heat. Remove from heat and stir in soy sauce and vinegar. Pour over baked asparagus to serve. *Cook's note: add freshly grated parmesan.
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WORD ON WINE
SUMMER GRILLING, PA I R E D W I T H W I N E
T
HONEY GRILLED CHICKEN BREASTS Peggy Williams Hodges Chapel Pentecostal Holiness Church, Chocowinity
1/4 cup orange juice; 3 tablespoons honey; 2 tablespoons lemon juice; 2 tablespoons soy sauce; 1 tablespoon ginger (peeled and minced); 1 tablespoon bottled garlic; 6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves; salt (to taste); coarse ground black pepper (to taste). Combine all marinade ingredients in a large bowl. Add chicken breasts, poked full of holes with a fork. Turn meat over and over in marinade to coat well. Transfer meat and marinade to plastic zip-lock bag. Seal and make sure meat is laying flat in bag with marinade over it. Marinade at least four hours in refrigerator, turning several times. Bring to room temperature before grilling. Grill three inches from heat source for four to five minutes per side or until meat temperature reaches 160 degrees. Remove to platter and let stand five minutes before serving. 58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
he days are hot; the nights are warm; company’s on its way and dinner’s on the grill. There’s no doubt the season transforms the summer-lover’s culinary experience, bringing people together to celebrate the beautiful outdoors. But when food hits the grill, the grilling process can also change its flavor. Traditional, cooler-weather wine pairings might not fare as well. However, that stronger flavor can be balanced with more savory wines. A steak grilled to perfection over charcoal? Red wines go with red meats; of that, there is no doubt, but not every red is going to make for a perfect pair. For leaner cuts of meat, a light or medium-bodied red is suggested, such as a Rosé or Zinfandel. A full-bodied red — Cabernets, Merlots, Malbecs — will enhance fattier cuts of beef with their bold, earthy flavors. Eastern North Carolina has a longstanding claim of superior barbecue, but what will balance its vinegar-based zing? Bubbles. A dry Champagne, cava or prosecco will promote ENC barbecue’s unique flavor without cutting its much-loved zest. If you’re not a fan of bubbly, American red blends are the next best choice. Pork ribs marinated in tomato-based sauce — again, go for the “big reds” such as Zinfandel, Malbec and Cabernets. A lighter touch may be needed with barbecue chicken, as in a full-bodied Chardonnay, but if the chicken is marinated in a tangy, citrusy sauce, then an American Sauvignon Blanc is the better choice. With the Pamlico Sound just a boat ride east and the Atlantic Ocean just a barrier-island away, this region has plenty of access to fresh seafood. Striped bass is plentiful in the Pamlico; its mild flavor won’t be overwhelmed by a Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. Those in the mood for picking blue crab straight from the Pamlico — steamed with a healthy dose of Old Bay Seasoning — should head for the dry whites: Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and, again, a dry Champagne, prosecco or cava. Make the most of your summer culinary experience by adding the perfectly paired wine to the mix. Happy grilling! ⋇
APPLE SALAD Janice Smith Beaufort County Grange #1233
4 medium apples; 1/3 cup pecan pieces; dash of salt; 1 cup seedless raisins; 1 cup salad dressing; lettuce (optional). Core and dice apples; mix with raisins, pecans and salad dressing. Add dash of salt. Serve on bed of lettuce or in individual dishes.
GRILLED TERIYAKI PORK RIBS Donna Gorham Washington Pediatrics
6-8 country style pork ribs; 1 tablespoon meat tenderizer; 1 teaspoon black pepper; 1/2 cup teriyaki sauce. Slice ribs lengthwise and sprinkle with tenderizer and pepper. Put in a bag or bowl and cover with sauce. Refrigerate overnight. Put ribs on a hot grill and turn every five minutes until tender and done. Note: serves 4-6 people.
Parks & Recreation
OUT & ABOUT
CALENDAR MAY
All Month
BCTMA Jams Turnage Theatre Th u r s d ay n i g h t /S at u rd ay morning jams. Open jam Thursday night from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. There is no admission fee. Sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. For more information, visit www.bctma. org/ or call 252-946-2504.
River Roving Tours
NC Estuarium Learn about the history and habitats of the Washington waterfront. These boat tours cruise the Pamlico River Wednesdays through Fridays at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., and Saturdays at 10:30 a.m. No admission fee or other cost is involved for the tour, but advance reservations are required. Riders should check in 15 minutes in advance. Children must be at least 6 years old to ride; a responsible adult must accompany children under 16. Call 252-9480000 for reservations. Go to www. partnershipforthesounds.net/ for information.
Queen Anne’s Revenge Traveling Exhibit Historic Bath The 300th anniversary of the sinking of Blackbeard’s flagship is underway with a tour of artifacts recovered from the vessel Queen Anne’s Revenge. The traveling QAR exhibit will be on display in the new Historic Bath Exhibit Hall (formerly the northwest wing of the old Bath High School) until May 31. The exhibit is free. Call 252-923-3971 for more information.
Every Week
Farmers’ Market Downtown Washington The Farmers’ Market is fun for the whole family. It is a great place to spend the morning talking with local farmers or maybe searching for a unique present. Our market features local growers of fresh fruit, vegetables, plants and flowers. You never know what might find, the products are always changing! Saturdays from 8 a.m. to noon. Call 252-947-1487 for more information.
Rock the Pamlico Turnage Theatre Tuesday night jam sessions from 6:30-8:30 p.m. Join area musicians in this great jam set to some of the best rock music! Free. Call 252-946-2504.
May 4
Cinco de Mayo Eve Party Backwater Jack’s Tiki Bar & Grill Come join the party and listen to live music with The Still Shakers, 7 p.m.
May 5
1st Saturdays Historic Bath Visitors Center Educational programs and crafts — a great way for children to learn about the area’s rich history. Call 252-923-3971 for more information.
Cinco de Mayo Cruises Belle of Washington Come aboard The Belle of Washington for the Cinco de Mayo Lunch Cruise at 11 a.m. or the dinner cruise at 6 p.m. Visit www. eventbrite.com/o/pamlico-cruisesllc-belle-of-washington-8364557891 to reserve a spot.
Kentucky Derby Gala Fox Hollow Farm Sponsored by the Humane Society of Beaufort County, 4 p.m. Come watch the race at Fox Hollow
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Farm. Bets can be placed, best hat prize and best dressed couple prize. There will be hors d’oeuvres from 4-5 p.m., followed by dinner. Silent auction and prizes for best hat and more. Tickets are $60 each. Call 252-943-7225 or go to www. umanesocietyofbeaufortcounty. com.
15th Annual Rock-A-Thon
The Blind Center of North Carolina The Fight for Sight! Rocking for a Cause will be held from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. at The Blind Center, located at 221 N. Harvey St., Washington. Rocking for a Cause offers a familyfriendly day of meeting the clients we serve, shopping with local vendors and crafters, delicious lunch plate sale, homemade ice cream, face painting, corn hole and more! For more information, contact Liz Liles at 252-946-6208 or email director@theblindcenter. org. Information may also be found at www.theblindcenter.org.
May 10
Senior Dance Washington Civic Center Singles and Couples over 50 are welcome to come and dance the night away. 7 p.m., admission is $8. 50/50 drawing; door prizes; no alcohol/no smoking/no children.
May 12
Washington Garden Club Herb & Plant Sale NC Estuarium Pass along plants, pots and gently used gardening tools for sale. 9 a.m.-1 p.m. Call 252-948-0000.
May 18-20
Pirates on the Pungo Regatta Belhaven A three-day sailing regatta being held in Belhaven for the 17th
year! Boats of all sizes, including dinghy racers, will be welcomed to Belhaven for a weekend of fun, sailing, entertainment, dancing and good food! Call 252-944-0005 for more information or visit www. regattanetwork.com/event/15658.
May 19
Bath Fest Historic Bath This Town of Bath event features craft vendors, free house tours, crafts, performances and other activities! 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Free of charge. For more information, call 252-923-3971.
May 25
‘Pink Floyd: The Wall’ Turnage Theatre Join us as Rock the Pamlico presents ‘Pink Floyd: The Wall” (1982) at 7:30 p.m. There will be a pre-movie Pink Floyd jam in the theater at 6:30 p.m. $5 at the door. May
25-27
Annual Aurora Fossil Festival Aurora Fossil Museum/ downtown Aurora Food, music, educational events, lecturers, dancing, entertainment and more. Wonderful parade and breakfast honoring our veterans that served the country. Lawnmower pulls, car shows and lots of other surprises for the entire family. Call the Chamber Office at 252-322-4405 or the Aurora Fossil Museum at 252-322-4238 for more information.
May 26
Memorial Day Celebration Historic Bath Greater Bath Foundation hosts this Memorial Day Celebration with musical entertainment by The Embers followed by fireworks over Bath Creek.
May 28
Memorial Day Sightseeing Cruise The Belle of Washington Memorial Day isn’t just about enjoying a long weekend; it’s a day for remembering the men and women who have sacrificed their lives to protect our freedoms. All food sales for the day going to support a local charity. Guests will enjoy the beauty of the Pamlico River during a relaxing one-hour cruise. A variety of burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches, snacks and beverages are available. Veterans or active duty service member with ID will receive a special thank you from us! All tickets must be purchased in advance. Four cruises at 9:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 2:30 p.m. and 6 p.m. Reserve a spot at www.eventbrite.com/o/ pamlico-cruises-llc-belle-ofwashington-8364557891.
May 28
Memorial Day Ceremony Veterans Park Honoring all veterans, join us for the annual Memorial Day ceremony at Veterans Park in Washington. 11 a.m.
JUNE
All Month
BCTMA Jams Turnage Theatre Th u r s d ay n i g h t /S at u rd ay morning jams. Open jam Thursday night from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. There is no admission fee. Sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. For more information, visit www.bctma. org/ or call 252-946-2504.
River Roving Tours
NC Estuarium Learn about the history and habitats of the Washington waterfront. These boat tours cruise the Pamlico River Wednesdays through Fridays at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., and Saturdays
at 10:30 a.m. No admission fee or other cost is involved for the tour, but advance reservations are required. Riders should check in 15 minutes in advance. Children must be at least 6 years old to ride; a responsible adult must accompany children under 16. Call 252-9480000 for reservations. Go to www. partnershipforthesounds.net/ for information.
Farmers’ Market
Downtown Washington The Farmers’ Market is fun for the whole family. It is a great place to spend the morning talking with local farmers or maybe searching for a unique present. Our market features local growers of fresh fruit, vegetables, plants and flowers. You never know what might find, the products are always changing! Saturdays from 8 a.m. to noon. Call 252-947-1487 for more information.
Rock the Pamlico Turnage Theatre Tuesday night jam sessions from 6:30-8:30 p.m. Join area musicians in this great jam set to some of the best rock music! Free. Call 252946-2504.
June 1
Summer Library Program Brown Library Collaborative Summer Library Program Registration begins. Children ages 3-12 and teens ages 13-18 are invited to register for our summer programming between the hours of 9 a.m. and 6 p.m. “Libraries Rock” with be the theme for all of our summer events. Call 252-946-4300.
June 2
Ride for Rose Haven. Downtown Washington Cycle the roads of Beaufort County during full spring bloom at this fundraiser for Pamlico Rose Institute for Sustainable Communities’ ride to benefit Rose Haven, a reintegration house for female veterans. For more information, visit www.facebook. com/events/129925991031883/.
Dinner Cruise The Belle of Washington Come take a voyage down the Pamlico River with us. Guests will enjoy the beauty of the Pamlico River during a relaxing cruise. Buffetstyle dinner will be provided by one of our local restaurant or catering partners. A variety of beverages are also available and sold separately at the bar. 7 p.m. All tickets must be purchased in advance. Visit www. eventbrite.com/o/pamlico-cruisesllc-belle-of-washington-8364557891 to reserve a spot.
Movie Night
Historic Bath Watch the blockbuster hit “Pirates of the Caribbean” (2003) on Blackbeard’s old stomping grounds. Call 252-923-3971 for more information.
June 8-9
35th Annual Washington Summer Festival Washington waterfront This annual event includes a street fair, live music, fireworks, family entertainment and more. For more information, visit www. wbcchamber.com or call 252-9469168.
June 8
Washington Comedy Fest Turnage Theatre Join Arts of the Pamlico for an outrageously funny Comedy Fest during Summer Festival 2018 in little Washington. 7 p.m. 252-9462504.
June 12
Inner Banks Music Academy Presents The Blind Center Come and join us as we enjoy the talents of the children of our community. 10 a.m. Free admission Call 252-946-6208 for more information.
June 14
Senior Dance Washington Civic Center Singles and Couples over 50 are welcome to come and dance the
night away. 7 p.m., admission is $8. 50/50 drawing; door prizes; no alcohol/no smoking/no children.
June 16
BBQ Festival Historic Bath Join us in North Carolina’s oldest town to celebrate the region’s famed food at the BBQ Festival. Call 252-923-3971 for more information. Community Day, Havens’ Gardens 3-7 p.m. Sponsored by the Washington Police Department and the City of Washington. Free hot dogs, drinks and chips. Free music, entertainment, vendors and more.
June 17
Father’s Day Brunch Cruise The Belle of Washington 12:30 p.m. What better way to spend time with your dad than on the Pamlico River enjoying delicious food, awesome scenery and being on a boat full of other dads? Join us for a delicious brunch cruise complete with a Build Your Own Bloody Mary and Make Your Own Mimosa Bar. Price includes a river cruise, brunch buffet and one complimentary Bloody Mary or Mimosa. www.eventbrite. com/e/fathers-day-brunch-cruisetickets-43221037286
June 25-29
Summer Camp Historic Bath Join campers for this day camp in North Carolina’s oldest town. Call 252-923-3971 for more information.
June 30-July 1
NC Sunflower Festival Raised in a Barn Farm We are celebrating our 2018 Sunflower crop planted on the farm with our annual festival. Games, pageants, entertainment and more! 10 a.m. For more information call252-945-6153 or go to http:// www.raisedinabarnfarm.com.
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DINING GUIDE
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DINING GUIDE
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DINING GUIDE
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DINING GUIDE
SHARE YOUR RESTAURANT WITH WASHINGTON
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WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON
A friendly and most welcoming place WRITTEN BY COLLEEN KNIGHT | PHOTOGRAPH BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
W
hen my husband first took a job in Greenville, he said to me, “Don’t worry. I know exactly where we are going to live!” You see, he had been to Washington years earlier to interview with a local boat company. While he didn’t take that job, the day and a half that he spent in Washington was more than enough time to make a lasting impression on him. I can easily understand why. There is so much to love about Little Washington. As an artist, I am proud to boast that there are 10 unique art galleries where you can find everything from tobacco stick stars, to fine handcrafted jewelry, pottery, stunning paintings and other two-dimensional art pieces. Washington is home to many artists, all embraced and supported by an active community. The Arts of the Pamlico located at the historic Turnage Theatre is the heart of our arts community. There is always something going on there, exhibits, art classes, music; the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association jam session every Thursday evening and Saturday morning is an amazing assemblage of local talent. If traditional music isn’t your thing, there are the concerts put on by the Beaufort County Concert Association and Improv Comedy performs the first Saturday of each month. AOP hosts a writers group, community theatre, Broadway on the Big Screen, multiple art and theatre camps for kids... There is something to please everyone, all you have to do is check the calendar. Washington is also steeped in history. 66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2018
We have one of the largest commercial and residential historic districts in the state. The community’s commitment to preserving Washington’s 512 historic properties is undeniable. When we purchased our home in the historic district — well, let’s just say it needed some work. Our biggest surprise, though, was the community’s reaction to our renovation. People we hadn’t met would stop by the house and knock on the door just to thank us. People would come up to us in restaurants and on the street to ask how the house was coming along. We heard lots of stories about previous owners
and dinner parties people had been to in our home. The love and appreciation we felt from the community was inspiring. There is much to love about Washington. After-dinner strolls along the waterfront to watch the sun set over the Pamlico, fire-pit nights and cocktails on the porch with friends are some of my favorite activities. The people here are among the friendliest and most welcoming I’ve met. Whether they are lifelong residents or transplants like us, retirees or young working people, there is a real sense of community spirit in this wonderful city. We are all in this together. ⋇
Professional Solutions
Because you deserve exceptional health care Right here, close to you Being a true system of care means more than simply providing health care services. It means bringing better health and wellness directly to you, close to home. At Vidant Beaufort Hospital, we’re delivering access to specialty services like gastroenterology, oncology, orthopedics, outpatient rehabilitation and urology where you live. Because our goal isn’t just to treat disease, but to prevent it in the first place. And that improves the lives of everyone in eastern North Carolina.
Call 855-MYVIDANT (855-698-4326) for an appointment with a doctor near you. VidantHealth.com
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