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THE EVOLUTION OF MAIN STREET 245 years of history down one street
RIVER COTTAGE,
“little piece of heaven” 40th anniversary
OF SOUND RIVERS
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA
2 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
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In this issue
FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS RIVER COTTAGE A LITTLE PIECE 20 OF HEAVEN: River cottage a link to the past, and to family
20 CLEAN RIVER 28
IN EVERY ISSUE 6 10 12 50 55 56 58 60 66
Publisher’s Note The Scene What's in Store What’s to Eat Dining Guide Wine Column Cast a Line Travel & Leisure Why I Love Washington
VOICE FOR THE RIVER: Sound Rivers marks 40 years of fighting for clean water
28 GOING DOWNTOWN 38
EVOLUTION OF MAIN STREET: 245 years old and still beating strong
38 ANIMAL LOVE 44
BEST FRIEND: The love and support animals provide
44 4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
The corner of Main and Market streets looked vastly different in 1915. Paving the intersection of Main and Market Streets was the final step in re-opening the roads to vehicle traffic. Read more about the evolution of Main Street on page 38 (photos contributed by Jack Willard and Ray Midgett).
PREPARING FOR THE FUTURE. WE'RE GLAD YOUR STUDENT IS WITH US.
BEAUFORT COUNTY SCHOOLS • 252.946.6593 • www.beaufort.k12.nc.us JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 5
A NOTE FROM ASHLEY
WELCOMING A NEW YEAR,
new look on Main Street
D
owntown Washington is a special place, cherished by visitors and residents alike. And Main Street has been the heart of downtown for more than 200 years. Those who have long called Washington home might have fond memories of past parades, hotels and department stores. For day-trippers last weekend, it might be the galleries, markets, restaurants and small businesses that drew them in. Change has rolled through our community on horse and buggy and semi truck. Downtown has been an ever-changing reflection of the times. A stroll down Main Street today reveals the character of countless business owners and city leaders, past and present. But the vision of one in particular looms as large as the man and personality behind it. Mac Hodges is evident here. The late Washington mayor loved his town and was particularly dedicated to improving Main Street and the Washington waterfront. To see his vision become a reality and know that it will be enjoyed by so many, is a heartwarming consolation to the fact Hodges never got to see today’s new-and-improved Main Street for himself. Join us as we take a look at the evolution of Main Street on page 38. River cottages, camp houses and summer homes dot the banks of the Pamlico River. They each have their own stories to tell. For the Paschal family, cool breezes, rickety boats and crab pickin’s at a Summer Haven house have meant a ‘little piece of heaven” for four generations. Recount the memories so rich and vivid you can almost hear the water ripple on page 20. Sound Rivers is celebrating its 40th anniversary in 2021, marking years of work to keep local rivers swimmable, fishable and drinkable. The organization has come a long way from its early kitchen-table meetings to becoming a powerful advocate for watershed protection. Look back on the journey on page 28. Owning a pet can be good for your health, both physically and mentally. Both aspects have been top-of-mind in the pandemic world that emerged in 2020. Check in with local residents to see how animals have made their lives richer on page 44. Turning the page on 2020 couldn’t happen soon enough for many residents of Washington and Beaufort County. As we hope to put many of the hardships and challenges of the past year in the rearview, let’s also look forward to safe, happy and healthy 2021.
Ashley Vansant, Publisher
We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine. to us
6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Steve Barnes Chelsea Hofmann Vail Stewart Rumley Brandon Tester Contributors Richard Andrews Ric Carter Henry Capogna Anthony Comella Bobby Davis Carleigh Flynn Brian Fuller Ernie Larkin Mary Mehlich Paschal Family Ray Midgett Sound Rivers Sylvan Heights Bird Park Jack Willard Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Kristen Smith Scott Williamson Distribution Kim Riggs Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2021, Washington Newsmedia, LLC. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 7
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THE SCENE LIGHT UP THE CITY On Nov. 24, the Washington Harbor District Alliance and the City of Washington hosted hosted Light Up the City, an event meant to bring some Christmas spirit to the area while also giving the public a chance to check out the newly refurbished Main Street. After the lights on Main Street were ceremoniously turned on, those in attendance had a chance to visit many of the shops and restaurants in that area.
Jessa Oliver, Angie Robertson, Willow Hooker, Johanna Hooker and Arlo Hooker
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10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
Olivia, Chad, Noah and Amy Schafer
WHAT'S IN STORE
A piece of
Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED
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Nutty mix Fix & Fogg provides a wide range of flavor to gourmet peanut butter (f). Find the perfect peanut butter at Flying Pig Provisions in downtown Washington. Choose flavors ranging from coffee and maple to super crunchy texture, with a $10.95 price tag. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13
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Licence love Find unique and personalized license plate trays (o) from favorite travel spots or to your hometown, $25. Trinket trays can be found at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.
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JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 15
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Small town towel Decorate the kitchen with small town love. Add a tea towel (u.) to the rack and spread the love of your favorite small town, $19.95. Find a variety of tea towels at Flying Pig Provisions..
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A LITTLE PIECE OF
H E AV E N
The Paschal river cottage, long a summertime haven for many generations of the Paschal family, as it appeared in October.
A moment from long ago, Herbert R. Paschal Jr. and his mother, Annis Beaman Paschal, are pictured on the sandy shore in front of the family’s river house at Summer Haven (left). Annis Paschal Lyles and husband Greg Lyles plan to rebuild the river house that was flooded by Hurricane Florence (above).
River cottage a link to the past, and to family
T
STORY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY & BOBBY DAVIS
ucked between cypress and pine, a rare sight can be sometimes be seen along the river — structures that appear out of place among the modern, waterfront family homes with their walls of windows and layers of decking. These time-worn houses sit low on their lots, their only similarity to one another age and large, screenedin porches overlooking the Pamlico.
Called camps, river cottages or summer homes, they were crafted and cobbled together with native wood many, many years ago. Retreats from the brutal heat of town during the summer months, their basic design was oriented toward one thing: capturing a cool river breeze. Built to withstand the many storms, their minimalist construction meant only a good scrubbing was needed after floodwaters rolled in and out again. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21
The Paschal family’s river cottage at Summer Haven was one of them. “It has weathered a ton of storms,” said Annis Paschal Lyles. “The water would come in, and they’d just wash it out. There was no heat, no AC, you’d just wash it after the storm.” For the Paschal family, that ended with Hurricane Florence in September 2018. This time, the floodwaters reached a height of six feet in the cottage built by Lyles’ grandparents, Annis and Herbert Paschal Sr., in 1939. Even more critical was the water remaining in the house for more than 24 hours as the storm hovered over eastern North Carolina for nearly three days. The cottage was not salvageable — after consulting with several contractors, none could guarantee black mold hadn’t rooted and would eventually spread. For Lyles, the demolition of the Paschal family’s river cottage in October was an unfortunate, but inevitable, choice. “There are so few of those houses remaining that are still intact,” Lyles said. “But it’s about the place. You have fabulous memories of the house, but you can rebuild.” Those fabulous memories start with stories of how Herbert Paschal Sr., an executive vice president of the Bank of 22 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
(Clockwise from top, opposite page) Annis Paschal Lyles holds a photo of what the Pamlico River shoreline at Summer Haven looked like when her grandfather, Herbert R. Paschal Sr., built the family’s river cottage. Rich pine walls surround the stairs traveled by generations of little, bare feet. A vintage advertisement for fishing lures, shells atop the living room mantel and a barometer made to predict weather long before televised weather forecasts are a few heirlooms that were as much a part of the river cottage as the summer breeze off the Pamlico.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 23
Though it had weathered many a storm, after Hurricane Florence in 2018, no contractor could guarantee black mold wouldn’t be a future problem in the Paschal river cottage. The house was torn down in October 2020, with plans to rebuild.
Washington, built the house himself, with the help of friends. who would gather the Summer Haven kids on the porch and Later, parents Dot and Herbert Paschal Jr., courted at Summer regale them with stories about their summer place. Haven, before raising their own children — Lyles, brothers “I remember this like yesterday. My father was a great orator, Herb III and Doug and sister Pat — on summers at “the river and he would sit down all the kids from down the beach and cottage”— home away tell them stories about from their family home in Blackbeard. He did his I don’t think there’s been a place in my thesis on the Tuscarora Greenville. “For over 30 years, Indians, and he made it life — and I’ve been all over the world — school would end, and the come to life for us in a entire family would move different way than just the that I’ve had so much joy and blessing to the house for three beauty, but the history of from being down there. And that wasn’t months. Every summer of that part of the world, of my life was spent there,” the state, that he loved,” just my family; it was all families. Lyles said. Lyles said. “She always called “I didn’t have too many Everybody was a big family. it her ‘little piece of years with my father,” Pat PAT PASCHAL heaven,’” said Pat Paschal Paschal said. “He loved to of her mother, Dot. “She fish, and he would wake said it all my life.” me up at 5 in the morning Summer on the river to go out on these ricketywas itself an education: sailing, waterskiing, fishing and rack boats, to the creeks across the river. And I hated fishing, crabbing, learning the river and the history surrounding it. Herb but I loved spending time with my father.” Paschal Jr. was an East Carolina University history professor, Like many of the small communities of river cottages that 24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
grew along the Pamlico from the 1920s to the 1960s, the same families returned year after year, and lifelong friendships were made, then spanned generations. “I really just remember the friendships that we had at the river that were only there during the summertime,” Pat Paschal said. “Everybody was always in everybody’s house, and everybody was always on the beach. I don’t think there’s been a place in my life — and I’ve been all over the world — that I’ve had so much joy and blessing from being down there. And that wasn’t just my family; it was all families. Everybody was a big family.” Everybody pitched in for the annual crab-pickin’ and every Fourth of July, the families would gather for a potluck and set off fireworks, often competing with neighboring Shady Banks as to which river cottage enclave had the most impressive display. It was community at its best, in a more innocent time. “I would have to say my best memory of the place was the summer air blowing through the house. Even on the hottest days, every window was open. And going to bed, listening to water ripple — if you were lucky enough to get the front room, you may have even seen the moon shining on the water, as well,” Doug Paschal said. “We had such wonderful times. We lived on the water, and it was dog heaven. There were dogs everywhere,” Lyles laughed. “In today’s world, it’s almost impossible to find places like that anymore, where you can let the children just go. There was no lock on the door — there’s never been a lock. That tells you something about the community.” Four generations of the Paschal family have enjoyed summers at Summer Haven. For the Paschal children, sharing the river cottage with spouses, children and now grandchildren has meant sharing family history. And that will continue when the Lyles rebuild at Summer Haven — a simple house, not too different from the original cottage. “I’m still sailing, and I’m still, at 64, waterskiing — that’s how much it’s in my blood,” Lyles said. “My parents, my grandparents, loved sharing it with everyone. My hope is that we can continue that when we rebuild.” “One thing I am so excited about is, if I could start the next life again, it wouldn’t be any different,” Pat Paschal said. “That my daughters will have the same feel, that is, a place that is filled with love and good feelings, summer after summer, and now that I know that my first grandchild will have that? The house will be different, but it will still be family.” ⋇
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26 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 27
Then Pamlico-Tar River Foundation President Tom Howard leads a symbolic funeral procession downtown during Washington’s Summer Festival on July 31, 1989. The river that year had been declared “commercially dead” by the North Carolina Division of Marine Fisheries. (PHOTO BY RIC CARTER)
Sound Rivers marks 40 years of fighting for clean water
I
WRITTEN BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY SOUND RIVERS
t’s a clear, crisp November day in eastern North Carolina, and high above the lowlands surrounding the Trent and Neuse rivers, Katy Langley Hunt is on a mission. Through the window of a twin-propeller Cessna, Hunt points out two massive lagoons — dull pink rectangles of hog waste scoring the flat land — just steps from the banks of the Trent River. “Those were completely inundated during Hurricane Florence,” she says. “Hundreds of thousands of gallons of waste went into the river.” Hunt is the Lower Neuse Riverkeeper, and she — like her counterparts on the Upper Neuse, Matthew Starr, and PamlicoTar, Jill Howell — regularly take to the waterways and skies to surveil potential sources of water pollution. They’re the latest crew of Riverkeepers, carrying on a fight for clean water that’s been waged for decades. That battle began when two communities, separated by many miles of the Coastal Plain, took the health of the rivers in their own hands. Today, they are Sound Rivers, a merger of two of the oldest environmental
28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
organizations in North Carolina, now celebrating 40 years of being a voice for our rivers. SOUND RIVERS Forty years ago, a fundamental change had taken place in the Neuse and Tar-Pamlico rivers. Fish and crab, so abundant in previous decades, had declined. Forests of sea grass had disappeared, seemingly overnight. “I grew up here, and I was born in ’48. I lived on the river, so I spent my childhood in the river. It was a blissfully ignorant time, an innocent time. We had no environmental concerns,” said Linda Boyer, who grew up at Summer Haven, just east of Washington. “Then, gradually, the area became more developed. We had a lot more houses on the river. We had a lot more serious, big farming. We had industry come in. Gradually the river became degraded because of all those factors, you know, slowly trickling down into the river. People started noticing fewer fish, fewer crabs; we started getting crab diseases. The future of the river — people started getting concerned about
Durham Creek is one of many waterways that make up the Albemarle-Pamlico estuarine system (photo by Sound Rivers board member and one of the founders of the Pamlico-Tar River Foundation, Dr. Ernie Larkin).
what would happen if there was no regulation.” The change was not going unnoticed further south, on the Neuse. “Back then, we swam; we didn’t get infections. We fished, we floundered, just really enjoyed it and didn’t think particularly of what the water might contain,” said Grace Evans, a lifelong sailor who first sailed the Neuse in 1960, then made the area her permanent home in 1972. “The first thing that we noticed back then was that there was a lot of trash, whether it was beer cans or just whatever people had thrown overboard — washing machines, toilets, hunters throwing deer carcasses in the creek. There was a lot of litter.” But as massive fish kills began to occur regularly, clogging beaches and waterways with the dead and dying, a movement was started. THE EARLY DAYS: ON THE PAMLICO “It’s interesting to see the evolution of the organization, how we got from the kitchen table to the organization we have now. At the start, there was no staff, and I don’t know when or where we decided to call ourselves a board — that was a little presumptive on our part — but we just did what we needed to do to get things done,” laughed Dr. Ernie Larkin, one of the
founders of Pamlico-Tar River Foundation. PTRF, indeed, made its start around the kitchen table in the Summer Haven home of Ross and Linda Boyer. “What were those early meetings like? Very long,” Boyer laughed. “We had two babies, and I would put the babies to bed, and I would sit in on the meetings. There was a lot to talk about, a lot to learn, a lot to try to come to grips with.” Under the leadership of Dick Leach and Billy Jackson, seated at that table were long-time Summer Haven residents and other river-lovers determined to put a stop to the river’s decline. The first order of business was to sway Beaufort County commissioners from approving a plan to allow Texasgulf Chemicals Company to mine the riverbed at its Aurora site — and they did. Throughout the remaining decade, Pamlico-Tar River Foundation led public resistance to many proposals that would have damaged the river, wetlands and more, and worked with Texasgulf, the state and other environmental agencies to resolve another ongoing issue at the Aurora facility: nutrient pollution. Nutrient may seem like an innocuous term, but when some nutrients are dumped into waterways, they feed algae which leads to massive algal blooms and de-oxygenated water that kills fish in equally massive quantities. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 29
Upper Neuse Riverkeeper Matthew Starr samples water to test for heavy metals near a Duke Energy coal ash pond after Hurricane Matthew in 2016. In addition to fieldwork, Starr also acts as a lobbyist for Sound Rivers at the Capitol and serves on several urban stormwater planning boards. 30 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
“Some of it was just direct negotiation with (Texasgulf). I remember just going down there and talking to those folks and hearing what they had to say. And they did something; they changed their process with wastewater to recycle it,” Larkin said. “They were dealing with a lot of phosphates, a lot of nutrients, that they were putting in the water, and they knew that and did something about it.” 1989 was a turning point, however. It was the year the TarPamlico River Basin was declared Nutrient Sensitive Waters by the Division of Environmental Management — those responsible for nutrient overloads needed to stop. It was also the year the Division of Marine Fisheries declared the river “commercially dead,” so decimated was the commercial fishing and crabbing industry. On the Neuse, things were no better. THE EARLY DAYS: ON THE NEUSE “As a kid, I always wanted to be fisherman, but my mother and father talked me out of it,” said Rick Dove. Dove got his chance, however, after earning a law degree, then getting a draft notice for Vietnam that resulted in a 20-plus-year career in the U.S. Marine Corps. “I came here in 1975; the Marine Corps brought me here. When I walked out the gate for the last time, I traded my spitshined shoes and put on the dirtiest clothes I could find and became a commercial fisherman,” Dove said. “Things were great until about 1990.” That’s when the catch from the Neuse became riddled with sores; Dove and his son, Todd, who fished with him, had them too. “I wouldn’t eat the fish, so I decided couldn’t sell them either,” Dove said. Dove hung up his dirtiest clothes, went back to practicing law and found a new calling when he was hired as the Neuse Riverkeeper at the behest of Evans and other members of the Neuse River Foundation. At that point, NRF had been successful in its bid for a statewide ban on cleaning products containing phosphorous, which entered the waterways through sewage treatment plants, much to the detriment of aquatic life. When Dove came aboard, he put his law degree to use again, this time going after those polluting the river, directly. “We sued wastewater treatment plants and hog farms. Our docket had 20 cases on it, all the time. We were in court a good bit of the time, but most of our cases were settled out of court,” Dove said. Neuse River Foundation grew from 70 members to more than 2,000. The Neuse River had gotten a bad reputation, devastating both tourism and the housing market, and disparate interests banded together to do something about it. Hundreds of volunteers patrolled and sampled the waters at stations from the lower Neuse up to Raleigh, and local pilots volunteered their planes to get a bird’s-eye view of pollution sources. A designated force of creekJANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31
keepers took an active role in tracking salinity, turbidity and oxygen levels in tributaries. “It was a very active time in the ’90s. We got pretty good results with all the screaming and yelling we were doing about the health of the river,” Dove said. Results included injunctions against industrial hog farms and EPA payouts to clean up rivers, as well as the creation of pollution-reducing rules by the state that were put in place for the Neuse River Basin in 1997. New rules for the Tar-Pamlico followed in 2000. A MERGING OF MINDS Decades of advances in water quality were offset by steps backward, even as much-loved fundraisers to fund the work of the organizations drew large crowds of river-lovers — the PTRF Oyster Roast on the grounds of the Civic Center in Washington
32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
and NRF’s Taste of Coastal Carolina in New Bern. Then, in 2015, the voice of the river became louder when the Pamlico-Tar River Foundation and Neuse River Foundation merged to become a powerful advocate for protection of the watersheds covering nearly a quarter of the state of North Carolina. “Sound Rivers has become a respected environmental voice,” Boyer said. “It’s always had integrity, and it’s always had one goal, which is to preserve the health of the river.” Heather Deck, Sound Rivers’ executive director, said that’s due to the long-time dedication of members, board members, volunteers and staff — too many to count. “Over the past 40 years, we’ve been able to expand our efforts and influence to support many more communities up and down both rivers,” Deck said. “But the organization has remained true to its mission and effort to give the people a voice for the river and their communities. Everyone has a
Pamlico-Tar Riverkeeper Jill Howell maneuvers her kayak over one tree and under another. Howell joined Lower Neuse Riverkeeper Katy Langley Hunt in exploring the Trent River, part of the watershed Sound Rivers works to protect (above).
Morning mist rises along the shoreline of Goose Creek State Park. (Photo by Dr. Ernie Larkin) JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33
Sound Rivers’ Environmental Projects Coordinator Clay Barber dons hip-waders to unclog a pipe that drains stormwater from the Jaycee Park Wetland Project in Greenville, one of Sound Rivers’ many projects designed to capture and remove nutrients from run-off.
right to have an impactful voice in determining the protection and use of their communities’ natural resources — including our water resources — and no person should bear the disproportionate impact of pollution.” But 40 years after two communities set the stage for grassroots environmental advocacy, gathering around kitchen tables and in borrowed offices, the work is far from over. “People are just kind of shortsighted when it comes to the importance of a healthy environment, and it’s been so for a long time,” Larkin said. Deep budgets cuts to North Carolina’s Department of Environmental Quality over the years has meant watching over the waterways and doing much of the work necessary to keep rivers swimmable, fishable and drinkable has fallen to organizations such as Sound Rivers. 34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
“If it’s going to get fixed, it’s going to be fixed by the waterkeepers. There’s nobody else out there doing the work. The rivers are screaming because they’re out of balance with nutrients, and when nature goes out of balance, it comes back with things like fish kills,” Dove said, referring to a month-long fish kill on the Neuse this fall that brought public concern to a level not seen in years. “I’d like to see us get back to what we used to do. We need to get tough again. Somehow, we need to get the message out to the public forum. We don’t have to be all negative, but we certainly have to speak for the river in ways that are honest or strong. You can’t compromise the river to support pollution. You just can’t.” Sound Rivers will mark its 40th anniversary with a variety of events throughout 2021, including premiere of a documentary in the fall. Stay tuned to soundrivers.org for more information. ⋇
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35
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EVOLUTION OF MAIN STREET 245 years & strong WRITTEN BY STEVE BARNES | PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY JACK WILLARD & RAY MIDGETT
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ain Street, by definition, is the heartbeat of any town. Washington’s main artery is still beating strong 245 years after its founding, perhaps stronger than ever. From its humble beginnings as a muddy mule path, through a period in the late 1800’s when oyster shells crunched underfoot, Main Street evolved through a short stretch as a brick road, then grew into more modern asphalt as the Roaring’ 20’s began. It also survived an 1864 fire during the Civil War that destroyed most of Washington’s early buildings. Resilient residents rebuilt, only to watch another blaze ravage their work in 1900. Much of the area’s late Victorian Commercial architecture dates to the second rebuilding effort following the second fire. Fast forward 100 years and the heart is healthier than many younger thoroughfares after a nine month surgical procedure that updated the underground infrastructure to the tune of $3.4 million. You might think Medicaid paid for part of it given the patient’s age, but not in this case. No automobile traffic moved down the three blocks from Gladden to Market Street while workers replaced 50 and, in some instances, 100 year old stormwater drainage pipes with bigger, newer versions to handle increased capacity and also buried the power lines underground. While they were at it, the city fathers, led by late mayor Mac Hodges, decided to make the street more pedestrian friendly by covering the newly widened sidewalks with tan bricks and installing new trees, planters, old timey looking lamp posts, benches, waste containers and other landscaping. After a spring and summer of watching the street get ripped open to its core, Washingtonians celebrated the final repaving with a grand re-opening in late November. “I think Main Street looks as good now as it ever has,” 87-year old Big Bargain Furniture patriarch Billy Jefferson said. “I had a downtown paper route when I was in fifth grade and worked several places down here before I opened my store in 1961, so I’ve been looking at it for a while. I think 2021 and beyond will be remembered as the boom times for downtown.” Just about every business imaginable has been on or near Main Street through the years. The Turnage Theater marquee lit up for the first time in 1911 and hosted entertainers and vaudeville groups from around the world. Fish markets, banks, restaurants, dress shops, men’s shops, barbershops, general stores, department stores and shoe stores. Even a car dealership or two. JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39
Parades and other big events usually included Main Street as part of the route. (CONTRIBUTED BY JACK WILLARD)
T h e H a r b o r D i s t r i c t M a r ke t opened in 2019, giving shoppers the opportunity to buy from many vendors under one roof. (CONTRIBUTED BY RAY MIDGETT)
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The Belk-Tyler department store attracted shoppers from all over Beaufort County until it moved to Washington Square Mall in the mid 1970’s. (CONTRIBUTED BY JACK WILLARD)
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CONTRIBUTED BY ANTHONY COMELLA
“We had four shoe stores down here when I first started working on Main Street,” Russell Smith, who opened Russell’s men’s store in 1983 said. “I worked at Larry’s in 1970 or ’71 and Kinney’s, Cox and the Belk department store all sold shoes. I remember they were pouring a new sidewalk then, so I guess it’s time for another one.” Smith said downtown Washington had a captive audience because there was nowhere else to shop. “People from all over Beaufort County came down here on Saturday’s,” he said. “You could buy a suit at Hilton’s, Scott’s, Suskin and Berry, Milton’s or at Belk. There were several ladies’ shops as well. We were the only game in town.” Then Washington Square Mall opened in the mid-1970’s. “Everybody likes new and fresh and the mall was a new concept,” Smith said. “Buckman’s department store left first, then Belk, and a couple more big ones followed. We were all holding our breath to see what would happen next.” Hindsight is 20/20, so we know what followed. New businesses methodically filled the vacant spaces, except for the Belk building, which is still unoccupied after all these years. “I think the roughest time Main Street ever experienced until COVID-19 was when those big stores left to go to the
mall,” Jefferson said. “Some periods have been better than others, but things have stayed pretty healthy down here for the most part.” The pandemic forced the downtown merchants to close for at least six weeks during the summer, some for longer. However, no business closed permanently because of COVID-19. Merchants have come and gone up and down Main Street since the beginning and will continue to do so. However, Smith thinks the key to the area’s continued vibrancy comes down to location. “We are fortunate to have the county courthouse to the north and the waterfront to the south,” he explained. “People come to one to conduct business and the other to relax and have fun. They will always come downtown just to see what’s going on while they are here. We also have historic homes and churches to the east and west that gives our downtown a quaint, laid-back feel. We hear it all the time from out of town visitors. The part of Moss Landing that is almost done and the phase that will start soon gives more potential customers easy access to us. We are coming back strong now that Main Street is open and once we get past COVID, I expect us to blow wide open.” ⋇ JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43
A MAN’S BEST FRIEND WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN | PHOTOS BY BOBBY DAVIS
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wning a pet and forming a meaningful relationship with that animal can be very beneficial to your overall physical and mental health. “Pets are very social. Being home with them more is both beneficial for them, as well as us! They love the socialization and enrichment from being with their owners, and we can benefit immensely from the emotional support they provide us,” said a representative with Beaufort County Animal Control. While dogs are commonly referred to as ‘man’s best friend’, the bond between a person and any species of animal can create a healing relationship. For years, animals have been raised and trained to perform essential tasks for individuals with physical and mental disabilities. “In my observation, I feel like it’s more about the personality of the person and the bond that they form with the animal. I have plenty of clients in all age ranges that have benefitted from pets as companions,” said Eric Hedberg, a clinical social worker in the Washington area. Hedberg owns two cats of his own and, similar to many of his clients, enjoys the companionship they offer. Even for those who do not have a diagnosed disability, the bond between an owner and animal can greatly improve the quality of life for all parties involved. “One of the things that I’ve noticed a lot, and has probably come into view a lot this year, COVID-19 has kind of been pretty tough on a lot of people from a mental health perspective,” said Hedberg. “Increased isolation and more difficulty spending time with friends and family has had a pretty profound mental health effect on a lot of people,” said Hedberg. The global pandemic of COVID-19 has impacted many of our lives. It has changed our daily routines and relegated many of us to our homes for the time being. While this could be seen as a negative aspect of the virus, many have
In my observation, I feel like it’s more about the personality of the person and the bond that they form with the animal.
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ERIC HEDBERG
Ed spent his first day in his new home checking out the surroundings and getting used to his new family.
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 45
Ed and one of his new furry friends cuddle on the couch of their home.
found solace in adopting a new furry friend into the fold. “The relationship we have with pets can be really helpful in that regard. I think, in particular, a lot of my clients that I’ve seen that might live alone, it’s been a big struggle not being able to spend time with friends and family,” said Hedberg. “Even if it’s not a person, just having someone else in the home and having that companionship and love is helpful.”
Anecdotes from owners “My wife had some outpatient surgery. When we arrived home, I helped her get comfortable in our second floor bedroom. She was still a little out of it from the surgery. I went up to the 3rd floor kitchen/den area. Our lab Mac followed me up and our lab Molly settled in next to my wife’s bed. Mac was resting next to my chair while I was watching tv. About thirty minutes had elapsed when Mac got up, walked over to the stairs, stood there a minute, and went on down. A couple minutes later he came back and walked over to my chair. He had a piece of paper in his mouth and dropped in my lap. As he stood there, watching me, I unfolded the paper and read the note. It simply 46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
stated “help need pain med.” My wife later explained that she woke up and called for me to bring her something for pain. I didn’t hear her but Mac did. When he came into her room she scribbled the note on a piece of scrap paper and told him “take this to your dad”. Mac was very proud of himself as he relished in the praise, hugs, kisses, and extra treats. The years have passed by now since Molly and Mac have gone. But to think back on all the memories they left us, it warms the heart and brings a tear to know they gave us all the love they had.” — James Fitts “A stray dog showed up at my house one night and I knew the dog had to have an owner in the area. I called animal control and they came out and picked him up. Me being a big animal lover, I went to the shelter the next day to check on the dog and the dog’s owner had seen his picture online and was coming to get him. I was so glad. But, the dog next to him caught my eye. He was so thin, cuts on his feet and legs. His nails were so, so long. He wouldn’t even look at me. I told the lady I’d be back to get him in 72 hours (holding time). I had no idea what an awesome gift I was about to receive. “Ed” is about as good as they come.” — Bobby Davis ⋇
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WHAT'S TO EAT
THE PERFECT DISH
for a North Carolina winter
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FOOD PREP, STORY AND PHOTOS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
astern North Carolina winters can be a mixed bag of weather: sunny and 70s one week can turn into cold, windy days and frigid nights the next. No matter the weather, this time of year calls for hearty meals to keep the coming, or going, winter chill at bay. Soup, warm and filling, is at the top of the menu. In this issue of Washington the Magazine, we offer a few delicious options for a stick-to-your-ribs bowl of goodness: black bean and vegetable chili with a southwestern flair from the kitchen of the late artist Irene Forbes; Sara Hufham’s beef ghoulash, a timeless dish that will warm you from the inside out; and clam chowder, an easy-to-make creamy chowder from Darlene K. Noble.
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What goes with all of these scrumptious soups? Cornbread, of course — and not just any cornbread, but a moist, rich cornbread featuring whole-kernel corn and sour cream. This recipe, contributed by Sally Johnston for “Favorite Recipes,” is bound to, indeed, become a favorite. Another dish with a southwestern flair, Muffy Bowman’s zucchini salad, makes a perfect side for the black bean vegetable chili or on its own, for a lighter lunch with a little zip. These recipes, and many more, can be found in cookbooks sold by local nonprofits and churches, pieced together with the culinary wisdom of some of the best cooks Beaufort County has to offer — no matter what the season and weather may offer! ⋇
ZUCCHINI SALAD MUFFY BOWMAN “Without a Doubt, St. Thomas’ Best” St. Thomas Episcopal Church, Bath 3 medium-sized zucchini, sliced and cut in quarters; 1 (8-ounce) can Fiesta (Mexican) corn; 1 can Garbanzo beans; 3 tablespoons cider vinegar; 1 clove of garlic, minced; 1/4 teaspoon thyme; 1/4 cup olive oil; 1/2 cup sliced black olives; 3 green onions, chopped; 1 ripe avocado, cubed; chili powder to taste; 1/3 cup Queso Anejo or Romano cheese, grated. Mix together and chill. (*Chef ’s note: use at least 2 tablespoons of chili powder and add a little salt to taste. I didn’t have cider vinegar, so I used 4 tablespoons of red wine vinegar. There are several cheeses that can be substituted in this including asiago and Parmesan.)
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BLACK BEAN VEGETABLE CHILI IRENE FORBES “Plate and Palette” Arts of the Pamlico, Washington 1 large onion, chopped coarsely; 1 tablespoon olive oil; 1 (28-ounce) can whole tomatoes, undrained and chopped; 2/3 picante sauce (choose heat to your liking); 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin; 1 teaspoon salt; 1/2 teaspoon basil; 2 cans black beans, rinsed and drained; 1 green bell pepper, cut into 3/4-inch pieces; 1 red pepper, cut into 3/4inch pieces; 1 large yellow squash or zucchini, cut into 1/2-inch chunks (2 cups); 1/4 cup white wine, optional. Optional additions: hot cooked rice, sour cream and shredded cheese for garnish. Cook onions in olive oil until soft. Add cumin, salt and basil, sauté another minute or so. Add picante sauce and tomatoes with liquid. Cover and simmer five minutes. Stir in beans, peppers and squash/zucchini and cook about five more minutes. Add wine; add a bit of water to return to a simmer, covered. Cook until vegetables are tender. Ladle into bowls, top as desired and serve with additional picante sauce. Yield: about 8, 1 cup servings.
CORN-CORNBREAD SALLY JOHNSTON “Favorite Recipes” St. Clair’s Church of Christ, Bath 1 box of Flako or Jiffy Muffin Mix; 1 (8-ounce) container sour cream; 1 stick butter; 2 eggs; 1 small can whole kernel corn; 1 small can cream-style corn. Mix all ingredients. Bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes in well-greased 9-by-13-inch pan until golden brown.
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MOM COLE’S ZUCCHINI BREAD
MONKEY BREAD
BETTY VARNI “Traditional Treasures” Women Active for Christ, First Free Will Baptist Church, Washington 3 eggs, 1 teaspoon salt; 2 cups sugar; 2 cups zucchini, grated; 3 teaspoons vanilla; 1 cup chopped nuts; 3 cups flour; 1 cup vegetable oil; 1/2 teaspoon baking powder; 3 teaspoons cinnamon; 1 teaspoon baking soda. Beat eggs well. Add oil, sugar, zucchini and vanilla. Sift all dry ingredients and add to egg mixture. Blend well. Add nuts and stir. Pour into two greased and floured bread pans. Bake at 350 degrees for one hour. Cool the bread on racks before wrapping. If you have left over batter, you can make cupcakes—line each cupcake holder with a paper liner. You can freeze your bread: double wrap each loaf in aluminum foil, place in a freezer bag and freeze to enjoy for later. When you are ready to eat the bread, allow the bread to thaw in the bag to keep it moist. Bread is good up to one year later.
DEBORAH RUTLEDGE “Asbury’s Old Tyme, Good Time Recipes II” Asbury United Methodist Church, Washington 1 1/3 cups sugar; 1 stick butter, melted; 1 tablespoon cinnamon; 3 cans refrigerated flaky biscuits; nuts (optional). Mix cinnamon and sugar. Cut biscuits into quarters, and coat with cinnamon and sugar. Place in a greased Bundt pan. Add butter to the remaining cinnamon and sugar (add nuts, if using); pour over biscuits. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 minutes.
SCALLOPED OYSTERS JACKIE MULLEN “Cooking with Grace Volume II” Bath Christian Church, Bath 3 cups cracker crumbs; 1 pint cream; 1/4 butter; 1 pint oysters; 1/4 teaspoon salt; pepper to taste. Place layer of cracker crumbs in shallow 8-inch-by-11inch baking pan. Sprinkle with 1/4 cup cream. Dot with part of butter. Add oysters in one thick layer. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Top with remaining crumbs. Dot with remaining butter. Add the rest of the cream. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes. If using a glass pan, cook in a 325-degree oven.
BLUEBERRY SOUR CREAM COFFEE CAKE NATALIE MARSHALL “Second Heavenly Helpings” Swan Quarter Baptist Church, Swan Quarter 1 cup butter; 2 cups sugar; 2 eggs; 1 cup sour cream; 1 teaspoon vanilla; 2 cups cake flour; 1/4 teaspoon salt; 1 teaspoon baking powder; 1/2 cup blueberries. Filling: 1/2 cup brown sugar; 1 teaspoon cinnamon; 1/2 cup chopped nuts. Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs. Fold in sour cream and vanilla. Sift dry ingredients together; add to creamed mixture. Fold in blueberries. Pour one-third of the batter into a Bundt pan. Sprinkle with filling. Pour one-third batter over the top, then more filling and remaining batter. Swirl with spatula. Bake at 350 degrees for one hour. 54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
BEEF GHOULASH SOUP SARA HUFHAM “Our Celebration Cookbook” First Presbyterian Church, Washington 2 pounds boneless beef sirloin steak, cut into 1/2inch cubes; 1 large onion, chopped; 1 large green pepper, chopped; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 3 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed; 3 medium carrots, chopped; 4 cups beef broth; 1 cup water; 1 tablespoon sugar; 2 tablespoons paprika; 1 teaspoon salt (or more to taste); 1/2 teaspoon pepper; 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper; 2 bay leaves; 1 (28-ounce) can crushed tomatoes; 1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste; 2 tablespoon caraway seeds; sour cream to garnish. In a Dutch oven, over medium-high heat, cook and stir the beef, onion and green pepper in oil until the meat is browned on all sides; drain. Stir in the next 10 ingredients (potatoes to bay leaves) and bring to a boil. Reduce heat; cover and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes or until potatoes are tender. Stir in the tomatoes, tomato paste and caraway seeds. Cover and simmer 25 to 30 minutes longer, or until meat is tender. Discard bay leaves. Top servings with a dollop of sour cream. Yield: 16 servings.
CLAM CHOWDER DARLENE K. NOBLE “The Terra Ceia Cookbook No. 2” The Ladies Auxiliary of the Terra Ceia Christian School, Pantego 3 slices salt pork or bacon, cubed; 1 quart clams, finely chopped; 1 onion finely chopped; 3 medium potatoes, diced; salt to taste; 1 quart water. Fry pork until brown. Add remaining ingredients; cook slowly, one and a half to two hours. Chowder should be thick when finished.
DINING GUIDE
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WORD ON WINE
Sherry wines for the winter
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WRITTEN BY MARY MEHLICH | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH REED
decided to talk about sherry because it is a great Winter wine. Lots of folks drink red in the Winter months, but there are those folks that simply don’t care for red wine. This is where sherry comes in. It is fortified (15 to 18 % ABV) and sure to warm your bones on a cold winter day. Sherry is a fortified wine of Spanish origin from the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DOP in the province of Cadiz, in the region of Andalusia. There are only three authorized grape types that sherry can be made from: • Palomino • Pedro Ximenez • Moscatel These three varieties are traditionally used throughout the Jerez region. They belong to the Vitis vinifera species, which give the grapes the quality required to produce sherry. Palomino is the most traditional of all the varieties and has been used for centuries. Palomino Grapes are primarily used to make dry sherries. It is the undisputable leader within the Jerez region. Pedro Ximenez , also a traditional variety , has a greater sugar content with higher levels of acidity to produce sweet wines of great quality. Muscat or Moscatel is a variety used in the Jerez region. This variety originated in Africa but is used throughout the world to make wine. In the Jerez region Moscatel is produced for sweet wines of the highest quality. Diversity is undoubtably one of the principle characteristics of sherry. Many different wines offering us an endless array of colors, aromas, textures and
tastes when combined create the world of sherry wines. As a consequence of the longstanding wine growing tradition, oenology in Jerez is one of the most highly developed in the world. Let’s take a closer look at the different types and what food pairs best with them. Pale Cream Sherry is light and fresh with a delicate sweetness that pairs wonderfully with foie gras, pate and fresh fruit such as pear or melon. Serve this wine chilled. Medium Cream Sherry has an aroma of pastries such as baked apple tarts. It begins with a slightly dry mouth, gradually becoming sweeter to finish with a smooth finish. Serve this wine chilled. This sherry is wonderful as an aperitif but also works well with pate, quiche and spicy/hot curry dishes. Cream Sherry ranges in color from medium brown to dark mahogany and is dense in appearance. Aromas of roasted nuts with a hint of sweetness. It is an elegant wine, velvety and fuller bodied with a well-balanced sweetness and a long, lingering finish. Serve chilled. It is great as an aperitif or served on ice with an orange slice. Fino has aromas of almonds, herbs and yeast. The palate is delicate, dry and light finishing with an enjoyable aftertaste of almonds. Serve chilled. It is an ideal aperitif but also pairs well with many types of tapas as well as shellfish and salty fish. Such as anchovies. Amontillado has a delicate and subtle nose with aromas of hazelnut, hint of herbs and tobacco. It is smooth and light with a well-balanced acidity. The wine is dry and has lingering hints of wood and
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nuts. Serve at room temperature. Pair with fish, mushroom dishes, asparagus, artichokes or semi-cured cheeses. Oloroso ranges in color from amber to mahogany, the darker having ben aged longer. Warm, rounded aromas are both complex and intense. The bouquet is vegetal, nutty, toasty with hints of balsamic, wood and tobacco. There are spicy overtones reminiscent of truffles and leather. Full bodied and structured and complex. Very smooth on the palate with a dry finish. Serve slightly chilled and pair with red meat/game, stews, casseroles or well cured cheeses. Palo Cortado is a wine of great complexity. It has aromas of lemon and bitter orange with a round ample palate. It is smooth with a long complex dry finish. Pair with charcuterie. Manzanilla is pale, light tangy and a very dry Sherry made only in Sanlucar de Barrameda. Manzanilla is the driest of all Sherries. Pair with sushi sashimi, prawns, sardines, mussels or smoked salmon. Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel are extremely sweet, dark brown, dessert Sherries. Often lower in alcohol, these Sherries are made from raisined grapes of those two varietals. Aged Pedro Ximenez Sherries are a real delicacy, thick and dark in color, ideal to be had with vanilla Bean ice cream. “On Sherry: The destiny of a thousand generations is concentrated in each drop. If the cares of the world overwhelm you, only taste it, pilgrim, and you will swear that heaven is on earth.” —Pedro Antonio de Alarcon— Mary Mehlich is the owner of Wine & Words & Gourmet in downtown Washington. ⋇
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57
CAST A LINE
WINTER IS NO TIME to hang up your fishing rods
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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS
inter fishing on the Pamlico means catching hard pulling striped bass or “rockfish” below towering cypress and gum trees up in the freshwater portions of our rivers. It means exploring our backwaters and being rewarded with some world class fishing at the end of a cold day. Winter is not a hiatus from fishing; it’s just another season for me. I’d much rather be out on the water on a cool, clear, dry winter day than any hot, humid, buggy summer day. Between the Tar-Pamlico, the Neuse, and Roanoke Rivers, we have a spectacular winter striper fishery for those willing to brave the weather. Striped Bass are very current oriented fish. They use the current in the river to their advantage and will travel to areas where there is ample current flow and structure, creating the perfect ambush scenario for feeding on passing baitfish. Most fish behave this same way, but stripers are particular fond of and well adapted to heavy current flows in our coastal rivers and creeks. Find current and baitfish, and you will likely find a big school of stripers in one spot. In the winter, stripers are usually located in deeper water near the bottom. They are often associated with ledges in the creek or river channel or around deeper structure where they can ambush their prey. Because we are typically fishing in deeper water and in places where we are likely to get hung up on structure, we primarily fish 3/8 to ½ ounce jig heads rigged with soft plastic baits such as 3-5 inch paddle tails or 4-6 inch jerk baits. Using braided fishing line is important because it is more sensitive
Richard Andrews holds up a striped bass he reeled in from the Pamlic River.
than monofilament, enabling you to feel the bottom. Maintaining contact with the bottom is important. Once you allow the bait to hit the bottom, lift it up off the bottom a couple of feet until it hits the bottom again. Just repeat this process until you feel a fish pick the bait up as it’s falling back toward the bottom. When you detect the bite, set the hook and enjoy the rest! Other options for winter fishing in our area include speckled trout; panfish such as crappie, white perch, and yellow (racoon) perch, and shad starting in February. Of course, anglers could catch the occasional red drum or
58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
flounder overwintering in our area, but the more consistent fisheries include the aforementioned species. Winter speckled trout fishing if the most popular option and once word gets out about a hot bite, 50-100 boats or more might be concentrated in just one creek. If you prefer a more secluded experience while fishing, consider some of the other species. Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com.⋇
TRAVEL & LEISURE
60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
DESTINATION: SYLVAN HEIGHTS BIRD PARK LOCATION: SCOTLAND NECK, N.C. DISTANCE: 58 MILES TIME: 1 HOUR 6 MINUTES ADDRESS: 500 SYLVAN HEIGHTS PARKWAY
EXPERIENCE THE BEAUTY OF NATURE AT
Sylvan Heights Bird Park WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN | PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY SYLVAN HEIGHT BIRD PARK
L
ocated just over an hour from Downtown Washington in the town of Scotland Neck, the Sylvan Heights Bird Park is a sanctuary to over 2,000 different species of waterfowl, parrots, toucans, flamingos, and other exotic birds. Opened in 2006, Sylvan Heights Bird Park is the result of a life dedicated to the preservation of endangered Waterfowl. Founders Mike and Ali Lubbock maintain the park, in addition to the Avian Breeding Center where endangered species from across the globe are bred to continue genetic diversity. The
park hosts over 55,000 guests annually and is open year round. The birds are out on exhibit whenever permitted and their looks change with the season. “Late fall and winter through mid-spring is the best time to see them in fresh, colorful breeding plumage, ‘’ said Katie Lubbock, communications director. “For those coming to see or photograph waterfowl specifically, we usually recommend visiting during the cooler months.” With approximately one mile of trails and aviaries, staff recommend that visitors plan to spend two or more hours
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61
at the park during your visit. With exhibits like The Landing Zone, where you can hand feed various species of exotic birds, and Wings of the Tropics, one of the many walkthrough aviaries, some guests have been known to stay from open to close. Sylvan Heights Bird Park is enforcing facial coverings and social distancing in accordance with North Carolina’s state guidelines against COVID-19. Most of the outdoor exhibits are open to the public, while some indoor exhibits like The Visitor’s Center are closed or opened with limited capacities. “We do have an hourly limit on admissions, but so far we have not had to turn visitors away because we’ve reached that capacity. We are fortunate to have plenty of outdoor space for easy social distancing,” said Lubbock. “For our enclosed exhibits, such as The Landing Zone, the maximum capacity in the exhibit at any one time is 10 people, and that limit is enforced by park staff. Visitors should plan on a short wait outside the exhibit to allow other families to enjoy it safely.” The park is open every week from Tuesday through Sunday with some holiday exceptions. The park’s hours fluctuate based on the season. Tickets range from $9 to $12, with children under the age of two offered free admission. For more information, please check their website www.shwpark.com or call 252.826.3186. ⋇
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ADVERTISER INDEX Beaufort County Schools
5
Gail Kenefick - Coastal Rivers Realty
48
Beaufort County Public Health
49
Jones & McKinney, P.A.
17
Bertie Ambulance Service
26
Kari Hall, Century 21
17
Bertie Peanuts
36
King Chicken
11
Big Bargain Furniture
9, 17
Mauri E. Alligood - State Farm Insurance
49
Bloom Women’s Apparel
17
Nan McClendon - The Rich Co.
26
Carolina Wind Yacht Brokerage
17
Nationwide, Robert D. Alton
19
Carryout by Chrislyn
55
Percision Eye Care
36
Century 21 Real Estate
35
Ryan Whitford - AssureVest Insurance Group
25
Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty
3
Slade Landscaping
26
Cottage Junkies
17
Sloan Insurance
17
Country Boys Auction & Realty
35
Scott & Stringfellow BB&T
19
Daughtridge Patio
49
Stewart’s Jewelry Store
7
Dowry Creek Marina
59
Tammy Adell Berry, Century 21
6
Eastern Dermatology
36
The Rich Company
18
Eastern Radiology
27
Tideland EMC
67
El Charrito
55
United Country Respess Real Estate
48
Executive Personnel Group
35
Vidant Health Systems
68
Feyer Ford
2
Washington Funeral Home
19
First Bank Wealth Management
48
Washington Montessori Public Charter School
26
64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
WRITTEN BY BRIAN FULLER | ILLUSTRATION BY CARLEIGH FLYNN
CALI-BAGGER The joys of my first redneck fail
Only in the South can you lose your trailer on a rural road and immediately find a fellow who spent 20 years in the liquor-distribution business and who had learned to wield a handcart the way a surgeon uses a scalpel.
I
closed the back of the U-Haul trailer, dusted off my clothes and stared out at the Pamlico. I was now moved in and full-time and ready for the adventures ahead – fishing, exploring, meeting new people, experiencing my first redneck fail. We all know about these. You can find them on YouTube or social media. They usually involve a combination of knuckleheads and backyard barbecues, knuckleheads kissing poisonous snakes, or knuckleheads and fireworks. I’d had or seen my share in California. My brother got his Toyota stuck in a creek crossing near our cabin one New Year’s eve day. Archimedes said “Give me a lever and a place to stand and I’ll move the world,” but he never had to do it waist deep in a winter stream. Neighbors who trickled out of the woods to help with their four-wheel drives were delightfully amused. Farther up that same creek, I once spring-cleaned our 500-gallon water tank, which sits on a bank above an ample, yearround creek. Tipping it over to empty the last of the winter silt, I thought “if this shifts just a little bit, I’m going to lose it.” Just then, it shifted just a bit. I watched it rumble, roll and crash down through the alders into the creek bed below. I hiked back to seek my brother’s assistance, and he laughed all the way back with me. But the South is where the real legends seem to be found – at least on YouTube – and so I wondered: When will my turn come? It arrived more quickly than I could have imagined. I hitched the trailer back up, snapped the chains into place, and then ran through the high-tech digital trailering checklist in my six-month-old Chevy
Silverado. (I swear, the only thing that truck can’t do is fly). Satisfied, I drove off to return the trailer. What an afternoon: 70 degrees and a sky for artists, the scent of warm fall in the air. I drove with the windows down and happiness in my heart. Roaring along in the country I came upon a railroad crossing, one of those with the bump in the grade. Suddenly, there came a tremendous bang followed by what sounded like a thousand screeching hyenas. An older couple standing in their drive next to the road whooped and hollered and pointed frantically behind me. “Trailer!” the woman screamed. I pulled over and took a look. The trailer coupler and tongue lay snug on the ground still chained to the back of the truck. How the heck did that happen? It hit me: The one thing I’d forgotten – and that the digital checklist didn’t include – was to screw down the mechanism on the coupler to secure it to the ball. Even empty, the trailer and the big crate it carried were too heavy to lift for me. It would take at least two guys to lift it just enough to flip the trailer’s built-in jack into place. How long would it take roadside assistance to show up? My whole schedule was suddenly thrown to chaos. I looked across the road. The older couple had returned to puttering around their truck. I walked over and the woman sized me up. One eye wandered, which gave me the uneasy feeling that I’d stumbled into something that would end up on TV one day well after authorities ended their search for me. “Your trailer came off,” she said. “Yes, ma’am. I’m wondering whether
I can get a hand popping it back on from this strapping fellow right here.” The words hadn’t faded, and the man started off toward the road, wheeling a handcart in front of him that seemed to appear from out of nowhere. What’s going on? Was he returning the cart to a neighbor? Was I supposed to follow him? Did he even hear me? A moment later we were next to the trailer. “Put your shoulder there and push,” he said. In a flash, he wedged the handcart’s foot under the trailer tongue. He tipped and I shouldered and we eased the trailer tongue back toward the tow ball. In a flash, he repositioned the hard cart and popped up the trailer to a point where I could flip down the trailer jack. Problem solved in just minutes. Only in the South can you lose your trailer on a rural road and immediately find a fellow who spent 20 years in the liquor-distribution business and who had learned to wield a handcart the way a surgeon uses a scalpel. “I also trailered motorcycles all over the South for years. I’ve seen my share of these,” the Good Samaritan winked. He refused money of course and I went on my way, counting my blessings and hoping to pay it forward someday. An hour later, after dropping off the trailer, I found myself at Lowe’s. Two guys approached me in the parking lot. “Sorry to bother you, sir, but our truck won’t start,” they said. My heart jumped and I almost laughed out loud. I fished out my jumper cables, hooked them up, and their dead engine sputtered to full-throated life. I refused their money of course, and they drove off just as happy as I did. Ah the universe. ⋇
JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 65
WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON
COMMUNITY MAKES A SMALL TOWN HOME
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WRITTEN BY HENRY CAPOGNA | PHOTO BY STEVE BARNES
itting comfortably on our screened porch overlooking the fifth hole at the Cypress Landing Golf Course, I remain ever so grateful that my wife, Cathy, and I elected to relocate to this area 39 months ago. Staring beyond my porch on this splendid mid-winter day, I see and actually feel the radiant sun setting beyond the majestic loblolly pines that reach up towards the crystal clear sign of life not to mention the cherry blossoms which are poised to explode. As a transplanted Michigander, I still find it hard to conceive that a January day is not spewing a wintry mix of snow and slush fueled by a bone-chilling blast of north wind that stings the nostrils and prompts a hastened retreat indoors for the several dull gray months ahead. No Toto, this isn’t Michigan, and neither is it north-central Kansas where I spent youthful summers on my mother’s childhood wheat farm. There, I developed a profound appreciation for small town life where people actually made eye
contact, waved to strangers and engaged in heartfelt small talk. Six decades later, I find myself living in a very similar rural community where belonging to Rotary, attending church regularly and working on behalf of a number of non-profit organizations, including Eagle’s Wings Food Pantry and Toys for Tots, can make a noticeable community impact. It seems like only yesterday, actually seven years ago, my wife and I discovered what many affectionately refer to as Little Washington. Strolling down East Main Street in late November, I stepped inside Big Bargain Furniture where I encountered store owner Billy Jefferson and his wife. I asked Billy who was one of the most famous Washingtonians other than Cecil B. De Mille. Billy glanced towards his wife and said, “It might be actor Murray Hamilton. You know he and his wife are buried just up the hill.” Ironically, the night before my son and I had watched the movie “The Graduate” featuring the same Murray Hamilton! Perhaps, this was a sign that we were
66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JANUARY/FEBRUARY 2021
meant to move here. Three years later upon retirement we did so to be near our grandsons. Today, we sincerely appreciate the many friends we’ve made here. Finally, the U.S. Census Bureau reports there are 311 cities or towns having Washington in their name. Yet, there is only one “original” Washington. My Washington is enhanced by a restored Turnage Theater, a fabulous Brown Library, a captivating Harbor District, an alluring Festival Park and the quaint charm of the recently remodeled Main Street that will certainly attract others like us. Hopefully, they’ll have the good fortune of meeting someone like “Bargain Billy” Jefferson who’ll welcome them a with a twinkle of an eye and congenial smile. As Mother Teresa said, “Peace and love begins with a smile.” Cathy and I are ever so grateful to call this place home. Now, I’m going to take a mid-winter stroll down the road so I can check on the cherry blossoms. Hope springs eternal — even in January when you live right here! Blessed, we are. ⋇
It’s been another long shift. My heart breaks over another loss from COVID.
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