Washington the Magazine May/June 2021 by Washington Daily News

TULIPS

OF TERRA CEIA

SUMMER FUN

ON THE RIVER SAVORY SUMMER RECIPES MAY/JUNE 2021 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 1

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In this issue

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS BLACKBEARD IN BATH FACT OR FICTION?: 16 The notorious pirate is known to have spent time in Beaufort County but the real story of his trips along the Pamlico River may surprise you.

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 10 50 56 58 60 66

Publisher’s Note What's in Store What’s to Eat Wine Column Cast a Line Travel & Leisure Why I Love Washington

FAMILY BUSINESS 22

HOLLAND TO NC: Casey, Carl and Mark are the third generation of the Van Staalduinen family to operate Terra Ceia Farms. Follow their grandparents journey from Holland to North Carolina.

HISTORY LESSON 32

A STORY TO TELL: P.S. Jones High School alumni are ready to educate you about the history and significance of “The Complex,” which traces its roots back to Washington Colored Public School.

32 FUN ON THE RIVER 38

38 4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

SPRING INTO SUMMER: As the summer season approaches, the waters of the Pamlico River are warming up and ready to be enjoyed by residents and visitors alike.

ON THE COVER The Terra Ceia Farms tulips are weather dependent and don’t bloom every year, however they are spectacular when they do. Story on page 22. (Van Staalduinen family)

MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 5

A NOTE FROM ASHLEY

An American dream in the fields of Terra Ceia

heirs is a classic American story. A family of immigrants settled in Beaufort County in the early 1940s after leaving Holland for a fresh start in the United States. The Van Staalduinens settled in Pantego and started a farm in a small Dutch enclave to grow flowers. Terra Ceia, a name that would become synonymous with tulips for generations to come, was the birthplace of a family business rooted in hard work and Eastern North Carolina soil. Still today, the Terra Ceia Farms serve loyal customers near and far through its popular mail-order catalog. Take a trip to the fields to take in the renowned tulips of Terra Ceia on page 22. As perhaps the most famous pirate of all time, Blackbeard’s story has been told countless times. The larger-than-life legends are not unknown to Beaufort County residents, thanks to his connections to Eastern North Carolina. Bath, in particular, finds itself at the center of many Blackbeard tales thanks to the pirate’s visits to North Carolina’s oldest town. Step back a few hundred years to separate fact from fiction with a Blackbeard historian on page 16. The halls of the former P.S. Jones High School campus went quiet some time ago, but efforts are underway to preserve the history of the school and its alumni. The school served as the heart of Washington’s Black community in the years before integration. A museum and a park are just a couple of recent initiatives to preserve, celebrate and engage with its history. Explore it on page 32. Warmer weather means fun on the river. Spend a day at the beach, pick up a paddle, go island hopping, catch the big one, snap the perfect sunset pic, — or all of the above — with our Pamlico River guide for summer fun. Set out to enjoy the water on page 38. Best wishes for a summer full of warm memories and cool experiences.

Ashley Vansant, Publisher We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine.

6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Steve Barnes Chelseas Hofmann Brandon Tester Contributors Richard Andrews Paul Harding Mary Mehlich Vail Stewart Rumley Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Kristen Smith Scott Williamson Distribution Kim Riggs Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2021, Washington Newsmedia, LLC.

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WHAT'S IN STORE

A piece of

Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED

Fishing around Fish don’t have to come from the water especially when they are inspiring handmade charcuterie boards (a.), $85. Add a colorfully crafted coaster set (b.), $28. Add a rustic round server to the table for a special decor and added charm (c.), $50. Find these handcrafted items at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

Coastal scent

Summer nights call for a special ambiance. Smell the fields with the Crystal Coast Sunny Daffodil (d.), $8, that can be found in downtown Washington at the Crystal Coast Hand Crafted shop.

Southern charm Show your southern colors with a cute “hey y’all” hat that is bright and vibrant with a little bit of charm (e.), $10. Bring some Bob Marley into your life with a lyrical sign to keep the summer tunes going (f.), $22. Find these items at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

Comfy baby Hand-knitted items are sure to keep the baby comfy with booties (g.), $10. Find the perfect hand-knitted stuffed animal like this bear (h.), $20, for your kid to snuggle all nap long. Find these delicate knits at the Crystal Coast Hand Crafted shop in downtown Washington.

g. h.

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Cigars and whiskey A perfect pair, cigars and whiskey are not included, but they’ll have the perfect resting spot with this hand crafted coaster and cigar holder (i.), $15. Find a variety of wood designs at the Crystal Coast Hand Crafted in downtown Washington.

Happy plants Keep your plants happy and aesthetically pleasing with this leather plant holder (k.), $25. This plant holder is the perfect mix of natural and unique to add a plant in any room of the house. Find this at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

Special salt

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Elevate your ingredients with truffle salt (j.), $19.95. Let the flavor drive the dish to a new experience. Find truffle salt at Fly Pig Provisions general store in downtown Washington.

m. l. n.

Boating necessities Sometimes necessities are the most forgotten. Find a variety of hats, flip-flops and other water needs at Flying Pig Provisions. Use a straw hat visor (m.), $29.95 to shield your face and ears from the North Carolina heat. Don’t forget about the little ones, help keep the sun off their face with a bucket hat (l.), $15.95. Flip-flops are the way to go while moving in the water, find a pair (n.) for $4.95 with a variety of colors to choose from.

Summer scoop Feel like you are working in an ice cream shop with a fun sundae scoop set. Scoop out the ice cream and toppings in style (r.), $15.95. Find this set at Flying Pig Provisions in downtown Washington.

s. q. o.

Maps for fun Easily locate your home town on a charm (o.), $10, a keychain (p.), $10, or a pair of earrings (g.) $20. Find the location that you favor to always keep home close. Map jewelery and charms can be found at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

Sauce it up Add a thai flair to your summer dishes with a variety of sauces (s.), $11.95. Thai sauces can be found at Flying Pig Provisions in downtown Washington.

MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13

Downtown style Add a pattern or texture to your outfit with a sweet summer satchel, (t.) $26-44. A purse can add even more personality to the wardrobe especially ones with a unique style and statement. Find these statement pieces at the Crystal Coast Hand Crafted store in downtown Washington.

Crafty purpose Find purpose to uncork a wine with these special monogrammed earrings (u.), $10. Earrings are available in all letters of the alphabet and add a fun piece to any winelovers wardrobe. Find these at the Crystal Coast Hand Crafted store in downtown Washington.

Anchored v.

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Drop the anchor on this river cottage decor place on a light teal background to add a pop of color to any household (v.), $12. A mug that coffee and tea lovers will love with a beautiful cobalt blue color and fun texture will make anyone swoon (w.), $20. Find these handmade goods at the Wander Co. in downtown Washington.

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FACT OR FICTION?

Blackbeard’s time in Bath

ny Beaufort County resident knows the story of our most infamous resident, Edward Teach, better known as the pirate Blackbeard. From stories about a marriage that never actually happened to a residence in Bath, the stories about Blackbeard are long and full of inconsistencies. Blackbeard historian Kevin Duffus has spent years researching and plotting Blackbeard’s career of piracy and believes that his time in Bath was shorter than legends claim.

WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN “The official records or primary sources indicate that his presence in Bath only spanned a time period from around July 1, 1718 to October 1718. His presence in Bath comprised five visits during that time, none of which were longer than a week or two,” Duffus said. “His documented career as a pirate was less than two years, it was actually 23 months. There’s a lot more to it, beyond that we get into circumstantial evidence and inferences. There’s a longer narrative that we can piece together.” Blackbeard’s first officially documented

visit to Bath came after the Queen Anne’s Revenge was run aground near Beaufort Inlet. The ship was wrecked on June 10 and Blackbeard was officially recorded in Bath for the first time a few weeks later on July 1. “Sailing to Bath in 1718, it was not an easy place to find. There were no buoys or navigation markers, there was no nutrient phosphate plant on the south side of the river to let you know that Bath Creek was coming up on your right as you traveled up the Pamlico river,” Duffus said.

American artist Jean Leon Gerome Ferris painted this piece, entitled Capture of the Pirate, Blackbeard, 1718 in 1920. The painting depicts Blackbeard’s final stand against Lieutenant Robert Maynard in Ocracoke where the pirate ultimately met his demise. (Jean Leon Gerome Ferris) 16 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

This cannon was found among the wreckage of Blackbeard’s most famous vessel, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, and was an object of great importance of to historians. (Photo by Vail Stewart Rumley) MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17

The town of Bath still clings tightly to the legendary pirate and his legacy, especially during the Blackbeard 300 celebration in 2018. This celebration marked 300 years since the pirate had roamed the area in and around Bath Creek. (Photo by Vail Stewart Rumley)

Because of the difficulty that came with finding Bath Creek, Duffus believes his choice of Bath was not a random one. “The reason I believe that Blackbeard had been to Bath before, is that when he sailed to North Carolina on the Queen Anne’s Revenge, he had on board a number of men who I’ve been able to prove were either the sons of plantation owners of Bath or the slaves of plantation owners of Bath,” Duffus said. In addition to the connections he and his crew had to the area, Blackbeard was able to receive a pardon previously offered by the King from Governor Eden. This pardon was offered on the promise that all acts of piracy would cease from the pirate and his crew. Despite this, Blackbeard and his crew continued their life of crime and cannibalised a French ship in order to repair their own damaged vessel. Following this act of piracy, Blackbeard made his second trip to Bath, this time in a small rowboat with only four Black men as his companions. “For many years I had a sailboat in Bath and I’ve made that trip from Ocracoke and back to Bath many times and it can be a very difficult trip, even potentially deadly. To be in a small open boat is very strange,” Duffus said. “He arrived at the mouth of Bath Creek at a place called Archibel Point and that is where the customs collector named Tobias Knight lived. Blackbeard shows up at 18 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

midnight, this was on September 14, and he goes inside this house and comes out five hours later and gets back in the boat and goes back to Ocracoke. He was in there meeting with Knight and discussing this problem that he’s got because he’s committed another act of piracy.” After his discussion with Knight, Blackbeard reappears in Bath around a week later on Sep. 22. He meets with Gov. Eden and says that the ship he had previously cannibalised for his own repairs was abandoned at sea. This was the plan concocted by Blackbeard and Knight a week earlier, and Gov. Eden plays into the plan and signs the rights of the ship to Blackbeard since he claimed to have discovered it. By this time, the ship had already been stripped of its parts and cargo by Blackbeard and his crew. The last two trips were shorter, with Blackbeard delivering goods stolen from the French ship to Gov. Eden and Knight respectively. Blackbeard left Bath for the final time around October 30, less than one month before he would meet his demise at the hands of Robert Maynard on the shores of Ocracoke. While five visits to Bath might seem insignificant, Blackbeard’s impact is still felt throughout the waterfront town. Over 300 years have passed since his final visit and even now, we celebrate his legacy entrenched in the area. ⋇

This map, originally completed in 1770, depicts the North Carolina coastline according to a survey done by John Collet, J. Bayly and Samuel Hooper. The map was hand colored and was created and published in London, England. (Image courtesy of the Library of Congress)

MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 19

HEAVENLY

Fields of yellow tulips from past at Terra Ceia Farms. 22 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

LAND TERRA CEIA FARMS home to three generations

WRITTEN BY STEVE BARNES

eendert Van Staalduinen had a plan in place to free his wife and 10 children from the crushing poverty Holland had endured since the end of World War I. It was 1938, but times were still hard 20 years after the war ended and Van Staalduinen had been working the proper channels for years to get the paperwork approved so his family might find a better life in America. Finally, a year later, word came that there was room on a ship bound for the United States, but only three could go, Leendert and his two oldest sons left the rest of the family behind and set out. The ship had to change course when word came that America was not accepting immigrants because of World War II and ended up in southern Ontario, Canada, near the city of Hamilton just over the border from Buffalo, NY. The rest of the family was allowed to enter eventually, and the clan made their way to Beaufort County in 1943. “My grandfather knew people from back home in Holland who settled here, and they wanted him to help them grow flowers, specifically tulips,” Carl Van Staalduinen, one of three brothers who currently operate the farm, said. “Terra Ceia was the destination all along, but the war delayed things for a few years.” When they arrived, the Van Staalduinens found plenty of work and plenty of wide open land to be settled. The family grew quickly, as Carl and his siblings and cousins were the first generation to be born in the United States.

MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 23

The Van Staalduinen family started growing tulips in Holland years before coming to America. Patriarch Leendert (left) and Martin (middle right) in 1926 surrounded by family and greenhouse tulips.

When they arrived, the Van Staalduinens found plenty of work and plenty of wide open land to be settled. The family grew quickly, as Carl and his siblings and cousins were the first generation to be born in the United States. Leendert grew flowers in Holland and soon found his own land to open Terra Ceia Farms with his two oldest sons and Cornelis, who was Carl’s father. The operation grew to over 1,000 acres and the family’s roots were firmly planted. “My dad had to grow up quickly and it wasn’t the easiest transition to make,” Carl said. “He went from Holland to Canada to the United States and was translating for my grandpa at the bank when he was 16. He quit school around that age and started in the business full-time.” Tulip growing season and the Easter holiday made the perfect sales opportunity. Northerners wanted the flowers for the holiday, 24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

but the lingering winter made it impossible to grow them. “We used to ship them in ice on the railroad tracks across the road,” Carl said. We’ve just kept growing the business from there.” Leendert suffered a back injury that effectively ended his dayto-day involvement when Cornelis was 25. He and his brothers eventually bought their father out so he could use the money for medical care. Leendert was bed-ridden, but his mind was still sharp. He came up with a mail order catalog from which customers can order anything from Amaryllis to Zephyranthes today. Cornelis eventually bought his brothers out and involved his

Carl Van Staalduinen currently operates the farm along with brothers Casey and Mark. MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25

Peonies in the field and after the harvest ready to ship world-wide.

I developed a strong dislike for gladiolus after wading through the mud to put an inch of water on them every day. We hauled 50 pounds of them on our backs coming in from the harvest. It was very labor intensive and not very glamorous, but I did learn a lot. —CARL VAN STAALDUINEN own three sons, Casey, Carl and Mark. “We would go to school then go to work from the time I was 11 or 12,” Carl said. “I developed a strong dislike for gladiolus after wading through the mud to put an inch of water on them every day. We hauled 50 pounds of them on our backs coming in from the harvest. It was very labor intensive and not very glamorous, but I did learn a lot.” Van Staalduinen graduated from Calvin College in Grand Rapids, MI with no intention of returning to the family business. “I went to school as far away from home as my dad would let me and still pay for it,” Carl said. He entered the job market with business degree in hand but found nothing suitable. The lure of warmer weather was pulling 26 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

him home and Cornelis talked him into giving the flower business a try. Fast-forward to 1996 when he and his brothers bought out their father and became the third generation to run Terra Ceia Farms. Casey and Mark stayed closer to home to graduate from North Carolina State. “We grow corn and soybeans in addition to flowers and ship bulbs to the 48 contiguous states and around the world,” Carl said. “We have customers in New Zealand, South Korea, Ecuador and points in between. Whole Foods and Trader Joe’s are two biggest direct-to-consumer customers and that accounts for about 80% of our business.” Last April, row upon row of multi-colored tulips lit up the

MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 27

landscape in front of the main entrance off Terra Ceia Road. Thousands enjoyed the view and social media blew up with their photos to prove it. Not so this spring and Mother Nature took the blame. “The window to plant is late January to mid-February,” Carl said. “We had the bulbs, but it was way too wet to plant. We hadn’t had tulips in the front for years and years, but it was great advertising, and we’ll try to do it again next year.” As the business approaches 80, Carl doesn’t see an end. “I’m 53 and not ready to retire yet,” he said. “Business has improved every year, but we had about 10 years’ worth of growth in 2020 because of COVID. Our internet business is thriving, and we’ve kept our mass market relationships strong over many years. My brothers and I have sons who could be next in line, but we told them to go make mistakes on somebody else’s dime and come back in a few years.” ⋇

Leedert and Cornelia Van Staalduinen take an Easter stroll through the fields of Terra Ceia Farms. 28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

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P.S. Jones High School alumna Alice Mills-Sadler looks over some of the items in the P.S. Jones Alumni Museum, which is currently in development.

A STORY TO TELL

Through museum and other initiatives, P.S. Jones High alumni aim to educate, connect community STORY AND PHOTOS BY BRANDON TESTER

A CERTAIN TWO-BLOCK CAMPUS IN WASHINGTON

tudents no longer walk the hallways of the former P.S. Jones High School campus. Several of its classrooms, once full of students learning everything from English to skilled trades, now sit empty. The campus’ gymnasium — the successor to the original gym, which, as many alumni recall, collapsed under its own weight — seldom echoes with the sounds

of athletic competition. The campus has undergone several changes in identity and aesthetics since it was opened in the early 20th century. Through it all, P.S. Jones High alumni have kept their memories intact, and they’re ready to pass on their stories to anyone who wants to learn the history behind the brick buildings that sit between Pierce and Bridge streets — “the complex,” as the alumni know it.

32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

BRICK BY BRICK

Before it was P.S. Jones High School, the campus consisted of just a few buildings that formed Washington Colored Public School. Those buildings were constructed literally brick by brick. In the 1920s, A.G. Davis sold bricks for one penny apiece to build a school for Black students. What started as one building developed into three separate buildings that housed the primary,

elementary and high school grade levels. Those original buildings have since been demolished. The school’s first class graduated in 1926. A year later, Peter Simon Jones, of Warren County, became the school’s principal. Jones would hold that position for 22 years, and the school grew in terms of population and course offerings under his leadership. W.M. Daniels Jr., who oversaw the construction of a new wing, succeeded Jones in 1949. Jones died in 1950; that same year, Washington Colored Public School was named in his honor. In the landmark 1954 case Brown v. Board of Education, the Supreme Court ruled that segregation in public schools was unconstitutional. However, the school system known at that time as Washington City Schools didn’t integrate until 1968. Leading up to that, through the state’s freedom-of-choice plan, students could attend whichever school they wanted to, regardless of the color of their skin. That meant P.S. Jones High students could attend Washington high, and vice versa. “To my knowledge, no white kids came to our school,” said Alice Mills-Sadler, a P.S. Jones alumna. “But some Black kids opted to go over to the white high school.” Through a form of desegregation busing — “the draft,” as Mills-Sadler remembers it — students were eventually assigned to different schools in order to increase diversity. Mills-Sadler’s was assigned to Washington High School. Two months before her senior year began, Washington City Schools integrated. As a result, P.S. Jones High School became P.S. Jones Junior High School. The school eventually moved to a different campus, and it is now located on Market Street Extension.

This photo shows part of the original Washington Colored Public School, which became P.S. Jones High School in 1950. (P.S. Jones Alumni Inc.)

“PAM JACKETS”

P.S. Jones High School students who ended up graduating from Washington High post-integration started calling themselves the Pam Jackets, a combination of Washington’s nickname, the Pam Pack, and P.S. Jones High’s mascot, the Yellow Jackets. It was their way of acknowledging where they came from and where they finished. Many of the memories and achievements those students experienced at P.S. Jones can only be passed down via word of mouth. When the local schools integrated, trophies and other memorabilia commemorating the schools’ academic and athletic achievements disappeared. “The football team went undefeated, and the basketball team went undefeated,” alumnus Archie Harding said. “They won the state championship, and we had memorabilia for that.” But some pictures and other P.S. Jones memorabilia have been in safekeeping over the past several decades, and they’ll be on display inside the P.S. Jones Alumni

A monument marks the area where the original Washington Colored Public School Building stood. MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33

This two-block are was the heart of the black community. It wasn’t just a school; anything that happened in the Black community typically happened on this campus, whether it was a community concert, summer activities for the kids, intramural sports and stuff like that. — ALICE MILLS-SADLER

Museum, which is currently in development on the former P.S. Jones campus. The property is no longer being used as an educational facility; it now houses several Beaufort County Schools administrative offices. “Because the artifacts were destroyed, we’re hoping that there are a few family members, once we get (the museum) set up, who will give us actual artifacts. And we do have a few,” Mills-Sadler said. The museum will include information about the history of P.S. Jones High School, as well as other local schools and churches where black students were educated before integration. SHARING THE STORY

“This two-block are was the heart of the black community,” Mills-Sadler said. “It wasn’t just a school; anything that happened in the Black community typically happened on this campus, whether it was a community concert, summer activities for the kids, intramural sports and stuff like that.” P.S. Jones alumni are looking to keep the campus’ legacy as a school and a community staple alive by educating the public through the museum and other initiatives, and by upgrading the property to encourage public use and community engagement. One initiative the alumni and the City of Washington recently took on was the construction of P.S.. Jones Memorial Park, which is located on the northern end of the campus. The park includes a walking trail, a pavilion for picnics and a playground. Mills-Sadler said her graduating class recently held its 50th anniversary festivities. For that event, the alumni invited some of their white classmates to the campus, gave them a tour of the facility and taught them about how P.S. Jones is deepy rooted in the Black community. Mills-Sadler recalled a reaction from that even that reinforced the importance of P.S. Jones alumni sharing their side of history: “One of them said,’ this should have happened 50 years ago.’” ⋇ 34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

An art gallery in the P.S. Jones Museum features pieces created by P.S. Jones High graduates.

MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35

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MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37

SUMMER FUN ON THE

PAMLICO RIVER Heart of the county WRITTEN BY STEVE BARNES

t’s impossible to imagine what Beaufort County would look like without the Pamlico River to split it into two almost equal halves. The Pamlico picks up where the Tar leaves off, at the U.S. 17 bridge on the western edge of downtown Washington. 35 nautical miles later, after the Pungo joins from the north, it empties into the Pamlico Sound. There’s a lot to discover along the way and the following pages are your guide to new discoveries and a chance to see familiar features from different angles. The Pamlico teems with wildlife of all ilk’s, from black bears along the shore to great blue herons and osprey who soar high above, then swoop down for a quick meal. The bald eagle trains its sharp eye on those below, while abundant waterfowl make their presence known with a well-timed screech or two. Boats of all sizes on various missions make their way up and down the waterway, always mindful of the sail boaters and kayakers who share the space. Castle Island, across from the Washington Waterfront, is a diversion worth exploring, rich in lore with a wink to bawdy times past. Further east lies the Goose Creek State Park beach for those land-lubbers interested in a picnic or just relaxing in a lounge chair. The river provides the backdrop for the sun on its way up or down, signaling the dawn of a new day or a spectacular end to one fully enjoyed. Stick around long enough and the river becomes part of your soul. ⋇

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A day at the beach, Goose Creek State Park-style

WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY STEVE BARNES bout the only thing the beach at Goose Creek State Park has in common with South Beach in Miami or Atlantic Beach along the North Carolina coast is sand, but if you stay awhile, you’ll soak up its distinct laid back vibe. It’s a small beach in the rustic sense as old growth cypress and live oaks dripping in abundant Spanish moss dot the shoreline. Show up at the right time and you might see an osprey feeding its young in a nest high off the ground. Bring binoculars to spot other waterfowl. There are four picnic tables available along with plenty of shade for relaxing in a beach chair with your toes in the sand as a cool, soothing breeze wafts in from the Pamlico River. Swimming is an option and so is a short walk along the shoreline. There is a narrow walking path with expansive water views along the shoreline that goes less than a mile in either direction from the main swimming beach. The water is too shallow to access the beach by boat. Boaters are advised to use Dinah’s Landing on the other side of the park. Regular park regulations apply. Camping and fires are permitted in designated areas, but fireworks are not. Firearms and other weapons are prohibited except by permit. Possession or consumption of alcoholic beverages is prohibited, and pets must be on an attended leash no longer than six feet. The swimming area is open from Memorial Day to Labor Day, free of charge, but there are no lifeguards on duty. Water shoes are recommended. Visit ncparks.gov for park hours and further details. ⋇

Spectacular views of the Pamlico River are plentiful along the walking trail at Goose Creek State Park beach. MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39

The Pamlico River and its connecting tributaries provide kayakers with endless streams to explore during the warmer months. Several local marinas and businesses offer rentals for interested parties. (File Photo)

Paddle your way into summer bliss WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN

eaufort County boasts over 88,000 acres of water across 828 square miles. The Pamlico River and its tributaries are an integral part of the area and as the summer months begin in earnest, residents from across the state will spend time in the water. Numerous boat ramps are available throughout the county and provide the public free access to the river. Several businesses in our area

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offer rentals of kayaks, canoes, stand-up paddleboards and pontoon boats for individuals with an itch to get out on the water. For those interested in chartering a vessel, several options are available along the Pamlico River. From sailboats to catamarans and all seaworthy ships in between, the options are almost limitless to those looking for a relaxing day trip along the vast waters of Beaufort County. ⋇

KAYAK, CANOE, PADDLEBOARD AND BOAT RENTALS Cotton Patch Landing on Blounts Creek 2018 Cotton Patch Road, Chocowinity 252-946-8226 cottonpatchlanding.com Cotton Patch Landing is open Mondays, Wednesdays Thursdays, Friday and Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Kayak rentals: $15 plus tax for one to two hours, $25 plus tax for two to four hours, $40 plus tax for four to eight hours Inner Banks Outfitters 1050 E. Main St., Washington 252-975-3006 innerbanksoutfitters.com Inner Banks is open Tuesdays through Friday from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., Saturdays from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Sundays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Single kayaks: $30 for one to four hours, $45 for four to eight hours Tandem kayaks: $45 for one to four hours, $60 for four to eight hours Stand-up paddleboards: $30 for one to four hours, $45 for four to eight hours All kayak and stand-up paddleboard rentals come with paddles and life jackets Moss Landing Marina 227 Water St., Washington 252-623-1314 mosslandingmarina.com Moss Landing Marina is open Mondays through Thursdays from 12 p.m. to 6 p.m. and Fridays through Sundays from 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Kayak rentals: $25 for one to four hours, $40 for four to eight hours Stand-up paddleboard rentals: $25 for one to four hours, $40 for four to eight hours Canoe rentals: $35 for one to four hours, $50 for four to eight hours 19ft Deck Boat with 115 horsepower engine rental: $55 per hour, $330 for eight or more hours, $25 cancelation fee

20ft Sweetwater Pontoon boat with 60 horsepower engine rental: $55 per hour, $330 for eight or more hours, $ 25 cancelation fee 20-foot Manitou Pontoon boat with 60 horsepower engine rental: $65 per hour, $390 for eight or more hours, $ 25 cancelation fee

current availability and pricing

BOAT CHARTERS

The Schooner Jeanie B Capt. Rick Brass 252-671-0080 Seating for up to 25 passengers Full kitchen, full bathrooms with showers Sleeping quarters for 12 passengers Day sails, sunset cruises and extended trips available

McCotters Marina and Boat Yard 179 McCotters Marina Road, Washington 252-975-2174 Mccottersmarina.com McCotters Marina and Boat Yard is open Mondays through Fridays 8 a.m. to 5:30 p.m., Saturdays from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and Sundays by appointment only. McCotters has several boats in charter. Call the marina at 252-975-2174 for

Capt. Joe Sizemore 1235 Bayview Road, Bath 252-944-9812 captainjoesizemore.com Charters, yacht delivery and weddings available For pricing and availability, contact Capt. Sizemore at 242-944-9812 Operates off the Washington waterfront and in Bath

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Exploring the island WRITTEN BY BRANDON TESTER

astle Island is hard to miss. Located just off of the Washington waterfront, the island spans 4.6 acres and is covered with dense vegetation. The island is rooted in Washington’s history. It was originally named “Goat Island” because its first and only inhabitants were goats. The name Castle Island came from a kiln in which oyster shells were incinerated. The kiln’s smokestacks resembled the turrets of a castle. Since the 1800s, Castle Island has served a variety of purposes. The island has housed a lumberyard, a sawmill and even a brothel. Plans to develop the island into a recreational space have been considered over the years, but no ideas have come to fruition. Today, the island is uninhabited by homes or industrial facilities. The City of Washington owns 2.84 acres of the island — including

the section of the island that is closes to the North Carolina Estuarium. A private individual owns the other 1.81 acres. Castle Island still serves a couple of purposes. Paddlers often use the island as a place to take a rest, do some exploring, and maybe even spend some time on the island’s small beach-like area. If you don’t know about that area, it’s probably because you haven’t had much of a chance to see it. The sandy strip lies on the island’s south side, opposite of the Washington waterfront. The best way to view and access the south side of the island is by boat. Whether you’re just passing by, using it as a rest stop on your journey down the Pamlico River or checking it out from a distance, you might find that there’s more to Castle Island than meets the eye — both aesthetically and historically. ⋇

Because of its location on the Pamlico River and proximity to the Washington waterfront, boaters often visit Castle Island to explore or take a break from paddling. Photo by Will Preslar

A painted landscape by local artist Doug Alvord depicts the Washington waterfront as it appeared during the 19th Century. 42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

A wide array of fish species in local waters, combined with an abundance of river access points, docks and guide services make Beaufort County an ideal place for anglers (Beacon Street)

Finding the perfect place to fish WRITTEN BY BRANDON TESTER

eaufort County’s proximity to the TarPamlico River system makes it an ideal spot for fishers. The county boasts plenty of boat ramps and docks that provide easy access to the water. And because Washington is near an estuary, where fresh water from the land mixes with saltwater from the sea, those fishers have access to a large variety of species. The North Carolina Wildlife Resources Commission lists several local spots where fishers can take to the water. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the N.C. Division of Marine Fisheries regulate nearby waterways in order to protect the local ecosystem, so fishers should stay up to date on rules and regulations before casting their lines at any location. Masons Landing, which is just off of Clarks Neck Road in Washington, provides boat ramp and canoe access to the Tar-Pamlico River. The WRC maintains that location. Havens Gardens, which is maintained by the City of Washington, provides boats, kayaks and canoes with access to Runyon Creek, which feeds into the Pamlico River. Havens

Gardens also features a public fishing pier. River and creek fishing spots are accessible at Goose Creek State Park in Washington. According to information provided by North Carolina State Parks, the species of fish found at Goose Creek include largemouth bass, bluegill and white and yellow perch. Warmer weather brings a larger amount of freshwater and saltwater species to the area. The Blounts Creek public fishing pier, which is located at 350 Crisp Landing Road, allows for boat access as well. The pier is close to Blounts Bay and the Pamlico River. Another public fishing pier located in Aurora provides access to South Creek. Belhaven residents can access Pantego River and the Pungo River by way of a boat ramp located near West Water and Haslin streets. The Pungo can also be accessed by way of Wrights Creek in Aurora. A complete list of fishing spots throughout the state can be found at ncwildlife.org. For those who don’t want to set out on their own, several local businesses offer charters and other guided fishing services. ⋇ MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43

Picture perfect: tips for riverfront photos WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN

unsets along the Pamlico River paint the skies and water beneath in bright strokes of blue, purple, pink, orange, yellow and red. These picturesque sights are what every photographer dreams of, but for someone looking into capturing the perfect photo along the river, this can be harder said than done. “Don’t let others steer you toward their style or genre of photography,” said local hobby photographer Paul Harding. “Follow your own heart and it will steer you where you need to be. Also, don’t get hung up on new equipment. Buy used or refurbished equipment to start, it saves money and works perfectly well. There are also plenty of photographers out there that do well with nothing more than a phone camera.” Phone cameras like Harding mentions have come a long way in a short time, with some mobile phones boasting over 100 megapixels, which is much higher than some of the most popular entry-level DSLR cameras from recognizable brands like Canon and Nikon. That being said, DSLRs do offer more opportunities for customization like aperture and ISO. These terms may seem high-brow for someone just getting into photography, but they both deal with the same thing; light. “I am a big fan of shooting in aperture priority and generally at wide aperture to keep depth of field shallow. I also like to use auto ISO because my subjects are mobile and often moving quickly from sunlight to deep shade and everything in between. I do shoot in manual but not frequently,” Harding said. Wide apertures allow more light into the lens, which in turn creates a brighter image while high apertures limit the amount of light. ISO is similar in that it determines the camera’s sensitivity to light. A higher ISO means a higher sensitivity and brighter image, while a low ISO means a darker image. Auto ISO is automatically configured by the camera based on the light available at the time of shooting. Fellow photographer Jack Willard also focuses on aperture, especially when shooting shots along the river. “Whether taking sunrise or sunset pics a lot depends on cloud cover. Practice makes perfect. Check times for sunrise and sunset,” Willard said. “And learn how to take photos first. Get the basics down. I started out with a Kodak Brownie camera and progressed from there. It’s not the price of fancy equipment that makes the photographer but basic skills that comes with practice.” These times for sunrise and sunset photography are sometimes referred to as the “golden hour” by some photographers due to the low angle of the sun, which leads to softer lighting with a more balanced contrast. The biggest piece of advice both Harding and Willard have for aspiring photographers is this; practice. The more you practice taking these waterfront images, the better you will become and the more comfortable you will be taking these photos. “I stress practice and patience and, most importantly, have fun.” Willard says. ⋇

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Getting the proper lighting is essential for shots along the river. For a sunset photo likes these, try to venture out about an hour before sunset to set up your aperture and ISO to ensure your camera is functioning properly and ready to capture the perfect shot. (Beacon Street)

Submitted by Beacon Street MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 45

Harding loves capturing birds like Herons and Cormorants. “They’re all thieves, it makes them really fun to shoot,” Harding said. 46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

This six-foot alligator was caught sunning himself in the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge.

INTO THE WILD WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN | PHOTOS BY PAUL HARDING

aul Harding’s wildlife photographs represent the native plants and animals in our area. Since moving to Washington within the last 10 years, Harding has gained an appreciation for the wildlife in his new town and frequents the local wildlife refuges often to capture his subjects in their natural habitat. “My favorite creature to photograph for me personally, especially since moving here, is bears. I hadn’t seen a bear before in my life outside of the zoos until I came here,” Harding said. “Someone told me about Goose Creek State Park when I was new to the area and I saw a fox there and it just lit a fire under me. That’s how I found Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge, and my very first day there, I got my bears. I was petrified but

now I love it.” Harding’s passion for photography began years earlier, well before his immigration to the United States from the United Kingdom. “When I was 17, my sister took me into a big department store in town and she bought me a real camera. She was tired of watching me use the little Kodak I had and I just played around with it and didn’t know where I wanted to go with it,” Harding said. “I was infatuated with it and just started wasting film and taking pictures of flowers and buildings and people and trees and just found that this is what I wanted to do.” According to Harding, there was never a specific point in his life where he thought wildlife photography was his calling. Using the camera purchased by his sister, Harding slowly recognized MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 47

subjects he enjoyed photographing and began to focus on that more. “I didn’t really find it, it found me. It started with birds. Living in the United Kingdom, I lived in a rural atmosphere so there were a lot of birds and deer to take pictures of. Once I moved to the United States, I just continued it,” Harding said. “I’ve discovered now, close to 50 years later, that this is what I like to do. I’m retired and I spend every minute at it that I possibly can.” Harding frequents the Pocosin Lake Wildlife Refuge along with Goose Creek State Park and the Alligator River National Wildlife Refuge. Since moving to Washington after his retirement, Harding says he has several sweet spots he likes to go within each of these parks to get the perfect shot. “It’s really all about timing. I would suggest getting there about 30 minutes before sunrise. It’s still light enough to see and you can get some great shots of the animals moving through the park in the early morning hours,” Harding said. ⋇

This red-headed woodpecker was spotted foraging for food during one of Harding’s visits to Jordan Lake State Recreation Area in Apex.

Harding’s main piece of advice is taking as many photos as you can of the wildlife you see. This two-tailed swallowtail was captured along U.S. Highway 264. 48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021

Harding’s favorite animal to photograph is a bear. He estimates this cub to be around five or six months old when Harding stumbled upon him in the Pocosin Lakes Wildlife Refuge.

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WHAT'S TO EAT

Recipes to launch your

SAVORY SUMMER FOOD PREP, PHOTOGRAPHS AND STORY BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

ummertime offers some of the best Down East cooking — recipes that have been passed down through the generations and make the most of local bounty. From the Pamlico river and sound, come the crab filling out Mary Shetrone’s Crab Cakes and shrimp that make a splash in Nancy Winfrey’s Sautéed Shrimp and Cheese Grits. Lush, local fields offer up the bounty to be found in Caren W. Newman’s Deep Fried Okra and Reatha Elks’ Sweet Potato Biscuits. The sweet scent of magnolia drifting on a warm, summer breeze pairs nicely with the sweetness of Jan De Hoog’s peach crumble — with a scoop of melting, vanilla ice cream.

These culinary traditions, and more, are shared by some of the best cooks Beaufort County has to offer; their recipes compiled throughout the years to highlight local cuisine at its finest. Some cooks share their recipes freely; others guard them closely — Carol Jones won’t tell you the secret ingredients of the best chocolate pie in her baking arsenal, but in this issue of Washington the Magazine, she gives us her Carrot Cake, a scrumptious dessert that’s all carrot-no-raisins-no-nuts and always in high demand from friends and neighbors alike. If you’re in the mood for some savory, summer cooking, you’ve come to the right place! Buy local and get to some Down East cooking, Beaufort County-style! ⋇

CRAB CAKES Recipe by Mary Shetrone “Praise God, Let’s Eat,” Christ Vision Church, Blounts Creek 3/4 cup cracker crumbs; 3/4 cup bread crumbs; 1/2 teaspoon Chesapeake seasoning (Old Bay or OJ); 1/4 teaspoon salt; 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper; 2 egg whites; 2 teaspoons chopped fresh parsley; 1 tablespoon, minced onion; 1/4 nonfat mayonnaise; 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce; 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard; 2 tablespoons water; 1/2 pound lump crabmeat, drained and picked over; 3 tablespoon olive oil. In a small mixing bowl, combine the cracker crumbs, bread crumbs, Chesapeake seasoning, salt and pepper. In a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the egg whites, parsley, green onions, mayonnaise, Worcestershire sauce, mustard and water. Stir the dry ingredients into wet and when well-combined, gently fold in crabmeat. Shape the mixture into six tight balls and refrigerate for one hour. In a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat until hot, but not smoking. Flatten the crab balls to about 1-inch thickness and add to the frying pan, being sure to crowd the pan. Cook six minutes on each side. Remove and drain on a stack of paper towels.

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CAROL’S CARROT CAKE Recipe by Carol Jones, Washington Park 2 cups self-rising flour; 4 eggs; 2 cups sugar; 1 1/4 cups Wesson oil; 3 cups grated carrots; 1/2 teaspoon baking soda; 1 teaspoon vanilla; 2 1/2 teaspoons cinnamon. Cream cheese frosting: 1 box plus 1 cup confectioner’s sugar; 1/2 stick butter, softened; 12 ounces cream cheese, softened; 1 teaspoon vanilla. Cream sugar and oil together. Add in vanilla. Add eggs, one at a time. Mix flour, soda and cinnamon in a separate bowl. Gradually add flour mixture to sugar mixture. Mix well. Fold in carrots. Pour into three greased, 8-inch cake pans. Bake 30-35 minutes at 350 degrees. Frosting: cream together butter, cream cheese and vanilla. Gradually add sugar. Frost cake, then keep refrigerated.

FRIED GREEN TOMATOES

SUMMER SQUASH SOUFFLE

Recipe by Hilda McLawhorn “Cooking with Grace, Volume II,” Bath Christian Church, Bath 1 cup corn meal; 1/2 cup flour; 1 tablespoon sugar; 4-5 green tomatoes; cooking oil. Slice tomatoes to 1/2-inch thick. In shallow container, mix corn meal, flour and sugar. Coat both sides of sliced tomatoes in mixture. Heat about a 1/2 inch of oil in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add tomatoes to hot oil, a few at a time. Do not crowd the skillet. Fry approximately two minutes on each side, until golden-brown. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt and pepper to taste. Serve hot.

Recipe by Shirley Gurganus “From the Pages of Time,” Women Active for Christ, First Free Will Baptist Church, Washington 1 egg; 1 cup mushroom soup; 1 cup Ritz crackers, crushed; 1/2 stick butter; 1/4 cup evaporated milk; 1/3 cup grated cheese; dash of salt; 1 quart cooked squash. Boil summer squash in salted water until tender. Drain and chop. Add all other ingredients and mix well. Bake at 350 degrees for 25 minutes until lightly browned.

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DEEP FRIED OKRA Recipe by Caren W. Newman “Scent from Heaven” Smyrna OFWB Ladies Auxiliary, Blounts Creek 1 pound fresh okra; 1 cup flour; 1 cup corn meal; 1 1/2 teaspoons salt; 1/2 teaspoon pepper; 1 egg; 1 cup buttermilk; vegetable oil. Wash okra; drain. Cut off tips and stem ends; cut crosswise into 1/2-inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Mix flour and corn meal in a large bowl. Mix egg and buttermilk. Put about 1/3 of the okra into egg mixture. Remove with slotted spoon into flour mixture. Coat well. Deep fry at 375 degrees until brown. Drain on paper towels. Repeat process until all okra are cooked.

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SAUTÉED SHRIMP WITH CHEESE GRITS Recipe by Nancy Winfrey “Plate & Palette,” Arts of the Pamlico, Washington 1 1/2 cups chicken broth; 1 1/2 cups milk; 3/4 cups quick grits; 1/4 teaspoon salt; 1 cup shredded cheddar cheese; 1 cup diced bacon; 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined; 1/2 cup thinly sliced strips green bell pepper; 1/2 cup thinly sliced strips red bell pepper; 1/2 cup slivered onion; sliced green onions and shredded cheddar cheese for garnish; Tabasco sauce. To prepare grits, brink chicken broth and milk to a boil in a large saucepan. Stir in grits and salt; return to boil. Cover and reduce heat to low. Cook five minutes until thickened, stirring occasionally. Stir in cheddar cheese. Keep warm. To prepare shrimp, cook bacon in skillet until crisp. Remove from skillet and drain bacon on paper towels; set aside. Drain all but two tablespoons of drippings from skillet. Add shrimp, peppers and onion; cook until vegetables are tender and shrimp turns pink, about three to five minutes. Season with Tabasco sauce. Stir in bacon. Serve shrimp mixture over warm cheese gits. Garnish with chopped green onions and shredded cheddar cheese.

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SWEET POTATO BISCUITS Recipe by Reatha Elks “Heavenly Treasures,” Hodges Chapel PH Church, Chocowinity 3/4 cup cooked sweet potatoes, mashed; 1/4 cup butter, melted; 2 tablespoons brown sugar; 2 tablespoons sugar; 2 cups all-purpose flour; 1 tablespoon baking powder; 1 teaspoon baking soda; 1 teaspoon salt, 3/4 cup buttermilk. Combine sweet potatoes and butter, then add buttermilk. Combine flour, sugars, baking powder, baking soda and salt. Add sweet potato mixture to flour mixture. Knead lightly six to eight times. Bake at 400 degrees for 18 to 20 minutes.

PESTO (BASIL AND/OR SPINACH) Recipe by Pat Gertz “Keys to the Kitchen, Gracefully Rekeyed,” St. Peter’s Episcopal Church, Washington 2 cups loosely pack basil leaves or spinach (or a combination); 1/3 cup pine nuts; 2 cloves garlic, peeled (may reduce if not a big fan of garlic); 2/3 cup Parmesan cheese; 2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil; salt and pepper, to taste. Combine first four ingredients in a food processor until mixture is a chunky paste. Trickle the olive oil in with the machine running. It should become a smooth, thick paste. If too dry, add more olive oil. If too thin, add more cheese. Serve with crackers or over pasta.

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PEACH CRUMBLE Recipe by Jan De Hoog “Welkom,” Terra Ceia Cookbook III, Terra Ceia 4 cups sliced peaches; 3/4 cup brown sugar; 1 cup graham cracker crumbs; 3/4 teaspoon nutmeg; 3/4 teaspoon cinnamon; 1/3 cup butter, softened. Put peaches and brown sugar into a 9-inch by 9-inch square pan. Mix. Then mix together the other ingredients and sprinkle over the top of the peaches. Bake at 375 degrees for 30 to 35 minutes. Serve with ice cream.

WORD ON WINE

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MAPPING WHITE WINES by style WRITTEN BY MARY MEHLICH | PHOTO BY ELIZABETH REED

isualizing the relationships between wine styles is a helpful way to find and follow patterns in the tastes of any subset of wines. Taken together, factors like grapes and region, climate and winemaking approach, can give us a sense of which wines are likely to have the most in common in terms of sensory traits and flavor profile. In colder regions or when harvested early, wines made from most white grapes share a similar lowripeness aromatic profile, featuring mild, simple apple and pear flavors. Such wines also share other low-ripeness features like low alcohol, and high acidity. When grapes achieve greater ripeness, either through warmer climate conditions or by delaying harvest, the individual aromatic personality of each variety becomes apparent. Most white grapes start to display a peachier more tropical flavor as they ripen. Some may even reach a stage where the fruit tastes cooked or dried. For instance, Moscato becomes more floral and Sauvignon Blanc may become more herbaceous. Going from lower ripeness to higher ripeness Sauvignon Blanc starts out with crab apple and lime flavors to mature with grapefruit and guava flavors. Chardonnay starts out with green apple, white peach and matures with pineapple, melon and baked apple flavors. Moscato starts with green pear, green grape and matures with honeysuckle and red peach flavors. Truly light-bodied wines are those with 12.5 % alcohol or less. They are almost invariably white and share a sheer, delicate mouthfeel. When dry, lightweight wines are made from low ripeness fruit by definition., many are lightly sweet wines whose fermentation was stopped to retain some sugar. However, fully sweet dessert wines are an exception. Many are heavier than their alcohol would suggest.

For example, a Fre n c h B r u t Champagne will have a lightweight, mild flavor. German Riesling from Mosel will have a lightweight medium flavor and an Italian Moscato D’Asti will have a lightweight , bold flavor. Wines with alcohol over 12.5% but under 14% are considered mid-weight styles with normal ripeness. For example Northern Italian Pinot Grigio has a mid-weight, mild flavor. French Bourgogne Blanc (Chardonnay) has a mid-weight, medium flavor and New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has a midweight, bold flavor. There are far fewer whites than reds in the heavyweight category, at 14% alcohol or higher, because to reach these alcohol level they must be made from hyper-ripe grapes or strengthened with distilled spirit. For instance, Australian oaked Chardonnay has a heavyweight, medium flavor. French Alsace Gewurztraminer has a heavyweight, bold flavor and Portuguese Rainwater Madeira has a heavyweight flavor. The ver y best way to understand these different styles is to taste them. Learning the different weights and styles helps you to learn how to pair them with your favorite foods and opens the door to a world of wonderful wines. Cheers!! ⋇ MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57

CAST A LINE

The Pamlico

A FLY FISHERMAN’S PARADISE

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

he late spring and early summer on the Pamlico are rich with opportunities for anglers, especially for fly fishermen. This year, we should have excellent speckled trout fishing and plenty of redfish (puppy drum) to go with them. Recent restrictions on flounder harvest will yield a greater abundance of larger flounder in our system. The striped bass will be abundant all summer and will be exciting to catch on topwater lures in the early morning and late afternoon low light hours. Last but not least, many of the creeks will be alive with freshwater species, providing excellent bass and pan fishing for those anglers seeking the less open waters of the lower Pamlico River and Sound. June is also the time of year when tarpon migrate into the Pamlico, providing big game fishing for the most adventurous and patient of anglers. While most of the fishing occurring in our area is with conventional spinning gear, our fishery lends itself very well to fly fishing. In places like the Southern Appalachians, Western Montana, the Florida Everglades, Louisiana marshes, or the Florida Keys, fly fishing is very popular and in many cases, can overshadow conventional fishing. In some of these areas, fly shops abound and a “fly fishing culture” permeates the small communities surrounding their waters. In Eastern NC, this culture doesn’t really exist and is not very popular, although nationally and internationally fly fishing is more popular than it has

Captain Richard Andrews with a striped bass caught on a 6 weight.

ever been and is the fastest growing facet of fishing, especially among women and people with more diverse backgrounds and ethnicities. To my knowledge, there are only three fly shops east of Raleigh in North Carolina: Great Outdoor Provision in Greenville (which is not really a fly shop but carries flies and fly gear), Cape Lookout Fly Shop in Atlantic Beach, owned and operated by Capt. Joe Shute and Intracoastal Angler in Wilmington, which is a tackle shop carrying flies and fly gear. In the North Carolina mountains, there is at least one if not several fly shops in every small town. Fly fishing is a big deal and also big business for the shops, the outfitters, and the guides.

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Our fishery lends itself well to fly fishing on the surface using floating fly lines and also subsurface using sink tips or sinking fly lines, more common in the upstream flowing portions of our rivers for shad and stripers. Fly rods are classed in size by weights, ranging from 0 weights for the smallest and lightest of fish to 15 weights for big game species such as blue marlin. Ultralight and light (3-5 weight) fly fishing opportunities are everywhere with our wide variety of freshwater warm water panfish species and juvenile saltwater species, as the Pamlico estuary one of largest nursery areas for saltwater fish in the continental United States. Our larger mixed bag fishing (specs, reds, flounder, stripers) in the 15-30” range lend themselves well to fishing with 6-8 weights. Our larger species such as the adult redfish and tarpon, although very few have been caught on fly in North Carolina, and the numerous nearshore ocean species provide excellent 9-12 weight action. I encourage anyone interested in pursuing the great sport of fly fishing to explore the opportunities that exist right here in our own backyard. Developing fly fishing in our area as a popular and mainstream tactic for catching fish is a goal of mine. Come help me grow the sport in our area and see the potential of the Inner Banks as a fly fishing destination. Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com.⋇

TRAVEL & LEISURE

History and nature combine at FORT MACON STATE PARK

WRITTEN BY CHELSEA HOFMANN | PHOTOS BY FORT MACON STATE PARK

ort Macon State Parks offers visitors a unique opportunity to submerge themselves in the titular fort’s history while enjoying all that the coastal environment has to offer. The history of Fort Macon dates back to the mid-1700s when raiders attacked the English colonies along the coast. The original fort, Fort Dobbs, was never completed and the construction of the fort that currently stands began in 1826. The fort was garrisoned in 1834 and named Fort Macon after Nathaniel Macon, a U.S. senator from North Carolina who was responsible for gathering the funds needed for construction.

The fort was commandeered by North Carolina at the start of the Civil War but was retaken by the Union in 1862. It then served as a coaling station for Union ships, a federal prison from 1867-1876 and was garrisoned during the SpanishAmerican War before officially closing in 1903. Following its closure, Fort Macon was considered surplus federal property and was bought for $1 by North Carolina after the state had established the state parks system. Fort Macon became the second official N.C. state park in 1924. The fort was restored from 1934-1935 and was garrisoned for the last time during World War II.

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The fort is located within the 424 acre state park. Activities for guests include hiking along the almost five miles of oceanfront and nature trails, swimming in the designated area with access to a beachside bathhouse and refreshment stand during the summer months, picnicking at one of the many sites available to guests with charcoal grills and picnic tables, educational fort tours and fishing from the beach. At this time of year, fishing starts slowly as the temperatures rise. You can expect to find flounder, bluefish, red drum and various other species that return this time of year. As spring turns to summer and the weather stabilizes,

The titular fort was used during the 18th, 19th and 20th centuries as a garrison and federal prison before it was closed by the federal government in 1903.

DESTINATION: FORT MACON STATE PARK LOCATION: ATLANTIC BEACH, N.C. DISTANCE: 75 MILES TIME: 1 HOUR 32 MINUTES ADDRESS: 2303 E. FORT MACON RD.

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fishermen can expect to find black drum, spot, flounder, bluefish, pompano, red drum and sea mullet. In addition to these fish, Fort Macon State Park is home to hundreds of different species of wildlife. Birds are especially prevalent and can be seen throughout the year as different breeds migrate through the park. Fort Macon State Park is open to visitors year round with a few exceptions. Visit the park’s website for more information regarding seasonal hours, rules and regulations and visitor policies. ⋇

Historical accuracy is important to those at Fort Macon State Park, meaning most of the items within and surrounding the fort are actual artifacts from the fort’s history.

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ADVERTISER INDEX Adams & Associates

Kari Hall, Century 21

Beaufort County Schools

Langley Contracting

Bertie Ambulance Service

Mauri E. Alligood - State Farm Insurance

Bertie Peanuts

Nan McClendon - The Rich Co.

Big Bargain Furniture

15, 37

Norman’s Home Furnishings

Bloom Women’s Apparel

O’Neals Drug Store

Carolina Wind Yacht Brokerage

Percision Eye Care

Century 21 Real Estate

Ryan Whitford - AssureVest Insurance Group

Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty

Sloan Insurance

Crisp RV Center

Stewart’s Jewelry Store

Daughtridge Patio

The Rich Company

East Coast Radiator

Tideland EMC

Eastern Dermatology, Nita Lee

Truist Wealth

Eastern Radiology

United Country Respess Real Estate

Executive Personnel Group

Vidant Health Systems

Feyer Ford

Washington Funeral Home

First Bank Wealth Management

Washington Montessori Public Charter School

Gail Kenefick - Coastal Rivers Realty

W. Nicholson Interiors

Jones & Sasnett, P.A.

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MAY/JUNE 2021 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 65

WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON

Coming back HOME

WRITTEN BY ROBIN McKEITHAN | PHOTO BY STEVE BARNES

hy I love Washington? This is a question I often think about and wonder what is it that makes Washington so special. Whenever I go out of town and someone finds out I am from Washington there is always a connection. My husband always wonders how that is possible. I grew up in Washington and graduated from Washington High School. I had the best high school experience, and those friends are still some of my best friends today. I love that our sons are graduates of Washington High School and had the same experience I did. There is nothing like small town pride in watching sports teams go to State Championships and the support they feel whether they win or lose. I love seeing friends I grew up with in town. My eye doctor, dentist and attorney are all old childhood friends. I love being able to reminisce whenever I am in their office — I love talking with them about our fun times growing up – skiing and sailing on the Pamlico or the fun we had at Stunt Night and Homecoming. I also love meeting the many new people that have moved here and now call Washington home. Washington is truly a special place, whether you have been here all your life or are a new resident. I work at the Chamber of Commerce and Visitor Center and I enjoy talking with people who are visiting or relocating to Washington. Most everyone remarks that our town is a hidden gem and that the people are so friendly. I totally agree. Washington is a small town and what that means to me is that we support one another. When you go through tough

times the community is there to support you. When you leave your child at the soccer field, there is someone there to bring them home. I love being at church or out in the community, and when I see people who watched my children grow up, they always ask about them. I love seeing the volunteers and nonprofits that support our community.

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There is nothing like seeing groups of volunteers come together to help people in your community. I told my husband, Ray, when we moved back to Washington almost 20 years ago that if he took me home, he would never get me to leave. Washington is my forever home and we are here to stay! ⋇

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68 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE MAY/JUNE 2021