Washington the Magazine Sept. | Oct. 2018 by Washington Daily News

DEEP ROOTS Explore Washington’s hidden history

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 WASHINGTON, NORTH CAROLINA SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 1

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In this issue

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS TOWN HISTORY 29

SONGS OF FREEDOM: Museum shares history of Underground Railroad

29 DEEP ROOTS 36

IN EVERY ISSUE 8 10 24 20 50 52 59 62 66

Publisher’s Note The Scene Spotlight What's in Store Cast a Line What's to Eat Calendar Dining Guide Why I Love Washington

THE GROWING BUSINESS: Washington native returns to follow an organic farming dream

36 TRAVEL & LEISURE 44

GETAWAY: Though close, Portsmouth Island is a world away

ON THE COVER PAMLICO FAVORITES 52

CULINARY ARTS: “Plate and Palette” stands the test of taste — and time

Leesa and Milton Jones stand outside of the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum, dressed in period clothes accurate to the 19th Century. Together, the two educate hundreds of visitors to the museum each year on the significance Washington played in the Underground

52 6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Railroad. Page 29. (Photograph by Michelle Hooper)

Publisher Ashley Vansant Editorial Matt Debnam Sean Finnerty Vail Stewart Rumley Contributors Richard Andrews Chris Donahue Michelle Hooper Advertising Director David Singleton Marketing & Sales Cecilia Prokos Taylor Shamberger Amy Whitaker Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Elizabeth Reed Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2018, Washington Newsmedia, LLC.

A NOTE FROM ASHLEY

A HISTORIC MOMENT

ver the past eight years of Washington the Magazine’s publication, its writers have often focused on singular theme that drives each issue. Rarely has a theme appeared so serendipitously as in the September/ October issue. This issue is about history and the deep roots that burrow into the soil of Washington and the surrounding county — how they framed connections to places that seem like they’re a world away. In a dark time in the South’s history, Washington stood as a beacon of light for those seeking freedom on the Underground Railroad. Its waterfront became a portal into a new world; its people well-versed in signaling safe routes for escaped slaves. Learn about Washington’s role in the “Songs of Freedom” Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum co-founder Leesa Jones is singing on page 29. Returning to one’s roots, especially when those roots grow deep in Beaufort County soil, is the story behind “Deep Roots.” Read about the life of organic farmers Will Roberson and wife Tabitha, along with daughters Isabel and Madeline, who returned to Washington to add their organic harvest to the area’s rich farming tradition. Meet the Robersons on page 36. Two centuries ago, if it traveled to Washington, it likely came by way of

Portsmouth Island. The village, once a thriving community founded on lightening cargo ships from across the world as they made their way to inland waters, is now on the National Register of Historic Places. Where parts of its village are preserved on the north end of the island, the south is untouched, home to fishermen year ‘round and truly a place to get away from it all. Read about a fall camping experience unlike any other by one of our very own writers on page 44. The arts have long been an important part of local culture; the culinary arts have been the same. The two combined created one of the most successful fundraisers in the history of the Beaufort County Arts

Council, now Arts of the Pamlico. On page 52, learn about the cookbook that preserves for posterity both the works of prominent local artists and recipes passed down through generations, and how you can get your own. Washington is defined by history — its structures and stories, its traditions and people. I count myself fortunate to live in place where history is nearly impossible to miss and always fun to discover.

Ashley Vansant, Publisher

We would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine. 8 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

THE SCENE AOP PHOTOGRAPHY SHOW OPENING RECEPTION A number of the area’s top photographers were recognized during a special reception at Arts of the Pamlico on Aug. 1. Winners of the nonprofit’s 2018 Photography Competition were honored, and the reception marked the opening of three exhibits at AOP during the month of August. In addition to the photography exhibit, the Turnage Theatre also hosted the works of LaRue Haddock and Pamela Randall, as well as Sam Ezell.

LaRue Haddock and Pamela Randall

Dot Moate, M.J. Peters, Paul Harding and Susan Bracken

10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Monica Ferrari and Elizabeth Miller

Melonie Grooms, Savannah Akins and Ashley Akins

Michael, Patrick and Catherine Tahini

Thad Aley and Shannon Shuler-Gaskins

Lisa and David Carraway

Karl Chiang and Ginger Gehres

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 11

THE SCENE BLACKLANDS FARM MANAGERS TOUR Farmers and those invested in the businesses supporting them gathered at 3-B Farms for the Blacklands Farm Managers Tour on Aug. 1. Hosted at the Boyd family farm in Pinetown, participants learned about the latest technologies available to farmers of soybeans and corn, visited the fields with leading experts and shared a meal at the decadesold, annual event.

Jeff Sparks, Chris Harris

Lee Brimmage, Lance Grimes, Natalie Wayne, Jarrett Hurry, Andrea Gibbs, Christie Bell, Rebecca Liverman

12 â&#x20AC;¢ WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Bradley Boyd, Doug Boyd

Michael Lee, Garrett Boyd, James Shuler

Tammy Boyd, Sarabeth Boyd, Amanda Boyd

James Marsh, Reid Gelderman

Kellie Luton and Sam Bowden

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 13

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THE SCENE WASHINGTON YACHT & COUNTRY CLUB TOURNAMENT Washington Yacht & Country Club began what may well become a new tradition on the weekend of Aug. 4 - 5, hosting the inaugural WYCC Cup, a new two-day stroke play event. The event was open to members, with prizes awarded for lowest gross and net scores on the course. Winners in the various categories were Paul Manning, Mike Freeman, John Rodman and Adrian Waters.

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Adrian Waters, Thomas Waters and Larry Everett

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Bobby Hardy, John Rodman and Mark Tomlinson

Andrew Galbraith, Paul Manning, Mike Freeman, John Rodman and Adrian Waters

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 17

THE SCENE "THE THREE" OPENING NIGHT Every August, Contemporary Art Exchange highlights three of the area’s up-and-coming young artists in a show known as “The Three.” This year’s show marked the inaugural event for the gallery, featuring works from Gunnar Storm Hardt, Alan Obarowski and Madeleine Correa. On Aug. 10, community members came from far and wide to support the young artists in their endeavors.

Penny Paul and Damon Walcott

Dr. Dorcas O’Rourke and Dr. Cecile Baccanale

Dewey and Barbara Walker

Keith, Gunnar and Crystal Hardt

18 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Mary Belle and Evie Johnson

Sonia Privette, Mike Privette and Rebecca Paul

Andy Olsen and Rebecca Spain

Sheri Dean and Sue Kammers

Ann and Jim Elrod

Samuel Patti and Gunnar Hart

Steve and Barbara Brodie

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 19

WHAT'S IN STORE

A piece of

Washington WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY ELIZABETH REED

Take me anywhere Keep track of your vacation days while at work with this nifty calendar. The calendar covers all your vacation dreams in a fun illustrative manner. From Italy to Argentina, it will add a whimsical, decorative touch to your workplace environment. World calendars can be found at the Purple Plume in downtown Washington for (a.) $16.

20 â&#x20AC;¢ WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Fishing for fashion b.

A statement piece to be added to any outfit ready for the river in autumn. Handmade by Suesea Jewelry, a 14-karat gold-filled sailfish with dichroic glass sits on a 14-karat gold rope chain. The necklace (b.) can be found at Lemonade Art Gallery for $400.

Part of the family Keep friendly reminders around the house of your furry friend with pillows or picture frames. Add to your country chic dĂŠcor and display your love for your dog. Both can be found at Cottage Junkies in downtown Washington. Pillow (c.) $24.95, best dog ever frame (d.) $25.95

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;˘ 21

Planned out Don’t miss a beat for school or work. This handy planner won’t let you forget your week ahead. It’s perfect for keeping notes and scheduling for students. Stay organized! Find yours at the Purple Plume in downtown Washington. Planners come in a variety of designs (e.) $34.

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His and her Tailgate outfits can be found in downtown Washington at Russell’s. Show your team pride in ECU Peter Millar collegiate wear. Peter Millar ¼–zip pullover, iron (g.) is $98 and pairs nicely with the ECU button down, purple checker shirt (h.) $125. Stay cool in Peter Millar black shorts (i.) $85. Her outfit is just eye-catching with Southern Tide performance fabric, red mini stripe dress (j.) for $128. Accessorize with a stone necklace (k.) $96.

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SPOTLIGHT

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

hey’re a Sunday school teacher and an artist; a former elected official, a teacher, a housewife, an alto in the choir — they are pillars of the community who are standing for a cause, “taking it off” and putting on a fundraiser like none other. The Pamlico Pin-ups calendar will be launched with a splash at an October release party at Arts of the Pamlico’s Turnage Theatre. The goal: to raise as much money as possible for Open Door Community Center, a shelter for homeless women and children, through 2019 calendar sales. The means, however, garnered quite a few second looks from passersby as these 10 ladies posed for the calendar’s pages at some of Beaufort County’s most recognizable landmarks: the historic home, now bed and breakfast, Elmwood; the mill wheel at Havens Gardens; the Aurora Fossil Museum; the Turnage Theatre and more. Bettie Bonner Bradshaw, Carol Clark, Susan Dawson, Rosalyn Edwards, Ann Flanagan, Emma

24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Howard, Virginia Jenks, Jane McCotter, Sue Nicholson and Mary LLew Robertson all volunteered as Pamlico pin-ups for the calendar guaranteed to make waves, while stylist Jeffery Phipps and print-coordinator Jackie Everett propped them up behind the scenes. Along the way — on the AuroraBayview ferry included — they’ve had a blast. “I never thought I’d get to this age and laugh as much as I have,” Nicholson said of the experience. Calendars are priced at $15 and can be purchased after the launch party at Arts of the Pamlico, local real estate offices, the WashingtonBeaufort County Chamber of Commerce and more locations to be announced. These Pamlico Pin-ups may raise a few eyebrows with what appear to be risqué photos; they also stand to raise a lot of money for a worthwhile cause: a safe place for women and children to call home. The public is invited to the Pamlico-Pinups reception from 5:30 to 7 p.m. Oct. 4 at the Turnage Theatre in Washington. ⋇

The Pamlico Pin-ups take a breather between shots at Bonner’s Point in Bath. The 2019 calendar is a fundraiser for Open Door Community Center, a homeless women’s and children’s shelter in Washington.

The Pamlico Pin-ups pose for a group shot at in on the Aurora-Bayview ferry. The 2019 calendar is a fundraiser for Open Door Community Center, a homeless women’s and children’s shelter in Washington.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 25

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Museum Director Leesa Jones arranges one of the displays housed in the caboose that houses the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum.

28 â&#x20AC;¢ WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

SONGS OF

freedom MUSEUM SHARES HISTORY OF THE UNDERGROUND RAILROAD

STORY BY MATT DEBNAM | PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHELLE HOOPER

t the corner of West Main and Gladden streets in Washington, a bright orange train caboose holds generations of knowledge. Telling the story of the men and women who passed through the Washington area on the Underground Railroad, the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum offers a pictorial history of the methods and codes used by escaped slaves to find their freedom. From oral histories passed down through the ages, to exhibits on the daily lives of enslaved people and their bids for freedom, the museum holds a wealth of information, exposing visitors and residents of Washington to a side of history which might otherwise be overlooked. THE ART OF STORYTELLING When museum co-founder Leesa Jones was a little girl, she remembers hearing her grandmother and other women gather to talk and tell tales. At the time, she thought those stories were nothing more than old stories. As it turned out, many of the old stories and songs she heard as a child help tell the story of the Underground Railroad here in Washington. With a lack of primary sources on the subject from the time, oral history and tradition both play a large role in telling the stories of the freedom seekers who passed through the area. “Because a lot of people did not keep records that they could share, most of the history is oral,” Jones said. “What we tell here, that is oral history we can collaborate with other sources.” Particularly useful as a source of collaboration were a series of oral histories recorded by workers with the Works Project Administration in

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 29

the 1920s and ’30s. In many instances, the same stories show up in records throughout the country, allowing historians to corroborate certain aspects of oral history and traditions. “When you have oral history, you want to collaborate it,” Jones said. “I hear great stories all the time, but I try to find some research that can work with it.” In her travels, Jones often seeks out university libraries as a source of corroborating research, a means of giving further credence to the stories and tales that make up the oral history of the Underground Railroad.

From examples of plants grown and used locally during the 19th century, to the tools used to process said crops, the museum offers an opportunity to learn how our ancestors lived.

Just outside the museum, a North Carolina historical marker commemorates the contributions of African Americans who defended Washington during the Civil War. 30 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

WHY WASHINGTON? When it came to thoroughfares on the Underground Railroad, Washington served as a destination for freedom seekers from throughout the state and region. The main reason for this influx was simple: a bustling waterfront created a wealth of opportunities for runaways to find passage to their next destination. The Tar-Pamlico itself came to be known as The Alley, a designation that allowed freedom seekers to know which route they were using. One traditional misconception about the Underground Railroad is that freedom seekers always sought to travel north. In some instances, the escaped would seek out loved ones who had been sold and separated. In others, they might sail for Florida or the Caribbean. Many who passed through Washington actually traveled up the Tar River to a place near Tarboro called Shiloh Landing, one of the largest cotton ports in the south, from which they could sometimes find loved ones or passage to their next destination. Adding to the convenience of the waterfront, the area was also home to a number of abolitionists, both black and white, who would offer assistance to those seeking their freedom. The community of Keysville, which still exists today, was established just east of the present day Vidant Beaufort Hospital and was known as a place where runaway slaves could find assistance.

100 DOLLARS REWARD WILL BE GIVEN for his head, or the same if delivered alive to me. HARRY is a stout well made fellow about five feet six or seven inches high, small eyes, and an impudent look; he took with him when he absconded two coats, one grey and the other blue, and a home made suit of winter clothes, together with some other articles

A critical piece of documentary evidence in telling

of clothing, not recollected.

the story of the Underground Railroad, newspaper advertisements offering rewards for escaped slaves

JOHN Y BONNER.

can reveal much about those who fled bondage.

Near Washington, July 10, 1818 In addition to the cruel terms

WHAT’S IN AN AD?

offered for Harry’s head, this ad

One of the most prolific types of primary sources available to historians studying the

also shows the planning and the

Underground Railroad, runaway slave advertisements can often provide a wealth of

items he took with him to endure

information on the individuals who ran away, including their names, physical descriptions,

the long road to freedom.

supposed destinations and means of escape.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31

The many exhibits on the train car walls offer a wealth of knowledge on the area’s past and the vital role the Washington waterfront played in helping freedom seekers find liberation.

“Keysville was owned by free African Americans since 1836. Southey or Southby Keais, an African American, FOX AND RABBIT RIDING, RIDING, RIDING brought the land from William Orrell in June FOX AND RABBIT RIDING UPON A SUMMER’S DAY 1836,” Jones said. “Even after the Civil War, Southey was still buying land from some WHAT ARE YA COMING HERE FOR, HERE FOR, HERE FOR? of Washington’s notables such as Isaiah WHAT ARE YA COMING HERE FOR, UPON A SUMMER’S DAY? Respess. Southey’s brother Isaiah Keais brought land in 1937 from Benjamin Runyon, I’M COMING FOR TO GET MARRIED, MARRIED, MARRIED, adjoining his land to Southby’s properties to I’M COMING FOR TO GET MARRIED, ON A SUMMER’S DAY expand the land.” In addition to Keysville, there were also approximately 143 plantations in the greater WHO DO YOU THINK WOULD HAVE YOU, HAVE YOU, HAVE YOU Washington area, which in some cases allowed WHO DO YOU THINK WOULD HAVE YOU, UPON A SUMMER’S DAY? — Fox & Rabbit Riding escaped people to blend in with the general population. INSTRUCTIONS IN THE MUSIC “When they got on that plantation, they may not have In many cases, seemingly innocent songs served as a been reported, as a lot of plantation owners saw it as means of conveying information crucial to facilitating flight. When the museum hosts groups for field trips, Jones and her fellow volunteers will often share the following songs as examples of how codes could be hidden in music.

32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

STRUTTING THROUGH THE ALLEY, ALLEY ALLEY, (HOLD YOUR HEAD UP, USE THE RIVER TO ESCAPE) STRUTTING THROUGH THE ALLEY ALL NIGHT LONG (THE SHIP WILL LEAVE AT NIGHT) THIS THE WAY YA BUZZ-A-BEE, BUZZ-A-BEE, BUZZ-A-BEE THIS THE WAY YA BUZZ-A-BEE, BUZZ-A-BEE, BUZZ-A-BEE (GET BUSY AS A BEE MAKING PREPARATIONS) JUMP BACK SALLY, SALLY, SALLY JUMP BACK SALLY, ALL NIGHT LONG (THE NAME OF THE SHIP IS THE SALLY) (THE NUMBER OF TIMES THE SONG WAS SUNG WOULD INDICATED THE NUMBER OF DAYS UNTIL THE SHIP SET SAIL) — Staffing through the Alley The classic hymn, “This Little Light of Mine” was used by abolitionists to instruct freedom seekers to look for a lantern in the window that would signify a house as a place where they could find some type of help.

A collection of literature at the museum’s entrance shows how authors over the years offer further reading for those interested in the topics of slavery and the Underground Railroad.

a slave they did not have to purchase,” Jones said. Another possibility for freedom seekers, the prevalence of cypress swamps and Washington’s proximity to the Great Dismal Swamp offered refuges in places where many whites feared to tread. According to Jones, many of the slaves brought over from West Africa had a genetic predisposition to Sickle Cell Anemia, and that same predisposition would have protected them from Yellow Fever. “When you go into the swamp, nobody’s going to really come to look for you, because you’ve got snakes and mosquitos,” Jones said. “There are

generations of people that still live in the Great Dismal Swamp.” CODES AND SONGS When a freedom seeker ran away, they did so at great personal risk. Punishments such as lashings, branding and all manner of gruesome retaliation were possible for those who were recaptured. Abolitionists, likewise, faced dire consequences if they were caught helping slaves escape. These risks led to the creation of elaborate codes and songs that would offer nuanced guidance for those seeking freedom. “Escaping freedom seekers didn’t write letters home, and they didn’t write journals, but they were able to pass on

things through use of codes,” Jones explained. A quilt hung out on the railing might communicate that freedom seekers should leave in a zig-zag pattern to avoid slave catchers. Another might communicate that the escaped should dress in their best clothes to pass for free blacks. Based on the patterns displayed, these quilts could share a variety of messages. Songs, likewise, could be used to communicate information to freedom seekers. For an analysis of three songs used on the Underground Railroad here in Washington, see the sidebar entitled “Instructions in the music.”

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33

On the waterfront, Jones tells one story about a woman selling vegetables. The woman might call out that she is selling rutabagas, telling slaves to try to “take the route of the beggars,” and try to blend in with the poor in order to evade capture. As far as how this information came to freedom seekers, Jones says that undercover abolitionists who came on plantations under the pretense of serving as midwives, blacksmiths and preachers would often convey the codes needed to escape. “Many of them would go on to the plantation, and after being there a while, if they discerned a slave would be willing to escape, they worked out certain codes or gave them ‘grapevine’ information that is coded information, an indirect telling of information you needed to know,” Jones said. “It’s a total trust factor, because the slave had to trust the abolitionist, and the abolitionist had to trust the slave.” DOCUMENTARY SOURCES Overall, there are few documentary sources detailing the escape of enslaved people in writing. One of the most prolific of these sources, however, are newspaper advertisements sharing information about runaway slaves and offering reward for their capture. In her research, Jones estimates she has collected more than 1,000 such advertisements. Listing information such as the person’s name, physical description, where they escaped from, what they were wearing, their means of travel and their possible plans and destination, these ads offer historians a glimpse of the actual people who made the flight to freedom. “This gets interwoven into the family’s history,” Jones said. “All of a sudden, all these old stories make a lot of sense. We corroborate the stories we hear and put them with the histories we can find.” The Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum held its grand opening at its current location in 2016, in partnership with the Washington Harbor District Alliance. Hours are from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., Thursdays through Saturdays and from 2 to 5 p.m. on Sundays, provided a volunteer is available. For more information on the museum, visit www. washingtonncblackhistory.com. ⋇

34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

With an estimated 143 plantations in the greater Washington area, abolitionists would appear under the pretense of being blacksmiths, preachers and midwives, sharing secret information with those seeking freedom.

Located on the corner of West Main and Gladden streets in Washington, the Washington Waterfront Underground Railroad Museum is open to visitors most weekends. Admission is free, but donations are appreciated.

The Greater Bath Foundation & Historic Town of Bath presents:

Bath Town’s Blackbeard Tri-Centennial Celebration October 19, 2018 - Turnage Theatre in Washington October 20, 2018 - Bonner’s Point in Bath

* Skydiving Exhibition * Pirate Encampment * Pirate Parade & Costume Contest * Battle of Bath Creek off Bonner’s Point * Sword Fighting Demonstration * Disney World’s Rusty Cutlass Band * Patriots - Family & Friends Reunion Tour

Facebook.com/Blackbeard300 / www.blackbeard300.com VENDORS NEEDED - FOOD & CRAFT

If you would like to be a sponsor or vendor for this event, please contact us at 252-943-7033 or 252-413-9517

36 â&#x20AC;¢ WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

THE

GROWING BUSINESS Really for us, it’s all about lifestyle. We eat great. We have fresh stuff every night and my kids love it. They pick blueberries for three months of the year; we’re all eating two pints of blueberries a day. Those little things add up. — Will Roberson

Located at 599 Mill Road, Deep Roots Farm is now in its second year of growing organic produce full-time. SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37

With approximately 21 acres of annual tillable land, Roberson does much of the work on the farm, while also receiving help from his wife, his parents and a part-time employee.

Washington native returns to follow an organic farming dream STORY BY SEAN FINNERTY | PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

Much has happened in Will Roberson’s life since he graduated from Washington High School in 1995. The Washington native earned a degree in horticulture at North Carolina State University after initially attending Barton College to play soccer; he worked a myriad of jobs in the nursery and flower industries; he married his wife, Tabitha, and they started their own organic farm in Chatham County, selling their produce at farmers’ markets in Raleigh and Pittsboro. But after nearly two decades of living in the North Carolina Piedmont, Roberson was ready for

38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

a change. The desire to be closer to his family and the water where he grew up brought the organic farmer back to Washington five years ago. Using the experience gained from opening an organic farm in the Piedmont, the Robersons started Deep Roots Farm, which began growing produce last year. “We had done it before in Chatham County, so we knew what we had to put in. We had to buy a tractor, we had to put a well in, we had to buy equipment. But it’s slow, and it’s painful. It’s fun, but you got to be ready. You get unexpected losses. It’s frustrating, but we’re in it for the long haul,”

Roberson said. “Really for us, it’s all about lifestyle. We eat great. We have fresh stuff every night and my kids love it. They pick blueberries for three months of the year; we’re all eating two pints of blueberries a day. Those little things add up.” As a small-scale organic vegetable and fruit farm, synthetic chemicals, including fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides and fungicides are not used at all at Deep Roots. Everything they use is plantbased. That means those chemicals aren’t ingested when eating their produce and there is no chemical runoff into the local waterways. “We don’t have run-off into the swamp. We have a big swamp behind here and we feel like we don’t have as much chemical run-off into it as we would if we were spraying and keeping our ditches clean with Roundup and the herbicides that are commonly used around here,” Roberson said. “You can test in the aquifer around here and atrazine is the commonest herbicide, it’s a corn herbicide they’ve been using for 40 years. It’s like it’s in our groundwater now. We just feel as small-scale producers, we can get away with (not using it). That’s just what we believe in.” Roberson became an advocate for growing organically after he was given the book “Silent Spring” roughly 25 years ago. Written by Rachel Carson, the book documents the adverse effects pesticides can have on the environment. “I got to reading about that stuff and looking at how common chemicals are in golf courses and people use them in their yards and don’t think twice about what they’re doing,” Roberson said. “I’ve always just been kind of scared of them and especially in food that we’re growing.” In its second year of growing fulltime,

After harvesting, Roberson brings his fresh produce to the weekly farmers’ market in downtown Washington.

As an organic farm, no synthetic chemicals, such as fertilizers, herbicides, pesticides and fungicides, are used at Deep Roots.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39

Deep Roots is very much a family-run operation, as Roberson is helped on the farm by his wife, Tabitha, his parents and a part-time worker. As a completely seasonal farm, the produce Deep Roots grows varies per season. The winter will see a variety of greens, like spinach, lettuce, kale and collards, being grown, whereas in the fall and spring, expect to see the Robersons bringing broccoli, beets, radishes, turnips and tri-colored carrots to the farmers’ market. In only its second year of operation,

Deep Roots is still growing and Roberson has plans of putting in new infrastructure, buying more equipment and hiring employees. Roberson believes the regrowth being seen in Washington matches nicely with small produce farms, such as his own. “I think there is a drive for that (fresh produce), certainly with the increase in population and the educated population that we get here in Washington as a bedroom community for professors at ECU and the hospital,” Roberson said.

40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

“We’re getting some good energy from Washington now that we didn’t have 20-30 years ago. And that’s driving the regrowth in downtown, with the bedand-breakfasts and the new hotels and restaurants and breathing in new energy in this place. I think that small produce and flowers and all that sort of goes hand in hand with it. We’d like to see a successful small farmers’ market and for the community to embrace it. We’re seeing that, and we believe in it. It’s exciting.” ⋇

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As a completely seasonal farm, the produce Deep Roots grows varies per season. Butternut squash and kabocha squash can be found on the farm during the summer months.

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2018 /JUNE NA MAY OLI E•1 TH CAR MAGAZIN NOR THE ON, TON NGT HING WASHI | WAS E 2018

/JUN MAY

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A fun and fabulous women's night out featuring delicious food, great music, a live auction and raffle for upscale designer handbags, jewelry and many specialty items. Enjoy a great evening of fashion and shopping with friends, while lending support to the United Way to help those in need.

Tickets may be purchased at www.unitedwaybc.net or at Washington/Beaufort County Chamber of Commerce.

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FOR MORE INFO: 252-975-6209 / 252-945-2148

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

o get to Portsmouth Island, you go to the end of North Carolina and hop on a ferry before the sun rises. Once there, you wait on hard-packed sand to let air out of tires and engage 4-wheel drive, because you’ll go no farther without it. From there, you step back in time: a time when beaches weren’t crowded with sun-worshippers; a time when the only people on a given stretch of shoreline were there with a purpose — to catch fish to put food on the table. There are no grocery stores on Portsmouth Island. There are no roads but one, an unpaved path carved by generations of vehicles plowing an inland route through sand and low brush. Cellphone reception is iffy for some, nonexistent for most.

Though close, Portsmouth Island is

G E TA

44 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

s a world away

WAY

The sign is deceptive: a ranger clarified that the road to Portsmouth Village is pretty much impassable with the average 4-wheel-drive truck.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 45

Cathy Bell (left) and Kathy Daniels celebrate their catch of the day, a red drum pulled from the surf.

For centuries, Portsmouth Island was a hub of activity, a place where cargo on heavy seagoing ships was unloaded to make ships lighter so they could cross through the shallow inlet and inland to deliver goods. A town was built around this duty: a church, stores, clapboard homes built to withstand unforgiving storms. In 1860, the population was 685. By 1971, it had dwindled to two people, Marion Babb and Elma Dixon, who’d only ever called the island home. Ultimately, they too would have to leave, unable to weather the diminished island life on their own. Today, Portsmouth Island feels like the end of the world. The National Park Service took it over in 1976, and its abandoned town preserved for history. Its current population is made up of summer tourists from Ocracoke on its northern

46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

point; fishermen, throughout the year on its southern shores, and, of course, mosquitos — lots of them. But its visitors are willing to put up with their persistent presence (and mosquito repellant) because Portsmouth Island is a getaway, and not in the “out-of-town-in-a-newplace” sense. It’s a getaway in that, much like the stalwart folk who cleaved out an existence there for centuries, you’re on your own. Five of us set off on this adventure in October 2017. Our goals were mixed — some came to fish; the rest, to rest and truly get away from it all. We started at the Harker’s Island Fishing Center, a barebones fish camp with charm dating back to JFK’s presidency. The wind howled through the night; temperature hovering

in the upper thirties. The wind, the cold — neither boded well for setting up camp on a beach, with little to protect you from the elements but undulating dunes carved by water and wind from each passing storm. The privately-owned ferry in Atlantic was loaded in the dark, the small vessel dipping beneath the weight of each oncoming vehicle. The ferry left the dock before dawn, crowded with trucks that bristled with rods, each anchored to the front grill with clear intention. A rising sun led the way across Core Sound; the island itself, spare with reeds, grasses and trees stunted by wind, barely rose above the horizon. Unloading took little time, and trucks disappeared from the ferry landing — some pulling up beside a Long Point rental, a camp of no-nonsense cabins just off the landing, others heading straight to the beach to set up camp. Here, neighbors give one another wide berth; a look in either direction shows no one and nothing but an expanse of sand, untouched but for the tread marks of trucks that came before, Carolina blue sk y and turquoise waves breaking into white foam over miles of shoreline. Indeed, the wind made setting up two-man tents a four-man job; a firepit became home to a roaring fire that edged away the chill. Dinner, heated on a propane grill, came from coolers stacked with fivedays-worth of meals. Then, nightfall, where stars lit the sky with heavenly light over an inkblack ocean, its constant roar a lullaby. Long walks on the beach with a sea of shells delineating the high-water mark, a continuously fed fire and reading in the shelter of a tent defined the second day. On the third, the weather took a turn for the better, as did the fishing. The wind whittled down to a breeze, the temperature climbed into the 70s. But

A firepit and a roaring fire were the first order of business on arrival at Portsmouth Island in October 2017. Mid-40s and gusting wind warmed up to 70s and sunny over the course of five days.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 47

Liane Harsh rides the last blast of summer, kayak surfing in the small shorebreak on Portsmouth Island. Few visitors see the pristine beach, now protected as part of the Cape Lookout National Seashore.

quick dips in a fall-chilled ocean, kayak surfing, yoga, taking in the last of the season’s warm sun, all took a back seat to a hefty red drum reeled in through churning surf to make for a fine evening meal. A tour up-island to find the village that once existed became the next day’s adventure: driving deep sand at ocean’s edge, past campers and rows of fishing rods, their lines extending far out into shore break, whose tenders hoped for drum, bluefish, pompano. Beach segued into a single-lane dirt path rollercoastering through the middle island, hemmed in by short cliffs of sand. Sand gave way to tall scrub that closed in on the truck and ended in swamp as far as could be seen. The sign said, “best route/straight through water/mostly 4 to 8" deep/hard bottom,” but a flat plain of water, edging into swamp reeds, said different. We decided not to risk the trip and were right to do so. A park ranger later told us the sign was not even close to truthful — more

48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

like 18-to-24-inch holes lay in wait beneath the water. Turning the truck around, with swamp creeping up both sides of the road and sucking on wide tires, was another adventure, in and of itself. It was a short adventure, in all, and one defined by a landscape unchanged by man, and a sky that seemed somehow bigger, its stars brighter than ever before, on that last night. There are few things more beautiful than Portsmouth Island at dawn, and again at sunset, when the diminished sun brushes a never-ending shore and its vast ocean with a palette of softest pastels. There are few things more humbling than standing in the footprints of our ancestors, knowing the view is unchanged from when they saw it last. And there is little more life-affirming than no other sound but that of laughter rising above the ocean’s roar, in a place where the world is whittled down to a small circle of firelight and a love of adventure. ⋇

Cabo takes a walk down the beach at sunset on Portsmouth Island. Sunset and sunrise, both, are a celebration of color in the fall.

CAST A LINE

FLEXIBILITY IS KEY TO CATCHING GIANT RED DRUM IN THE PAMLICO RIVER

STORY AND PHOTOGRAPH BY CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

he Pamlico and Pungo rivers and adjacent Pamlico Sound waters are home to one of the most spectacular spawning migrations along the Eastern Seaboard. There are few places where anglers so far from the Atlantic Ocean can catch 40-to-50-inch-plus red drum. We are really fortunate that these giant fish visit our river for their annual spawning migration in August and September. The red drum fishery in the sound has evolved from a surf fishery along the beaches using fresh cut bait such as mullet, to fishing for them off the banks and points in the sound with fresh cut bait, to fishing for them off out of an anchored boat with multiple rods using fresh cut bait, to riding and looking for signs of feeding fish and catching them on artificial baits, such as popping corks, rattling crank baits and topwater lures. This is really a unique story about how innovative fishermen have become and how the game has continually been finetuned over decades and countless hours chasing these majestic fish. In today’s fishery, most anglers target the giant red drum out of modern fast boats, using either fresh cut bait at night and during the day or using artificial baits. Both techniques can be effective; however, both techniques have their advantages and disadvantages. As a guide, I try to be as consistent as possible in producing fish, so I have adopted both methods as a means of catching them and use each technique under the appropriate conditions. The baitfishing method is particularly effective when it’s windy and rough and water is being pushed around by the wind. We don’t have lunar tides in the river, so

Richard Andrews shows off a giant red drum caught in the Pamlico River.

water movement is related to wind velocity and direction. High winds equal stronger current and more water movement. The opposite is true when it’s calm. The idea behind putting as many oily chunks of mullet (or other preferred species of baitfish) around your boat as possible is to get your scent traveling in a strategic horizontal direction through the water. If there’s no wind and no water movement, then your scent doesn’t travel as far. There are exceptions to this. I have had some really good days fishing with cut bait on calm days, but as a general rule, when it’s rough, put the anchor out and go to slinging some meat to ensure consistent success. The artificial bait method is the exact opposite. You want the conditions to be as calm as possible. The red drum respond very well to noise. Noisy baits, like popping corks and big topwater lures, get their attention from a distance. Most of the time, you are fishing some sort of visual indicator in open water, such as fish slicks, nervous bait schools on the surface, bird activity or a combination of those. To see all of this, slick calm conditions are ideal

50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

and a light chop is very fishable. When it starts to blow too much and it gets too choppy, you just can’t see the visual indicators anymore and I also believe the fish can’t hear your noisy bait as well. I have caught red drum on artificial lures when it’s been rough, but catch numbers are always better when it’s nice and calm. By taking advantage of both techniques and not being married to one over the other, you will be able to become more consistent at catching these trophy fish in our river during the spawning period in August and September. Giant red drum are caught outside of this timeframe; however, these two months always produce the best numbers of the year. If you are unfamiliar with the drag screaming runs of these giants, I encourage you to give us a call and set up your very own big fish adventure on the Pamlico. Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-9459715 or richard@tarpamguide.com. ⋇

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WHAT'S TO EAT

CULINARY ARTS “Plate and Palette” stands the test of taste — and time STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

t started as a way to raise money for the Beaufort County Arts Council. It’s become a go-to cookbook for some of the finest cooking to be had in Beaufort County. “Plate and Palette” is a combination of visual art and cooking artistry that has stood the test of time. The brainchild of longtime arts supporter Louise Lane, in 2000, the arts community banded together to create a cookbook of favorite recipes. “It was really a community effort,” said Sue Nicholson. “I have no idea how much money it raised.” Then-BCAC director Wanda Johnson sent out an unusual request to the arts council members: rather than a call for artists, it was a call for recipes. The result was countless contributions — favorite recipes, some of which date back generations. “Wanda put together a committee, and we all had different roles to play,” Nicholson said. Each category — appetizers, soups and salads, entrees and more — had a volunteer in place to wade through the recipes and cull out the best of the best. Nicholson was charged with overseeing the dessert category. That the

52 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

publisher, Wimmer, suggested every recipe included in the final version should be tested three times, provided ample opportunity for some fun, and delicious, get-togethers, she said. “We all gained about 15 pounds,” Nicholson laughed. “We had little recipe parties. We tried some, but not all.” There’s a disclaimer to that effect in the book, but, over the past 18 years, the recipes that made the final cut have gotten rave reviews. “I’ve made several things in there, but the shrimp and grits is the most popular one for us,” said former BCAC Executive Director Joey Toler. “It’s a book that really holds up. It’s a great cookbook. There’s hardly a recipe in there that includes a can of cream of mushroom or cream of chicken soup. It’s all good, homegrown ingredients.” Toler walked into BCAC with “Plate and Palette” already underway, and in his first few months, the culmination of months of work came in: the donated recipes, along with former First South Bank President Tom Vann’s contribution, photographs of the many pieces of art he’d purchased at BCAC’s Fine Arts Show through the years, used to delineate each section of the cookbook.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 53

LEMON GLAZED PORK CHOPS Leah Pyburn 4 to 6 pork chops; 1 tablespoon all-purpose flour; 1/2 teaspoon salt; 1/4 teaspoon pepper; 2 tablespoons oil; 1 tablespoon soy sauce; 1/4 brown sugar; 2 teaspoons cornstarch; 1/4 white vinegar; 1/4 honey; 3 tablespoons lemon juice; 1/2 cup chopped onions. In plastic bag, shake chops and flour, salt and pepper. Brown on both sides. Pour off excess grease. In a small bowl, combine all other ingredients except onion. Pour over the chops, sprinkle onions over all, cover and simmer 15 to 20 minutes. If it thickens too much during cooking, add a little water. (Yield: 4 to 6 servings) **Just a hint of sweet citrus makes these pork chops delicious!

The plan for a grand reception for the book on “We have gotten rave reviews over the years,” Sept. 17, 2001, was almost derailed by the worst Nicholson said. American tragedy since Pearl Harbor, 9-11. But For Toler and husband Ned, it’s Nancy Winfrey’s staff and members and all the volunteers who’d recipe for Sauteed Shrimp with Cheese Grits that’s spent countless hours contributing to the project become a go-to favorite. Nicholson said there are decided to move forward with it. far too many great recipes included to single out “We mulled, ‘Should we continue with this?’ and just one. While many of those who worked on we decided to go ahead,” Toler said. “It was a great “Plate and Palette” and contributed have moved on, opening.” “Plate and Palette” remains, a work of culinary art “People could sample the recipes. We had the by Beaufort County Arts Council — now Arts of cookbook open to the page of the recipe and people the Pamlico. just loved it,” Nicholson said. “They’re really good Good news is there are copies still available recipes from old-fashioned cooks, but also the art at AOP’s Turnage Theatre home, but until “Plate is so charming in it.” and Palette” makes its way onto your cookbook The reception to “Plate and Palette” was shelf, here are a few greats — both new and exceptional, and a second printing of the book favorites from past Washington magazines — to followed. tide you over. ⋇

54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

BLUEBERRY ALMOND COFFEE CAKE Jeanne Van Staalduinen 1 1/2 cups butter; 3 cups sugar; 4 eggs; 3 cups all-purpose flour; 1 tablespoon vanilla; 2 tablespoons almond extract; pinch of salt; 2 cups of blueberries; sliced almonds. Cream butter and sugar. Add eggs. Add flour, vanilla, almond extract and salt. Mix well. Gently fold in blueberries. Pour in greased 9 by 13-inch pan. Sprinkle with sugar and sliced almonds. Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes or until done. (Yield: 15 servings) **Fans of biscotti will love this one: it tastes just like it, only without the crunch.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;¢ 55

CRAB MEAT AND ASPARAGUS Gloria Fentress Beaufort County Arts Council

1 pound crab meat; 2 tablespoons butter; 1/2 cup dry sherry; 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour; 2 cups light cream; salt and pepper; 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen asparagus; 1 cup whipping cream, whipped; 4 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese. Saute crab lightly in butter. Add sherry and simmer until reduced by one-half. Add flour and then cream, stirring constantly until thickened. Add seasonings. Fork stir, keeping crab in lumps. Cook and drain asparagus. Place asparagus in bottom of a buttered casserole. Pour crab mixture over asparagus. Spread with whipped cream. Sprinkle with cheese and brown under low heat. (Note: You may use two cans of asparagus.) **This recipe makes a wonderful side dish for steaks hot off the grill!

SAUTEED SHRIMP WITH CHEESE GRITS Nancy Winfrey Grits

1 1/2 cups chicken broth; 1 1/2 cups milk; 3/4 cups quick grits; 1/4 salt; 1 cup shredded cheese. Shrimp

1 cup diced bacon; 1 pound medium shrimp, peeled and deveined; 1/2 cup thinly sliced strips green bell pepper; 1/2 cup thinly sliced strips red bell pepper; 1/2 cup slivered onion; sliced green onions and shredded cheese for garnish; Tabasco sauce. To prepare grits, bring chicken broth and milk to a boil in large saucepan. Stir in grits and salt; return to a boil. Cover and reduce heat to low. Cook 5 minutes until thickened,

56 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

stirring occasionally. Stir in cheddar cheese. Keep warm. To prepare shrimp dish, cook bacon in skillet until crisp. Remove from skillet and drain back on paper towels; set aside. Drain all but 2 tablespoons drippings from skillet. Add shrimp, peppers and onion; cook until vegetables are tender and shrimp turns pink, about 3 to 5 minutes. Season with Tabasco sauce. Stir in bacon. Serve shrimp mixture over warm cheese grits. Garnish with chopped green onions and shredded cheddar cheese. (Yield: 6 servings) **This is one of former Beaufort County Arts Council Executive Director Joey Toler’s favorite recipes. It’s easy — and delicious!

SPINACH AND ARTICHOKE CASSEROLE Athy Cooper Plate & Palette, Arts of the Pamlico, Washington

1 (8-ounce) package of cream cheese; 1 stick of butter; 2 tablespoons lemon juice; 1 (14-ounce) can artichoke hearts, cut up; 3 (10-ounce) boxes of frozen spinach, cooked and drained; breadcrumbs; grated cheese. Mix cream chess and butter in pan on low heat. Add lemon juice. When this has all melted, add spinach and artichokes and mix well. Place in 2-quart casserole. Top with breadcrumbs and grated cheese. Bake at 350 degrees until bubbling. Yield: 8 servings. **Yum! This casserole makes a great side dish for everything from baked chicken to grilled red meats. It can also double as a dip, served with pita chips.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE â&#x20AC;˘ 57

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SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 3, 2018 6:30 - 11:00 PM

AT THE CIRCLE B TRAIL BARN 512 LENNINGTON LANE IN WASHINGTON NC

Kick up your heels for Arts of the Pamlico!

Sponsored by:

Enjoy a night of home cookin’ and foot-stompin’ action with Music by DJ Divine. TICKETS PER PERSON $35 CASH/CHECK $37 CREDIT CARD/PAYPAL • CASH BAR

artsofthepamlico.org | 252-946-2504 150 W. Main Street | Washington NC

OUT & ABOUT

CALENDAR SEPTEMBER

ALL MONTH BCTMA Jams Turnage Theatre Thursday night/Saturday morning jams. Open jam Thursday night from 6:30 to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play. There is no admission fee. Sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. For more information, visit www.bctma. org/ or call 252-946-2504.

Farmers’ Market

Downtown Washington The Farmers’ Market is fun for the whole family. It is a great place to spend the morning talking with local farmers or maybe searching for a unique present. Our market features local growers of fresh fruit, vegetables, plants and flowers. You never know what might find, the products are always changing! Saturdays from 8 a.m. to noon. Call 252-947-1487 for more information.

Rock the Pamlico Turnage Theatre Tuesday night jam sessions from 6:30-8:30 p.m. Join area musicians in this great jam set to some of the best rock music! Free. Call 252-946-2504.

River Roving Tours NC Estuarium Learn about the history and habitats of the Washington waterfront. These boat tours

cruise the Pamlico River Wednesdays through Fridays at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., and Saturdays at 10:30 a.m. No admission fee or other cost is involved for the tour, but advance reservations are required. Riders should check in 15 minutes in advance. Children must be at least 6 years old to ride; a responsible adult must accompany children under 16. Call 252-948-0000 for reservations. Go to www. partnershipforthesounds.net/ for information.

Washington Visitors Center at the foot of Market Street. For more information call Terry Rollins at 252-402-8595.

Sept. 9

Broadway on the Big Screen Turnage Theatre “Company,” 2 p.m. Neil Patrick Harris stars in this story of a bachelor struggling to understand marriage from his diverse and frequently hilarious friends. Free, with a suggested donation of $5. 252-946-2504.

Sept. 2

NSCA Fun Shoot Hunters’ Pointe Sporting Clays Call 252-975-2529 or go to www.hunterspointenc.com/ Events.html for more information.

Sept. 7

“Rocky Horror Picture Show” Turnage Theatre Come in costume and join in the Time Warp at this annual showing of “Rocky Horror Picture Show.” Audience participation kits for sale, as are refreshments. Prizes given for best costumes. 9pm. $15. Call 252-946-2504.

Sept. 8

Washington Haunts: The Historic Ghost Walk Downtown Washington 8 p.m. The ghost walk is a 90-minute walk through three centuries of supernatural occurrences in the oldest town named for George Washington. Tickets are $15 per person. Cash only. No reservations. Meet at Harding Square, beside the

Sept. 13

Variety Show Turnage Theatre A monthly event sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association, featuring local guest musicians. 7 p.m. Free, donations suggested.

Seniors Dance Washington Civic Center Singles and couples over 50 are welcome to come and dance the night away. 7 p.m., admission is $8; 50/50 drawing; door prizes; no alcohol/no smoking/no children.

Sept. 20

Chatham Rabbits Turnage Theatre 7 p.m. A folk duo from known for their mesmerizing, earnest music. Sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. www.gobcca.org.

Sept. 22

Pickin’ on the Pamlico Festival Park

5:30 p.m. The popular crab festival held every year at Washington’s picturesque Festival Park on the riverfront. All the blue crab you can crack and eat, live music, shrimp, fried chicken, sides, beer/wine, door prizes, auction. Call 252-947-1487 for tickets or visit whda.org for more information.

Sept. 25

“Searching for a Fix” Turnage Theatre 7:30 p.m. A powerful, hour-long documentary that details North Carolina’s addiction epidemic. Produced by WRAL. 252-9462504.

Sept. 28

Movie Night Turnage Theatre “A Hard Day’s Night” (1964), 7:30 p.m. Watch this classic, musical comedy film starring the Beatles. Tickets are $10. Call 252946-2504.

Sept. 29

Hands on Art Festival Festival Park 11 a.m. This annual festival introduces everyone interested to art with hands-on opportunity and fun crafts for children. Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

Live Theatre Turnage Theatre 6:30 p.m. Arts of the Pamlico presents “Nunsense,” a musical comedy starring local talent. Dinner at 6:30 p.m.; show starts at 7:30 p.m. Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 59

OUT & ABOUT Sept. 30

Live Theatre Turnage Theatre 2:30 p.m. Arts of the Pamlico presents “Nunsense,” a musical comedy starring local talent. Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

OCTOBER

ALL MONTH BCTMA Jams Turnage Theatre Thursday night/Saturday morning jams. Open jam Thursday night from 6:30 t o 8 : 3 0 p . m . a n d eve r y Saturday morning from 10 a . m . to 1 p. m . M u s i c i a n s and fans are encouraged to attend and play. There is no admission fee. Sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. For more information, visit www.bctma. org/ or call 252-946-2504.

Farmers’ Market

Rock the Pamlico Turnage Theatre Tuesday night jam sessions from 6:30-8:30 p.m. Join area musicians in this great jam set to some of the best rock music! Free. Call 252-946-2504.

River Roving Tours NC Estuarium Learn about the history and habitats of the Washington waterfront. These boat tours cruise the Pamlico River Wednesdays through Fridays at 10:30 a.m. and 1:30 p.m., and Saturdays at 10:30 a.m. No admission fee or other cost is involved for the tour, but advance reservations are required. Riders should check in 15 minutes in advance. Children must be at least 6 years old to ride; a responsible adult must accompany children under 16. Call 252-948-0000 for reservations. Go to www. partnershipforthesounds.net/ for information.

Oct. 4

Pamlico Pinups

Call 252-944-3446 for more information or go online www. alznc.org/washingtonwalk2018.

Oct. 7

Frank Sinatra Tribute

Turnage Theatre Launch party for the 2019 Pamlico Pin-ups calendar — a fundraiser for Open Door Community Center. 5:30 – 7 p.m.

Turnage Theatre “It Was a Very Good Year,” time TBA. A tribute to Frank Sinatra, starring Tony Sands. Call 252-946-2504 for tickets or go to www.artsofthepamlico.org.

Oct. 5

Oct. 11

U.S. Air Force Jazz Ensemble Turnage Theatre 7:30 p.m. Listen to the men and women of the U.S. Air Force play jazz favorites at this free concert. Call 252-946-2504.

Oct. 6

14th-annual Alzheimer’s Walk & Education Fair First Baptist Church 9 a.m. Registration for the walk 9-10 a.m.; walk begins 10:30 a.m. Individuals and teams are welcome! Education Fair, 9 a.m. to noon, experts and free materials for anyone needing information about Alzheimer’s disease or other dementias. Fair attendees do not have to walk.

60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

Seniors Dance Washington Civic Center Singles and couples over 50 are welcome to come and dance the night away. 7 p.m., Admission is $8; 50/50 drawing; door prizes; no alcohol/no smoking/no children.

Variety Show Turnage Theatre A monthly event sponsored by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association, featuring local guest musicians. 7 p.m. Free, donations suggested.

Outboards return to the Turnage Theatre on Oct. 12 in the gallery. Tickets are $10 cash or $12 credit card/Paypal. Concessions for sale. 252-946-2504.

Harbor District Fall Art Walk Downtown Washington 6-8 p.m. Local artwork, new artists and receptions featured in the downtown Washington art galleries located in the Harbor District. Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

Oct. 13

Darleen’s Flamingo 5K Belhaven 9 a.m. The 8th-annual Darleen’s Flamingo 5K’s net proceeds and donations will again benefit the Shepard Cancer Foundation in Washington in honor of Darleen Smith. Visit runsignup. com/Race/NC/Belhaven/ DarleensFlamingo5K

I.C. Improv Comedy Turnage Theatre 7 p.m. Washington’s own comedy troupe, I.C. Improv, provides a laugh a minute. Audience participation encouraged. $5. Call 252-9462504 for more information.

Oct. 18

BCTMA Concert Turnage Theatre 7 p.m. Beaufort County Traditional Music Association presents bluegrass wonders “Shannon Baker and the Classic Stepbacks.” Free. 252-946-2504.

Oct. 19-20

Oct. 12

The Outboards Turnage Theatre 7:30 p.m. Indy, rock band The

Smoke on the Water Waterfront Washington 5 p.m. The smell of downeast barbecue fills the air in Downtown

OUT & ABOUT Washington on the Pamlico River. This family festival features barbecue and chili cook-offs, a 5K run, music, children’s activities and artisans’ market! Call 252-944-6136 for more information or visit smokeonthewater. info/.

Oct. 20

Blues & Jazz Festival on the Waterfront Stewart Parkway 11 a.m. An Arts of the Pamlico sponsored event, held in conjunction with Smoke on the Water. Call Arts of the Pamlico at 252-946-2504 for more information.

NC Circuit Shoot Hunters’ Pointe Sporting Clays Call 252-975-2529 or go to www. hunterspointenc.com/Events.html for more information.

Oct. 25

“Not Fade Away” Turnage Theatre 7:30 p.m. Beaufort County Concert Association presents “Not Fade Away” and their tunes from the Buddy Holly era. Call 252-946-2504.

Oct. 26

Movie Night Turnage Theatre 7:30 p.m. “Beetlejuice” (1988), $5. Watch Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton and more dance to the tune of a entertainingly evil spirit. Call 252-9462504 for more information.

Oct. 27

Movie Matinee Turnage Theatre 2 p.m. “The Nightmare Before Christmas” (1993), $5. Tim Burton’s classic Christmas animated movie. Costume contest with prizes for adults and children. Call 252-946-2504 for more information.

Annual Humane Society Dinner and Auction Washington Civic Center 6 p.m. Annual fundraiser for the Humane Society of Beaufort County. Plenty of items to bid on to help the wonderful cause of taking care of local animals. For more information, call 252-946-1591.

Oct. 28

Broadway on the Big Screen Turnage Theatre 2 p.m. “Sweeney Todd,” a musical thriller. The unsettling tale of a Victorian-era barber who returns home to London after 15 years in exile to take revenge on the corrupt judge who ruined his life. Call 252946-2504.

Oct. 31

Downtown

you

Special Events for

September 9/21-22 Main Street Shop’n Stroll

Visit Downtown Washington for extended hours, refreshments, specials and prizes!

Educators and school support staff enjoy Month-Long Discounts and Opportunities to Win Prizes!

October

10/12 Main Street Shop’n Stroll & Art Walk Enjoy galleries, shopping, live demonstrations, live music and more until 8 pm!

10/19 Main Street Shop’n Stroll Visit Downtown Washington for extended hours, refreshments, specials and prizes!

10/20 Weekend Walkabout Not in the mood for football and chips? Come downtown for sales, refreshments and fantastic prizes!

Participating Merchants: West Main Street • Little Shoppes • The Bank Bistro & Bar • Patty Cakes • The Turnage Theatre • Secret Garden Gallery • Colleen Knight (RiverWalk) • Southern Grace Boutique • Southern Nest Antiques East Main Street • The Contemporary Art Exchange • A Beautiful Mess

DINING GUIDE

62 â&#x20AC;¢ WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

DINING GUIDE

Visit our newly expanded Carryout Store! Now offering even more delicious choices for lunch, dinner and parties! Hot/Cold Lunches & Dinners • Soups • Salads Baked Goods • Appetizers & Desserts Party Menu Planning & Catering Services NEW: Deli Case Fresh-Sliced Meats & Salads MONDAY TO FRIDAY 10-7 | SATURDAYS 9-2 | CLOSED SUNDAYS

128 E. 2ND STREET | WASHINGTON, NC | 252-623-2014

SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 63

DINING GUIDE

Petals & Produce Tue.-Fri. 9am - 5:30pm • Sat. 9am - 3pm 1101 John Small Avenue 19821 US-264 Washington, NC 27889 Pinetown, NC 27865

252-940-0012 252-943-3116

WASHINGTON CRAB & SEAFOOD LARGEST SELECTION OF SEAFOOD IN EASTERN NC. SHRIMP, OYSTERS, CRABMEAT, SCALLOPS, CRABS AND MORE 64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

WE COOK 1212 John Small Avenue, Washington, NC 27889

252-974-2722

YOU COOK 321 N Pierce Street, Washington, NC 27889

252-946-5796

For your many sides, there’s ® Nationwide. AUTO

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Life

BUsiness

Robert Alton Robert D. Alton Agency (252) 974-7737 altonr@nationwide.com Products underwritten by Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company and Affiliated Companies. Home Office: Columbus, OH 43215. Subject to underwriting guidelines, review, and approval. Availability varies. Nationwide, Nationwide Is On Your Side, and the Nationwide N and Eagle are service marks of Nationwide Mutual Insurance Company. ©2017 Nationwide CPO-0836AO (08/16) 6365852

WHY I LOVE WASHINGTON

A NATURAL FIT WRITTEN BY CHRIS DONAHUE | PHOTOGRAPH BY VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

y wife and I had driven close to 900 miles from south Florida to visit a good friend who had moved to Washington. It was June of 2008, and as we stepped out of our car, I smelled the warm scent of summer pine trees and heard a lone cicada in the distance. Liane asked if we had ever kayaked before; we had not. She gave us a quick lesson, and the next day we went with a group of local people on a three-mile paddle in Bath. We made new friends, enjoyed the river, soaked in the sun. But when we saw the bald eagle, high in a tree silently watching us glide by, we knew we would move here someday. I am not from here. I was born in San Diego, and I lived in upstate New York

farm country, from elementary through junior high school. I loved the seasons that southern California did not offer. I loved the rolling green hills of my youth, the endless stretches of corn fields and dairy farms. When my family moved to Fort Lauderdale, I was devastated to leave that idyllic life, yet I spent the next 40 years in the tropics. I made friends, had a wonderful career, met my wife, had great adventures, but something was missing. Our first vacation in Washington found us looking at houses. In 2012, we bought the house we had first admired in 2008. Mom moved with us, and we share that house and this town — its climate, people, culture, industry are familiar, yet unfamiliar. We have started our lives over

66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER 2018

in a place we instantly loved. I am still thrilled every time I see an eagle. I’ve kayaked with dolphin in the Pamlico River and helped turtles cross the road. I am that driver who slows down every morning by Veterans Park to look at the early summer goslings. I look forward to different flowers every season, from azaleas to hydrangeas, from crepe myrtle to pansies. I have seen the most beautiful sunsets imaginable right here in our town. Yes, I call it our town. Sometimes I even slip into a soft Southern accent just because it is comfortable and soothing, like a warm bowl of chicken and pastry. Maybe it lets me feel as though I belong here — that I am from here — a place I am so proud to call home. ⋇

ADVERTISER INDEX A 1 Awards

Acre Station Meat Farm

Ameriprise Financial

Albemarle Craftsman Fair

Arts of the Pamlico

AssureVest Insurance Group-Ryan Whitford 27 BB&T Scott & Stringfellow

Beaufort County Community College

Beaufort County United Way

Big Bargain Furniture

4, 23

"Blackbeard 300" Tricentennial

Bloom Women's Apparel

Carolina Wind Yacht Brokerage

Carryout by Chrislyn

Century 21/Brown/Selby/Sykes

Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty

Cottage Junkies/Graceful Goose

Crescom Bank

Daughtridge Patio & Hearth

Dellinger's Pawn

Dowry Creek Marina

Eastern NC Realty

Easter Pines Dental

El Charrito

Executive Personnel Group

Farm Bureau Insurance

Feyer Ford

First Bank

Gail Kenefick/Coldwell Banker

Gerri McKinley/Coldwell Banker

G.W. Walker & Sons

Hunter's Pointe Sporting Clays

John Groesser Impressionist Painter

Mauri Evans State Farm Insurance

Nationwide Alton Agency

On The Waterfront

Parrott Academy

Petals & Produce

Rachel K's

Red Heron Cafe

Rich Company

Robinson Jewelers

Secret Garden Gallery

Albemarle

Craftsman’s Fair Oct. 26, 27 & 28, 2018 Friday & Saturday 10 a.m. - 7 p.m. • Sunday 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Knobbs Creek Recreation Center 200 E. Ward St., Elizabeth City, NC

Café on-site provided by Circle II Restaurant Weekend Pass General Admission $5 Seniors & Students $4 Groups (10 or more) $4

Servpro 58 Sloan Insurance

Southern Grace Boutique

Stewart's Jewelry Store

Tayloe's Hospital Pharmacy

The Southern Nest Antiques

The Wine Crate

United Country Respess Real Estate

Vidant Beaufort Hospital

Vidant Medical Group

Washington Crab & Seafood

Washington Rotary

Featuring members of the Albemarle Craftsman's Guild, visit with over 60 Craftsmen selling their quality, artisanal wares while demonstrating their craft.

Washington Women's Business Cooperative 61 Washington Yacht & Country Club

WHDA 2 Wine & Words ... & Gourmet

www.albemarlecraftsmansfair.com 252-338-3954 or 252-562-5441

Expanded, renovated and ready to serve As Beaufort County grows, so does its need for advanced, comprehensive emergency care. Vidant Beaufort Hospital is proud to open phase one of its expanded emergency department this September. The facility includes many new features designed to create a more comfortable, efficient and healing environment for patients and their families. It allows us to deliver exceptional care and service to our community for many years into the future. It’s all part of our pursuit to be the leader in rural health—providing the advanced care you’ve trusted for generations. When the unexpected happens, you’ll have confidence knowing this leading-edge facility and dedicated team are right here, close to home.