WORD ON WINE
Sherry wines for the winter
I
WRITTEN BY MARY MEHLICH | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH REED
decided to talk about sherry because it is a great Winter wine. Lots of folks drink red in the Winter months, but there are those folks that simply don’t care for red wine. This is where sherry comes in. It is fortified (15 to 18 % ABV) and sure to warm your bones on a cold winter day. Sherry is a fortified wine of Spanish origin from the Jerez-Xérès-Sherry DOP in the province of Cadiz, in the region of Andalusia. There are only three authorized grape types that sherry can be made from: • Palomino • Pedro Ximenez • Moscatel These three varieties are traditionally used throughout the Jerez region. They belong to the Vitis vinifera species, which give the grapes the quality required to produce sherry. Palomino is the most traditional of all the varieties and has been used for centuries. Palomino Grapes are primarily used to make dry sherries. It is the undisputable leader within the Jerez region. Pedro Ximenez , also a traditional variety , has a greater sugar content with higher levels of acidity to produce sweet wines of great quality. Muscat or Moscatel is a variety used in the Jerez region. This variety originated in Africa but is used throughout the world to make wine. In the Jerez region Moscatel is produced for sweet wines of the highest quality. Diversity is undoubtably one of the principle characteristics of sherry. Many different wines offering us an endless array of colors, aromas, textures and
tastes when combined create the world of sherry wines. As a consequence of the longstanding wine growing tradition, oenology in Jerez is one of the most highly developed in the world. Let’s take a closer look at the different types and what food pairs best with them. Pale Cream Sherry is light and fresh with a delicate sweetness that pairs wonderfully with foie gras, pate and fresh fruit such as pear or melon. Serve this wine chilled. Medium Cream Sherry has an aroma of pastries such as baked apple tarts. It begins with a slightly dry mouth, gradually becoming sweeter to finish with a smooth finish. Serve this wine chilled. This sherry is wonderful as an aperitif but also works well with pate, quiche and spicy/hot curry dishes. Cream Sherry ranges in color from medium brown to dark mahogany and is dense in appearance. Aromas of roasted nuts with a hint of sweetness. It is an elegant wine, velvety and fuller bodied with a well-balanced sweetness and a long, lingering finish. Serve chilled. It is great as an aperitif or served on ice with an orange slice. Fino has aromas of almonds, herbs and yeast. The palate is delicate, dry and light finishing with an enjoyable aftertaste of almonds. Serve chilled. It is an ideal aperitif but also pairs well with many types of tapas as well as shellfish and salty fish. Such as anchovies. Amontillado has a delicate and subtle nose with aromas of hazelnut, hint of herbs and tobacco. It is smooth and light with a well-balanced acidity. The wine is dry and has lingering hints of wood and
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nuts. Serve at room temperature. Pair with fish, mushroom dishes, asparagus, artichokes or semi-cured cheeses. Oloroso ranges in color from amber to mahogany, the darker having ben aged longer. Warm, rounded aromas are both complex and intense. The bouquet is vegetal, nutty, toasty with hints of balsamic, wood and tobacco. There are spicy overtones reminiscent of truffles and leather. Full bodied and structured and complex. Very smooth on the palate with a dry finish. Serve slightly chilled and pair with red meat/game, stews, casseroles or well cured cheeses. Palo Cortado is a wine of great complexity. It has aromas of lemon and bitter orange with a round ample palate. It is smooth with a long complex dry finish. Pair with charcuterie. Manzanilla is pale, light tangy and a very dry Sherry made only in Sanlucar de Barrameda. Manzanilla is the driest of all Sherries. Pair with sushi sashimi, prawns, sardines, mussels or smoked salmon. Pedro Ximenez and Moscatel are extremely sweet, dark brown, dessert Sherries. Often lower in alcohol, these Sherries are made from raisined grapes of those two varietals. Aged Pedro Ximenez Sherries are a real delicacy, thick and dark in color, ideal to be had with vanilla Bean ice cream. “On Sherry: The destiny of a thousand generations is concentrated in each drop. If the cares of the world overwhelm you, only taste it, pilgrim, and you will swear that heaven is on earth.” —Pedro Antonio de Alarcon— Mary Mehlich is the owner of Wine & Words & Gourmet in downtown Washington. ⋇
