Washington the Magazine March/April 2020

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GAME ON Arena polo a horse-lovers’ hit at Bath Creek Stables

MARCH/APRIL 2020 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 1

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MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 3

In this issue

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS GOOD READS A NOVEL IDEA: 30 Local writers share their favorite books for booklovers hoping to discover their next good read.

30 POLO GROUNDS 34

GAME ON: A challenge between young and “old” riders spurs polo debut in Bath.

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 10 24 50 54 56 58 60 64 66

Publisher’s Note The Scene What's in Store What’s to Eat Dining Guide Wine Column Cast a Line Travel & Leisure Calendar Why I Love Washington

34 MAKING MUSIC 42

UNBROKEN CIRCLE: Beaufort County Traditional Music Association jams inspire the musician in everyone.

42 ANCIENT HISTORY 46

46 4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

NATIVE PEOPLE: Before English settlement, a sophisticated Native American population called the shores of the Pamlico and Pungo home.

ON THE COVER Arena polo made a 2019 debut in Beaufort County at Bath Creek Stables. Here, Northside High school junior Kathleen Slade and her horse, Darcy, maneuver around opponents to get a clear shot at the ball. To read about how polo got its start and participation is growing, drawing riders from across eastern North Carolina, see page 34. (Ashley Vansant)

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 5

A NOTE FROM ASHLEY

THE HIDDEN TREASURES OF HOME

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pring is an exciting time in eastern North Carolina. As the weather warms, trees bud and flowers bloom across the Coastal Plain, the beauty of the region is plain to see.

But there are many things here that aren’t as obvious as daffodils and azaleas swaying in a brisk, spring breeze. They might take a bit of discovering.

In this issue of Washington The Magazine, we’ve explored some hidden treasures that are right here at home.

The thunder of horses’ hooves, the crack of a mallet, the yell of “Goal!” to the cheers of spectators are not sounds you’d expect to hear in Beaufort County. But that’s exactly what you’ll experience on the first Sunday of every month at Bath Creek Stables. Learn how a challenge among local riders, young and “old,” launched these exciting arena polo matches that now draw participants from across eastern North Carolina on page 34.

Beaufort County has its share of local landmarks, the structures and sights that create a sense of place. The landscape and those landmarks looked a lot different compared to those 16th-century English explorers found on their first foray into the New World, where they encountered the sophisticated Native American people who once populated the places so familiar to us today. Read about Beaufort County’s Native American history on page 46.

For members of the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association, music is not a solitary activity. It’s a reason to gather and share songs and traditions, many passed down from one generation to the next. For 12 years, BCTMA has given budding and experienced musicians alike the opportunity to sing and play, starting a new tradition where everyone’s welcome to join in. Learn more about their “unbroken circle” on page 42.

Avid fishermen likely know about the annual shad migration that happens right in our backyard, as two species — American and hickory — make their way from the Atlantic, up the Tar-Pamlico to their freshwater spawning grounds on the Tar between Rocky Mount and Tarboro. On page 58, Capt. Richard Andrews encourages fishermen to head out with some light spinning gear and a fly rod to experience the spring shad run for themselves.

From the novelty of watching polo match to a reason to pick up an instrument for the first time, we hope the March/April issue of Washington The Magazine inspires you to get out enjoy spring in Beaufort County.

Ashley Vansant, Publisher We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@

Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine.

6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Matt Debnam Vail Stewart Rumley Mitchell Thomas Contributors Richard Andrews Beaufort County Cooperative Extension Marni Graff Sherri Hollister Michelle Hooper Eileen Lettick Meredith Loughlin Mary Mehlich Attila Nemecz Kim Riggs Jonathan Russell Michael Worthington Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Cecilia Prokos Amy Whitaker Scott Williamson Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2019, Washington Newsmedia, LLC.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 7

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THE SCENE PICKIN’ ON THE PUNGO Picking and grinning was the name of the game Jan. 25 at the Wilkinson Center in Belhaven, as Arts of the Pamlico and the Belhaven Community Chamber of Commerce joined forces to present Belhaven’s inagural Pickin’ on the Pungo Bluegrass Festival.

Featuring a lineup of some of the best bluegrass musicians east of I-95 and beyond, the event was jam-packed with an all-day line up of performances, ranging from old hands to some of the area’s youngest players.

Rick and Jennifer Yost

Allison Osborne, Gracie Osborne, Josh Williams

Dawn Pooser, Harley Wallace, Lydia Harris, Edith Slagen

10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Tom and Cheryl Waite, Josiah Sheffield, Johnny Smith, Jacob Sheffield

Sue Radcliffe and Deb Sparrow

Stacey Brothers, Sadie Brothers, Julia Osborne

Mark and Michel Gnagy

Denis and Cindy Coker

Mike Ullrich, Robery Ullrich

Cecilia Pair

Debra Torrence, Pete Boettger, Diana Lambeth

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11

THE SCENE DELTA WATERFOWL BANQUET Jan. 18 marked a milestone for the Eastern North Carolina Chapter of Delta Waterfowl, as the waterfowl conservation group held its inaugural banquet at the Washington Civic Center. Known as the Duck Hunters Organization, Delta Waterfowl works to help grow duck populations, conserve habitats and research trends that impact waterfowl populations. (Photos by Michelle Hooper)

Suzanne and Tyler Watkins

Rhett and Ashley Woolard

Donna Coats, Missy Cayton

12 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Tim Mclawhorn, Darrell Cayton Jr.

Hayley Dwyer, Tim Harris

Carmen Folk, Joannie Kellum

David Gossett, Neil Woolard

Aaron Cowart, Nathan McCoy, Robert Pitchford

Glen and Gennia Wetherington

Blake and Samantha Boyette, Jennifer and Ethan Williams, Justin Britt, Seth Hines, Jeremy Bowen

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13

Emily Hester, April Sadler, Lindsay Harris

Angela and Kevin Trentham

Amanda and Elli Bramble

Brian McCoy, Lindsey Duke, Brad Cumstom, Brad Harris, Chris Toppings, Chris Williams

14 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

DeWayne and Joannie Kellum, Daniel and Carmen Folk, Emily Hester, April Sadler, Scott Harris, Lindsay Harris

Cody Lowe, Ray Mclawhorn, Justin Allen, Henry Stancill, Dennis Wiggins, Landon Lewis, Jacob Perry

Jessica Sawyer, David Russell

Zac Barres, Jim Barras, Justin Adcock MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 15

THE SCENE BCCC MLK DAY CELEBRATION Honoring the life and works of Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. on the day of his birth, Beaufort County Community College held a special program Jan. 20. Featuring words from Pastor Russell Wilkins and a performance from the St. John’s Church of Christ — Disciples of Christ Ensemble, the event brought together a diverse assortment of Beaufort County residents to celebrate a man who sought to improve the lives of all Americans. (Photos by Attila Nemecz)

Georgia Smallwood, James Smallwood

Shirley Roberson, Trina Cobb, Georgette Redman, Angela Ross

Geoffrey Egerton, Theresa Edwards

Belinda Washington, Mitch St. Clair, Amy Sasnett

James McIntyre, Russell Wilkins, Rosa Wilkins, Joneice Carroll

16 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Dwayne Jackson, Lena Smallwood

Cornell McGill, Yvette McGill

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17

THE SCENE MARDI GRAS GALA Arts of the Pamlico held its annual fundraising gala Jan. 18 at the Washington Yacht & Country Club. Revelers turned out in their most festive Mardi Gras apparel to celebrate the Mardi Gras season and the work done to restore AOP’s home, the Turnage Theatre, and ongoing efforts to provide artistic experiences to Beaufort and Washington counties. Featuring food, music and great revelry, the event drew a large crowd of masked arts supporters dressed in their finery of green, gold and purple, the traditional Mardi Gras colors. AOP is home to art exhibits and community and children’s theater, costume and ceramics workshops, provides meeting space for musicians, writers, crafters and language groups, in addition to hosting comedy, live music and dance events and productions by East Carolina University’s School of Theatre and Dance. For more information, visit artsofthepamlico.org or call 252-946-2504. (Photos by Meredith Loughlin)

Susan and Mack Simpson

Gale Watson and Paul Hager

18 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Rosie and Warren Smith

Lisa Hodges, Virginia Finnerty, Brittany Lane, Jayne Meisell, Garleen Woolard, Tina Leggett, Lou Hodges

Barbara and Charles Smith

Joe Sizemore’s Big Easy Party Band

Brittany Lane, Desmond Wilson

Jay Sullivan, Rachel Midgette

Will and Thad Aley

Janene Lyles and Christian Senn

Justin and Erica Pate

Morgan Potts, Emily Rebert, Maggie Gregg

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 19

B.J. Bowen

Chuck and Mia Williama

Sonia Ward and William Kenner

Vann and Colleen Knight

Scot Craigie and Sim Hodges

Liz and John Stallings

20 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Roland and Debbie Wyman

Pam Anderson and Kat Bryan

Seth and Amanda Laughlin

Virginia Finnerty and Alan Mobley

Rachel Isaac and Zachary Sutton

Laura and Kevin Hardy

Lexie and Kevin Buck

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21

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A piece of

Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED

a.

Here comes Peter Cottontail

c.

b.

24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

H o p i n to t h e E a s te r season with a beautiful carrot wreath from L & W Creations, located in the Washington Harbor District Market (a.) for $60. Pair it with a charming rabbit that be a part of your décor all year long (b.) $55. Add some spring greenery (c.) for $10.99. Find the rabbit and greenery at Cottage J u n k i e s i n d ow n tow n Washington.

Spring Blossoms We l c o m e s p r i n g w i t h beautiful floral decorations from the Wander Co. Find one-of-a-kind wall paintings (d.) $38. Greet the season with a hand-painted “Hello Spring” sign (e.) $15. Or add garden-like accents with floral wooden bowls (f.) $10.

d.

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Floral jewels g.

Rustic and floral make the perfect combination in springtime jewelry. Pick from an array of different combinations and styles. Find an oval pendant (i.) for $24 or circular embroidered pendant necklaces (j.) for $36 at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

Hometown maps The Pamlico Paper Co., located in the Washington Harbor District Market, sells watercolor prints of Beaufort County towns that will make the perfect gift or show your pride in your hometown. Map out your favorite places and the memories made there for all time (g.) $28. Add some color to your wardrobe with colorful ribbons (h.) $10.95.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25

Bee happy With the season come rain then flowers, a embracing the beauty of spring in a bracelet. (k.) $18.50. Find this welcome to spring at the Wander Co.

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New born and new blooms n.

Spring is nature’s way of bringing new life to the world. Welcome the new family and friends with handmade baby ring (l.), $15, and burping cloth (m.) $7. Find more patterns at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

Comfy and cozy

o. p.

Hopping down the trail, onto a cozy chair, a scene of rabbits and blooms makes for perfect seasonal dĂŠcor (n.) $34.95. A scent for the season, Bunny Hallow soap is made with Shea butter (o.) $12.95. Make a toast to spring with a Rewined candle, now made in a Prosecco scent (p.) $28. Find these products at Cottage Junkies in downtown Washington

q. r.

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Sunny, bright and cute Find your colorful springtime wardrobe at Southern Grace Boutique in this fuchsia top (q.) $24, capri jeans (s.) $34 and yellow, beaded earrings (r.) $12.

Heart of the season Tulips and a chevron pattern welcome friends to your home and to the season. Find this wreath at L & W Creations, located in the Washington Harbor District Market (t.) $65. Prove your heart will always be in North Carolina with signs like this at Pamlico Paper Co., also located in the Washington Harbor District Market (u.) $20.

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A NOVEL IDEA 30 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Local writers reveal their all-time favorite books

F

STORY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

or booklovers, there’s nothing better than curling up with a good book on a cold winter’s night or cracking open a muchawaited novel on the beach or in the poolside shade when summer vacation rolls around.

For dedicated readers, sometimes finding the time to sit down to read can be challenging, as is hunting down a book that’s going to be worth the time to read it. That’s why we’ve enlisted a few readers to tell us about their all-time favorite books — the ones they return to time and again; the ones that inspired or influenced their lives. The following recommendations come from folks who are not only readers, but writers. Each is a member of Pamlico Writers’ Group, which meets monthly at Arts of the Pamlico’s Turnage Theatre for discussion, readings and gentle critiques. They are authors in their own right.

If you’re an avid reader in search of the next great book, take a look at some of these local authors’ picks. You just might find your next literary favorite on this list. ⋇

BIRD: Y B D R I “B TIONS C U R T S N SOME I D LIFE” N A G N ITI mott’s Anne La ON WR d a e r r e and ev

ou’ve n Writing ions on er and y t it c r u r w t s a h a place me In If you’re olds suc h Bird: So y k b o o d b ir that I this led “B his book . I think t t u book tit g o in g d a in s o. More. t after re u’re mis was righ Life,” yo a book. N it e e it s r u w a o c t ed rlined, art be ays want e. I unde lw m in my he a r e fo ’v e u rc ins with okay, yo riving fo the marg decided, as that d in w e t k o o r o w b nd les the This terming f pages, a o in Excuses. s r ly e r n e r v o a cle er the c tructing Lamott folded ov life cons f own life. o y y m h n p o a o t ilos true d ions h her ph voice is connect it r w e H g . in e id ning s of writ ingful gu elf retur n s a y e m element m d d n an Bird” I fi a good umorous “Bird by just need warm, h r is o , It y . g d r li e e is so riting en her advic fuel my w e r o t d e ettick ut.

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by Betty S Grows in mith. For a strong fe m e , re ading a bo male chara ok about cter with e aunts, the qually stro ir suffering n g m o ther and and triump believe this hs, gave m is the first b e courage. I ook that ma The story de me want written in to b e a writer.

1943, take timeless as s place in well as histo 1 9 1 2 but feels ric. It is a with me thro story that ughout my h a s remained adult life. It but not beli is about gro eving you a w ing up poor re poor. Th puts into g e effort Fra iving her c n c ie ’s mother h ildren a be as many pa tter life is st rents, espe il l seen today cially moth their familie ers, struggle s. Like man to p rovide for y immigran the Americ t families, th an dream a e y dreamed nd with ha they saw th rd work an at dream co d a little lu me true, at ck, least for so me of them .

Sherri Holl ister

HARPER C

OLLINS

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31

“THE MURD ER OF ROGER ACK ROYD” It was 1962, an d I was a 12-yea r-old voraciou My Saturday s reader. library visit fo u n d me walking h an armload ome with of fresh boo ks. That day breezed thro , knowing I’ ugh Nancy D d re w, Cherry Am The Hardy Boy es and even s years earlie r, the libraria I’d read any bo n asked me if oks by an Engl ish writer nam Christie. “Th ed Agatha e Murder of R oger Ackroyd off, and I was ” st arted me transported to a small English the percepti village and ve machinatio ns of Jane M planted the id ar p le. It also ea that this w as the kind of to write. book I wanted Decades later, Christie’s book s are only ou Shakespeare’ tsold by s works and th e Bible, I’m w seventh myste or ki n g on my ry — and driv e a Mini Coope Marple. r named Miss Marni Graff

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“SNOWMAN: THE CHAMPION” A F O Y R O T S E U R T ary school, but we when I was in element rs fai ok bo ve ha n’t We did True Story of form. “Snowman: The er ad Re ly ek We a off s could order book d a pony. Snowman k my fancy because I ha too ly lar cu rti pa n” pio t to auction a Cham untry before he was sen co ish Am in rse ho ess had been a harn a truck headed for bought him for $80 off yer Le de rry Ha y. ur inj after an n to National ined and rode Snowma tra en th , 56 19 in se the slaughterhou t the story is not s in 1958 and 1959. Bu hip ns pio am Ch ing mp Open Ju him. Harry and the family that loved t ou ab s it’ n; ma ow t really about Sn ands in 1950 with jus erica from the Netherl Am to d ate igr e em th a Johann d been sponsored by tle bit of cash. They ha some suitcases and lit d been cared for by his n soldier whose grave ha ca eri Am II WW a of r mothe improvements hard work and gradual the s ibe scr de ok bo e wife’s family. Th ren. Harry became the a family of eight child sed rai ey th as es liv m on Long in their ool, bought a small far sch ing ard bo ls’ gir a of stable manager that with hard work The story demonstrates s. rse ho d ine tra d an Island, humble origins. succeed despite their n and talent, people can Michael Worthingto SIMON & SCHUSTER 32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

PENGUIN RANDOM

HOUSE

“THE OUTSIDERS” The first glimmer of interest I can remember having in a book at a young age was when our class read “The Outsiders” by S. E. Hinton.

Every day in class, I looked forward to hearing and reading more as we delved deeper into the chapters. The excitement and emotion that clung to the words had me holding my breath one minute and wiping a stray tear the next.

I was right there with the characters through the peaks and valleys of the plot. I thought it was a requirement for books to be boring, but I quickly learned just how captivating they can actually be.

I’m thankful that I found the love of reading through school. I’m blessed that the love of reading one day led to writing. After years of writing in notebooks, on envelopes, napkins, or anything that would hold ink, I can proudly say, “I am a writer.” I write contemporary romance and have one nonfiction project in progress.

As a member and chairperson of the Pamlico Writers’ Group, I hope to encourage others to exercise their creative minds, and to hear them proudly say, “I am a writer.”

Kim Riggs

Kathleen Slade, astride her horse Darcy, waits for an arena polo match to begin at Bath Creek Stables.

34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

CHALLENGE

ACCEPTED We’re ready to beat them. We tell them they’re going to see the back of our horses going by.

They’re going down.

KATHLEEN SLADE

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35

Dana Carlough takes a swing, moving the ball downfield toward the opposing team’s goal.

36 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Riders and their mounts scramble to gain possession of the ball.

A friendly wager brings polo to Beaufort County STORY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOS BY ASHLEY VANSANT

I

t started in a barn — smack talk about who was a better rider between local equestrians Jim Preston, owner of Bath Creek Stables, and Kathleen Slade, Northside junior and 2017 North Carolina 4-H Horse Show junior grand champion.

“She started talking junk to me, saying, ‘Old guys can’t ride,’” Preston laughed. “She challenged me to a barrel race. I said, ‘There’s no way I can beat you in a barrel race. You’ve got the fastest horse around.’”

It was after a bit of debate that the two came up with an unusual compromise — or at least unusual for eastern North Carolina.

They would settle the issue with a game of polo.

“My job was to find four ‘old guys’ to play teenagers, so I went and found four old guys, and she went and found teenagers,” Preston said.

The challenge was on. They found their teams and practiced a few times, then set a date for the match. On the day of the showdown, they MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37

Teammates Dr. Mark Beamer (left) and Dal Boyd (right) go on the offensive as Beamer connects and sends the ball flying across the field of play.

had a bit of a surprise in store.

“Dad-gummit, we had 50 people show up,” Preston laughed.

“I don’t know where they all came from.”

“I was actually very surprised at our first match at how many random people came out,” Slade said.

After four time periods, or chukkas, the score was tied in that first game. The players decided on a shoot-out for bragging rights. While Preston claims the first shot from the girls was four inches short of the goal, Slade disagrees.

“We really won, but they say they won,” she said.

The girls’ team and the “old guys” team have since traded wins back and forth during matches held on the first Sunday of the month, depending on weather and field conditions. The polo matches have since gathered a following, and more players are 38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

joining in, with teams trailering their horses in from Greenville and Edenton; New Bern also is trying to get a team together, according to Preston.

“It’s kind of building. It’s just evolving and building, and it just kind of took off,” Preston said. “Last game, we had 15 horses out here playing — probably more than that because some people bring two horses.”

They’ve also made the matches more official, adding three umpires, a timekeeper and a scorekeeper to the event, and teammates are required to wear the same colors as identifiers.

“When you’re in the game, it’s such fast action, you don’t know who’s who unless you’re wearing the same-color shirt,” Preston said.

From there, the Bath Creek games differ from traditional

Kathleen Slade wraps her horse’s front legs (above left) and Amelia Whitfield bridles her horse (above right) in preparation for a match. David Burbage watches the action in the polo arena with his horse Buggsy as they await their turn on the field.

polo. They play arena polo, an enclosed space with a smaller field of dirt or sand, rather than on an immense grassy field. These polo players don’t knock around a hard ball, but a soft one, described as a small soccer ball. It was the softer concept of polo that tempted riders who’d never played the game before to give it a try, Preston said.

“Most of them had watched it on TV and said, ‘I’m not doing that. It’s too dangerous!’ But when I came across this arena polo thing, I said, ‘Man, we can do that,’” Preston said. “We’re playing in western saddles. We do make everyone wear helmets, and horses’ front legs and tails are wrapped to protect the horses from the mallet.”

They’ve also got two paces for the games: some matches move at a fast pace, but for those testing their polo skills and mounts, other matches don’t go beyond a walk or trot. Preston said the horse breed doesn’t seem to matter when it comes to polo — what matters is whether or not a horse will put up with the swing of the mallet and close contact with other horses.

“Horses out here, they’ve never been exposed to this kind of stuff, so you’ve got to work with the horse to see if it’ll tolerate it,” Preston said. “I have a Morgan-Percheron cross; he’s got a lot of fire. You don’t want big horses because you want to be able to hit the ball. … He’ll last about one chukka and then he’s had enough. A 15-hand horse is about ideal.

We get a lot of cutting horses, because they’re used MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39

to going into herds; used to a rope being swung around its head.”

While Slade’s horse Classy is ideal for barrel racing, which Slade has been doing since she was 12 years old, she said on polo days, Darcy is the one she rides into the arena.

“She’s just more of a levelheaded horse; she’s more of a ranch horse,” Slade said.

With the number of spectators showing up for the polo matches, Slade said they’re thinking about charging a small attendance fee, the proceeds of which will be donated to the local 4-H. As the weather warms up, they expect more participation both on the field and on the sidelines — and more games, all in the name of a good time and good competition.

“It’s the best organized chaos I’ve ever gotten into, Preston laughed. “It’s just a lot of fun.”

Meanwhile, the smack talk will continue between the girls and the old guys.

“We’re ready to beat them. We tell them they’re going to see the back of our horses going by,” Slade laughed. “They’re going down.” ⋇ 40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Mark Beamer connects as the opposition closes in.

Taylor Sparrow preps for his first match after getting a lesson in wrapping his mount’s legs for protection against a swinging mallet.

Serving as referee, Jim Preston, owner of Bath Creek Stables, keeps a close eye on the action on the field as scorekeeper Kay Williams (right) and a spectator look on.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 41

42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Pickers of all styles and experiences bring a unique sound to the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association’s weekly jams at the Turnage Theatre. At the end of every jam, the group always closes with the traditional tune, “May the Circle be Unbroken.”

May the circle be

UNBROKEN

WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOGRAPHY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY AND MATT DEBNAM

E

very week, the sounds of strings and uplifted voices reverberate through the gallery of the Turnage Theatre.

Within, a group of musicians, each carrying an instrument and a voice all their own, join in harmony to make a joyful sound.

Together they form a circle called the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. Jamming each week, the group’s members are keeping traditional music alive in eastern North Carolina.

While the BCTMA has grown and evolved throughout the years, the leadership and welcoming attitude of its founding members have helped keep that circle strong. With a solid foundation laid, and a bright future ahead, this circle may yet be unbroken for years to come.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43

Coming from a musical family, Rob Cuthrell got his first instrument, a ukulele, in about the third grade.

Between singing in church, watching his dad play and learning to pick at home, playing music with others became a big part of his life. Years later, that same sense of community found a voice when he founded the BCTMA. “I went and talked with Joey Toler, who was then executive director of the Beaufort County Arts Council,” Cuthrell recalled. “I told him ‘I like to sit on the back porch, play songs and sing, and sometimes I get together with other people, but I think there are probably a lot of other folks in the area that would like to do that.’”

With the support of the Arts Council, the BCTMA had its first jam in 2008, under an oak tree on the corner of Gladden and Main streets. Within a year, the group held its inaugural traditional music festival, and was traveling Beaufort County and beyond. All the while, the circle has been the heart of the group.

“The very beginning concept of the group was to have an opportunity for people that like to play to get together and have fun playing together,” Cuthrell said. “The jams have continued that original vision for 12 years now.”

ROB CUTHRELL SIDNEY AND DELORES MOORE Also among those who first gathered around that oak tree on Gladden Street with Cuthrell, Sidney Moore has been picking his guitar with the BCTMA for more than a decade.

He’d inherited a love for singing from his mother and spent his teenage years playing guitar, but hung it up for a while when he and his wife, Delores, began raising their children. But as the kids grew, they began to follow in their dad’s footsteps, learning to play instruments of their own.

When the BCTMA got started, Sidney played while Delores supported from the sidelines — selling tickets, T-shirts and whatever needed to be sold. About six years ago, she decided to become part of the circle, learning to play the mandolin.

“I like to see someone come in, and they sit around and listen, and then they get in the group, and the next thing you know, they’re singing,” Delores Moore said. “It’s amazing to watch them progress and get comfortable enough to do that.”

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At about 10 years old, Duane Harris learned the C, G and D chords from his dad and took off as a musician. Growing up in northeastern Beaufort County, he and Cuthrell have been playing together for decades.

“Our dads and other men in the community would get together on Friday and Saturday nights and play music together,” Harris recalled. “We played music together and play music together still.”

When Cuthrell decided to put the BCTMA together, Harris was right there with him. In that time, he’s seen the group grow and change and has also grown as a musician himself.

“It really meshes together well,” Harris said of the group. “You learn to play together with people. You learn different music.”

Whether playing old time tunes or bringing it up to the 1970s with songs from the Eagles and Neil Diamond, Harris says he enjoys the variety of tunes the group offers, along with the feeling of camaraderie that comes with the circle.

“You’re just sitting there with your friends,” Harris said. “If you’re not there, you’re missed.”

LINDA BOYER

DUANE HARRIS Today, Linda Boyer is something of the matriarch of the BCTMA. She serves as the organization’s president and a welcoming face for old hands and newcomers alike.

Starting with a baritone ukulele at 13, Boyer sang in the church choir, but fell off as an adult. It wasn’t until she had kids of her own that she picked it up again.

“My husband gave me a banjo, and I started playing to the children,” Boyer said. “That’s when I picked up the musical instruments again. I would go to the nurseries and elementary schools and play for the children.”

After seeing an ad in the Washington Daily News, Boyer jumped right in with the BCTMA. In joining the group, she found a new way to play and new friends in the process.

“It’s just magic really,” She said.

“When you love music and you love to sing and you love to play with other people, then you all the sudden have other people to play with, it’s very fulfilling.”

The BCTMA holds weekly jams from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. Thursdays and 10 a.m to noon Saturdays. Expert pickers and beginners are welcome. The BCTMA will hold its 12th-Annual BOCO Traditional Music Festival on April 25, from 1 to 6 p.m. at the Turnage Theatre. More information, along with recordings of the group, can be found at www.BCTMA.org.⋇ MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 45

While the villages the English first found on the shores of the Pamlico and Pungo are long gone, archeological evidence dating to the Colonial Era gives some clues as to how their decendents lived their lives. This stone axe is among the North Carolina Estuarium’s collection of Native American artifacts. (VAIL STEWART RUMLEY) 46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Precolonial people of the Pungo and Pamlico WRITTEN BY MATT DEBNAM

W

hen the first English explorers arrived in the Pamlico Sound region, they discovered a land already inhabited by sophisticated societies of native people.

These Native American people were members of the Carolina Algonquian language family. Living near the water, these people depended on fishing, hunting and agriculture for sustenance. They had their own social hierarchies and ways of worship.

With the same language, they would travel from village to village, engaging in trade, politics and war when necessary.

Much of our modern day understanding of their way of life comes from an expedition in the summer of 1585, during which explorers under the command of Sir Richard Grenville, a cousin of Sir Walter Raleigh, embarked on a tour of the Pamlico Sound region. Visiting villages like Pomeiooc, Aquascogoc and Secotan in modern day Beaufort and Hyde counties, their goal was to learn the lay of the land in order to establish a permanent military colony, staking an English claim to the New World.

Accompanying the expedition, an English watercolorist and mapmaker, John White, used his brushes to capture images of the Carolina Algonquian and the landscapes they inhabited. White would later be governor of the ill-fated Lost Colony of North Carolina legend.

Another member of that party, a scholar named Thomas Hariot, had partially learned the Algonquian language from Manteo and Wanchese, Roanoke rulers who had accompanied Englishmen across the ocean after an expedition in 1584. Meticulously documenting the people, places and resources the explorers encountered, he would later publish “A Briefe and True Report of the Newfound Land of Virginia.”

Accompanying that publication, which served as an argument for further colonization, the engravings of Theodore De Bry made White’s maps and watercolors available on a larger scale. Prints of some of those engravings, accompanied by Hariot’s words, now reside at the Bath State Historic Site.

Though somewhat distorted through English eyes and ambitions, these works together offer the earliest pictures of Native American life in the region. The settlements that follow were a part of the Secotan Nation, and although their exact locations are today unknown, it is certain they once called this area home.

PAMLICO The name of the Pamlico River is derived from the Pomouik people (not to be confused with Pomeiooc) who lived on its southern shores. A smallpox epidemic in 1696 nearly destroyed the tribe and those who remained fought alongside the Tuscarora against English colonists in the early 1700s. Those who survived may have been incorporated or enslaved by the Tuscarora.

PUNGO Named for the Machapunga people, who were also known as the Mattamuskeet. After the Tuscarora War (1711-13), the Machapunga were relegated to a reservation bordering Lake Mattamuskeet. In many ways, the Mattamuskeet blended with colonial society, and some families in Hyde County can still trace their lineage to the group.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 47

POMEIOOC

POMEIOOC VILLAGE This watercolor image by John White shows the palisaded village of Pomeiooc, located in present-day Hyde County.

Images and descriptions recorded during the 1585 expedition illuminate the lifestyles of some of Beaufort and Hyde counties’ earliest residents. (THE BRITISH MUSEUM — CREATIVE COMMONS)

Located in present-day Hyde County, the village of Pomeiooc and its inhabitants were the subject of many of John White’s watercolors. Surrounded by a palisade of wooden poles, the village was made up of a variety of long houses with communal gathering space at its center.

De Bry’s image of the village elaborates on White’s painting, incorporating elements from Hariot’s description: “There are but few houses therein, save those which belong to the king and his nobles. On the one side is their temple, separated from the other houses. It is built round, and covered with skin mats, and as it were compassed about with curtains without windows, and hath no light bet by the door. On the other side is the king’s lodging. Their dwellings are built with certain posts fastened together, and covered with mats which they turn up as high as they think good, and so receive in the light and air. Some are also covered with boughs of trees, as every man lusteth or liketh best. They keep their feasts and make good cheer together in the midst of the town as it is described in the picture of Secota. When the town standeth far from the water they dig a great pond, whence they fetch as much water as they need.”

AQUASCOGOC As one drives into present-day Belhaven, a North Carolina Historical Marker bears the word “Aquascogoc,” the name of an Algonquian village that was once situated in the general vicinity of the present-day town.

The marker tells of the first troubles between English colonists and Native Americans living in the Pamlico Sound region, stating that the village of Aquascoc was burned by colonists in 1585.

When Grenville’s expedition arrived at the village, they did not receive a warm welcome and left shortly thereafter.

A missing silver cup, however, led the English to return to the village with accusations of theft.

While the leader of the village promised the cup’s return, the English reacted violently, burning the town, destroying food stores and causing the residents to flee.

But the Aquascogoc would have revenge for the incident. When Grenville’s party left Roanoke the following year, 15

AQUASCOGOC BURNING This engraving by an unknown artist captured the burning of the Secotan village of Aquascogoc many years after the fact. It appears in the 1868 volume “An Illustrated History of the New World.” (WIKIMEDIA COMMONS)

men were left behind to guard England’s claim. Returning in 1587 to establish a second colony at Roanoke, John White

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supposedly found their bones and was told by Manteo that hostile Secotan and Aquascogoc warriors had been responsible.

SECOTAN Located near present-day Bath, the village of Secotan was distinct from the enclosed village of Pomeiooc to the east. Rather, it was an open village, consisting of residences, extensive agricultural fields, spaces for ritual and socialization and an elevated tomb for the deceased.

This village too was the subject of extensive paintings by White and descriptions by Hariot that give clues to the villagers’ way of life.

For one, he took great interest in the town’s agricultural prowess, describing crops of corn, tobacco and pumpkins, as well as “a scaffold whereon they set a cottage like to a round chair wherein they place one to watch, for (deer) would soon devour all their corn.” A river served as the town’s water source.

Likewise, Hariot touches on social life, describing “several broad plots where they meet with their neighbours to celebrate their chief solemn feasts,” as well as a plot “wherein they make a fire at their solemn feasts.” Following the feasts, Hariot says they would gather at (D) to “make merry together.”

Religious life, according to his description, focused on “a round plot where they assemble themselves to make solemn prayers.” A short distance away, “there is a large building wherein are the tombs of their kings and princes.”

Describing the character of the Secotan, Hariot wrote, “These people are void of all covetousness and live cheerfully and at their hearts’ ease. They solemnize their feasts in the night, and therefore they keep very great fires to avoid darkness and to testify their joy.” ⋇

Watercolor prints by John White depict some of the people the expedition encountered, including a Secotan priest, above, and a noblewoman of the Secotan, below. These images were later westernized in prints by Theodore De Bry. (THE BRITISH MUSEUM — CREATIVE COMMONS)

Secotan villagers are pictured feasting in this Theodore De Bry engraving. A number of these engravings, accompanied by descriptions of Thomas Hariot, are housed at the Bath State Historic Site, part of the Gene and Susan Roberts collection. (MATT DEBNAM) MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49

WHAT'S TO EAT

HELLO

FISH TACOS WITH MANGO-AVOCADO SALSA 1 tablespoon ground cumin; ½ teaspoon salt; ½ teaspoon paprika; ½ teaspoon chili powder; 2 garlic cloves, minced; 1 pound mahi mahi fillets; 1 tablespoon olive oil; 1 cup sliced avocado; cup finely chopped peeled ripe mango; ¼ cup chopped green onions; ¼ cup finely chopped red onion; 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro; 1 tablespoon fresh lime juice; 8 (6inch) whole-wheat tortillas (can be substituted for corn tortillas) In a medium bowl, combine avocado, mango, green and red onions, cilantro and lime juice to make salsa. Cover and refrigerate.

Mix together the cumin, salt, paprika, chili powder and garlic 50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

and rub over the fish. Heat a large skillet over medium heat. Add olive oil to a hot pan. Add fish to pan and cook for two minutes on each side or until done. Remove from heat.

Warm tortillas over a hot pan for 30 seconds on each side or until warm. (Or layer tortillas between damp paper towels on a plate and microwave for 30 seconds).

Separate fish into pieces and divide evenly among tortillas.

Top with 2 tablespoons of salsa on each taco. Serves 4.

Serving Size: 2 tacos; ½ cup vegetables; ¼ cup fruits; 481 calories; 43 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams fiber; 28 grams protein; 23 grams fat; 750 mg sodium.

HEALTHY Welcome spring with these seven savory recipes STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

T

ROSEMARY CHILI ALMONDS

here’s a spring in the step as spring approaches. Heavier meals to keep you warm in depths of winter are giving way to lighter fare as the days grower lighter, longer and warmer.

For those who resolved to eat better and create a healthier lifestyle in 2020, these seven recipes are for you! Based on the Mediterranean diet, the North Carolina Cooperative Extension has introduced “Med Instead of Meds,” a way of eating that protects the body from chronic disease such as diabetes, heart disease and more, without sacrificing the joy of a delicious meal. Heavy on fruits and vegetables, fish, poultry and whole grains, the Med Way is lighter fare that won’t bog you down as the sun rises on the new season.

From hearty black bean soup or salmon chowder for the days there’s still a chill in the air to mouth-watering Mahi Mahi tacos accompanied with sweet and savory mango-avocado salsa as the temperatures rise, these seven recipes will satisfy even the most discerning of food-lovers. ⋇

1 tablespoon olive oil; ½ pound (approximately 2 cups) almonds; 3 (3-inch) sprigs of fresh rosemary, leaves removed (can use ½-1 teaspoon dried if you don’t have fresh); 1 teaspoon crushed chili flakes; ½ teaspoon salt Use a large skillet over medium heat. Heat the oil and add the almonds. Stir to coat the almonds.

Add the rosemary leaves, crushed chili flakes and salt. Toss to coat the almonds.

Cook over medium heat stirring almost constantly for 15 minutes. Do not allow the almonds to get too brown. Serves 8.

Serving Size: ¼ cup; 250 calories; 7 grams carbohydrates; 4 grams fiber; 8 grams protein; 23 grams fat; 230 mg sodium.

(Recipes provided courtesy of the Beaufort County Cooperative Extension.)

SALMON CHOWDER 2 tablespoons olive oil; 1 cup finely chopped onion; ½ cup chopped carrot; 1/2 cup chopped celery; ½ teaspoon kosher salt; 1/8 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper; 1½ cups whole milk; 2½ tablespoons all-purpose flour; 1 cup precooked brown and wild rice; 1 (3½ ounce) package smoked salmon, torn into small pieces; 2 tablespoons chopped green onions Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add oil and swirl to coat. Add onion, carrot, celery, salt, and cayenne pepper and sauté for four minutes.

Add 2 cups of water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to

medium and cook eight minutes or until vegetables are tender.

Combine milk and flour in a small bowl, stirring with a whisk.

Add milk mixture to pan and bring to a boil. Cook one minute or until slightly thickened, stirring constantly.

Stir in rice and salmon, and cook for one minute or until thoroughly heated.

Sprinkle evenly with green onions before serving. Serves 4.

Serving Size: 1 cup; ½ cup vegetables; 255 calories; 29 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 11 grams protein; 11 grams fat; 518 mg sodium.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51

BLACK BEAN SOUP 1 teaspoon olive oil; 1 medium onion, chopped; 1 tablespoon ground cumin or chili powder (or combination); 2 (15-ounce) cans black beans, rinsed and drained; 2 cups chicken broth or water; salt and pepper to taste; plain yogurt or low-fat sour cream for topping.

(Canned beans can be high in sodium. Rinse well to remove over a third of the sodium indicated on the label.)

Sauté the onion in olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat.

After two minutes, add the cumin or chili powder. Add one can of beans and broth or water. Cook for four to five minutes on medium heat, stir occasionally. Remove from heat and use a hand blender to puree ingredients or transfer to a blender and puree. Add the second can of beans to the pot and cook over medium heat three to four minutes or until bubbly.

Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Serve topped with yogurt or low-fat sour cream. Serves 6. (*Chef’s note: sautee a tablespoon of chopped chipotle pepper with the cumin/chili powder /onion to give this dish a smoky, spicy taste.)

Serving Size: 1 cup; 160 calories; 27 grams carbohydrates; 11 grams fiber; 11 grams protein; 2 grams fat; 467 mg sodium.

HONEY CITRUS CHICKEN DRUMSTICKS Zest from one orange; juice from one orange (approximately 1/3 cup); zest from one lemon; ¼ cup honey; pinch salt; pinch pepper; ¼ cup olive oil; 1 teaspoon fresh thyme; 6 skinless chicken drumsticks with bone–in Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

Combine all ingredients (except chicken) to make marinade. Separate into two bowls.

Marinate the chicken in one of the bowls of marinade for 15- 20 minutes.

Spread marinated chicken onto foillined baking pan and dispose of bowl of marinade used to marinate chicken.

Bake for 20-25 minutes at 375 degrees.

Once cooked, brush chicken with remaining marinade. Serves 6.

Serving Size: 1 drumstick; 210 calories; 13 grams carbohydrates; 13 grams protein; 12 grams fat; 91 mg sodium.

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CUCUMBER AVOCADO SALAD 1 avocado, diced; 1 English cucumber, peeled and diced; 4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh dill; 12 cherry tomatoes, cut in half; 3 tablespoons white balsamic or white wine vinegar; 1 teaspoon salt.

Mix all ingredients together, using clean hands mix to slightly macerate the avocados. You can do this in a zip top plastic bag or in a bowl. Chill for at least one hour before serving.

Serving Size: 1 cup; 1 cup vegetables; 81 calories; 8 grams carbohydrates; 3 grams fiber; 2 grams protein; 5 grams fat; 591 mg sodium.

MEDITERRANEAN TUNA SALAD 2 (5-ounce) cans of tuna packed in water, drained and flaked; ½ cup minced carrots (approximately 2 carrots); ½ cup minced celery (approximately 2 celery sticks); ½ cup minced yellow bell pepper (approximately 1 small bell pepper – substitute with orange, red or green bell pepper if preferred); ¼ cup minced red onion (substitute with yellow or green onion if preferred); ¼ cup minced olives (substitute with pickles if preferred); 1 tablespoon olive oil; ¼ teaspoon black pepper; 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper (optional); salt to taste (optional) In a medium size bowl combine the carrots, celery, bell pepper, onion, olives, tuna and olive oil.

Season with black pepper, cayenne pepper and salt. Mix well. Serve as a sandwich on whole-grain bread, or on top of salad greens. Serves 4.

Serving size: 1 cup; ¾ cup vegetables; 124 calories; 6 grams carbohydrates; 2 grams fiber; 15 grams protein; 5 grams fat; 559 mg sodium.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 53

DINING GUIDE

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Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.

YOUR LOCAL Bridget Jefferson has been the event coordinator for the Belhaven-Pantego Rotary Dinner-Dance and Auction for 5 years in a row.

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Belhaven 770 W. Main Street 252-943-2149 Or visit us at localfirstbank.com Equal Housing Lender. Member FDIC.

WORD ON WINE

LIGHTER WINES FOR

lighter days ahead

S

WRITTEN BY MARY MEHLICH | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH REED

pring is in the air and, for many wine-lovers, the promise of warmer weather naturally pairs with lighter wine. Here are a few of our favorites to pair with your spring fare.

SAUVIGNON BLANC There are now more varieties of sauvignon blanc than ever before.

Already one of the most popular wines in the U.S., the quality of sauvignon blanc seems to be on an unstoppable upward curve. Try those from South Africa if you’re not familiar with them, and revisit white Bordeaux and other sauvignon-Semillon blends.

Pair your choice with grilled fish and other seafood, goat cheese, asparagus and any dish with more than a sprinkling of coriander and dill.

GRÜNER VELTLINER Grüner Veltliner continues to produce quality wine year after year.

This white wine grape variety is primarily grown in Austria, Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic and is meant to be imbibed when it’s young.

Less demanding than Riesling and more sophisticated than pinot grigio, it’s a favorite of many sommeliers.

Pair Grüner Veltliner with light Asian dishes including Asian-accented salads and noodle dishes and Vietnamese spring rolls.

ALBARIÑO Looking for a white wine to accompany a seafood dinner? You’ve found it with this wine that comes from Galicia, in northwest Spain, and is one of that country’s most celebrated “seafood whites.” A must-order if on the menu at a seafood restaurant.

Pair it with shellfish, fish dishes on the lighter side, summer soups such as gazpacho and tomato salads.

CHABLIS and other unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnays To oak or unoak? If you’re a Chardonnay drinker, you might have noticed that the buttery flavors of an oaked Chardonnay will overwhelm delicate vegetables and seafood — the only exception is if those dishes involve a rich butter sauce. Unlike other Chardonnay wines, Chablis rarely uses oak aging, which results in a higher acidity and leaner, more elegant taste.

You’ll find better quality than ever.

Pair with seafood, poached chicken, creamy sauces, sushi.

PROSECCO Prosecco is utterly charming and much more rounded than Champagne.

Add a slice of peach or a few raspberries for a fabulously fruity glass of bubbly.

Pair Prosecco with panettone or have a glass on its own.

56 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

LIGHT ROSÉ Many rosés now are a bit different from reds when it comes to alcohol and intensity. Though this is a great wine to drink with barbecues, it’s been known to overwhelm more delicate flavors.

Try the lighter, less-full styles from the south of France, especially Provence, or venture down into Spain to rosés from the Rioja and Navarra regions of Spain.

Pairs well with grilled tuna and vegetables with aioli (garlic mayonnaise dressing).

LIGHT LOIRE REDS Loire reds are mostly based on the Cabernet Franc grape, but are more light and fragrant, and can be served cool on a warm day.

Great ones to try are Chinon, Bourgeuil and Saumur-Champigny.

Pair with seared salmon and tuna, grilled chicken, goat cheese.

YOUNG PINOT NOIR It’s bright, intense with pure raspberry fruit, as opposed to the slightly funky notes you can get with Pinot of older vintages. The Marlborough region of New Zealand is a great producer, and Chile, California and Oregon have been known to produce soft, fruity Pinots, as well.

Again, this wine can be served chilled.

Pair it with salads, seared salmon or tuna, or duck.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57

CAST A LINE

Spring THE TIME OF MIGRATIONS

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STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

arch and April in our area mark some of the most fascinating and incredible migrations of the natural world. One of those migrations occurs right here in our own backyard with the migration of American and hickory shad up the Tar River in March and April. The peak of the migration tends to fall around mid-to-late March, but some of the early arrivals are here by late January, and consistent catchable numbers usually show up around mid-February. Shad, like striped bass, are anadromous, which means they spend most of the year living in salt or brackish water and migrate into freshwater river systems to spawn, much like salmon in more northern latitudes.

On the Tar, we have two species of shad: hickory and American (White) .

Each year, they make the long trek in from the Atlantic Ocean (many of the fish that spawn in North Carolina spend much of the year out in the ocean around the Continental Shelf). The area between Rocky Mount and Tarboro is the primary spawning ground for the American shad, and the hickory shad typically prefer to spawn a bit farther downriver than the Americans. Other rivers such as the Neuse and the Roanoke experience similar shad-spawning runs. While the Roanoke hosts a greater quantity of shad, consisting of mostly hickories, the Tar is known for a better variety, with its abundance of mature female white “roe” shad, a highly prized trophy by local shad enthusiasts.

The shad has a prominent position in American history, and some would argue that it led to the founding of our country. Some refer to shad as “The

Richard Andrews holds up a hickory shad he caught with Nathan Edwards from Spring Hope behind him. Shad fishing heats up in late January and extends through early April, but March is the most active time of the year to fish for shad.

Founding Fish,” and there is even a book entitled “The Founding Fish” by John McPhee, which is a very detailed and interesting account covering every detail of the species. Some argue that the great early spring shad run up the Schuylkill River in Virginia in 1778 saved George Washington’s Army at Valley Forge from starvation and subsequently influenced the outcome of the Revolutionary War. If you would like to be a part of history and enjoy the spring shad run in the

58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

Tar River, I encourage you to get out there and experience this magnificent migration. We offer shad trips on the Tar, Neuse and Roanoke rivers, and they are great fun to catch on light spinning gear and 4-6 weight fly rods.

Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com.⋇

TRAVEL & LEISURE

Elizabethan Gardens are BOOMING for spring’s blooms 60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

DESTINATION: ELIZABETHAN GARDENS LOCATION: MANTEO, N.C. DISTANCE: 100 MILES TIME: 1 HOUR 45 MINUTES ADDRESS: 1411 NATIONAL PARK DRIVE

WRITTEN BY MITCHELL THOMAS PHOTOS BY ELIZABETHAN GARDENS

T

he Elizabethan Gardens are sure to brighten up even the gloomiest of days as spring approaches.

Located just along the Outer Banks in Manteo, the gardens are nestled between the Albemarle Sound and Nags Head, within Fort Raleigh National Historic Site on the north end of the Roanoke Island.

The idea of the gardens came about in the 1950s, when Mrs. Charles Cannon, the wife of a North Carolina philanthropist, Mrs. Inglis Fletcher, a noted historian and author, Sir Evelyn Wrench, founder of the English Speaking Union, and Lady Wrench visited the Fort Raleigh National Historic Site and “The Lost Colony” outdoor drama on Roanoke Island.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61

They asked the Garden Club of North Carolina, a nonprofit organization of 17,000 women, to sponsor a 2-acre garden as a permanent memorial to Sir Walter Raleigh’s lost colonists and enhance the value of the area.

The Gardens were formally opened Aug. 18, 1960. During their 51-year existence, they have become some of the most unique and beautiful gardens in America.

While they close every year for the month of February, Carl Curnutte, the executive director of Elizabethan Gardens, explained that it is a maintenance month to prepare the Gardens for the rest of the year.

“We have been doing a lot of special projects in the gardens,” Curnutte said. “Our 16th-century gazebo that’s on the water’s edge was reconstructed due to some erosion. We’re moving that back and enhancing the whole overlook terrace.

We’re doing plantings, getting the gazebo refurbished — so we use February as an opportunity to enhance the Gardens.”

This February, daffodils were already blooming and tulips coming up out at the gardens, due to the unseasonably warm winter in eastern North Carolina “Who knows the blooming season anymore? A lot of things that are blooming now usually don’t happen during this time. It really just depends on the weather. I think that the unseasonably warm temperatures have confused some of the plants into thinking it’s spring,” Curnutte said.

The Gardens host many festivals as well, and the butterfly festival occurs on various dates throughout the month of April.

“We had a huge season last year for our butterfly release,” Curnutte said. “We actually doubled our visitation from last year. We have a new butterfly house with butterfly plants. We do some public releases of the butterflies on the great lawn, and we also have private ones that you can purchase tickets to attend.”

Some butterflies only live for a single day, while others can live three to four weeks, according to Curnutte.

There are also educational workshops and art projects that go on throughout the spring months, as well.

There are so many things to see at Elizabethan Gardens: a birding trail, the large bronze statue of Queen Elizabeth I, the overlook terrace where the waves crash onto the shore, Virginia Dare’s statue, the sunken garden and the vast variety of trees that overhang the gardens — all waiting to be discovered.

“The peace and tranquility of it, the beauty of it all, is incredible. Of course, we’re on the beach, so people come for that, but you come here into this sort of oasis that’s not quite what you expect to find on the East Coast,” Curnutte said. “We got hit really hard by the last hurricane, it did a lot of damage, but we always persevere. It always bounces back.

That’s what is so resilient about nature, it comes back and it multiplies, and that’s why we love spring.” ⋇ 62 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

ADVERTISER INDEX Beaufort County Economic Development

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King Chicken

Beaufort County Schools

3

Marabella 33

Bertie Ambulance Service

8

Mauri E. Alligood - State Farm Insurance

62

Bertie Peanuts

8

Mi Fiesta

54

Beth Wilder - Respess Realty

54

Nan McClendon - The Rich Co.

55

Big Bargain Furniture

5, 27

Norman’s Home Furnishings

22

Bloom Women’s Apparel

27

River Street Networks

22

Carolina Wind Yacht Brokerage

27

Robinson Jewelers

9

Carryout by Chrislyn

54

Rod & Jordan Cantrell - Edward Jones

9

Century 21 Real Estate

8

Ryan Whitford - AssureVest Insurance Group

28

Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty

68

Servpro 54

Cottage Junkies

27

Slade Landscaping

22

Daughtridge Patio

9

Sloan Insurance

27

Dellinger’s Pawn

27

Scott & Stringfellow BB&T

9

Dowry Creek Marina

17

Stewart’s Jewelry Store

7

El Charrito

54

The Rich Company

29

Executive Personnel Group

33

Tideland EMC

59

Feyer Ford

23

United Country Respess Real Estate

8

First Bank Wealth Management

55

Vidant Health Systems

2

Gail Kenefick - Coastal Rivers Realty

54

Washington Funeral Home

28

Greenville Marine & Outdoor

62

Washington Montessori Public Charter School

28

Highwater Social Club

54

Watsi Sutton - Attorney at Law

27

Inner Banks Outfitters

54

Wine & Words ... & Gourmet

27

Jones & McKinney, P.A.

27

67

OUT & ABOUT

CALENDAR MARCH Music Jams Turnage Theatre

Beaufort County Traditional Music Association open jams Thursday nights from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. No fee. For more information, visit www.bctma.org/ or call 252-946-2504, 252-721-1753.

March 3

Costume Workshop Turnage Theatre

6:30 p.m. Join retired East Carolina University School of Theatre and Dance’s costuming director Jeffery Phipps for the History of Costuming for Stage & Theater. $12/$10 cash discount. To register, call 252-946-2504.

March 6

Alive After 5 Caboose Park

5:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m. Enjoy live music, tasty beverages and a fun, casual atmosphere. Water, beer and wine for sale; food trucks; feel free to bring a lawn chair or blanket. Email gwhitlock@ washingtonnc.gov, for more information.

March 7

“The Lion King Kids”

March 13

Washington Comedy Fest

Turnage Theatre

6:30 p.m. Mike Mello headlines Arts of the Pamlico’s 3rd-annual Washington Comedy Fest. Featuring PG-13 comedy 7-8 p.m. and comedy for those 21 and older at 8 p.m. Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

Turnage Theatre

St. Patrick’s Day Event

2 p.m., 6 p.m. Bath Elementary School will present Disney favorite, “The Lion King Kids,” live, onstage at the Turnage. Tickets are $5.

6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Live music by Rivermist.

Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

March 12-15

Habitats and Leprechaun Traps

Hunters Pointe Sporting Clays

10:30 a.m. Explore St. Paddy’s lore and build your own Leprechaun Trap! Call 252948-0000 for reservations.

2020 East Coast Championship 8 a.m. Registration hunterspointenc.com.

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March 14

North Carolina Estuarium

March 12

Night Out with Angels N Camo

Washington Civic Center

5 p.m. Sixth-annual fundraiser to supply outdoor adventures for children battling chronic illness. Dinner, entertainment and auction. Call Lisa Adams at 252-402-6575 for more information.

Senior Dance 7 p.m. Singles and couples over 40 are welcome to come and dance the night away. Admission is $8. 50/50 drawing. Door prizes. No alcohol/so smoking/no children.

Turnage Theatre

Tar Heel Variety Theater

64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

March 17

Costume Workshop Turnage Theatre

6:30 p.m. Join retired East Carolina University School of Theatre and Dance’s costuming director Jeffery Phipps for the Intro to Costuming. $12/$10 cash discount. To register, call 252-946-2504.

March 19

A Bite of History Brown Library

2 p.m. Local history buffs to share interesting bits of Beaufort County’s history. Call 252-946-4300 for more information.

Burlap to Cashmere Turnage Theatre

7:30 p.m. Beaufort County Concert Association presents Burlap to Cashmere, a musical blast from the past drawing from artists such as Simon and Garfunkel, James Taylor and Bob Dylan. For more information, call 252-947-2076.

March 20

Art Walk Downtown Washington

6-8 p.m. Tour downtown galleries and shops hosting new exhibits, special deals and mini-receptions for Art Walkers! Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

March 21

Dance Party Turnage Theatre

7 p.m. USA Dance Chapter 6046 hosts its monthly dance party. Free dance lesson at 7 p.m.; dancing from 8 to 10 p.m. $10 per person; $5 for students.

Swindell Sounds

Swindell Cash Store, Bath 7:30 p.m. The Blounts Creek Blues Band onstage at Bath’s newest gathering place.

Sponsored by Arts of the Pamlico and Coffee Arts. $7/$5 cash discount. 103 S. Main St., Bath.

March 27-29

“The Fantastiks” Turnage Theatre

7 p.m. Singles and couples over 40 are welcome to come and dance the night away. Admission is $8. 50/50 drawing. Door prizes. No alcohol/so smoking/no children.

River Roving Educational River Tours

IC Improv

North Carolina Estuarium

7 p.m. Be prepared to participate in this hilarious improv performance by IC Improv. $7/$5 cash discount. For more information, call 252-946-2504.

April 3

5:30 p.m. Historic Port of Washington quarterly lecture series. Learn about Washington’s maritime history and other facts about North Carolina’s maritime past. Call 252-948-0000 to reserve a seat.

April 16

History Lectures North Carolina Estuarium

Alive After 5 Caboose Park

5:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m. Enjoy live music, tasty beverages and a fun, casual atmosphere. Water, beer and wine for sale; food trucks; feel free to bring a lawn chair or blanket. Email gwhitlock@ washingtonnc.gov, for more information.

April 3-4

2020 Pamlico Writers’ Conference Turnage Theatre

Visit www.pamlicowritersgroup.org for more information about this annual writers’ conference, featuring workshops, readings and poetry competition deciding the Heart of the Pamlico poet laureate.

April 4

5k/10k Race

April 18

Sails & Ales Washington Civic Center

Sails & Ales Beer, Wine & Food Festival.

Breweries and wineries represented, food trucks, vendors, live music and more!

For more information, email gwhitlock@ washingtonnc.gov.

Dance Party Turnage Theatre

7 p.m. USA Dance Chapter 6046 hosts its monthly dance party. Free dance lesson at 7 p.m.; dancing from 8 to 10 p.m. $10 per person; $5 for students.

Festival Park

8 a.m. Beaufort/Hyde Special Olympics Rabbit 5k/10k Race, for more information or to sign up, visit www.runtheeast.com.

Helicopter Easter Egg Drop

APRIL

Downtown Washington

Turnage Theatre

Turnage Theatre

River Roving Educational River Tours.

Free boat tours on the Pamlico River, Wednesdays through Fridays at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m. and Saturdays at 10:30 a.m. Call 252-948-0000 for reservations.

Children must be over 6 years old and accompanied by an adult.

Noon. The most exciting Easter Egg hunt you can find! For ages 12 and under. For more information, contact Erin Ruyle at eruyle@washingtonnc.gov.

Beaufort County Traditional Music Association open jams Thursday nights

Washington Civic Center

April 11

East Carolina University’s Opera Theatre presents “The Fantastiks,” an allegorical story about two neighboring fathers who trick their children, Luisa and Matt, into falling in love by pretending to be in a feud.

Showtimes at 7:30 p.m. March 27; 2 p.m. and 7:30 p.m. March 28; 2 p.m. March 29.

For more information, call 252-946-2504.

Music Jams

Senior Dance

from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. No fee. For more information, visit www.bctma.org/ or call 252-946-2504, 252-721-1753.

Washington-Warren Airport

April 23

‘Celebration of Life’ Banquet Washington Civic Center

6:30 p.m. Annual ‘Celebration of Life’ Banquet, sponsored by the Coastal Pregnancy Center. Call 252-946-8040 for more information.

April 25

BoCO Traditional Music Festival Turnage Theatre

April 9

Spring Fling 4 – 8 p.m. Downtown stores and galleries will be open late for shopping, refreshments, giveaways, special deals and more. Top off the night with dinner downtown!

All day. Arts of the Pamlico’s Turnage Theatre will be alive with music for the annual BoCO Traditional Music Festival.

A lineup of musicians will perform all day capped off by a concert on the Turnage stage. Sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association, www. bctma.org.

MARCH/APRIL 2020 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 65

WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON

Hospitality, kindness and creativity

V

WRITTEN BY JONATHAN RUSSELL | PHOTO BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

isions of life on the bank of the Pamlico River kept us motivated during those crazy weeks of packing and unpacking with our toddlers. In May 2019, my wife and I sold our home to start our new adventure in Washington. As a native of eastern North Carolina, I was familiar with the area and the joys it would bring to our young family.

We quickly discovered our favorite aspect about life in Washington—the people.

The people of Washington are hospitable. As we pulled up to our new home, we were greeted with a beautiful morning view of the river during early summer. On the porch to our “new” historic home, we noticed another greeting waiting for us: a giftbag and welcome card from our neighbors. Within the first 48 hours we had multiple meals

dropped off, offers to babysit the children while we unpacked and an invitation to a Memorial Day potluck.

The people of Washington are kind. We immersed ourselves in the “walkability” of life in Washington, pushing the double stroller to the local Harbor District Market, shops and galleries downtown.

Vendors at the market came to know us and would have our favorite treats ready to go as quick trips are sometimes necessary with toddlers. One time this summer, we even had a neighbor drive my wife and children home after they were caught in an afternoon shower walking back from the Estuarium. We have watched as residents guided visitors to their favorite Washington and Beaufort County destinations or patiently gave directions to lost travelers.

The people of Washington are

66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MARCH/APRIL 2020

creative. The prospect of moving to a city with several active galleries and a performing arts facility such as the Turnage Theatre, was particularly enticing to my wife, an art enthusiast.

We have spent many Art Walk nights talking with artists and observing their phenomenal works. We have even had the opportunity to become artists ourselves. Our daughter has enjoyed several BRAVO! arts enrichment classes which gives her a creative outlet and fun afterschool activities. One of our favorite family memories was strumming along with fellow residents during a ukulele lesson at Festival Park, organized by a local business and community partners.

We love our new life in Washington for many reasons, but the hospitality, kindness and creativity shared by our fellow citizens is by far our most favorite. ⋇

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