Washington the Magazine January|February 2020

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CAROLINA WILDLIFE ARTS FESTIVAL downtown Washington takeover E

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ways to celebrate this Valentine’s Day

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA

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In this issue

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS VALENTINE’S DAY LOVERS LANE: 24 Fun ways to celebrate the day of love with your sweetheart in Beaufort County.

24 WILDLIFE ARTS 30

ON THE WING: Wildlife and arts combine to draw thousands to Washington for annual festival.

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 10 20 50 44 52 54 56 58 60 66

Publisher’s Note The Scene What's in Store Cast a Line What's to Eat Wine Column Dining Guide Travel & Leisure Calendar Around the County Why I Love Washington

30 OPEN DOOR 38

THE GRANDE DAME: From iconic private residence to modern bed and breakfast, Elmwood celebrates 200 years of history.

38 THE SECOND ‘B’ 44

SOUTHERN COOKING: Elmwood 1820 shares some— but not all—of the B&B’s delicious breakfast recipes.

44 4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

ON THE COVER Decoy carvings roost amongst a nest of wood shavings during last year’s Wildlife Arts Festival. This year, the Carolina Wildlife Arts Festival will take place at the Turnage Theatre, bringing in artists and wildlife enthusiasts from throughout North and South Carolina. For a broad look at this year’s festival, see page 30.

(Vail Stewart Rumley)

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 5

A NOTE FROM ASHLEY

Art in NATURE

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here is an intrinsic art in nature. Perhaps nowhere is that more evident than in eastern North Carolina. Any river lover worth their salt will say as much, offering a Pamlico sunset as all the proof you’ll ever need. Though the natural canvas here overflows with near countless examples.

Art and nature intertwine, in a more literal sense, during Washington’s annual celebration of wildlife arts. From decoy carving and duck calling to watercolors of our waterways, the festival puts on full display the intersection of local talent and tradition.

Rebranded this year as the Carolina Wildlife Arts Festival, the event promises displays of art, hands-on demonstrations and skill-teaching seminars.

Organized by the Arts of the Pamlico, it offers something for locals and tourists alike. Celebrate beauty in one of its most interesting and endearing forms — explore your wild side on page 30.

Valentine’s Day is just around the corner and so are seven special adventures to mark the day with your sweetheart. Look at the traditional holiday with a fresh perspective on page 24. If your plans include pouring a glass to pair with the perfect day, check out Word on Wine for a little inspiration on page 52.

Much has changed in the 200 years since Col. Joshua Tayloe built one of Washington’s most notable homes. Elmwood has survived as a Civil War hospital and elegant headquarters for Union officers. It has served as a family home to prominent Washington families and thrives still today as a bed and breakfast. Elmwood 1820 owners Richard Smoot and John Butler are keeping the building — and its stories — alive on page 38.

I hope you enjoy this issue of Washington the Magazine and take a moment or more to appreciate the natural beauty surrounding us here in eastern North Carolina. May your Valentine’s Day be warm with love from those you hold dear.

Ashley Vansant, Publisher

We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@

Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine.

6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Matt Debnam Vail Stewart Rumley Mitchell Thomas Contributors Richard Andrews Michelle Clancy Brian Fuller Mary Mehlich Attila Nemecz Richard Smoot Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Cecilia Prokos Amy Whitaker Scott Williamson Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2019, Washington Newsmedia, LLC.

THE SCENE ARTS OF THE PAMLICO FINE ARTS SHOW For a 55th year, Arts of the Pamlico hosted an opening reception for the arts nonprofit’s annual Fine Arts Show. Drawing 177 entries from 11 counties, the show brought in many new artists, new works and a striking array of mixed-media pieces. Best in Show went to renowned local watercolorist Jeffrey Jakub, while Williamston artist Mike Bennett took the People’s Choice award. Sponsored awards and placements in each category were also handed out.

Jeff Jakub and Pat Axness

Rima Jakub and Marian Kozuch

Eleanor McArver, Pat Mansfield, Eileen Sanger

Jane McCotter and Judy Hutchens

10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Elle Reapp and Natalie Shackelfurd

William Aley, Amy Flowers, Colleen Night, Gale Champion

Sterling Taylor and Nan McLendon

Bob Ray, Maryalice Johnston

Lynne and Andy Anderson

MJ Peters and Nannette Myre

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11

THE SCENE LITERACY VOLUNTEERS’ HALLOWEEN GAMING PARTY The Literacy Volunteers of Beaufort County held its annual Halloween fundraising card/ game party at the Washington Yacht & Country Club on Oct. 31. Lunch, door prizes, a 50/50 drawing and a variety of games, including bridge, Scrabble, Sequence, Hand and Foot, Mahjong, dominoes and more were on the menu for the 12th-annual event.

The proceeds support the work of Literacy Volunteers in providing one-on-one free tutoring for adults in Beaufort County.

Sue Brown and Annie Griffin

Ellen Schwartz and Betty Jarvis

Betty Eschenbauch, Ruth Petersen

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Marilyn Bram, Pippin Madson

Sue Beck, Bernice Marle, Pam Woods

Carol Persche and Dee Beckman

Diana Mathiesen, Eileen Posage and Carol Ward

Davey Fulmer and Janice Rich

Shelley Freeman

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13

THE SCENE INNER BANKS STEM CENTER DINNER/DANCE An evening of good food, live music and celebration awaited attendees at the Inner Banks STEM Center’s annual Dinner/Dance on Nov. 16. The event drew well over 200 people and serves as the biggest fundraiser of the year for IBX STEM, which offers a variety of programs, including boating and aviation camps, in the summer months.

William Griffin, Dave Jordan, Dr. Priscilla Johnson and Al Powell

Jorge Bocanegra, Tom Meeks and Marty Meeks

Gladys Johnson, Chris Johnson and Antromeed Johnson

Georgia O’Pharrow, William O’Pharrow, Emma Howard, Sheila Carray, Ethel Oden and Charles Oden

14 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Rena Bunns and William Battle

Sally Jacobs Harmon, Barbie Spurlock and Toby Spurlock

Nakita Wilson and Jordan Davis

Rod Stem, Juliette Skyes, Nancy Stem, Georgie Lilley, Jim Bateman, Jane Bateman, Dottie Cutler, Earl Queen, Pattie Queen and Pat Waters

Lori, William and Mackenzie Chrismon

Aaron and Angela Lewis

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 15

THE SCENE BCCC EMBERS CONCERT AND FUNDRAISER Live music for a good cause was the name of the game at the Washington Civic Center on Oct. 24, as Beaufort County Community College Foundation continued a tradition with its annual fundraiser concert featuring The Embers. The live music was paired with a silent auction, raising money to help provide scholarships for local students to attend BCCC. The event serves as one of the Foundation’s largest fundraisers of the year.

Wali and Yvon Saleem, Mitch St. Clair and Theresa Cannady

Ray and Robin McKeithan

Amy Lupton, Reanne Mayo and Brenda Rogers

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Dave Loope, John and Shelly Rebholz

Kathy and Glen Simpson

Allison and Daniel Hollowell

Katrina Barrow and Tamika Windley

Jim and Jane Bateman

Steve and Judy Nobles

Marie Bright, Josh Gaskins and Katelyn Singleton

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17

Katherine and Bill Zachman, Billy Clark

My-Kuz Moore

Phyllis Manning, Lisa Woolard, Jane McCotter and Margaret Holder

Janet and John Rodman

18 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Bill Staton, Laura Staton and Alan Mobley

Arlington Village

Since 1969

Where

Modern Design Meets

Old World

Craftsmanship Custom Designs Created in Our On Site Design Center 633 Red Banks Road Greenville, North Carolina

WHAT'S IN STORE

A piece of

Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED

a.

b.

Love your town Cottage Junkies gives love to their county with a variety of ways for locals to show their pride. Decorate your home in the season of love with tea towels exclaiming love for your hometown (a.) $16.95. The love doesn’t stop in the kitchen—add small trinkets of hometown love with coasters of your stomping grounds (b.) $8.95.

20 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

e.

c.

d.

Quack, quack The ducks are in town at Russell’s where you can find Ducks Unlimited gear. Pick up a nice leather koozie to hold your drink and keep it cool (c.), $29.50. A man can never have too many caps, especially when the hat is made well and goes with just about everything such as this cobalt blue Ducks Unlimited hat with a white stitched duck (d.), $35.

f.

Gilded wildlife The beauty of nature can be found in this beautifully made jewelry. From turtles to cranes, Secret Garden Gallery and Boutique has a selection of wildlife jewelry to elegantly add to any outfit. A set of cranes are perfect for the nature lover in your life, to wear together or separately.

The earrings (e.), $144.95, have the perfect dangle, adding an elegant touch. The necklace has a dainty sterling silver chain to hold the standing bird, which is highlighted with gold (f.), $119.95.

g.

Cozy Scents Bundle up in a warm blanket and light a candle for the full winter ambiance. Fill those long winter nights with flittering light with handmade soy wax candles from Beaufort, North Carolina, candlemaker Sea Oats (g.) for $24. Find your candle at the Wander Company in downtown Washington.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21

j.

i. h.

Pickup and sip

Pearls of wisdom Make a sentimental statement with a gorgeous Julie Vos pearl and gold chain necklace (h.), $310. The perfect necklace to pair for an evening out, find this necklace at Russell’s in downtown Washington.

Pour a cup of Lanoca coffee (i.), $10, in handmade mugs from Salt of the Earth (j.), $24. These car and truck decorated mugs are both whimsical and practical. Whether it’s a gift for that special man in your life for Valentine’s Day or a gift to upgrade your morning cup of Joe, these mugs add a sense of vintage style to your kitchen. Why not pair it with a dark roast from Lanoca? Lanoca coffee and Salt of the Earth pottery can be found at the Wander Company in downtown Washington.

Stuck on you The perfect addition to any outfit, a beautifully made broach to add a little something extra to your style. Choose from a variety of elegantly designed pieces ranging from floral, (k.) $62,95, to dragonflies, (l.) $34.94, or geometric patterns, (m.) $19.95.

Magnetic broaches can be found at Secret Garden Gallery and Boutique in downtown Washington.

l.

n.

k.

m.

22 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

Southern attire Nothing says The South more than the words “fried” and “cotton.” Find these long-sleeved Southern Fried Cotton company shirts illustrating man’s great love of hunting (n.), $32.95, at NautiLife in downtown Washington.

WASHINGTON HARBOR DISTRICT

FINDING THE RIGHT POLICIES FOR YOU!

L O V E R S

L A N E

Valentine’s Day sweetheart ADVENTURES TO SHARE WITH YOUR

WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM While every holiday has its own special significance, Feb. 14 is a day to celebrate love. From grandiose gifts to sweet, subtle expressions of affection, Valentine’s Day is meant to be enjoyed together. While it might be tempting to lounge at home and take in a movie on TV, consider taking a new adventure with your beloved this year. Whatever your tastes, Beaufort County has plenty of options for couples in love. ⋇

FILE PHOTO

S U N S E T Bundle up for this one.

Anyone who has lived in Beaufort County for any length of time will tell you that the sunsets over the Pamlico and Pungo rivers are a sight not to be missed.

In Washington, Belhaven,

S T R O L L Bath, public parks on the waterfront make for a lovely place to bask in the beauty of twilight reflecting off the waters. So grab a bench, take your sweetheart’s hand and enjoy. You’ll be glad you did.

24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

C O Z Y

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C A B I N

A recent addition at Goose Creek State Park, a suite of six heated cabins now offer a cozy winter nest for lovebirds migrating through. Placing the park’s recreational opportunities literally at one’s doorstep, these cute cabins are each equipped with electricity and hold one queen size bed and two bunk beds in a separate room, making excellent accommodations for families or friend groups. For the RV enthusiasts, a new array of camper hookups also provides options for your stay.

PHOTO BY MATT DEBNAM

D I N E R S ’

D E L I G H T

From the upscale to the affordable, there’s no doubt that Beaufort County offers some of the finest dining options anywhere in eastern North Carolina. Locales in Washington and Belhaven, such as The Hackney, the Bank Bistro and Spoon River, each provide high-class dining options for the discerning palate, while countless eateries throughout the county offer an array of meals to suit any budget. Bon appetite!

PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

L E T ’ S

D A N C E

There’s nothing quite like cutting a rug with your sweetheart. For beginners and experts alike, there are a number of opportunities to get out on the dance floor.

On a monthly basis, U.S.A Dance Chapter 6046 offers an evening of dancing for couples and singles at Arts of the Pamlico’s Turnage Theatre. Across the street at Ribeye’s of Washington, a weekly shag dance on Thursdays offers another option. For couples just testing the waters, Le Moulin Rouge De Danse also offers ballroom dance classes on Sundays.

PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25

E S C A P E

T H E

Want to test your minds and deepen your relationship at the same time? Perhaps an escape room is for you. One local business, Diversion Escape Rooms, offers a constantly-changing setting of room-spanning puzzles

G R I N D

to bring out the Sherlock Holmes in its clients. For couples, friend groups or families as a whole, working towards the common goal of escaping one of these challenging rooms is sure to bring you closer together.

PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

APPRECIATE AN EXHIBIT While your lover’s beauty may constitute art in your eyes, a variety of galleries and museums in Beaufort County offer another outlet for appreciating aesthetic wonders.

Perhaps you’ll find something that catches your eye at one of the many art galleries in downtown Washington. Or, if history and natural science are more your thing, there are plenty of cool venues to see throughout the county. Check out the Aurora Fossil Museum, Bath Exhibit Center, Belhaven Memorial Museum and the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum, just to name a few.

PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

FIND THE PERFECT GIFT Some lovers are easy to shop for. Just knowing his or her tastes makes it easy to find the perfect gift. Others, however, can be a bit of a challenge. Fortunately, the friendly faces of local shops and boutiques throughout Beaufort County can help make this daunting task just a little bit easier. Check out the Washington the Magazine gift guide (page 20) for a few ideas on places to start.

PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

26 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

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On the Wing

From the lifelike to stylized, carved waterfowl decoys are a mainstay of the Wildlife Arts Festival.

Carolina Wildlife Arts Festival takes flight at Arts of the Pamlico WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

I

n eastern North Carolina, there has always been a strong bond between humans, the wild places and the creatures that call them home. From scenes of beauty to appreciate to harvesting what is needed to survive, nature provides. It is that intimate relationship between humanity and the wild creatures that is at the heart of the Carolina Wildlife Arts Festival.

The 2020 festival marks the third year Arts of the Pamlico has organized the event, which dates back to the early 2000s. Blending displays of wild art, handson demonstrations and skill-teaching seminars, the

Festival encompasses all of downtown Washington, from the Turnage Theatre to the North Carolina Estuarium.

“To me, fishing is an art, decoy carving is an art,” Arts of the Pamlico Executive Director Debra Torrence said. “We look at nature as art in the wild. So, we see the marriage of it as very much intertwined.”

Longtime attendees to the Wildlife Arts Festival may notice a slight change in the name this year, with the addition of the word “Carolina.” Torrence says this is intentional, with hopes of attracting new JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31

Besides being a constant companion, man’s best friend also plays a crucial role in duck hunting. A demonstration during the festival will offer a chance to see retrievers in action.

participation from South Carolina artists and outdoorsmen.

In the same vein, this year’s festival will bring both old and new. On the one hand, attendees can expect to see festival favorites such as decoy carving demonstrations and decoy painting for the kids at the N.C. Estuarium. On the other, the festival’s move to the Turnage Theatre has also created an opportunity to utilize the AOP big screen and create a longerlasting art exhibit for the public to enjoy.

Among the featured artists at the festival are Washington pyrographer Colleen Knight and Virginia Beach master decoy carver Ed Morrison. The festival will also feature retriever and decoy carving demos, as well as a fishing seminar with Mitchell Blake and an oyster health seminar with Peter Boettger.

Falling on Feb. 7 and Feb 8, this year, the festival comes during something of a slow season for downtown Washington.

Torrence says because of the timing, the festival serves as an economic driver for local businesses when they need it most.

“Merchants and restaurants are giving discounts to people who come downtown for the Wildlife Arts Festival,” Torrence said. “We also hope that it will drive their sales. We’ve been 32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

reaching out to businesses downtown to ask them to include wildlife-themed goods in their windows and for sale so it can generate business for them as well. Our hope for all our festivals is that it brings new feet on the streets.”

Serving as a pleasant backdrop for the event, Arts of the Pamlico is also issuing a call for art to be on display during the festival. Works should display wildlife and/or their habitats in the Carolinas, and may be submitted through Feb. 1, to be displayed through Feb. 29. Washington ReLeaf, an organization dedicated to planting trees locally, will sponsor a reception on Feb. 5, presenting an award for a piece of art depicting Carolina wildlife housed in a living tree.

“What we really want to do with the arts here is keep giving personal enrichment to the generations that are doing it now, but also grow the next generation of artists who love the arts, do the arts and support the arts,” Torrence said. “To me, this is about that whole continuum, which is nature—that full circle.”

Further details on the Carolina Wildlife Arts Festival, including a full schedule and instructions for submitting art, can be found at www.artsofthepamlico.org. ⋇

A visitor to the 2018 Wildlife Arts Festival tests one of a selection of duck calls available at last year’s festival.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33

SPECIAL EVENTS FEB. 7

• Sponsor opening with featured pyography artist, Colleen Knight • “NC Wild” film premiere and performance Productions with live music accompaniment

FEB. 8

• Featured artist, Colleen Knight • Decoy carving workshop with Ed Morrison • Fishing seminar with Mitchell Blake • Oyster Health Seminar with Peter Boettger • Decoy carving demos • Dog retriever demos • Decoy painting at the N.C. Estuarium • Cellograff art throughout downtown • Soap carving for kids • Vendors • “NC Wild” film premiere and performance Productions with live music accompaniment

34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

A variety of vendors sell art, crafts and other gifts during the festival, offering wildlife enthusiasts something they can take home.

FEATURED FILM “North Carolina Wild” STRS FILM PRODUCTIONS Premiering during the Wildlife Arts Festival, a new film by STRS Film Productions will blend wildlife cinematography with live music. “North Carolina WILD” is a multimedia presentation with a soundtrack produced by Pamlico Beach composer Robert Wm Watson and local recording guru Blake Scott. The duo will perform an orchestrated film score live in the Palace Theatre to accompany the film, which will screen twice during the festival, first at 7 p.m. Feb. 7 and then at 3 p.m. Feb. 8. A portion of the ticket sales will go to benefit the Turnage Theatre’s Raise the Roof Campaign. Tickets for the screenings are available for $25 cash or $27 with a credit

FEATURED ARTIST COLLEEN KNIGHT

FEATURED ARTIST ED MORRISON

While Washington artist Colleen Knight dabbles in a variety of art forms, her pyrographic depictions of wild animals are among her signature pieces of work.

With a careful hand and a sharp eye, she is able to add subtle, yet striking details to each piece of work, with carefully crafted fur and feathers bringing her art to life. Knight’s work will be on display throughout the festival, and she will offer demonstrations of her pyrography technique on both Friday and Saturday.

For decades, Virginia Beach decoy carver Ed Morrison has honed his skills, creating gorgeous, life-like carvings of waterfowl and other wild creatures.

He has been carving since 1982 and is a member of the Back Bay Wildfowl Guild and the Albemarle Craftsman’s Guild. Morrison will offer a decoy carving workshop during the festival on Feb. 8, and his works will be on display throughout the festival.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35

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John Butler stands in the arched doorway of Elmwood 1820. Two-hundred years of Elmwood owners have welcomed guests through that doorway.

38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

an

OPEN DOOR Elmwood celebrates 200 years of history

STORY AND PHOTOS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

O

n Nov. 9, 1859, Dr. David Thomas Tayloe married Mary Elizabeth Grist. The engraved invitation sent to family and friends by Mr. and Mrs. James K. Grist states simply that the wedding will occur “At Home.” There’s no address. No address was needed. Just a single word followed Elmwood.

Elmwood was then, and still is—now, the most notable property in Washington. It’s not the oldest, certainly—a trio of Federal houses on Water Street claim that distinction. It’s not even the truest to an architectural style of a certain era—over the past two centuries, too many owners have put their own touches on the original Greek Revival façade. What she is, however, is the Grande Dame of Washington, a portrait capturing the antebellum South, her story tied into Washington’s history, yesterday and today.

“We’ve always said that we’re not owners; we’re stewards. The house has played a pivotal role in Washington. She’s kind of been an ambassador for Washington and has a personality all her own. She’s been a gracious host and continues to be that,” said John Butler, co-owner of Elmwood 1820, with Richard Smoot.

As the calendar closed on 2019, this gracious lady turned 200 years old.

Built in 1820 by Col. Joshua Tayloe, the property sat on 248 acres west of Washington. Then, “west of Washington” started at modern-day Bridge Street. During the Civil War, Elmwood served as a hospital, a Union camp on its grounds and quarters for Union officers, including one Colonel Osborn who wrote: “I returned to ... an elegant house ... having my headquarters in a large, two-storey house, situated on a pleasant street, running by the side of the river. The ... furniture I have in my chamber is a marble-top centre table, marble-top bureau with toilet glass, black walnut rocking chair, and half a dozen chairs that do not rock; bedstead, large desk ... bronze and marble mantel clock. I... take my meals off china with a gilt edge, placed on a mahogany table in a large dining room. The house contains ... eight rooms besides the kitchen, which is separate.” (Roe, 1907, p. 122) “People always ask, ‘If these walls could talk what would they say?’ And sometimes I do just sit and look at the walls and wonder what they would say, because I’m sure they’ve seen a lot. … Two hundred years is a long time for anything, especially for a house,” Butler said. “What I’ve found fascinating was what was going on in the world in 1820, and what hadn’t yet happened.”

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39

This photo of Elmwood was taken after it was dramatically renovated in 1860, but before the home was moved in 1912; the Grist silver, now owned by an Elmwood neighbor; former owner Marcia Knotts’ collection of postcards sent to her from all over the world are part of the Elmwood memorabilia the current owners are collecting for the home’s 200th anniversary.

People always ask, ‘If these walls could talk what would they say?’ And sometimes I do just sit and look at the walls and wonder what they would say, because I’m sure they’ve seen a lot. …

All one has to do is check their history. In 1820, the United States of America was a newly independent country with just 22 states — 11 of them slave-holding states; the other 11 having abolished the practice. Then, the British Empire was at its most powerful, and King George IV took over the British throne on the death of his father, King George III. Samuel Morse had yet to invent the Morse code, and transportation was limited to travel by sailing ships, horseback, horse-driven carriages and walking. Boats and trains were in their infancy of being powered 40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

by steam, and cars were nearly a century away.

“Kingdoms rose and fell, nations were created and ended; there were two world wars, the Cold War, the Holocaust — not to mention our nation’s biggest war, the Civil War,” Butler said.

In her 200 years, Elmwood has been owned by only seven families: Samuel Grist would add its wrap-around porch and Italianate style in 1860; George Hackney would move the house to its current location on the south side of West Main Street in 1912. Members of the Grist family lived there for more than

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 41

50 years; a century later, the Stallings family also called Elmwood home for more than 50 years. Over time, land was parceled off and sold, the surrounding homes built, and all now contribute to Washington’s historic district.

Today, Elmwood has a surname of 1820, as the bed and breakfast Butler and Smoot opened in 2015. Now the property is open to guests: for weekend getaways; for business travelers looking for a more luxurious experience; for special events and parties; and, of course, weddings—a nod to Elmwood’s past that now contributes to its future.

“We have weddings all the time here. A number of people have walked down the stairwell into a new life.

Think about that—in 200 years, how many people have started their lives together at Elmwood? And people still are,” Butler said. “Frankly, becoming a bed and breakfast

is the only way to sustain the ongoing work that’s needed on the house.”

Upkeep on a 200-year-old home is ongoing, but Butler and Smoot also are embarking on new renovations. Next on the list is the third floor—originally a ballroom, then used for storage for many decades—which will be renovated into a suite with a den. The renovations represent the ongoing evolution of Elmwood, an evolution Butler is collecting through oral history, photos, letters and artifacts associated with Washington’s most historic home.

“Everybody always has a story, and from a tourism standpoint, I feel like the house in many ways is similar to the people in Washington: eclectic, detailed, welcoming, lots of stories to tell, lots of memories to share, very much an open door,” Butler said. ⋇

This view of Elmwood was taken from Bridge Street (U.S. Highway 17 business) in 1884, before the home was moved to its West Main Street location in 1912. The home was famed for its arbor of cedar trees lining the walk to the house.

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Neighbor Sadie Fowle talks Elmwood history with John Butler in the background; in the foreground are copies of the original architectural drawings of the 200-year-old home.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43

WHAT'S TO EAT

A second B, emphasized Elmwood 1820’s breakfast a work of decadent, and delicious, art STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | FOOD PREP BY RICHARD SMOOT

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here’s the beds — a choice of five beautiful rooms encapsulating art and history; 200 years of the past and present; comfort and luxury.

Then there’s the breakfast, which does the exact same — with a few more adjectives that may include decadent and delicious.

That’s because the owners of Elmwood 1820 bed and breakfast take their second B just as seriously as the first one.

The kitchen of Elmwood is, to Richard Smoot, the equivalent of an artist’s studio; the early morning hours logged there, the opportunity to create. He draws on the seasons to inform his menu, transitioning most recently from the spice of fall to a hearty winter.

“I kind of plan it out, and I usually have stuff on hand to make a variety of things,” Smoot said.

Smoot started cooking as a hobby when he was a young man, but as co-owner of a bed and breakfast, it’s evolved from hobby to culinary artistry.

“My mother had a photograph of me at about 10 or 11, a fat little me cooking, so I probably started cooking in the tween years. It’s just been a hobby, but for about 12 years, I had my mother, my grandmother and two teenagers living with me, so I felt like I ran a bed and breakfast anyway,” Smoot laughed.

The practice has paid off: Dutch babies, shrimp and grits, sweet-potato hash, blueberry hoecakes,

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Blue Italian china by Spode, crystal wine and water glasses and sterling flatware complete an Elmwood 1820 breakfast scenario, along with a view from the balcony of West Main Street and the home’s restored fountains.

On the breakfast menu one Sunday morning were (left to right) Summer Squash Au Gratin, Pumpkin Panna Cotta and BaconWrapped Asparagus with Maple and Brown Sugar Glaze.

oatmeal with a crème brûlée shell, seasonal panna cotta that serves as a first course — the menu is constantly changing, and changeable to suit guests’ dietary needs, whether for Keto, gluten-free and vegan diets or guests who have food allergies.

But first order of business every morning is biscuits, a constant, much-anticipated, and always devoured, side for breakfast entries.

“I always bake my biscuits from frozen. I’m sure that there’s some chemical thing to it, but I find that they rise better. So first thing in the morning, I make the biscuits, then I pop them in the freezer and then in the oven when I’m ready to bake them,” Smoot said.

The art of breakfast at Elmwood is not limited to cooking; presentation is just as important. It’s served on fine china, whether that’s a Noritake floral or a Blue Italian by Spode, surrounded by crystal and silver flatware. Before it leaves the kitchen, each breakfast entrée is inspected for visual appeal, and edible additions, such as peppers and pickled okra, up the element of artistry.

“Half the battle is if it looks good — I’ve used dried flowers, melon balls, other fruits like kiwi; cantaloupe and strawberries with blueberries is gorgeous — half the battle is presentation,” Smoot said.

Smoot has graciously shared some of Elmwood 1820’s breakfast recipes for this issue of Washington The Magazine’s food feature. ⋇

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 45

In search of the perfect Southern biscuit There are many dishes Richard Smoot serves up at Elmwood 1820 for which he’s more than willing to share the recipe. One, however, goes no further than his own kitchen — he plans to pass down this recipe to his children only.

Why the secrecy? Because Smoot spent many hours in the kitchen perfecting the recipe for Elmwood 1820’s sweet cream biscuits.

Countless batches of biscuits were made, and consumed, in his quest for the perfect biscuit: light, fluffy, a hint of sweet and layers that peel away and melt in your mouth. Figuring out how to achieve the layers was the hardest part, he said. Along the way, he enlisted Elmwood 1820 neighbor Sadie Fowle to assist the effort.

“It was kind of fun. I sort of had a general notion of a biscuit

No renowned kitchen is complete without a secret recipe or two, and Richard Smoot is definitely keeping the recipe for his light, flaky sweet cream biscuits to himself.

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recipe that I would do back home in Alabama but that was a million years ago. It was a trial and error thing. Someone said it’s almost like you’re making a croissant. It’s like a country version of a croissant. …

So Sadie, next door, I was like ‘Try this biscuit,’ ‘Try this biscuit.’ She was the guinea-pig biscuit taster,” Smoot laughed.

Smoot comes by biscuit-making naturally: his grandmother had already perfected her own recipe for large, buttermilk biscuits when he was a child. Her special ingredient was lard, and every now and then he said he trades his recipe for hers when special guests come to stay.

All other guests are more than satisfied with what has become one of Elmwood 1820’s signature delicacies — a biscuit like none other.

Sweet Potato Biscuits 2 cups self-rising flour (I’m a devotee of White Lily) plus some for dusting work surface; 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon; 4 tablespoons brown sugar; 2 teaspoons baking powder (Rumford’s); 1 (15-ounce) can of yams/sweet potatoes, drained (reserve the liquid for use); one stick chilled, unsalted butter, cut into small pieces. Garnish: melted butter for brushing tops biscuits when removed from the oven.

Accompanying a breakfast of Summer Squash Au Gratin were Bacon-Wrapped Asparagus with Maple and Brown Sugar Glaze, which makes a great side dish breakfast, lunch or dinner.

directions

Hand mash or puree canned sweet potatoes in food processor. Whisk together flour, brown sugar, cinnamon and baking powder. Using a pastry cutter, blend chilled butter into flour mixture until it resembles coarse meal. With large spatula or wooden spoon, mix in the mashed sweet potatoes until a dough comes together; add in reserved can liquid one tablespoon at a time as needed if dough seems too dry.

Turn out onto floured work surface and knead four to five times and form into a ball.

Flatten ball and roll out to approximately 1/4-inch thickness. Fold dough over onto itself (about four folds) and pat down to create a small square. Roll out into 1/2-inch thickness.

Using a 2-inch biscuit cutter, cut the biscuits (tip: push straight down and do not twist. This will “seal” the edges better and get a higher rise.)

Repeat last two steps until all dough is rolled and formed into biscuits. Transfer to a wax paper-lined baking sheet and place in the freezer. Chill or freeze until needed for baking.

Heat oven to 425 degrees. Line baking sheet with parchment paper or silicone baking mat.

Place biscuits on pan and make sure they are touching. They will support each other as they rise. Bake for 18 minutes until the tops are a light golden brown. Remove from oven and brush with melted butter. (*Chef ’s note: Bake directly from frozen.

I make a long narrow strip of aluminum foil and snugly wrap around the perimeter of the biscuits to aid in them in rising.)

Bacon Wrapped Asparagus with Maple and Brown Sugar Glaze 1 pound bunch of asparagus (makes approximately 10, four- or five-spear servings); 4 tablespoons butter, melted; 2 tablespoons brown sugar; 1 tablespoon maple syrup; 10 slices thick-sliced bacon

directions Wash and trim asparagus. Steam asparagus for 3-4 minutes until slightly tender.

Remove asparagus from steamer basket and run under cool water or place in ice bath to stop cooking.

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees. Line baking sheet with aluminum foil and spray with Pam. Place bacon on prepared baking sheet and bake for 15 minutes (until halfway done). Remove bacon from oven and cool enough to work with it.

Mix butter, brown sugar and maple syrup.

Working on a large cutting board or plate, roll up four or five asparagus spears with the one slice of the partially cooked bacon and secure with a wooden pick; return to baking pan.

Brush rolls of bacon and asparagus with butter and brown sugar mixture and return to the oven. Bake until the bacon is crispy (approximately 10 minutes). (*Chef ’s note: Use a fresh baking sheet lined with parchment paper for the bacon-wrapped bundles to reduce the fat. Long string beans work as a great substitute for the asparagus spears.)

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Spiced Sweet Potato Hash with Poached Eggs is a flavorful dish that makes ample use of Indian spices — and will warm you up on cold winter mornings.

Spiced Sweet Potato Hash with Poached Eggs 2 tablespoons of coconut oil; 1 large yellow onion, diced; 2 cloves garlic, minced; 4-6 large sweet potatoes, peeled and cubed (basically one potato per serving); 2 teaspoons smoked paprika; 1 teaspoon turmeric; 1 teaspoon cumin; 1/4 teaspoon ground chipotle powder; ½ teaspoon sea salt; 1/4 cup chopped cilantro (tip: lightly dried cilantro in the produce section works very well); 1/4 cup golden raisins or dried cranberries (optional); 4-6 poached eggs. Garnish: chopped cilantro.

directions

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Heat the coconut oil in a large skillet over medium heat and add the onion and garlic. Sauté until the onion is translucent. Add the sweet potatoes to the skillet and sprinkle with smoked paprika, turmeric, cumin, chipotle power and salt (add additional coconut oil if needed).

Cook 25-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. You want the potatoes to crisp and develop a slightly caramelized crust. Stir in the cilantro and optional raisins or cranberries. Divide into servings and top with a poached egg. Sprinkle chopped cilantro on top for garnish.

Pumpkin Panna Cotta 1 (1/4–ounce) packet Knox Gelatin; 3 tablespoons of cold water; 1 1/2 cups heavy cream; 1 cup pureed pumpkin; 1/2 cup sugar in the raw; 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon; 1/2 teaspoon nutmeg; 1 teaspoons vanilla extract; 1 tablespoons bourbon (optional). Garnish: whipped cream; cinnamon stick; sprinkle of nutmeg.

Dissolve gelatin in cold water and let sit (bloom) for five minutes. In a medium saucepan whisk together the cream, pumpkin puree, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, bring to a simmer then remove from heat.

Whisk in vanilla and optional bourbon if desired.

Pour the mixture into six small coupe glasses and place in the refrigerator to chill until set, about three hours.

To serve, garnish with fresh whipped cream, cinnamon sticks and sprinkle with nutmeg.

Summer (Yellow) Squash Au Gratin 6 yellow squash, washed and thinly sliced; 1 pound breakfast sausage (I love Jimmy Dean); 2 (+/-) tablespoons of olive oil; 1 large yellow onion; 8 eggs, beaten; 4 tablespoons of whole milk or half-and-half; 6 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese, divided; 4 tablespoons sugar; 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour; ½ teaspoon salt; ½ teaspoon red pepper flakes; ¼ teaspoon ground black pepper; one stick butter, melted. Garnish: shredded cheddar cheese; strips of roasted red peppers; pickled okra.

Breakfast is served by Richard Smoot to guests of Elmwood 1820.

Smoot puts emphasis on the second “B” of B&B with multi-course, gourmet meals.

directions Preheat oven to 375 degrees. In a skillet, break breakfast sausage into small chunks and cook thoroughly until browned. Remove from heat and drain on paper towel and save for later use.

In a separate (large) skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the onion and sauté until the onion is translucent. Add yellow squash to the cooked onion mixture and cook for 10-15 minutes, until the squash is tender.

In a large bowl, mix the beaten eggs, milk (or half-and-half), flour, sugar, salt, red pepper flakes and black pepper. Mix in half of the shredded cheddar cheese, reserving the rest for the topping. Add the cooked squash mixture and the melted butter to the egg and milk mixture and thoroughly combine. Stir in cooked sausage.

Spray 9-by-13-inch baking dish with Pam and pour in mixture. Top with remaining shredded cheddar cheese.

Bake for 35-40 minutes until the cheese top is melted and starting to brown. Remove from oven and let rest for 15 minutes. (*Chef ’s note: This recipe is easily halved. Zucchini works well as a substitute for the yellow squash.)

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49

CAST A LINE

Fend off Cabin Fever with Winter Fishing

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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

inter fishing in our area can be some of the best fishing of the year, and it’s something that grows on you the more you do it. Personally, I’d rather fish in the winter than the summer, as ten years of guiding anglers during the winter months has me more fired up than ever about fishing in the winter. While all of the fish we target can be caught during the winter, for several reasons, only the striped bass, speckled trout, and the shad can be caught with any consistency. Some fish just don’t respond well to cooler water temperatures while others thrive.

Arguably the best winter fishery is our river striped bass fishing. Most of the best fishing occurs up in the “flowing” portions of our coastal rivers (i.e. the Neuse above New Bern, the Tar above Washington, and the Roanoke from its mouth upriver). The striper fishery on the lower Roanoke is where I spend most of my time in the winter. The Tar and Neuse are both capable of impressive fishing at times, but the Roanoke is a different animal. It’s just a fish factory for striped bass, and the numbers of fish in that river during the winter months (January through March) is staggering. Good days of fishing easily produce catches of 100+ fish in a 6-hour outing. Even on slower days when conditions are just not quite right or the fish are more scattered, we can still bang out 20-40 or so. Not only is the fishing outstanding, but the scenery is also breathtaking. The Roanoke River floodplain is one of the largest and least disturbed bottomland hardwood forests in the Southeastern United States and is partly comprised of the 21,000 acre Roanoke River National Wildlife Refuge.

While this is not our “home” river, it’s just a short drive north of Washington,

Tripp and Henry Andrews show off their hickory shad they caught in the Tar River last February.

and a true treasure of this state.

One of the other quality winter fisheries is our annual shad migration.

Growing up in Tarboro, I can’t help but be a shad fisherman. There’s an old saying in Tarboro about the shad: “In Tarboro, there’s no such thing as March Madness, just March Shadness!” There are two very distinct and different species of shad: American (white) shad and Hickory shad.

The shad begin migrating into our coastal rivers around mid-February (although a few of the most hardcore shadsters always catch a few in late January depending on river conditions) and they remain in our rivers to spawn until early April (and some will stay even later). The American shad prefer faster current and rocky river bottom, so most of them will migrate as far up the river as they can. On the Tar, the best American shad fishing is closer to the Rocky Mount Mill dam in Rocky

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Mount’s Battle Park. On the Roanoke, it’s often best upriver of Weldon closer to the Roanoke Rapids Lake dam near Gaston. The Hickory shad tend to congregate in more downriver areas and often prefer swampy tributaries.

Fishing for winter striped bass and shad can be effective using spinning and fly gear. The techniques and locations can be learned, but if you are unfamiliar with winter fishing opportunities in our area, I encourage you to schedule a guided fishing trip to investigate for yourself.

More information on winter fishing can be found on my website at www.tarpamguide. com. See you on the water!

Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com.⋇

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51

WORD ON WINE

WINES for

WRITTEN BY MARY MEHLICH | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH REED

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ine and romance: They often go hand in hand. From fancy Valentine’s Day dinner reservations to something a little simpler like wine and roses, or pairing a round of chocolate with a classy glass of vino, Cupid claims some serious turf when it comes to wine for your Valentine.

Maybe it’s the anticipation of soon exchanging winter weather for the warmer days of spring, the easy-going food pairing versatility, or even simply the color, but rosé wines (with and without bubbles) often top the list of best Valentine’s Day wine finds. Sweeter styles, from red-themed sparkling Italian dessert wines to Portugal’s best-fortified wines, also tend to make their mark on Valentine’s Day wine selections. You’re sure to find the perfect bottle to toast to your love on this list.

Mary Mehlich is the owner of Wine & Words & Gourmet in downtown Washington. ⋇

VALENTINE’S DAY French Champagne

French Chenin Blanc (Sweet)

South African Sweet Shiraz

Pierre Moncuit Brut

Domaine Coteaux De L’aubance

Jam Jar

Rich, round and creamy is how is this Blanc De Blancs Brut is described. Pairs well with dessert.

A fresh, fruity wine described as the perfect combination of sweet and spicy.

Pairs well with smoked meat, spicy pasta and bacon cheeseburgers.

Spanish Cava Rosé

A sweet, elegant Chenin Blanc from the Anjou region. Great on its own, with charcuterie or mildly spiced dishes.

Italian Moscatod’asti

Juve y Camps Rosado

Gianni

Oregon Pinot Noir

A pinot noir rose with loads of character.

Pairs well with cheese, fish and rice and pasta dishes.

A dry and lightly sweet sparkling wine; great as an aperitif or dessert drink.

Jovino

Italian Malvasia Red Sweet Epoca Malvasia di Casorzos

From the Willamette Valley, this pinot noir is soft, friendly and full of bright cherry flavors. Great with beef, veal, game and poultry.

An Italian dessert wine ranging in color from pink to ruby red; described as sweet, soft and slightly aromatic.

California Zinfandel

South African Red Sparkler

A big, red wine with chocolate and cherry flavors and a hint of spice pairs well with grilled red meat.

Four Secrets Shiraz

A peppery, fruity wine that pairs well with roast beef or rack of lamb.

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Saldo

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DINING GUIDE KNOW WHERE TO GO T

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TRAVEL & LEISURE

DESTINATION: RIVER & TWINE LOCATION: ROCKY MOUNT, NORTH CAROLINA DISTANCE: 58 MILES TIME: 1 HOUR AND 58 MILES. ADDRESS: 24 E. ELM ST., ROCKY MOUNT, NC, 27804

River Twine for a tiny good time WRITTEN BY MITCHELL THOMAS PHOTOS BY ARIKA JORDAN & MARGO METZGER

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f you’re looking for a little weekend getaway, the largest, tiny house hotel of its kind belongs to the River & Twine in Rocky Mount. Along the banks of the Tar River, on the Rocky Mount Mills campus, River & Twine presents 20 tiny houses and three guest suites for visitors’ leisure.

These elegant, tiny abodes are a unique collection of houses that are available to rent on a nightly basis. The Mill area that surrounds it offers restaurants, breweries, art and music just a short walk away.

River & Twine opened in June 2019 and has already seen an influx of interest from visitors.

“We’re getting a lot of weekend traffic,” Julie Baggett, the River & Twine manager said. “The weekend getaways and stay-cations for Friday and Saturday — we’ve seen a lot of that. We’ve also been working with the tournaments that are held at the sports complex nearby that holds baseball, softball and soccer tournaments. Then, the downtown events center has indoor sports, so we’ve gotten lot of traffic from them. There’s also a lot of corporate events held on the Mills campus, and they sometimes stay weeknights at the River & Twine.”

Nearby are five craft breweries, three restaurants, a coffee shop and a bottle shop.

“There’s live entertainment at the breweries every Friday and Saturday night; we do concerts on the lawn throughout the year,” Baggett continued.

The Rocky Mount Mills itself has a long history: it was built on the river around 1818.

“It was a running cotton mill that produced cotton yarn and twine up until 1996 when it closed,” real estate manager Evan Covington Chavez said. “In 2007, Capital Broadcasting purchased the Mill. We began work on it in 2013 and opened up the Koi Pond Brewery. That was the first commercial business to open up on campus in 2014. Then, we started renovating Mill houses that same year and have completed

This view is of the downstairs area from one of the elegant, tiny homes at the River & Twine in Rocky Mount.

55 to 60 of those. We’ve really ramped up building the area and filled the gaps the last couple of years until now. About one-third of the property that we have is up, occupied and active.”

There are tons of things to do around the area, and it is only about an hour drive from most parts of Beaufort County.

“We are the type of place that you have to see to believe,” Chavez said. “There’s so much to talk about and so many things to do that coming for a weekend at the River & Twine can mean anything from retreating in your tiny home, enjoying the fire pits and maybe grabbing a pizza, to an all-out birthday party, family reunion — you name it.

We would encourage anybody to come by and visit. You can find out everything we’ve got going on online, including a great newsletter that you can subscribe to on www. rockymountmills.com. This is basically our way of saying that there’s so much to do around here, that you should spend the night.”

As for future plans for the River & Twine, they plan on “reintroducing the river” to the area. The Tar River runs right through the Mill campus and is a known hot spot for fishing. According to Baggett, they are working with the city to find a way to create openings for their guests to do some fishing and other river activities within the next six to 12 months.

You can find all the details about renting a tiny home from the River & Twine at www.riverandtwine.com. ⋇

The Rocky Mount Mill that has been up since 1818, used to be a cotton mill for producing yarn and twine up until 1996.

The Mill sits right outside the campus of the River & Twine.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57

OUT & ABOUT

CALENDAR JANUARY ALL MONTH Music Jams Turnage Theatre

Beaufort County Traditional Music Association open jams Thursday nights from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. No fee. For more information, visit www.bctma.org/ or call 252-946-2504, 252-721-1753.

Jan. 1

First Day Hike Goose Creek State Park

10 a.m. Start off the year with a hike along the Pamlico River while looking for waterfowl and other wildlife along the way. Dress for the weather and meet in the last parking lot on the main road. Call 252-923-2191 for more information.

Jan. 16

Historic lecture series

Jan. 24

Art Walk

North Carolina Estuarium

Downtown Washington

5:30 – 7 p.m. Historic Port of Washington quarterly lecture series on topics of historical interests in and around the Washington waterfront. Admission is free; donations welcomed. Call 252-948-0000 to reserve a seat.

6 – 8 p.m. Join downtown galleries and merchants during late business hours for new exhibits, sales, prizes and refreshments.

Jan. 18

Mardi Gras Gala Turnage Theatre

7 p.m. Arts of the Pamlico’s annual fundraiser gala — colorful outfits encouraged! Complimentary drink.

Tasty Mardi Gras food will be served.

Live and DJ music for dancing all night.

50/50 drawing, card games and more — all for the arts! Tickets are $60 cash discount/$62 credit card. Reserved tables for 8 are $100; limited in number. Call 252946-2504 for more information.

Jan. 24

Drum Circle

Jan. 28

North Carolina Duck Stamp Competition Washington Civic Center

10 a.m. Exhibit from of entries from across the country, all competing to be the next annual Wildlife Conservation North Carolina Duck Stamp. Email paula@littlewashingtonnc.com for more information.

Jan. 31

Murder Mystery Theatre Turnage Theatre

Join Arts of the Pamlico’s actor leading a night of food, entertainment and guest participation in a who-dun-it for the ages.

Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

Belhaven

Jan. 4

Guitarfest Turnage Theatre

2 – 10 p.m. 7th-annual Guitarfest presented by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. Visit www.bctma.org/ or call 252-946-2504 for more information.

Jan. 9

Senior Dance Washington Civic Center

7 p.m. Singles and couples over 40 are welcome to come and dance the night away. Admission is $8. 50/50 drawing.

Door prizes. No alcohol/so smoking/no children.

If you have never attended a drum circle around a bonfire, you don’t want to miss the family fun to launch the inaugural Pickin’ on the Pungo Bluegrass Festival!

Downtown Belhaven. Free. 252-943-3770.

Jan. 25-27

Friends of Brown Library Book Sale Washington Civic Center

Stop by the Annual Friends of Brown Library Book Sale, where the entire building is filled with books, from rare to children’s books, coffee table to best sellers … you can find it all at this annual sale. Call 252946-4300 for more information.

Jan. 25

Jan. 16

Pickin’ on the Pungo

Brown Library

10 a.m. Inaugural bluegrass festival sponsored by Arts of the Pamlico/Belhaven Community Chamber of Commerce. Tickets $10 in advance. For tickets or festival information, call 252-946-2504.

A Bite of History 2 p.m. Speaker Jerome Tyson will be speaking about Oakdale and Cedar Hill cemeteries. Call 252-946-4300 for more information.

Belhaven

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FEBRUARY ALL MONTH

Music Jams Turnage Theatre

Beaufort County Traditional Music Association open jams Thursday nights from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. No fee. For more information, visit www.bctma.org/ or call 252-946-2504, 252-721-1753.

Feb. 7-9

East Carolina Wildlife Arts Festival Turnage Theatre Washington Civic Center

See true artistry in wildlife arts with vendors from across the East Coast.

Featuring wildlife art vendors, retriever demonstrations, carving demonstrations and a wildlife film premiere. Call 252-9462504 for more information.

ADVERTISER INDEX Feb. 8

Youth Decoy Painting Workshop North Carolina Estuarium

9 a.m. and 11 a.m. Join us in passing on the time-honored art of decoy painting to the next generation of naturalist and outdoors men and women at the 18th-annual Youth Decoy Painting Workshop. To register, call 252-948-0000.

Feb. 8

Improv Turnage Theatre

7 p.m. Be a part of the hilarious action with I.C. Improv’s comedy show, $5 admission.

Feb. 13

Senior Dance Washington Civic Center

7 p.m. Singles and couples over 40 are welcome to come and dance the night away. Admission is $8. 50/50 drawing.

Door prizes. No alcohol/so smoking/no children.

Feb. 14

Amorous Nature of The Estuary North Carolina Estuarium

5:30 – 7 p.m. Wine and Cheese tasting to celebrate our love of nature. $15 per person. Reservations are required by Feb. 7. Call 252-948-0000 for reservations or questions.

Feb. 15

Oyster Roast Selby Farm Shop, Bath

4 p.m. Bath High School Preservation’s annual Oyster Roast with extras.

Fundraiser for ongoing Old Bath High School renovation into a community center for all. Email paula@littlewashingtonnc. com for more information.

Feb. 21

Concert in the Dark Turnage Theatre

Come enjoy a fun night out and support the blind and visually impaired of eastern North Carolina. Heavy hors d’oeuvres will be offered and then a musical concert with the option to wear a blindfold to simulate a blind experience. Ticket price and additional information are at www. theblindcenter.org or call 252-946-6208.

Adams & Associates 27 AG’s Home Solutions 28 Beaufort County Schools 5 Beaufort Equipment 64 Bertie Ambulance Service 37 Bertie Peanuts 37 Beth Wilder - Respess Realty 28 Big Bargain Furniture 9, 23 Bloom Women’s Apparel 23 Bragaw Insurance 19 Carolina Wind Yacht Brokerage 23 Carryout by Chrislyn 55 Century 21 Real Estate 63 Coastal Insurance 8 Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty 3 Cottage Junkies 23 Daughtridge Patio 28 Dellinger’s Pawn 23 Dowry Creek Marina 67 El Charrito 54 Executive Personnel Group 63 Feyer Ford 2 First Bank Wealth Management 65 Gail Kenefick - Coastal Rivers Realty 28 Greenville Marine & Outdoor 37 Highwater Social Club 28 Inner Banks Outfitters 28 Jones & McKinney, P.A. 23 King Chicken 29 Marabella 19 Mauri E. Alligood - State Farm Insurance 36 Mi Fiesta 54 Nan McClendon - The Rich Co. 19 NERSBA 37 Noria Nomaz - Coastal Rivers Realty 28 Norman’s Home Furnishings 27 River Street Networks 36 Robinson Jewelers 19 Rod & Jordan Cantrell - Edward Jones 27 Ryan Whitford - AssureVest Insurance Group 55 Scott’s Apothocary 65 Servpro 28 Slade Landscaping 65 Sloan Insurance 23 Steamers Carpet Cleaning 28 Stewart’s Jewelry Store 7 The Rich Company 55 United Country Respess Real Estate 23 Vidant Health Systems 68 Washington Funeral Home 36 Washington Montessori Public Charter School 55 Washington Yacht & Country Club 63 Watsi Sutton - Attorney at Law 23 Wine & Words ... & Gourmet 54

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CAPTURE THE COUNTY

INTO THE MIST PHOTOS BY ASHLEY VANSANT LOCATION: HAVENS GARDEN

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It’s a common sight during late fall and early winter; the Pamlico still charged with enough heat to bathe the landscape in a wash of cool fog, the evergreens soaking in a refreshing mist. Though this marine layer may occur often during these ‘shoulder seasons’, the scene is never replicated—almost imperceptibly rising and falling on the whims of a gentle breeze. It’s a vivid reminder that the Pamlico is never the same river twice.

JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61

The caw of the common sea gull, relegated to the sandy shores of the Atlantic during the summer months, can be heard along the Pamlico as they retreat to the relative calm of the inner banks during winter. Here, they can scour for food among the brackish tides and, as they do, socialize in sedentary flocks.

62 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2020

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WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON

Embracing the s l o w

T

WRITTEN BY BRIAN FULLER | PHOTOGRAPH BY MICHELLE CLANCY

he clock slows here along the Pamlico. The sun seeps low and easy into the western tree line and ignites the sky in a brilliant fire. People stop to watch. They stop along the waterfront and in farm fields. Some set their watches and wander to the end of piers that finger out into the river to marvel in the moment.

This is a defining characteristic of Washington, and it’s a reason I moved here from San Francisco this year. I remember riding through town my first time here five years ago and being charmed by the downtown district and that eye-popping waterfront. Here was a place of possible.

Forever will I be grateful to my squeeze, Michelle Clancy, who introduced me to the place where she raised her daughter, Kylee. And, after Michelle and I experienced back-to-back cancer adventures in the past three years, we sought to slow down the clock. It was in Washington where that would happen.

For me, slowing down is easier said than done. I’m a fifth-generation San Franciscan, descendant from an honestto-goodness 49er. For years, I embraced the double-timing chaos of the Bay Area.

But I work in Silicon Valley where people don’t pause except in endless, soulsucking traffic. There is an unnatural rhythm to living there.

Here, I twist time to my advantage.

No longer do I have a three- or four-hour commute each day. I use that newfound time to sip coffee and chat with my neighbor. I chat with the Bible women who come by to preach the good word.

Michelle might be hustling out of the downtown market to the next errand but

I’m still yakking with Arthur the baker back inside. Tick … Tock.

Here, I nose the boat out into the Pamlico and cut the engine, and there you’ll find me in my floating office, complete with a laptop and cellular modem, tapping away. In the evening, we use it to motor up to one of the wonderful downtown restaurants or to Backwater Jack’s for dinner. Afterwards, we motor home under a bright hovering moon, and the wonder of it all — such a gift — makes me tear up.

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Here, I hit the end of the pier at sunset to cast a lure into the waters and hope for the best. I could catch nothing, but the view and the meditation is matchless.

There is, as the Stoic philosophers said, no time like the present. And there’s no better place to enjoy it and embrace the peaceful slow than right here; no better place to listen as the clock slows to the local rhythms and the lapping waters of the river.

Brian Fuller, a recent transplant to Washington, is a longtime journalist now working as a technical writer. ⋇

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