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Sizzling summer snacks
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IN THIS ISSUE
FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS DAY TRIPPER
IN EVERY ISSUE
18
6 8 14 36 48 50 54 56 64 66
Take a trip: Exploring what eastern North Carolina has to offer
18 CLUB LIFE 26
Fish and friendship: Club promotes bond between members, generations
Publisher’s Note The Scene What's in Store What's to Eat Cast a Line Dining Guide Word on Wine Calendar Why I Love Washington Advertiser Index
26 LIVING HISTORY 30
First Port: Bath celebrates 300 years of seaport history
30 RIVER LIVING 40
Going coastal: Historic home gets new life on the river
40
58 4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
RIVER FUN
ON THE COVER
58
Sydney Smithwick, 12, and Braden Smithwick, 9, take to the sky while tubing one late afternoon on the Pamlico River. Their father, Austin Smithwick, navigates the boat, hitting waves to send his children airborne. See 5 wild watersports on the Pamlico, page 60.
This river is wild: 5 fun watersports on the Pamlico
[Photograph by ASHLEY VANSANT]
Gerri McKinley, Broker/Owner ®
REALTOR - GRI, CRS, ABR-trained
Multi-Million Dollar Producer mobile: (252)
office: (252)
945-1582 975-8010
gerri.mckinley@coastalrivers.com
coastalrivers.com
Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 5
NOTE FROM ASHLEY
Adventures on the Pamlico
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ummers on the Pamlico are filled with adventure. Fun, it seems, can be found at every turn. There are always new places to explore, history to rediscover, food, beverage and friends to appreciate. Hot summer days provide the perfect opportunity to enjoy Washington’s prevailing attraction — the water. When temperatures sizzle, thrill seekers know where to find their cool. There’s a watersport for just about everyone on the Pamlico River, from white-knuckle wakeboarding and extreme tubing, to the calm of light kayaking and even the meditative paddleboard yoga. Take the plunge with five wild watersports on page 58. One day is all it takes to explore the secrets of the deep or travel back through hundreds of years of history. Four eastern North Carolina day trips pack a powerful punch for just a small investment of time and money. New Bern’s Tryon Palace
offers an interactive historical experience on the grounds of North Carolina’s first permanent capital. With three nearby locations, North Carolina aquariums put all kinds of marine life well within reach and view. One of the world’s most unique beaches is just a ferry ride away at Ocracoke Island. Sylvan Heights, the largest bird park in North America, is less than 50 miles away as the bird flies, or a little more than an hour’s drive, if you take the more traditional approach. Explore them all on page 18. Nestled in a quiet spot under the trees along a turn of Tranter’s Creek, a group of volunteer firemen some 60 years ago started what would become a Beaufort County tradition. It was passed down directly from father to son through three and four generations. Connect the dots between years of food, fellowship and herring on page 26. A breathtaking West Main Street home has found new life on the river. With a nod
to the past and future, the Ninan family took a house in the heart of Washington’s historic district and made it their own. Join them in a warm, comfortable, coastal setting on page 40. When it was first established as a gateway to commerce from the old world to the new, ships found their way to the Port of Bath driven by the fur trade. Countless ships and 300 years after England’s Lords Proprietors issued a decree designating Bath an official seaport, the governor of the Old North State was on hand to celebrate. Travel back in time at our first port on page 30. I hope your summer is packed with as much fun, excitement and relaxation as the pages of this issue of Washington the Magazine.
Ashley Vansant, Publisher
We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine. 6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
WASHINGTON T
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Publisher Ashley Vansant
Editorial Caroline Hudson Michael Prunka Jonathan Rowe Vail Stewart Rumley Contributors Richard Andrews Virginia Finnerty Meredith Loughlin James Gaynor Will Preslar Advertising Director Carol Crittendon Marketing & Sales German Llodrat Cecilia Prokos Spencer Stanley Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Jason Scott Additional Layout & Design Mackenzie Tewksbury Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2015, Washington Newsmedia, LLC JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 7
THE SCENE OUT AND ABOUT
WTDA Business After Hours The business community and guests joined the Washington Tourism Development Authority for its WTDA Business After Hours, an event that showcased Washington’s tourism statistics and some of its business assets and recognized the Washington-Beaufort County Chamber of Commerce for its extensive work in promoting tourism in the area.
Gayle Watson and Jeanne Niederhauser
Julie Hicks, Shannon White and Harold Robinson
Beth Baker and Paige Thorne
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David Carraway and Virginia Finnerty
Jennifer Watkins and Russ Chesson
Tom Payne and Mayor Mac Hodges
Lynn Wingate, Dana Brooks and William Pitt
Ed Sommerfield and Beth Byrd
Jerry Evans and Diana Lambeth
Jane and Mandie Boahn
John Fowle and Mayor Mac Hodges
Catherine Glover, Jackie Woolard and Robin McKeithan
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 9
THE SCENE Kentucky Derby Gala Members of the community came together for the annual Kentucky Derby Gala celebration. The event was held at Fox Hollow Farms, hosted by Rod and Gina Cantrell, and attendees enjoyed watching the Derby while dinner was served.
Marty Poffenberger, Dana Eddings, Inken Van Cura, Boorus Yim and Amy Martin
Donald and Alice Sadler
Jayne Meisell, Garleen Woolard, Carol Keech, Rebecca Clarke, Lauren James and Virginia Finnerty
Gayle Watson and Paul Hager
Clara Kress, Morgan Conrad and Alana Jefferson
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Rod and Gina Cantrell
Marty and Laurel Paramore
Katrina and Ty Little
Shelly Tubaugh and Brian McCormick
The Herring Club The Herring Club held one of its gatherings at its property on Tranter’s Creek. The gathering was ladies’ night and members of the club brought their wives and special guests for its traditional fish fry, which included sides, hush puppies and fellowship with friends and family.
Clarissa Phillips and Penny Sermons
Jane McCotter, Brownie Futrell, Dick Barber and Stuart O’Neal
Jeanne and Jay Martin
Jane Barber
Barbara Grimes, Cathy Whichard and Jane McCotter
Mike Lobos
Mike and Lewis Sloan
Chris Deans and Jana Cordon
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11
THE SCENE High Tea at Pamlico House Bed and Breakfast Members of the community met for High Tea at Pamlico House Bed and Breakfast on April 21. The event was held to celebrate the 90th birthday of Queen Elizabeth II, who was born April 21, 1926. Those in attendance enjoyed tea, baked goods and fruit, thanks to host and owner of the establishment, Virginia Finnerty, with help from Jeffery Phipps.
Gayle Watson and Cathy Waters
Virginia Finnerty and Judi Hickson
Sue Shaffer, Susan Nash and Shirley Mann
M.J. Peters, J.J. Jarvah and Pat Benson
Alberta Paris, Shelly Rebholz and Carolyn McCreesh
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Mary Thomson and Dorothy Collins
Lisa Hodges, Alice McClure and Bettie Bonner Bradshaw
Virginia Finnerty and Jeff Phipps
Crime Stoppers Tournament
Jesse Dickinson and Chris Galloway (Ron Black in background)
Galen Neiderhauser, Dick Barber and Kane Ross
Buckley Brockmann, Daniel Bergevin, Brooks Patti and Michael Bilbro
Jamie Asby and Kathy Daniels
Jennifer Evans, Vicki Waters, Susan Nichols and Penny Nickels
Jason Hill, Brad Shackelford and Mary Parker Lyle
Patty Lewis and Valerie Baxter
Christy Barndt and Heather Jacobs Deck
Austin Anderson and Bryan Carpenter
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13
WHAT’S IN STORE
A piece of
Washington
WRITTEN BY CAROLINE HUDSON PhOTOGRAPhY BY WILL PRESLAR
CRABBING SEASON Embrace the time-honored tradition of crabbing on the Pamlico with Kay Woolard’s limited-availability series, “Crab Feast.” Woolard’s creation comes in all shapes and sizes, and the eye-catching reds and iridescent blue-greens are perfect for any home. The collection is available at Art on Market in downtown Washington. Chiclee painting (24 by 18 inches) $200, print $25, bookmark $3.95, notecard (not pictured) $3.95.
SUMMER LIVIN’ With the warm weather of summer comes its own version of scents and vegetation. Bring the outdoors into the comfort of your home with a blueberryscented soy candle by Sydney hale Co., or these simple and fun, Lazy Muze knit decorations. All are available at Lone Leaf Gallery at the corner of Market and Main streets in downtown Washington. Soy candle $30, knit cactus $20, knit flowers $25. 14 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
LAND OF THE FREE Celebrate the Fourth of July with the perfect balance of red, white and blue and nautical style. Sold separately, this True bracelet and Occasionally Made necklace will add a pop of color to your wardrobe on Independence Day and any other day of the year. They are available at Q-Tyme Outlet Store on U.S. highway 264 in Washington. Bracelet $6, necklace $8.
FLIP-FLOP FUN The summer months bring temperatures rising well into the 90s. Keep your feet cool and comfortable with Southern Tide flipjacks, available for men and women. The bright coral and deep navy colors add a fun flair to this take on summer flip-flops. They are available at Russell’s Men’s Shop on West Main Street in downtown Washington. Men’s flipjacks $69.50, women’s flipjacks $46.
SOUTHERN GENTLEMAN Get the man in your life something as stylish as it is useful. Southern Tide hats and visors are perfect for a summer day on the Pamlico River, and show off a man’s patriotism, too. These and more are available at Russell’s Men’s Shop on West Main Street in Washington. hat and visor, $25 each.
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 15
EYE-CATCHING COLORS A southern belle needs a fresh splash of color in her wardrobe once summer is in full force. Give her just that with this Barbara Gerwit dress, bathed in designs of cool blue and sea-foam green. The dress and more colorful options are available at Bloom Women’s Apparel on West Main Street in downtown Washington. Dress $148.
UNDER THE SEA host the perfect summer party, while also bringing the essence of the water indoors, with these marine-themed options. Guests are sure to love the soft whites of the Vietri platter as well as the ocean blue of the Vagabond house dish. This and more is available at Stewart’s Jewelry Store on Market Street in Washington. Vietri $151, Vagabond house $124.
Diane Edwards,
Broker ® REALTOR - SRES, CSSS, GREEN, ABR-trained
Multi-Million Dollar Producer mobile: (252)
office: (252)
945-0981 975-8010
diane.edwards@coastalrivers.com
Sail Through Your Real Estate Transaction With a Caring Professional coastalrivers.com | northcarolinacoastalwaterfront.com Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.
16 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17
TAKE A TRIP Exploring what eastern North Carolina has to offer STORY By CAROLINE HUDSON
S
ummertime on the Pamlico means the arrival of prime boating weather, a longawaited break from school and more time for family vacations. Although there are several attractions to keep one entertained right here at home, Washingtonians look forward to a chance to get out of town for a bit. Lucky for those short-term vacationers, eastern North Carolina offers plenty of options — whether it’s a family looking for a healthy balance of fun and education, a couple seeking some one-on-one time or a curious traveler pursuing a dose of American history. There are unusual species and opportunities for hands-on learning at one of the N.C. Aquarium locations near the coast or at Scotland Neck’s Sylvan Heights Bird Park. A chance to step into the past is also available as part of Historic New Bern and Tryon Palace. Or, have a taste of history and nature with a visit to Ocracoke Island. There’s something for everyone. With a little bit of research and inspiration of what one enjoys, it’s a relatively simple task to nail down a perfect spot. Go ahead; take a day of vacation, and when it’s all said and done, home is just across the county line.
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Historic New Bern and Tryon Palace are beautifully intertwined with an emphasis on North Carolina history and 18th- and 19th-century-era attractions. COLE DITTMER PHOTO
DAY TRIPS
HISTORIC NEW BERN/TRYON PALACE
H
A snapshot of America’s past
istoric New Bern is a daytrip destination in its own right, with its quaint downtown, a buzzing arts scene and a rich Civil War history. One of its most well known gems, however, is Tryon Palace, the first permanent capital of North Carolina and home to Royal Governor William Tryon in the 1770s. Destroyed by fire in 1798, crews rebuilt the structure in its old essence for the public to see in the 1950s. It isn’t the usual cookie-cutter attraction; visitors can experience it in their own way, according to Cole Dittmer, marketing assistant. Visitors can take tours through the palace grounds, exploring artifacts, viewing live-action,
18th-century-era blacksmith and kitchen operations and walking through 16 acres of gardens, according to Dittmer. There is also the Georgian-style Stanley house and the circa1830s Dixon home. Dittmer said the attraction opened a history center across the street in 2010, offering a more interactive option, especially for children. “They don’t have to just look at things. They can actually touch them,” he said. The Tryon Palace attraction embraces the history of its home in New Bern, and presenting the appeal to the area to visitors is a joint effort. “It’s kind of a shared history really,” Dittmer said. “I guess it’s kind of just interwoven through everything.”
ADMISSION FEES
One-day pass: Adults, $20; youth (grades 1-12), $10 Galleries pass: Adults, $12; youth (grades 1-12), $6 Gardens pass: Adults, $6; youth (grades 1-12), $3 Prices for group tours and special events vary.
HOURS 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Mondays through Saturdays Noon to 5 p.m., Sundays The gardens remain open until 6 p.m. every day from March to November.
INFORMATION: www.tryonpalace.org 800-767-1560 www.visitnewbern.com
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 19
NORTH CAROLINA AQUARIUM
Exploring marine life with ‘oohs’ and ‘ahs’
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here’s nothing quite like the memory of one’s first trip to the North Carolina Aquarium. From viewing the otters upon entry, to experiencing the stingray touch tank and perusing the Queen Anne’s Revenge exhibit, the trip is not one to be missed. The Aquarium has three locations in the eastern part of the state: Pine Knoll Shores, Fort Fisher and Roanoke Island. Although all are marine-based, each one is a little bit different — visiting one does not cover it all, according to Claire Aubel, public relations coordinator at the Pine Knoll Shores location. The N.C. Aquarium also tries to
switch things up to keep visitors interested. Roanoke Island reopened this summer after major renovations, and the Fort Fisher location is known for its dinosaur display, Aubel said. Among other attractions are: “Treemendous,” a marsh boardwalk; shark tanks; jellyfish and sea turtles. Aubel said the Pine Knoll location is debuting a Loggerhead Odyssey exhibit this summer, complete with a digital puppet named Coretta that responds to facial movements. “If they want to have up-close experiences with North Carolina animals and get to see animals that they otherwise wouldn’t get to see, then this is a great place to come,” she said.
The North Carolina Aquarium offers three locations for visitors at Pine Knoll Shores, Fort Fisher and Roanoke Island. Each location offers an experience a little bit different from the others. aShLEy VaNSaNt Photo
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ADMISSION FEES Adults (ages 13-61): $12.95 Seniors (ages 62 and older): $11.95 Military: $11.95 Children (ages 3-12): $10.95 Ages 2 and younger, N.C. Aquarium Society members: free
HOURS 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily Close on Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays
INFORMATION www.ncaquariums.com Roanoke Island: 252-475-2300 Pine Knoll Shores: 252-247-4003 Fort Fisher: 910-772-0500
aShLEy VaNSaNt Photo
N.C. aQUarIUM Photo
N.C. aQUarIUM Photo
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21
OCRACOKE ISLAND
The full package of history and the outdoors
I
t’s not often that travellers can find a location with a little bit of architectural history, a relaxing beach environment, views of nature and quaint shops to pass the time. Ocracoke Island is that location. Just a few hours away, Washingtonians can take a day or two to explore all Ocracoke has to offer, and the vacation begins with the ferry ride, according to Sundae Horn, director of travel and tourism at the Ocracoke Civic and Business Association. “We definitely have the sense that you’re coming to an island, and that’s unique,” Horn said. “Once you get here, you know,
our beach is definitely our best asset.” She said there is also a little something for everyone, including boating activities, nature trails, a World War II-era cemetery honoring British soldiers and a section of the beach inhabited by wild ponies. The island’s famous lighthouse is just the beginning. Ocracoke also features celebrations on the island, whether it’s the Ocrafolk Festival every June, the return of Fourth of July fireworks or October’s Pirate Jamboree. Horn said the island is marketed as a short getaway destination, and while many families spend an entire week there, it’s perfect for a weekend trip, too.
ADMISSION FEES
Lighthouse/historic tours, beach access and nature trails are free. Cost of boating charters and rentals vary.
HOURS Times vary based on attraction.
INFORMATION www.ocracokevillage.com 252-928-6711
Ocracoke Island offers a well-rounded experience with its historical attractions, nature trails, sprawling beaches, famous lighthouse and restaurants and shops to keep visitors busy. CoNNIE LEINbaCh Photo
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oCraCoKE ISLaND rEaLty Photo
CoNNIE LEINbaCh Photo
MELINDa SUttoN Photo
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 23
SYLVAN HEIGHTS BIRD PARK Unusual species in an unlikely place
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estled in the small town of Scotland Neck is an unlikely treasure — full of more than 250 bird species from across the globe. Sylvan Heights Bird Park has more than 2,000 birds on exhibit, including more than 150 waterfowl species, such as geese and swans, according to Executive Director Michael Lubbock. The park spans 28 acres, 18 of which are enclosed exhibits. “It’s the largest bird park in North America. There’s nothing quite like it,” Lubbock said. Every year or so, the park tries to add to its attractions, and next year it will debut “Wings of Tropics,” a walk-through aviary.
“It’s going to be pretty neat,” Lubbock said. “What we try to do is give our members…something new each year to come back and see.” Although the attractions are important, even moreso is the conservation aspect of the park, including programs to breed species and return them to the wild, he said. Lubbock said he hopes visitors will leave the park with an appreciation for the birds and understand the importance of protecting them. Education encourages the support of conservation. “In order to do those things, you have to show the birds,” he said. “People need to get something out of it.”
ADMISSION FEES Adults (ages 13-61): $10 Seniors (ages 62 and older): $8 Children (ages 3-12): $6 Children 2 and under: free
HOURS 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., Tuesdays through Sundays
INFORMATION www.shwpark.com 252-826-3186
Expect the unexpected at Scotland Neck's Sylvan Heights Bird Park, which features more than 2,000 birds on exhibit. PhotoS by KatIE LUbboCK
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JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25
CLUB LIFE
The Herring Club celebrates a rich, tight-knit tradition of fellowship among the descendants of the original group of friends, who founded the club back in the late 1940s. The current members are just as close as the founding group, which, in part, can be attributed to time spent together at the club during social functions. Pictured are members past with various political figures in North Carolina during the 1950s. PhotoS ProVIDED by hErrINg CLUb
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FISH FRIENDSHIP Club promotes bond between members, generations STORY By JONATHAN ROWE | Photos By MEREDITH LOUGHLIN
B
eaufort County is steeped in rich traditions, those that are carried by the residents of the area. The Herring Club, a social club in Washington that started with a group of volunteer firemen, is more than a tradition. It’s a brotherhood, of sorts. That tradition continues today with the descendants of the men who started it more than half a century ago. It all began in the late 1940s with a group of volunteer firemen at the old fire station in downtown Washington who met on a regular basis to socialize and play cards, according to Brownie Futrell, son of one of the founding members, Ashley B. Futrell Sr. The group soon began to fellowship through fish fries, an element that would become a way of life for them. But what began as a small group of friends frying fish and sharing each other’s company would continue through generations into the 21st century. “It was strictly social — a group of
men who enjoyed each other’s company and wanted to create something a little unique, and I think they certainly succeeded in doing that,” Futrell said. According to Futrell, the primary force behind the club was Wayland Sermons Sr. An idea to acquire land on a body of water nearby was realized when the club’s founding members found a spot right on Tranter’s Creek in the 1950s. It was a modest setup, at first — a small shack that served as the clubhouse in the beginning years. In the 1960s, however, members came together and had a building constructed for club operations and gatherings. The men would meet each week for eight weeks during the spring and fish for herring, the origin of the club’s namesake, right out of Tranter’s Creek. Lewis Sloan, a member of the club since the mid-1980s, says some of his best memories of the club were joining Ox Langley, a member at the time, on his boat to check the nets cast to catch the JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 27
Andrew Howard announces the serving of dinner at a recent Herring Club social engagement. Howard was responsible for commissioning and leading a cooking crew. It is customary for each member of the club to head the cooking duties for each gathering.
herring that would be the feast for the club. “That day of the party, you’d pull these fish out and clean them up and get them ready for the fire,” Sloan said. “Those were great memories.” Futrell says the days of catching the herring straight from the creek are over, as the state of North Carolina has since passed a moratorium on catching herring. The club now orders frozen herring from South Carolina for most weeks during its spring gatherings and supplements catfish and trout during other weeks. A pig picking serves as the feast for the club’s final gathering of the season, according to Futrell. One of the most unique aspects of the club is membership can only be obtained through legacy — being passed down from a father or grandfather. In some cases, if 28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
a member so chooses, a membership can be passed down to a son-in-law. But the club will never grow, according to Sloan. There are 35 members, and each member is permitted to grant one associate membership — to a son, in most cases. Associate members pay dues just like regular members. They can also bring one guest to each gathering, unlike members, who can bring an unlimited number of guests. “That associate member is able to come up (to the club) whenever there is a party, just like a member,” Sloan said. “The only difference is, when it comes to voting on club business, only a member has that right. Each member has 1/35 undivided membership. It’s almost like a fraternity in a sense. It’s just a neat thing. It really is.” Though the structure of its membership remains, the club has changed a bit over
the decades. The men in the group aren’t the only ones who get to enjoy the club and all it has to offer, according to Futrell. In its early years, the men would invite their spouses and significant others to join in the festivities once or twice per year. Today, ladies’ nights are hosted every other week, giving the women behind the men a prominent presence in the club and its sense of unity. About five or six years ago, the group also added four weeks of gatherings in the fall season, something that was added after a suggestion to capitalize on the cool, crisp autumn evenings of eastern North Carolina. As for the founding members envisioning
The Herring Club began as a group of friends who got together to cook herring fish. The club still cooks herring from South Carolina when they’re in season. The main course, which is always some type of fish, is accompanied by roe, homemade coleslaw and hush puppies, potatoes and an appetizer of clam chowder, also made by members.
the club to have continued to what it is today — Futrell is unsure. How could the subsequent generations of men be as close as the founding group? “It’s ver y unusual that there is an open slot,” Futrell said. “The only way I was able to get mine was through my father. The original members were very, very close, and as you got to the fourth generation, you would think those bonds wouldn’t be that strong, but they are. The bonds of the club, even as we’ve gone to third and fourth generation, are as strong as they ever were, and I think that’s a tribute to the folks who were in it.” Futrell says the bond between today’s
members has been solidified through the club itself, especially the cooking. Each member is responsible for serving on the cooking team once per season. A cook is elected for each gathering, and the cook gathers a group to take responsibility for the food that is served. The team meets on-site on the morning of the event, fellowships in lunch together and works together to prepare the fish, roe, potatoes, coleslaw, hushpuppies and clam chowder, an appetizer served to those in attendance. “A lot of the fellowship is from that group that is there all day long-preparing for the evening’s festivities. I don’t know if they ever envisioned that it would come to this,” Futrell said. “It was just a group of guys that enjoyed each other’s fellowship. The founders would be pleasantly surprised to see we keep the tradition, not just out of responsibility to their
memory, but also because we connect on the same level they connected. It’s a tribute to them, but also a blessing to us, as well.” The club has not only served as a medium in which a group of friends has bonded through fellowship and common interest, but also been a place where fathers and sons could bond. Futrell says his fondest memory of the club was time spent there with his dad as a boy, where he was first introduced to the Herring Club. “It was something near and dear to his heart,” Futrell said. “He brought me in at an early age to see a side of him I normally would not see in fellowship with his friends at a place he loved. It was a great time to spend time with my dad in that setting. It was a special time for me being able to spend that with my own father.” JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 29
LIVING HISTORY
FIRST PORT
STORY AND PHOTOS By VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
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Mr. Eden has sent to Us a Petition he receiv’d from the Freeholders & Inhabitants of Bath Town in the County of Bath may be made a Sea Port Town, & a Corporation; We are very willing to indulge the Inhabitants of Our Province in any reasonable Request, and we have therefore order’d Our Secretary to draw an Instrument to signify to the Custom house here Our Pleasure that the Town of Bath shall be made a Sea Port Town, & to send a Duplicate of said Instrument to you that you may lay the same before the Survey General of the Customs when he shall arrive Our Province of North Carolina. We doubt not Gentlemen of your Endeavors for the Good of Our Province; So we bid you heartily farewell, …
Bath celebrates 300 years of seaport history
A re-enactment of Blackbeard and crew’s leave-taking from Bath in 1716 drew crowds to Bonner’s Point at the Bath Fest-First Port Celebration. Historian Kevin Duffus narrated the event, as
T
he decree was issued from St. James Palace on Aug. 1, 1716; the approval that designated Bath an official seaport given by England’s Lords Proprietors to the fledgling colony’s Governor Charles Eden. Eden sailed back to the colony with decree
actors boarded dinghies and rowed out to ships anchored in the creek.
in hand, and Bath’s position was sealed as a gateway to commerce from the new world to the old. Then, Bath’s exports were primarily furs, skins and hides taken from the abundant wildlife; later, the fur trade was replaced by the lumber trade, with roofing shingles and naval stores such as
turpentine and pitch among top exports, according to “The Port of Bath,” a 300th anniversary brochure compiled by Bath residents Gillian Hookway-Jones and Marti Buchanan. Ships as large as 250 tons made their way through the shifting banks of Ocracoke inlet, across the Pamlico Sound
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This is the place for serenity … If I'm anywhere near Bath, I'm going to Bath. — Gov. Pat McCrory
and up the Pamlico River to dock in Bath. They hailed from exotic destinations — Antigua, Barbados, Hispaniola, among them — carrying rum, sugar, salt and other sought-after commodities to ports across the world. Bath was a stopping point in an era where custom duties could be paid in gunpowder and firearms, used to protect the goods, warehouses and docks of North Carolina’s first port. It was the era of pirates and one of the most notable, Blackbeard, was a Bath resident, as were many of his crew. Three hundred years later, the small town of Bath is considered a jewel of North Carolina’s historic sites. So much so, that when Bath residents banded together to celebrate the 300th anniversary of Bath’s seaport designation, the event brought to town not only Department of Cultural Resources Secretary Susan Kluttz, but also N.C. Governor Pat McCrory. “There is nothing more important than historic Bath,” Klutz said. Histor y, and the colonial way of life, captured the town on May 28, in a combined Bath Fest-First Port celebration that had residents and visitors flocking to North Carolina’s oldest town. To a crowd gathered at Bonner’s Point, historian Kevin Duffus told the tale of Blackbeard’s sendoff from Bath, as he and his crew set sail to salvage the riches of a sunken Spanish fleet off the coast of
The Meka II out of Beaufort rests at anchor in Bath Creek. Just outside the picture are jet-skiers and pleasure boaters, but the image in the frame harkens back to the past and what Bath Creek would have looked like centuries ago.
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33
Florida, its ships weighed down with gold and silver, as it traveled from the new world to Spain. Actors in period dress, and “Blackbeard” himself, re-enacted the event, as the sailors boarded dories and rowed out to a ship anchored in the creek, while at shore’s edge, the women of the town waved tearful goodbyes to their menfolk. At the waterfront home of Greater Bath Foundation Vice President Wayne Woolard, actor Clay Raines, dressed as Governor Charles Eden in full cascading wig, would get a laugh from the crowd as he chided McCrory for his breech in etiquette in not wearing his own wig. Gov. Eden then presented a copy of Bath’s seaport decree to Gov. McCrory, followed by GBF President Jason Pair unveiling a framed copy of the decree to be hung at Bath’s Town Hall, according to Mariann McQueen, GBF treasurer. The population of Bath has not changed much in the past 300 years, though its landscape has. The bustling docks are now lost to time; homes now occupy the land where trees once marched up to the creek’s edge. The pirate and his treasure remain a legend still shrouded in mystery. In time, the landscape will change even more, as future visitors will drive into Bath on a road lined with crepe myrtles and live oaks — the trees, the spark that flamed the First Port celebration. Ultimately, the GBF-driven event served as a fundraiser, raising money to care for the young trees in perpetuity. In another 300 years, perhaps those live oaks will still shade the approach to Bath’s hub of Main and Carteret streets, speaking of another era of Bath history, one in which the town celebrated its past, yet looked to its future.
34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
Actor Clay Raines (top), dressed as Gov. Charles Eden, governor of Bath 300 years ago, shares a moment with current North Carolina Gov. Pat McCrory. (Bottom) At a dock next to Bonner’s Point, crew waits for the arrival of Blackbeard to row to ships anchored in Bath Creek during a First Port re-enactment.
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JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35
WHAT'S TO EAT
Chipotle Roasted Pork Tenderloins
Kathey Rumley First Presbyterian Church, Washington 2 (3/4 pound) pork tenderloins, trimmed; 1 teaspoon onion powder; 1 teaspoon garlic powder; 1 1/2 teaspoons salt; 4 tablespoons brown sugar; 2 or 3 largechipotle peppers in adobe sauce, chopped (reserve remaining for another use). Combine all dry ingredients plus the chipotle peppers in a gallon plastic bag and mix well. Add the pork tenderloins and place in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to one hour. Grill for 20 minutes or until desired temperature. Let rest for five minutes before slicing.
36 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
Taste of summer Summertime grilling, chilling on the Pamlico STORY BY KEVIN SCOTT CUTLER | PHOTOS AND FOOD PREPARATION BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
S
ummers along the Pamlico River offer a myriad of reasons to throw an outdoor celebrations. There are family reunions, neighborhood gatherings and sendoff parties for college-bound students. All provide the perfect opportunity to fire up the grill and turn out some truly mouthwatering meals. In this issue we offer the obligatory grilled burger (although Sallie Brodie's version puts fast food fare to shame), along with other tantalizing main courses. Throw in a few side dishes, like Sylvia Barnhill's Greek Shrimp Pasta Salad or Mike and Kara Crawford’s Broccoli with SunDried Tomatoes and Pine Nuts, and you have the makings for a fabulously festive summer meal. As always, these recipes appear courtesy of the Pamlico Pantry collection of cookbooks compiled by the Washington Daily News. Enjoy!
Centenary Fire Department Hamburgers
Sallie Brodie First Presbyterian Church, Washington 5 pounds hamburger; 1 cup applesauce; 1 cup crushed Ritz crackers; 5 teaspoons Accent (optional); 3 teaspoons Tabasco sauce; 5 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce; 1 package French Onion soup mix; 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder. Mix well in large bowl and then form into patties. Serves about 20.
Grilled Tuna Special
golden raisins and/or dried cranberries; 1/2 cup pistachio nuts, shelled (optional); 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon; 1/4 teaspoon ground cumin. Prepare couscous as per package directions, using broth instead of water. Add dried fruit to liquid before the five-minute standing period. Add nuts and spices to finished couscous and fluff with fork.
Blueberry Pie With Crème Chantilly
Jean Shook Plate and Palette, Beaufort County Arts Council 4 cups fresh blueberries, washed and divided; 3/4 cup sugar; 1/2 cup water; 2
tablespoons cornstarch, dissolved in 2 tablespoons water; 1 tablespoon butter; 4 tablespoons Cointreau liqueur; 1/4 cup slivered almonds, toasted; 1 9-inch deep dish pie shell, baked. Combine 1 cup of blueberries, sugar and water in blender and puree until smooth. Pour mixture into medium saucepan and add dissolved cornstarch. Heat until thickened, stirring frequently. Stir in butter and Cointreau. Add almonds and remaining blueberries, stirring gently to combine. Pour into baked pie shell and chill. CRÈME CHANTILLY 1 cup of heavy cream, whipped; two tablespoons sugar; 1/4 teaspoon almond extract. Combine cream, sugar and almond extract in chilled small bowl and whip until stiff peaks form. Just before serving, spread on top of chilled pie. 8 servings.
George Cosentino Old Ford Volunteer Fire Department Ladies Auxiliary Tuna Steaks; Worcestershire sauce; bottled Italian dressing. Marinate tuna steaks in equal amounts Worcestershire sauce and Italian dressing for about two hours. Cook on charcoal grill 10 minutes or until done.
Greek Shrimp Pasta Salad
Sylvia Barnhill Bath Christian Church 1 (16-ounce) package pasta (fusilli); 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1 pound shelled, deveined shrimp; 2 cloves garlic, crushed; 1 tablespoon fresh oregano; 1/4 teaspoon black pepper; 2 bunches green onions, thinly sliced; 3 medium tomatoes, chopped; 8 ounces feta cheese; 1 (2-ounce) can sliced ripe olives, drained. Cook pasta as directed in salt water. In nonstick 12-inch skillet, heat oil; add shrimp, garlic, oregano, pepper and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Cook one minute, stirring frequently. Add green onions and cook two minutes or until shrimp turn opaque. Stir in tomatoes. Remove from heat. Drain pasta and return to sauce pot. Add shrimp mixture, olives and feta cheese; toss well.
Savory Moroccan Couscous
Susan Askren Grace Lutheran Church, Washington 1 (10-ounce) box couscous; 2 cups chicken broth; 1 tablespoon olive oil; 1/2 cup
38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
Broccoli with Sun-Dried Tomatoes and Pine Nuts
Kara and Mike Crawford Plate and Palette, Beaufort County Arts Council 1 head of broccoli, about 1 pound; 3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar; 1 small garlic clove, minced; 5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil; salt and pepper; 2 sun-dried tomatoes, thinly sliced; 2 tablespoons pine nuts, toasted. Cut the broccoli into florets and 1 1/2 inches long. Peel broccoli stems. In a small bowl, whisk together balsamic vinegar, garlic, oil, 1/2 teaspoon of salt and a few pinches of pepper; champagne vinegar (this can be left out if unavailable) Bring a medium-size pot of water to a boil. Add 1/2 teaspoon of salt. Drop in the broccoli stems and cook for about three minutes, add florets at the last minute. The broccoli should be bright green and slightly crisp. Drain and rinse with cold water. Toss the broccoli with sundried tomatoes, pine nuts and vinaigrette. Add salt and pepper to taste and a splash of champagne vinegar. Four to six servings.
Visit the Tideland EMC Timeline at www.tidelandemc.com/history JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39
RIVER LIVING
Going coastal
Historic home gets new life on the river STORY AND PHOTOS By VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
A sweeping lawn, lined with age-old pecan, magnolia and cedar trees, slopes up from the river to wide, stone steps. The colors — red brick with white trim, sage terra cotta roof tiles — pop against a Carolina blue sky. From the water, the view of this West Main Street home is breathtaking. And it’s precisely that view that brought the Ninan family home to Washington. The Ninans’ journey from Atlanta, to Philadelphia, to Washington started with a family boat ride down the Tar-Pamlico 40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
River. As siblings Swanson Graves and Sarah Ninan cruised past the riverside of 621 W. Main St., Sarah Ninan looked up, took in the house and said, “Now that’s the house I need.” Her brother replied, “Well, it’s for sale.” Six months later, Sarah and Philip Ninan were owners of the part Georgian, part Colonial Revival style house in the heart of Washington’s historic district, though it would take another eight years before they truly called it home.
I don’t consider myself a very formal person. I do break out the more formal things on occasion, but that’s not how I want to live every day. In those the years, there was plenty of work to do. Since its construction in 1917 by Beverly Moss, of the Moss Planing Mill family, the home had been diligently cared for, but the era in which it was built was a formal one. Visitors were greeted in the front
hall and shown to the formal parlor. Families dressed for dinner at tables that seated many. The river, idly flowing by, was not a focal point for homes such as these, though there it was, just a walk down the lawn away. Most homes of this era are oriented toward
A three-piece stone sea serpent (opposite page) wends its way across the backyard of Sarah and Philip Ninan’s West Main Street home. For years, neighborhood children have stolen into the yard to reverse the serpent’s direction, a tradition started by previous owners Franke and Stewart Rumley’s children; (above) soft blues and yellows and natural rugs give this formerly formal home in the heart of Washington’s historic district a cozier, coastal feel. JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 41
the street, but it was the river that drew the Ninans to this stately property. Transforming formal to casual, changing its focus from street-side to riverside, was the first challenge. “I don’t consider myself a very formal person,” Sarah Ninan said. “I do break out the more formal things on occasion, but that’s not how I want to live every day. … Creating a warm and comfortable family room and sitting room to look at the river were huge priorities.” To do so, meant major construction. The only downstairs room with an unencumbered view of the river was a small breakfast nook off the kitchen. Like many kitchen areas, these two rooms historically have been the gathering place for friends and family — and a crowded one, at that. The Ninans realized if they extended the house onto the back porch, they would find much-needed space. Two exterior brick walls later, the breakfast room was replaced with a sunroom that links the kitchen and adjacent living room in a u-shaped formation. With the river view accomplished, the rest of the house needed a softer, cozier feel. Sarah Ninan enlisted the help of decorating friends to replace reserved with relaxed, formal with coastal, and they accomplished it with soft, beachy colors for walls, woven, natural rugs for floors, interspersed with Asian artwork and antiques passed down through the family. And it was all done with an eye toward comfort. “I went into a furniture place in Atlanta called the Comfortable Chair
(Top) Renovations upstairs included lengthening a very steep staircase to what was formerly an attic and is now an open living area with an additional sleeping space as well as a separate bedroom; (bottom) a wide, central hall run from the front door to the back porch, inviting summer breezes to flow through the historic home. 42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
Store and every chair I purchased had to be super comfortable,” Sarah Ninan laughed. “Philip and I want the house to be a place where people continue to enjoy each others’ company. I want the rooms to be used.” That comfort extends to a third floor, originally built as servants’ quarters and later used as attic space. Under the Ninans’ ministrations, it now contains an open living area with sleeper sofas and an additional bedroom — the perfect place for their children and friends to set up camp for a weekend. Throughout the renovations, the Ninans made sure to alter only what they needed to accomplish their goals of less formal, more coastal. “We tried to keep everything as original throughout as best we could,” Sarah Ninan said. The effort is a nod to both the past and future and the stewardship aspect of owning a historic home. “We feel very privileged to be the caretakers of that house,” Philip Ninan said. Nearly a century ago, it was built as a showpiece. From the street, it remains as formal as ever, its square, brick face softened only by a columned portico. It’s spacious, high-ceilinged front hall that runs clear to the back porch, its long, dog-legged staircase and banister, are still as grand as they’ve ever been. But with the Ninans’ care and vision, it’s finally become what it always should have been — a place to put up one’s feet, relax and watch the river go by. A river house.
(Top) Once part of the back porch, the Ninans moved exterior walls framing the riverside of the family room and an adjacent breakfast nook to make a sunroom that connects the kitchen and family room and adds indoor space to enjoy the view outdoors; (bottom) a formal columned portico greets visitors on West Main Street, but inside, the feel of the home is far more casual and relaxed. JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43
The Ninans’ pup Scout finds a place for a liedown in the dining room. The table, one of many antiques throughout the house, was passed down through Sarah Ninan’s family.
Philip and I want the house to be a place where people continue to enjoy each others’ company. I want the rooms to be used.
44 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
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46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
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CAST A LINE
Go heavy and light for late-summer Pamlico angling
L
STORY AND PhOTO BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS
ate summer fishing on the Pamlico offers several thrilling options. The giant red drum have moved into the Pamlico Sound and lower reaches of the Pamlico to spawn and create ample opportunities for anglers to land a trophy fi sh. The "little fi sh" fi shing is also in full swing, with excellent fl ounder fi shing and a good mix of speckled trout, puppy drum and striped bass for the light tackle enthusiasts. Only discovered and enjoyed by a few dedicated fishermen, the giant red drum are highly desirable by trophy anglers and one of my most popular charter offerings as a guide. We are so lucky to have one of the country's best are approximately 1 pound in weight inshore saltwater fisheries on our back per inch in length. Some fish have been porch. There is no other place where aged into the 70s. When the fish are fishermen can catch multiple trophy- abundant, anglers routinely have doublesized red drum (30-60 pounders) in a digit catch and release trips. single outing. Although the giant red drum Yes, other popular inshore fishing destinations such as the Louisiana delta Get outside and check out what have a proliferation of we have here in this beautiful red drum; however, no other state can compare part of the North Carolina coast. in abundance of adult fish to North Carolina. Adult Red Drum, which is our state are extremely popular, August and fish, enter the Pamlico River and September host some of the best light Sound in the late summer and early tackle fishing of the season. Each year, fall (mainly August and September) for we are offering anglers more and more their annual spawning ritual. These fish opportunities for "combo" trips, where are typically 35-52 inches in length and we target the giant red drum for a few
48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
hours in the morning and then switch to light tackle fishing for the remainder of the trip. This is truly the best of both worlds, where anglers can experience the "big pullage" of big fish and the reward of the more technical aspect of light tackle fishing on artificials and taking a few of those tasty fish home for dinner. I encourage you to explore these opportunities in August and September on the Pamlico. You likely won't be disappointed. Get outside and check out what we have here in this beautiful part of the North Carolina coast. Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com.
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49
DINING GUIDE
50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51
DINING GUIDE
52 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 53
WORD ON WINE
Wines to beat the summer heat
E
ven for diehard red wine lovers during the dog days of summer, when much of leisure time is spent outdoors, cooler drinks are more appealing and certainly more refreshing than room-temperature, warmer drinks. While cool crisp whites — Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Viognier — can be just as appealing in June as they are in January, the winter reds, however — Cabernet, Zinfandel, Syrah — can be overpowering in the middle of July. Another important consideration when choosing your wine is the temperature at which it is best served. Wines that are best served at room temperature are the ones to choose for the cooler seasons
WRITTEN BY VIRGINIA FINNERTY when you probably wouldn’t care for a cold drink. Wines that are best when served cold are the best ones to drink during the hot summer months when you are more likely to crave a colder drink. However, that doesn’t mean you have to totally give up reds for the entire summer. Look for thinskinned varietals like Pinot Noir, Grenache (Garnacha), Sangiovese and Tempranillo. A good wine shop will most certainly carr y light and fruity examples of these grapes. Or, look for selections such as Beaujolais that are best served slightly chilled. Although hearty reds are generally considered too heavy and alcoholic for hot weather, they can have a place too. Zinfandels, for example, are
an excellent pairing for barbecued food. A general rule of thumb is to try to avoid overly tannic or oaked reds of any variety during the steamy summer months. If you can’t make up your mind whether to have white or red, you don’t have to! Dry rosés are perfect for summer enjoyment of vino. I am not referring to the sweet "blush" wines like White Zinfandel. Dry rosé wines pair beautifully with either meat or fish and are the favorite choice of wine connoisseurs on a hot day. Almost every winemaking region produces rosés, which can be made from practically any grape. However for summer consumption avoid dark rosés with high alcohol content. Some good choices for 2016:
FROM NEW ZEALAND S p y Va l l e y S a u v i g n o n B l a n c , ($19.99), Marlborough, is pale straw in color. Classic Marlborough aromas of grapefruit, elderflower and a fusion of tropical fruits. Crisp and fine with a silken mouthfeel. Pu r e f r u i t f l a v o r s t h a t p e r s i s t through to a dry finish. Food pairing is seafood heaven: green-lipped mussels, oysters, smoked salmon and sushi/sashimi. The Crossings Sauvignon Blanc ($19), Awatere Valley, Marlborough,
54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
shows lifted notes of gooseberr y and passionfruit, underpinned with citrus notes. The palate is full with pure fruit flavors, yet balanced with a persistent, crisp mineral finish. Enjoy with both fresh and cooked seafood dishes such as oysters, prawns and fish. Yealands Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($18), Awatere Valley, Marlborough, has racy lime, mineral and fresh herb fl avors and is also quite delicious. Enjoy as an aperitif or with freshly
shucked oysters, prawns, green lip mussels and clams. Also matches brilliantly with a goat cheese salad. This wine is suitable for vegetarians, vegans and gluten free diets. Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc ($18), Marlborough, is a round, approachable wine with a pear and tropical fruit rather than citrus core. Great to drink with anyone at any time. Pairs brilliantly with fresh oysters, asparagus, lobster or summer salads.
FROM SPAIN Bodega Matarromera Melior Verdejo ($12), Rueda, is a fresh and floral wine made entirely with Verdejo grapes; it has lively acidity and flavors of pear and lime zest that give it an enjoyable quaff. Verdejo is excellent with greens dressed in vinaigrette and other sharp ingredients such as tomatoes and olives. Fish and shellfish are also natural partners. Bodegas Angel Rodríguez Martínsancho Verdejo ($22), Rueda, is pale yellow, with vibrant, mineralinflected aromas and flavors of
citrus fruits and green apple, with quinine and white pepper nuances. Dry and racy, offering zesty lift and a long, focused finish. Works well with all sorts of seafood dishes or with fresh cheeses. El Coto Rioja Rosé ($17) is a traditional blend of Tempranillo and Garnacha. It has tangy, red cherry aromas with piquant herbal notes and ripe, juicy flavors on the palate. Cleansing acidity helps balance the fruit and helps the long, clean finish. Pairs well with salads and Asian fare.
Marqués de Caceres Rioja Rosé ($9.99) is a bright, coral pink color of medium intensity. Notes of red currants, a touch of aniseed and white flowers come through on the nose. Deliciously full and fleshy in the mouth, luscious, versatile and very fresh. This rosé has established itself as a reference within its category. Classy and elegant, rich, yet balanced on the palate, it makes an excellent match to typical Mediterranean cuisine, such as paella and lightly spiced dishes.
FROM THE US JUSTIN Rosé ($20) is a pale salmon color, light and refreshing with a twist — it's made from cabernet sauvignon grapes, JUSTIN's flagship grape variety. It makes a great food-pairing wine that’s perfect with most summer fare, from a fresh, sliced heirloom tomato and burrata salad garnished with fresh basil, wood-fired pizzas or
rotisserie chicken with garlic and fresh picked thyme. Stinson Vineyards Rosé Monticello ( $ 1 9 ) 1 0 0 - p e rc e n t M o u r v è d r e , begins with classic rosé aromas of strawberr y and sea salt along with a bit of an earthy and smoky note. Tasting reveals a crisp and lively wine loaded with fresh fruit
— mainly watermelon, strawberr y and cranberry. It ends with a little white pepper and spicy minerality on the long finish where a bit of that smokiness from the nose returns. It is the perfect summer alternative to sauvignon blanc. Pairs well year round with seafood, poultry and light Mediterranean fare.
well-balanced and round. Enjoy with lamb chops and grilled duck fillets. Guigal 2014 Côtes-du-Rhône Rosé ($16), produced by saignée from grenache, syrah, and cinsault, this dry rosé is fruity and rich with an
intriguing and appetizing bitterness on the finish. There are no better wines to drink with appetizers, informal buffets, summer outdoor meals, spicy foods, grilled fish, white meat and poultry.
FROM FRANCE Chapoutier 2014 Belleruche Rosé Côtes-du-Rhône ($16), Belleruche Rose's color is a light pink with salmonpink highlights. This wine has aromas of red fruits, currant, raspberry and cherry. On the palate, the freshness is
Virginia Finnerty is the owner of Pamlico House Bed & Breakfast and its in-house wine shop. JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 55
CALENDAR
OUT AND ABOUT
JULY
Learn about pairing beer
Senior Dance
p.m. The day’s event schedule
and food on this cruise down
Washington Civic Center,
will be announced closer to pro-
July 4
the Pamlico River aboard the
Washington
gram. For more information, call
Historic Washington Ghost Walk
Belle of Washington. 6-9 p.m.
Singles and Couples over 50
www.eventbrite.com/o/pam-
are welcome to come and dance
Downtown Washington
lico-cruises-llc-belle-of-washing-
the night away. Admission is $7.
ton-8364557891
50/50 drawing. Door prizes.
Full Moon Paddle
No Alcohol/No Smoking/No
Inner Banks Outfitters, 1020 E. Main
This 90-minute ghost walk begins at Harding Square, in the rose garden at the foot of Market
July 9
Street, beside the Washington Chamber of Commerce/Visitor
Wine and Cheese Paddle
Center. Ticket sales start at 7:30 p.m. for the 8 p.m. walk. For more information, call 252-402-8595.
Children. 7 p.m.
252-923-3971.
July 19
St., Washington
Paddle from Runyon Creek up the Pamlico River and paddle
Inner Banks Outfitters, 1020 E. Main
Bicycle Road Tour of the Park
St., Washington
Goose Creek State Park
river. Bring your own kayak or
back as the moon rises over the
Paddle from Runyon Creek up
Join a Ranger for a tour and
SUP, or rent. 7:45 p.m. Call 252975-3006 for more information.
the Pamlico River and stop for
discussion of areas of the park
July 4
wine, cheese and the sunset.
via bicycle. All riders must wear
Fourth of July Celebration
Bring your own kayak or SUP, or
a helmet. We hope to see a va-
July 21
rent. 5 p.m. Call 252-975-3006
riety of wildlife and learn of fu-
for more information.
ture developments. Meet at the
Tales of a Tarheel Fishing Guide
Festival Park, Washington waterfront
Bring the entire family (and some lawn chairs) for this evening of live music, fireworks and family fun. Call 252-946-3969 for more information.
visitor center parking lot prior to
The Backsliders Turnage Theatre, Washington
10 a.m. Call 252-923-2191 for more information.
The Backsliders are hardcore
North Carolina Estuarium
223 E. Water St., Washington Local fishing guide Capt. Richard Andrews of Tar-Pam Guid-
honky tonk, an alternative-tradi-
July 15
ing talks about fishing and his
tional country-rock band com-
Music in the Streets
adventures on the river. 7 p.m.
Fourth of July Celebration
posed of Chip Robinson, Steve
Downtown Washington
For more information, call 252-
Howell, Danny Kurtz, Jeff Dennis
Every third Friday Main Street
Downtown Belhaven
and Brad Rice. Curtain time is
is closed to make way for four ar-
Annual Fourth of July Parade
8 p.m. Call Arts of the Pamlico
eas of music and fun activities for
and Festival. The Belhaven pa-
at 252-946-2504 for tickets or
kids and grown-ups alike. Time to
rade is one of the best old-fash-
more information. www.theBack-
cut loose and dance in the street!
A time to showcase Washing-
ioned parades you’ll ever see!
sliders.net.
You decide. Shop, dine and en-
ton’s thriving art scene. Galler-
joy all the Washington Harbor
ies and merchants open late and
District has to offer! 6:30 p.m.
serving refreshments. 5:30–8:30
It’s an experience you won’t want to miss. Activities in addition to
July 14
the parade include vendors, lots
9th Annual Juried Photography Exhibit
of food, Mud Run, helicopter
948-0000.
Art Walk Downtown Washington
p.m. Call 252-946-2504 for
Pirates in the Port
rides, street dances, music and
Arts of the Pamlico, Washington
more. 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.
Opening reception of the ninth
This event focuses on Lt. May-
Annual Juried Photography Ex-
nard’s 1718 visit to Bath after the
more information.
South Main Street, Bath
Wine Tasting Pamlico House Bed & Breakfast,
July 8
hibit from 5:30–7 p.m. at the Tur-
battle at Ocracoke, when Black-
Gizmo Craft Beer & Food Pairing Cruise
nage Theatre gallery. Juried work
beard lost his life. Pirate encamp-
Join Pamlico House owner
from regional photographers will
ment, memorial service for British
Virginia Finnerty for her se-
The Belle of Washington,
be on exhibit through Sept. 1.
lost in the battle and scheduled
ries of wine tastings held from
Free and open to the public.
talks will be held. 10 a.m. to 4
5:30–7:30 p.m. on the fourth Fri-
Washington waterfront
56 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
historic Washington
day of every month. Enjoy light
raised will be donated to Ruth’s
and shrimp, drink a cold beer,
A time to showcase Washing-
snacks perfectly paired with our
House, the local domestic vio-
enjoy some live music and danc-
ton’s thriving art scene. Galler-
featured wines from the in-house
lence shelter.
ing all along the beautiful Pam-
ies and merchants open late and
lico River. 5:30 p.m. Visit www.
serving refreshments. 5:30–8:30
washingtononthewater.com for
p.m. Call 252-946-2504 for
more information.
more information.
wine shop. Call 252-946-5001
Historic Washington Ghost Walk
for details.
Downtown Washington
AUGUST
This 90-minute ghost walk be-
Tribute to Elvis Presley
Wine Tasting
Tar Heel Variety Theatre,
Pamlico House Bed & Breakfast,
gins at Harding Square, in the
Aug. 1
rose garden at the foot of Mar-
National Night Out
ket Street, beside the Washington
Featuring Nicky Harris in an
Join Pamlico House owner Vir-
Beebe Memorial Park, Washington
Chocowinity
historic Washington
Chamber of Commerce/Visitors
energetic performance that pays
ginia Finnerty for her series of
An event celebrated all over
Center. Ticket sales start at 7:30
homage to the King of Rock 'n'
wine tastings held from 5:30–
the US, bringing the community
p.m. for the 8 p.m. walk. For
Roll. 7:30 p.m. Call 252-975-
7:30 p.m. on the fourth Friday of
and law enforcement together to
more information, call 252-402-
2117 for tickets or more infor-
every month. Enjoy light snacks
fight against crime in our neigh-
8595.
mation.
perfectly paired with featured
borhoods. Food, games, demon-
wines from the in-house wine
strations, contests and more. For
Aug. 11
Aug. 18
more information call Kimberly
Senior Dance
Full Moon Paddle
Grimes at 252-943-1715 or
Washington Civic Center,
Inner Banks Outfitters, 1020 E. Main
email kgrimes@washingtonnc.
Washington
St., Washington
gov.
shop. Call 252-946-5001 for details.
Aug. 27 FS Series Triathlon
Singles and Couples over 50
Paddle from Runyon Creek up
are welcome to come and dance
the Pamlico River and paddle
Aug. 6
the night away. Admission is $7.
back as the moon rises over the
Triathloners will swim the Pam-
Wine and Cheese Paddle
50/50 drawing. Door prizes.
river. Bring your own kayak or
lico, run the waterfront and bike
No Alcohol/No Smoking/No
SUP, or rent ours. 7:30 p.m. Call
River Road during the Washing-
Children. 7 p.m.
252-975-3006 for more informa-
ton Olympic Sprint Triathlon, a
tion.
USA Triathlon sanctioned event.
Inner Banks Outfitters, 1020 E. Main St., Washington
Paddle from Runyon Creek up
Washington Park/Washington
Starts in Washington Park at 8
Aug. 13
the Pamlico River and stop for
History Hike
Aug. 19
wine, cheese and the sunset.
Goose Creek State Park
Music in the Streets
a.m. For more information, visit
Bring your own kayak or SUP,
Learn about the history of the
or rent ours. 5 p.m. Call 252-
area starting with the establish-
Every third Friday Main Street
975-3006 for more information.
ment of North Carolina’s first
is closed to make way for four ar-
www.fsseries.com.
Downtown Washington
Flatty Creek Hike Goose Creek State Park
town on this interpretive hike of
eas of music and fun activities for
Meet at the campground park-
Summer Slam
Live Oak Trail. Meet in the last
kids and grown-ups alike. Time to
ing lot to enjoy a relaxing half-
Festival Park, Washington
parking lot. 10 a.m. Call 252-
cut loose and dance in the street!
mile hike out to Flatty Creek.
923-2191 for more information.
You decide. Shop, dine and en-
This area of the park is part of
joy all the Washington Harbor
a National Natural Landmark,
District has to offer! 6:30 p.m.
which was established due to the
The Beautiful Washington waterfront will be the site of the inaugural Cross Fit Summer Slam!
Pickin’ on the Pamlico
Hosted by Fitness Unlimited, this
Festival Park, Washington
diverse ecosystems. 10 a.m. Feel
is a two-person team event, M-M
Celebrate the abundance of
Aug. 26
free to bring bottled water, sun-
and F-F, with Rx, Masters (40+)
seafood that comes from our lo-
Art Walk
screen and bug spray. Call 252-
and scaled divisions. Money
cal waters! All you can eat crabs
Downtown Washington
923-2191 for more information.
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57
RIVER FUN
WILD WATERSPORTS on the Pamlico
STORY by MICHAEL PRUNKA | PHOTOS BY ASHLEY VANSANT 58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
T
here’s no shortage of fun ways to spend a day on the Pamlico River. Some prefer to cast a line and see if they can catch themselves dinner. Others simply enjoy getting out on the water and taking in the breathtaking views. Sometimes, however, the sheer number of recreational activities on the water can be overwhelming for Beaufort County residents and visitors alike. For those who tend to be more adventurous, there are a lot of options for watersports. Few things compare to the river’s mist spraying one’s face as one jumps, wakes and takes a wild ride on the river. No matter the experience level, it’s not always easy to pick up and hit the river for the day. Certain activities require specific conditions and equipment, which is why we broke down what it takes to get the most out of an excursion on the Pamlico. There are places right off the river like Inner Banks Outfitters and Park Boat Company where anyone interested can easily get into whatever watersport piques his or her interest. The equipment can be bought for use for summers to come. If it’s just a weekend of fun on the river, a lot have rental options, too.
The Smithwick family heads out onto the river for an afternoon of fun on the water. Sydney Smithwick, 12, and Braden Smithwick, 9, hang onto the tube as it bumps and rocks with the wake of the river. Austin Smithwick captains the boat while his wife, Kristen, and youngest daughter, Isabella, 6, watch on.
TUBING Few activities on the Pamlico are more popular than tubing. It’s one of the easiest watersports to get into in terms of equipment and skill required. All it takes is getting out on the water, hitching up a tube and taking off. One of the perks of tubing is the scenario can be adjusted to make it suitable for anyone. Simply picking the right location or controlling the speed will make it fun for anyone. A slower, gentler ride may be better for young children, but picking up the pace and making some waves makes it more exciting for even parents. “Tubing can be fun either way,” Austin Smithwick from Park Boat Company said of ideal water conditions. “I prefer it when it’s rough because you get more bounce action. I would say it’s on the other end of the spectrum because you have more fun when it’s rough than when it’s smooth. “Your windier days when it’s choppier and there’s more boat wake, if you’ve got pretty aggressive and adventurous riders, you’ll have more fun.”
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 59
WAKEBOARDING Wakeboarding is one of the more demanding watersports popular on the Pamlico River. It requires a decent amount of physical fitness and skill. For those looking for something a little more athletic, look no further. Wakeboarding offers the opportunity to experience the river in a whole new way. It may not be the most popular of watersports in Beaufort County, but avid wakeboarders will tell you it’s the most exciting. “Wakeboarding is kind of a niche thing in this area,” said Park Boats Company sales manager Bryan Harris. “There’s a small group that does it because
60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
the water’s not always conducive for it. You need to have calm water to do it, but there are areas where it’s popular.” Wakesurfing is a similar alternative that requires a little less physical prowess. Much like wakeboarding, the wakesurfer is pulled behind the boat, but at a lower pace, allowing the rider to ride the wake from the boat. “A lot of manufacturers are gearing toward it because it’s easy and not as physical,” Harris said. “The biggest thing about it is the right boat. You normally put all the weight on one side and the rider gets on that side.”
KNEEBOARDING Much like tubing, kneeboarding is a watersport that can be enjoyed by anyone in the family. Children, teenagers and parents alike can get pulled behind the boat and whimsically bump along or jump wakes without having to be in top-notch condition. While it may not require too much of the rider, the conditions have to be pretty specific. The water needs to be calm. Fortunately enough, that’s not that hard to find. That can be as easy as picking the right location or going out on the water earlier or later in the day.
“Generally speaking, it’s much more preferential when you’re kneeboarding for it to be smooth,” Smithwick said. “Light-wind days and, generally, some of your areas like Bath Creek or in the Tar River. Also, Blounts Creek where the body of water’s a little smaller than the open river. You tend not to get as much wind or water action out there.” Once the work is put in to find the right place and right time, kneeboarding can make for a fun and exciting time on the water.
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61
PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
PADDLEBOARDING
KAYAKING
Paddleboarding has taken Beaufort County by storm as of late. While it does require the water conditions to be almost perfectly calm, it’s versatile enough to draw interest as a recreational or competitive watersport. Competitive paddleboarding, however, isn’t ver y popular. Liane Harsh of Inner Banks Outfitters said most of the interest she’s seen is in paddleboarding as a leisurely activity. One of the things that’s taken off as of late has been paddleboard yoga. “Most people are into recreational paddleboarding,” she said. “There aren’t a lot of races available, so it’s kind of just going out and paddling — paddling with other people, paddling alone. We’re offering yoga. That’s full. We’re booked. People are looking for stuff like that to do.” It’s become a great way to spend some time on the river while staying fit, too. Whether it’s doing yoga while floating on the water or just paddling around, it’s certainly a good way to get a full-body workout.
Much like paddleboarding, kayaking is something that can be enjoyed recreationally or competitively. Kayak races, however, are a lot more popular on the Pamlico River than paddleboard races. They were taking place this year even before summer officially arrived. Inner Banks Outfitters makes it easy and worthwhile to get a kayak out on the river. They’re priced reasonably and available for rent, too. Conditions are generally pretty specific for kayaking. It can’t be too rough on the water. However, when it is optimal, it’s a wonderful experience. A late-afternoon excursion on the river can yield some beautiful sights one would expect in a National Geographic magazine. Inner Banks Outfitters hosts a plethora of events geared toward soaking in the sights on the Pamlico. They also serve as opportunities to socialize with people both from Beaufort County and elsewhere. Hosting moonlight and sunset paddles, and a wine and cheese paddle where kayakers make the trip to Castle Island to toast the sunset amongst new friends over food and drinks.
62 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 63
Y’ALL COME BACK
A
Why I love Washington A great place to call home WRITTEN BY JAMES GAYNOR | PhOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY
s a young boy growing up in the small community of Acre Station, life was pretty simple, but good. I remember, with fondness, the long days of working in the tobacco fields, cutting flowers on the numerous flower farms in Terra Ceia, picking up roots on various farms throughout the county and occasionally picking cotton. As children, we were always working at some odd jobs through various months of the year, and relished in the fact that we were able to make a little bit of money to take to town and spend. “Going to town” (Washington) was always a great event that we eagerly looked forward to. I remember the frequent weekend trips “to town” to visit our favorite shopping destinations — the local A&P store, Jowdy’s record store, McClelland’s Department Store, King Chicken, Bill’s Hotdogs, and occasionally Dr. Pugh’s office and Beaufort County Hospital (which although was segregated at the time, provided good quality health care services to all). And I don’t forget my first char-grilled hamburger when Washington finally got a Hardee’s restaurant. Boy, those were the days! I eventually graduated from Pantego High School and decided that I wanted to see more of the world. So, I enlisted in the U.S. Army and left home for the first time. My experience in the military gave me a broader view of the world as I traveled to numerous parts of the country and had several overseas assignments. After my military career, I settled in the Southwest (Texas) and started college at the University of El Paso. Although I enjoyed the experience of being away from home and being on my 64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
James Gaynor
The people are friendly and the hospitality is beyond reproach. own, there was always something in the back of my mind that drew me back to the place where I had been raised. So after being away for five years, I decided to move back to eastern North Carolina. I settled in Washington, started college at Beaufort Tech (now Beaufort County Community College) in the College Transfer Program. What a great career choice! I transferred to East Carolina University and completed my degree in occupational therapy. After practicing my profession in Greenville for the next eight years, and having many patients in Washington and surrounding areas, I saw
the need for my professional services in my home county which had a severely underserved health care need in my chosen profession. So, in 1995, I decided to strike out on my own and opened my practice, Occupational Therapy Plus Inc., in Washington and have not looked back. I love living in Washington. My wife, Cathy, and I have settled in the Smallwood community, raised our children here and involved ourselves in local civic activities. Washington is a great place to live. The community affords you a great opportunity to get to know your neighbors, offers the advantage of small-town living, but is close enough to other communities such as Greenville and Raleigh should you desire more diversified activities. The people are friendly and the hospitality is beyond reproach. Yes, I lucked out in choosing such a great hometown!
Washington Yacht & Country Club offers one of the most complete activity and social environments on the East Coast. Very few Country Clubs with access to the Intracoastal Waterway offer a full service marina, a championship 18-hole golf course, pool, tennis courts and fine dining. WYCC welcomes newcomers to visit our club! Come play a complimentary round of golf, enjoy a meal in the dining room, and take a swim in the pool to experience what our members enjoy on a daily basis. Washington Yacht & Country Club is member owned.
Take a Private Tour. To learn more, or to experience our fine facility, please contact Brooks Patti at 252-946-3245 • bpatti@wyccnc.com
WASHINGTON YACHT & COUNTRY CLUB
7155 River Road Washington, NC On Broad Creek www.wyccnc.com
JULY/AUGUST 2016 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 65
ADVERTISER INDEX Acre Station Meat Farm, 50 Alexis Davis/Century 21, 46 Arendell Parrott Academy, 35 Arts of the Pamlico, 63 Beaufort County Community College, 49 Bloom Women’s Apparel, 46 Coastal Carolina Regional Airport, 66 Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty, 3 Daughtridge Patio & Hearth, 35 Diane Edwards/CB Coastal Rivers Realty, 16 Dr. Lee Lewis, DDS, PLLC, 66 El Charrito, 50 El Tapatio, 52 Executive Personnel Group, 17 Eye Care Center, 17 Farm Bureau Insurance, 65 Feyer Ford, 53 First South Bank, 25 Fitness Unlimited, inside front cover Fox Hollow Farm, 5 Gail Kenefick/CB Coastal Rivers Realty, 39 Gentiva, inside back cover Gerri McKinley/CB Coastal Rivers Realty, 5 GoldenWay Home Care, 39 Grub Brothers Eatery, 51 Ingall’s Printing, 47 Little Shoppes/South Market Antiques, 46 Lone Leaf Gallery, 5 Mauri Evans/State Farm Insurance, 45 Moore Aquatic & Fitness Center, 45 No Wake Zone Grill, 52 Phillips-Wright Furniture, 47 PotashCorp Aurora, 45 Roberson Cab Service, 23 Ridgewood Rehabilitation & Living Center, 23 Rustic Roots, 46 Ryan Whitford/AssureVest Insurance, 16 Sloan Insurance, 47 Spoon River Artworks & Market, 51 Stewart’s Jewelry Store, 7 Tayloe’s Hospital Pharmacy, 35 The Rich Company, 21 Tideland Electric, 39 Vidant Belhaven, back cover Vidant Home Health & Hospice, 17 Vinny’s Pizza and Subs, 51 Washington Harbor District Alliance, 47 Washington Yacht & Country Club, 65 Zaxby’s, 50
66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | JULY/AUGUST 2016
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We are dedicated to making Belhaven healthier. Your new, 24/7 multispecialty clinic is now open All of us — from lab techs and physicians to nurses and specialty providers — are dedicated to improving you and your family’s health and well-being. With the opening of this state-of-the-art clinic, we will continue to provide you and your loved ones with the comprehensive care you need, 24/7, right in your back yard. The new Vidant Multispecialty Clinic–Belhaven, offering: • 24/7 care • Primary care (including physicals) • Prenatal care • Cardiac consults • X-ray and ultrasound • Physical therapy • Helipad access for emergency transport • Vidant MyChart • Lab work • Specialty care • Preventative care
Learn more at VidantHealth.com/Belhaven. Call 252-943-0600 for an appointment. 598 W. Old County Road, Belhaven 27810