Washington the Magazine

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Treasure seekers Black Beard's origin, his life and his demise SEPTEMBER 2014 Washington, North Carolina

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luxurious seafood recipes

Discover the Beauty

of Eastern North Carolina

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IN THIS ISSUE

FEATURES & DEPARTMENTS

20

26

36

60

14

18 52

SHOPPING

RIVER LIFE

LET'S Eat

14

26

52

Treasures for all: Treat yourself and others with more bounty and loot

AT Home 20

Hidden Treasure: Van Norden Street home offers an unexpected perspective on city living

32

36

GOOD SPORTS 40

Straight to the pointe: Washington home to eastern N.C.’s top sporting clays club

FOR YOUR HEALTH 44

Walk this Way: Walking through Washington’s history

4 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

The Boys from Bath: Historians search for the true story of Blackbeard Painted Pirates: Black Beard historian talks about the portrait of the pirate and friends

IN EVERY ISSUE 6 9 46 48 50 51 56 66

Local Luxuries: Seafood a not so hidden local treasure

PAST & PRESENT 60

Castle Island: An important center for commerce

Preserving History: Behind the scenes of the Queen Anne’s Revenge preservation effort

This portrait of Black Beard the pirate was painted by Jeffrey Jakub, a local American Watercolor Society signature artist. See Painted Pirates, on page 32.

The Scene Advertiser Index Dining Guide Cast a Line Word on Wine Calendar Why I Love Washington

ON T G N I H WAS T

ON THE COVER

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NOTE FROM ASHLEY

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There be treasure

his is pirate country. And where go pirates, there be treasure.

Treasures of all kinds are abundant in eastern North Carolina.

Not all of them are the stuff of legend. But those of the mythical variety have a way of captivating, inspiring our imagination.

It’s not hard to look across Bath Creek on a sun-kissed morning and picture the notorious Blackbeard and a sloop full of pirates.

Who really was Blackbeard? What treasure did he bring back to eastern North Carolina? And does any of it remain?

We may never know the answers to these questions, but after nearly 300 years, local researchers, artists and historians offer fresh new perspectives on the world’s most popular pirate.

Author and historian Kevin Duffus postulates about the origins of Blackbeard and his crew. That infamous bunch may have had stronger ties to the area than previously thought. Join the search for the true story of Blackbeard on page 26.

Then, in his own words, Duffus provides background for art inspired by his book, “The Last Days of Black Beard the Pirate.” The new pieces by renowned Washington artist Jeffrey Jakub start on page 32.

While Duffus and Jakub keep Blackbeard alive on paper and canvas, a team of researchers works to preserve physical artifacts tied to the legendary pirate. Recovery and preservation of Blackbeard’s

flagship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, is a process years in the making. Read about the lab on page 36.

It’s an oft-overlooked treasure along the Washington waterfront that once sheltered a myriad of interests, from shipbuilders to soldiers, even a brothel. Castle Island’s peculiar history may change the way you look at the speck of land splitting the Pamlico River. Hop on over to the island’s story on page 60.

Abundant recreational opportunities are treasured by the many outdoor enthusiasts that visit our area or call it home. For the angler, few other experiences match the excitement of landing a giant red drum. Cast your line in the world-class fishery on page 50.

A hidden treasure off Highway 17 draws thousands of shooters to Washington each year.

One of the largest sporting clay facilities in eastern North Carolina, Hunters’ Pointe is a prize for tournament competitors and recreational shooters alike. Pointe and shoot on page 40.

Washington, Beaufort County and all of eastern North Carolina offer plenty to explore. I hope that you continue to find and appreciate its abundant treasure.

Happy hunting,

Ashley Vansant Publisher

would love to hear what you think about Washington the Magazine. Email us at news@ Write We thewashingtondailynews.com or write to P.O. Box 1788, Washington, NC 27889. Letters chosen for publication to us may be edited for length and clarity. All submissions become the property of Washington the Magazine.

6 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

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Publisher Ashley Vansant

Editorial David Cucchiara Jonathan Rowe Vail Stewart Rumley Contributors Kevin Scott Cutler Kevin Duffus Jane Olsen Will Preslar Advertising Director Kathryn Powell Marketing & Sales German Llodrat Cecilia Prokos Distribution Sylvester Rogers Art Direction Ryan Webb Contact information Washington the Magazine P.O. Box 1788 Washington, NC 27889 Advertising inquiries 252-946-2144 Ext. 221 Subscriptions & change of address 252-946-2144 Washington the Magazine is published six times a year by Washington Newsmedia, LLC. Copyright 2014, Washington Newsmedia, LLC

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THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Queen Anne’s Revenge exhibit opening When Historic Bath State Historic Site heralded the arrival of the Queen Anne’s Revenge traveling exhibit in June, local residents and visitors alike hurried to catch a glimpse of artifacts from Blackbeard’s pirate ship. The exhibit opened first with a “sneak peak” preview, which was followed by a public ribbon cutting ceremony.

Gaylon Ambrose, Carolyn Ambrose and Jimmy Latham

Peggy Daw, Kevin Duffus and Chris Suttle

Bill Hall and Ron Wahab

Rick Mood and Ken Lumsden

Jeffrey Jakub and Josie Hookway

Leigh Swain, Dr. Kevin Cherry, Jamie Mesrobian and Elizabeth Midyette

Kevin Duffus, Pat Mansfield and Capt. Ben Bunn

JImmy Taylor and Marti Buchanan

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 9

OUT AND ABOUT

Symphony on the waterfront

THE SCENE

June 15, the North Carolina Symphony Orchestra was back to play a concert on the waterfront in Washington — for the third year running. The event was sponsored by PotashCorp-Aurora in honor of the company’s 50th anniversary and by the Washington-Beaufort County Chamber of Commerce. The evening in Festival Park made for a very special Father’s Day.

Constance Boyce and Glenwood Mitchell

Joseph and Dayna Weber

Joanne Broderick, Joy Young and Kathy Russman

10 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Lisa and Bobby Clark, Michael and Barbara Buzzeo

Scott and Beckie Sipprell

John and Cheri Vaughn

Catherine Glover, Robin McKeithan and Tonya Wright

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Eastern Carolina Star Search The Turnage Theater played host to the first ever Eastern Carolina Star Search talent competition in June.

Fourteen acts including singers, dancers, instrumentalists and even a comedienne competed for the coveted title. The event was a fundraiser for Eagle's Wings food pantry and was presented by Eagle's Wings and Le Moulin Rouge de Danse. Cash prizes for the top three acts were generously provided by F. Ray Moore Propane and Lee Chevrolet.

Janet Cox, Russell Smith and Debbie Adams

Alaina Donadio, Dawn Landen, Stella Frisbie, Gayle Watson, Jamie Ebron and Shelley Gentner

K-OS: Kendall Smith, Connor Smith, Caleb Perry, Greyson Schmitt and Zack Pagnani

Sarah Gruninger, Amy Stephenson and Pamela Cox

Ben Kifer and James Nichols

Randy Wood, George Mitchell and Joey Brinn

Camillia Evans, Cindy Sutorius and Gene Eakes

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 11

OUT AND ABOUT

Washington Area Historic Foundation social

THE SCENE

The Washington Area Historic Foundation held its annual social at the home of Scott Campbell and Bill Sykes on June 21. The foundation is a historic preservation advocacy organization that often takes on preservation and beautification projects.

Tom Garcia and Nancy St. Claire

Catherine and Michael Tahaney

Jim and Mary Rudbeck

Mary Pat Musselman and Gennell Monaghan

Sherry Mosely and Diana Aideuis

Verna Motteler and Betty Jane Green

12 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Scott Campbell and Bill Sykes

THE SCENE

OUT AND ABOUT

Pros Weekend Current and former NFL players, friends and sponsors of the 2014 Pros Weekend attended a June 20 reception down the river on the Belle of Washington. Hosted by Washington native and a former NFL wide receiver, Terrance Copper and Washington Police and Fire Services, the Pros weekend combined a community cookout/autograph signing with free football and basketball camps for local children.

Scott and Karen Shook

Lou Hodges, Michelle and Sonny Swanner

Chargers’ Willie Smith and Jets’ Steven Baker

Dallas Cowboys’ Jamar Newsome and Chicago Bears’ Shaun Draughn

Past ECU Pirates Marvin Townes and Donald Whitehead

Pam and John Lampkins

Washington City Councilman William Pitt and Bonita Wright

Washington Mayor Mac Hodges and Washington Police and Fire Services Director Stacy Drakeford

Retired NFL wide receiver Terrance Copper and former Jaguars’ quarterback David Garrard

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 13

WHAT’S IN STORE

Pirate Booty

Treasures for all Written by TONY BLACK PHOTOS by WILL PRESLAR

Treasure box For easy transport for a bottle of wine and two glasses, this handmade cedar wine box is ideal.

The box closes with the bottle and two glasses lying flat against the bottom. Handcrafted by Will Works, the cedar wine box can be found at Raised in a Barn Farm in Chocowinity. $35

14 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Three hundred years later, it’s no secret why Bath brings visitors to eastern North Carolina. Not only does it boast some fine colonial architecture, and the oldest church in North Carolina, but it might very well have been the home of one of the notorious pirates to have ever lived — Black Beard. You can support the Historic Bath State Historic Site by picking up one of these new T-shirts in many fun colors. $ 10

No secret here Whether you’re a Duke, East Carolina, UNC or NC State fan, a decorative scarf might be a perfect fit for the team pride.

These hand-painted silk scarves are crafted

by Susan Owens—each one unique and can’t be found anywhere but here. The scarfs can be found on her website at www.susanowensstudio.com or at the Lane Gift Shop in the Turnage Theater, downtown Washington. $39 each

Scent-sitivity It’s not mystery where the sweet smells of the South come from: jasmine, gardenia, magnolia and more.

Cherie’s Scents has captured those smells, and more exotic ones, with her homemade soaps. Cherie sells her goods at downtown Washington’s Saturday Market — $15 will get you four bars of sweet Southern goodness and a handmade scrub. $15

Local Lore Stained glass is an art, and artist Robin McCook has cornered the market on whimsical stained glass that captures the spirit of the Inner Banks. Capture the light, and mystery, of eastern North Carolina with her handcrafted work. Available at downtown Washington’s Saturday Market. Stained glass crab, $20

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 15

WHAT’S IN STORE

Tobacco star These old tobacco sticks were recycled to make a star hanger for light jackets. Handmade by local woodworker Sam Taylor, the star has nine metal hooks for holding hangers.

It can be found at Raised in a Barn Farm in Chocowinity. $15

Southside secrets Hidden in the farmland on the south side of the Pamlico River, one can find homegrown fruit and vegetables that come straight from the farm to you. Pick your own throughout the growing season, from strawberries to zucchini. Expanding on the fresh, Southside Farms also provides homemade salad dressings and vinaigrettes that are guaranteed to turn your meal into a gourmet experience, local style. Southside Farms goods can be found 320 Harding Lane, Chocowinity, and at downtown Washington’s Saturday Market. Priced at $4.95 each

16 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Beaufort County, Confidential Some of the best jams, jellies and salsas to be had are made right here in Beaufort County. Petals and Produce — located in Washington and Pinetown — makes these gourmet goods, and while the recipes may be a secret, it’s no secret that any occasion can be made better with these homemade products. Featured are Black Bean Salsa, Bread and Butter pickles and Raspberry-Jalapeno Jam. Petals and Produce gourmet goods can be found at 1101 John Small Avenue in Washington and at Saturday Market. Various prices

Decorative dishes The handmade cup, platter and bowl are one of kind pieces, crafted

by Washington resident Carolyn Sleeper. Sleeper’s signature quirky, yet elegant, style can be seen in one piece’s whimsical frog motif; on another, in a hand-painted starfish. Sleeper’s work can be found at River Walk Gallery in downtown Washington. Cup $38, bowl $24 and platter $95

In the picture Matching picture frames would make great rustic addition to any living room. The handmade wooden frames are roughly an inch thick surrounding a four-inch square opening. The picture frames can be found at Raised in a Barn Farm in Chocowinity. $30

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 17

Photo by Larry Boyd

Wa s h i n g t o n H a r b o r D i s t r i c t

SEPTEMBER2014 2014||WASHINGTON WASHINGTONTHE THEMAGAZINE MAGAZINE••19 19 SEPTEMBER

AT HOME

Hidden treasure 20 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

The chandeliers of Spring Hill made the move to Washington from Chocowinity with Purser and Duncan and blended seamlessly with the existing design.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 21

“When old houses are in you — they’re in you.” Everett Duncan

There was an initial plan to remodel the kitchen of their new home, but Duncan and Everett say the country design has grown on them since they’ve settled in—they’ll keep it, as is.

22 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

The outside of Purser and Duncan’s home gives no clue as to its unique interior, but it does give a hint of the southern view.

Van Norden Street home offers an unexpected perspective on city living

A

Story and PHOTOGRAPHYS by VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

gentle breeze carries the scent of the river and the sound of birdsong on a quiet afternoon.

From the porch, one can look down the long lawn, framed with flowerbeds, past the brick terrace and birdbath, past the low hedge of boxwoods, to the white sails of a boat slipping silently down the river.

Ceiling fans wave lazily overhead; the porch swing creaks softly in the sway of the breeze.

It’s a bucolic country scene; a setting immersed in nature, inviting one to take in the view of the river

and an opposite shore unspoiled by development.

It’s also an illusion. This is no plantation home set out in the countryside somewhere. This home is smack in the middle of Washington and it’s only a quirk of geography that makes it seem otherwise.

Recently christened “Spring Hill” by its new owners Greg Purser and Everett Duncan, the circa 1920 house sits on Van Norden Street in downtown Washington, at the top of a gentle slope towards West Main Street and the river. The low hedge blocks the sight of traffic going by; above it,

the view is narrowed down to a slice of the river, trees on the opposite bank and unlimited sky. The slant of historic Havens Wharf’s roofline and the eastern wall of a neighboring home are present, but, for most part, the surrounding town is nowhere to be found.

It’s a view enjoyed from every room in the house.

“That was the selling point for us — every room has a view,” Duncan said. “We pretty much fell in love with the river view from the moment we walked in.”

It wasn’t just the view that had SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 23

This rice bed, a style originating on plantations in the 1700s, is just one of the many antiques collected over the years by Purser and Duncan.

them withdrawing an offer the two had made for a house in the newer Smallwood neighborhood: a wraparound porch; the fact that even with the view, flooding is no issue since the house sits high above river level; that downtown Washington’s restaurants and shops are a stone’s throw away; a unique, and comfortable, layout oriented toward the river — all were factors weighing in on their decision to buy. What pushed them over the edge, however, was that the design and color schemes from room to room couldn’t have been more suited to their own style, and their belongings.

“The first thing I noticed was the colors — our furniture fit in here,” Purser said. “It’s odd because, for years, I’ve gone into other people’s houses to help them figure out what to change and we move in here and basically change nothing.”

It’s obvious the new owners and the previous owners, Jimmy and Katerie Leach, are not afraid of a little color. From the bright yellow

24 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

walls of the formal parlor to the muted charcoal in the den; from the red on white Asian-motif wallpaper in the dining room to the patterned country design of the kitchen, color abounds — and color is a perfect fit for the antique collection Purser and Duncan have amassed over the past 16 years.

Many would recognize the two men as the owners of Purser’s Chest, a West Main Street antiques store they had for 15 years. The store may have closed, but Purser and Duncan still have their hands in design and antiques: their inventory can be found at The Southern Nest on West Main Street, and Purser is still called upon to help the less design-savvy spruce up their homes.

“We’re able to enjoy the benefits of selling and all that without having to run the business,” Duncan said.

Neither studied interior design — Duncan is retired from his work as assistant administrator with Alpha Center, an alternative school in Pitt County, while Purser

is the general manager of Hillside Funeral Home in Washington — but their home illustrates the thin line between traditional training and simply having an eye for design.

“It’s just a natural talent — or so they tell me,” Purser laughed.

Duncan and Purser plan to expand on that natural talent in the coming years. Their lawn, where the Victorian Fowle House once stood, is currently undergoing a landscaping transformation and a new business plan is in the works: to eventually lease the Spring Hill lawn for weddings and other special occasions, and provide catering services.

Though they gave up their beloved home in Chocowinity — Winfield House — to make the move to Washington, Purser and Duncan say they haven’t experienced a bit of buyer’s or seller’s remorse. What they have done is settle in and make a classic home comfortable and spent every day taking in the best, and most unexpected, view in town.

Bright yellow walls form a colorful backdrop to the parlor. Features of the room include Duncan’s baby grand piano and an antique china curio cabinet holding Purser’s collection of occupied Japan porcelain figurines.

The best view in town: the illusion of country living can be found on the riverside porch of Purser and Duncan’s Van Norden Street home.

SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 2014 2014 || WASHINGTON WASHINGTON THE THE MAGAZINE MAGAZINE •• 25 25

RIVER LIFE

The Boys from Bath Bath Creek at sunset. The landscape on the eastern shore of Bath Creek would have looked much the same during Black Beard’s time.

26 26 •• WASHINGTON WASHINGTON THE THE MAGAZINE MAGAZINE || SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 2014 2014

Commonplace items were recovered from the Queen Anne’s Revenge, scuttled by Black Beard before his death in 1718. Here, a belt buckle is displayed at the Queen Anne Revenge’s recent exhibit held at the Historic Bath State Historic Site.

Historians search for the true story of Blackbeard

H

Story and PHOTOGRAPHYS by VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

e’s one of eastern North Carolina’s greatest mysteries: Black Beard, the pirate. His long missing treasure, another. His story is the stuff of legend — legend that has consolidated into seemingly indisputable history. The past 300 years have been ample time to blend sparse facts about the man with an

abundance of fiction. Fiction may very well have carried the day.

But the truth? The truth about the scourge of the Southern Seas and his bloodthirsty crew may just be stranger than fiction: Black Beard and his pirates were boys from Bath.

In many ways it’s a leap of faith, to believe that Black Beard and his fellow pirates were not

a ragtag crew amassed through his wide travels, but the sons of Bath landowners and their slaves.

But it’s a leap noted Black Beard historian Kevin Duffus is willing to take.

Upending nearly three centuries of history is not an easy task. From the first book about the history of pirates written in 1700s, the notorious Black Beard is identified

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 27

Bath Creek at sunset. From a distance, the landscape of Bath likely looks much the same as it did during Black Beard’s time.

as Edward Thatch, ”a Bristol man born.” What’s interesting about the claim is no corroborating evidence has been found that it was the case — it was one man’s statement upon which following publications were based, according to Duffus. In fact, there seems to be no record of Edward Thatch or Teach at all, anywhere, before he shows up in the Bahamas, in a report dated July 5, 1717, by Capt. Matthew Musson to the British Board of Trade.

Musson’s account identifies Teach as a pirate in the company of one Benjamin Hornigold.

“Really, the biggest mystery is Black Beard’s identity,” Duffus says. “I think it’s one of the greatest unsolved mysteries of early American history.”

28 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Duffus has spent years building a case, tying families together through connections in Barbados, in Charleston and in Bath County in the early 18th century. The surnames are there: the list of men who sailed with Black Beard are names that are recognized to this day in Beaufort County: Martin, Curtice, Brooks, Moore, Jackson.

But by far the most interesting name is the one not listed on Black Beard’s manifest. Instead, it is Capt. James Beard, a Bath landowner, with an estate on the western banks of Bath Creek — an estate that abutted those of Governor Charles Eden and Chief Justice, and port collector of the colony, Tobias Knight. Beard’s will,

dictated on his deathbed during a trip to the Charleston area, leaves his worldly goods to his wife and son back in Bath. The son is not named. No record of him has been found, according to Duffus.

But that doesn’t mean he didn’t exist.

In fact, for that time, many records one would expect to find for Bath County are missing, largely due to the upheaval of the Tuscaurora Indian war. It was a time of fear and drought — those years leading up to the emergence of piracy. And perhaps that was how the sons of Bath landowners began their careers in piracy: a desperate measure to fatten the coffers of a recovering colony, and with the blessing of Gov. Eden.

A cannon from Black Beard’s ship Queen Anne’s Revenge was a major find for Black Beard historians.

SEPTEMBER SEPTEMBER 2014 2014 || WASHINGTON WASHINGTON THE THE MAGAZINE MAGAZINE •• 29 29

Visitors tour through the Queen Anne's Revenge exhibit at the Historic Bath State Historic Site in June. Queen Anne's Revenge was one of Black Beard's ships.

The golden age of piracy began, literally, by accident. A fleet of 11 Spanish ships went down in a storm off the Florida coast in 1715. Laden with gold, with silver, with jewels — news of the wreck spread like wildfire through the colonies, each colony petitioning the crown, asking permission to send crews to scavenge for the unclaimed treasure.

According to Duffus, there’s no reason why Gov. Eden would not have petitioned to do the same.

And who would go on the errand?

The sons and slaves of local landowners.

30 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

“Black Beard’s inner circle of cohorts, pirates or associates can be connected to Beaufort County families. The rules of human behavior suggest that Black Beard would not have surrounded himself with strangers. He would have surrounded himself with friends and people he knew,” Duffus said.

And Black Beard’s treasure?

Many believe there was no illgotten plunder buried in Bath, or anywhere else, and the legend that has through the years brought waves of treasure seekers to poke around the banks of Bath Creek and the Pamlico River was

partly true, partly not. There was a treasure, but there was no gold. There were no jewels. What Blackbeard had was far more valuable: a ship full of slaves in a colony where there was no slave market.

In 2018, the 300th anniversary of Black Beard’s death and the capture of his crew will be observed. Three hundred years after the fact, it’s time to recognize what, deep down, we already knew.

It’s time to embrace the boys from Bath and reclaim them and the most famous pirate in history, Black Beard, as our own.

Cannon balls were another recovery made from Black Beard’s ship during its underwater excavation. These were part of the display from the Queen Anne’s Revenge exhibit in Bath earlier this year.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 31

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32 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

This portrait of Black Beard the pirate was painted by Jeffrey Jakub, a local American Watercolor Society signature artist.

Painted pirates Black Beard historian talks about the portrait of the pirate and friends Written by Kevin P. Duffus | Artwork by Jeffrey Jakub

J

uly 1, 1718. Bath Town Creek in the Colony of North Carolina. For nearly 300 years, Bath Creek has harbored a remarkable secret, a secret that survived only as an oral tradition — closely-kept among families, quietly whispered in polite company and among trusted friends, for the most part forgotten — that this place was the launching point of intrepid treasure salvors, smugglers, and world famous pirates.

On a bluff overlooking the creek are 20 of the officers and principal crew members of Black Beard's pirate company. Most have returned to Bath after two years at sea; for a few others, this was their first visit.

The rakish Jamaica-rigged sloop Adventure, which they commandeered six weeks earlier near Cuba, lays alongside a wharf, the vessel's sails lowered but not neatly tied, as the crew were in a hurry to get ashore. In the background, the Adventure’s longboat prepares to head toward town as a dozen or so black slaves row the boat while a couple of white crew members stand at the bow and stern. Meanwhile,

Edward "Black" Beard rests his arm on the shoulder of his protégé, friend, and one-time neighbor on Bath Creek, the infamous pirate-slave Caesar.

No one, including the notorious Black Beard are wearing weapons — they are among friends and family. Some are clearly happy to be back at Bath.

All of the Pamlico River Pirates are fairly young — the median age of pirates at this time was about 27-years-old.

Greeting these mariners are Gov. Charles Eden wearing his official wig, and Customs Collector and Council Secretary Tobias Knight. Eden is holding a rolled-up parchment that represents the King’s Act of Grace for surrendering pirates. As it happened, Eden’s pardon of the Pamlico River Pirates was invalid, illegal, and endangered Eden to being indicted as an accessory to acts of piracy.

Many of the pirates were killed at Ocracoke nearly five months later. Edward Salter, seated atop one of his barrels, was among those who survived. He was a cooper who was forced to join the pirates shortly SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 33

©Looking Glass Productions, Inc., \ All Rights Reserved.

34 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

“The Return of the Pamlico River Pirates”

by Washington artist, and American Watercolor Society signature artist, Jeffrey Jakub. Jakub’s painting was inspired by the book, “The Last Days of Black Beard the Pirate” by Kevin P. Duffus.

after they captured the French slaver they renamed Queen Anne's Revenge. Salter’s well documented post-pirate history, including his service as a two-term representative of Bath Precinct to the General Assembly, his role in commencing the construction of historic St. Thomas Church, the roles his grandsons bravely performed during the American Revolution, makes this humble barrel-maker one of the most important and extraordinary figures in all of American pirate history.

Until now this historical truth has been eclipsed by the colossal legend of popular culture's fictional version of Black Beard, leading generations to believe that these men were ruthless, bloodthirsty criminals.

Many of these men were the sons, or in some instances, slaves, of Pamlico-area plantation owners. These Pamlico River mariners and their slaves, led by the tall, charismatic Edward “Black” Beard, strayed across the boundaries of lawfulness no more than anyone else in colonial America at the time, including Governors, customs officials and ministers. Everyone simply did what they had to do to survive.

Indeed, the seeds of our nation’s genesis were planted, literally, in the children and grandchildren of the families of the Pamlico River pirates and the black men they brought to North Carolina. Incredibly, many of those who survived the chaos and unprincipled years of the Golden Age of Piracy became the founding grandfathers of this, our great nation. And it is in this remarkable painting by Jeffrey Jakub, where the truth of that history is portrayed.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 35

OUR PAST

Preserving history 36 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

The QAR lab, located on ECU’s West Research Campus, is responsible for conserving artifacts pulled from the Queen Anne's Revenge.

Behind the scenes of the QAR preservation effort

I

Story AND PHOTOS by DAVID CUCCHIARA

t’s been 18 years since privately contracted divers from Intersal Inc. stumbled across history’s most elusive pirate flagship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, beneath 24 feet of water in the Beaufort Inlet.

The historic find answered questions that have been left unanswered for hundreds of years and it’s up to the North Carolina Department of Cultural Resources’ underwater archaeology branch to leave no stone unturned, piecing together the puzzle to expose the underwater mystery of the world’s most famous swashbuckler, Blackbeard.

In 2004, East Carolina University opened its doors to the QAR, offering the state-run project a home in the old Voice of America building located on the West Research Campus. Since then, QAR Lab Director Sarah

Watkins-Kenney, researchers and graduate students have worked tirelessly to conserve artifacts excavated from the site, nearly 60 percent complete.

From ocean to museum, each piece of history goes through an extensive and meticulous 12-step process before being displayed.

Following the recovery of artifacts encased in concretions, or cement-like organic matter that has petrified around the object, the oceanic chunks move to the facility for post-recovery processing, where researchers measure, document and catalogue.

The fragile state of the almost three-centuryold artifacts, especially ferrous and wooden objects, requires wet storage. A half-dozen industrial shipping containers line the outside the building, SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 37

Artifacts from the wreckage of the Queen Anne’s Revenge are scattered across a wide plain. Scientists map out wreck using a grid system so it can be reconstructed at any time in the process. Below: The wreckage of Blackbeard’s flagship, the Queen Anne’s Revenge, was discovered in 1996 by Intersal, Inc., a commercial surveying company. Objects began to be raised in 2001 following Hurricane Floyd.

each containing hundreds of concretions, all sitting in fresh water. Watkins-Kenney systematically monitors the solutions and changes the water when enough salt has exited the concretions.

Following more analysis, the object is cleaned, but not before being identified through X-radiography, illustrated and photographed. The X-ray allows researchers to pinpoint exactly what is in the concretion and where it is located, while the illustration exposes minor features that may not be visible in a photograph.

Next, each artifact goes through a desalination process.

For metal, the water is exposed

38 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

to an electric current, meant to speed up the procedure. Things like cannons have negative charges, while the current has a positive charge.

The artifacts are then cleaned again, dried and coated with tannic acid or wax to better preserve things like iron and the small amount of wood recovered (mostly from the sternpost).

After more analysis, objects in need of repair (like ceramic vessels) are reconstructed and documented for a final time.

What may seem like a systematic and well-paced project can take years to complete, but the end product is the beautiful plates, ceramic pots, sword hilts and cannons on display in a traveling exhibit.

While the lab is celebrating its 10th year of operation, it’s still decades away from solving the 300ton, three-century-old puzzle.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 39

GOOD SPORTS

Straight to the pointe 40 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Hunters’ Pointe opened in 1991 and was inspired by the owner’s son, Scott Downs, who won the National Sporting Clays Association National Championship in 1993.

Washington home to eastern N.C.’s top sporting clays club

“

Written by DAVID CUCCHIARA | ImageS CONTRIBUTED

Pull.”

A neon orange sporting clay launches from Trap B, swirling gracefully across the range, breaking apart on the pristinely manicured grass. Gripping the walnut stock, Rita Downs ejects the shotgun shells from her vintage 12-gauge Beretta EELL and loads another round.

“Pull.”

Again, the orange disk glides

through the air, this time shattering a half second after being dispensed.

At first glance, Downs, 69, is not your stereotypical National Sporting Clays Association member, but there’s no denying the resiliency of the two-time cancer survivor and sole proprietor of Washington’s renowned sporting clays club.

In the heart of 267-acre plot of land, Hunters’ Pointe, located on Decoy Drive off U.S. Highway 17, opened its

doors in 1991 to provide a top-of-theline sporting clays facility to the people of eastern North Carolina, including Rita’s son, Scott, who was a NSCA National Champion in 1993 and the inspiration behind the purchase.

A product of prestige, the 14-range, state-of-the-art sporting clays club was built to fine tune the craft of the greatest shooter this area has ever seen.

Today, it’s home to a collection of NSCA sanction tournaments, drawing SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 41

Each range is equipped with multiple traps to give shooters different looks on the same range.

thousands of shooters and their families to Washington each year.

“Between the corporate shoots, the people that walk in and your tournaments, that’s what makes a range go. You have to have all three,” Rita said. “Between the corporate shoots, the people that walk in and your tournaments, that’s what makes a range go. You have to have all three.”

The facility fuses the most up-todate, state-of-the-art skeet shooting technology with the mystique of an isolated, somewhat quaint location, shielded from the sun and rain by a dense forest. Connected by weaving, uniform gravel paths, each range is equipped with multiple solar-powered, 42 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

olive green Promatic bird traps, which blend into their surroundings and give shooters multiple angles from the same stand.

Being one of the largest sporting clay facilities in eastern North Carolina, Hunters’ Pointe is capable of large-scale tournaments, including their own, the East Coast Championship, which was held in March.

Rita and husband David Downs decided they wanted to create their own signature tournament to better their business and reputation, so in 1996, the Downs family held the first East Coast Championship at Hunters’ Pointe. The tournament drew dozens

of shooters, becoming larger through the years.

David Downs fell ill and passed away a year after the first tournament.

In 1999, Rita then had to cope with the tragic death of her son.

A testament to her unquestionable toughness, Rita continued to hold the East Coast Championship and keep the facility operational.

Hunters’ Pointe was leased and run by a Connecticut couple from 2000 to February 2012. When the contract expired and the leasers left, Rita, who battled and defeated Stage 3 cancer in the late 2000s, twice, decided she wasn’t ready to let go.

“I didn’t have the heart to let this

Hunters’ Pointe owner Rita Downs tries her luck on the four-stand range with a vintage Beretta EELL.

place shut down when Chuck tried to shut it down. This is the life I had lived for years,” Rita said.

After closing for just three months, Hunters’ Pointe reopened in May of 2013 with the updated traps and stands present today, and after missing just one year, the club has made a comeback, hosting a half dozen tournaments in the last year, including the East Coast Championship and the North Carolina Circuit Shoot.

And the NSCA has noticed.

Hunters’ Pointe was granted the North Carolina State Championship shoot next spring. At this year’s state shoot in Norwood, which brought

over 200 people to the The Fork, L.L.C., Rita stood up and made the announcement.

“I told them, this is going to be a hard act to follow, but you shooters sitting here under this tent know it’s going to be at my place next year and I hope that you will come. We can and will continue to have this shoot with 200-plus people. “ Whether it’s corporate gatherings, bachelor parties, sanctioned tournaments or a kid’s first time holding a shotgun, the tucked away shooting ranges of Hunters’ Pointe are bringing business to the waterfront and the area’s best shooters to Washington.

Rita Downs purchased news Promatic automatic traps in 2013. Each trap can hold hundreds of birds, is activated with a remote keycard system and is solar powered.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 43

FOR YOUR HEALTH

Walking through Washington’s history

There’s no doubt that getting out and about is good for a body. But in Washington, a walk through history is not only good for the body, but good for the mind, as well. Scenic routes abound, and the combination of historical and self-guided tours provides a person the opportunity to get a little bit of exercise and a few lessons from the past.

In Washington, eerie ghost walks, an educational African-American history walking tour, a self-guided tour of area historic homes, a stroll through the city’s cemetery — all await those with a historical bent. But that’s not all the area has to offer for those in search of a lovely stroll: downtown Washington’s boardwalk and a variety of hikes at Goose Creek State Park give people the chance to explore nature, at their own pace.

The benefit is that any of these walks can be done without the thought of getting workout.

It’s exercise, yes. But it’s also educational.

Healthy living: Take a walk burn calories Walking comes highly recommended from health professionals. Jennifer Weatherly, group exercise coordinator at Vidant-Beaufort Hospital, said people should accumulate 150 minutes of activity each week.

“That simply breaks down to a 30 minute walk five-times a week to meet that goal,” Weatherly said.

Because of Washington’s historic beauty, finding a place to walk with scenery shouldn’t be a problem. Weatherly strongly recommends any walker should stroll somewhere with visual appeal. A leisurely stroll around Oakdale Cemetery, Goose Creek State Park and the downtown waterfront are some of the recommended places.

One of the many places people walk in Washington is the downtown waterfront.

Without stops, the walk takes roughly 30 minutes to complete end to end.

For those unused to walking for exercise, Weatherly said taking breaks on a given walk 44 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Oakdale Cemetery

and bringing along bottled water to combat dehydration are both good ideas.

Natures Beauty: Enjoying a quiet stroll Long before it became a state park in 1974, Goose Creek was home to a pair of Native American tribes that called eastern North Carolina home. The Pamlico and Secotan tribes settled in the area between Goose Creek and Bath.

After the Native Americans left the area during European settlement, the area was used for farming and logging. History still shows itself in remnants: old boat piers, a railroad bed and more.

The 40-year-old state park offers eight miles of meandering trails to take in the surroundings, giving people a wonderful opportunity to explore and see what nature has to offer in any particular season.

One of the longest trails in the park, Goose Creek Trail, is located at the southern end of the

park and is a close hike to the Pamlico River.

Ivey Gut Trail intersects with the picturesque Palmetto Boardwalk.

If long walks aren’t a walker’s cup of tea, there are shorter trails to enjoy as well: Flatty Creek Trail, Tar-Kiln Trail, Mallard Creek Trail, Huckleberry Trail and Live Oak Trail.

Walking in peace: Oakdale Cemetery provides walking comfort A hidden walking gem in Washington is Oakdale Cemetery, located at North Market Street and 15th streets in Washington.

“It’s peaceful and there is virtually no traffic,” said Eddie Gurganus, superintendent of general services for Washington. “It’s easy to park and to get to.”

A stroll through Oakdale is like a view into the past. Many of its gravestones bear names found in Washington history — past residents who shaped the city’s landscape, Gurganus

said.

Oakdale is a compilation of family plots the city has purchased through the years.

“The cemetery was bought in several different pieces, it wasn’t all just one big cemetery, Gurganus said. “The city took over sections owned by other people.”

The cemetery, which is open from sun up to sundown, provides hills and shade that both give walkers a bit more challenge and keep them cool on summer days.

The cemetery prohibits bicyclists and pets.

Slavery: The dark history of America Leesa Jones has made it her mission to teach others about the rich history of African Americans in Washington.

In 2011, Jones and her husband, Milton, started hosting free tours to share Jones’ findings with anyone who wants to hear the stories of their ancestors. Jones holds her tours from April until October.

Jones guides tour groups along the downtown waterfront to where many AfricanAmericans built ships during the War of 1812 and Civil War; to the corner of Market and Water streets where an AfricanAmerican, Jarvis Williams, owned a bakery and baked for the Union army.

During her tours, Jones relays her exhaustive research about the importance of Washington to escaping slaves and AfricanAmericans fighting in the Civil War. “One of my favorite places is Market and Main streets because in 1900 there was an Opera House and Booker T. Washington spoke there,” Jones said. “Even though the buildings and historical sites don’t exist, we still have some great stories here.”

For more information about Jones’ walking tours, visit her Facebook page: “I’m from Washington and Nobody Told Me This.”

A haunting past: Walking a ghostly past Brown Library Program Assistant Terry Rollins hosts monthly Ghost Walks between April and November every year.

The 90-minute blend of the supernatural and Washington history takes visitors on a tour of historical sites, accompanied by Rollins’ narration of facts and fiction and

Historical Walking Tour

things that may go bump in the night.

The tour comprises a one-mile trek through the Washington Historic District, starting a Harding Square at the waterfront end of Market Street and moving on to a dozen stops and sites to see.

“It’s a historic ghost walk, but we incorporate into that a lot of the history into Washington,” Rollins said.

During walks in the past, Rollins said some ghost walkers have taken photographs that later reveal small orbs of light — a telltale sign of a ghostly presence—at locations known to experience supernatural events.

“I think Washington is one of the most haunted places in North Carolina and there are so many reports of paranormal activity,” Rollins said. “If people are open to the idea of supernatural occurrence or ghost, they’ll come away with a real appreciation of Washington’s connection to that. They also come away with a history and understanding of Washington.”

Rollins’ Ghost Walks cost $10 per person. For more information, contact Rollins at….

Homes tour: A self-guided walk through history Washington’s Historical Walking Tour is a free self-guided homes tour, providing both tourists and residents a chance to learn about the historic homes of Washington. Around the historic district, plaques and signs mark the path so walkers can read about the homes’ history as they go.

Though many of history’s homes and

Goose Creek Trail buildings no longer stand, as Union troops burned the city and an early 20th-century fire destroyed downtown, three stops on the walking tour feature homes dating from the early days of the town.

The Myers House, built in 1780, is the oldest house in Washington. The Hyatt House was built eight years after Washington became a city. The Marsh House was built in 1795 and was taken over by Union troops during the Civil War. “We have found pottery shards and Civil War bullets in the yard, and some nails,” said Dee Congleton, owner of the Marsh House.

Walkers on the homes tour can also see a Civil War cannonball lodged into the front of the Marsh House.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 45

ADVERTISER INDEX Allstate Insurance, 8 Apollo’s Steakhouse, 48 Backwater Jacks Tiki Bar & Grill, 48 Beaufort County Community College, 67 Brenda Evans, Century-21, 18 Coastal Carolina Regional Airport, 46 Coastal insurance, 47 Coldwell Banker Coastal Rivers Realty, 19 Coldwell Banker Towne Point, 46 Cottage Junkies, 8 Dr. Lee Lewis, DDS, PLLC, 46 Eastern Dermatology & Pathology, 5 Edward Jones, 59 Electronic Solutions, 58 Executive Personnel, 18 Eye Care Center, 65 Farm Bureau, 18 Feyer Ford, 2 First Bank, 19 Gail Kenefick, 49 Gerri McKinley, 49 GoldenWay Home Care, 49 Gregory Poole, 65 Lone Leaf Gallery, 50 New Trends In Travel, 8 Patio & Hearth Shop, 58 Pair Electronics, 58 Ridgewood Rehabilitation, 47 Scott Campbell, Century-21, 56 Select Bank, 19 State Farm, 5 Stewart’s Jewelry Store, 7 Tayloe’s Hospital Pharmacy, 5 The Rich Company, 3 The Southern Nest, 19 Vidant Health, back cover Washington Yacht & Country Club, 48 Zaxby’s, 49

46 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

GOOD READ Fishing the Western Pamlico, by Peter Boettger, was written to give the reader who is entirely new to fishing, or an experienced fisherman who is new to the region, a basic primer for fishing the waters of the western Pamlico Sound/River.

Because of its unique physical environment it presents a special set of challenges, as well as opportunities for recreational fishermen. Most of all it is about adapting to constant change across short spans of time and space. All of the author's proceeds are donated to the Pamlico-Tar River Foundation. To purchase, visit ptrf.org.

DINING GUIDE

48 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 49

CAST A LINE

Marsh pumpkins

Written by CAPT. RICHARD ANDREWS

O

ne of the greatest treasures which lies within Beaufort County waters is the world class giant red drum fishing in our river. Only discovered and enjoyed by a few dedicated fishermen, we are so lucky to have one of the country's best inshore saltwater fisheries on our back porch. There is no other place where fisherman can catch multiple trophy-sized red drum (30-60 pounders) in a single outing. Yes, other popular inshore fishing destinations such as the Louisiana delta have a proliferation of red drum; however, no other state can compare in abundance of adult fish to North Carolina.

Adult Red Drum, which is our state fish, enter the Pamlico River and Sound in the late summer and early fall (mainly August and September) for their annual spawning ritual. These fish are typically 35-52 inches in length and are approximately one pound in weight per inch in length. Some fish have been aged into the seventies. When the fish are abundant, anglers routinely have double-digit catch and release trips.

On our best charter during the 2013 season, we released 32 fish between 40 and 52 inches. That was over course of four hours of fishing.

What makes this fishery so unique is the way in which we can now catch these fish. They are caught using popping cork rigs or topwater poppers on light tackle or even fly tackle. Once a bait fishery, this fishery is now a world class artificial fishery and it's truly one of Beaufort County's greatest treasures for fishing enthusiasts.

Capt. Richard Andrews is a resident of Washington and the owner of a local year-round guide service offering fishing excursions on the Pamlico and nearby rivers. He can be reached at 252-945-9715 or richard@ tarpamguide. com

50 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

WORD ON WINE

Finding a good wine

Written by Virginia Finnerty

G

ood wine . . . all wine lovers love a good bottle of wine. The thing is, not all “good” wines taste good to all wine drinkers. Like beauty, taste is in the eye of the beholder or in the case of wine (no pun intended) in our taste buds. So, how do we know? How can we tell?

The easiest way to know of course is to actually taste the wines. Unfortunately, that is most often not possible. We can also read reviews and tasting notes, look for award winners and last, but certainly not least, ask for a recommendation from a friend or wine steward.

When asking for a recommendation, however, it’s not enough to just ask the question — we must also provide details of our preferences beyond red or white: dry, off dry, sweet, oaky, buttery, etc. We need to be sure to mention brands, vineyards or regions we already know we like.

We should also specify if we’re looking for a wine to accompany a meal, just for sipping or one with which we can do both. This information is essential to finding those wines our taste buds will like.

Things to keep in mind: Good wine does not have to be expensive or old.

"Older wines aren't necessarily better. Many wines under $15 are intended to be enjoyed young. In general, you can drink whites one to two years and reds two to three years after bottling. Higher-end wines have more staying power and can last three to 10 years or more," says Peter Click, president and founder of The Click Wine Group (Fat Bastard Wines).

Pay attention to labels.

Not to imply beautiful labels equal good wines.

They can however, provide you with a lot of information such as producers name, country and/or region of origin, grape variety, alcohol content, aging process and flavors, which can later help you find similar wines if you like them or avoid them if you don’t.

Complex and balanced wines, ones that have many different flavors that linger are considered better wines.

Have an open mind, get out of your comfort zone, and try new and different wines and vineyards. It will help you compare and learn because you don’t know what you don’t know.

I’m sure we can all agree wine drinking is all about pleasure and enjoyment; as a result, we're always looking for a “good” bottle of wine. Remember the best wine is the one YOU like.

Virginia Finnerty is owner of Pamlico House Bed & Breakfast and proprietor of its inhouse wine store.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 51

LET’S EAT

Local luxuries 52 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Crab Cakes

Seafood a not so hidden local treasure Written by KEVIN SCOTT CUTLER Food PREPARATION By JANE OLSEN AND VAIL STEWART RUMLEY | PHOTOS by VAIL STEWART RUMLEY

W

hile the theme of this issue of Washington the Magazine is Hidden Treasures, one facet of life along the Pamlico River is not so hidden after all.

Seafood ... fish, shrimp, crabs and oysters, fresh from local waters ... is a staple on many dining tables throughout our area. Even folks who don't necessarily want to "catch their own" may still enjoy the offerings from neighborhood seafood stands.

So this month's recipe feature is devoted exclusively to the harvest of the Pamlico, the river or the sound. From appetizers to stew to main courses, these recipes will add a little something extra to any menu.

As always, these recipes can be found among the pages of local fundraising cookbooks and are shared regularly in the Pamlico Pantry column in the Washington Daily News. Enjoy!

Pamlico River Crab Stew Linda Boyer Beaufort County Arts Council 12 large jimmy crabs, cleaned and halved; 12 ears of silver queen corn, cut from the cob; 6 new potatoes, peeled and quartered; 1 large onion, diced; 1 tablespoon of butter; salt and pepper to taste.

Saute onion until tender. Add potatoes and cover with water. Add salt and pepper to taste. Boil for 20 minutes. Add corn; return to boil. Add crabs and simmer for 10 minutes.

Cover table with newspapers. Serve stew in large bowls. Provide crab knives so diners can crack the crab shells and extract the meat. Provide plenty of napkins. Yield: four servings.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 53

Hot Crab Dip

Shrimp Spaghetti

Karen Jarvis Washington Pediatrics

Barbara Smith First Presbyterian Church

1 pound crab meat; 1 (8 ounce) cream cheese; 2 tablespoons chopped onion; 1 tablespoon milk; 1/2 teaspoon horseradish; 1/4 teaspoon salt; 1/3 cup shaved almonds; dash of Worcestershire sauce.

1 1/2 cup butter; 1 cup chopped onions; 1 tablespoon dried parsley flakes; 1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce; 1 teaspoon salt; 1 teaspoon ground black pepper; 1/2 teaspoon dried basil; 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme; 1/2 teaspoon garlic powder; 3 pounds medium fresh shrimp, peeled and deveined; 1 (12 ounce) package thin spaghetti, cooked and drained; 1 (8 ounce) package processed cheese, cut into 1/2 inch pieces.

Blend all ingredients together. Bake 20 minutes at 375 degrees. Serve hot from the oven in a chafing dish.

Shrimp Mousse Mary Catherine Williams Beaufort County Arts Council 2 pounds cooked, peeled and deveined shrimp; 1 can tomato soup, undiluted; 6 ounces cream cheese; 1 envelope plain gelatin; 1/2 cup cold water; 1/4 cup each, diced: green pepper, onion (or to taste), fresh parsley and celery; 1/2 cup mayonnaise.

Heat soup and cream cheese together. Dissolve gelatin in water and add to soup and cream cheese mixture. Cool. Prepare vegetables.

Cut shrimp into large pieces. Mix everything together. Mold and chill. One recipe makes one large fish mold.

Crab Cakes Phyllis Hardison Ware's Chapel United Methodist Church 1 pound fresh boiled and picked crab meat; 1 1/2 teaspoons Old Bay crab seasoning; 1 small onion, finely chopped; 1 small bell pepper, finely chopped; 2 eggs; 1/2 cup Stove Top stuffing; 1/2 cup cheddar cheese, grated.

Combine all ingredients. Make small cakes and fry slowly in vegetable oil until brown.

54 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large skillet, melt butter over medium-high heat. Add onion and cook for five minutes or until tender. Stir in parsley, Worcestershire sauce, salt, pepper, basil, thyme and garlic powder. Pour mixture into a 13 x 9 baking dish; add shrimp, tossing gently to coat. Bake for 25 minutes, stirring occasionally. Remove from oven; stir in spaghetti and cheese. Return to oven and bake five minutes or until cheese is melted, stirring to combine. Serves eight to 10. Serve with green salad and perhaps some fruit. *Note: I made a few changes to this recipe based on what I had handy. In the version pictured, I added some crab I had in the freezer, because I mistakenly bought less shrimp than the recipe called for. I went with fresh herbs, courtesy of Jane Olsen’s herb garden. When using fresh herbs instead of dried, just double what the recipe calls for. An entire wedge of Parmesan in the fridge also made it into the recipe. It’s a delicious pasta recipe, perfect for summer and fall! — Vail

Scalloped Oysters Pam Hodges St. Peter's Episcopal Church 1 quart oysters with juice; 2 boxes oblong buttery crackers, crushed; 1 stick butter, melted; 1 (12 ounce) can evaporated milk; salt and coarsely ground black pepper, to taste.

Layer crushed crackers, one-half of the oysters with juice, salt, pepper and 1/3 melted butter in a 9 x 13 greased baking dish. Repeat first layer. Top with remaining crackers and melted butter. Pour one-half to three-fourths can of evaporated milk over top layer. Crackers should be moist. Bake uncovered 35-40 minutes in a 350 degree oven. Top should be lightly brown, bubbly when done.

Flounder Caught and Cleaned by a Neighbor

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 55

enough to cover each fillet. Line a baking pan with heavy foil to reduce cleanup time. Place fillets in pan, cover with sauce.

Place tomatoes beside fillets. Broil the fillets and tomatoes for a few minutes until the meat is white (done) or longer for well done. Place fillets on a plate with tomato on top. Serve while hot. Salt and pepper to one's taste.

Flounder Caught and Cleaned by a Neighbor Dick Haar Saint Thomas Episcopal Church Per person you need: 2 flounder fillets and 2 thick slices of tomato; prepared yellow mustard; zesty Italian dressing.

Stir dressing and mustard together in a bowl until thick, but runny. )If it seems a little too thick, add dressing. Should be the consistency of 90 weight gear oil.) Make

56 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Fried Oysters Jackie Sadler Tri-Community Ruritan Club 1 1/2 cups cracker meal; 1/4 teaspoon salt; 2 eggs; 1/8 teaspoon black pepper; 1 quart oysters; 2 tablespoons milk; oil for frying.

Combine cracker meal, salt and pepper in medium bowl. Mix egg and milk. Dip oysters in egg mixture and then in cracker meal and place about three high on a plate and set in refrigerator for about 1 1/2 to two hours.

Remove from refrigerator and fry using hot oil for about 1 1/2 to two minutes. Drain on paper towels.

Poach Fish Filets with Broth Cynthia Swarner First Presbyterian Church 2 cups water; 4 scallions, finely chopped; 1 tablespoon minced fresh parsley; 1 tablespoon olive oil; 1 tablespoon lemon juice; 1 bay leaf; 1 1/2 pounds fish fillets; lemon wedges for garnish.

Place all ingredients except fish and lemon wedges in large skillet and bring to boil.

Lower heat to simmer. Cook about five minutes. Place fish in broth, cover and steam in liquid about 10 minutes or less. Do not over-cook. Remove to serving platter; keep warm. Boil down broth for one to two minutes over high heat. Pour broth over fish. Garnish with lemon wedges.

OUT AND ABOUT

Every Saturday through October 11 Saturday Market • Downtown Washington • 8 a.m. to noon. The market begins April 19 and runs through October. The market features local growers of fresh fruit, vegetables, plants and flowers. You will also want to try some delicious, freshbaked goods. You never know what you might find; the products are always changing. Call 252946-3969 for more information.

August 15, September 19 Music in the Streets • Downtown Washington • 6 p.m. Enjoy a wonderful evening with your friends and neighbors in historic downtown Washington. No matter what your musical taste, you will find entertainers to delight you in this musical event. Downtown Washington comes to life, shops stay open late and the restaurants are glad to see you. Call 252946-3969 for information.

Every Thursday night and Saturday morning BCTMA Jams • Union Alley Coffeehouse • The Beaufort County Traditional Music Association invites musicians and listeners to jams every Thursday night from 6:30 p.m. to 8:30 p.m. and every Saturday morning from 10 a.m. to 1 p.m. Musicians and fans are encouraged to attend and play.

There is no admission fee.

CALENDAR August 23 After Jack • Turnage Theater • Pamlico Opry featuring After Jack, a group that has previously taken the Union Alley Coffeehouse by storm. The Pamlico Opry, a series of concerts throughout the summer, is hosted by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. 8 p.m. showtime. For more information or to buy tickets, call the Beaufort County Arts Council at 252-946-2504.

August 23 Mid-Atlantic 12/24 & Century races • Washington High School • The Mid Atlantic 12/24 & Century is an ultra-cycling marathon sanctioned by RAMM & UMCA. Call 252-945-9495 for more information.

August 29, September 26 Art Walk • Downtown Washington • This free-to-the-public showcase of local visual art runs from 5 p.m. to 8 p.m. in downtown Washington’s galleries the last Friday of each month. The monthly event features art in galleries open to browsers, collectors or the plain curious, with refreshments and live entertainment thrown in for good measure.

September 6 St. Thomas & Glebe House History Lecture • Historic Bath • Long time Bath resident, Historic Bath Commission member and St. Thomas Episcopal Church member Josephine Hookway will share the history of North Carolina’s oldest extant church

and the Williams “Glebe” House.

Includes a one-block walk for a tour of the c. 1830 home, which is owned by the Diocese of East Carolina and is being restored to its former glory by St. Thomas Church members. Call 252-9233971 or email bath@ncdcr.gov for more information. (tentative date)

to 4 p.m. The show features quilts made by guild members including hand- and machine-quilted bed and smaller quilts. Quilt-related demonstrations, a boutique of handmade gifts, antique quilt bed turnings, vendors and a donation quilt will also be featured.

Call 252-946-1927 for more information.

September 13 John Dee Holeman and Lightnin' Wells

September 27 The Barefoot Movement

• Turnage Theater • Pamlico Opry featuring John Dee Holeman and Lightnin' Wells, some of the best blues to be found in North Carolina . The Pamlico Opry, a series of concerts throughout the summer, is hosted by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. 8 p.m. showtime. For more information or to buy tickets, call the Beaufort County Arts Council at 252-9462504.

• Turnage Theater • Pamlico Opry featuring The Barefoot Movement, a local bluegrass favorite from afar. The Pamlico Opry, a series of concerts throughout the summer, is hosted by the Beaufort County Traditional Music Association. 8 p.m. showtime. For more information or to buy tickets, call the Beaufort County Arts Council at 252-9462504.

September 20 Intracoastal Waterway Celebration • Downtown Belhaven • Nautical-themed art and crafts.

The art event starts at 9 a.m. and ends at 6 p.m. The day-long celebration features a blessing of the fleet, music, face painting, dancing, trolley rides and boat displays. Dress in a ‘20s outfit and join in the fun.

September 26 - 27 Rainbow of Quilts Show

September 27 Washington/ Beaufort County Alzheimer’s Walk and Education Fair • First Baptist Church • The 2-mile walk in downtown along the waterfront begins at 10:30 a.m. (registration 9-10:15 a.m.). The Education Fair (9 a.m. to noon) provides experts, including ECU doctors, legal aid and health specialists, and free materials to assist caregivers and to educate the public about Alzheimer’s disease. Attendees do not have to walk. For more information, call, Donna Woolard at 252-927-4754.

• Washington Civic Center • The Pamlico River Quilters’ Guild proudly presents our 20th biennial quilt show from 9 a.m.

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 57

e h t Up r e v i r lle i

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58 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

PAST AND PRESENT

A painting of Castle Island by Union soldier Merrill G. Wheelock illustrates a peaceful, prosperous island, centered in Washington’s commerce and trade. During the Civil War, Union forces occupied the island to keep Confederates from accessing the town.

Castle Island 60 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

Castle Island was an important center for commerce. The island served many uses throughout history having been a site for a warehouse for supplies and arms during the Revolutionary War, shipbuilding factories, limekilns, a sawmill, a Civil War battery and even a brothel. Most recently, the island has been used only for recreation and exploration.

Written by JONATHAN ROWE | Photographs by WILL PRESLAR

An important center for commerce

W

ashington holds many hidden treasures, but one, in plain view, has probably caught the eye of most residents and visitors on more than one occasion. It's a small dot of land on the Pamlico River, hardly

one and a half football fields from the Washington waterfront — Castle Island.

Owned by the City of Washington, Castle Island, or the Castle, as it has been referred to in years past, is enjoyed by boaters and kayakers as a recreational destination, although it is a jungle

of thick vegetation and a haven for snakes.

Washington resident and director of the NC Estuarium Blount Rumley says Castle Island is the original of three islands in front of the Washington waterfront.

The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers created the two downriver islands

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 61

Today, Castle Island, located just in front of the NC Estuarium on the Washington Waterfront, is used for recreational purposes. Owned by the town of Washington, there are no current plans to utilize the island for commercial use.

62 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

in 1938 from dredging the river channels to allow boats to more easily navigate the waterway. The landscape of the island has changed a bit due to general erosion and hurricanes.

“Basically, it is an elongated island and all these hurricanes we’ve had recently have washed a lot of it away and it’s lost its original shape,” Rumley said. “There were wharves on either side of it, and now, on the northern side, right up close to shore, you’ve got 25 to 28 feet of water right up next to it. It’s quite a dive to get to the bottom, and on the southern side of the island, away from the waterfront, it’s really shallow over there and has a little sandy beach.”

Historical text says the island was an important center for commerce, serving as a venue for shipbuilding factories, limekilns, a saw mill, a Union army battery during the Civil War and even a brothel.

The earliest history of Castle Island dates back to the Revolutionary War, even before it got its name, according to research done

by East Carolina University.

In the late 18th century, Washington served as an operational base, providing the Continental Army with supplies and arms. Brothers John and Thomas Blount built warehouses on the island and the waterfront, that were used by the Continental Army to store supplies throughout the Revolutionary War. The island has also, according to the research, claimed eleven ship wreckages throughout the centuries.

The wrecks or abandoned watercraft that surround Castle Island give a good idea of how busy the 19th

An 1893 map of the Pamlico River by the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers labels Castle Island and shows how the island used to be shaped. Later, in the 1930s, the engineers dredged the channels in the river creating two downriver islands. Hurricanes and other erosion have changed the shape of the island over the years.

century port town was.

“They’ve actually found the vessels that were sunk and laying on the bottom of the river around Castle Island,” said Ray Midgett, a local historian. “Several of the vessels they found were fairly substantial-sized vessels. This supports the fact that Castle Island was an important center of commerce.”

Castle Island continued its role in Washington’s economy into the turn of the 19th century. In 1818, a pair of brothers from New England— Josiah and Luke Fowle — started a shipbuilding business on the island in front of the Daniel Marsh home.

With the area’s growing shellfish industry, oyster shells became abundant. The island earned its name from the stacks of chimneys attached to the limekilns built on it early in the century. They resembled turrets on a castle. The

kilns converted oyster shells to lime for the production of cement and for agricultural use.

“They had to do something with all those oyster shells so they baked all of them to get lime,” Rumley said. “They utilized the lime for agricultural use and sprayed it on fields. What is left of the kiln are big thick walls and it still has oyster shells in it now so there’s evidence of that.”

In 1863, the Union army took Washington and set up fortifications all around town. They built a fort on the island to strengthen their lines when the Confederates attempted to siege the town.

“They created a fort there to stop some of the Southern forces from gaining access to the town and beyond,” Rumley said.

A Union soldier, Merrill G. Wheelock, painted a peaceful

SEPTEMBER 2014 | WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE • 63

A painting in Frank Leslie’s Illustrated Newspaper shows the shelling of Rebel batteries in the woods opposite Washington in 1863.

watercolor scene of the island and a Washington wharf during the occupation of the town. The painting depicts the commercial use of the island and shows structures built and operated on the island.

In the late 1880s, a member of a lumber firm in Philadelphia came to the South to run a lumber manufacturing business. The man, Clarence Branning, operated a sawmill on Castle Island after purchasing the property from the Fowle brothers.

By the early 20th century, commerce on the island slowed down significantly. There was a period of time a man named Doc Bryan operated a fishery on the island and a family lived on the island and had a small fish camp there, but the island hasn’t been used commercially since the 1930s.

The last known business to be conducted on the island was that run by a lady commonly referred to as the “Castle Queen” during the 1930s and 1940s, Midgett says. Several books mention it, but information about the brothel is scarce. Rumley says, however, gentlemen frequently visited her from Washington. The “queen” birthed a child and, based on the birth certificate, it was born on the island, Rumley says.

More recently, in the late 1980s and early 1990s, efforts were made to reclaim the island

64 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

for public use. According to Rumley and Midgett, goats were put on the island to cut down some of its thick vegetation. A book by Bland Simpson, “A Carolinian’s Sound Country Chronicle: the Inner Islands” says the Chamber of Commerce had the idea to put goats on the island. This was a first line of attack toward reclaiming the island for use by Washington’s townspeople. The goats ended up in the spotlight of local television when hurricanes Bertha and Fran came through Beaufort County in 1996. According to Simpson’s book, the goats perished in the hurricanes, although the chamber claimed to have removed them prior to the storms.

The plan behind this was to convert the island to a park with a lighted fountain and fit it with piers, wooden plank ways, and a bulkhead as well as to utilize its sandy beach on the opposite side.

Visiting the island today, under the thick brush and vegetation that consumes it, one would find remnants of the operations that made the island a big part of the town’s economy, Midgett says.

Currently, there are no known plans to use the island for anything more than a recreational destination and a conservation site, but fragments of the past can be found scattered on and around the island, reinforcing the fact it was centered in Washington’s commerce.

Y’ALL COME BACK

Why I love Washington

From the Far East (of N.C.)

I

Written by RAY MIDGETT

’ve always been an eastern North Carolina boy, living my teen years about as far east as one can go in our state, on Hatteras Island. But even earlier, as my family followed my father up and down the East Coast in pursuit of his Coast Guard career, Hatteras and eastern North Carolina always served as the hook that anchored us to our roots. But following college graduation, I found myself inland pursuing a career in public education, working for over 30 years in several Piedmont school districts.

But all the while, I dreamt of returning to the coast despite the knowledge that Thomas Wolfe’s famous quote “You can't go home again” was surely true.

After raising families and reaching that delightful point in life when retirement becomes a possibility, my wife D.J. and I started making plans. We turned our gaze in the direction of the rising sun and looked toward eastern North Carolina as a possible retirement destination. We quickly ruled out Hatteras Island considering the high cost of living on the Outer Banks and the limited budget of retired educators. Health services were also an important consideration and the distance from the island to medical facilities was too great.

So in 2003, while returning west on US 64 from a trip to the Outer Banks, I suggested that we take a detour down NC 32 and check out Washington. Growing up, I often heard stories of Washington (always prefaced with “Little”) including tales of my grandfather Luey hauling oysters across the sound and up the Pamlico River to the town. I wanted to check it out. We turned south and after about forty minutes of driving through the beautiful Beaufort County countryside, we rolled down Market Street and parked along Stewart Parkway. The charm of the waterfront and the downtown made an immediate impression on us both. D.J. and I had identified three requirements for our retirement home: a charming older house in a town with historical character that was near the water. Washington’s certainly seemed to offer all three, but the decision to locate here wasn’t sealed quite yet. We headed back to the Piedmont.

66 • WASHINGTON THE MAGAZINE | SEPTEMBER 2014

As it turned out the following year, we decided to charter a sailboat from Washington’s Carolina Wind marina and along with our close friends Carol and Ed headed down the Pamlico River towards Ocracoke.

Despite weathering a squall with severe lightning, motoring because of little wind, and enduring an Ray Midgett overflowing holding tank (Ed and I blamed the women), we were all struck by the beauty of the Pamlico River and the lack of boat traffic was a pleasant surprise. Upon making passage back to Washington and sailing through the railroad trestle, the decision was made. Washington was going to be our new home. Over a late lunch at Wendy’s, D.J. and I made plans to return in the fall and begin the search for our ideal retirement home.

Following numerous return visits to Washington and walking through a myriad of houses, we found our “perfect” 1924 Craftsman bungalow with a wide porch and a superb view of the river. But the real treasure of Washington we didn’t find until after we moved and discovered the community. Connections and new friends were soon formed, through D.J.’s work at Washington High School, through my job with the City of Washington and through our First United Methodist Church family.

Everywhere we went, we were welcomed with open arms, even though we weren’t “from around here.” We never doubted that we had landed in the perfect town for us and that we were truly blessed.

Unfortunately, I recently lost D.J. following her long battle with cancer. The love and concern that the Washington community has shown me as I try to find my “new normal” has been overwhelming. I am often asked if I plan to stay in Washington. The answer is a resounding, “yes” as I’ve discovered, I surely have “come home again.”

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