Washington the Magazine July/August 2020

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TAKE A RIDE On back roads and byways, cyclists take to two wheels for exercise, enjoyment

PICNIC ON THE PAMLICO 7 recipes for summer

CRUISE THE PUNGO

Machapunga Ecotours guides an estuary adventure

JULY/AUGUST 2020 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 1

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In this issue

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS WATER SPORTS HIT IT: 18 Legendary water skier overcomes life’s obstacles through faith.

18 CYCLE ON 24

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 12 50 56 58 60 62 66

Publisher’s Note What’s in Store What’s to Eat Dining Guide Wine Column Cast a Line Travel & Leisure Why I Love Washington

LET’S RIDE: Local cycling community welcomes all riders.

24 IN NATURE 34

CRUISING THE PUNGO: Machapunga Ecotours fosters estuary appreciation.

34 DESTINATION WASHINGTON PARK 40

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DREAM HOME: Washington Park couple opts for retirement and restoration in the Inner Banks.

ON THE COVER Local cyclist Betsy Hester prepares to ride out from Inner Banks Outfitters on one of her weekly cycling tours. Find out more about Beaufort County’s friendly cycling community on page 24. (Photo

by Vail Stewart Rumley)

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A NOTE FROM ASHLEY

ADVENTURE AWAITS right outside your door

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n this era of the COVID-19 pandemic, summer has taken on new meaning for many Beaufort County residents.

The opportunity to get outside and enjoy nature is more appreciated now than ever before in our lifetime.

This issue of Washington The Magazine highlights outdoor adventure right here at home, with an exploration of Beaufort County, from river tours to cycling the backroads.

We start with the favorite summer pastime of water skiing and one of the legends of the sport: Kristi Overton Johnson. Before her 80 professional victories, more No. 1 world rankings than any female water skier, induction into the North Carolina Sports Hall of Fame in 2012 and into the International Water Ski & Wakeboard Federation in 2017, Overton Johnson made her skiing debut on the home waterways of Bath Creek and the TarPamlico River. These days, carving a wake takes a back seat to her true calling in life as author, speaker and founder of Kristi Overton Johnson Ministries. Read about her storied life, both on and off the water, on page 18.

Getting on the water isn’t limited to ski boats and tow ropes, however. One man’s passion for the river became a retirement dream come true with Machapunga Ecotours, out of Belhaven. Join Peter Boettger on a tour through the estuarine

system and the bountiful life to found there on page 34.

Outdoor opportunities also abound off the river, down country roads, through fields and forests of the local landscape.

An active community of local cyclists takes to two wheels every week, joining together for exercise, exhilaration and community.

Read about how all cyclists are welcome in this diverse group on page 24.

If you’re looking for a getaway that’s not too far away, look no farther than the Cashie River Treehouses. Built high above the Cashie River in Windsor, the cabins provide a rare view of nature and an innovative way to bring tourists to town.

Travel to this one-of-a-kind destination on page 62.

Finally, no summer is complete without a picnic with family and friends. Whether it’s on a Pamlico River beach, in a riverside park or in the backyard, fresh air might be the secret ingredient that makes a meal.

Visit page 50 for ideas for “Picnicking on the Pamlico.”

Adventure awaits in this issue of Washington The Magazine — and it awaits right outside your door. Have a safe and happy summer!

Ashley Vansant, Publisher

We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@

Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine.

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Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Matt Debnam Vail Stewart Rumley Mitchell Thomas Contributors Richard Andrews Cashie River Treehouses Jill Paxson Kristi Media Keith Mason Machapunga Ecotours Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Kristen Smith Amy Whitaker Scott Williamson Distribution Kim Riggs Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2020, Washington Newsmedia, LLC.

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WHAT'S IN STORE

A piece of

Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED

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River Ready Sail down the river without a worry, stocked with everything you need for a day on the water. Say cheers with disposable cups with a little flair, (c.) $8.95.

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Blinded by the light Find a perfect pair of O’Neill sunglasses, (i.) $59, to wear while cruising around the county. A wide selection of quality sunglasses can be found at NautiLife in downtown Washington.

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Carolina in my mind Evoking the legendary James Taylor, this printed tea towel is a celebration of home, (j.) $16.95. It can be found at Cottage Junkies in downtown Washington.

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Pet Bling Make sure the furry family member is ready to ride with these stylish dog collars, (l.) $25. Find a variety of dog collars at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

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Loyal, Local, Love Local love can keep your beverages cool with these 252 wine tumblers, (o.) $24.95. Buy local at Cottage Junkies in downtown Washington.

Summer Ruffles Stay cool on the river with this off-the-shoulder dress, (m.) $59.95, paired with a handmade necklace made by Beaded Blues, (n.) $28.95. Find this outfit at Cottage Junkies in downtown Washington.

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WASHINGTON HARBOR DISTRICT

FINDING THE RIGHT POLICIES FOR YOU!

HIT IT STORY BY MITCHELL THOMAS PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY KRISTI MEDIA

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risti Overton Johnson is more than just a world champion water skier. She was the winner of eight U.S. Masters championships, four U.S. Open championships and a world record holder in slalom for more than a decade.

“Hit it,” is Overton Johnson’s mantra. Every day when she was on the water, regardless of the weather, she would yell the phrase at the boat pilot when she was all squared away and ready to go. Now, she’s taken that phrase and applied it to her everyday life, giving motivational speeches at venues across the country, encouraging her audience to never give up, even if life has knocked them down.

“You’re either going to say ‘hit it,’ or you’re going to ‘quit it,’” Overton Johnson said.

While Overton Johnson’s childhood was spent in Greenville, her legendary waterskiing was well known on the Pamlico River, Bath Creek, the Tar River and a multitude of other areas, where she spent days on the water with her family, perfecting her craft.

“I cherish those days. My mom, dad, my brother and myself would just go out there all the time, find a spot in those back creeks and stay there all day. We’d anchor down and eat lunch, pile up all the skis in other boats, then go back to taking turns skiing. Those were the best times, because our family was together,” Overton Johnson said.

In 1981, when Overton Johnson was 12 years old, her father, Parker Overton, built a lake in Grimesland and named it “Lake Kristi.”

The lake is specifically designed for water skiing, and it even hosted the U.S. Open Water Skiing Championship in 1996 and 1997. Today, it is the home base of East Carolina University’s cross-country team.

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Legendary water skier overcomes life’s obstacles

THROUGH FAITH JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 19

From taking top honors in national waterskiing competitions to now offering words of comfort and encouragement to the incarcerated, Kristi Overton Johnson has used her life’s challenges to bring others to God.

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Though a series of injuries and surgeries ended her career as a professional waterskier, Kristi Overton Johnson has since refocused her life on the spiritual health of others.

“My dad wanted me to have a place that protected me, so that I didn’t have to worry about other boaters, the wind and the jellyfish. The jellyfish and the snakes made me a better skier — I didn’t want to fall,” Overton Johnson laughed.

She graduated from J.H. Rose High School, then attended The University of Central Florida on a water-skiing scholarship.

“Pretty much all the best water skiers in the country end up in Orlando; the warmer weather, and it’s also where you can get a lot of incredible training,” Overton Johnson added.

Overton Johnson won the 1996 U.S. Open in her own backyard. After winning two more Masters and U.S. Open championships in 2000 and 2002, she fell into a seemingly never-ending spell of surgeries. According to Overton Johnson, she went through 16 surgeries within about a decade’s time, which ultimately ended her water-skiing career, but opened the door to an entirely new opportunity.

It was during this time that Overton Johnson discovered she was more than just a skier — she had a greater purpose. Today, she speaks at prisons, churches, schools and other venues

around the country, giving folks a sense of hope, no matter what their current situation may be.

“I realized that my identity was focused on something that could be taken away in a heartbeat,” Overton Johnson said, looking over Lake Kristi. “When I go into prisons and stuff to speak now, I tell them, ‘I fell every day’ out here. But, in the midst of all those failures, I became a world champion because of those two words, ‘Hit it.’ Skiing, life, sports — everything in life is about getting back up when you get knocked down.”

Now, her mission is to make sure she is encouraging people to connect to a power that will never fail them.

“I didn’t ski behind a john boat, nobody was rowing me. I skied behind the best ski boat in the world, the Ski Nautique.

That was my power source. My life’s mission is to make sure people are connected to a power source that will never fail them: God,” Overton Johnson said. “So, when they’re trying to navigate all those obstacles on the crazy waters of life, they’re able to make it. When they fall, they lovingly get picked back up. … The cool thing about the Lord, is He doesn’t care how JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21

you got so down and out, all He cares about is getting you back up. The Lord gives me the ability to speak with these prisoners and other people and helps me relate to them on a personal level, even if it seems like we don’t have anything in common. God breaks down walls; He exposes fears, hurts, and lets a little ol’ water skier come in and bring some refreshing, living water. … I’ve seen men with tattooed tears on their face with real tears streaming down them, and it’s beautiful, because the Lord is telling them to get back up.”

Her quarterly magazine, Victorious Living, has been published since 2011 and tells life stories of hope, according to Overton Johnson. The magazine is sent to countless prisons — with half of a million copies inside of correctional facilities in Florida alone — as well as other facilities across the country. She’s also started a new devotional via her Facebook page, “More Monday,” and posts to it weekly.

While water-skiing, first, and motivational speaking now, have kept Overton Johnson on the road for much of her life, she’s returning to her roots. She, husband Tim Johnson and their three children will reside in Grimesland. ⋇

Through her professional career, Grimesland native Kristi Overton Johnson was a force to be reckoned with in the waterskiing world.

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Jill Paxson pumps the pedals across the Runyon Creek bridge between Washington and Washington Park. See her profile on page 28.

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ALL RIDERS

welcome WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOGRAPHY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

“It’s like riding a bike.”

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hose are the familiar words we often hear when learning a new skill — an ability that will stick with us for the rest of our lives. For a growing community in Beaufort County, riding a bike has become a lifelong passion. Joining together to ride with others, they can be seen wheeling along the roads and highways, from laid-back pedals through Washington to more intense, cross-country sojourns through the local countryside.

While the idea of “cycling” may seem intimidating for those just getting into the sport, it’s a little less so with friends encouraging one’s journey. Locally, avid riders gather weekly, welcoming anyone and everyone to join, from the enthusiastic novice to the most seasoned of cyclists. Their home base is typically Inner Banks Outfitters in Washington, where business owner Liane Harsh acts as an apostle for the sport.

“We have a great cycling community,” Harsh said. “There are a lot of people from a lot of different walks of life. Cycling is kind of like the great equalizer.

It doesn’t matter what you do or how much money you have. It doesn’t really matter who you are. When you’re with that group of cyclists, you’re all kind of on the same playing field.”

From easy riders to the hardcore, here’s what those who ride have to say about this cycling community.

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ADVICE TO NEWCOMERS

“Talk to people who have done it, and who have done it longer. Get advice from them. That’s what I did. Talk to people who ride all the time.”

DAVID HOWDY David Howdy began cycling in his mid-50s. Riding casually with friends at first, just for recreation and exercise, Howdy found himself falling in with the cycling groups that would embark from IBX. He says Harsh played a key roll in both setting him up with the right equipment and helping him build his confidence as a rider.

“Then I started riding with some of the Cycle NC groups when they would come through here,” Howdy said. “We would just go to some of the different places and just ride with them.”

A native of Beaufort County, Howdy says riding a bike along the area’s back roads has given him a chance to experience the beauty of rural eastern North Carolina in a new way. In a sense, he says it’s shown him things about his home county he might not have otherwise experienced.

“I’ve lived here all my life, and I’ve ridden down roads, since I’ve been riding a bicycle, that I’ve never been on in my whole life,” Howdy said. “As much as I think I know the area, there are little roads that have always been there, and I just didn’t know they were there.”

In terms of his favorite routes, Howdy says it’s less about where he rides and more about who he rides with. It’s that sense of community, and cycling with others, that keeps things interesting.

“As much as anything, I enjoy the social aspect and the company,” Howdy said. “It’s safer to ride in a group, and at the end, we’ll all meet up and go to Rachel K’s or somewhere to have coffee. It’s a very friendly place for riders. It’s very welcoming, no matter what level.”

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ADVICE TO NEWCOMERS

“You have to be patient with yourself. It takes what we call ‘time in the saddle.’ It takes time to break your body in.”

BETSY HESTER In days gone by, Betsy Hester was intense in her cycling, most of which she did in the Nash County area. From riding 100 miles a day to 250 miles over a weekend on a regular basis in her 40s, she and her husband, Joe, scaled back their riding as they passed into their 50s, even stopping entirely for a little while. When they bought a home in Beaufort County, however, the two found a renewed passion for their sport.

“It’s just the perfect place to ride,” Hester said. “We had been coming down here for the Cycle NC ride, which cycles about every three years. We would come and stay at Virginia Finnerty’s, at the Pamlico House, for about three or four days. That’s when we bought our house, just so we could ride bikes down here.”

Today, the average ride for the Hesters is somewhere around 25 miles. Some of her favorite routes include trips to Dinah’s Landing and Goose Creek State Park, or a jaunt down River Road to McCotter’s Marina. All of those, she says, offer a nice amount of “time in the saddle.”

“Where we live in Nash County is pretty hilly,” Hester said. “We like riding the flats. It’s easier to deal with the wind than the hills, to me.”

That easy-to-ride, beautiful landscape, paired with a welcoming community of riders, makes Beaufort County a treasure for cyclists like the Hesters. With a place like Inner Banks Outfitters as a hub, there are plenty of opportunities to jump into the sport.

“We’ve all become friends,” Hester said. “It’s really interesting to see how this has brought a group of people together that might not otherwise be friends outside of cycling.”

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ADVICE TO NEWCOMERS

“Liane’s shop is probably a good start.

She sells used bikes and the sport gets more and more expensive, because they’re trying to create carbon bikes that are more lightweight and faster.

You’re only as fast as your body can push you. Some people go and get out of control and buy really expensive bikes for no reason. Entry level bikes shouldn’t break your bank.”

JILL PAXSON Growing up a latch-key kid in New Jersey, Jill Paxson spent plenty of time on a bicycle, killing time waiting for her folks to come home. She kept her bike in college, in lieu of a car, and eventually, what started as a means of transportation grew into a passion.

“When I got into my mid-30s, I started riding more as a sport than just recreationally,” Paxson said. “I kind of played around with triathlons and joined a local cycling group here in Washington after I found Liane.

I started riding more seriously, meaning, usually every day or doing some kind of exercise related to cycling.”

Some of her favorite places to ride are the rural areas of Beaufort County, taking the back roads to places such as Pinetown, Acre Station, Bath and Belhaven.

Starting in Belhaven, she and a group will sometimes 28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

take a day and do a loop around Lake Mattamuskeet.

“It’s nice that you don’t have to spend a lot of time in the city limits to enjoy yourself,” Paxson said.

In her 13 years riding in Beaufort County, Paxson says she has found it to be a friendly place to cycle. For the most part, she finds drivers to be courteous, and meeting up with other riders at Inner Banks Outfitters has allowed her to find a niche of people with a similar passion.

“It’s very diverse,” Paxson said of the cycling community. “There’s a lot of young folks showing up now, and we’ve got a lot of older folks who have retired to the area that are riding or getting back into riding. … It’s very accepting and welcoming and everyone is really excited for everybody else’s improvements.” ⋇

SHORT JAUNTS & LONG HAULS For those just getting on a bike, or the more intense cyclist, Jill Paxson shared some of her favorite routes, as recorded by her Garmin GPS.

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CRUISING

THE PUNGO

Machapunga Ecotours fosters estuary appreciation WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOS CONTRIBUTED BY MACHAPUNGA ECOTOURS

P

eter Boettger has always loved the water. A native of Maryland’s Eastern Shore, he grew up fishing and crabbing amidst the beauty of the Chincoteague Bay and its tributaries. After retiring from a career with the Brody School of Medicine, which was interspersed with hunting and fishing trips along the shores of the Pamlico and Pungo rivers, he decided to focus his passion for nature on a new business venture in Belhaven. It was from that longstanding love that Machapunga Ecotours was born in 2017.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35

Culinary herbs abound at the farm, along with medicinal and aromatic.

Boyd doesn’t limit her crop to just one variety of an herb — she offers many.

From scenic tours in search of birds and other wildlife to seeking aquatic wildlife with seine nets, Machapunga Ecotours offers a wide variety of activities for those interested in learning about Beaufort County’s estuaries.

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“I pretty much had my own skiff from the time I was about 11 years old,” Boettger recalled.

“Several of my friends’ parents and grandparents were all commercial fishermen, and I spent a lot of time on the water recreationally, occasionally helping them out.”

It was the late ’80s when he first tried his hand at fishing in Beaufort County. Starting out in Campbell Creek, it took Boettger close to a decade to figure out the intricacies of fishing in an estuary. Local anglers, as fishermen sometimes are, weren’t keen on sharing their secrets.

In 2002, he got his master’s degree in biology from East Carolina University, concentrating his studies on estuarine ecology, then served on the board of directors for the Pamlico-Tar River Foundation from 2004 to 2010.

“Between that, my childhood growing up where I did, and trying to figure things out on the water down here, that’s how it all kind of came together — that I ultimately wanted to do something on the water when I retired,” Boettger said.

In time, that idea ultimately blossomed into Machapunga Ecotours, named for the Native Americans who once inhabited the Belhaven area.

While Boettger initially envisioned the business as a “boat-assisted kayaking” operation, he soon decided to focus on taking small groups on motorboat tours of the local waterways around Belhaven.

From crabbing and pulling a seine net to watching dolphins play and birds soar, the activities he offers on his trips vary considerably.

At the end of the day, however, they all have a common goal: teaching people about, and fostering an appreciation for, the estuarine ecology.

“The experience I really want them to have is an appreciation for the tremendous resources we have out there — the quantity and diversity of life it supports and its value as both a recreational and economic resource,” Boettger said. “For a lot of people, it’s about the natural beauty of it.”

His main tools for accomplishing that goal are a 25-foot shallow draft boat called Delilah, and a 20-foot aluminum jon boat called Sugaree.

Both can carry up to six passengers, and tours require a minimum of two people. Tours can be scheduled on Thursday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday mornings, embarking around sunrise and

A skill for the ages: armed with a piece of chicken chicken tied to a string and a net, this young ecotourist lands a big blue crab.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37

Birds of a seemingly infinite species are a common sight during a summer Machapunga ecotour, but winter also brings a dazzling display of migratory birds to eastern Beaufort and Hyde counties.

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returning in the late morning hours. 90-minute scenic cruises are also available in the afternoons.

While Boettger just started back up in June after closing down due to statewide COVID-19 restrictions, tours can be scheduled year round, and he says cool-weather bird watching on the Pungo can be a real treat.

“One of the things that has done a lot better is actually the winter bird watching, when all the migratory waterfowl are coming through,” Boettger said. “People tend to think of it as just a warm-weather thing, but I’ve had some incredible tours in the wintertime.”

For more information on scheduling a tour, visit www.machatours.com. ⋇

DEMYSTIFYING LOCAL FISHING Boettger’s 10 years of figuring out fishing in the area might not have yielded many fish at first, but they did produce a lot of trial and error, which in turn led to experience and knowledge. In 2018, he published a new book on the topic called “Angling the Inner Banks: An Ecosystemic Approach.” For anglers interested in learning about the environment that makes Beaufort County fishing so unique, the book is available at East Side Tackle in Washington, and two locations in Belhaven: Game Changer Outdoors and Riddick and Windley Hardware.

A youngster shows off a big blue crab caught during a tour of the Pungo River.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39

DESTINATION

WASHINGTON PARK

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From a modest brick ranch with past flooding issues (below) to a contemporary home with spectacular river views from up high, Paul and Karen Kennedy have brought new life to this Washington Park home.

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

W

hen Paul and Karen Kennedy left South Africa, they had their pick of places to sink the roots of retirement. They’d traveled the world: first, courtesy of the U.S. Navy; then through Paul Kennedy’s consulting work with Russell Athletic, Sara Lee and, finally, Coca Cola.

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The neighbors make all the difference.

— PAUL KENNEDY

Outdoor seating abounds at the Kennedy home, taking maximum advantage of the view of the Pamlico River through Spanish moss-draped oaks and crepe myrtles.

A random detour made that destination Washington.

“We love it here. It was really a big gamble, but we liked the idea that it was on the water, a small town, and being retired, the taxes made a difference. When I asked about the taxes, I thought they were quoting me for a month,” Paul Kennedy laughed.

Low taxes played a part, as did a central location to their children in New Jersey, Atlanta and Myrtle Beach, but it was a bit of serendipity and a detour down memory lane that steered them straight through Washington. On a stateside visit to see friends in Beaufort, Winston-Salem native and East Carolina University graduate Karen Kennedy thought it’d be fun to tour her alma mater on their return trip.

“We were visiting our friends, and I said, ‘Why don’t drive through Greenville,’ and we ended up in Washington, and I said, ‘I don’t remember it looking like this,’” Karen Kennedy said.

A thriving Main Street, a beautiful, walkable waterfront, signs of restoration and rejuvenation throughout town lit a spark. The result was house hunting, even as they headed back to Johannesburg, and by the fall of 2017, they’d settled on a home in Washington Park and a challenge that put Paul Kennedy’s skills to the test.

“He found this house on this site that had been on the market for six months. It was a tear-down, but Paul said, ‘I can fix this up,’” Karen Kennedy said.

“We moved 11 times, and in all the places we lived, I did minor renovations. I just wanted to put all we ever learned into our final house. … All the neighbors thought I was out of my mind. First of all: ‘You’re not from around here.’ Second: ‘Who’s your contractor?’… I didn’t have one,” Paul Kennedy laughed.

On Riverside Drive in Washington Park, the modest brick home had a view of the Spanish moss-draped oaks and the Pamlico River. Past hurricanes had not been kind to it — much JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43

44 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

One of the many additions to the house was this side deck (left) providing outdoor seating for numerous guests, the columns of which can be seen (below) as the home was being raised.

Now an open layout that combines living, dining and kitchen (above), the “before” photo (right) illustrates the gutted version of the same space prior to renovation.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 45

The Kennedy’s main bedroom boasts views of the park and river across the street (top). A third bedroom (above), carved from what was once attic space, offers the same spectacular view. World travelers, the Kennedys have incorporated into their decor many works of art from their last overseas stint in South Africa (right).

46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

of it had succumbed to mold and rot.

“We gutted the whole house. The only thing left was the studs and the roof,” Paul Kennedy said.

A year and a half and 21 full dumpsters of demolition debris later, the house was lifted and settled on a new foundation, 11 feet higher. A small porch was expanded, wrapping around the front and east side of the house. Windows were moved and new wiring, new plumbing, new duct work, new walls, new floors, a new third bedroom where attic space had been and a second full bathroom were added. What they could save, they saved, such as original glass doorknobs scrubbed of decades of grime.

“I wish we could have used the old floor, but I couldn’t match it. It was old maple — just beautiful — but I couldn’t find any more of it,” Paul Kennedy said.

The layout is the Kennedys’ own; the result is their perfect retirement home: open and airy inside, plenty of water views, décor that reflects their

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 47

lifetime of travels and plenty of outdoor seating to watch the sunsets through the trees and the river flowing by.

“We wanted a relaxed atmosphere. … We wanted the relaxation. I love to be outside. Every night and usually every morning, we probably spend most of our time out on the porch,” Paul Kennedy said.

Sometimes the couple is joined by Washington Park neighbors; other times, they’re witness to special occasions — the Washington Park waterfront is a favorite location for prom, graduation and bridal portraits, and recently, an entire wedding ceremony.

“I thought that was very sweet; just to be able to see that from our porch,” Karen Kennedy said.

Where most would have seen only problems, the Kennedys saw possibilities: of a new home crafted from an old one, of a place to settle and become a part of the community. And the community has welcomed them.

“The neighbors are wonderful,” Paul Kennedy said. “When I was here for the six months by myself, most of the neighbors invited me over to dinner almost every night. I kind of felt like I knew them for a long time. The neighbors make all the difference.” ⋇ 48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

A gas range and the convenience of a pot filler make for a cook’s kitchen (top left). The Kennedys restored what could be restored in their home, including several original glass doorknobs (top right).

Once an attic, the Kennedys’ dog Lucy enjoys visiting the upstairs gallery (above), a space that now includes a bedroom, bathroom and large office nook highlighting their art collection.

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WHAT'S TO EAT

PICNICKING ON THE

PAMLICO

T

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

here’s no doubt Beaufort County’s greatest asset is its miles and miles of waterways, winding through this part of the coastal plane to meet the sound and the ocean. From streams and creeks to wide expanses of open water, the Pamlico and Pungo rivers and their many tributaries have shaped the landscape and way of life for many generations.

Come summer every year, those with boats take to the water on sunny weekends; waterfronts and adjacent parks are crowded with families enjoying cool river breezes.

There’s no better way to celebrate summer in Beaufort County than with a picnic on the river—with some of the best picnicking foods to be found, straight from some of the best cooks the county’s had to offer.

You don’t have to settle for sandwiches and chips on your next picnic, however. This issue’s selection of recipes can be made the night before, packed up tight in containers

50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

and enjoyed at your leisure, while at leisure on the river.

From a pasta salad with a lemon twist to a salad that combines sweet and savory with pork and mango; from a salmon roll that can double as an appetizer with crackers or a spread on morning toast to rich dessert bars that will satisfy any sweet tooth, these recipes are ideal for picnics, even those at home in your backyard.

Every now and then, there’s one that stands out from the slate of recipes in any given magazine. The honor this time goes to the Italian Picnic Loaf — Southern Style, a recipe long-time arts supporter Louise Lane donated to “Plate and Palette” by the Beaufort County Arts Council (now Arts of the Pamlico). This sandwich is a sandwich like none other: fun to build and as tasty as can be, and is perfect for a picnic: it travels well and puts the heart in hearty.

With these recipes, this summer’s picnic will be a delectable affair. Now, get out there on the river! ⋇

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51

SALMON ROLL Rachel Armston “Say Grace” Women of the ECLA, Grace Lutheran Church, Washington

1 (15 ounce) can of salmon; 2 (8 ounce) packages cream cheese; 2 tablespoons chopped onion; 2 teaspoons horseradish sauce; 2 teaspoons lemon juice; 1/2 teaspoon salt; parsley flakes.

Mix first six ingredients, shape into a ball and roll in parsley flakes. Refrigerate three hours. **Cook’s note: replacing the canned salmon with chopped smoked salmon and rolling in fresh, chopped parsley make this appetizer even more delectable!

52 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

ITALIAN PICNIC LOAF — SOUTHERN STYLE Louise Lane “Plate and Palette” Beaufort County Arts Council (Arts of the Pamlico), Washington

1 (10-inch) round soft white bread (may use Hawaiian bread); 8 slices Smithfield-type ham, thinly sliced; 8 slices pastrami, thinly sliced; 8 slices smoked turkey breast, thinly sliced; 8 slices of roast beef, thinly sliced; 8 slice provolone cheese, thinly sliced; 8 slices provolone cheese, thinly sliced; 2 (6 ounce) jars marinated artichoke hearts (may use less if desired); 1 (2 ounce) jar pimientos, drained well; 2 tablespoons olive oil.

Carefully cut bread in half to make two flat rounds. Remove inside of each half, leaving a shell with 1-inch border. Brush each half with olive oil.

Drain artichokes and reserve marinade. Place bottom shell on a plate. Put layer of four slices of turkey on bottom, then four slices of pastrami. Scatter artichoke pieces (about six) over this, adding 1 to 2 tablespoons marinade.

Continue layering in any way you wish, being certain to space the cheeses apart. Use drained pimiento in a single layer through the middle, ending with meat on top. Use artichokes and marinade throughout the loaf.

Place top bread shell over this. Press down firmly. Put another dinner plate on top of the sandwich and cover tightly all over with plastic wrap.

Weight down with two or three 1-pound cans and let rest in refrigerator at least eight hours or overnight.

When ready to serve, remove cans and wrapping and cut into eight wedges. **Cook’s note: If pastrami isn’t available, add thinly sliced Genoa salami instead—delicious!

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 53

EASY CHEESY LEMON BARS Brenda C. Godfrey “Praise God, Let’s Eat” Christ Vision Church, Blounts Creek

1 package lemon cake mix; 1/2 cup butter, melted; 1 egg, slightly beaten; 1 package lemon frosting mix; 1 (8 ounce) package cream cheese, softened; 2 eggs.

Combing cake mix, butter and one egg. Mix with fork until moist. Pat into 9-by-13-inch pan, greased on the bottom only. Blend frosting mix and two eggs into cream cheese. Reserve 1/2 cup of cheese and frosting mixture. Beat three to five minutes. Bake at 350 degrees for 30 to 40 minutes. Cool. Spread with reserve frosting mixture.

PORK AND MANGO SALAD Donna Parker “A Taste of Heaven” Women of Ware’s Chapel, Washington

1 large mango or papaya; 1/2 cup plain yogurt; 1 teaspoon sugar; 1/4 teaspoon ground ginger; 4 cups shredded Boston or iceberg lettuce; 2 cups cooked lean strips of pork (approximately 10 ounces); 1 cup orange sections (about two medium oranges); 1/2 avocado, peeled and thinly sliced.

Cut mango in half; peel. Mash enough mango to measure 1/4 cup; cut remaining mango into thin slices. Mix mashed mango, yogurt, sugar and ginger. Arrange lettuce on four plates. Arrange mango slices, pork, oranges and avocado on lettuce. Top with yogurt mixture. **Cook’s note: This salad can easily be transformed into one perfect for picnicking: simply choose your favorite lettuce, chop and mix all ingredients together.

BEST COLESLAW Margaret Lawrence “Heavenly Treasures” Hodges Chapel PH Church, Chocowinity

1 cup mayonnaise; 2 tablespoons milk; 2 tablespoons cider vinegar; 1 1/2 teaspoon sugar; 1 teaspoon salt; 1/8 teaspoon pepper; 1 medium cabbage (8 cups lightly packed), shredded; 1 large carrot, shredded.

In a large bowl, mix mayonnaise, milk, vinegar, sugar, salt and pepper. Add shredded cabbage and carrots. Toss gently until well-coated. Cover and refrigerator about one hour to blend flavors.

54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

BROCCOLI AND BOW TIES Thelma Gene Piland “Without a Doubt, St. Thomas’s Best” St. Thomas Episcopal Church, Bath

Kosher salt; 8 cups broccoli florets; 1/2 pound farfalle (bowtie) pasta; 2 tablespoons unsalted butter; 2 tablespoons good olive oil; 1 teaspoon garlic, minced; 1 lemon, zested; 2 teaspoons salt; 1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper; 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice; 1/4 cup toasted pine nuts; freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Cook broccoli for three minutes in a large pot of boiling, salted water.

Remove broccoli with slotted spoon or sieve. Place in a large bowl and set aside. In the same water, cook the bowtie pasta according to package directions, about 12 minutes. Drain well and add to the broccoli.

Meanwhile, in a small sauté pan, heat the butter and oil and cook the garlic and lemon zest over medium-low heat for 1 minute. Off the heat, add two teaspoons of salt, the pepper and lemon juice, and pour this over broccoli and pasta. Toss well.

To toast the pine nuts, place them in a dry sauté pan over mediumlow heat and cook, tossing often, for about five minutes, until light brown.

CONGO BARS Caroline Cox “Scent from Heaven” Smyrna OFWB Ladies Auxiliary, Blounts Creek

1 pound brown sugar; 1 1/2 sticks butter; 4 eggs; 1 cup pecans; 1 package semi-sweet chocolate chips; 2 3/4 cups self-rising flour.

In a saucepan, melt butter and remove from heat; add brown sugar and mix well. Add flour, nuts and chocolate chips and mix thoroughly. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Butter 9-by-13-inch baking pan and add mixture. Bake for 25 minutes and test for doneness (a toothpick comes out clean).

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 55

DINING GUIDE

KNOW WHERE TO GO T

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56 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

WORD ON WINE

DIVINE WINES FOR SUMMERTIME

S

STORY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOGRAPH BY ELIZABETH REED

ummer is a time for gathering — with family, with friends new and old. Whether picnicking on a Pamlico River beach, watching the sun set over local waterways from the comfort a screened-in porch, perched on the back deck awaiting burgers off the grill or relaxing inside with the AC on high, the high summer days of eastern North Carolina call for all things refreshing, wine included.

There are plenty to be had, according to Mary Mehlich, owner of Wine & Words & Gourmet in downtown Washington.

From a sparkling, cold Vinho Verde to complement your favorite seafood dish or a slightly chilled Pinot Noir to accompany grilled meats, or toasting the sunset on an evening boat cruise with a brut rosé, these nine divine wines await your next summertime gathering. These refreshing wines and more can be found at Wine & Words & Gourmet. ⋇ BROADBENT VINHO VERDE Portugal Blend: 50% Loureiro, 40% Trajadura, 10% Pedernã Vinho Verde, the most popular white wine from Portugal, is a deliciously refreshing, light wine. “Verde,” meaning “green,” refers to the hints of lime color. It is an ideal warm weather wine, excellent for lunch and picnics or as an aperitif. It makes a brilliant pairing with any fish, shellfish and poultry.

NORTICO ALVARINHO Minho, Spain Fresh citrus, peach and tropical aroma paired with clean, juicy fruit and a vibrant minerality. Nortico is produced on the south bank of the Minho River in plots so small they are called ”jardins,” gardens in Portuguese. Pairs beautifully with seafood or a cheese plate.

CASTELLO DI TORRE IN PIETRA ROAM MALVASIA PUNTITATA Italy The nose has delicate aromas of white flowers and peach. Well-structured, fresh and dry with flavors of white peach and pear and a hint of almond followed by minerals and salinity. Pairs well with seafood dishes, fresh cheeses or a vegetable quiche.

DIBON CAVA BRUT ROSÉ Spain Beautiful sparkling rosé with aromas of red fruit and black currants that give way to yeasty flavors that come from the grape aging on the lees. It is very full in the mouth, with a splendid bubbly sensation that fills the whole palate. Long finish with great elegance. Splendid as an aperitif or light summer fare.

MADER PINOT NOIR Alsace, France Because of the high altitude of the vineyard and cool nights, this wine has a crisp, clean purity of fruit. It has flavors of ripe cherry with a hint of spice. Mediumbodied and food friendly. On a warm day, you can chill the bottle for about 30 minutes. Pair with grilled brats, kielbasa or veggie burgers.

HECHT & BANNIER ROSE Cotes De Provence, France Grenache/Cinsault/Vermentino A well-balanced wine with great acidity and a refined finish. It has tasty rosewater and chalk notes with flavors of white cherry, peach, strawberry and cantaloupe.

Fruity, crisp and refreshing. Pair with friends and grilled salmon.

FAMILIA PATRICIO MARTINEZ PIPENO Portezuelo, Chili Pais This Pais comes from organic, dry-farmed bush vines around 250 years old. It is popping with ripe, red cherry up front with a hint of cranberry on the finish. Light, bright, juicy and rustic (reminiscent of Gamay). This is also a chillable red, but no more than 30 minutes.

TATTOO GIRL ROSE OF PINOT NOIR Washington State This wine delivers vibrant aromas and flavors of strawberry, kiwi, guava and citrus. The palate is brightened by lively acidity. It’s a cornucopia of fruit that is most captivating, and pairs well with grilled salmon or pork.

58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

DE CAPO RUCHE CASTAGNOLE MONFERRATO MAJOLI Monferrato, Italy Ruche This wine is made from a rare indigenous grape called Ruché. It provides a spicy aromatic character and a very round taste. There is no other wine like Ruché in Italy: unusual and very delicious, fresh and easy to drink.

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 59

CAST A LINE

FRESHEN UP on the Pamlico

T

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

he Tar-Pamlico River, and its tributaries, gains much of its fishing notoriety from saltwater species such as striped bass, speckled trout, redfish, flounder, tarpon and others, but one often overlooked aspect of our fishing is our fresh water.

Salinity along the Pamlico is always a moving target and changes with the seasonal rainfall and wind patterns; however, the upper reaches of the creeks and the Pamlico itself hosts a plethora of freshwater fishing opportunities. Largemouth bass; various species of sunfish (bream) including pumpkinseeds, red breast sunfish, red ear sunfish, warmouth and bluegill; white perch; yellow perch, chain pickerel; crappie; and some others exist in abundance in our waters. A day fishing in the some of the fresher waters, using the correct technique on conventional or fly tackle, could yield many of the above species in a single outing.

The Pamlico River alone has nine major creek systems, including Chocowinity Bay and many other smaller creeks feeding into the river, and even more tributaries feeding into the major creeks. Each creek has its own “headwater” area. Some creeks have been channelized to drain vast areas of farmland such as Pungo and Pantego creeks near Belhaven, off the Pungo River. Others have large intact blackwater swamp systems such as Blounts Creek or Durham Creek.

Others have something in between, such as Broad Creek or Bath Creek. Each is unique

The tributaries of the Tar-Pamlico River provide ample freshwater fishing. Day fishing might yield catch such as this Tar River bluegill, caught on a popping bug.

60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

I encourage anyone who enjoys fishing our area to get out and explore our freshwater fishing. ...

Who knows what sort of surprises you might encounter around the next bend, heading up a creek you’ve never fished before and might not ever fish again?

— CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

and those unique characteristics provide specific habitat preferences for different species of freshwater fish. In Bath Creek, anglers targeting panfish will catch an abundance of pumpkinseed sunfish but rarely ever see a bluegill or a redbreast. A creek such as Blounts, with much more blackwater swamp habitat, might yield far more bluegills or chain pickerel.

Many young fishermen “cut their teeth” in farm ponds using cane poles, ultralight spinning rods or fly rods targeting panfish. These opportunities are available and abundant here on the river and in the creeks. Some world-class, popping bug fly fishing can be experienced here. Bream are abundant is certain areas and are great fun on a 3-4 weight fly rod or ultralight spinner. In certain places, topwater bass fishing is productive.

The possibilities far outweigh the time that most anglers have to explore them. That is what make the Pamlico a truly unique place. I encourage anyone who enjoys fishing our area to get out and explore our freshwater fishing. It’s a great way to stay protected on a windy day on the open water and who knows what sort of surprises you might encounter around the next bend, heading up a creek you’ve never fished before and might not ever fish again?

Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-945-9715 or richard@ tarpamguide.com. ⋇

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61

TRAVEL & LEISURE

A treehouse ADVENTURE AWAITS WRITTEN BY MITCHELL THOMAS | PHOTOGRAPH CONTRIBUTED BY CASHIE RIVER TREEHOUSES

H

overing high above the Cashie River, nestled in the trees of Windsor, are treehouses awaiting the arrival of guests looking for outdoor adventure on the river.

The treehouses came about when the Town of Windsor was looking for an attraction to change the image of the town and find a positive use for the river, according to Cashie River Treehouses owner Billy Smithwick.

In 2004, the Town of Windsor held a few town meetings about what they could possibly build in the area to help the town economically.

“We talked about several things, but nothing really hit. So, we postponed the meeting for three weeks,” Smithwick said.

“The next time we met, somebody asked someone else, ‘Did you see the treehouse show last night on TV?’ There were two different shows on at the time where people were building treehouses on HGTV or something … Well, I think everybody’s head kind of did the same thing. So, we decided to explore treehouses in the area.”

The river is known for flash flooding during heavy periods of rainfall, so building structure around the base of the river was almost out of the question. Smithwick reached out to “The Treehouse Guys” star Michael Garnier, and the show’s staff mailed Smithwick some preliminary information regarding the treehouses. The folks of Windsor decided it was what they wanted to do over the Cashie River.

“At the time, we didn’t own that land. So, we called the guy that owned it, and he was more than willing to sell it,” Smithwick said. “So we basically bought five acres, called the ‘Treehouse Guys’ back, and told them we had a place to put them.”

62 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

The treehouses would be built on cypress trees, which was new territory for The Treehouse Guys, according to Smithwick.

“After Garnier visited us and returned home, he wrote us back and said, ‘If you all are serious about us building, which you appear to be, write me a paragraph of what the project is and so-on, and I’ll pitch it to the TV company that does our show to see if they’ll pay us to do the building,’” Smithwick said.

The TV company agreed to do the project, and the building process began.

“We had to get in touch with Sawyer Marine from Chocowinity to help us build a boardwalk so people could get back there.

So we got that taken care of next. From there, it was all about promoting them,” Smithwick continued.

The first treehouse was completed in February of 2006, and they opened in March of 2007.

“It took so long to open because we didn’t include a bathroom,” Smithwick said. “So, we had to wait until we could get them. … It took a pile of money, some senators, and representatives (to help us out) with them. We finally got them up and people have been piling up in there ever since.”

The treehouses were temporarily closed due to the COVID-19 virus, but they have since reopened and are taking reservations.

“We have been doing sanitation after each guest and all that sort of stuff, but people have been bugging me telling me, ‘I’m just ready to get back there,’” Smithwick said.

For all Cashie River Treehouses rental information, contact Billy Smithwick at 252-724-0994. The treehouses are $65 per night, tax included. ⋇

DESTINATION: CASHIE RIVER TREEHOUSES LOCATION: WINDSOR, NC ADDRESS: 400 ELM ST. DISTANCE: 35 MILES

Xyz

TIME: 40 MINUTES

JULY/AUGUST 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 63

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WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON

THE HEART AND SOUL OF AN IDYLLIC RIVER TOWN

W

WRITTEN BY KEITH MASON

ashington is in my blood. I was born at the old Fowle Memorial Hospital, where the Washington Fire Department’s Station No. 1 now stands. My grandmother was a nurse there, and my mother was from Washington. She married my dad, who was from Bath, and I grew up in the Gaylord’s Bay community and went to school in Bath.

I loved growing up in the country, but my mother worked at Rumley Motor Supplies on the corner of Third and Market in Washington, so in the summertime, my brother and I rode “to town” with her quite frequently to spend the day with our “Granny” and avail ourselves of all the amenities that the “big city” (compared to Bath) offered.

We could easily walk downtown from Granny’s house on East Fourth Street to “the dime stores,” McLellan’s and Woolworth’s, or to Welch’s Drugstore for a soda, and maybe even stop in at Jimmy’s Newsstand and pick up the latest “Superman” or “Teen Titans” comic book for 12 cents to entertain us the rest of the morning.

I was always mesmerized by the variety of shops downtown and all the diversions they offered. Whether it was browsing the classics and new bestsellers at Small’s Book Store, or looking at the cool drum sets and electric guitars at Jones-Potts Music Store, or admiring the expensive, glittering diamond rings and watches at Stewart’s Jewelry Store or Guy T. Swindell Jewelers, there was a whole world of neat things at my disposal. We also spent many happy Saturday afternoons at the Turnage Theatre, and I especially remember seeing my first James Bond flicks, a double feature of “From Russia With Love” and “Thunderball” there with my brother and some other friends. In short, Washington was a great little town for a young kid coming of age in the ’60s.

Shortly after graduating from the UNC Law School in 1982, I moved to Washington to work as an assistant district attorney and have lived here ever since. A few years later, I met my wife, Doogie, who was a local girl, 66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020

married her and began to raise my own family in the same town that had nurtured me. I enjoyed introducing my boys to the pleasures that our small town offered, such as ice cream from Scoops or a barbecue and slaw sandwich from The Dairy Palace. My mother became their “Granny” and helped them discover the inexpensive treasures that were hiding in plain sight.

Eventually, I left the DA’s office and opened my own law firm on East Second Street before later moving to Market Street. My mother’s boss, Henry Rumley, showed me through his example, how to be a good boss, but I guess you’d have to ask some of the people who have worked for me over the years how well I paid attention and learned from him. I genuinely enjoyed the small-town law practice that allowed me to be able to take lunch to my wife and kids at the Washington Swim Club so they could show me how “Little” Jimmy Walker (before he became our dentist) had taught them to swim, or how Chris Francisco had showed them how to do a back flip off the diving board.

It was my good fortune to interact with such colorful and notable characters as the former Register of Deeds, my cousin, John Morgan, former Clerk of Superior Court Tom Payne, Jesse and Peggy Rawls at NCDMV and Beaufort County Tax Collector Bobby Parker. Most of my clients were either friends of mine, or they became my friends because they were my clients. Like Atticus Finch, I tried to look for the best in everyone and enjoy each day that I was on this journey with them.

Some of those old familiar places have long since left the downtown streetscape, and some of the memorable people have also left us, but the zeitgeist of those icons can still be felt today if you just stop in and talk to Billy Jefferson at Big Bargain Supply or Pat Lewis at South Market Antiques, or chat with the ladies on the assembly line at Bill’s Hot Dogs. Bill Mac Alligood will still take you to work after you drop your car off for a new set of tires, and Randy Walker will be happy to discuss local politics with you while you pick out your new carpet or laminated flooring.

Washington is, and always has been, a great little town, but when you really think about it, it’s the relationships, and the genuine way that people take care of each other, through good times and lean times, that really make up the heart and soul of this beautiful, idyllic river town, and make me proud to call Washington home. ⋇

COVID-19 Let’s Stop the Spread As the economy begins to reopen, it’s important we continue to stand up for eastern North Carolina and work together to stop the spread of COVID-19. Your health – and the health of your loved ones – depends on it.

Stay home as much as possible

Avoid large gatherings

Wash your hands often

Wear a mask when out

Practice social distancing

We are here for you Vidant has taken steps to provide you and your family with a safe environment. It’s important not to delay care. This includes emergency visits or treatment for other health conditions. Talk to your doctor if you have questions about scheduling a surgery or procedure.

Not feeling well?

Call our Community COVID-19 Helpline at 252-847-8000 or see a doctor 24/7 by visiting VidantNow.com.

Help flatten the curve and stop the spread.

For more information visit

VidantHealth.com/StayHome

68 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE JULY/AUGUST 2020