Washington the Magazine

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CRABS

Washington has crabbing in it's blood JULY/AUGUST 2013 Washington, North Carolina

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With less land available for crops, how will farms keep pace with the demand for food production?

Phosphate plays an integral part in the global food solution.

By providing an essential crop nutrient, PotashCorp-Aurora enables farmers to be more productive with fewer acres of land. We’re doing our part to help feed the world, right here

Helping nature provide.

in eastern North Carolina.

As you enjoy a meal with your family – consider the many healthy food items made available through the production of phosphate.

IN THIS ISSUE

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS 48

20 62

40

18

14 ALL ABOUT CRABS 20 28

34

37

The Blue Crab: A way of life on the Pamlico Queen of the Soft Crabs: Crab ranch known for quality product Amongst Friends: Residents of all ages enjoy the bounty of crab from the river

Shopping 14 Pinch yourself:

All the crab items you ever wanted

AT HOME 40

Feels like home: Home owners couldn't resist their personal B&B

In the ARTS 58

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 9 44 47 54 55 66

Crab pots to crab pottery: Artist inspired by native crabs

FOR YOUR HEALTH 62

'Blessed to be here': Silver Sneakers keeps seniors active

Publisher’s Note The Scene Cast a Line Word on Wine Calendar Advertiser Index Why I Love Washington

LET'S EAT 48

How to: From steaming to catching, a guide to getting crab on the plate

Crab love: Crabs from the Pamlico, to the table

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ON THE COVER Brooklyn (left) and Katie Bowes make an afternoon visit to check crabpots with their Dad. Read more about their life on the river in "The Next Generation," page 35.

(Photo by Ashley Vansant) 4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

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Live A Little

NOTE FROM ASHLEY

Celebrating our crabby culture

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his is a crabby place.

That much is clear when you first pull into town. Drive around Washington for any length of time and you’re sure to be greeted by a larger-than-life crab standing on the corner in front of a local business or organization.

Remnants of a public art project and painted by local artists, each of the statues has its own unique personality, but all reflect Washington’s deep connection with the shallow-water creature.

Crabbing is a way of life in Washington.

Commercially, its part of a multi-million dollar industry, contributing mightily to the economy of our coastal region. Many make a living off the abundant blue crabs of the Pamlico River. Their stories begin on page 20.

Recreationally, it’s a tradition shared by generations. Pulling up a pot filled with blue crab brings excitement — and dinner. The girls on the cover of this issue learned the ropes of pier crabbing from their father, who grew up on the river learning from his. Read more about

them on page 35.

Anyone with patience and a few bucks can bring home crabs fresh from the Pamlico. Learn the ins and outs of drop-lining and crab pots with a how-to on page 38.

Out of the water, a few simple steps can put a blue crab on the table ready to eat. Steam your crabs Carolina-style with a walk-through on page 37.

Whether you catch your own, or purchase from one of our local fresh seafood vendors, there are plenty of ways to make a meal of the delectable lump crabmeat. Check out some recipes from those who know best, your friends and neighbors, starting on page 50.

I hope this summer allows you the opportunity to celebrate your crabbiness. Until next issue, may your lines be heavy and your pots full.

Ashley Vansant Publisher

would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write We thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine.

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WASHINGTON T

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Publisher Ashley Vansant

Editorial Mona Moore Vail Stewart Rumley Mike Voss Contributors Kevin Scott Cutler Will Preslar Advertising Director Kathryn Powell Marketing & Sales Brandi Bragg Ed Drew Nate Harrell Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Ryan Webb Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2013, Washington Newsmedia, LLC

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THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

North Carolina Symphony on the waterfront A repeat performance by the North Carolina Symphony brought umbrellawielding crowds to Festival Park on June 9. The symphony’s return to the waterfront and a reception beforehand were both sponsored by PotashCorp-Aurora.

The concert was the final event in the Washington Summer Festival weekend.

Catherine Glover and Jackie Woolard

Ron Griswold, Wayne Stoeckert, Phyllis Schulte and Kath Griswold

District Attorney Seth Edwards and Charlie Griffin

Caroline Anthony and Dave Nicholls

Mike Morgan and Alice McClure

Ed and Eltha Booth, Dr. Kirk Harris

Jeanne and Galen Niederhauser, Robin and Ray McKeithan

Julie Howdy and Penny Sermons

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 9

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Spring Heat Car and Truck Show Classic automobile enthusiasts from throughout Beaufort County and surrounding areas turned out for the May 18 Spring Heat Car and Truck Show, held at Chocowinity Middle School. The event was organized by the Chocowinity Volunteer Fire Department and proceeds will be used to purchase equipment.

Jacob Pendley and Caleb Pendley

Bryan Oesterreich and Roger Schlobin

Randy Cox and Billy Weaver

Dara Williams and Tyler Williams

Colin Rivenbark and Chris Rivenbark

Larry Jones, Charlie Elks and Brian Avery

10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Brent Oliver, Wayne Oliver and Vicki Oliver

Haleigh Pendley, Darlene Elks and Regina Elks

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

BCCC Foundation Legacy Luncheon The Beaufort County Community College Foundation recently brought together about 75 of its donors, scholarship recipients, members of its Board of Directors and local business women and men who have supported Foundation events through the years at a Legacy Luncheon.

Gladys Carowan Howell, Travis Maddox and Betty Blanton

Mandy Jones and Katrina Spencer

Helen Sommerkamp Inman

Sandria and Brown McFadden

Christy Smith and Susan Gerard

Jane and Bill Page and Timmy Woolard

Paul Spruill and Dysoaneik Spellman

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Chocowinity Tractor and Farm Show The "good old days" were relived May 11-12 during the Beaufort County-based Eastern Antique Power Association's annual tractor and farm show in Chocowinity. The proceeds of the show will help fund a similar event for area developmentally- and physicallyhandicapped individuals this fall.

Tricia Cutler, Ernest Cutler and Gregory Cutler

McKinlee Cox, Linda Robbins, Stan Hudson and AvaHaiyes Cox

Tillie Moore and Duncan Moore

Josh Griffin, Dink Arrants and Merton Canady

Walker Hill and Kayle Radcliff

Justin Whealton, Courtney Respess, Seth Hudson, Kaleb Weston and Sara Hudson

Chester Smith and Virgil Tucker

12 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Juanita Tripp, Kaelynn Dunn, Jesse Tripp, Tripp Dunn and Maria Dunn

Thomas Walker and Carl Cayton

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Crime Stoppers Golf Tournament Beaufort County Crime Stoppers held its 17th annual golf tournament fundraiser on April 16 at the Washington Yacht and Country Club. Twenty-four teams participated in Crime Stoppers’ biggest fundraiser of the year.

Vicki Waters and Shannon Carter

Mike Davenport and Josh Shiflett

Thomas Waters, William Woolard and Dexter Moore

Ed Hamrick, Karen Ball and Jimmy Oakley

Ray McKeithan and Jay Martin

Rex Woolard and Dennis Allen

Crime Stoppers board: first row, left to right, Linda Judson, Vicki Waters, Jennifer Evans, Shannon Carter, Joyce Moore, Karen Ball, Mary Daniels, Rena Smith; second row, Linley Gibbs, Sherry Tyson, Ed Hamrick, Sammy Corey III, Miek Gwynn, Amy Bonnie and Jimmy Oakley JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

United Methodist Women Dinner First United Methodist Church held its United Methodist Women Dinner and meeting. This year’s event featured guest speaker Rev. Laura Early and a fashion show from members of her church, All God’s Children UMC.

Debbie Ryals, Robbins Rees, Georgie Clagett and Judy Tunstall

Laura Davis, Lorre Bowen and Rev. Laura Early

Hilda Merritt, Margie Yates, Linda Alligood and Bessie LeVictore

Karen Kovaly, Connie Howard, Ruth Gilfillan, Joyce Jump, Katherine Adams, Mary Catherine Williams and Mildred Spivey

Brenda Bernhardt, Lauren Riddick and Claire Darrow

Ramona Cayton, Barbara J. Smith and Marlene Farrior

Front row, left to right: Dawn Landen, Kristen Smithwick, Pam Shadle, Jennifer Ball, Angi Gibbs, Nicole Jackson and Catherine Glover. Back row, left to right: Hannah Tubaugh, Kennedy Blount, Susan Hill and Angela Hultigan 14 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Summer Festival Summer Festival turned 30 years old this year, drawing thousands of people despite some rainy weather. The festival, one of Washington’s signature events, is a fundraiser for the Washington-Beaufort County Chamber of Commerce, which organizes the event that takes place the second full weekend in June. Known for its festival food, it also provides entertainment, carnival rides and more.

Jeff New

Dwight Minor and Tracy Mackey

Cecilia and Katina Prokos

Washington City Council members Edward Moultrie and William Pitt

Tripp and Josie Belote

Derrick Myers

Devin Jessie, Amanda Sanders and Rodney Sanders

Justin and Jason Merrill

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 15

WHAT’S IN STORE

Knock it out Give your front door the finishing touch with this iron doorknocker. You won’t miss a guest at the door and your guest won’t miss your nod to Washington.

Available at Nauti Life, 112 West Main Street, Washington. $15.95

Pinch yourself Written by MONA MOORE PHOTOS by WILL PRESLAR

Buckle up Your love for river life and quality accessories will be evident with this American-made leather belt with a crab motif. Find the belt at Russell’s Gentlemen’s Clothing, 118 West Main Street, Washington. $30

16 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Crabby chic You will find yourself on someone’s best-dressed list in this T-shirt. Printed on the back of each shirt: “Get a little crabby in Washington, NC.” What else is there to say? The shirts may be found at Hot Mess in the Little Shoppes of Washington, 127 West Main Street, Washington. Tees are $10.

Get carded Each card features a Brenda Haislet watercolor. The Washington artist captures area landmarks like Pamlico Rowing Club and the Purser’s Chest. There are even a Bill’s Hot Dogs and a pre-fire and pre-hurricane Irene McCotter’s Marina. Bonus: Haislet’s “Blue Crab” greeting card includes a recipe for her crab bisque. Cards are available at River Walk Gallery, 139 W. Main St. in Washington. They range in price from $2 to $2.50.

Pretty cool If your fondest memories are of times spent at the river, this crab fan is meant for you. From his big bold claws to the funny red “eyes” on top of his head, crab is a completely unique piece of handcrafted art that is as fun as it is functional. This crafty crustacean comes complete with a two-speed fan to bring that cool river breeze indoors. (Sorry, deck chair and dock not included.)

Now at Nauti Life, 112 West Main Street, Washington. $69.95

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17

WHAT’S IN STORE

Tall tales The love for river life comes early. Foster that love with “Crabby & Nabby,” the tale of Nabby, a blue crab that lost his claws and, Crabby the friend who helped him. Kids will love coloring pages from the adventures of Clean Water Charlie, Tammy Turtle and Billy Bluefish in “Color with the Crabby Lady and Friends.” Both are part of Suzanne Tate’s nature series and illustrated by James Melvin. The books are available at the North Carolina Estuarium gift shop, 223 East Water Street, Washington. Coloring book, $3.95. Book, $4.95.

Crustacean sensation Nothing says coastal North Carolina like these shore creatures

by Sign of a Beach. These locally made wood signs will brighten any corner. Find a wide selection at Unique Gifts and Framing on Main Street in Washington. $84.95.

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Well traveled Who says souvenirs can’t be practical? Not the folks at Pamlico Pantry. There, you will find dishtowels and recipe holders displaying the Washington crab that will remind your visitors of the great time they had in Washington.

Pamlico Pantry is located in at Little Shoppes of Washington, 127 West Main Street, Washington.

Recipe holder, $24.95. Towel, 11.95.

Color splash The easiest way to give your room a fresh look is with a throw pillow or two. The colorful design is the work of artist Jen Callahan. The 18-inch x 18-inch pillow has a 100-percent cotton cover for easy care. Available at Nauti Life, 112 West Main Street, Washington. $40.95

Bowled over What’s a crab dip without a laidback crab bowl in which to serve it? Best of all, they are microwave and dishwasher safe. These bold, bright and beautiful bowls are bound to be at Unique Gifts and Framing on Main Street in Washington. $12.95 and $14.95.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 19

THE BLUE CRAB A blue crab tests its boundaries.

Wet burlap is kept over the crabs to help keep them wet on their way from river to Ranch.

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JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21

ALL ABOUT CRABS Atlantic blue crabs spill out of a box onto the grading table at the Crab Ranch.

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The Crab Ranch, as seen from the dock on North Creek.

A way of life on the Pamlico

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Written by VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | Photographs by WILL PRESLAR

illions of people a year flock to the eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay, drawn by the lure of cool waters and the promise of steamed Chesapeake blue crab. Crabs are the driving force behind the region’s tourist industry.

But little do those tourists know — as they happily crack crab claws and wash Old Bay down with a frosty brew, as they take in the view of the bay — little do they know, more likely than not, that succulent lump

of crabmeat dripping butter didn’t come from anywhere near that bay.

It came from here.

“If you eat crabs in Maryland, theres a very good chance it’s Carolina blue crab,” says Neal Sawyer, displaying a tray of soft crabs destined for Baltimore that very night.

Sawyer is a grader at the Crab Ranch, a crab dock on North Creek near Bath. It’s perched on the shoreline — its dock leading up to an open-air structure where crabs are sorted, graded, weighed by

the box before they hit the walk-in refrigerator, one more box of live crabs in a stack of the same.

Blue crabs are one of North Carolina’s most valued commodities; their share of the commercial fishing industry is worth $30 million a year.

Roughly 10 percent of that bounty comes from the Pamlico River. And for many generations, blue crabs have sustained a way of life on the shores, and on the waves, of the Pamlico.

But it’s by no means an easy life.

By dawn of every day during crab season, commercial crabbers are on JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 23

Stacked crabpots make their way to the open waters of the Pamlico River.

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A crabber uses a catch stick to snag a crabpot float during his daily rounds.

the river. From the blustery rains of March to the stifling midday heat of August, they’re checking crabpots, emptying catch into crates, restocking bait, tossing pots overboard, only to start the same process over again seconds later. On his own, it’s an awkward dance from the moment a crabber snags the float with a catch stick, to the moment, pot overboard again, he pilots his boat out of its holding pattern in the water.

By pairs, it’s no less demanding: straightlining has two crabbers manning one side of the boat, dividing the work. If timed right, there’s not a pause between tasks, between crabpots, as the boat makes its way down a line of pots.

It’s tough. It’s physical. And it only sometimes pays off.

Seasons can be fickle. In July this year, crabs had yet to make their presence known in the Pamlico — it’s only the price of crabs hovering at an all-time high that made a trip out on the water worthwhile. Last year, it was the opposite: crabs were in by March and by the end of May, the season was essentially over.

“I’ve seen crabs not come in until August. Last year, it was March,” says Debbie Wilkins, owner of the Crab Ranch. “We had more crabs than we knew what to do with.”

The Crab Ranch is quiet on this breezy July day, a sunny break in a long series of rainy days. Sawyer watches the creek, smoking, waiting for the crabs to show up.

A couple of crates unloaded onto the plywood decking from the back of a pickup and Sawyer unfolds his tall form and strolls over to table. Crabs spill across the scarred plywood, brandishing their pinchers, but Sawyer pays their aggression no mind as he picks and sorts: No. 1s are jimmies (male crabs), big ones, close to 6 inches and more from tip to tip of the carapace; No. 2s are a little smaller but still over the 5-inch requirement; No. 3s are sooks (female crabs); and culls, which is everything else that made it into the pots.

“The No. 1 grade is the money crab,” Wilkins laughs.

No. 1s are selling for $3 a pound, even if the crabs haven’t yet arrived in any real numbers.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25

Blue crabs come off a boat at Gum Point.

But when they do, based on North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries statistics, there will likely be fewer crabs than last season.

The crabbing industry is on the decline. Over the past 17 years, the number of crabs in the Pamlico has dropped dramatically.

At the industry's height in 1996, 8,188,298 pounds of hardshelled blue crabs were caught in the Pamlico River. Seafood was a $10 million industry in Beaufort County and 90 percent of it came from the sale of blue crab. A series of hurricanes — Bertha, Fran — in 1996, followed by more — Dennis, 26 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Floyd, Irene — in 1999, is thought to have disrupted the blue crab habitat enough to start its decline.

By 2011, commercial fishermen only captured 2,808,104 pounds of blue crab in the Pamlico and the industry pulls in less than half of what it made during the peak years.

At one time, the Crab Ranch had three grading tables, three sets of scales and graders working each.

Crabbers could pull up pots full of crabs not once, but twice a day — and with the numbers of crabs hitting the tables, Sawyer worked at the Crab Ranch 60 to 70 hours per week. Now, it’s more like six or seven

hours.

“Used to be you could crab during the season, sit back, hunt during the winter,” says Shannon Latham, a third-generation crabber. “Now, after you crab, you had better have a job.”

The disappearance of crabs from the local waters has had far-reaching effects: at one time, Belhaven had 30 crab-picking houses, now crabprocessing facilities are few and scattered across the county. Crabpot businesses have shut their doors, unable to find buyers.

“There’s no comparison,” says dispatcher John Sadler, a 20year veteran with Evans Seafood

Neal Sawyer and William Foster carry a box of live crabs from the grading table to the scales. Foster, from Pamlico Beach, said his family has been fishing the river for too many generations to count. “As far back as I can remember,” Foster says.

Company. “There’s no comparison in the last five years. Five years ago, we were doing five trucks a night to Baltimore.”

It’s two trucks a night now, and that’s having expanded the company’s service area, picking up seafood from Wilmington to Elizabeth City to take up North.

Washington Crab Company owner Tony Tripp said five years ago, blue crabs made up 50 percent of his business. It’s at 20 percent now but Tripp has made up for the loss by expanding his retail business in eastern North Carolina.

There’s no doubt about the

decline, but what’s causing it?

“I attribute it to water quality,” Tripp says. “There’s just a lot of common sense that needs to be put in place. When you’re spraying chemicals on the road to kill grass and you’re in eastern North Carolina and it rains — where do those chemicals go?”

Some have placed the blame on over-fishing; others, calling the shrinking numbers part of the episodic ups and downs of nature.

But one key element in the blue crab habitat is missing: submerged aquatic vegetation. Seaweed.

It used to populate the river

abundantly, so much so it was a nuisance.

But it always gave blue crab a place to hide, a place of protection for the young members of the species, a place to forage.

There are 20,000 less crabpots in the Pamlico this year than last year. Every season, 10 to 15 more crabbers check their pots for the last time. A diminished stock can only support so many. Latham may be a third generation crabber, but when asked if his children will follow in his footsteps, he says, soberly, “I hope not. I want them to get an education.”

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 27

ALL ABOUT CRABS

Debbie Wilkins, owner of the Crab Ranch and Debra’s Soft Crabs, Inc., is known from Florida to New Jersey as the “queen of the soft crabs.”

Queen of the soft crabs 28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

A molted shell and the newly emerged soft crab displayed side by side shows the abundant difference in size. Soft crabs are the money makers for Wilkins and local crabbers.

Crab Ranch known for quality product Written by VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | Photographs by WILL PRESLAR

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he best way to get run out of the Crab Ranch is to pick up a crab without permission.

Beneath a shingled roof on the shore of North Creek, fortyplus water-filled trays are stocked with crabs — peelers molting their hard shells in the ongoing cycle of growth. It’s a delicate process which, if interrupted, can have fatal results.

Stick your hand in the water and pull out a crab and that just may happen.

But if it does, you risk the wrath of

Debbie Wilkins, owner of the Crab Ranch and Debra’s Soft Crabs, Inc. Nobody messes with her babies.

Wilkins is known from Florida to New Jersey as the Queen of the Soft Crabs. It’s a reputation she’s earned over 30 years, since she set up her shedder operation just east of Bath.

Her stock comes from local crabbers; she sells to wholesalers “up North.”

Maybe she’ll sell to a local once in awhile, but she has to look you over real good before she’ll even consider it.

As with any specialized industry, there’s a cant involved: peelers, busters, red hots, slabs, whales, hotels. Wilkins rattles off the words, along with prices and statistics; she points out the bright red coloration along aprons and the crease of fins that indicate a crab is about to shed its hard shell. She’s an expert in her chosen profession, which she says she got into rather by accident.

However she stumbled upon the Crab Ranch, it’s the attention she pays to the wellbeing of her peelers JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 29

Wilkins, in conversation with a local crabber, oversees the soft crab nursery 24 hours a day, seven days a week.

that sets her product apart. Debra’s Soft Crabs, Inc. is an FDA-approved business, no mean feat, Wilkins says.

In her crab-shedding operation, called a shedder, a constant flow from overhanging spigots keeps many shallow trays supplied with well-oxygenated water. Even so, the peelers must be moved to another clean tray every day. The plank floor is scrubbed with bleach daily; the trays are constantly patrolled to cull out molted shells and soft crabs ready to make their journey North.

These crabs, in their delicate state, have to be watched 24 hours a day, seven days a week. And to get the best product is all a matter of timing — collecting the crabs at an ideal point after molting. These crabs need to be able to survive a 30 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

refrigerated trip by truck, and their bodies must retain their signature softness for a week to 10 days, the expected time it takes to go from Debra’s Soft Crabs to a softcrab sandwich special at any given restaurant on the Chesapeake Bay. “She keeps them alive longer and gets them softer,” says Neal Sawyer, a grader at the Crab Ranch.

And it’s why her soft crabs are in demand — even by the highest office in the land. Before President George W. Bush left office, a high-end caterer specifically requested Wilkins’ soft crabs for a White House dinner.

The business is not without its ups and downs, Wilkins says. In 2011, the shedder was destroyed by Hurricane Irene. What’s there now is a complete rebuild. While the demand

for soft crabs has not lessened over the years, the supply has dwindled, but that’s served to drive up prices, keeping businesses like hers, and the local crabbers supplying the crabs, afloat. Since Wilkins pays top dollar for peelers, her supply is as constant as the daily hauls allow.

“The price of these crabs is staggering right now,” Wilkins says.

Wilkins says “whales” — premium-grade, large soft crabs — are selling wholesale for $46 a dozen, a price that fluctuates slightly on a daily basis. Given that one waxed-cardboard tray of whales is worth approximately $100 right now, a single box holding six trays represents a significant amount of money.

So precautions are made: The

A box of live soft crabs bound for Baltimore.

crabs' temperature is kept at 52 degrees, enough to slow down their metabolism. Each tray is lined with wet newspaper beneath and on top of the rows of soft crabs — usually pages of the Washington Daily News.

But no matter how careful the packaging, a certain percentage of the crabs will die during transport.

Between loss and overhead, including freight, a booming market and decreasing supply, the threat of hurricanes one trajectory away from ripping the business out from beneath her, Wilkins is kept on her toes.

“It’s a crazy business to be involved in,” Wilkins says.

But to be known as the Queen of the Soft Crabs — that has to make it worth it.

A sign advertising the wares at Debra’s Soft Crabs, Inc.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31

Blue crabs fresh from the river. On crabbing boats, wet burlap is used to keep the crabs wet because they don’t survive too long out of the water.

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JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33

ALL ABOUT CRABS

Photo by Scott Clark

Amongst friends

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Written by VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | Photographs by ASHLEY VANSANT

’ve covered many stories for the Washington Magazine in the past two years, all of them unearthing interesting threads in the fabric that weaves together a description of a place. So when the “crab” edition of the magazine first came up in an editorial meeting, I thought, “Well, that’ll be easy.”

In part, it was. It turns out I knew next to nothing about the commercial side of crabs. But catching? Cleaning? Picking crabs? Easy.

Until college, I spent every summer of my life at Hawkins Beach, that last enclave of houses on the north side of the river just west of Bath Creek. Sometimes our vacation lasted three weeks, other times, it was three months, but it was always at Hawkins Beach where my mother’s family, the Kuglers, has owned land since, well, forever.

I remember wading through yards of thick seaweed, hoping against hope that no crab pinchers would find my feet

34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

before I made it out to deeper water. I watched my mother, Franke, standing knee-deep in the river with her two sisters, Vail and Reid, cleaning crabs for that night’s dinner — one pulling the shell off; the next, removing innards; the next, rinsing the crab clean in the river.

My brothers would both chase me down the beach, crab in hand, its pinchers prepared for the grab. But that was okay, because I did the same to them. And I was bigger. Not so anymore, but I can’t remember a time when I didn’t know exactly how to pick up a crab without getting pinched. Now their girls are learning the same.

I picked crabs with neighbors simply because there was nothing better for my 13-year-old self to do on a sweltering August day.

In the crab industry’s heyday, I’d walk to the end of the pier and flag down Keith Pridgen, a family friend who crabbed during the summer months, and just like that, a box of live crabs would make its way from his boat to our

pier — a feast.

That’s all to say that blue crabs have been an integral part of my life, as they have been for many who grew up on the water.

But as an adult, I’ve developed a rather strange habit when it comes to those social gatherings centered around steaming and picking crabs: I don’t eat as I go.

Instead, I pick, and pick, and pick some more, until a great mound of pure white crab meat sits on my plate.

Friends look at me funny.

They envy the growing pile.

But in the end, it all works out because they all get a share in the labor. Don’t get me wrong — I love crab from our river as much as the next person, but even the freshest, most delectable lump of perfectly steamed, impeccably seasoned crabmeat, slathered in melted butter and dusted with Old Bay, doesn’t hold a candle to just sittin’ and pickin’ and sharing amongst friends.

T

hey can’t wait until Daddy gets home.

It’s summertime and Katie, 5, and Brooklyn, 3, have a mission: checking, counting, studying the number of crabs in the pots set at the end of their pier on the Pamlico River. It’s already become a tradition in this young family, but it’s a daily tradition reserved for Daddy and his girls.

The Summerhaven home of Jeff and Lauren Bowes is a special place, and it’s also where Jeff Bowes spent his childhood.

Traveling east of Washington, Summerhaven is one of the many small, secluded neighborhoods dotting the river’s northern shore from the county seat all the way to the Pamlico Sound. When the Bowes were first married, the couple lived in Greenville. Now, they wouldn’t give up their river life for any city attraction.

“The girls would never have been able to experience this if we lived in the Greenville area — having the opportunity to fish and crab, so readily available,” Lauren says.

Every day, Katie and Brooklyn anxiously await their father’s arrival home from work because it’s then that they can get some serious one on one time (or, in this case, two on one time), as Jeff teaches his daughters all the

The next generation cool stuff he learned growing up on the river.

“It’s their favorite thing to do.

The girls wait for Dad to come home and they go out and check crabpots together. It’s their thing to do with him,” Lauren says. “Their excitement pulling up crabpots is like Christmas, opening up presents.”

Lauren laughs as she talks about how she and Jeff assumed that when they took over the Bowes family home to start a family, they would be raising boys on the river. It didn’t work out that way. But the daily tradition of checking the four crabpots at the end of the pier has allowed a deeper father-daughter bonding than they expected.

The river knowledge passed down from Jeff Bowes to his daughters casts a wider net, too. The girls are well-versed in drop lining, or chicken neckin’, as well as loading up bait for the crabpots at the end of the pier. It's all fodder for the crab competition that crops up between neighborhood kids as they pull up pots simultaneously and compare crab numbers versus baits used. But when drop lining is on the schedule, visitors best beware: the Bowes girls know best. Exerting independence at their age means not only doing everything themselves, but

Jeff Bowes with Brooklyn and Katie. The girls look forward to checking the crabpots with Dad every day.

instructing visitors as to how to do it — the right way.

For Lauren and Jeff, making the most of the river’s bounty has been part of their relationship from day one, when their group of college friends would come down to Washington to spend some time hanging out on the river.

Jeff and Lauren are still hanging out on the river, but now they’re hanging out with their girls, counting crabs and watching for mermaids under the full moon.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35

Far less reasons

“

It’s the funnest thing to do, because you do it on the porch; you spread out newspaper on the table and it’s messy and fun. You don’t dress up — it’s casual.

People can bring a side salad or dessert, but the main feature is picking and eating crabs.”

So says David Norwood, who’s lived on Broad Creek for 32 years. And for those 32 years, his entire life has revolved around the vagaries of the Pamlico River and its many tributaries. Norwood owns Carolina Wind Yachting Center — a marina off West Main Street in historic Washington offering slips, yacht sales and chartered boats for the recreational sailor.

David and Nancey Norwood were drawn to the area, first by an invitation from one of David’s friends that evolved in a whole-scale move from Iowa to coastal Carolina.

“I would say that crabbing, or tasting steamed crab for the first time, was a huge part of what brought Nancey and I to Washington in the first place. Sailing on the river and eating steamed crabs. I’d never tasted anything so good in my life,” Norwood says.

“We pretty much went back to Iowa and packed our bags and came back. People have moved to places for lesser reasons, but that was huge.”

The Norwoods moved to Washington and raised a family on Broad Creek, but when it came to crabs, largely relied upon the kindness of friends.

“In the 80s, any time we needed crabs, we’d just ask the Parkers,” Norwood explains, referring to family friends who fished and crabbed.

But it wasn’t until years later, after Nancey passed away, that Norwood became aware of the bounty that lay at his feet — or, rather, at the foot of his dock.

A new love pointed it out for him: Norwood’s fiancée, Lisa Hufnell, was raised on the Chesapeake Bay and when she moved South, she brought Chesapeake traditions with her — in this case, drop lining for crabs off the Norwood dock.

“When it’s just for the two of us, we can get

36 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

David Norwood takes a (fake) bite out of a Marylandstyle steamed crab recently. He and fiancée Lisa Hufnell like to drop line off David’s dock on Broad Creek.

(Contributed Photo)

what we need (for dinner) in an hour’s time,” Norwood says. “It’s just a task but it’s relaxing — you put the parts over and watch it start to move.

There’s no stress and it’s free stuff and it’s good eating,” he laughs.

Norwood prefers to do his crab-steaming inside, keeping two Dutch ovens going on the stove at any given time. That way, just about the time one batch of crabs has been picked clean, the next batch is ready for the table.

“It’s a social thing — certainly getting it to the table — it takes awhile,” Norwood says.

The longer steaming crabs take to get to the table, the more time there is for socializing, Norwood says, and on his porch is a table that seats 12.

And that’s really what it’s all about.

How to steam blue crab A plate of Maryland-style steamed crabs. (Contributed Photo)

W

hen it comes to steaming crabs, there are two modes of steaming: Maryland-style and the way people cook them everywhere else. So, what’s the difference? The prep work, really.

Maryland-style steamed crabs are tossed in the pot live — and the whole crab is steamed with a mix of Old Bay seasoning and kosher salt, then cleaned before eating. Carolina-style steamed crabs are killed and cleaned just before they’re tossed in the pot, along with some Old Bay. So there’s really not a whole lot of difference between the two methods — it’s just a matter of preference. Some people like the way the “mustard” (the yellow/green substance in the crab’s abdominal cavity) flavors the

meat. Others, not so much.

Since this is Carolina, let’s go with the second method: clean before you cook. We’re dealing with live crabs here, so the first thing you need to do with these notoriously feisty creatures is to make them, well, not so feisty. Iced water will do the trick. Immersing live crabs in iced water for five to 10 minutes stuns them. Once they’ve had a good soak, the first step is to remove their hard shells.

On the underside of the crab, there’s an apron flap — on sooks, female crabs, it’s rounded; on jimmies, male crabs, it’s pointed.

Pry the flap open and place the thumb at the opening, fingers on the front edge of the shell, and pull the shell up and forward to remove.

Inside, what you’ll find are the gills, spongy white pieces called “dead man’s fingers,” on either side of the

mustard. Remove it all and rinse clean. It’s less of a mess if you clean your crabs outside, using a hose to rinse, rather than in the kitchen.

Now you need a big pot and a steamer rack. Fill the bottom with about an inch of water and bring to a boil. Layer crabs and a bunch of Old Bay seasoning, cover and allow the water to return to a boil.

The crabs are done when they turn bright orange. Try not to over-steam because the meat will get a bit mushy.

That’s the basic way to steam crabs, but, again, it’s all a matter of preference. Just as some prefer their picked crabmeat with butter, others with cocktail sauce, some people will add vinegar, beer, salt and other spices to the water used to steam the crabs. It’s all just a matter of taste.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37

How to catch blue crab: crabpots

Catch

me if you can How to catch blue crab: drop lining Sure, it may be easier to buy a bushel of blue crabs from your nearest retailer, but what’s the fun in that? Instead, hours—and it could be hours—of cheap entertainment for the kids can become a Carolina crab boil on any given summer’s day. All you need are some basic tools: string, bait, a net and something to put the crabs in, like a cooler or a big bucket filled with river water.

Drop lining, or “chicken-neckin’,” as it’s sometimes called, also requires a little bit of patience. And for the crabs to show up.

The first step is to tie a piece of bait (crabs do like chicken parts on the bone) to a 5- to 6-foot line. You can tie the opposite end of the line to a short stick to hold, but it’s not necessary. Drop the bait in the water and hold tight to your string — you’ll feel a tug when a crab comes calling for dinner. When that happens, start pulling the crab to the water’s surface and scoop it up with the net. The key is being slow and deliberate when drawing the crab to the surface. If it gets wind of a trap, it’ll let go of the bait and you’ll be one crab short.

Keep your catch of crabs in cool water because crabs don’t do too well out of their element for very long.

No license is required for chicken neckin’, but there is a size limit set by the North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries.

Males and immature females must be a minimum of 5 inches, measured horizontally from tip to tip of the shell. There’s also a limit of fifty crabs per person per day and don’t even think about trying to sell the crabs you’ve caught — without a commercial license, it’s against the law.

38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

If you’re fortunate enough to have waterfront property, or have access to it with the owner’s permission, the state allows you to set one crabpot per person from a private pier or shoreline. The same limits and regulations apply as with chicken neckin.’ Instead of chicken, you might want to use menhaden,also known as “bunker,” in the pot’s bait well. The key to baiting a pot is to put the fish head down, fins up, into the bait well, then flip it as goes into the water — the fish fins will stick in the wire mesh of pot, preventing bait loss and ya’ gotta have bait.

Even if you don’t have waterfront access, if you purchase a Recreational Commercial Gear License from the state, you can set up to five points out in the river. The RCGL license costs $35 a year. The pots require a hot pink buoy attached to the line, one that identifies the owner either by name or boat registration number engraved on the buoy or on metal tags attached to the buoy. A further requirement is that the pots must be fished at least every five days.

An interesting aside is that when officials were trying to figure out a way to differentiate between recreational pots from commercial pots once they were in the water, they decided to assign the RCGL buoys with a unique color. Their reasoning: no commercial crabber would ever put an outrageously colorful buoy in the water. It was either lime green or hot pink. They went with the pink.

Menhaden, also known as “bunker,” is placed head-down in the bait well of a crabpot.

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AT HOME

Doug and Lani built a bookcase that would match stain glass panels given to Lani by her father. The circa 1800 glass flanks either side of the shelves and is backlit for a dramatic effect.

40 •• WASHINGTON WASHINGTONTHE THEMAGAZINE MAGAZINE||JULY/AUGUST JULY/AUGUST2013 2013 40

Wedding parties and teenagers on their way to the prom sometimes stop at the LeFevre home on Back Creek and ask to take photos in the yard.

Feels like home Home owners couldn't resist their personal B&B

D

Written by MONA MOORE | Photographs by WILL PRESLAR

oug and Lani LeFevre never intended to live in the home they bought on Back Creek.

The couple saw the two-acre waterfront property just off Highway 92 as the perfect spot for a bed and breakfast or wedding venue.

The home was the original farmhouse and predated every home on the block. In fact, the track of homes was once a part of the same farm.

The LeFevres put their plans

on hold when the economy took a downturn. By that time, they were in love with Bath. So, their business venture became their home.

“We absolutely love Bath,” Lani said. “People take care of each other.

They invite you for dinner.”

“And they’re all good cooks,” added Doug.

Lani described Bath as a friendly, warm place. Neighbors loan each other kayaks and make sure everyone has a place to spend holidays.

“Most people don’t see that

part of Bath,” she said. “They see the water and don’t see the lovely people.”

The LeFevres have fit right in.

They have been known to provide room and board for neighbors’ visitors. They even vacated their home so that their son-in-law’s extended family could use it for a reunion.

“We moved out and they moved in,” said Lani.

The previous owners had renovated the original one-story JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 41

Clockwise, from left, the foyer is decorated with treasures like the antique setee set Doug inherited from a former neighbor and the throw Lani’s mother picked up for her while traveling abroad. Every plant in the “friendship garden” came from one of Lani’s friends and has thrived, though Lani says she does not have a green thumb. Many of the items that decorate the LeFevre home, like these pieces in their dining room, involve their penchants for travel, wine and art. A niche in Doug’s man cave is filled with family photos and a collection of cameras.

farmhouse to a two-story that would accommodate their large family.

Doug said the home had a bunch of tiny rooms.

“It was more like a dormitory,” he said.

Despite having plenty of rooms and a number of updates, the LeFevres knew they would have a lot of work ahead of them to make it the showpiece they wanted.

“It was a real labor of love,” Lani said.

Doug and Lani started with the second floor. They gave each of six bedrooms a bathroom and built what they planned to use as a bridal suite.

The downstairs became more functional. They turned

42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

the original kitchen into a sunroom with French doors that opened up to a garden. The new kitchen, twice the size of the old one, became the heart of the home and gave the first floor an open floor plan.

“I wanted a center kitchen so that it would feel like a home,” Lani said.

They added a television room that quickly became Doug’s "man cave" and a popular place on Super Bowl Sunday.

A front room renovation gave them a library that features one of Lani’s treasures: circa-1880s stained glass windows that flank built-in shelves.

“That was a gift from my father,” Lani said. “The

The sunroom is Lani’s favorite spot. Hanging next to the French doors is a painting her mother painted shortly before she passed away.

stained glass came from the Fort Worth Electric Company.”

Lani filled her home with sentimental items like the stained glass panels. One bedroom has furniture her daughter grew up using and dolls that belonged to Lani and her daughter.

The foyer contains one of Doug’s treasures. A setee and matching chair (circa 1800s) was a wedding gift from a neighbor of his.

A painting Lani’s mother did hangs in the sunroom.

Because family tradition dictates that gifts be time together or something handmade, Lani’s sunroom has several works of art from her grandkids.

The sunroom is one of Lani’s favorite places. She said it has the best views of the water and her garden.

And that garden on the other side of the French doors? That’s no ordinary garden. She calls it her “friendship garden.” Each plant was a gift from a friend.

The home is a showcase of everything the LeFevres love: friends, family, wine and travel.

Looking at the working pink rotary phone her daughter combed the Internet to find and the little figurines her grandkids made put a smile on Lani’s face.

“People probably look at my stuff and think, ‘Okay, that’s very strange.’ Now, it’s a real family home,” Lani said. “So, we’re very, very fortunate, very grateful.”

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43

CAST A LINE

Go to live bait for summer fishing success Written by CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

W

hen the summer hits the Pamlico River, the anglers aren't the only ones feeling the heat.

Speckled trout and striped bass typically respond negatively to the summer water temperatures while puppy drum and flounder flourish. Fishing live baits for all four species can greatly increase your success and consistency during the summer. To become an effective live-bait fisherman requires the angler to become intimately familiar with the baitfish and their strengths and weaknesses. My favorite type of live bait is mud minnows. They are very hardy, easy to keep alive, easy to catch and they catch all fish well. Mud minnows are common in the summer and can be found around shoreline structure or grass swimming near the surface near schools. They can be caught most easily by using a minnow trap. Use shrimp heads or broken up blue crab for bait and set them in areas where you see them in concentrations. With about a half hour of good soak time with a couple of carefully set and baited traps, you should have all you need for a day of fishing. If you don't have a nice live well, don't fret ‌ just throw them in a bucket in some water and head out.

Other popular live baits for summer fishing are finger mullet, menhaden, shrimp, croaker, spot and pinfish. All of these baits have their particular strengths and weaknesses. Finger mullet is perhaps the most popular of all these and can be caught in a cast net with relative ease. Learning the art of cast net fishing is not as difficult as most people think.

Just YouTube it, and you will see many videos on how to throw one. Pick the way that is quickest and easiest for you and practice in your yard. You should be able to "pancake" it in just a few throws.

Most live baits are fished along the bottom on a weighted "Carolina Rig," freelined in the midwater column with no weight, or fished near the surface under a cork or bobber. Incorporating all three of

44 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

A proud angler displays a 43-inch-long old drum caught under a popping cork on light tackle.

these strategies in deeper water is an excellent way to prospect the water column for fish. Because of the abundance of shallow water habitat (less than 5 to 6 feet) in the Pamlico, most anglers fish a live bait under a cork.

I encourage all curious anglers to explore their live-bait options during the summer fishing season.

Live-bait fishing will add another dimension to your fishing if you are mostly an artificial lure fisherman.

You'll catch more fish and ensure more consistent success on those hot summer days.

Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252945-9715 or richard@ tarpamguide.com

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WORD ON WINE

“Sour Wine” and great taste

W

Written by James McKelvey and Yvonne Sedgwick

hile the discovery that grape juice when left undisturbed ferments into wine was cause for celebration in the ancient world, the discovery that wine left undisturbed turns into vinegar ... not so much. But it didn’t take inventive humans very long to discover the many uses of this acidic substance. Legend has it that the Sumerians, a civilization of ancient Babylonia, used vinegar as a cleaning agent. Later, the Babylonians discovered that vinegar slows or stops the action of bacteria that spoils food, so they used it as a preservative ... and discovered that food so preserved had a tasty tang to it.

Here in the South, we usually use vinegar for pickling produce from the garden or for salad dressings. And the vinegar is often simple apple cider or distilled white vinegar (made from corn ethanol).

Being “wine people,” we prefer the vinegars that come from winemaking traditions. Indeed, our English word “vinegar” comes from the French vin aigre — “sour wine.”

Traditional Balsamic vinegar is made from sweet Trebbiano grapes (the second-most widely planted wine grape in the world) in the region around Modena, Italy. It is aged in casks of various woods (sometimes for as long as 100 years) and has a rich, slightly sweet flavor that adds depth and savor to a wide range of foods. Sometimes fruits like fig, strawberry or other berries are added. Be wary of cheaper imitation Balsamic that is really a combination of grape juice, vinegar, sweetener and caramel coloring. Read the label.

A great vinegar for salad dressing or for adding piquancy to soups, stews and sauces is sherry vinegar made from sherry wine from the region around Jerez, Spain, and aged in oak casks for at least six months.

Or try champagne vinegar made of the grapes from that elegant sparkling wine region.

It’s easy to be adventurous in your use of the more unusual and flavorful vinegars. Instead of a simple oil-and-vinegar dressing, how about a sherry vinaigrette like they do in Spain.

Here’s Chef Yvonne’s recipe for an all-purpose salad dressing that’s quick, easy and much better for you than the bottled dressings with dozen of “ingredients.”

• 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil (beware cheap imitations or blends) • 1/4 cup Solera 77 sherry vinegar (or other variety from Jerez, Spain) • 2 teaspoons finely chopped chives plus 2 teaspoons finely chopped oregano (or substitute 2 teaspoons dried Italian seasoning) • 1 teaspoon good quality French Dijon-style mustard • 1 teaspoon local honey (to taste, to balance the acidity) • salt and pepper to taste Mix all ingredients together and allow to stand on your counter for two hours before use. Will keep in the refrigerator for up to a month.

This summer, why not think outside the usual plate by trying the great “sour wines” of the world? How about pickled shrimp made with sherry vinegar and fresh lemon juice or chicken breasts with raspberry Balsamic glaze? Just be sure to use the best quality ingredients you can obtain. It makes all the difference.

James “The Wine Guy” McKelvey and “Chef Yvonne” Sedgwick are proprietors of Wine & Words ... & Gourmet in downtown Washington.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 47

LET’S EAT

Asparagus make up the bed of this cream crab side dish.

Crab Love 48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49

Crab Meat and Asparagus, the finished product

Crabs from the Pamlico, to the table Written by KEVIN SCOTT CUTLER PhotographS AND Food PREPARATION By VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

F

olks around Washington certainly seem to have an affinity for crabs.

Sterling-silver miniatures of the crustacean may be purchased in one of the local jewelry stores, playful likenesses adorn handcrafted pottery in a Main Street gallery and larger-than-life sculptures dot the landscape, reminders of the Crabs on the Move outdoor art project initiated in 2006.

But probably the best, and certainly the tastiest, crabs can be found right on one's luncheon or dinner plate.

These dishes feature the scrumptious crab in the starring role. Found in the Pamlico River, the Pamlico Sound and the Atlantic Ocean, the crab is truly a harvested-at-home delight.

Enjoy these recipes, several of which can be found among the pages of the Washington Daily News' Pamlico Pantry cookbook selections!

The Curiosity Shoppe's Crab Dip Fans of the old Curiosity Shoppe at the corner of West Main and Respess streets in Washington will recognize this superb dip created by Curiosity Shoppe owner Matt Holler. Recipe is courtesy of Chris Womack.

8 ounces cream cheese, softened; 8 ounces sour cream; 1 red onion, diced; 4 cloves of garlic, minced; 2 teaspoons fresh dill; 1 tablespoon horseradish; 1 teaspoon black pepper; 1 teaspoon Tabasco; 1 teaspoon dried oregano; 1/2 pound of claw crabmeat; grated Parmesan.

Blend cream cheese and sour cream well. Mix in all other ingredients and top with grated Parmesan cheese. Bake at 400 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes. Serve with toasted pita points.

50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Old Bay seasoning is a staple when it comes to crabs. Here, it’s used to season broiled crabcakes.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51

The Curiosity Shoppe’s crab dip, best served on toasted pita points and amongst friends, of course.

Blue crab claw meat is used for a favorite recipe from the Curiosity Shoppe.

Crab Meat and Asparagus

Fried Crabs

Gloria Fentress

Donna Gorham Washington Pediatrics 6 crabs, cleaned and steamed; 1 1/2 cups complete pancake mix; 2 ounces Texas Pete hot sauce; vegetable oil.

In a deep pan, add oil approximately 3/4 of the pan deep; place on medium heat. Mix pancake batter per directions. Pour Texas Pete hot sauce into pancake batter and mix. Dip and coat steamed crabs in pancake mixture and place into hot oil. Turn crab when edges begin to turn brown. Brown both sides and remove crabs from oil. Place on a paper towel to remove grease.

Note: Be sure to properly clean crabs before steaming.

Boiled Crabs Joe Peele

Beaufort County Arts Council White wine, sunset, the Curiosity Shoppe’s crab dip — how can life be better?

Crab Quiche Alice Thompson Tri-Community Ruritan Club 1 deep dish pie shell; 8 ounces back fin crab meat; 8 ounces Swiss cheese, grated; 1/2 cup onion, finely chopped; 2 eggs, well beaten; 1/2 cup milk; 1/2 cup mayonnaise; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1/2 teaspoon pepper.

Mix ingredients together and pour in pie shell.

Bake at 350 degrees for 55 minutes.

Live blue crabs (about three per person); boiling water; 1/2 cup salt; 3 tablespoon crab boil; 1 cup vinegar.

Crab Casserole

Fill large pot 2/3 full of water and bring to a boil. Add other ingredients and boil for 15-20 minutes or until crabs turn bright red and are cooked. Remove crabs to cool.

Saint Peter's Episcopal Church

52 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Saute crab lightly in butter. Add sherry and simmer until reduced by one-half. Add flour and then cream, stirring constantly until thickened.

Add seasonings. Fork stir, keeping crab in lumps. Cook and drain asparagus. Place asparagus in bottom of a buttered casserole.

Pour crab mixture over asparagus. Spread with whipped cream. Sprinkle with cheese and brown under low heat. (Note: You may use two cans of asparagus.)

Crab Cakes

St. Thomas Episcopal Church

Cleaning the cooked crabs: Remove the claws and crack the claws with a crab knife and remove the meat. Pull off the outer shell and discard. Remove the fat and gills by scraping or washing. Cut the knuckles of the walking legs with a crab knife or a pair of poultry shears. Cut the body in half and remove the upper part of the body. Remove the lump meat, and with the knife remove the remaining sections of the body.

1 pound crab meat; 2 tablespoons butter; 1/2 cup dry sherry; 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour; 2 cups light cream; salt and pepper; 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen asparagus; 1 cup whipping cream, whipped; 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese.

Mary Jones

1 egg; 3 tablespoons mayonnaise; 1 1/2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce; 1 pound lump crab meat, picked over; 12 saltines, crushed; 1/2 stick butter, cut up.

Beat egg in bowl. Add mayonnaise and Worcestershire sauce. Toss in crab gently, as to not break it up. Add saltines and stir gently.

Place in greased 1 1/2-quart casserole. Dot with butter. Bake in a 325 degree oven for 25 minutes. Yield: eight servings.

Joe Peele St. Thomas Episcopal Church 2 slices of bread, crusts removed; 2 tablespoons mayonnaise; 2 teaspoons Old Bay Seasoning; 2 teaspoons parsley flakes; 1/2 teaspoon prepared yellow mustard; 1 egg, beaten; 1 pound cooked crab meat.

Bread bread into small pieces. Mix mayonnaise, Old Bay, parsley, mustard and egg. Stir in crab meat. Broil in butter until each side is browned.

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BY HARRIS INTERACTIVE FROM JUNE-JULY 2011 AMONG 1,004 INVESTORS WITH FINANCIAL ADVISOR RELATIONSHIPS. NOT INDICATIVE OF FUTURE PERFORMANCE OR SUCCESS. NOT REPRESENTATIVE OF THE EXPERIENCE OF OTHER CLIENTS. 0212-1376 [87653-v1] a1521

CALENDAR

OUT AND ABOUT

Every Saturday Saturday Market • Downtown Washington • Runs through October. The market features local growers of fresh fruit, vegetables, plants and flowers. Fishmongers offer fresh seafood from local waters.

You will also want to try some delicious, fresh baked goods.

You never know what you might find; the products are always changing. Call 252-946-3969 for more information.

July 29-Aug. 2 Little Washington Sailing School • Downtown Washington • 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Little Washington Sailing School, basic sailing classes. For more information, call 252-402-7878.

July 30 Fish-printing T-shirts • N.C. Estuarium • 10:30-11:30 a.m. $2 program fee. Decorate your own T-shirt with prints of fish and other critters.

Bring your own T-shirt. Children must be at least 6 years old and accompanied by an adult. It is best to wear old clothes. Call for reservations at 252-948-0000. (children and adults)

Aug. 1, 8, 15 Fun with Quilting — A Beginner’s Project • N.C. Estuarium • Three sessions, 1 p.m. to 3 p.m. $ 2 program fee per session. This workshop series is open to children who are the third through seventh grades. The children attend three sessions and make a quilted pillow to take home by the end of the third session. Space is limited to 10 children. This program is presented by members of the

Motown Downtown means soul music, dancing and just plain fun.

Pamlico River Quilters Guild. Call for reservations at 252-948-0000.

Aug. 3 Beaufort County Traditional Music Association Open Mic Night • Union Alley Coffeehouse • 7-9 p.m. Join the BCTMA at Union Alley Coffeehouse inside Inner Banks Artisans’ Center for a fun night of music.

Aug. 5-Aug. 9 Little Washington Sailing School • Downtown Washington • 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. Little Washington Sailing School, basic sailing classes. For more information, call 252-402-7878.

54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Aug. 6 National Night Out • Havens Gardens • An event celebrated all over the U.S. that brings the community and law enforcement together to fight against crime in our neighborhoods. It is also an opportunity for law enforcement and the community to come together in a positive setting to interact with each other. Hulahoop contest, long-jump contest and much more. For more information, call Kimberly Grimes at 252-943-1715 or email kgrimes@washingtonnc.gov

Aug. 8 ArtWalk • Downtown Washington • This free-to-the-public showcase of local visual art runs from 6 p.m. to 9 p.m. on Main, Water and Gladden streets on the second Thursday of February, May, August

and November. The quarterly happening features art in galleries open to browsers, collectors or the plain curious, with refreshments and live entertainment thrown in for good measure.

Aug. 10 2nd Saturday • Historic Bath • 2nd Saturday: A Woman’s Work is Never Done program at Historic Bath. Free. Visitor Center, 207 Carteret Street, 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Learn about women’s chores from the past through demonstrations by the Tar Heel Civilians. Watch spinners and learn how to card wool. View the group’s collection of tools and vintage undergarments. Try your hand at cleaning with a washboard and never complain again about doing the laundry.

ADVERTISER INDEX

OUT AND ABOUT

Aug. 16 Music in the Streets

Allstate Insurance, 61 Andrea Heekins, 57 Beaufort County Chamber of Commerce, 65

• Downtown Washington • 6 to 9 p.m. Enjoy a wonderful evening with your friends and neighbors in historic downtown Washington. No matter what your musical taste, you will find entertainers to delight you in this monthly musical event. Downtown Washington comes to life, shops stay open late and the restaurants are glad to see you. For more information, call 252-946-3969.

Aug. 24-25 Mid-Atlantic Century Cycling Marathon • Washington Area • The Mid Atlantic 12/24 & Century is an ultra cycling marathon and is sanctioned by RAMM & UMCA. Riders in the 24-hour division who ride a total of 400-plus miles in 24 hours will be qualified for the Race Across America. First wave of riders depart Washington High School at 7 a.m. and will ride a 26mile loop continuously for either 12 or 24 hours. There is also a 100-miles trail division and a noncompetitive ride for those who would like to enjoy a more slow pace ride.

Aug. 24 Motown Downtown • Festival Park • Come to hear the Ginger Thompson Band at 5 p.m. then the renowned Monitors, whose members have worked with many of the greats, like the “Godfather of Soul” James Brown.

And don’t miss the delicious fun of the newly added Pamlico Seafood Fest. Tickets available for $12 at the Washington Visitor Center or online at whda.org. Call 252946-3969 for information.

Beaufort County Community Collage, 6 Bloom Women’s Apparel, 57 Blythe House, 57 City of Washington, 5 Coastal Carolina Regional Airport, 65 David C. Francisco, 61 East Side Bait & Tackle, 56 Eastern Dermatology & Pathology, 65 Edward Jones, 56 Eye Care Center, 3 Feyer Ford, 2 Flanders Filters, 5 Gail Kenefick, 57 Gerri McKinley, 57 Golden Way Home Care, 57

Summer brings sailing classes offered by the Little Washington Sailing School.

Gregory Poole, 8 Inner Banks Artisans’ Center, 39 Innerbanks Financial Partners, 61

Every Saturday in August and September Bicycle excursions • Inner Banks Outfitters • 8 a.m. Free. Road bike and helmets are required. 15 ti 20 miles. Call 252-975-3006 for information.

Saturdays and Sundays in September Road bike race • Inner Banks Outfitters • 8 a.m. to 9 a.m. Road bike and helmet required, For more information, call 252-975-3006.

Sept. 6-8 Hunters Pointe Fall Fantastic • Hunters Pointe Sporting Clays • 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. For more information, call 252-946-2529.

Sept. 7 Historic Ghost Walk with guide Terry Rollins • Downtown Washington • 8 p.m. to 9 p.m. in downtown Washington. Walk begins at Harding Square near Visitor Center. $10 a person.

Leggett Farm Organics, 46 Lone Leaf Gallery, 46 New Trends in Travel, 61 On the Waterfront, 46 Phillips-Wright Furniture, 39 Potash-Aurora Corp, 3 Russell’s, 39 Scott Campbell, 45 Sloan Insurance Agency, 39 South Market Antiques, 57 State Farm Insurance, 56

Sept. 14 Wine and cheese paddle

Stewarts Jewelry Store, 7 Tayloe’s Hospital Pharmacy, 53 Tumble B Gym, 5

• Inner Banks Outfitters • 5 p.m. to 7 p.m. $20 if you have a kayak, $45 with kayak rental. Call 252-975-3006 for more information.

Vidant Health, back cover Village Diva, 39 Votex Shade Solutions, 57 Washington Eye Center, 45 Washington Jewelers, 39 Washington Yacht & Country Club, 8

Sept. 19 Full Moon Paddle

Wells Fargo Advisors, 53 Wine & Words…& Gourmet, 53

• Inner Banks Outfitters • 6:15 p.m. to 8 p.m. Start at Inner Banks Outfitters. Call 252975-3006 for more information.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 55

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JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57

IN THE ARTS

Crab pots to crab pottery A blue crab emerging from a work boot is her most unusual crab-oriented piece, according to Lee.

58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Artist inspired by native crabs

T

Written by MIKE VOSS | Photographs by WILL PRESLAR

hey make look it, but those crabs on Diane Lee’s pottery are not real.

Try convincing some folks those crabs are not real.

“They think it’s a live crab — someway I have thrown it into something. They’re just astonished,” Lee explains.

Lee knows about crabs.

“On the river, that ‘s where I was raised. I used to crab with my father,” said Lee, who prefers .

Lee’s passion for pottery came later in her life.

“I worked in a doctor’s office, and after he retired, then I had a chance to take Linda Boyer’s pottery class.

I did baskets. I painted. I did a little of everything, until I got my hands on clay. When I put my hands on clay, it felt right,” Lee said. “And that’s when it started.”

Lee works mostly with earthenware clay.

“At home, I have a kiln that I fire my bissware at home, but I have a raku kiln. I can raku at home. I usually take my pieces that I fire to Dan Finch’s in Bailey, N.C., because he has a reduction kiln, which is a gas kiln,” Lee said. “You get a different look in reduction than you do in electric. Electric, you get the true colors, like you would buy something at Walmart. In reduction firing … you don’t recognize sometimes what you did because it shrinks so.”

Although her pottery reflects many aspects of river life, there’s a reason the crab dominates much of her pottery.

No, that’s not a real conch shell nor a real blue crab. They are pottery pieces joined together.

“Linda Boyer taught me pottery.

She painted her crabs on her pottery.

I couldn’t copy what Linda did, so I started doing them in 3-D,” she said. “And now I can’t paint. I can do things in 3-D, but I can’t put things on paper.”

Lee’s 3-D crabs may be found on dishes, lampshades and other functional items.

“The first thing I put a crab on was a chip-and-dip (piece). It sold to First South Bank on Carolina Avenue.

That’s where it is now. They won’t sell it back to me,” Lee said.

With so many crabs featured in her pottery, Lee uses a form to produce the crab bodies so they are consistent. Later, she adds the claws, legs and other physical features of

the crab to the body.

“Other than that (using the form to make the body), each one is individually handcrafted,” Lee notes.

Lee says her most unusual craboriented piece is that of a work boot with a crab resting on the boot’s tongue. Lee traced the sole of a real work boot to use as a blueprint when she made the work boot out of clay.

Lee’s work is showcased at the Inner Banks Artisans’ Center in downtown Washington. The Christmas Shop and Gallery 101 in Manteo and the arts councils in Edenton and Elizabeth City are among the places that carry Lee’s work.

Lee said her crab-oriented pottery is popular on the Outer Banks.

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 59

Lee also produces lamp bases that feature blue crabs as decorative items.

Call me today to discuss your options.

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FOR YOUR HEALTH

‘Blessed to be here’ 62 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

Silver Sneakers keeps seniors active Written by MONA MOORE Photographs by WILL PRESLAR

D

enny Karpy’s class is no cakewalk.

That’s what her 26-year-old, marathon-running daughter realized after an hour moving and kicking in her mother’s Silver Sneakers class.

Karpy gave her daughter 5-pound weights then turned her loose.

“At the end of class she said, ‘Mama, you didn’t tell me it would be this hard.’ You definitely can challenge yourself in here,” Karpy said.

Silver Sneakers is an exercise program started by a company named Healthways. For many, their insurance picks up the tab, which covers membership to the gym and access to all of the gym’s classes and equipment.

The program helps older adults take control of their health.

“A lot of people say, ‘I don’t want to take this class because it’s for old people.’ I hate that. It’s not for old people. You make it what it is for you,” said Karpy. “I think the chairs scare them.”

She compares the use of the chairs to that of a ballet bar. It’s there for balance. Participants also place class equipment on them so that they do not have to bend all the way down to the floor.

None of the class involved getting down on the floor.

Healthways introduced the program at Fitness Unlimited, the only gym in the area that offers it. Fitness instructor Tara Carter said the gym’s

JULY/AUGUST 2013 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 63

The Chest Press with weights With palms down, hold weights in front of your shoulders. Push weights away from your chest.

Be sure to keep your arms at shoulder height.

You work the pectoralis major with this one. The fan-shaped muscles help you reach over your head and move your arms to the front of your body. The chest press also uses the front of your shoulders and your triceps.

The Seated March with weights Many of the leg exercises can be done in a seated position. Hold the weights on the upper part of your legs. Raise one knee, and then lower it. Then raise the opposite knee and lower it. Repeat, raising one leg at a time.

This one works your glutes, hamstrings and quadriceps.

territory covers a 20-mile radius. Some participants come from Williamston to take the class.

Edna Sadberry learned of the program long before it came to Beaufort County in 2008. Her insurance company contacted her and offered her free membership to a gym in New Bern that offered the program. The Chocowinity resident jumped at the chance to take the program once Fitness Unlimited started offering it.

“This is my second year. I love it,” she said.

Jamesville residents Wayne and Annette Conner drive 50 miles roundtrip at least three times a week in order to take Silver Sneakers. They learned of the program from their daughter, a member of the gym, and joined about two years ago.

“Blue Cross/Blue Shield covers it,” Wayne said. “I think they figured if we do this and get healthy, they won’t have to pay as much.”

Karpy said Healthway’s training stressed safety above everything.

“We tell the people to challenge themselves rather than push themselves. There is difference,” she said.

“None of us are Olympic athletes.”

Most people start with the muscular strength range of movement class offered three times a week.

The class covers conditioning, balance and stretches.

The exercises are applicable in everyday life.

“We do a lot of movements seniors would typically do,” said Tara Carter, a fitness instructor at Fitness Unlimited. “We’re trying to make them stronger.”

64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

The exercises may have been planned with older adults in mind, but the class is open to people of any age, shape or size.

“The beautiful thing about this class is it’s one of those classes that is modifiable for all fitness levels,” Carter said.

After a year of the class, many were ready for the more challenging cardio circuit. The class combines strength training with lots of movement to get the blood flowing. All of the classes start at 10:30 a.m. and last an hour.

But the regulars are always early.

Nora Blair has been taking Silver Sneakers classes for more than a year.

“I have lots more mobility,” she said. “And probably 30 or 40 new friends.”

The Conners have made a lot of friends, too.

“We feel like family here,” Wayne said.

One of Carter’s favorite memories of the Silver Sneakers class is a recent one. A married couple attended the class regularly. When the wife died, the first daily routine the husband returned to was his Silver Sneakers class.

“When he walked in the room in the middle of class, we all stopped and hugged him,” she said.

“That was such a poetic moment. It’s what this program is all about.”

To learn more about the program, go to Silversneakers.com or visit Fitness Unlimited at 622 West 15th Street in Washington.

SATURDAY, AUGUST 24, 2013 PotashCorp Aurora Presents..

& the Pamlico Seafood Festival Delicious seafood Available with Beer & Wine Garden OPENING WITH THE GINGER THOMPSON BAND AT 5:00PM

THE MONITORS

TAkE THE STAGE AT 7:00PM Come to hear the renowned Monitors whose members have worked with many of the greats such as James Brown & Otis redding. together 50 years, the Monitors are honored to be included on the African-American Music trail.

Rain OR shine tickets avaiLabLe nOw $12.00 OR $15.00 at the gate in the event of rain the concert will move to Washington High school Blankets & Chairs Welcome. no Coolers Allowed.

tickets OUtLets: www.WHDA.org BC CHAMBER OF COMMERCE & visitOR CEntER OR CAll 252-947-1487

Y’ALL COME BACK

Why I love Washington

A Tale of Two Cities

F

Written by Alvin Powell PHOTOGRAPHY by WILL PRESLAR

inding Washington, N.C., the “original Washington”, was like locating a hidden gold mine. I always knew that I would retire in N.C. because of family and friends. I just was not sure where in N.C. I would locate.

I was born in Washington, D.C., the “second” Washington, and raised on my grandparents’ farm near Ahoskie, N.C. as a preschooler. I attended school in Washington, D.C. and lived in a neighborhood where gang related violence, drug activity, police confrontations, and teenage pregnancies were normal.

Each year I anxiously waited until school was out for the summer break so I could escape to N.C. I would spend those quiet summer months on my grandparents’ farm or hanging out with my friends and relatives in N.C. Each year when I returned to Washington, D.C. after the summer break, I had an argument with my friends about watermelons growing on vines in the ground and not in trees.

Growing up in Washington, D.C. could be dangerous unless you were a successful athlete. I was a successful athlete; however, I eventually realized that an education was priceless and my ticket to a better future. I obtained an athletic scholarship to pay for my education and decided to attend Fayetteville State University, Fayetteville, N.C. to be near family and friends. I was subsequently inducted into the Athletic Hall of Fame.

After graduation from college, I completed the requirements to become a federal bank examiner.

This experience qualified me to be accepted into the Federal Bureau of Investigation Academy which led to my appointment as a special agent. I spent 30 years in the FBI participating in special-operations missions, and working in a variety of investigations including the attack on the World Trade Centers. I also attended flight school to become a FBI pilot. I retired from the FBI as the chief of a counterterrorism unit.

Nine years ago, my wife and I began visiting N.C. communities to identify possible retirement locations.

66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2013

We found the beautiful Washington, N.C. area. My first thought was… Oh no, not another “Washington.”

Then we met some of the friendly shopkeepers and residents. We “checked-out” the downtown waterfront, the fishing and boating opportunities, and local places to eat; plus, we fell in love with the climate, low cost of living, and the Alvin Powell community social events. I was also impressed by the low crime statistics and opportunities for youth programs. We were “hooked” and decided to make the Washington area our “home.”

Growing up in Washington, D.C. and traveling to different parts of the United States and the world while working with the FBI made me aware of how easy it is for youth-our future-to become involved in criminal activity now and ruin their opportunity for career options years later. By working with a group of dedicated community leaders, I was able to form the Beaufort County Police Activities League (PAL) to provide “all youth” with positive lifestyle and career options with hopes of keeping them from getting into trouble. County law enforcement officials, the Beaufort County Schools, and county municipal officials have been extremely supportive of PAL. The friendships that my family and I have made in Washington are priceless and heartwarming. PAL has afforded me the opportunity to work with the community and law enforcement while my family participates in activities according to their interests. My youngest son and granddaughter now live in Beaufort County while my oldest son, who lives out of state, visits often. What more could I ask for?

BCCC Foundation Golf Tournament Friday, September 20

Broadway is closer than you think!

Join the BCCC Foundation as we travel to the Durham Performing Arts Center to see three of New York’s hottest musicals!

Washington Yacht & Country Club

Sponsored by Potash Corp - Aurora

Beauty and the Beast

Oct. 12

Once

Jan. 25

Book of Mormon

Feb. 22

Four person super ball.

Team Prizes awarded in each of three flights Hole-in-One Prizes sponsored by Lee Chevrolet-Buick and Park Boat Company Four Closest-to-the-Pin Prizes

Proceeds provide scholarships for BCCC students!

For more information, contact Judy Meier Jennette, Director By telephone at 252-940-6326 by email at judyj@beaufortccc.edu

Beaufort County Community College P.O. Box 1069, Washington, N.C. 27889 or visit us at www.beaufortccc.edu

The BCCC Foundation

20th Annual

Does having health care close to home make life better in eastern North Carolina?

Yes. As any busy mom, active senior or seasoned professional will tell you, there’s never enough time in the day. Traveling for health care isn’t easy to squeeze in. That’s why Vidant Health is delivering a system of care that does more than just provide health services. We are bringing better health and wellness resources where you need them.

Through our 10 hospitals and more than 1,700 providers, we’re expanding primary and specialty care in our communities. Our goal is to keep advanced care close to home so you don’t have to find extra minutes in your day to travel for health care. And that makes life better for everyone.

To learn more, visit VidantHealth.com. Or call 800-472-8500 to make an appointment with a physician near you.