Wine Dine & Travel - Winter 2014

WINE DINE &

TRAVEL WINTER EDITION JAN-MARCH 2014

GREAT! BRITAIN FLAT BROKE IN LONDON CHURCHILL’S WAR ROOMS THE REAL DOWNTON ABBEY WESTMINSTER ABBEY THE “TOY “ RAILROAD OF WALES THE OXFORD EXPERIENCE

ANTARCTICA ADVENTURE RETREAT TO SAWTOOTH KAUAI ADVENTURE SAVOR NORWAY

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 1

Wine, Dine & Travel

with Authors

Connect with authors and their books on an intimate basis through unique, interesting & adventurous travels & events

Join Us On Our Next Great Adventure. www.AdventuresBytheBook.com

“Adventure Under the Tuscan Sun� with authors Frances Mayes & Dario Castagno

2 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

COVER PHOTO: One of the joys of travel is the serendipity. While walking in London’s St. James ‘s Park one morning we spotted the mounted Royal Horse Guard on their way to Whitehall Parade Grounds. We followed them and watched them perform a changing of the guard and an unexpected concert. I took this shot with a FUJI Finepix HS30 exr . ~ Ron James

NEXT EDITION | SPRING 2014

INDIA NEPAL

Cruising the Panama Canal

Normandy: A Visit to Omaha Beach A Photographer’s Guide to Bruges, Belguim Meeting Henry VIII at Hampton Court NYC Dinner and a Broadway Show

New next issue: Susan McBeth’s TRAVEL BY THE BOOK

Planning a vacation to an exotic destination, or perhaps just dreaming of one? Let a good book transport you to places you’ve often only dared to imagine. Don’t miss Susan McBeth’s “Travel by the Book“ for good reads that will whisk you away.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 3

STERLING TOURS LTD THE DEFINITION OF EXTRAORDINARY

Experience the Sterling difference, and make sure your next journey is beyond the ordinary Travel, whether as an individual or a member of a group, is a highly personal experience.

Today the variety of trips from which you can choose is so diverse that virtually everyone’s travel fantasy can be brought to reality.

You don’t have to settle for standard, routine trip plans. Hidden away among all the confusing web-sites and colorful brochures are intriguing, creative, imaginative trips offering the fulfillment of all your expectations.

We specialize in finding programs that match the needs of discriminating travelers looking for a highly personal experience. We use the facilities of established, reputable companies, providing quality service and high levels of comfort and convenience.

TOURS NOW AVAILABLE: MORROCO | NEW ENGLAND | CALIFORNIA WINE COUNTRY | AUSTRIALA

www.sterlingtoursltd.com | 800-976 9497 4 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

RON JAMES

publisher/executive editor

CHEERS

M

uch has happened since Wine Dine & Travel Magazine premiered three months ago. We have traveled extensively – from the great ports of the Saint Lawrence Seaway and New England to India and Nepal, and our adventures in all those places will be chronicled in future issues. As exciting as our travels have been, the reception of our first issue featuring Amsterdam was perhaps just as rewarding.

Ron James is the "wine and food guy." He is a nationaly award-winning journalist., television producer and radio personality. He is a pioneer in online journalism with the first major online city publication, San Diego Magazine. He helped implement Time Warner's Road Runner network and led the San Diego Union-Tribune's online editorial efforts for nearly a decade. The native Californian's nationally syndicated wine and food columns have appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. He is passionate about great wine and food and enthusiastically enjoys them every day!

MARY JAMES publisher/editor

We were thrilled by the hundreds of enthusiastic comments we received about the magazine. Also gratifying was fact that more than 100,000 travel enthusiasts from almost every country on the planet enjoyed it from their homes and work. We thank those of you who loved the magazine and passed the link to friends and colleagues.

Despite the travel schedule, we managed to birth a new edition of the magazine which is 16 pages thicker and we think even better.

In it we welcome three newcomers to our family of contributors Maribeth Mellin, Priscilla Lister and Nancy Carol Carter. All of our contributors have three things in common: They love travel, they are veteran journalists and they are our friends. We hope you appreciate them as much as we do.

We also hope you enjoy our in-depth foray into Great Britain. This exciting destination rich with history and beauty is a favorite of most travel writers, especially our friends and fellow travelers Sharon and Carl Larsen. They contributed four stories including visits to the historic Churchill War Rooms and the real Downton Abbey.

Other features travel the globe to explore Idaho’s Sawtooth wilderness, share adventures in Kauai, sample great eats in Norway and view the stunning landscape of Antarctica.

Mary Hellman James is an award-winning San Diego journalist and editor. After a 29-yearcareer with the San Diego Union-Tribune, including 13 years as Home and Garden editor, James currently is a freelance garden writer and a columnist for San Diego Home-Garden/Lifestyles magazine. She also is executive editor of California Garden, the award-winning 102-year-old magazine published by the San Diego Floral Association. She and her husband, Ron James, travel extensively. Upcoming this year is a an Asian cruise and a first visit to the Black Sea and the Holy Land.

While you’re enjoying this issue’s entertaining trip around the world, we’ll be working on the next issue. In it we’ll share adventures in India and Nepal as well as a transit the Panama Canal as it celebrates its centenary. In between our editorial work, we’ll squeeze in an Asian cruise with stops in Hong Kong, Viet Nam, Thailand and Singapore.

Enjoy the magazine and Bon Voyage wherever you may travel.

Ron & Mary James

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 5

Alison DaRosa

CONTRIBUTORS

Alison DaRosa is a six-time winner of the Lowell Thomas Gold Award for travel writing, the most prestigious prize in travel journalism. She served 15 years as Travel Editor of the San Diego Union-Tribune. She was the award-winning editor of the San Diego News Network Travel Page. She produces and edits the San Diego Essential Guide, a highly rated and continually updated travel app for mobile devices. Alison is a regular freelance contributor to the travel sections of U-T San Diego, the Los Angeles Times and USA Today.

Sharon Whitley Larsen

Sharon Whitley Larsen’s work has appeared in numerous publications, including Los Angeles Times Magazine, U-T San Diego, Reader’s Digest (and 19 international editions), Creators Syndicate, and several “Chicken Soup for the Soul” editions. Although she enjoys writing essays, op-ed, and people features, her favorite topic is travel (favorite destination London). She’s been lucky to attend a private evening champagne reception in Buckingham Palace to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee, to dine with best-selling author Diana Gabaldon in the Scottish Highlands, and hike with a barefoot Aborigine in the Australian Outback. Exploring sites from exotic travels in the Arctic Circle to ritzy Rio, with passport in hand, she’s always ready for the next adventure!

Carl H. Larsen Carl H. Larsen is a veteran journalist based in San Diego. He now focuses on travel writing, and is summoned to pull out his notebook whenever there’s the plaintive cry of a steam locomotive nearby. His hike along Hadrian’s Wall was a bit off character, but allowed for an exploration of remote pubs and welcoming B&Bs. In San Diego, he is a college-extension instructor who has led courses on the Titanic and the popular TV series “Downton Abbey.”

John Alongé

Popularly known as the Wine Heretic, John Alongé is a well-respected “educational entertainer” on food and wine topics. He has written a variety of articles for international wine publications and is oft-quoted in food and wine industry trade journals. Alongé began his career working in the vineyards of the Loire Valley in France. He has studied at both the Ecole d’Oenologie in Bordeaux as well as UC Davis Extension in viticulture and viniculture. “The Wine Heretic’s Bible”, Alongé’s latest book, offers “Plain English Advice for the Casual Wino”.

Maribeth Mellin

Maribeth Mellin is an award-winning journalist whose travel articles have appeared in Endless Vacation Magazine, U-T San Diego and Dallas Morning News among others. She also travels and writes for several websites including CNN Travel, Concierge.com and Zagat, and has authored travel books on Peru, Argentina, Costa Rica, Mexico, Hawaii and California. Though known as a Mexico pro, Maribeth has written about every continent and was especially thrilled by the ice, air and penguins in Antarctica.

Priscilla Lister Priscilla Lister is a longtime journalist in her native San Diego. She has covered a many subjects over the years, but travel is her favorite. Her work, including photography, has appeared in the U-T San Diego, Los Angeles Times, Alaska Airlines magazine and numerous other publications throughout the U.S. and Canada. She currently writes a weekly hiking column for the U-T, photographing every trail and its many wonders. But when the distant road beckons, she can’t wait to pack her bags.

Nancy Carol Carter Nancy Carol Carter writes and lectures on horticulture and landscape history, nurserywoman Kate O. Sessions, San Diego’s Balboa Park, and related topics. In addition to annual visits to England, her itching feet have taken her to 50 other countries across the globe. She is an Associate Editor of California Garden magazine and has published in the Journal of San Diego History, Eden--Journal of the California Garden and Landscape History Society and Pacific Horticulture.

Robert Whitley Robert Whitley writes the syndicated “Wine Talk” column for Creators Syndicate and is publisher of the online wine magazine, Wine Review Online. Whitley frequently serves as a judge at wine competitions around the world, including Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Sunset Magazine International and the Dallas Morning News TexSom wine competitions. Robert also operates four major international wine competitions in San Diego: Critics Challenge, Winemaker Challenge, Sommelier Challenge and the San Diego International.

6 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

WINE DINE &

PUBLISHERS Ron & Mary James EXECUTIVE EDITOR /ART DIRECTOR Ron James EDITOR Mary James CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Sharon Whitley Larsen Carl Larsen Alison DaRosa John Alongé Robert Whitley Maribeth Mellin Priscilla Lister Nancy Carol Carter Julia Weiler John Muncie Jody Jaffe Photo by Ron James

Susan McBeth WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM CONTACT editor@winedineandtravel.com WDT respects the intellectual property rights of others, and we ask that our readers do the same. We have adopted a policy in accordance with the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (“DMCA”) and other applicable laws.

Our old friend Ringo at the Chelsea Flower Show in London where he just found out about Wine Dine & Travel Magazine and ordered two copies on the spot.

Wine Dine & Travel Magazine is a Wine Country Interactive Inc. company @ 2014

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 7

8 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Prime Minister Winston Churchill, successfully conducted World War II operations here.

Many of the rooms are eerily left—or at least reconstructed-just as they were during those dark days from 19391945.

30

The royals are married here and more than 3,000 people are buried here including 17 English monarchs.

THE REAL DOWNTON ABBEY

The plan was to live like a local in London Town. But the best laid plans sometimes have a mind of their own.

26

WESTMINSTER

A dozen must-visit destinations in London. Whether you’re a London regular or a first-timer, this list is most essential.

16

CHURCHILL WAR ROOMS & MUSEUM

10

FLAT BROKE IN LONDON

ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LONDON

CONTENTS

36

“Downton Abbey” fans are drawn here by the TV series, but the unexpected story they find at Highclere is even more compelling than the romantic, political and financial exploits of the fictional Crawleys and their cadre of servants.

Dine in postcardperfect island villages frozen in time, feasting on delectable seafood dishes worth their high prices. Norway will cost you, but your memories will be worth it.

66

It is the oldest and northernmost of the four major Hawaiian Islands – and its 64,000 residents aim to preserve its rugged, relaxed individuality as well as its wild natural beauty.

VOYAGE TO ANTARCTICA

Visitors can ride behind the most powerful narrowgauge steam locomotives in the world, visit an iconic castle dating to the 13th century and enjoy the wild and spectacular scenery of north Wales.

60

KAUAI HAS IT ALL

50

SAVOR NORWAY

This summer school program invites the world to spend one to six weeks in residence at Christ Church, studying with a tutor, living in college rooms and eating three meals a day under the vaulted ceiling of the great hall (think Harry Potter and Hogwarts).

STEAM DREAMS

THE OXFORD EXPERIENCE

42

76

More than 90 percent of earth’s ice covers Antarctica, rippling across plateaus, slithering into mountain creases. The deepest ice, smashed until all air has escaped, is the purest blue you’ll ever see.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 9

WDT ESSENTIAL GUIDES

LONDON 12 ESSENTIAL THINGS TO DO

T

here are so many facinating and fun things to do and see in London that it is almost unfair to try to distill a list to a dozen.

When we broached the idea to some of our contributors they all had favorites that fit their interests and expertise. The following list represents the places most agreed upon for first-time vistors and they are not in any particular order.

Photos by Ron James unless otherwise marked

1

TOWER OF LONDON The historic castle on the north bank of the River Thames in central London is a must for visitors to get a feel of early English history and culture. Despite the Tower of London’s grim reputation as a place of torture and death, within these walls you will also discover the history of a royal palace, an armoury and a powerful fortress. Discover the Crown Jewels, the awe-inspiring symbols of monarchy that are still in use today. Don’t miss the royal ravens and learn about the wild and wondrous animals that have inhabited the Tower, making it the first London Zoo. - www.hrp.org.uk/TowerOfLondon/

photo courtesy Visit Britain

10 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

photo courtesy Visit Britain

2

WALK IN ST. JAMES’S PARK

Actually take a walk in any of the gorgeous 5,000 acres of royal parks in the city of London. All are wondrous but there’s magic as you stroll through historic St . .James’s Park with its lake, fountains and bird life. Every year millions of Londoners and tourists visit St. James’s Park, the oldest of the capital’s eight Royal Parks.

photo from WIKI photos

The park includes The Mall and Horse Guards Parade and is at the heart of ceremonial London, providing the setting for spectacular pageants including the annual Trooping the Color. - www.royalparks.org.uk/

3&4

photo coutesy Matilda

GO TO A DINNER AND A PLAY Blame it on Shakespeare, but you can’t see better live theater than in London... especially for the value compared to NYC where a second mortgage is necessary to see a hit show like the amazing musical “Matilda.” To make a really special day, dine at one of the city’s world-class restaurants before or after the show.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 11

WDT ESSENTIAL GUIDES

5

THE LONDON EYE

photo by Ron James

The Millennium Wheel now called the EDF Energy London Eye has become an iconic landmark and a symbol of modern Britain.

The London Eye is the UK’s most popular paid for visitor attraction. A breathtaking feat of design and engineering completed in 2000.

Passengers in the London Eye’s capsules can see up to 25 miles in all directions. Each rotation takes about 30 minutes, meaning a capsule travels at a stately 0.6 miles per hour - twice as fast as a tortoise sprinting. This allows passengers to step on and off without stopping the wheel.

Photo courtesy of Visit Britain

7

BUCKINGHAM PALACE

Buckingham Palace has served as the official London residence of Britain’s sovereigns since 1837 and today is the administrative headquarters of the Monarch.

Buckingham Palace has 775 rooms. These include 19 State rooms, 52 Royal and guest bedrooms, 188 staff bedrooms, 92 offices and 78 bathrooms. .

The Palace is very much a working building and the centerpiece of Britain’s constitutional monarchy. Thousands of visitors throng to the site each day to see the changing of the guard.

12 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

6

WESTMINSTER ABBEY The landmark Westminster Abbey is steeped in more than a thousand years of history. Benedictine monks first came to this site in the middle of the tenth century, establishing a tradition of daily worship which continues to this day.

The Abbey has been the coronation church since 1066 and is the final resting place of 17 monarchs. The present church was begun by Henry III in 1245.

8

THE ROYAL HORSE GUARDS IN CONCERT AND SADDLE

Experience one of the most unusual concerts anywhere as the Royal Horse Guards mounted band plays hits from Souza to Adele.

They perform at the Whitehall Parade Grounds on a somewhat irregular basis depending upon the weather and other commitments. The parade grounds was formerly the site of the Palace of Whitehall’s tiltyard, where tournaments (including jousting) were held in the time of Henry VIII. www.army.mod.uk/music/24857.aspx

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 13

photo by Ron James

9

HARROD’S DEPARTMENT STORE Shop in the famous five-acre department store just as Oscar Wilde, Lillie Langtry, Ellen Terry, Charlie Chaplin, Noël Coward, and many members of the British Royal Family did. Founded in 1824 the ultra-upscale store has 330 departments,and 32 restaurants, serving everything from high tea to tapas to pub food to haute cuisine. Harrod’s isn’t the only game in town when it comes to shopping. London is world-famous for its boutiques and high-end stores. Among major specialty stores is Fortnum & Mason.

Quintessential English, Fortnum & Mason has been selling food, and goods to London’s finest since 1707. Other significant department stores include Harvey Nichols, Selfridges or Liberty.

10

HAMPTON COURT PALACE

Definitely one of the most interesting destinations in England, Hampton Court is a royal palace in the London Borough of Richmond upon Thames. It was originally built for Cardinal Thomas Wolsey and was passed to the King Henry VIII, who enlarged it. The palace tours and exhibits are facinating and you can engage in small talk with many of the royals (actors) who made the place home. Visitors can experience the dark side by taking a ghost tour and find out what spooked some of Hampton Court Palace’s past residents as you are guided around the palace courtyards at night. www.hrp.org.uk

14 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

pphoto courtesy British Museum

11 12

THE BRITISH MUSEUM

There are museums and then there is the British Museum. Jaw-droppingly awesome, it’s home to the Rosetta stone and countless other rare artifacts and works collected during the expansion of the empire. Its permanent collection, numbering some 8 million works, is among the largest and most comprehensive in existence and originates from all continents, illustrating and documenting the story of human culture from its beginnings to the present. The museum offers a broad range of exciting shows and exhibits throughout the year. www.britishmuseum.org/

KEW GARDENS & PALACE

Enjoy the seasonal colors, explore glasshouses, galleries and landscapes and discover 250 years of history at the world’s most famous gardens. Climb among the treetops, discover tropical plants or learn more about Kew on a guided tour. The Royal Botanic Gardens boast the world’s largest collection of living plants and employ more than 650 scientists and other staff. The collections include more than 30,000 different plants and have over 7 million preserved plant specimens. In July 2003, the gardens were put on the list of World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. www. kew.org/

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 15

FLAT BROKE IN LONDON

M

Story & Photos By Ron James

ost travelers follow a standard routine on vacation. They arrive, check into a hotel or B&B, visit local tourist attractions, eat and drink at recommended restaurants and watering holes, checkout and go home. However many travelers want a richer experience at their favorite destinations; they want to live like a native – even if it’s only for a week.

That was our goal when we decided to rent a flat for a 10-day stay in Lon16 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

don, following a cruise from San Diego through the Panama Canal and across the Atlantic to England. We hoped to

get to know our neighbors, shop at local farmers markets, cook some meals and become regulars at the local pub. By the end of the stay, we would feel like Londoners and have new British friends who would stay in touch for years to come. That was the plan.

A well-located flat was key to the plan.

Finding one should be easy, I told my wife Mary, because there is a Craigslist in London. And indeed, my first foray into vacation rentals found a goldmine of wonderful sounding offerings at a

fraction of the cost of London hotels. I was excited … until I noticed something troubling. Very few of the ads included agents or phone numbers. Could all of these be scams? Probably I quickly discovered.

As a test, I sent an email inquiry about a 1,600-square-foot place in central London listed for £60 daily on Craigslist.

“Mark” replied within minutes (even though it was the middle of the night in London), letting me know a £430 deposit would reserve the flat and advising me to right away “before someone else does.”

Now, pretty much smelling a rat, I asked how to send the deposit. Wire the money to a bank was the quick response. I replied that a London friend would deliver a cashier’s check only after inspecting the property to be sure it was as represented. Sorry, Mark replied. The place is always rented and the tenants can’t be disturbed. A bank transfer was the only option. Nice try – but no way, Bozo.

Such scams are common around the world, I discovered. But I also learned there are numerous legitimate vacation rental brokers who could make my vision come true. I turned to One Fine Stay, a company with a good track record and high praise on Trip Advisor. In their listings, I spotted the perfect flat.

Here’s the description: “This is the art of small at its very best. There is something undeniably satisfying about the clever pithiness of this light filled studio apartment. Like a self-contained pod in the heart of Westminster, this is the perfect hideout from which to explore the city’s heritage, architecture and culture, both ancient and modern. Within minutes you can be loitering outside the ornate wrought iron gates of Buckingham Palace, gazing up at the gothic stone spires of Westminster Abbey, or enjoying the grand formalities of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.”

Left top: In our London flat Ron James is not in another room as it appears in his photo.

It’s all done with mirrors. Left bottom: A photo of a flat for rent on Craigslist that was too good to be true. Right top: A photo The fine print on the One Fine Stay website from the online brocure of our flat with a did warn that the flat was small, but also large mirror giving the illusion of another said it was perfect for two people. After al- room with a large kitchen. Bottom right: most a month in a tiny cruise-ship cabin, The representative from One Fine Stay we thought that small would be fine. Plus demonstrates the courtesy iPhone. it didn’t look small in the website pictures.

Unlike the to-good-to-be-true rates of- We applied and paid the deposit, certain fered by the scam artists, our legitimate our dreamed about live-like-a-Londoner flat rental wasn’t a bargain at $226 per day. vacation would be a reality.

There were lots of hotel deals in that price range. And the large damage deposits required on vacation rentals will take a good dent out of your cash flow.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 17

photo courtesy Celebrity Cruises

Our cruise ended in Harwich, England, and we travelled by van cracked sidewalk. I was so glad I had done my homework on the to our London digs with three other couples. First stop was the location of our flat as the van headed toward its next stop – our rented flat of two fellow passengers, an apartment in a sea of drab home-away-from-home. As we got close, one fellow passenger row-houses miles away from central London. We waved goodbye who had been to London many times told us it was a terrific area to our fellow adventurers as they hauled their luggage down the – in the heart of everything, he said. I smugly agreed.

18 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

The van dropped us a non-descript, brick building, less than three blocks away Buckingham Palace. Gazing at the unimpressive entrance, I felt anxiety rising. A pint and a bite at the pub a half a block away filled the time while we waited for the One Fine Stay representative and somewhat restored my confidence.

Though the pub was cold and the food disappointing, the welcome was warm and I could see myself here laughing and chatting with locals in the days ahead.

A young man was waiting for us when we returned and helped us lug suitcases into the nondescript lobby. Our flat was located on the third floor, said the fellow as he summoned the lift. When the door opened, I was stunned; I’d seen telephone booths larger than this elevator.

Three trips later, we wheeled all the bags down the gloomy hallway, through the unlocked door and into our flat.

It was tiny. Our balcony cabin on the ship was a royal suite by comparison.

Large mirrors on the walls, though, created the impression of several rooms and explained why the web photos made it look big enough. The all-white décor was stylish – and also helped created an illusion of space. But in reality there was only about 7 feet between the couch and the wall opposite; the kitchenette was less than 3-feet away from couch armLeft top: Mary James checking e-mails on a make shift desk. Left bottom: Our cabin on the Celebrity Infinity. Right top: The St. James Hotel, just a block away from the flat on Buckingham Gate Road. Bottom right: The iconic red British phone booth is about the same size as the elevator to our flat.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 19

rest. The room, including the kitchen, bed and built-in storage was about 120 square feet, considerably smaller than the ship’s cabin we had just abandoned that morning.

The agent ignored our remarks about the size as he cheerfully presented us with the One Fine Stay gift basket and went over guidelines for our stay.

The company supplies guests with an iPhone with maps of the area, the flat owner’s restaurant recommendations and important contact numbers.

After he left we carefully explored the entire suite which took all of 30 seconds. A modern bathroom with a glassed-in shower made us feel better.

Until Mary asked, “Where’s the sink?”

We looked behind some louvered doors at the entrance, but they only con20 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

cealed a small closet and a few empty Broke and Down drawers. (The remaining drawers were taped shut to protect the owner’s pos- When we returned to our flat, we sessions.) Then it dawned on me – that couldn’t believe our eyes. Our tiny doimpressive round soap dish in the main was even tinier. The white couch shower wasn’t a soap dish, it was the was now a white double bed. Around it bathroom sink! At least there was one, was a narrow corridor, our passage to the bath and the kitchenette. “Where we sighed. are we going to put the luggage?” asked When the promised cleaning team ar- Mary. I shrugged, still in a bit of shock, rived, we had no choice but to leave – as she disappeared into the bathroom there wasn’t room for four us. So we with the sink in the shower. headed out to explore our new ‘hood – with mixed results. Yes we were close I sank onto the bed to assess our plight. to Buckingham Palace and adjacent I noticed it was a bit short for my 6-foot gardens and parks. But we were also frame and that there was no headboard, in a maze of quiet government build- as pillows tumbled to the floor. I slowly ings and the shops, hotels, pubs and rolled across the five-inch foam matrestaurants that served them. Maybe tress when suddenly our flat was filled the area would come to life at the end with the sound of snapping metal. I was of the work day, we hoped. lodged in a crevice, afraid to move and cause the entire bed to collapse.

Mary rushed in to see what the racket was all about. She looked at me and the bed, and then shook her head. “The toilet doesn’t work,” she said.

We both started to laugh. No doubt - our flat was broke.

Gingerly I got out of bed and put the iPhone to work to contact One Fine Stay. Within an hour, an engineer (maintenance man) appeared at the door. Two hours later, he had the bed When we returned, it was lights out. We level and the toilet flushing. The own- both nodded off quickly, but in about ers, it seems, had turned the water off three hours I was awake. There was in the bathroom because of an irritat- a noise, like a muted jack hammer. It ing noise. We crowded into the loo, would go for a while and then stop. It flushed and listened. Thankfully all was was just loud enough to be irritating. quiet. We left shortly after he did, in I’d dozed off for a while and then jerk search of dinner. There was no way we awake as the rubber jackhammer rattled would be cooking at home tonight to life. By now, I was trying to solve the

problem, knowing full well it was the noise the owners had heard. It was, of course, the toilet.

I began to count the seconds between jackhammer events. The interval was the same three times in a row. Then my experience with home repair came into play and I deduced the cause. The toilet Left: Mary James in front of Buckingham Palace, just a couple of blocks from her tiny flat. Right top: Ron and Mary ate out -- many times. A tasty sandwich from one of several delis in the neighborhood was convenient for breakfast and lunch. Bottom right: A teapot for sale at a Buckingham Palace gift shop; Keep Calm and Carry On became our mantra.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 21

was leaking a steady amount of water and when the level dropped to a certain point, the valve and water pump (jackhammer) would kick in to replenish the reservoir. Exhausted, but mentally satisfied, I slept like a baby for the rest of the night.

The engineer was back in the morning.

He was skeptical about my theory, but when a test proved I was correct, he spent the rest of the morning replacing all the valves and seals. Life was good – the bed was still standing and the jackhammer was silenced.

Small is Kind of Beautiful After a day or two, we adjusted to life in our tiny flat. It was a welcome cocoon, especially after damp cold days of touring and on evenings when the rain rattled against the windows.

Did we enjoy ourselves? Yes. London was as diverting as ever. The one outstanding plus about out little abode was location.

We strolled several times through the John Nash designed green spaces of historic St. James’s Park. And we discovered the city’s exclusive high-end boutiques, and upscale cafes in Belgravia, and nearby Knightsbridge and Kensington.

There was art in abundance at dozens of galleries and museums within walking distance. And we experienced our share of traveler’s luck, by chance hearing a concert by the Royal Horse Guards, for example, the included a melancholy rendition of “Skyfall.” A friend took us on a gallery walk that ended with dinner at a fun wine bar; we enjoyed a matinee of “Matilda” and traveled outside of the city to visit Hampton Court Palace for the first time.

Instead of the money we planned to save making many of our own meals we ended up eating out or grabbing some take-out because there was no room to do anything in the kitchen except heat the kettle for coffee in the morning. And in the end, the isolation of the tiny flat located in an area with few permanent households did more But our live-like-a-native dream faded to diminish the dream than to facilitate it. away quickly. We never saw, much less met, anyone in our building. The nearby Would we rent a flat again in London? pubs catered mostly to office workers and Probably not. But given the right circumgenerally were all but empty during the stance we would give it another shot… day and many evenings, except Thursdays especially if were traveling with a larger and Fridays when they were too crowded group of friends or family– maybe in Tusto get a seat. All were busy talking to each cany or in the French wine country. other, much too involved with each other On our last day, we had dinner with our cruise buddies who had opted for a to adopt a stray couple of Yanks.

22 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

hotel. We could only envy their tales of their free upgrade to a spacious suite, the comforts of room service and free booze and the friends made in the complimentary club lounge. But I couldn’t help myself to ask, with a grin and just a bit of smugness: “That’s nice, but did you have an adventure?”

Left: Ron and Mary’s flat was located on Buckingham Gate road which was populated with architecturally significant non-residential buildings like this one. Right: The Westminster neighborhood is home to a great many historic pubs like this one on Victoria Street a few blocks away from the flat.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 23

S AM

How to Avoid Vacation Rental

SC

By Tom Gilmore

The height of summer vacation planning is here, and families are on the hunt for affordable travel options to destinations where they can relax and enjoy a reprieve with their kids, perhaps their parents, and other friends and family members. With over 47 percent of travelers interested in staying in a vacation home rental, it has become a popular alternative to staying at a hotel. And while websites like Craigslist or Backpage.com can offer fantastic bargains -- they've also made the headlines for scams in recent years.

“

efforts to plan an enjoyable family vacation result in a scam -and their hard-earned vacation dollars go down the drain. I don't think websites are doing enough to prevent this from happening, and travelers need to be cautious of the properties they're looking at. If the property seems "too good to be true" -- make sure to do some extra research before sending any money.

In addition to using trustw o r t h y websites for booking your rentals, which is perhaps the best way to avoid a scam, I also want to share some additional precautions you should take to help avoid the stress of a rental scam when planning your vacation this year. I'd suggest the following:

stress as they tried to find answers and to search for a hotel during a busy weekend. As these fraudulent listings have become more and more popular, scammers have also mastered new levels of sophistication like hacking Use Search Engines - If you're into legitimate real estate databases and worried about a property, simply check During Easter weekend last month, for even putting together a real lease agree- it out yourself. With tools like Google example, Fox 4 in Fort Myers, FL re- ment. Luckily, PayPal refunded the fam- Maps, it's easy to find photos of a propported yet another vacation home rental ily in Ft. Myers all of their money, but erty and check out the neighborhood. scam. A family traveled all the way from does Craigslist do enough to flag these You can also try to locate the registry New York to Fort Myers and thought they scams? of deeds for the county where the prophad rented the ideal place, but ended up erty is located and look up the address being victims of a scam. Their vacation The last thing any family wants to hap- to double check that the person does inquickly turned from relaxing to high- pen is to have their rental property and deed own the home they are advertising.

Travelers need to be cautious of the properties they’re looking at. If the property seems too good to be true...

“

24 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

1.

2.

Don't Send Money - Don't pay by money transfer systems like Western Union, or wire money to someone's bank account. Be sure to pay by credit card or PayPal, which enable you to dispute fraudulent charges.

3.

LIKE WHAT YOU SEE? “It is a beautiful publication!”

Kerry Walsh ~ Communications Manager at Boston Partners in Education

“This is really great, I will be sharing it with family and friends.”

Christian Gray ~ Partner at Atlas Consulting

“Congratulations! Love the title and can just taste the content!”

Ann Jarmusch ~ Nationally published art, architecture and historic preservation writer, researcher and critic

Make Some Calls - Before you officially decide to book, give the owner or property manager a call and have a simple conversation with them. Be sure to ask them for references and contact those previous renters to make sure they were pleased with the property or check out reviews linked to Facebook, so a prospective renter is capable checking out reviews from a past renter.

4.

Book Direct - To completely avoid scams, it's best to shy away from Craigslist and check out properties from vacation home rental sites like VacationHomeRentals.com, which has over 50,000 reviews written by real guests. Also, the company's Happy Rental Guarantee protects you for up to $10,000 if the home has been foreclosed or is in bankruptcy, if the owner double-books the property, or the property is misrepresented.

5.

Suspicious Behavior - Take notice of bad grammar in emails, foreign phone numbers, or if the owner/property manager is not responding to emails.

These can all be warning signs Tom Gilmore is the founder and CEO of VacationHomeRentals.com. (WD&T has no affilition with WDT)

PRINT EDITIONS AVAILABLE! Download it today visit us at www.winedineandtravel.com Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 25

The Churchill Museum & War Rooms A Powerful Exhibit of Winston Churchill’s Life and Leadership

By Sharon Whitley Larsen

26 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

The only thing missing is the stuffy cigar and cigarette smoke and the occasional putrid smells from the primitive toilet facilities in these cramped quarters. It’s hard to imagine that Churchill and his staff—and, at times, his family—worked, lived, ate, and slept here. In fact, Churchill had relocated from the Prime Minister’s nearby official home at 10 Downing Street

"He could be charming and generous,” one secretary recalled, “but also exasperating, rude, and bad tempered.” Yet he inspired devotion among his staff.

One displayed sign sums up the work routine: “There is to be no whistling or unnecessary noise in this passage.”

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 27

photo courtesy OF Heather Cowper

W

hen friends ask us where they should go in Lon- to the safer headquarters here dubbed “Number 10 Annexe.” don—after visiting the usual touristy sites such as Known as a tough task master, he often endured 18-hour days, keepWestminster Abbey, Tower of London, Changing ing his exhausted staff working late hours. Employing no speech of the Guard at Buckingham Palace, and surveying writers, Churchill dictated his own, which inspired not only his fellow the city atop The London Eye—my husband Carl British citizens but worldwide allies. He delivered four impassioned and I have just the answer. We frequently visit this popular, historic wartime speeches from these Cabinet War Rooms. city and always recommend the Churchill Museum and War Rooms, which have been open to the public nearly 30 years.

Elizabeth Nel, one of his secretaries, remembered not completing a dictation until 4:30 one morning.

It was here, in these secret underground rooms not far from Buckingham Palace, where Prime Minister Winston Churchill, a former army Her boss, she recalls on an audiotape, would pace the room while dicreporter hailing from a distinguished family, safely and successfully tating, always with a cigar in his mouth--and always requested two conducted World War II operations. And much of the rooms are eerily carbon copies. “You must be prepared to go fast and for heavens sake left—or at least reconstructed--just as they were during those dark don’t make any errors,” she remembered of those stressful days. Not days from 1939-1945. The same desks, wall clocks, telephones, chairs, seeing much light of day, she and other secretaries were known to use typewriters, gas masks, cots, maps. sun lamps to avoid vitamin D deficiency.

»

I

t was in 1938, with the ominous war Royal Navy, 24 hours a day. Each morning at clouds approaching, that a central 8:00 a daily summary was prepared for King emergency working area was select- George VI, Prime Minister Churchill, and ed for the War Cabinet and Chiefs the Chiefs of Staff. In 1941 the Cabinet War of Staff—an emergency refuge safe from Rooms were expanded to include bedrooms surprise bomb attacks. Basement storage rooms under the Office of Works and the Board of Trade were chosen for their ideal, central location and because of the fortified structure. With a staff of civil servants, military personnel, and government ministers, it opened on August 27, 1939—just one week before the outbreak of World War II. As Churchill stood in the Cabinet Room, he proclaimed, “This is the room from which I will lead the war.” And that he successfully did.

Some 115 war cabinet meetings were conducted here over the next six years, with Churchill seated in the larger chair in the center of the table, a massive world map on the wall behind him.

The Map Room, where the war was plotted, was staffed by various officers, including one each from the Royal Air Force, Army, and

28 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

phone Room—via a complicated system where Churchill conducted strategic phone calls with President Franklin Roosevelt— had been left intact. In 1948 the government formally preserved the rooms, with guided tours beginning in 1984.

"It’s hard to imagine an entire country managing a war from such a relatively small space, yet that space is filled with so much history,” observed Michael Canepa of San Diego, Calif., when he toured the rooms during his first trip to London.

In 2005 Queen Elizabeth II opened the adjoining Churchill Museum, which encompasses a high-tech, multimedia display of lights, sounds, photos, news clips, and black and white news reels—some 1100 documents, 1150 images, and ten films--sharing important moments of his life, his distinctive voice blaring for the staff—and a bedroom, kitchen, and in some of his famous speeches. It’s here in dining room for the Churchills. The lights the museum that visitors can see the books were finally turned off on August 16, 1945, and books, documents, and furniture were Churchill wrote, the artwork he painted, and placed in storage. The Transatlantic Tele- other personal items, such as his hairbrush,

museum photos courtesy Martin Roznowski LLC

Opposite page: Entrance to the Churchill museum.

Opposite lower: Churchill’s bedroom in the war room complex.

He seldom slept here except for freqent naps.

Left: One of the many interactive exhibits .

wooden breakfast tray, silk bow tie—even recordings, reminisces from his friends and his baby rattle and childhood toy soldiers. staff—and even from Churchill himself, with There are his school poetry, notebooks and his writings and radio broadcasts. letters, including one begging his rather disOne black and white photo on display is of tant parents to come visit him more often his beloved nanny, Elizabeth Everest, who at the boarding school where he was sent at died when he was 20. There’s even a June 27, age 7, and was unhappy and lonely. There’s 1940, letter from his wife of 56 years, Clemeven an entry dated May 5, 1891, from the entine: “My Darling—I hope you will forgive Harrow School punishment book that the me if I tell you something that I feel you need future prime minister, then 16, received to know”—then she sweetly admonishes seven cane strokes for “breaking into premhim about the “deterioration” in the manises and doing damage.” ner he treats his colleagues. The couple ex“I was what grown-up people in their offhand changed hundreds of letters, of which some 1700 survive. There are also letters from way called a ‘troublesome boy,’” he later said.

King George VI on Buckingham Palace letIt’s ironic that the creative, gifted, yet lonely terhead, including one dated May 31, 1944, youngster who received poor report cards, urging Churchill to reconsider his plan of got into trouble now and then, and had a having both of them participate in the Dstammer—trouble saying his “s’s,” which was Day landing: “I don’t think I need emphasize a challenge later for his secretaries taking dic- what it would mean to me personally and to tation—became known as a world leader for the whole Allied cause, if at this juncture a his electrifying speeches: “I have nothing to chance bomb, torpedo, or even a mini should offer but blood, toil, tears and sweat,” he pro- remove you from the scene. . . .” claimed in his first speech as Prime Minister The popular Prime Minister, who loved Haon May 13, 1940. vana cigars, smoked about eight each day, Special moments of his life are displayed here, having the first after breakfast. (He was said allowing visitors to learn even more details to re-light and never inhale.) He also enjoyed from family photo albums, intimate letters,

fine wines--and French Pol Roger champagne with lunch. No matter how busy he was, he took a daily nap and two daily baths.

Not only was he a popular leader in wartime, known for his energy, ambition, and intelligence, but he was awarded the Nobel Prize in 1953 and numerous other honors, including honorary U.S. citizenship (his mother was American-born).

It was an eerie irony that Churchill predicted that he would die on the anniversary of his father’s death—and he did, on January 24, 1965, aged 90. In one area of the museum is a BBC clip of his state funeral, the British royal family and other world leaders in attendance, held at St. Paul’s Cathedral on January 30, 1965. He was the first commoner to be honored with a state funeral since 1898, and his was the first commoner funeral attended by a reigning monarch.

If You Go The Churchill Museum and War Rooms For information on visiting hours, lectures, the gift shop, restaurant, and special exhibits: cwr.iwm.org.uk/ -- www.visitbritain.com -- www.visitengland.com Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 29

ww

Westminster’s ROYAL WEDDINGS The History of Fairy Tale Nuptials in Westminster Abbey

By Sharon Whitley Larsen

M

any of us vividly recall the excitement of Prince William and Kate Middleton's lavish wedding in April 2011.

Who doesn't enjoy watching the magical ceremony of a royal wedding? Especially in famed, historic Westminster Abbey, where many of Britain’s monarchs have been married, crowned, and buried. Always tops on a London tourist list, over one million visit it annually. It’s open for tours, church services, Evensongs, and organ concerts.

But it’s actually been the scene of relatively few royal weddings.

30 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

The 2011 marriage of William and Catherine, now the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge, was only the 16th royal wedding to take place in the Abbey, which was founded in 960. Formally titled the Collegiate Church of St. Peter in Westminster, Benedictine monks were established here in the mid-10th century.

Edward the Confessor dedicated the Abbey to St. Peter, and its consecration was held on Dec. 28, 1065. William the Conqueror was crowned King William I in the Abbey on Christmas Day 1066—the first of 38 royal coronations. Queen Elizabeth II’s was the first coronation televised, on June 2, 1953.

This painting of Prince William and Catherine Middleton’s wedding is part of an exhibition by Kent artist Peter Kuhfeld. He was commissioned by the Prince of Wales to paint the royal wedding and sat up in the eaves of Westminster Abbey to catch the moments with a sketch book and pencil.

Since the coronation of Edward II in 1308, monarchs have been crowned on St. Edward’s Chair—known as the Coronation Chair. The Abbey's present Gothic-style architecture is attributed to King Henry III, who had much of it rebuilt during the mid-13th century.

the past century. (Prior to that the ceremonies generally were held privately in palace or castle chapels.) Queen Victoria’s granddaughter, Princess Patricia of Connaught, married in the Abbey in 1919—the first royal wedding to be held here in over 500 years!

The first royal wedding in Westminster Abbey was held on Four years later, in 1923, Prince William’s great-grandmother, Nov. 11, 1100, when William the Conqueror’s fourth son, Queen Elizabeth the Queen Mother (then Lady Bowes-Lyon) later King Henry I, married Princess Matilda of Scotland--for started the tradition of royal brides leaving their bridal boulove, they say! Despite the Abbey’s rich history, the major- quets atop the engraved black Belgian marble of The Grave ity of the royal weddings have taken place here just during of the Unknown Warrior. In memory of her brother, killed Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 31

photos 32courtesy WineofDine Visit & Britain Travel

Winter 2014

pphoto courtesy WIKI commons

Left: The main entrance of Westminster Abbey on a clear day. Right: The Abbey with Big Ben in the foreground.

pphoto by Tebbits

in World War I, she spontaneously placed her bouquet there following her wedding ceremony to Prince Albert (later King George VI—of “The King’s Speech” fame).

12 adults and some 30 charming young boys who are in residence here, attending the Westminster Abbey Choir School. For those able to attend a church service or organ concert, it’s well worth it—and free.

Since then royal weddings have included televised broadcasts of Princess Elizabeth’s (now the queen) to Lt. Philip Mount- I often wonder, what is it about the British monarchy—espebatten (later Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh) in 1947; Prin- cially the royal weddings--that causes Americans to go nuts with cess Margaret’s to Antony Armstrong-Jones (later Earl of excitement? Our history lessons—rather brief in comparisonSnowdon) in 1960; Princess Anne’s to Capt. Mark Phillips in -remind us that just over 200 years ago we fought England so we wouldn’t have to be ruled by monarchy; we chose to elect 1973, and Prince Andrew’s to Sarah Ferguson in 1986. our presidents instead.

I never tire of touring Westminster Abbey—seeing the gorgeous stained glass windows, magnificent marble statues and Nevertheless, there’s still a certain mystique and intrigue that we art, or the Waterford crystal chandeliers, which were a gift have with the British royal family—and their 1,000-year history. from the Guinness family for the Abbey's 900th anniversary I have faithfully followed the British monarchy since third grade, in 1965. Over 3,000 people are buried here, and there are when, following a fairy tale bedtime story, I had asked my mom over 600 tombs and marble monuments—including burial if there were any real kings or queens or princesses living in the vaults of Edward the Confessor, Queen Elizabeth I and Mary, world today.

Queen of Scots. King George II was the last of 17 monarchs to be buried here—in 1760. Due to lack of space in the Abbey, She told me about Queen Elizabeth II, who had a daughter named Princess Anne, about my age. royals now are buried at Windsor.

So I excitedly wrote the princess a letter, telling her how much I Several times I’ve attended church services and organ concerts thought we had in common—that I, too, was a Girl Scout and also in the Abbey, sometimes sitting in the Nave—or in the Poets’ had a baby brother!

Corner in the South Transept, gazing at the famous names of those buried here, including Geoffrey Chaucer, Charles Dick- Not long after I had a reply on Windsor Castle letterhead from ens, Rudyard Kipling. Once during a Sunday service I luckily sat the queen’s lady-in-waiting, stating that she was writing “at the close to the famed Choir of Westminster Abbey, comprised of Queen’s command” to thank me for writing to her daughter.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 33

34 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014 Photo courtesy of Westminster Abbey

Left: The Tomb of the Unknown Warrior lined with red flowers. Right: A painting of Edward VII being married to Alexandra of Denmark in Westminster Abbey in 1863

»

W

ing sometimes doesn’t work, but a bit of fairy tale and fantasy left from they certainly know how to throw a our childhood. We like to believe in the royal wedding! prince and princess, and the hope that they live happily ever after.

I stood in front of Westminster Abbey as the 10 bells began gloriously And Britain’s royal family gives us some and powerfully ringing from the of that. bell tower. The Westminster Abbey Company of Ringers, an amazing IF YOU GO volunteer group, did the ringing of the full peal by hand, which contin- For information on worship times, concerts, tourued over three hours. Later I stood ing (self-guided with audiotapes for about $25, among the masses in front of Buck- or guided), the Choir School—even purchasing ingham Palace for the balcony scene souvenirs—please visit: and fly-over. www.westminster-abbey.org I was struck by the festive crowd The official website of the British Monarchy: of all ages, from all over the world.

Some creative ones wore tiaras, roy- www.royal.gov.uk/Home.aspx I was lucky to make a pilgrimage to al family masks, wedding dresses, be in London on the actual day of VisitBritain: www.visitbritain.com Union Jack face paint. Young chilWilliam and Kate’s wedding—joindren, teens, parents, grandparents— VisitEngland: www.visitengland.com ing the million spectators in the city various cultures and languages—all centre. I was struck by the minute VisitWales: www.visitwales.com celebrating the joyous event. precision of the timetable to get the Rubens at the Palace Hotel (The “royal” rooms overWith all the problems there are in royal family—including the bride look The Royal Mews at Buckingham Palace): www. and groom--to the church on time. the world, all the sad things that go rubenshotel.com Hand it to the Brits—their plumb- on so often, we all still like to have

ell, that did it! That same year, when Princess Margaret, the queen’s younger sister, married at Westminster Abbey, I watched the ceremony on a small black-andwhite TV. I was mesmerized by the pageantry and the beautiful bride— just as I was when William and Kate's royal wedding was held some 50 years later. Throughout the years I’ve watched the other televised royal weddings in Westminster Abbey—and, of course, stayed up all night to watch Charles and Diana’s lavish 1981 wedding in London’s St. Paul’s Cathedral.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 35

WALKING THE HALLS OF

Downton Abbey S

urely, something was wrong. Carson the butler wasn’t there to greet me. Maybe it was because I had arrived at the castle the cheap way — on foot from a nearby country inn, not by Rolls-Royce or carriage.

By Carl H. Larsen

36 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

»

»

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 37 Photos courtesy of ITV

F

rom the empty gravel forecourt, where normally a rank of servants greets distinguished guests, I was left to open the massive wooden door myself. Stepping inside, past the two winged dragons at my feet, I immediately entered a privileged domain lived in by few but known to millions. I was in the real "Downton Abbey."

For a minute of two, I was the actor Hugh Bonneville playing Lord Grantham, gazing toward the overpowering Gothic Revival great hall and saloon, with its 50-foot-high vaulted ceiling and adjacent broad oak staircase. Beyond were the magnificent dining room with its nearly life-size painting by Anthony Van Dyck of a mounted Charles I and the massive, clublike library containing volumes hundreds of years old.

that includes Bonneville, Dame Maggie Smith and Elizabeth McGovern, "Downton Abbey's" one constant is the spectacular estate and home in which the drama is filmed. For American au"Downton Abbey" is television's wildly diences, the fourth season of the sepopular period drama, following the ries debuted in January 2014 on PBS. fictional Crawley family and their servants from the Titanic disaster The TV drama exists beyond the through World War I and into the un- imagination of screenwriter Julian certain 1920s. With an ensemble cast Fellowes as Highclere Castle, a 5,000-

38 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

acre working estate a little over an hour from London. If the architecture of the manor house looks familiar, it's because Highclere was redesigned and enlarged in 1842 by Sir Charles Barry, the architect of Britain's Houses of Parliament.

The program, aired around the world, has made Highclere Castle England's best-known country home, attracting

Photos courtesy of Highclere Castle

Photos courtesy of ITV

60,000 visitors annually, many of whom come This house has its own "bones": a fascinating on bus tours. The house and its fabulous gar- history that includes a mummy's curse, love dens, refined by the great British landscape triangles, pressing financial burdens and pearchitect Lancelot "Capability" Brown, are riods when successive lords and ladies conopen on a seasonal basis. verted their home into a military hospital and a wartime refuge for young children.

Visitors are drawn here by the TV series, but the unexpected story they find at Highclere Dating to the late 1600s, Highclere is the is even more compelling than the roman- ancestral home of the Carnarvon family. The tic, political and financial exploits of the fic- present Earl of Carnarvon and his second wife, tional Crawleys and their cadre of servants. the Countess Carnarvon, live in the castle as

Above: Scenes of Downton Abbey in past seasons. Opposite top: Highclere Castle known to millions of TV viewers as Downton Abbey.

Top right: Highclere gardens, refined by the great British landscape architect Lancelot“Capability�Brown.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 39

Photos courtesy of Highclere Castle

well as a nearby residence. Unlike lescent hospital for British officers with other open-to-the-public es- during World War I. Almina's gentates where the occupants have erous dowry, and later inheritance long since departed, visitors to from her father, banking tycoon Highclere are treated to constant Alfred de Rothschild, allowed her reminders that this is a working husband, the fifth earl, to pursue home. On a recent tour, the master his interest in Egyptian archeology. bedroom revealed a bottle of Sinex That's where the name Carnarvon at bedside and reading material strikes home. It was the fifth earl, that included books by Ian Rankin along with Howard Carter, who in and John Grisham.

1922 opened the treasure-filled "I don't want to present a museum," tomb of Egyptian boy-Pharoah said the present countess, Fiona, Tutankhamun, which had been as we sipped tea at the outdoor sealed for centuries. cafe set up for visitors. "I want "Can you see anything?" Lord Carpeople to know that we reside here. narvon is said to have asked as It's a living history."

Carter peered through an openThese days, the countess has been ing in the tomb. "Yes, wonderful consumed with making sure TV things!" came the reply. crews don't light candles under the Carnarvon's instant celebrity staVan Dyck painting and that their tus was to be short-lived, however. electrical cables don't topple marTop: The Saloon is physically and socially the heart of the house.

Shortly after the discovery he died ble statues.

Above: Current owners of the castle -- Geordie, the eighth Earl of in Cairo of blood poisoning from Carnarvon and Lady Fiona, Countess of Carnarvon -- relax with their Parallel to the plot that has un- an infected mosquito bite. His son, lab. Opposite page: Egyptian boy-Pharoah Tutankhamun. Opposite folded on TV, the countess recently "Porchey," who would become the left: The great oak staircase in the saloon. Opposite right: Elements published a book on an earlier next earl, related in his memoirs, of Highclere Castle architecture can be seen in Britain’s House of Countess Carnarvon, Lady Almina, "No Regrets," what happened next.

Parliament because they had the same architect Sir Charles Barry. who turned the estate into a conva40 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

At the time of Carnarvon's death, all of Cairo was thrown into darkness by a mysterious blackout. And far away at Highclere the lord's favorite dog, a fox terrier named Susie, started howling and dropped over dead at the same time his master died.

This has led to stories that the discovery of the Tut relics brings a "mummy's curse" to those who deal with them.

Before I left, there was one nagging question I had to ask as we walked past the downstairs bell board, which was used to summon servants to the upper rooms.

I had seen the footmen performing an unusual practice on "Downton Abbey."

Today the basement of Highclere Castle is devoted to an exhibition on the fifth Lord Carnarvon's Egyptian expeditions.

As the present countess is first to admit, maintaining an estate such as Highclere is an expensive proposition. That is why the house has been thrown open for filming, weddings and catered events, while the estate also hosts paying hunting parties.

So it's possible for those with the money to enjoy a five-course meal in the famous dining room, attired in formal wear, of course, but minus the quick wit of Maggie Smith.

Long gone are the 24 household servants "Did they really iron the daily newspapers?" listed in a 1924 record book. Today there I asked. are far fewer, but the job of butler remains.

"Oh, yes, it was quite common," the countIt's a job not so far removed from the role ess replied. played by "Downton's" Carson. But the overall divisions of labor are gone.

As I left Highclere I walked past grazing sheep and under stately Cedars of Leba"We're all good at multitasking," the countnon planted hundreds of years ago. One ess told me.

last look at the grandeur of the castle, and the words of "Downton's" Lord Grantham rushed into my mind.

"You see a million bricks that may crumble, a thousand gutters and pipes that may block and leak, and stone that will crack in the frost. ... I see my life's work."

MAKING THE TRIP Highclere Castle is open to the public during summer and on selected holidays, but the popularity of "Downton Abbey" has made getting tickets difficult. Those wanting to visit should check with private coach-tour operators, who offer day trips from London. For more information, see www.highclerecastle.co.uk By train, a visit to Highclere Castle is an easily done day trip from London's Paddington Station. Getting off at Newbury, visitors take an eight-mile taxicab ride to the estate. Be sure to arrange a pickup time for the return to the station with your driver. For information on schedules and rail passes, see www.britrail.com.

Newbury, the closest large town to the estate, offers several lodging possibilities: Carnarvon Arms hotel (a country inn close to the estate): www.thecarnarvonarmshotel.com Hilton Newbury Centre (UK): www.hilton.com Travelodge Newbury Tot Hill Hotel: www.travelodge.co.uk For general information: www.visitbritain.com and www. visitingengland.com

Photos courtesy WIKI commons

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 41

Classy ladies of the Abbey

Photos courtesy of ITV

By Carl H. Larsen

T

hey’re an upstairs-downstairs pair who easily cast aside their presumed class differences while on the road pitching “Downton Abbey,” the British tele-drama that has made them international stars.

Laura Carmichael, cast as the show’s snarky and ambitious Lady Edith Crawley, and Lesley Nicol, the tyrannical yet loveable Mrs. Patmore, ruler of Downton Abbey’s kitchen, appear to be best of friends in off-camera life.

That was demonstrated by the hug they gave each other at the end of an interview in a San Diego hotel suite before making an appearance at a public-television fund-raiser. In person, you’d recognize Nicol in an instant as Mrs. Patmore, with her red hair and sharp, direct voice that is quick with a story or laugh. In fairness, Nicol is bulked up for the role by costumers, and made to look chiseled 42 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

by time and hard work. Carmichael still “No one is above her in the kitchen,” said can leave Edith behind after shooting. Nicol of her character. But there is a bit of Tall and demure, her long hair gives no tension between Mrs. Patmore and Mrs. hint of the short, curled styles required Hughes, the housekeeper, who is keeper of her role. You probably wouldn’t rec- of the keys of the household stores. Beognize her on the street – but all that is tween soufflés, Mrs. Patmore struggles to keep various youthful footmen and changing for the talented actress. kitchen maids focused on their work and With so many episodes of “Downton Ab- not on their love lives. bey” (now in Season 4) under their belts, the difference between real life and man- But to many of the women on “Downor-house decorum must be hard for the ton,” enduring romance has been an elusive dream. Nicol said she cajoled Downtwo and others in the cast to sort out. ton creator and writer Julian Fellowes Nicol for years has been well known as to give her a love interest. His response: a character actor to TV viewers in Brit- “Do you want to leave the cast?” Instead, ain, and to West End theater-goers as Mrs. Patmore was wooed by a philanderRosie in the London stage production of ing merchant in Season 3. He was plainly smitten by her cooking skills. That’s an “Mama Mia.” asset that in real life, Nicol confesses she In “Downton Abbey,” she is a key mem- does not possess. ber of the ensemble cast, even though the only part of upper crust manor- Carmichael said that of all the three house life she encounters is when a loaf Crawley sisters portrayed in the series of bread rises in her oven. (one of whom, Lady Sybil, died suddenly), she is the most conventional – the one

who ironically could be called the most middle class today. Her older sister, Lady Mary, grieving for her late husband Matthew, has created an opening for Edith to push into the forefront of the series.

In Season 4, Lady Edith is leading the charge into the world of the Moderne, breaking shibboleths about what should be a gentrified woman’s place in the world. Indeed, Time magazine says Lady Edith this season “makes a run for feminist-icon status.”

That’s a lot of heavy lifting for Carmichael, who came out of the background as the forgotten daughter of the series.

But she has proved herself up to the challenge. Pretty good for a newcomer who a few years ago was an office receptionist trying to land acting roles.

“She’s had a lot of hard knocks,” said Carmichael of Lady Edith, who is scoffed at by her father (Hugh Bonneville) and dismissed by her older sister (Lady Mary, played by Michelle Dockery). “She’s ambitious and she’s a fighter.”

How low does Edith start out?

Consider this conversation between her father (Lord Grantham) and mother (Lady Cora). Lord Grantham: "Poor old Edith. We never seem to talk about her.”

Lady Cora: "I'm afraid Edith will be the one taking care of us in our old age."

Lord Grantham: "Oh, what a ghastly prospect!"

This season, Carmichael said, Lady Edith has been allowed by Fellowes to spread her wing. She finds a job - of all things - as a newspaper columnist, and a new love interest emerges after she was left at the intrusion of new technology, such as last year visited Haiti to support a charthe altar. Carmichael said this new turn an electric mixer, into her decades-old ity hospital she helps support. of events for Edith comes from leaving kitchen routine. The next thing, she fears, the manor and dashing down to London. is that her job will be taken over by some And a slew of Downton products is now on the market, ranging from wines to There, she can wear the latest in fashion “lady from the village.” costume jewelry. while sipping cocktails at the Criterion and return home at 6 a.m. to a disapprov- The series has opened many doors for ing aunt. But is she somehow putting her both actresses. New scripts to consider, Still, said Carmichael, “It is slightly family’s centuries-old good name at peril the A list of celebrities clamoring for face alarming to see your face on a bag.” by exploring these new avenues? time and repeated pilgrimages made to awards shows are all part of the mystique.

While Carmichael, 27, pulls the plot into “We call it the Downton Effect,” said Nicol. Above: Lady Edith Crawley played by Laura Carmichael. the Roaring Twenties, her good friend, a “These doors weren’t open before.” There’s Opposite: Mrs. Patmore played by Leslie Nicol.

60ish Nicol, is risk averse, worrying about also a chance to give back. Carmichael Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 43

At the Oldest University in the English-Speaking World

THE OXFORD EXPERIENCE

I

By Nancy Carol Carter

t was a cold and uncommonly quiet night in Oxford as I hurried along High Street, looking for the landmark Carfax Tower where I would turn left onto St. Aldates Street. My destination was Tom Tower and I had to be there before 9:05.

This was back in the summer of 2000. I was in England for the first time in many years, 44 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

directing a study-abroad program based in I had just that day learned about one of Oxford. I spent the entire six weeks won- those quirky British traditions that bedering why I had not been visiting more muse most visitors, but entrance the true regularly. I enjoyed everything about Eng- Anglophile. In a practice dating to the land: the historical sites, manicured gar- early history of Oxford, Great Tom, the dens, churches and green countryside. The bell hanging in the entrance tower of BBC was my local radio station and Oxford Christ Church college, tolls 101 times a cultural cafeteria. But now I was down to each night at five minutes after nine my last hours in town and on a mission. o’clock. Once a signal of curfew, the

number represents the original 100 scholars at the college’s 1525 founding, plus one added in 1684.

This I had to hear.

Arriving in time for the first toll of the bell, I soon drifted from the automatic count of every clang, thinking instead about the secret life behind the heavy oak doors at the base of Christopher Wren’s gothic revival bell tower. How many hundreds of students had passed through that gate? I was awed by so many years of history and tradition and felt a touch of envy—did those generations of young Christ Church scholars have sufficient appreciation of their privilege and good fortune? Everything about an Oxford education seemed mystically distant and wonderful that night as I stood in the cool air and felt the vibrato of the 101st peal of Great Tom.

An Oxford Experience for All I remembered my night outside the doors of Tom Tower when I learned about “The Oxford Experience.” This summer school program invites the world to spend one to six weeks in residence at Christ Church, studying with a tutor, living in college rooms and eating three meals a day under the vaulted ceiling of the great hall (think Harry Potter and Hogwarts).

There are week-long courses for every interest. In the summer of 2013, I passed up “The Black Death” to enroll in a landscape history course taught by a well-known scholar and romantically entitled “Paradise in an English Garden.” Course content and instruction were first-rate.

Photos courtesy WIKI commons

Classes are small and informal and each includes a Thursday field trip. Suggested readings are sent out in advance, but no one spends their week at Christ Church hitting the books. Neither does the experience include a final examination. During the week, tours of the college and the town of Oxford are offered, along with various evening events.

One of the biggest surprises for me was the quality and quantity of food served in the college hall.

Every meal offered a variety of choices and the fruit and vegetables were wonderfully fresh. Latin grace is spoken before dinner and once during the week, there is an invitation to sit at the high table with college officials and a selection of tutors.

With a communal morning coffee break and three Left: The Great Hall at Christ Church was used as a model for the dining Hall in Harry meals a day in the college hall, it is easy to meet Potter movies. Top: Christ Church steeple. Bottom: An engraving of Christ Church, Oxother students. There are many Americans, but also ford, 1742.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 45

British locals and people from all over the world. While middle aged and older people predominate, younger enrollees are part of the mix.

Students move into the college on Sunday and attend classes Monday through Friday. Unless enrolled for a subsequent week’s course, college rooms must be vacated on Saturday. In a 500-year old college, room sizes and furniture vary greatly. As an early enrollee, my own room was choice: very large and comfortable, with a bed, dresser, huge desk, two lounge chairs and a fireplace. A limited number of ensuite rooms with a private bath are available. They cost more and sell out quickly. Other rooms have a wash basin, but shared toilets and showers. Expect 46 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

to climb many stairways and handle your students in the Oxford Experience have own luggage. The college does not try to the privilege of roaming inside Christ emulate a hotel and its medieval build- Church’s high walls and strolling in the private Masters’ Garden (and playing ings do not have ramps or elevators. croquet there during the week).

Christ Church is known as one of Oxford University’s most distinguished and beautiful colleges. It has produced 13 Oxford Experience 2014 British prime ministers. Lewis Carroll wrote his Alice tales while in residence as Six one-week sessions of the Oxford Exa mathematics don. The College chapel perience will run from July 6 to August is also Oxford’s Cathedral, offering ser- 16, 2014. All details are available at the vices and hosting music performances. website, www.oxfordexperience.info.

Unlike campuses in the United States, Click “Programme” on the left-hand all the Oxford colleges are closed to the menu to see dates and course offerpublic except for limited areas on certain ings. Classes, meals and adjunct actividays. The exterior areas at Christ Church ties make for a jam-packed week. If you are beautifully landscaped and its large want to explore the Oxford area in more meadow is publically accessible. Only depth, build in some extra days at other

Photo Nancy Carol Carter

accommodations. Be prepared for crowds outside the college walls. Oxford is full of international students in the summer.

Going to school is not everyone’s idea of a vacation, but at the Oxford Experience, it is possible to enter a completely new environment and spend a relaxed but stimulating week with the vikings, Jane Austen, art history, British scientists, political thought, architecture, creative writing, or spies. Inspector Morse will make an appearance in the Oxford Murder course and the Black Death is back.

Left: Gardens of Christ Church. Top: Christ Church at night. Mid-right: Students in the dining hall Bottom: Oxford in the late 1800s.

Photos courtesy of Oxford University

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 47

Petersham nurserIES Café WHERE DINING IS DOWN TO EARTH & MICHELIN STARRED

Photos and Story by Ron James

I

t’s rare in our journalistic family when we venture out together to cover a story focused on both of our areas of interest – wine and food in my case and gardening for Mary. Granted, gardening and food and wine are very much related; but how often do you visit a wonderful nursery that also happens to sport a Michelin star?

Our journey to Petersham Nurseries Café would be nearly as rewarding as the destination. And the number of cal48 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

ories burned to get there boded well for a good appetite and little worry about what or how much we’d consume.

We caught a train at London Waterloo for a scenic trip southwest 15 miles though the suburbs to Richmond upon Thames - a place the locals tag as London’s most attractive borough. It is indeed attractive, and in places downright bucolic. No wonder it’s been a magnate for royalty and the rich and famous for centuries. We weren’t either, but we did have a credit card – and as it turned out, that was a good thing.

Richmond sparkled under blue skies when we arrived. The River Thames runs through Richmond, linking it with Kew Gardens and Hampton Court Palace and central London 21 miles up river. The town center was bustling and prosperous looking as customers scurried in and out of shops and restaurants. The architecture was a mixed bag, but in aggregate seemed to work together.

Leaving the train station, it took us a bit to get our bearings. After wandering down several city blocks and making a few wrong turns, we spied what look like park-

After a mile or so, we passed through a gate to enter an immense field studded with trees and cows. A prominent sign warned pedestrians: “If a cow chases you and your dog, it is safer to let your dog off the lead – don’t risk getting hurt by trying to protect it.” Did It was a warm, very pleasant day, perfect the cows only chase people with dogs? for enjoying the giant trees and grand Did they chase hungry journalists too? hotels and mansions lining the path. We passed a couple of stylish restaurants set next to the river and a ferry dock which Left: A vintage cart at the Petersham nursery serviced passenger boats plying the river, is used as a platform to sell plants. Right: The including to London proper. The ferry path along the Thames river heading directly would be a very pleasant option to the to Petersham Nursery and Cafe. train trip if we were to head this way again. land that seemed to signal we were leaving the town center. When we finally reached the Thames, we set off along a walkway that paralleled the meandering banks of the river.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 49

Left: The path to Petersham Nurseries runs right through a large pasture full of potentially angry cows. Right top: The rustic dining room at Petersham features dirt floors, potted ferns and great food. Bottom right: Lucy Boyd is director of culinary operations and gardening at Petersham.

50 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

As we cautiously proceeded, the path My first impression of the cafÊ was that made me think of the yellow brick road a bunch of clever kids decided to play with mad cows instead of wicked witch- restaurant in their backyard. They setes. I knew there would be no great Oz at up used tables and chairs on the bare the end of this road, but hopefully a cu- dirt, made shade canopies from bamlinary wizard would be there to perform boo mats and metal poles, decorated some magic in the kitchen for us. with ferns and bougainvillea, and hung out the open sign. Rustic – indeed, but A half-mile later, we exited another somehow it worked and in fact was very gate and finally spied our destina- cool. But could they cook? tion. It certainly looked like a garden center - an upscale Martha Stewart We were warmly greeted and seated rustic one at that, given the expen- at a table next to a large potted palm. sive luxury cars huddled together in The shabby chic chairs were actually the dusty parking area at the entrance. quite comfortable, but it was still a bit We wandered through the nursery and of novelty to look down at a dirt floor. the Petersham Teahouse, which serves We turned our attention to the short a seasonally and Italian-inspired sweet lunch menu created by head chef Cat lunch menu of cakes and other baked Ashton and supervised by culinary digoods, before we spied our destination. rector Lucy Boyd who is the head gardener and former chef. Boyd has a new

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 51

Left top: Veal chop with beans and squash.

Left bottom: Rabbit with wilted spinach and zucchini Right top: Lemon tart with strawberries. Right bottom: Cat Ashton and her crew preparing memorable meals.

52 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

the table, and the feta was first rate.

For our main course we ordered rabbit and a veal chop, both beautifully presented and perfectly prepared. Both were wonderfully flavorful with a perfectly caramelized golden sear on the outside and moist and tender inside – not an easy task with either dish.

The rabbit was served in a bowl with a pool of very tasty broth with wilted spinach leaves and zucchini spears.

The chop was topped with white beans, spinach and cubes of orange squash.

Both included a lovely piece of garlic toast drenched in olive oil. Every bite was amazing; we were sad to scrape the last morsels out of our dishes with the delicious bread.

But our sadness turned to delight as our server slipped a dessert plate between us. It was a plate full of sweet sunshine - a perfect slice of lemon tart crowned with sweet sliced strawberries and a generous dollop of crème fraîche. The plate was soon clean and crumb-less.

If you look at Trip Advisor, there’s a lot of grumbling about the restaurant’s prices, especially from locals. Our tab including the bottle of wine came to a hefty $189.00 with tip and tax. Not our everyday lunch tab, but not our everyday lunch.

Full and extremely satisfied, we backed our chairs away from the table, engraving trails in the dirt floor, and began our leisurely trip back, hoping not to run into an ornery cow along the way. cookbook “Kitchen Memories” and is the daughter of Rose Gray, who cofounded the phenomenally successful River Cafe in London.

herbs and heritage vegetable varieties were harvested on site from the Peter- IF YOU GO sham House Walled Kitchen Garden.

Petersham Nurseries Café

Thirsty after our morning exercise, we It is amazing that the restaurant has ordered a refreshing Corbieres rose maintained its quality and Michelin star from the Languedoc-Roussillon region while going through a number of execu- of southern France, an area known for tive chefs including noted Australian its roses and red wines. At $36 it was a chefs Skye Gyngell and Greg Malouf in good value. recent years.

To start, we shared a tomato and feta The restaurant is known for its season- salad with fresh herbs and olive oil. It ally inspired dishes created using locally was a great choice; the bright red tomasourced ingredients from small farmers toes tasted as if they had been plucked and artisan producers. Edible flowers, off the vine by the server on the way to

Church Lane, Off Petersham Lane, Richmond, Surrey The restaurant is open for lunch: Tuesday - Sunday 12.00pm - 3.00pm Nursery closes at 5.00pm www. petershamnurseries.com T: 020 8940 5230

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 53

Steam Dreams THEY’RE A REALITY FOR RAILWAY FANS IN WALES

By Carl H. Larsen

Photos courtesy Ffestiniog Railways

P

rogress has taken a few steps back to yesteryear ping at a track-side pub or taking a short hike before climbing in Porthmadog, the Welsh town that has become aboard again. one of the world’s top steam-railway centers. Each Both railways operate on 2-foot-wide narrow-gauge tracks. year about 300,000 steam-locomotive enthusiThe narrow cars and engines pull up cheek to jowl at Porthasts and day-trippers from around the globe make their way madog’s Harbour Station, departure point for the two lines. to this town of 4,000 on the Welsh coast. They come to travel The Welsh Highland route was completed with much fanfare on the oldest operating railway in the world — the 15-milein the spring of 2011. Founded in 1832, the Ffestiniog Railway long Ffestiniog Railway — or its newly opened companion, originally carried slate from the mountains near the tonguethe 25-mile-long Welsh Highland Railway. twisting town of Blaenau Ffestiniog to the Porthmadog docks.

Visitors can ride behind the most powerful narrow-gauge In Britain, such lines are called heritage railways — abansteam locomotives in the world, visit an iconic castle dating doned routes that have been brought back to life as tourist to the 13th century, enjoy the wild and spectacular scenery railroads. But there’s a difference here. Unlike many of these of north Wales, or “train hop” from station to station, stop-

54 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Opposite top: The Ffestiniog Railway runs through the Welsh countryside. Above: Merddin Emrys, built in the Ffestiniog’s own workshops in 1879 and Prince, the world’s oldest working narrow gauge steam loco, built in 1863. Below: Station masters get passengers on the right track. Right: Vintage Ffestiniog Railroad poster.

isolated rural railways, both the Ffestiniog and Welsh Highland offer connections to Britain’s mainline rail network at Porthmadog and Blaenau Ffestiniog, allowing easy access for travelers without cars.

Closed to passenger trains in 1936, the Welsh Highland Railway cost $45.3 million to rebuild with financing coming from the Welsh government, lottery proceeds and private fundraising efforts. It was a job well done, bringing modern improvements to a right-of-way that had languished for many years.

Today, the trains carry passengers on a coastto-coast run from Porthmadog to the imposing walls of Caernarfon Castle, a World Heritage Site that was the setting for Prince

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 55

THE MEN WHO RUN THE TRAINS 56 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Photos courtesy Ffestiniog Railways

Charles’ investiture on July 1, 1969, as the Prince of Wales.

For passengers making the approximately $52 round-trip from Porthmadog, there’s enough time to tour the Normanstyle castle, which dates to 1283, and the nearby town before heading back. Some outings can be done in reverse, starting at Caernarfon and heading south.

Full of switchbacks and horseshoe curves, the route puts the 60-ton steam engines through their paces as they make their way from sea level to the line’s highest point at 650 feet. I saw this first-hand from the footplate of Engine 138, a 62-ton NG/G16 Beyer Garratt, in technical terms, which formerly worked for South African Railways.

Inside, both the engineer and fireman were kept busy minding a confusing array of dials, valves and a throttle as well as a whistle cord. A tiny window on each side looks out over the engine’s boiler, giving an obstructed view that required crew members to alert the other as to what they were seeing down the line.

“Clear,” shouted the fireman as he surveyed an approaching grade-level crossing. The same dialogue came with every trackside signal, as each shouted to the other above the throbbing steam engine that the way ahead was clear. Top speed is 25 mph.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 57

At one station, the thirsty engine was serviced with a long fill-up of water from an overhead pipe. Engine 138 had been converted to an oil-burner, saving the fireman the strain of shoveling a ton and a half of coal into the firebox during the run. However, coal has returned to power some of these steam mammoths as oil prices soar.

The tracks run through the heart of Britain’s Snowdonia National Park. One of the stops, Snowdon Ranger Halt, is next to a youth hostel and a path leading to the summit of 3,560-foot Mount Snowdon, the highest peak in Wales and England. (A separate narrow-gauge line, the Snowdon Mountain Railway, runs to the summit from the town of Llanberis, Wales.)

Along the way, the trains run across the tidal flatlands next to the River Glaslyn and then along the rapids of the river through the Aberglaslyn Pass.

There are tunnels and villages springing out of nowhere, the most pretty of which is Beddgelert, which offers cafes, shops and paths along the river.

“It’s the only way to go,” my wife, Sharon, said as she rode in the Glaslyn, an extra-fare observation car with stuffed armchairs and a large curved glass window at one end. Indeed, she was sitting on the very 58 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Top: Earl of Merioneth passes Pen Cob with the 14.15 Santa Train from Porthmadog in December. Bottom: Dalmatian and friend enjoy the ride. Opposite right: The original schematic drawing of a early model engine.

seat that Queen Elizabeth II had sat on when she rode the line in 2010 with Prince Philip. Aboard the train there is a buffet trolley service and a restroom.

“This railway is quite different from any other railway in the country,” said Paul Lewin, general manager of the parent Ffestiniog company. “We wanted to make it a very different experience. And with the observation car with the big glass end, the idea was that you could get as close as possible to the scenery of Snowdonia.”

As we pulled into each station, I caught a sight not often seen along Amtrak routes in the United States.

Squadrons of men and women were tending to immaculately kept platforms and shelters. Some were sweeping, others were watering flowers. Bridges, culverts, signals and platforms all appeared new. In fact, the only thing showing any hints of age were the wellmaintained engines and cars.

There’s a secret to this army of caretakers, I found.

Many are volunteers who are members of the Welsh Highland Railway Society, formed to support the railway. The two railways have 8,000 such members,

Photos courtesy Ffestiniog Railways

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 59

60 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Photos courtesy Ffestiniog Railways Roger Dimmick

Photos courtesy Ffestiniog Railways

Opposite page: Garratt locomotives climb past Glanrafon Quarry below the snow-capped summit of Snowdon. Above: A sunny day on a Welsh Highland train. Below: A train called Taliesin pulls out of Porthmadog Station.

If You Go Located in North Wales, Porthmadog is on the British mainline railway network, requiring one change of trains for travelers from London. The full journey, coursing through scenic central Wales and along the coast of the Irish Sea and past Harlech Castle, takes about six hours. The mainline rail station in Porthmadog is a 15-minute walk from the Welsh Highland Railway’s Harbour Station. Holders of BritRail passes are entitled to a discount on both the Welsh Highland and Ffestiniog railways: www.britrail. com

Photos courtesy Ffestiniog Railways Andrew Thomas

The Welsh Highland Railway and its older line, the Ffestiniog Railway, operate year-round from Porthmadog’s Harbour Station, with limited service in the winter months. In summer, it’s possible on a well-planned trip to travel on both lines in a single day. Diesel engines occasionally replace steam service, depending on maintenance needs. Check the schedule. A gift shop and Spooner’s Cafe and Bar are located in the station: www.festrail.co.uk

of whom 1,000 regularly come to work on jobs ranging from crossing guards to on-board staff. Some stay for a week or two In Porthmadog, we stayed at Yr Hen Fecws, 16 Lombard St. This highly ratin a railroad-owned bunkhouse. ed guest house in a Welsh slate building offers seven en-suite bedrooms and a small cafe-bistro. A pub is nearby. Harbour railway station is a five“I can’t get him to take out the garbage at home,” said one minute walk: www.henfecws.com woman of her husband, a long-time volunteer who was dutifully polishing a brass plate on the side of one of the engines. For information on events, travel and lodging inWales: www.visitwales.com Well, he can be forgiven. After all, he’s in the enviable position of keeping the past alive on a railway that has brought travel by steam up to date.

For information on planning a journey to the United Kingdom: www.visitbritain.com

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 61

Touring Bordeaux

by ROBERT WHITLEY

B

Photos courtesy Bourdeaux Office of Tourism

ordeaux, arguably the epicenter First, a visitor must decide whether to stay Both hotels are relatively close to the rustic La of the modern wine universe, in the city and visit the chateaux of Bor- Tupina, one of the most famous restaurants in wasn't always a hot destination deaux on day trips or take to the country- southwest France. La Tupina has no Michelin for wine tourism. Unlike the side and bunk at a cozy inn. There are advan- stars, but it is renowned for its traditional cuiNapa Valley, with its two ma- tages to staying in the city. There is nightlife, sine, typically hearty meat dishes roasted or jor roadways that run parallel for one thing, and no shortage of excellent grilled over a wood fire. The wine list at La Tupast most of the important wineries, the restaurants. pina is superb. If you only have one night for Bordeaux region is a vast area dinner in the city of Bordeaux, La surrounding the port city of BorTupina is the place to go. deaux along the Gironde, the largest estuary in Europe.

Staying in the city is a good idea when the itinerary calls for flexThe city itself is a challenge to navibility, as in going south and east of igate and until recently was fairly the city one day to visit Graves or drab and uninviting.

Saint-Emilion and north and west another day to take in Pauillac or In recent years, however, the city Margaux. of Bordeaux has experienced a renaissance of sorts, with a new Staying in the countryside has tram system that makes getting around its own set of advantages, though it cuts down The finest hotel in the city is The Grand, a breeze, and a stretch of pedestrian-only on the flexibility of your itinerary. Wine lovers smack in the center of the city with a tram streets in the city center that has become interested in the chateaux of the Medoc region stop right in front. If money is no object, a magnet for tourists drawn to the area's would do well to book a room at Chateau Corthis is the place to stay. On the other hand, trendy restaurants and shops. deillan-Bages, a Relais & Chateaux property in if you are on a budget, as I am when I travel, Pauillac. For one thing, the kitchen, under the the nearby Hotel de Normandie is an upI was reminded of this by a recent query direction of Chef Jean-Luc Rocha, has two Miscale three-star (out of five) property that is from a reader concerning travel to Bordeaux. chelin stars. charming and convenient.

Harvest is already underway in many sections of the Bordeaux district, the heavy And the location positions you for visits to The Normandie is a mere two blocks from scent of fermenting grapes in the air being most of the top first-growth and super secondThe Grand and it's just across the street from an attraction in and of itself. growth chateaux of Bordeaux. a tram stop. When I feel the need to connect with the opulence of The Grand, I simply When I visit Bordeaux, I have my own apFans of white Bordeaux, or Bordeaux blanc and walk across the plaza and visit over a glass of proach, which I am happy to share.

Sauternes, might prefer to take up temwine at The Grand bar. porary residence in the opposite direction,

62 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Photos courtesy Bourdeaux Office of Tourism

booking a room at Les Sources de Caudalie, a luxurious spa across the street from Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte in Pessac-Leognan.

The restaurant at Caudalie, La Grand Vigne, has one Michelin star.

F

rom there a thirsty wine tourist can easily reach many of the finest producers of Saturernes and Barsac, the sweet dessert wine of Bordeaux, as well some of the legendary red-and-white wine producers of the region, such as Chateau Haut Brion,

Domaine de Chevalier and Pape Clement.

Last but not least, whenever my schedule permits, I try to squeeze in a visit to the "right bank" village of Saint-Emilion, perhaps the most picturesque wine hamlet to be found anywhere in the world.

This district of Bordeaux borders the commune of Pomerol, and together the two wine districts produce some of the world's most expensive and sought-after wines (Chateau Petrus, Chateau Cheval Blanc and Chateau Ausone, for example).

There is no restaurant in ion that I am aware of with star, but the village is not excellent casual bistros and

Saint-Emila Michelin lacking for wine bars.

When visiting Saint-Emilion, the relais at Chateau Franc Mayne is a charming and convenient location, right on the edge of the village, for an overnight stay. Best of all, the wines of Franc Mayne are modestly priced for Bordeaux and downright delicious.

Opposite top: Bordeaux at night. Opposite center: The Grand is considered the ultimate hotel in the city of Bordeaux. Right top: The charming village of Saint-Emilion.

Bottom: The relais at Chateau Franc in Saint-Emilion.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 63

SAVOR NORWAY DINE ON WONDERFUL SEAFOOD IN BREATHTAKING SETTINGS Story and Photos By Priscilla Lister

N

Norway, “are considered to be among the most scenically outstanding fjord areas on the planet,” says UNESCO. The northern country is literally a “Their exceptional natural beauty is deglacial wonderland, where ancient ice rived from their narrow and steep-sidmasses carved out deep valleys with ed crystalline rock walls,” rising some steep rock walls, then melted and left 5,500 feet above the sea, punctuated them to fill with the sea. The result is by countless waterfalls. a land of fjords, one of the most spectacularly picturesque places on Earth.

Norway’s miles of seashore are actually 57 times greater than its northIndeed, two of Norway’s fjords, to-south mileage.

Naeroyfjord and Geirangerfjord, are listed as UNESCO World Heritage Recalculating the length of their coastSites because they are so beauti- line, Norwegian geographers in 2011 ful. Those two fjords, among many in measured Norway’s seashore to be

orway seems more like a waterscape than a landscape.

64 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

about 63,000 miles of fjords, bays and island shores compared to the country’s north-to-south distance of some 1,100 miles, according to National Geographic magazine.

With all that water -- cold water, no less -- Norway is also a seafood lovers’ destination. It is one of the world’s biggest exporters of fish. More important, it is one of the biggest exporters of very high-quality seafood. Its colder waters, especially in the north, allow fish, mussels and shellfish to grow more slowly, developing a firmer structure with more flavor than fish from

Left: The picturesque island village of Alesund boasts one of the world’s greatest concentrations of Art Nouveau architecture.

Above: A pile of shrimp, boiled with garlic and served with white toast, lemon and mayonnaise, is a locals’ favorite at Lyst restaurant in Alesund. warmer waters. Norwegian salmon is prized all over the world, but there are plenty of other fish in that cold northern sea, too.

When two of my best friends and I visited that gorgeous destination in August, we feasted on fjords, postcardperfect island villages frozen in time, and delectable seafood dishes worth their high prices. Norway will cost you, but your memories will be worth it.

Like almost everywhere today, Norway chefs concentrate on ingredients close to home. They prepare them

simply perfectly, without heavy adornment. We called it minimalist but by no means spartan fresh fare.

We landed in Oslo, the country’s capital where we walked almost everywhere from our fabulous hotel, The Thief, in the city’s hottest new neighborhood, Tjuvholmen (Thieves’ Island).

Opened just in January 2013, The Thief is currently the only hotel in Tjuvholmen, an area adjacent to the city center that was once a dicey working waterfront. Today it’s an international model of revitalization with the new Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art

designed by Renzo Piano, and upscale condos, restaurants and galleries that have turned Tjuvholmen into nightlife central.

The Thief is a bespoke beauty of cuttingedge Norwegian design that in its short life has already attracted Rihanna, Diana Krall and Elvis Costello. We enjoyed the first of our fine seafood meals at The Thief’s own Fru K restaurant, which literally means Mrs. K, named for Mrs. Krogh who owned Tjuvholmen at the end of the 1700s when she grazed cows on this land. This cosmopolitan restaurant has a glowing, warm atmosphere.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 65

Chef Johan Laursen, who greeted us during our meal, prepared a supremely succulent filet of saithe, a white fish, floating in a light shore crab broth and adorned with perfectly poached peas and carrots. On the side were delightful small oblong brown rolls made with barley, the first grain ever cultivated in Norway, and flavored with fennel and caraway seeds.

oil murals depicting Norwegian history inside, where the Nobel Peace Prize ceremony is held every year on Dec. 10.

utes of Oslo: beaches for bathing, small islands for camping, Olympic ski resorts.”

We wandered over to the National Gallery which has a fine collection of paintings by Edvard Munch (“The Scream”) as well as Monet and Cezanne. We walked up tony Karl Johan avenue, Oslo’s main street filled with shops and grand historic hotels, like The Grand, where playwright Henrik Ibsen lunched everyday.

Outside on the sunny patio, we dined on Ekeberg’s trout with chanterelle mushrooms, salsify and shellfish vinaigrette.

One other night in Oslo we raved about our three-course seafood extravaganza just a block from The Thief at Tjuvholmen Sjomagasin. Running into a very welltraveled couple from South Africa whom we’d met at the hotel, they told us this was one of the best meals they’d ever had.

“We only eat cod in the months with ‘R’ in them,” Chef Laursen told us. “Eighty percent of my time is just finding nice stuff to produce really nice food.” He knows the origins of his ingredients personally and aims to take “the best of traditional Norwegian and Scandinavian cuisine and give it a contemporary twist -- keeping in pace with the times and world around us.”

The Royal Palace sits at the end of Karl Johan. We explored the extraordinary new Opera House designed by Snohetta, the firm that also designed Ground Zero in New York City. Covered in Carrara marble with a roof that is also a slanted walking platform, the architects wanted the building to look like an iceberg.

We walked to Oslo’s famed City Hall, the classic building constructed between 1930 and 1950 where every element is Norwegian, from the marble and wood to the wooden carvings of Norwegian legends outside and the monumental

We were ready for dinner. We dined at the reborn historic Ekeberg Restaurant “Most of our dishes are made on our charhigh above the city where views take coal grill, which is why they taste so heavenin Oslo’s seacoast glory. Its charming ly,” says the restaurant. Its excellent wine maitre’d Robert Berggren told us, “ev- selection pairs perfectly with every dish. erything you need lies within 20 min- We started with a few morsels of briny-

66 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Tjuvholmen Sjomagasin is all about seafood. It’s a canal-side restaurant as well as a fantastic fish market, so everything here is as fresh as can be, including the lobsters and king crabs that live in the entry’s aquarium.

Left: The historic buildings of the Bryggen (Wharf) area in Bergen draw lots of visitors and locals for dining and shopping. Above: Just above Bryggen is the city’s famous funicular that climbs to the top of Mount Floyen in just seven minutes where panoramic views reveal the entire city.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 67

fresh oysters sparingly sauced with a few ingredients that even included chocolate. It was much better than it sounds. We followed that with grilled coalfish (another white fish) garnished with caviar and mussels in a lemon beurre blanc. Dessert was decadent hazelnut and chocolate and coconut and raspberry ice creams.

Then we traveled to Alesund via railway and bus, taking us through some of that striking mountain scenery before we landed at one of the most photogenic coastal villages I’ve ever seen.

Alesund sits on a huge harbor, and has consistently been one of Norway’s biggest fishing ports. A huge tragedy there actually transformed this town into one of the world’s loveliest. A devastating fire in 1904 destroyed almost the entire town -- 850 wooden buildings -- in 15 hours. “Alesund’s great fortune was the fire coincided with a depression in Norway so costs for labor and materials were low,” Bente Saxon, our guide from Destination Alesund, told us. Norway’s finest architects and master craftsmen descended on the town and recreated it in that era’s new style, Art Nouveau.

68 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Today Alesund is considered the world’s most concentrated collection of Art Nouveau architecture, and it is simply a jewel.

We found Sjobua, one of Norway’s best fish restaurants, on the water in Alesund in a former boathouse. Ove Fjortfoft started the place in 1987, despite naysayers who thought his idea

to open a seafood-only restaurant was crazy. But he restored the old fish warehouse into a charming place with low wooden-beamed ceilings, white tablecloths and candlelight, and today it’s a locals’ favorite. He strives to serve the best ingredients the sea has to offer, depending on the season and the local fishermen’s catch of the day. His baked lobster soup is beloved, while the fish platter with at least four selections is a gastronomic delight. Wines are wonderfully matched.

For lunch in Alesund, we went to another locals’ favorite, Lyst restaurant, on Kongens Gate (Kings Road), where those simply adorned Art Nouveau buildings sit on cobblestoned streets that are mostly closed to traffic. Here we were treated to enormous plates of fresh boiled shrimp in garlic and butter with white bread and mayonnaise, just like Alesunders like them. Finger bowls with lemon slices were necessary after peeling all that shrimp.

From Alesund, we ventured into Geirangerfjord, one of those gorgeous UNESCO winners, where sunny August skies allowed the tiny green-pastured

villages to reflect in the bright blue waters of that narrow fjord. The rock walls sometimes appeared virtually vertical, rising nearly 5,000 feet; the boat captain said that in the old days when crops were cultivated during summer here, farmers had to tether their children to keep them from falling into the sea.

We landed at Geiranger, another one of those exquisite coastal villages where tiny old wooden buildings featured roofs covered in green-grass sod, complete with wildflowers.

Left, top: Fiskeboller, aka fish balls, are a classic Norwegian dish, served here at one of Bergen’s oldest restaurants, Wesselstuen.

Left, bottom: The cozy interior of Sjobua in Alesund, one of Norway’s finest seafood restaurants. Above: The Thief’s Fru K’s Chef Johan Laursen’s seafood preparations, like this filet of saithe, are exquisitely simple and fresh. Below: Bengt Dahlberg serves homemade chocolates at the charming chocolate shop in Geiranger that resides in one of those fairy-tale sod-roofed wooden buildings.

One of our favorite meals was at the Brasserie Posten, in the small town’s old post office, right on the harbor in view of those fairytale buildings. Chef Kenneth Loken opened it just a couple of years ago and has been a success ever since. He strives to serve the freshest seasonal Norwegian ingredients he can find -- and he carries over 50 varieties of Norwegian beer from 15 different microbreweries.

We had a scrumptious shrimp salad and a smorgasbord plate of smoked salmon and meats as we sat on that charming harbor, washing it down with Slogen light ale from Troll Brewery, which started production only in 2009.

In Bergen, a major port where the colorful harborside wooden buildings of Bryggen, a World Heritage Site, house the Fish Market, the Bryggens Museum and lots of outdoor cafes and indoor shops, we went old-school. Wesselstuen, one of Bergen’s oldest restaurants since 1957, serves authentic, traditional Norwegian fare in an 18th century wine cellar. Here we lunched on “fiskeboller,” fish balls, deep fried nuggets of dried salt cod served with greens and a tomato sauce for dipping.

Norway is as breathtakingly beautiful as everything you’ve ever read.

And its seafood is as worthy of superlatives, too, especially by today’s lighthanded chefs who never mask but only enhance their superb ingredients.

Savor that wondrous waterscape yourself.

IF YOU GO: For more information on all these destinations and restaurants. http://wwwvisitnorway.com/us/ http://www.visitolslo/com/en/ http://www.thethief.com/en http://www.visitalesund-geiranger.com/en http://www.visitbergen.com/en http://www.fru-k.com/ http://www.ekebergrestauranten.com/no/ http://tupalo.com/en/rd/3n5k5e http://www.sjoebua.no/en-US/default.aspx http://brasserieposten.no/ http://www.lystmeny.no/ http://www.wesselstuen.no/

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 69

70 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Kauai Story & Photos

By Alison DaRosa

It has it all - but not too much of anything

T

here are plenty of reasons to love this island. Few places offer the visual splendor and natural diversity of this Pacific oasis. But it’s the island’s laid-back culture that keeps luring me back.

The blow hole at Kauai’s Spouting Horn Park.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com

71

K

auai is the oldest and northernmost of the four major Hawaiian Islands – and its 64,000 residents aim to preserve its rugged, relaxed individuality as well as its wild natural beauty: Only 5 percent of the island’s 552 square miles are designated for urban development – and building guidelines prohibit structures higher than a mature coconut palm. The island’s major highway is a two-lane road that stops short of the impenetrable Napali Coast and leaves much of the island’s interior inaccessible by car. Locals take pride in maintaining narrow single-lane bridges that don’t accommodate tour buses.

For fun and games, there are, of course, the beaches and all they offer: surfing, snorkeling, swimming, scuba diving, sunbathing. Beyond that, there are rivers to kayak, mountains and valleys to hike, forests and waterfalls for ziplining over. There are leis to wear, hulas to learn, lilikoi (passion fruit) lemonades to drink – straight or infused with locally made Koloa rum.

market, we shopped for Kauai–grown coffee, local honey and Portuguese sweet bread – fixings suitable for a picnic during a bike ride along the Koloa Heritage Trial – a mostly flat ramble past 14 markers that point out sites important to local history and culture. We shared the road with clucking chickens; they roam free everywhere.

Another day, we toured the Allerton NaWith a San Diego friend, I spent a week tional Tropical Botanical Garden, once the based on Kauai’s sunny southern Poipu mid-19th -century retreat for Hawaii’s Coast. At Ko’a Kea, one of the newer Queen Emma. Today the garden is a mas(opened in spring 2009) luxe hotels on terpiece of landscape design, merging the island, we sat on our oceanfront bal- stunning natural beauty with man-made cony, sipping morning espresso (from the art presented in outdoor “rooms”. Like in-room espresso maker) as we watched little kids, we posed for photos, tucked There’s little hustle-bustle here; it’s easy to kama’aina (longtime locals) use traditional between the massive roots of the garfeel you’re a part of old Hawaii. lei nets to fish the reefs out front. Later that den’s Moreton Bay fig trees, near the afternoon we snorkeled those same reefs. spot where director Steven Spielberg hid Still, the island has every comfort and conraptor eggs in “Jurassic Park”. venience a visitor might crave – from five- We strolled the wooden sidewalks of Koloa, star hotels to plate-lunch trucks and camp- a town that sugar plantations built nearly After we moved mid-week to an oceantwo centuries ago. At the neighborhood front condo at Whalers Cove, we began grounds. Kauai even has Costco.

72 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

to feel even more like locals. We shopped for dinner at the tiny family owned Koloa Fish Market (fishers deliver their daily catches around 4 p.m.) and stocked our freezer with Lappert’s Kauai Pie ice cream, a super-sinful addictive mix of Kona coffee ice cream swirled with fudge, macadamia nuts and coconut flakes.

“It feels like it’s our island,” said Cindi Lambert, my San Diego friend. “It’s so easy to fit into the small-town neighborly ambiance. You don’t feel like a tourist – unless you want to.”

Exploring Napali Cindi is an experienced hiker and once tackled the Napali Coast’s Kalalau Trail, a treacherous 22-mile roundtrip. “You’re on slick red clay on a trail that might be onlyw as wide as your pack,” she recalled. “The wind’s blowing – and then it starts to rain – and you’re cautiously tip-toeing along. You’re on the edge of cliff that’s 1,000 or more feet above the raging sea. You’re lucky to do a mile an hour. It’s absolutely fantastic.”

This time we opted to check out Napali’s staggering emerald-meets-sapphire beauty, its razor-edge cliffs and isolated beaches, from the air (in a helicopter) and from the sea (in a catamaran).

In 2010, AOL Travel labeled Kauai helicopter tours one of the 10 most dangerous tourist attractions in the world. Scary?

Darn right – from the moment we booked our reservations when an agent asked how much each of us weighs, to the harrowing truth-or-flee scene at base when we were ordered on to a scale.

“It’s an FAA rule,” Shanda Gallagher at Blue Hawaiian Helicopters explained. There were seven of us – and loading the copter was orderly, according to weight, so that the big bird’s load was evenly distributed.

Once airborne, we skimmed the Waimea Canyon, a two-mile-wide, 3,500-foot-deep, cloud-frosted gorge dubbed the Grand Canyon of the Pacific.

Opposite top: Bird’s eye view of Kauai from a helicopter tour. Top: A local inspecting a tropical flower at Allerton Garden. Right: The Kauai shoreline.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 73

Top: Kuhio Shores Beach, one of many intimate little beaches on the Poipu Coast. Opposite top: A group of bike riders on the Koloa Heritage Trail bike ride. Bottom: The Kauai beaches and shoreline.

»

“We’re flying at about 90 miles an hour coastline, we glimpsed segments of the vorting alongside the cat, spotted humpnow,” our pilot announced as we closed Kalalau Trail – and were very, very happy back whales – and ogled the scenery. in on the walls of the island’s largest cal- we were viewing it from above.

“We love it,” said Stephanie Fitzgerald, who dera. “That gives you some perspective on The next day, our view was from sea level. lives on Kauai. She leaned back on the how large this is.” (At 10-12 miles across, We let the crew at Capt. Andy’s Sailing Ad- deck of sailboat, cradling her 7-year-old the caldera is the largest on the Hawaiian ventures do all the work. Our five-hour son, Kawai, between her legs. “I lost my Islands.) catamaran sail included a tasty buffet heart to Napali years ago,” she said. “It’s When the copter hit air pockets, its dance lunch and was to include a stop for swim- always changing – the wind, the colors, caused stomachs to lurch, hearts to race. ming and snorkeling. Unfortunately, na- the sunlight. I work taking people to see the coast in a zodiac. It’s my day off and But seconds later, we were mesmerized ture didn’t cooperate.

I’m here with my son – all blissed out on by long iridescent ribbons of silvery wa“Ninety-nine percent of the time we go Napali.” terfalls cascading down the faces of versnorkeling and swimming,” said Capt. dant peaks, lush folds of emerald walls Trent Conlon. But it was too rough this Her words rang true for us, too. Only we’d that dropped to the bottoms of twisted time. No one complained. We photobeen blissed out all week long. canyons. And finally, soaring along the graphed a school of spinner dolphins ca74 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

IF YOU GO Staying there:

Ko’a Kea offers 121 rooms starting at $349 a night. Learn more at www.koakea.com.

Five-hour Napali catamaran excursions with Capt. Andy’s Sailing Adventures, including lunch and a snorkel/swim stop, cost $149 for adults, $109 for kids 2-12 years old. Save $10 per person by buying online. www.napali.com .

Whalers Cove offers 39 onwe- and two-bedroom oceanfront condos starting at $275 a night. Learn more at www.whalerscoveresort.com. Check online for deals/packages at both Outfitters Kauai offers bike rentals starting at $25 per day. resorts.

This is also the place to rent kayaks ($40 per day) and sign up for zipline tours (from $154). www.outfitterskauai.com .

Check Kauai Vacation Rentals (www.kauaivacationrentals. com) and Poipu Vacation Rentals (www.gopoipu.com) for ac- Tours of the Allerton National Tropical Botanical Garden cost commodations starting at about $100 per night. $35 per person. Reservations are required: www.ntbg.org/ gardens/allerton.php .

Camping permits for non-residents cost $25. Phone (808) 241-4463.

More info: Learn more about Kauai at www.gohawaii.com/ kauai. Get more details on Poipu at www.poipubeach.org/.

Playing there: Hour-long Blue Hawaiian helicopter tours cost $210.65. www.bluehawaiian.com .

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 75

Sawtooth MOUNTAINS Idaho’s Scenic Sawtooth Mountains Offer Majestic Rugged Beauty and Dude Ranch Luxury

76 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

O ne

of the most engaging aspects of the great American West is the sheer magnitude of it all. Somehow, there’s just a grander scale out there, born of endless mountain vistas, mighty rushing rivers, lingering sunsets and vast herds of cattle pushed across the golden plains by the cowboys in the films of our youth. Best of all, it’s still all there, all true, in some elemental way.

»

By John Alongé Photo by Roxanne Overton

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 77

Photos courtesy Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch

Âť

N

owhere is it truer than in the jagged Sawtooth Mountains of Central Idaho. There, the 778,000-acre Sawtooth National Recreation Area teams up with the adjacent 2.3 million-acre Franck Church-River of No Return Wilderness to form one of the largest wilderness areas in the lower forty-eight states, second in size only to the barren expanse of Death Valley.

Entering the spectacular Sawtooth Valley from the south over the Galena summit near the headwaters of the Salmon River, it’s hard to imagine that one is only an hour removed from the glittering celebrity urban cowboy oases of Ketchum and Sun Valley. The entire 30-mile length of the valley is traversed by Idaho State Highway 75, also known as the Sawtooth Scenic Byway. Incidentally, the word highway, in this case, is a misnomer. Idaho 75 is an incredibly scenic 2-lane road, following close by the Salmon River as it threads a north-south route on the 78 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

valley floor. The Sawtooth Mountains line the west side of the road and the White Cloud Mountains tower immediately to the east.

What is perhaps most amazing about this alpine wonderland is the virtual absence of people. There is only one town in the entire

Sawtooth National Recreation Area, diminutive Stanley. As of the census of 2010, Stanley claimed 63 full-time residents. The town, which is a summer center of activity for hikers, bicyclers, climbers, river rafters, fly fishers and horseback riding enthusiasts, has

a number of lodging options, bars, restaurants, 2 gas stations and a Mercantile, a kind of all-purpose supermarket and general store.

Outside of town, habitations are sparse, this thanks to the protected status of virtually all the land in and around the Stanley Basin. Hiking even the most popular trails during the peak of summer, one is continually amazed at how few people there are. This is an incredible luxury compared to most mountain destinations.

Try visiting the Grand Tetons anytime in summer to put this into perspective.

The area boasts a substantial number of alpine lakes. The most popular ones, all easily accessible by road, are Redfish, Alturas, Pettit and Stanley lakes.

These are great places for family camping, swimming and hiking. Redfish, the largest of them all, has complete facilities, including a lodge, marina, restaurant, general store and gas station. Throughout the summer, live music is booked on the lawn overlooking the lake, a great place to while away a warm afternoon or evening. Back country lakes are favorite hiking

destinations and some of them, like Sawtooth Lake and Alice Lake, are among the most beautiful to be found anywhere.

Another compelling feature of the area is an abundance of hot springs. Soaking is a way of life in the Stanley Basin for both locals and visitors. While some hot springs are quite remote and require substantial effort to find and enjoy, others empty directly into the Salmon River and are easily accessible.

There’s something particularly magical about soaking in a combination of warm spring water and cold, rushing river water. There are spots along the river where generations of soakers have built up small pools by piling up stones.

Moving the stones around a bit allows you to adjust the water temperature for your ultimate comfort. All that with a backdrop of majestic mountains!

While there are a number of hotels, lodges and cabins to rent in the area, the ultimate Stanley Basin retreat is the 1,000-acre Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch. This spectacularly beautiful property, just nine miles south of Stanley, accommodates guests from mid-June till mid-September. The main lodge building was built in 1930 by New York Frigidaire executive Winston Paul. Cabins were soon added and the property remained private under several successive owners until 1977, when it was opened to outside guests.

This is truly one of the great destinations in the American West. The setting is unequalled, with the enormous porch of the main lodge building directly facing the Sawtooth range. Wildlife abounds: Elk, deer, antelope, wolves, bald eagles and trout are in abundance. Along with the obvious array of outdoor activities, Ranch guests are treated to readings by local authors, wine tastings, fly fishing clinics, photography workshops, live Western music and a worldclass fine dining program with breakfast lunch and dinner. The Ranch also has its own hot spring-fed pool. A nighttime soak there with the Milky Way above is not to be missed.

If you’re really looking to get away and experience the best of the Old West with all of today’s comforts thrown in, there’s no finer destination than the Sawtooth Mountains.

While folks are sitting in a line of automobiles at better-known mountain destinations, you’ll be assured of enjoying the great outdoors with plenty of room to breathe the fresh alpine air. It just doesn’t get any better than that, cowboy.

Opposite page: Horse drawn wagon with the Sawtooth range in the background.

Opposite lower: Author John Alongé talks wine with ranch guests.

Top: Cowgirl riding the Sawtooth range.

Bottom: The main house at the 1,000-acre Idaho Rocky Mountain Ranch.

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 79

ANTARCTICA A VOYAGE TO

STORY & PHOTOS BY MARIBETH MELLIN

A

curious obsession took hold the moment I set forth for Antarctica. During the long journey to the fin del mundo, the end of the world at the tip of South America, all non-essential information evaporated from my mind.

I never even got past the first sentence in Kim Stanley Robinson’s novel “Antarctica.”

80 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

“First you fall in love with Antarctica, and then it breaks your heart.”

I decided right then I needed a blank slate to face the loneliest, coldest, windiest, iciest continent, a place astronauts call the white lantern. I’m not a history or science buff and knew little about Ernest Shackleton, Roald Amundson, Robert Scott or torturous

Above: Shiny as aluminum, the sea reflects dazzling snow and sky.

South Pole expeditions. I hadn’t even seen “March of the Penguins.”

My obsession was all about extremes and a lifelong yearning to be alone in remote natural settings. Surely Antarctica would provide the ultimate opportunity for solitude amid mind-blowing natural environs. Little did I know just how much I would fall in love with icebergs and the many shades of white.

My magical moments came unexpectedly, in sudden bursts like the streams of dazzling sunlight in Earth’s cleanest skies. Icebergs so blue they made me shiver.

Winds and waves so frighteningly fierce it felt as though the planet were spinning into space. Eerie desolation.

Again, Robinson’s words are best: “Your heart breaks then simply because it is squeezed so hard, because the world is so spacious and pure and beautiful…”

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 81

“Your heart breaks then simply because it is squeezed so hard, because the world is so spacious and pure and beautiful…” ~ Kim Stanley Robinson

T

he Journey

“The Worst Journey in the World,” is how explorer Apsley Cherry-Garrard entitled his classic book on the 1912 Scott expedition to the South Pole. My fellow passengers, all swaddled in the warm red parkas provided in each cabin, might well have agreed as we steamed through the fierce Drake Passage on the mv Discovery.

Captain Michael Cavaghan, who said he gets seasick even in a yacht, announced we were battling 40 milean-hour winds in 32-foot swells.

Drawers flew from nightstands, doors slammed unceasingly, plates

82 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

and silverware spun in the air is if “Fantasia”.

We sailed on through roiling, nauseating seas for about 36 hours, which felt like 36 days, naturally. The As we sailed the churning sea, the Shore Expedition crew, led by a pale captain and Ice Master scanned and woozy Dr. Peter Carey, filled the the water for growlers (pieces of ice hours with lectures on penguins, hidden by waves) and chose not to seabirds and sea spiders the size tempt the Titanic sirens by stopping of dinner plates. Gigantism is comat Deception Island or sailing into mon in southern waters, apparently.

Lemaire Channel, described as “exSomething about excessive oxygen hilarating” and “thrilling” in our inand lack of pollution. formation booklet. Other ships have been trapped in “iceberg alley,” and We learned that the Southern Ocean Cavaghan didn’t like all the bergy links the Atlantic, Pacific and Indian bits floating about. oceans and swirls around the white continent at the very tip of the plan“Flexibility is what this cruise is all et. More than 90 percent of earth’s about, apart from enjoying the scenice covers Antarctica, rippling across ery,” he declared in a tone that oblitplateaus, slithering into mountain erated protest.

Left: Chinstrap penguins are accustomed to ignoring cruise ships Above: Penguins have the right of way everywhere

creases, rising layer upon jagged layer in a frilly skirt of ice shelves that harden and break apart with the seasons. The deepest ice, smashed until all air has escaped, is the purest blue you’ll ever see. Mountains are whiter than snow with nothing, not even bird droppings, to sully their crystalline sheen. Bergy bits glide like lacy origami swans on glassy water.

“Antarctica is a frozen desert in a frozen sea,” Captain Cavaghan said during a lecture. “Why do we go there?

Because it’s the last pristine place in the world.”

ness patch made my brain worthless.

My body felt as if it were constantly rotating 360 degrees on a rotisserie.

I did, however, scribble one statement coherently.

winds could have kept us constantly at sea.

We encountered just two of the five penguin species found in Antarctica, missing the stately Emperors “I didn’t know what to say or write and Kings. Lindblad Expeditions, until I left Antarctica behind,” artist Abercrombie & Kent and Quark Noel Miller said during a dream-like Expeditions offer longer cruises slideshow on Antarctic art. “I could that include more wildlife. Holland not really fathom what I was seeing America and other lines offer cruises that include penguin colonies in the or find words to describe it.”

Falkland Islands and Argentina. Our Penguin Sightings cruise on the mv Discovery was the Our voyage’s shore excursions took shortest I could find that included place only twice during the week- shore excursions within Antarctica.

It was all quite fascinating, though I long cruise. We spent maybe three Though our stops were brief, we did have few notes from the many hours hours total on land, and considered encounter two-foot-tall gentoos in the dark lecture hall. My seasick- ourselves lucky. Weather, ice, and with bright orange beaks and comiWinter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 83

84 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

Left: Stalwart penguins sleep while others bleat.

Right: A mother and son share warmth onboard the mv Discovery.

cal chinstraps with black feathers collaring their necks.

stole rocks from each other’s nests as we wandered through puddles and a gooey compound one lecturer called orthinogenic soil (penguin We rode in zodiacs to shore, wearing rubber and seabird manure). The excursion staff, wearboots, waterproof pants, parkas, gloves, hats ing bright yellow Penguin Patrol vests, kept and annoyingly confining lifejackets--the penwatch on us at all times. Penguins had the right guins were far more graceful. On Half Moon of way, waddling, hopping and tobogganing Island, chinstrap penguins dotted hilltops and on their bellies between hills and the sea. They beaches as if guarding the continent. Newborn seemed fearless, though guides told us penguins chicks sprawled on the rocks like sleeping cats are worried by humans and can get downright while adults lifted their beaks and let forth with stressed with all the red jackets around. a chorus of bleats.

Most of us would have been sorely disappointed The ammonia smell of poop and pee was quite had we not spent time with the penguins, but breathtaking. Small price to pay for watching they weren’t the trip’s only highlight. We had hungry chicks chase their mothers. Parents fed several calm days with air temperatures into the their young by regurgitating krill into the babies’ 60s and views of mountain peaks 70 miles off on mouths--looked like they were swallowing the the horizon. kids’ heads. The penguins posed, preened and Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 85

“The Expedition Team will be talking about this weather for years,” Cavaghan said as we stood in shirtsleeves (thermal shirts, mind you) under the warming sun.

A group of like-minded nature lovers commandeered the teak lounge chairs on deck and idly watched the scenery, champagne flutes in hand. A cream-colored seal snoozing atop an iceberg brought a crowd to the rails at one point. Cameras clicked with paparazzi frenzy as the berg cracked and the thousand-pound seal tumbled into spray and foam, then swiftly slid up the largest chunk of ice.

Within moments, seal and humans were back in dreamland.

Tabular icebergs flat as plateaus rose above the sea, dwarfing the 20,000ton Discovery. Dozens of chinstrap penguins porpoised beside the boat, diving and surfacing like mini dol-

them “willy willies”) swooshed down gray mountains streaked shimmering white.

The sunset on one of those stunning bright days went on for at least six hours. The sun alternately shaded the sea gold, turquoise, sapphire and lavender as it descended on the horizon. Pale coral streaks in the sky deepened to a rosy glow settling over pink ice. During his talk on art, Noel Miller had emphasized the colors of Antarctica and the fact that it isn’t all blue and white. I’m not sure any painter or photographer could ever capture the colors we saw that night. I thought of physiologist Craig Franklin’s talk on Antarctica’s web of life.

phins. The occasional Orca set off a spout; giant petrels and wandering Shiny as aluminum, the ocean mir- albatrosses swooped in air currents. “It really gets you in your heart and rored glaciers and frothy clouds. Katabatic winds (the Aussies called in your soul.”

Above: Golden sunsets last many hours. Center: Expedition team explores in the small boats.

86 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

READER PHOTOS

W

e’ve select three scenic travel shots for this issue’s reader photos.

Clay Chapman’s excellent shot of the London Eye at dusk with Westminster lighted up in the background works very well with this issue’s theme. His friend and business partner Marco Simoni has a passion for travel and nature photography and it shows with a panoramic mountain and bay in New Zealand (top) and the beautiful Yasawa Islands in Fiji (bottom right).

Winter 2014 winedineandtravel.com 87

JOIN US FOR THE 2014

Ber S e p t e m4 , 5 -1 2014

An Eastern European Adventure. Be a Part of Literary History. Help Solve a Literary Mystery.

A KAFKA PROJEcT TOUR Led by the author of Kafka’s Last Love And Kafka Project Director, Kathi Diamant

1 0 - D AY TOUR

P R A G U E

88 Wine Dine & Travel Winter 2014

•

K R A K O W

•

B E R L I N

http://tour.kafkaproject.c o m