Wine Dine & Travel Magazine Winter 2017 by Ron James

GE PA ON 60 ITI L 1 ED IA E EC UIS SP CR

WINE DINE &

TRAVEL THE AWARD-WINNING TRAVEL MAGAZINE

WINTER 2017 2016 WINTER

THE AMAZING JOURNEY TALE OF TWO FOOD TOURS: EATING ROME AND LONDON EXPERIENCING THE TREASURES OF JAPAN HIKING ITALY’S CINQUE TERRE TRAILS A DOWN-UNDER IRON HORSE RIDE

THE AMAZING JOURNEY CRUISING THE “KING” RIVER IN EUROPE WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

WINE DINE &

TRAVEL PUBLISHERS

Ron & Mary James EXECUTIVE EDITOR /ART DIRECTOR Ron James EDITOR Mary James STAFF WRITERS Alison DaRosa Priscilla Lister John Muncie Jody Jaffe

COLUMNISTS Amy Laughinghouse Robert Whitley Susan McBeth

FEATURE WRITERS Sharon Whitley Larsen

Maribeth Mellin Amy Laughinghouse Judy Garrison

WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM CONTACT

Photo by Ron James

Carl Larsen

Wine Dine & Travel Magazine is big in Jordan. Here’s one of the members of the Royal Jordanian Heritage Dance Company holding up his favorite travel magazine. “I love all the pictures,” he said from the stage in Wadi Rum.

editor@winedineandtravel.com WDT respects the intellectual property rights of others, and we ask that our readers do the same. We have adopted a policy in accordance with the Digital Millennium Copyright Act (“DMCA”) and other applicable laws.

Wine Dine & Travel Magazine is a Wine Country Interactive Inc. publication @ 2017

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WE’RE SERIOUS ABOUT GREAT JOURNALISM SIX MAJOR NEW AWARDS FOR WDT

Since our first year Wine Dine & Travel has earned dozens of awards for everything that makes a great magazine. We’ve won top awards in every key category, including editorial, design, humor, photography and columns. We’re proud of that we continue to receive these accolades year in and out from the most respected journalism organizations in the nation. That means that you know you’re reading one of the best travel publications in the industry. And that’s due to our dedicated family of world-class travel writers and photographers. We couldn’t do this without them.

SDPC EXCELLENCE IN JOURNALISM AWARDS 2016 Travel Story Humor Feature Layout & Design Still Photography Best Column

WDT: AWARD-WINNING PRINT & DIGITAL

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Editor’s Note

Ron & Mary James

The Fear of Travel n today’s world, fear is rampant in almost every aspect of

on a Caribbean cruise. They understand that stuff happens,

our lives - global warming, the economy, healthcare, inter-

whether its hurricanes in the Atlantic or pick pockets in

national politics, and yes, even travel. Even the unintended

Bermuda. They are aware of the risks, and they do everything

consequences of American presidential actions induces

they can to mitigate potentially bad outcomes, whether it’s

fear among travelers. We can’t do too much about most of

scheduling the cruise out of the hurricane season or not

these fearsome subjects, but we can shed some light on fear

wearing flashy jewelry.

of travel. Unreasonable fear keeps folks from living a fulfilling life. For A little fear is OK. It’s a survival instinct that has served hu-

dedicated travelers, exploring the world is one of the joys of

mans well since they started walking on two legs. It rears up

living, and in some ways, it’s necessary for their wellbeing.

while traveling since you’re out of your comfort zone - out of

Besides the pleasures of exploring exotic places, discovering

familiar environs and routines.

great food and making new friends, it is the sense of adventure that makes travel so appealing. And adventure often

It may be dangerous commuting 30 miles to work going 70

comes from unexpected experiences whether it’s getting lost

mph on a freeway full of wacko drivers. Though we don’t look

in the streets of Rome or, as you will read in this issue’s cover

forward to it, we don’t fear it because it’s familiar, a known

story, cruising through pirate-infested waters in the Middle

quantity, a routine. You prepare for your daily commute by

East.

checking traffic and weather conditions before you go. You make sure your car is in good repair and you keep your cell

Fear of travel is trumped by knowledge, appropriate caution

phone in your pocket while driving. You are prepared and

and preparation. It is mitigated by our need to see new things,

experienced, so you don’t fear it.

meet new people and find adventure.

Most experienced travelers do their homework too. They are

After all of our years of travel, our only real fear is missing the

prepared, substituting knowledge, awareness and caution

boat.

for fear. Travel veterans are accustomed to stepping out of their comfort zones, even if they have the President’s Suite

Just do it – safe travels,

Ron & Mary James WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM

MEET WINE DINE & TRAVEL’S RON JAMES

Before They Went There

Award-winning travel magazine publisher and writer, Ron James will appear on the Savvy Traveler Theater stage presenting his musings about travel journalism and the joy and reality of being a travel writer. See him there or visit him at the Wine Dine & Travel Booth at the show. Wine Dine & Travel readers get a discount using the coupon below.

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WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

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Travel Gear WDT TESTED & APPROVED Finally, here’s a man’s wallet that makes sense. Carrying a wallet in your back pocket not only invites pickpockets, it is a real pain in the behind. This will be WDT’s go to wallet and not just for travel. Here’s a beautiful front pocket wallet that is more comfortable and more secure than anything else out there. This savvy manufacturer noticed that a front pocket isn’t a square shape - it has a rounded, pointed shape, kind of like a shark fin -- hence the shape. The Rogue Front Pocket Wallet is now offered in a couple of dozen styles in leathers like alligator, bison and moose. $30 - $60 www.rogue-industries.com

A good suitcase is essential for a savvy traverler. Travel can be extremely stressful, but this year, Samsonite is here to help with first-ever technology and design in their STRYDE Glider series luggage. We tried it and it’s a beautiful. So what makes this luggage unique? Well, picture your current suitcase. Now picture it on its side. It’s lower to the ground, has room for a

HYDAWAY is a collapsible water bottle that folds down

taller handle (12 different heights in fact), and it’s easy to push, pull and

to just over an inch high. Put it in your purse or back-

carry. The StrideAlign technology redefines the physics of luggage ma-

pack pocket—no more carrying a bulky, empty bottle

neuverability by changing the shape of the packing compartment and

all day long. And the durable silicone won’t add any

widening the handle system

unwanted taste to your drink.

The STRYDE Glider comes in two colors (charcoal and blue slate) and

Expand the bottle full size to quench the biggest thirst.

in a medium and large sizes. ($259.99 – 19.75”H x 22 W” and $289.99 –

When you’re finished, collapse it flat (just over an inch

22” H x 24” W, respectively) Available at most luggage retailers.

thick to be exact) and stash it in your pocket, pack, purse, almost anywhere. $20 www.hydawaybottle.com

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INCREDIBLE INDIA FOR THE ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME

I would totally recommend Sabu and his Icon India tour company. We had the experience of a lifetime. ~ Ron James, publisher WDT.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

ICON

INDIA

GO BEYOND YOUR IMAGINATION

CONTACT: SABU RAM www.iconindiatours.com +91 855 984 54 40 www.iconindiatours.com

Here’s what people are saying: “Perfect guide for hiking in San Diego city and county. Have followed Priscilla Lister’s column for years and recommended it to others. Her knowledge of urban, suburban and country trails is unparalleled. Because of her enthusiasm and engaging writing style, I am learning more about the history of San Diego, its topography, and people.” “I’ve lived in San Diego all my life and never realized how much of it I was missing. Excellent book. I’ve purchased multiple copies as gifts for friends too.” www.takeahikesandiego.com.

NOW AVAILABLE ON AMAZON.COM & AT FINE BOOKSTORES

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Our Journalists WDT travel writers have over 300-years of combined professional experience. Put those years end-to-end and WDT magazine could have started in 1716.

Ron James Ron James is the "wine, food and travel guy." He is a nationally award-winning print and online journalist, graphic designer, television producer and radio personality. The native Californian's nationally syndicated wine and food columns have appeared in newspapers and magazines around the world. He is passionate about great wine and food and enthusiastically enjoys them every day!

Maribeth Mellin Maribeth Mellin is an award-winning journalist whose travel articles have appeared in Endless Vacation Magazine, U-T San Diego and Dallas Morning News among others. She also travels and writes for several websites including CNN Travel, Concierge.com and Zagat, and has authored travel books on Peru, Argentina, Costa Rica, Mexico, Hawaii and California. Though known as a Mexico pro, Maribeth has written about every continent and was especially thrilled by the ice, air and penguins in Antarctica.

Priscilla Lister Priscilla Lister is a longtime journalist in her native San Diego. She has covered many subjects over the years, but travel is her favorite. Her work, including photography, has appeared in the San Diego Union-Tribune, Los Angeles Times, Alaska Airlines’ magazine and numerous other publications throughout the U.S. and Canada. She is the author of “Take a Hike: San Diego County,” a comprehensive hiking guide to 260 trails in amazing San Diego County. But when the distant road beckons, she can’t wait to pack her bags.

Robert Whitley Robert Whitley writes the syndicated “Wine Talk” column for Creators Syndicate and is publisher of the online wine magazine, Wine Review Online. Whitley frequently serves as a judge at wine competitions around the world, including Concours Mondial de Bruxelles, Sunset Magazine International and the Dallas Morning News TexSom wine competitions. Robert also operates four major international wine competitions in San Diego: Critics Challenge, Winemaker Challenge, Sommelier Challenge and the San Diego International.

Jody Jaffe & John Muncie Jody and John are the co-authors of the novels, “Thief of Words,” and “Shenandoah Summer,” published by Warner Books. John was feature editor of the San Diego Union-Tribune, arts editor of The Baltimore Sun and writer-editor-columnist for the travel department of The Los Angeles Times. His travel articles have been published in many major newspapers; he's a Lowell Thomas award-winner. Jody is the author of "Horse of a Different Killer,"'Chestnut Mare, Beware," and "In Colt Blood,” As a journalist at the Charlotte Observer, she was on a team that won the Pulitzer Prize. Her articles have been published in many newspapers and magazines including The New York Times and The Los Angeles Times. They live on a farm in Lexington, Va., with eleven horses, three cats and an explosion of stink bugs.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Mary James Mary Hellman James is an award-winning San Diego journalist and editor. After a 29-yearcareer with the San Diego Union-Tribune, she currently is a freelance garden writer and a columnist for San Diego Home-Garden/Lifestyles magazine. Mary and her husband, Ron James, travel extensively.

Alison DaRosa Alison DaRosa is a six-time winner of the Lowell Thomas Gold Award for travel writing, the most prestigious prize in travel journalism. She served 15 years as Travel Editor of the San Diego Union-Tribune and was the award-winning editor of the San Diego News Network Travel Page. She created San Diego Essential Guide, a highly rated travel app for mobile devices. Alison writes a monthly Travel Deals column for the San Diego Union-Tribune and is a regular freelance contributor to the travel sections of the Los Angeles Times, USA Today and AOL Travel.

Carl H. Larsen Carl H. Larsen is a veteran journalist based in San Diego. He now focuses on travel writing, and is summoned to pull out his notebook whenever there’s the plaintive cry of a steam locomotive nearby. In San Diego, he is a college-extension instructor who has led courses on the Titanic and the popular TV series “Downton Abbey.”

Judy & Len Garrison Judy is the editor of Georgia Connector Magazine and Peach State Publications as well as a freelance writer/photographer/traveler for national/international publications including Deep South Magazine, Interval Magazine, Simply Buckhead, US Airways Magazine, Southern Hospitality Traveler and has a bi-monthly blog in Blue Ridge Country’s online edition. Her first book, North Georgia Moonshine: A History of the Lovells and other Liquor Makers, is available at Amazon.com. She and Len own Seeing Southern,L.L.C., a documentary photography company.

Sharon Whitley Larsen Sharon Whitley Larsen’s work has appeared in numerous publications, including Los Angeles Times Magazine, U-T San Diego, Reader’s Digest (and 19 international editions), Creators Syndicate, and several “Chicken Soup for the Soul” editions. Although she enjoys writing essays, op-ed, and people features, her favorite topic is travel (favorite destination London). She’s been lucky to attend a private evening champagne reception in Buckingham Palace to celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s Diamond Jubilee, to dine with best-selling author Diana Gabaldon in the Scottish Highlands, and hike with a barefoot Aborigine in the Australian Outback. Exploring sites from exotic travels in the Arctic Circle to ritzy Rio, with passport in hand, she’s always ready for the next adventure!

Amy Laughinghouse London-based writer and photographer Amy Laughinghouse has attempted to overcome her fears (and sometimes basic common sense) through her adventures in 30 countries around the world. She dishes on the perks and perils of globetrotting for publications like LonelyPlanet.com, AAA Journey Magazine, Virtuoso Life, and The Dallas Morning News. Her travel tales can also be found on her website, www.amylaughinghouse.com.

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Contents

THE AMAZING JOURNEY A special feature on WDT’s just completed cruise from Rome to Dubai on Azamara Club Cruise line’s ship Journey through the Suez Canal. We would be sailing through some of the most infamous seas in modern history.

29 60

WINE DINE & ROCK AND ROLL A tasty look at a cruise on the Azamara Journey. We visit an Omani family for an authentic feast and dance under the desert sky in Wadi Rum, Jordan.

RETHINKING BEAUJOLAIS The U.S. market has changed, so too has Beaujolais, where Georges Duboeuf oversees a vast network of small growers and independent winemakers. Robert Whitley take a look this French wine pioneer and how his company keeps up with the trends.

PATHS OF WONDER As Kawika Foster, the 51st generation to teach ancient Hawaiian traditions in Molokai’s Halawa Valley, guided us through this verdant natural wonder, he encouraged us to be absolutely present -- mind, body and soul. He called this the “sacred teaching of aloha.”

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

SHOT OF A LIFETIME

TREASURES OF JAPAN

102

Sailing the Caribbean was never on my list of travel adventures; however, for my husband it was a dream. As photographers, travel became about getting that one, great image. This was no different. I just had to get on location without hyperventilating first.

We were on one of Japan’s musical roads – paved with precise grooves that cause wheels to vibrate and emit sound into the vehicle, much like an old fashioned record player. It was a magical moment – one of many during my first visit to Japan.

A FEAST FOR THE SENSES This isn’t any old dusty path. It’s part of 120 miles of undulating trails that flit through pine-scented forests, flirt with postcard panoramas of the blue Ligurian Sea, and snake alongside terraced vineyards as they crisscross the Cinque Terre National Park.

116

NOT FOR KIDS ONLY Roald Dahl’s characters spring back to life at the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre in Great Missenden, a quiet English village where the author lived and worked for 36 years.

118

IRON HORSE RIDE

124

INTRO TO FRANCE

130

THE GROVE PARK INN

138

Experience a three night and four day transcontinental odyssey across 4,352 kilometers—or about 2,700 miles--’’through some of the remotest inland areas—some of the most diverse and inaccessible landscapes in the world,”

I’ve never been to Paris.” Heck, the only time I’d seen France was on a short Mediterranean cruise at least a decade back. That disgraceful lapse was remedied by joining a Vantage cruise from Normandy to Paris along the Seine.

A TALE OF 2 FOOD TOURS My favorite tour when I travel focuses on food. Oddly, at least to me, is many travelers have the wrong idea about food tours. They’re not about just stuffing your face although you do that.

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COVER FEATURE

The Amazing Journey cruising through troubled waters Story & Photography by Ron James

Camel and burror rides offered to weary walkers in front of the ancient Roman amphitheater in Petra.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Birdâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s-eye view of the Azamara Journey

“Y This is story number one about a memorable cruise with exotic ports and incredible food and drink – but first we have to get the pirate thing out of the way.

Top: Captain Jack Sparrow doesn’t have much in common with today’s Somali pirates. Courtesy Disney Studios

ou went where?” my friends said, aghast at the itinerary of our just completed cruise from Rome to Dubai through the Suez Canal. Their amazement didn’t surprise me, because we had just sailed through the waters off of Somalia -- pirate territory.

Journey Captain Johannes Tysse welcomes guests at the Chef’s French Table dinner.

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e have booked cruises through troubled

cruises have been canceled at the last minute when passen-

waters before, trusting the experience and

gers and crew were at risk - Istanbul, Israel and Egypt because

wisdom of cruise line management to make

of civil strife and Black Sea ports because of the Russian in-

prudent decisions regarding the safety of their

vasion of Ukraine. Stops at Mykonos and Civitavecchia were

passengers and crew. A number of ports on our previous

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

cancelled because of high seas. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a fact of life for veteran

cruisers -- they’ve all experienced it one time or another. They

Sea, Suez Canal, Strait of Hormuz, the Gulf of Aden and the

may be disappointed, but they know captains and the front

Persian Gulf. In the last decade, there were a half dozen pirate

office won’t take chances. It’s bad for business.

incidents involving major cruise ships in this area. In the end, no ships were boarded, and no passengers or crew on those

Travel always involves risk; savvy travelers do their best to

ships have been harmed.

minimize it. Yes we took an educated risk sailing the Red

Journey anchored just in outside thethat old we Map The showing pirate incidents the area portbe ofcruising Chania, through. Crete. Our last port WIKIpedia. before would Courtesty the ship headed to the Suez Canal.

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Cruising the Middle East

ithout exception, our fellow passengers on the Journey were unfazed by the possibility of pirates. For the most part they were experienced travelers who

were knowledgeable about ship’s precautions and had decided the risk of a pirate incident was remote on this cruise. Captain Johannes Tysse and his officers were open and candid about how they planned to minimize the pirate problem. Because they proactively and openly discussed the potential threat, it didn’t become the elephant in the room – although there was a lot of good natured chatter about it at martini time. The ship’s “Safe Haven” plan was thoughtful and comprehensive. Included was a blackout of ship at night when in sketchy waters where the Red Sea passed into the Gulf of Aden, flanked by Somalia and Yemen, and on through the Arabian Sea to Dubai. We were in the heart of pirate country. Outside decks were off limits to passengers and cabin curtains had to be closed at night. All unnecessary running lights were doused to make us all but invisible.

Top: Not a pirate -- travel-writer Ron James wears traditional Arab scarf just purchased in Salala, Oman.

The Kalashnikov Bayonet Monument which commemorates the October 1973 Battle of Ismailia.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

At one point, we stopped to pick up supplies from a boat on the Red Sea. According to fellow passengers who witnessed the transfer, we boarded several large men carrying large duffle bags. The chatter for the next couple of nights was whether the guys were Israeli or American mercenaries and what kind of weapons they carried. Fortunately we never found out. But it was comforting to know we had extra protection on board. In addition, the captain assigned crew members to serve around the ship as look-outs 24 hours a day. The passengers got into the act with a morning “Safe Haven” drill which required all guests to muster in hallways outside their staterooms, where we would be safe from stray bullets – guaranteed to ruin your cruise No passenger I met complained about these modest restrictions. Rather they praised the captain and the crew for their pirate battle plan. In the end, the pirates probably knew we were too big a risk and looked for less fearsome prey instead. Still the slight chance that we would face pirates added some spice to the cruise – and much fodder for dinnertime chats.

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The Suez Canal One reason we chose this trip was that it traversed the legendary 101-mile long Suez Canal, completed in 1859. The waterway was not only a historic engineering feat connecting the Mediterranean Sea with the Gulf of Suez, but also the first reminder that we were sailing into potentially dangerous waters. Because it is rather narrow, most of the canal is limited to a single lane of ship traffic sometime stretching 10 miles for the nine-hour transit. The Egyptian military was on alert, making sure the ships passed safely through the canal. That’s one of the reasons military installations of all types and sizes – guard towers and check-points - flank the canal. One pickup truck with armed Egyptian soldiers followed us along a perimeter road for many miles, keeping an eye out for potential threats. If there was any trepidation by passengers or crew, it didn’t show. Passengers lined the top decks observing the passage, while sun lovers lounged around the pool, enjoying snacks and drinks.

Freighter sails round the bend of the Suez Canal and a car and passenger ferry begins its crossing .

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“Guard towers and check-points were fully staffed with people with big guns every few hundred yards along the waterway.”

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;On the other side of the canal, sand dunes stretched as far as the eye could seeâ&#x20AC;?

The canal itself is not as exciting as the Panama Canal. There are no giant locks, just a big ditch cut through the desert. One side is populated by farming villages and sunbleached towns, the slender minarets of their white mosques piercing the cloudless blue sky. On the other side of the canal, sand dunes stretched as far as the eye could see. Along the way, we also passed a series of massive war memorials, placed by various governments and countries. Probably the most dramatic and foreboding was the Kalashnikov Bayonet Monument which commemorates the October 1973 Battle of Ismailia. The giant bayonet was modeled after the Russian AKM Type II Bayonet.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Top and Opposite: Journey passengers find differnt ways to enjoy the Suez Canal crossing.

The Suez Canal Defense Monument at Ismailia, Egypt. The monument was designed by the French, is 50 meters high, 240 meters long and used 4,700 tons of granite in the building.

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Petra—the Rose Red Desert City

ur first stop after the Suez Canal was the ancient port of Aqaba, Jordan’s only access to the sea. For us, it was the jumping off point to for another destination

on our bucket list - the ancient ruins of Petra about three hours away from the port. We hired Petra Nights Tours company to transport eight of us from the Journey to Petra and back. It’s a full-day’s trip through spectacular desert landscapes populated today as for thousands of years by nomad Bedouins. Having an experienced driver and guide are essential for Petra. Our guide excelled at bringing stark landscape of Jordan and the history of the Petra ruins to life. Nothing prepares you for Petra’s exotic beauty, grandeur and dramatic history. The long departed Nabataeans, an Arab tribe, created one of the greatest wonders on earth when it carved these giant red mountains into a now 2,000-year-old complex of mausoleums. You feel like Indiana Jones discovering the lost tomb as you emerge from the Siq, a giant 360 foot-high narrow red gorge, and get your first glimpse Petra’s jewel, the towering carved masterpiece called the Treasury. We walked this city of the dead, awestruck, as we took in more than 500 tombs carved into the rock -- each made to look like facade of buildings of the great civilizations. It was truly awe-inspiring. It’s also exhausting. There’s a lot of walking just to see the main ruins and Petra’s Roman-style coliseum. To see it all would take at least four days and require climbs up steep paths. The sun is intense as well, so carry water and wear sunscreen and good walking shoes. Most of us walked the mostly shady downhill path to the ruins rather than ride a horse down, an option included with our Petra entrance ticket. Horse drawn buggies down and back also are an option for folks with mobility problems. The buggy drivers obviously didn’t go to buggy driving safety school -- it looked to me that both the tourists walking the narrow road in the Siq and the white-knuckled passengers were in peril as the buggies raced recklessly through the gorge. I decided instead to take advantage of the no-thrills horse ride for the long uphill road to the entrance of Petra . Thankfully there are shops and cafes at the entrance to the Siq. Hot and thirsty, we clambered into one for a round of beers. The bill was a shock, but complaints vanished as the cold brews vanquished the heat and washed the red dust out of our throats. What lingered then and now are visions of this remarkable place.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

At Petra, came stone gorges an make up one of

els, donkeys, dramatic sandnd cliffs, and stunning ruins f the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great treasures.

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Top opposite and above: The iconic Burj Al-arab Or Arabian Tower and the modern skyline is in stark contrast to a woven hut (right) which was the common building in Dubai until the 1930s.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Dubai— From Sand to Grand

art of my childhood as a Navy brat was spent on Adak, a remote island in Alaska’s Aleutian Chain, a windblown hunk of tundra dubbed by the locals as “The Pearl of the Aleutians,” Fast forward more than a half century as I was about to visit the “Pearl of the Persian Gulf.” –Dubai undoubtedly a pearl of a different ilk. When I was a boy, Dubai resembled our Alaskan outpost – few people and a lot of sand rather than tundra.. With the discovery of oil in the 1960s, Dubai exploded into one of the most modern multicultural cities in the world, home to a population of more than 1.5 million. As our ship docked, we were greeted by Dubai’s hazy Jetsonlike skyline where the world’s tallest building, the Burj Khalifa, pierced the clouds. We bid farewell to the Journey, and spent the next three days discovering that Dubai is more than world records and consumer excess. Although it does have a lot of those. It wasn’t hard to play the wide-eyed tourist in Dubai -- we soared in seconds up 125 floors to the top of the Burj Khalifa. We window-shopped in the world’s largest shopping center and visited the giant man-made island shaped like a palm tree. We strolled through the Gold Souk with the world’s largest golden ring and with it endless rows of stores glittering with jewelry. It was grand and getting grander. Despite an unstable oil market, Dubai continues to grow, witnessed by countless giant cranes planting architectural marvels into the desert sand. We also encountered a city of hopeful immigrants, mostly from India. They had built this city. Their food, culture and enterprise enrich the fabric of life here. We strolled the narrow streets of the spice and silk markets, with tiny stalls full of exotic fare and finds. Here we felt closer to the real Dubai. This was human face of this city-- grand in its own way. As we enjoyed a small feast of Arab food in a waterfront café in the old city, we watched small wooden boats called Abras ferrying people across the waterway called the Creek. Clinking our cans of Diet Coke (no alcohol on the menu) we celebrated a perfect end to our adventure. p

Left: An upscale jeweler in the Gold Souk. Middle: Tourist shops abound in Dubai. Here’s a popular shop for cruisers selling spices, candies , t-shirts and , of course, pashminas.

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Wine, Dine & Rockâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;n Roll

CULINARY & CULTURAL EMERSION ON THE JOURNEY Story & Photography by Ron James

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“For veteran travelers, three key factors influence their choice of cruises: Safety, itinerary and cost. For me, there’s a fourth – food. ”

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Food and Beverage Manager, Stephane Carriou working the line during a special dumpling and asian food-feast. It wasn’t uncommon to see Stephane and his fellow officers serve guests at the many special meals and events on board the Journey.

or veteran travelers, three key factors influence

was that the Journey didn’t look small at all. Sleek with its

their choice of cruises: safety, itinerary and cost.

navy blue and white color scheme, the elegant ship hosts

For me, there’s a fourth – food. All four factors

some 690 passengers compared to the more than 2,500 pas-

combined in our decision sail on Azamara for the

sengers that filled ships we usually sailed.

first time on a cruise from Rome to Dubai. While the ports on this cruise were fascinating, and the food

After years of sailing today’s mega ships, we also wanted to

and drink first rate, it was the crew that made this seagoing

experience a smaller ship. Surprisingly enough, as our shuttle

adventure memorable.

from Rome dropped us off at the dock, our first impression

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Middle: One of the many bars on the Journey. And a basket of wontons and a delicate dumpling.

Above: Journey chef preparing fresh fruit available at every meal on the ship.

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Senior officers must have cloned themselves - they were everywhere – at every specialty dinner, gangway, and on-board event. It was very impressive. Within a few days, our attendants, waiters, sommeliers and bartenders knew our names, what kind of wine we liked and how to garnish our martinis. The ship’s most popular man was undoubtedly Captain Johannes, who worked his way up from deck hand starting 1983. The captain’s infectious and self-deprecating sense of humor made his daily PA briefings a must listen. Each of these comedic monologs usually ended with a running gag about his “little brother” Eric De Gray, the Cruise Director who towers over the captain by at least a foot.

Vodka martini up with three olives paired with salty peanuts and Greek olives help make the author a happy cruiser.

Fun-loving newlyweds from Germany enjoying an evening meal on the pool deck.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“The captain’s infectious and self-deprecating sense of humor made his daily PA briefings a must listen. ”

The ship’s very talented guitar playing balladeer was a passenger favorite. He also found out that he was the father of a new baby girl on the cruise.

The captain was known to surprise and delight his passengers

sent his chef and purser to buy for fresh strawberrys for short

by doing things unexpected on a large passenger ship. As the

cake that evening. And when the ship cruised through prime

ship passes a landmark or spectacle like a volcano, he turns

Scandinavian fishing grounds, he stopped so the captain and

the ship 360 degrees to make sure everyone gets a good

crew could fish for fresh catch for that evenings dinner.

look. When the ship passed a port famous for strawberries, he

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Cultural Immersions – Fascinating Feasts

oday’s sophisticated cruiser wants more from a cruise than souvenir shoppings and café lunches steps from the dock. Instead they crave experiences that connect

them to the culture and cuisine of countries they’re visiting. They want to meet locals, learn about their customs and engage them one on one. Azamara satisfies that longing with shore excursions aimed at cultural immersion. Their Cruise Global, Taste Local in-

volves guests in hands-on food discovery tours culminating in exclusive private dinners aboard ship or on shore. Their Insider Access program takes passengers to private homes, farms and the like to experience authentic local culture and cuisine. We joined in one of each while sailing on The Journey: A day with the ship’s executive chef and sommelier was spent garthering local ingredients for a masterful dining experience and a feast with a family in Muscat, Oman.

Ship’s cooks serve up great smiles with their dishes. Left: A discriminating diner gives a thumbsup for the ship’s special Rijsttafel dinner.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“Almost every day, on land and at sea, sophisticated passengers were offered a number of opportunities to please their palates. ”

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Chania, Crete, Greece: A Day With The Chef Monica espite all of its history, Chania (pronounced Hania), the

Here, we were among a fortunate few passengers who

capital of Crete, is one of those places you never plan

accompanied the Executive Chef Monica Ortiz and Som-

to visit. That was, until we started cruising. It has become

melier Tihana Glumac ashore to tour and buy provisions for

a frequent stop for Eastern Mediterranean cruises and

a special dinner accompanied by local wines. As our tour

for good reason. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the most picturesque cities in

guide led us through the ancient streets she noted that the

Greece and heaven for food lovers.

colorful architecture reflects the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s many conquerors, ranging from Byzantines and Venetians to Turks before

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Executive Chef, Monica Ortiz from Texas leads guest on a special shore excursion to buy goodies for tonightâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s feast.

The romantic port of Chania showcase the architecture of a number of its occupiers including the Turks and Venetians.

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being annexed by Greece in 1913. While Venetian architecture dominates, all of the former occupiers left indelible marks on the culture. Our tour ended at the Agora Market, a social and culinary hub of the city that housed dozens of shops selling produce, meats, spices and what seemed like infinite varieties of seafood caught that morning. We followed the chef and her “A” team of ship’s cooks into a cheese shop where we sampled cheese and olives from the local countryside before heading to the fish stalls. Chania market fish monger explains how to filet a fish.

Our tour group wandering and sampling cheeses, olives and nuts at the Chania market.

The gregarious owner proudly proclaimed that he had lived for many years in the United States, as his relatively understandable English proved. After much discussion, fish were selected, and our chef bid us farewell, heading back to the ship with their bounty. We stayed and sampled Greek specialties in one of the market cafes. Our plate of local munchies included a glass of raki, the powerful unflavored version made from grape pumice. Nasty stuff, but I could get used to it.

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Left: Chef Monica leads our group as she purchases provisions in Chania’s farmer’s market.

Above: Our guide gives our small tour group an overview of Chania. .

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Refreshed, we joined the sommelier on a bus headed out into the countryside. Vineyards and olive trees were everywhere â&#x20AC;&#x201C; no wonder Creteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s major export is olive oil, but whoever heard of Crete wines? At a stop at Anoskeli Winery, we discovered they were surprisingly good, as we sampleed six along with more cheese, olives and vine-ripe tomatoes. Our sommelier left with several bottles that would be matched to our dinner, now just hours away.

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“Crete’s major export was olive oil, but whoever heard of wines from Crete? ”

The group took a tour and sampled about six wines, cheese, tomatoes and olives at Anoskeli Winery.

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hat evening, we gathered on a corner of pool deck for

focused group. She kept things simple to showcase

our perfect big fat Greek meal, made all the more spe-

the flavors of the fresh ingredients, married perfectly

cial knowing we had joined in the shopping at port

to the local wines. Three hours of feasting and fun

and that Chef Monica was cooking just for our food-

were enjoyed before we called it a night.

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After a hard day of shopping, wining and dining, our little group of foodies gather on the pool deck for our feast made from provisions selected at the market that morning. .Food and Beverage Manager Stephane Carriou joined us for the fun.

Below: Fresh seafood was the star of our Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tour feast. Chef Monica and her senior chefs took star turns during the feast.

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Muscat, Oman: At Home With The Maamari Family

man is much like Jordan in that it is a small country

to experience the food and culture in this part of the world.

of around 4 million mostly Bedouins and a rela-

Our gracious and charismatic host was Yasser al Maamari and

tively modest country by Arab oil country stand-

his charming family. This special shore excursion, hosted by

ards. It does have small oil reserves and under

Yasser’s own tour company, Al Maamari Tours It was offered to

Sultan Qaboos, uses them judiciously to improve the country’s

a limited number of guests as a part of Azamara Club Cruises'

infrastructure, healthcare and educate their citizens who are

“Insider Access.” program which provides guests with land

mostly Bedouins. In addition to free healthcare and education

excursions travel to private homes, farms, and villas.

each Omani citizen when they reach their twenties is granted a plot of land and a home building loan

Our tour began with a tour of Muscat and the fish and produce markets, the source of most of the ingredients for our upcoming

A small group of fellow Azamara passengers had the great

feast. After the tour, our van pulled up next to a modern upscale

fortune to visit to a Omani home, in the capital city of Muscat,

stucco two story home that wouldn’t have looked out of place in

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served as a welcome to all guests who enter the household. Some of the more agile from our group sat on traditional cushions on the floor covered with Persian carpets. I decided it would be prudent if I sat on the cushioned bench, which was most likely there for westerners like me who would had to have help getting up off the floor. After, Yasser introduced his family and chatted about the customs of his country and people, we were given a tour of the home including a large kitchen. Lunch was served in a large covered area in the back of the house. The floors were again covered with carpets and there was a row of four western toilets (they knew their clientel) just adjacent to the dining and entertainment area â&#x20AC;&#x201C; on one end of the room tables full of colorful steaming food stole the show. While our driver and guide sat on the floor using their fingers to eat their meal, the rest of us opted for using traditional silverware. The traditional Bedouin meal of fresh salads, vegetables, pit-roasted fish, chicken, lamb and beef was exceptional, my hometown of San Diego. A late model BMW was parked in

perfectly seasoned with herbs and spices common to most

the driveway, a status symbol of prosperity just like the status sympols in driveways in most western countries. We were greeted by Yasser and his family; we removed our shoes and were shown into the main living room. This large

Opposite and center: Host Yasser al Maamari and his wife enjoy providing hospitality and a wonderful meal to foreign guests.

room was decorated with photos of the Sultan and a couple of rifles mounted on the wall, was most commonly used for entertaining male guests. The women had their own entertaining room where they could chat freely and let their hair down.

The Maamari family show their guests the different ways of wearing traditional Bedouin scarves.

The food began almost immediately with tasty dates and tea WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM

Middle Eastern countries. It was a wonderful gathering and by the time we were saying our farewells we all felt a well-being that comes from sharing food and drink between new and old friends. The type of hospitality, we have found, offered by good-hearted people from almost every country around the planet.

Our tour group help themselves to a variety of authentic Bedouin dishes including pit roasted marinated chicken.

Opposite: Our driver and guide enjoy the meal in traditional Bedouin fashion sitting on the floor and eating with their hands -while our group kicks back after his feast..

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

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An AzAmazing Evening

n a trip to visit our son in Jerusalem, happenstance

ingly beautiful and a little otherworldly, which is why it’s been

took us to Jordan and Wadi Rum. (We shared that

a favorite Hollywood stand-in for Mars for decades.

experience in the Summer 2015 edition of the

The sun was low in the sky as our buses from the ship

magazine.) Mary and I never thought we’d return to this

pulled into a Wadi Rum desert resort, Bait Ali, where we

Martian-like red-sand landscape even though this cruise

were led to a large amphitheater on the grounds. Young

stopped in nearby Aqaba for two days. To our surprise, we

men served charred Bedouin flat bread, being cooked over

found ourselves back in Wadi Rum, this time dancing with

fires on site, that we washed down with Jordanian craft beer

Bedouins under a full moon.

and wine. On the stage, white robed men played drums and bagpipe-like instruments that echoed into the gathering

Our return was part of an Azamara cruise signature event, its

dusk.

AzAmazing Evenings, a party ashore for everyone on board who wants to attend, at no additional cost. Our special even-

When everyone was settled, we were entertained by one of

ing, to our surprise, was magical Wadi Rum.

the country’s top folkloric groups of musicians and dancers. After several numbers, the Royal Heritage Dance Company

T.E. Lawrence, better known as Lawrence of Arabia, called

dragged the willing and not-so willing onto the stage to join

this 300-square mile desert in Southern Jordan “vast, echo-

them in traditional Bedouin dance. Arms linked, hopping

ing and God-like.” It’s an apt description of the long desert

foot to foot, in loopy circles, it was great fun dancing under

valleys punctuated by spectacular red sandstone mesas and

the stars and a full moon at a place where the camels and

peaks that change colors from dawn to dusk. It’s both amaz-

Martians roamed.

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At Wadi Rumâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bait Ali Camp guests enjoy drinking and dancing under the Jordanian sky.

Below: Ship servers make sure guests remain happy as they return from Wadi Rum.

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Azamara Journey: White Night

hen Mary first told me about Azamara’s White

tracks. White linens fluttered in the breeze as passengers in

Night party, I thought, “been there, done that. Not

white found their tables and glasses of complementary wines.

another formal affair.” Without much enthusiasm

Servers buzzed around, filling glasses of thirsty guests mo-

I slipped on my white dress shirt and my khakis, while Mary

ments after they drained the last drop. The ship’s band was

donned a neat all-white outfit – sartorially she is always sev-

already rockin’ with oldies that put smiles on every face. The

eral steps ahead of me.

ship’s band and singers, by the way, were as good as any I’ve heard land or sea. Energy streamed from that stage with cho-

On a balmy evening in the Red Sea, we made our way to the

reographed moves and killer harmonies led by uber-talented

deck above the pool. The scene below stopped me in my

cruise director, Eric De Gray.

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The Journeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crew throws an amazing party for their White Nights extravaganza. Top right: Chef Monica and F&B manager Stephane serve up crepes with homemade ice cream.

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Adding to a perfect evening was an al fresco feast second to none. Flames flared above outdoor grills as the cooks seared meats and seafood. Around them food stations offered something for every palate, including pasta, sushi, salads and cheeses. Everyone made room for dessert â&#x20AC;&#x201C; cooked to order Crepes Suzette with a boozy sauce and gourmet ice cream, served by two officers, one of whom contributed the family recipe. Sated but still ready to party, Eric led the crowd in a conga line that wound up and down stairs and all around the deck. Everyone laughed and sang along, caught up in the party spirit. Folks hugged strangers as the line broke up and passengers drifted back to their cabins. No doubt - it was a white night to remember. Left: Hotel Director Heike Bedos ladles gravy during the white nights party.

Guests enjoying a pool side cabaret.

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Never too old for rock and roll, the passengers put a move on to the jumping jive of the Journey band lead by Erik De Gray.

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Azamara Journey: The French Table

“We enjoyed so many memorable culinary events on The Journey, including a memorable evening at the Captain’s Table, that it’s almost impossible to pick a favorite. But if forced to choose, I’d pick French Chef’s Table.”

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A cheerful group at the Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s French Table Dinner.

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verything came together the night we gathered around

with seemingly endless bottles of stunning wines selected

an exquisitely set table next to the wine cellar in one

and served by sommelier Tihana Glumac. Starters including

of the shipâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s specialty restaurants. Our group of ardent

lump crab salad with Hass avocado and citrus dressing and

foodies was joined by affable food and beverage manager

calabaza and goat cheese ravioli in sage brown butter sauce

Stephane Carriou for this celebration of The Journeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best of

were followed by mains like pan seared halibut with sweet

the best - cuisine, wine and service.

butternut squash puree, artichoke aioli and crab meat fuille. Surf and turf was also on the menu -- beef tenderloin and

The three-plus hour meal was planned and executed by Exec-

broiled lobster with garlic fondant potatoes, asparagus and

utive Chef Monica Ortiz and her top sous chef and matched

caramelized shallot veal jus.

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Left: Chef Monica chats with guests about their upcoming French dinner.. Below: Steak tartar and tasty trio for dessert. Opposite middle: savory scallops floating in a savory citrus sauce.

Opposite top: Captain Tysse visits our table to make sure everything was fine. It was! Opposite bottom.: Our sommelier selected seven very nice wines to go with dinner. We went through more than one of each.

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The End Of An Amazing Trip Of The Tongue

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Our happy ending was a nougat praline cheesecake with maple gelato. As they say in France, Oo lala that was some awesome grub. As we neared Dubai, we knew our adventure was drawing to a close. The exotic ports were all enchanting; the pirates, thankfully, were a no-show â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and the hospitality, food and drink exceeded all expectations. It was all we hoped for and more -- It was a truly amazing journey. p If You Go With only two ships, and a big percentage of return cruisers, Azamara cruises fill up quickly, so book well in advance. https://www.azamaraclubcruises.com/

Journey passengers experienced a gourmet adventure one would expect from a Michelinstarred restaurant. This spread of photos illustrates the beautiful presentations we expereinced, including stuffed quail eggs, smoked salmon with caviar, lobster bisque, pasta bar and assorted Asian desserts.

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Rethinking Beaujolais By Robert Whitley

Georges and Franck Duboeuf

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eorges Duboeuf, now 83, is old enough to remember

“We have this modern place to do traditional wine,” said

when Beaujolais was the French wine of choice for

Emeric Gaucher, Duboeuf’s chief winemaker as we walked

many, if not most, American wine drinkers.

through the sprawling state-of-the-art Duboeuf complex here in Romaneche Thorins. Gaucher oversees a complex network

Light and fruity, absent aggressive tannins, it was the perfect

of independent growers and winemakers as well as properties

bistro wine. But the American wine scene has shifted substan-

owned outright by Duboeuf.

tially since Duboeuf began pedaling Beaujolais in 1964. Sales in the U.S. have slipped as

“We have 100 contracts, and the

much as 40 percent over

biggest of those have 10 hec-

the past decade, prompting

tares,” said Gaucher.

Duboeuf to switch importThe popular perception of

ers recently.

Duboeuf, considered by many But if the U.S. market has

to be the king of Beaujolais and

changed, so too has Beaujolais, where Duboeuf oversees a

certainly the largest Beaujolais exporter to the United States,

vast network of small growers and independent winemakers.

is that all of those independent grapes get dumped into one giant vat and out comes one generic Beaujolais. The reality

The Beaujolais region is located at the southern tip of the

is that each of the plots that come in at harvest are vinified

Burgundy region, closer to Lyon than the epicenter of the

separately.

Burgundy wine trade in Beaune. The grape of the Beaujolais region is gamay, which hardly commands the level of rever-

“It would be so easy to make just one wine,” Gaucher says

ence accorded pinot noir and chardonnay, which are dominant

with a laugh. “The fact is, because we have only one variety,

throughout the rest of Burgundy.

gamay, everything ripens at the same time. Different elevations give us different levels of maturity, but the entire harvest

Duboeuf and other producers from Beaujolais have struggled

is typically over in three weeks.”

to overcome the perception that gamay is lesser than pinot noir, and toward that goal they have made a point to demand

Duboeuf pays its growers using a formula that includes

more of the gamay grape by treating it with greater respect.

weight, but also adds quality to the equation. One way

Lower yields have boosted quality, and improved technology

Duboeuf tracks quality is its commitment to keeping plots

has paved the way for Beaujolais wines that are more intense,

separate prior to blending.

with greater fruit purity and the ability to improve with age, though the worthiness of Beaujolais to age likely will never

“Before we finalize the blend, Georges needs a selection of

approach that of pinot noir from its neighbors in Burgundy’s

many different cuvees,” said Gaucher. “We have some villages

Cote d’Or.

that give us wines that are more full-bodied, some that are

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more delicate. Georges tastes and he decides. Maybe he says 70

“It is both a blessing and a curse,” said Romain Teyteau, who

percent of this one, and 30 percent or that one. We want to be able

manages exports to the United States. “It accounts for about

to show the diversity of the gamay grape.”

half the Beaujolais sales for the year, so the growers and the winemakers have some money in the bank very quickly after

In addition to the wines it produces from purchased grapes,

harvest. They like that.

Duboeuf purchases a substantial quantity of wines made at individual domaines, even bottling and marketing some of the finer

“But it creates the misperception that all Beaujolais is quite

domaines separately.

simple and fruity. We hope that once someone tastes a cru Beaujolais, they will realize that it is a step up.”

Those that are not bottled separately are either blended into the Duboeuf Beaujolais Villages or, for the finer domaines, the Beaujo-

Bolstering the argument is the 2015 vintage that is now in the

lais Crus. The Beaujolais region has identified ten villages that have

marketplace. It is a spectacular vintage for Beaujolais, produc-

historically demonstrated unique characteristics combined with

ing superb wines through all the tiers. Georges Duboeuf him-

consistently high quality. Those have been awarded “cru” status by

self has called it the finest Beaujolais vintage since he became

the government and typically sell at a higher price than Beaujolais

involved with Beaujolais in 1964.

Villages (a blend of wine made from multiple crus) of the simple Beaujolais AOC, which is the lowest classification in the district.

While that might be open for debate, the fact remains the Beaujolais wines of 2015 are splendid by any measure. Across

Duboeuf is banking on crus Beaujolais, because of its character-

the board`they exhibit deep color, richness and depth com-

istics that are distinctive from village to village, to re-ignite interest

mon only in the finest vintages, and many of the crus Beaujo-

in Beaujolais and reverse the sales trend in the United States.

lais clearly possess the structure to age for five to ten years, a

Countering the perception of Beaujolais among U.S. wine drinkers

trajectory that defies the conventional wisdom.

is complicated by the relative popularity of Beaujolais Nouveau, which is the earliest bottling of the most recent vintage in Beaujo-

I dropped in on Duboeuf recently to taste some of the wines

lais.

from this heralded vintage was impressed with the consistency from top to bottom. In consideration for space constraints, I

The Beaujolais Nouveau is released to great fanfare each November.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

have kept my tasting notes on these wines brief. p

Tasting Notes

erality with superb underlying fruit and persistent length. Rating: 90.

Wines are rated on a 100-point scale. Wines are chosen for review because

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Morgon, Jean

they represent outstanding quality

Ernest Descombes, France ($22) – This

or value, and the scores are simply a

elegant wine is suave and refined, with

measure of this reviewer's enthusiasm

a fleshy texture that doesn’t hide the

for the recommended wine.

fact that it has a strong thread of minerality. Rating: 91.

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Beaujolais Villages, France ($12) – Dark color with

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine des

a broad, expansive palate and supple

Quatre Vents, Fleurie ($22) – This femi-

tannins. Rating: 88.

nine cru shows gorgeous, supple red fruits with a hint of wood spice. Rating:

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine des

92.

Pontheux, Chiroubles ($20) – Wonderful floral note, with hints of raspberry

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Chateau de

and an elegant mouthfeel. Rating: 92.

Saint-Amour ($22) – This Saint-Amour is among the most elegant from the cru,

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Brouilly ($20) –

with exceptional intensity of color and

Intense red-fruited palate with modest

flavor and a touch of minerality Rating:

tannins and a long, persistent finish.

90.

Rating: 90. Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine du Riaz, Cote-de-Brouilly ($20) – Lighter

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Chateau des Capitans, Julienas ($22) – Big, rich and spicy, this is among the most muscular

and leaner than other wines from the

and powerful Beaujolais you are likely

vintage, this was a mineral-driven

to find. Excellent potential for aging up

Beaujolais that is a good prospect to

to ten years. Rating: 94.

improve over the next two to five years. Rating: 89. Georges Duboeuf 2015 Morgon ($20)

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Moulin-a-Vent ($20) – A stunning wine that exhibits richness and depth, with complex red

– Meaty and intensity, with a beautiful

and black fruit aromas and a striking

core of red and black fruits and a richly

note of white pepper spice. Rating: 94.

textured palate. Rating: 91. Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de Javernieres, Morgon Cote du Py ($20) –

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Domaine de La Vigne Romaine, Moulin-a-Vent ($25) – Meaty and bold without sacrificing

One of the stars of the vintage, showing

elegance, with intense red and black

exceptional depth, with bold fruit flavors

fruits and a touch of wood spice, this

and a touch of minerality. Excellent po-

is perhaps the most sophisticated and

tential to age up to ten years. Rating: 94.

compelling Beaujolais I have tasted

Georges Duboeuf 2015 Morgon Cote du Py ($22) – At this stage lean and a bit tight, showing a strong note of min-

from this vintage. Rating: 95.

Gérard Charvet Owner and Winemaker of Moulin-à-Vent Domaine des Rosiers using a wine thief to barrel sample wine.

Follow Robert on Twitter at @wineguru. . Opposite: Display of Domaines & Château of Cru Beaujolais

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PATHS OF WONDER GUIDED HIKES ON THREE HAWAIIAN ISLANDS SHARE SECRETS AND STORIES Story and Photograph by Priscilla Lister

s Kawika Foster, the 51st gen-

eration to teach

LA-va) Valley lies in one of the most

ancient Hawaiian

spectacular tropical forests on the

For Halawa (pronounced Ha-

traditions in Molokai’s Halawa Valley,

planet. It was one of the first locations in

guided us through this verdant natural

the Hawaiian Islands where Polynesian

wonder, he encouraged us to be abso-

explorers established themselves in the

lutely present -- mind, body and soul.

7th Century, since the amphitheater-like

He called this the “sacred teaching of

valley that slopes to the sea is back-

aloha.”

dropped by two enormous waterfalls in

Few places in the world are

the towering cliffs.

more suited to savoring such com-

plete connection.

Valley for five years, ever since I’d met

I had wanted to hike Halawa

Anakala (Uncle) Pilipo Solatorio, now 77, the 49th generation of traditional teachers here who was born and raised in this valley.

I knew Halawa Valley remains

private property and hikers need permission and a guide to take them on the trail to Moaula Falls. With Kawika (pronounced Ka-VEE-ka) as my guide, the hike was far more culturally enriching than going in alone.

I met him at the end of the

Kamehameha Highway, one of only three main roads on Molokai, all of which are just two lanes. The last few miles of Kamehameha Highway pare down to just one lane that hugs the edge of the rocky coastline, making the

Sun filters through the bamboo forest on the Waimoku Falls trail near Hana, Maui.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“Few places in the world are more suited to savoring such complete connection.”

Mouflon sheep gaze back from Garden of the Gods on Lanai

road to Hana on Maui seem like a walk in the park by comparison.

Under the pavilion at the end

of the road I joined a few others along with Kawika, who prepared a ho’okipa, a gift to present to Pilipo, as part of the protocol for our hike into Halawa. With a grapefruit wrapped into a package of ti leaves, “the gift can be anything,” he told us, we walked down the private road. Kawika then blew into his conch shell to announce our arrival, as visi-

Molokai’s underwater reefs are a stunning attraction on this island.

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WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“I get emotional, full of the spirit of Halawa,” tors here have done for centuries.

Pilipo chanted back to us, “E

komo mai,” meaning welcome. “If you didn’t get that welcoming chant, you turned around,” Kawika told us.

Pilipo and Kawika then pressed

their foreheads and noses together in a traditional hello. “As you breathe, you share aloha, the breath of life,” Kawika said.

of these self-sustaining people is shared and preserved in oli (chants), mo-olelo (stories), hula (dance) and huna (secrets). “You don’t speak, you listen,” Pilipo said about his calling. “It’s not easy.” While he left at 16 to join the U.S. Navy and traveled the world, he came back “and grew to appreciate what I have here.”

Pilipo chose his son, Lawrence,

to carry on the teaching tradition. But none of Lawrence’s children wanted the

Aloha, we were to learn, means

tough job. There are 68 land owners in

more than just hello or goodbye in Ha-

Halawa Valley, 65 of whom are related to

waii. It also denotes love, kindness and,

Pilipo and Lawrence. But only 10 people

evidently, life.

are permanent residents.

Pilipo gathered us into his

Kawika Foster, born and raised

comfortable classroom where he often

on Oahu, discovered Pilipo, Lawrence

greets groups of local school children

and Halawa in 2007 and knew he

as well. “I get emotional, full of the spirit

wanted to become Lawrence’s student.

of Halawa,” Pilipo said as he choked up

Kawika made a lifetime commitment to

while talking story about his home.

the learning that summer, under the full

moon on Kawili Beach at the mouth of

Born and raised here, he was

chosen by his ancestral kupunas (elders)

the Halawa Valley.

“to teach, to feel the spirit,” he told us.

Handed down only orally, the knowledge

es that have been dated to 650 A.D.,

He took us past the taro patch-

Kawika brings an offering to Pilipo to begin the hike in Halawa Valley on Molokai.

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now restored and thriving. Crossing a stream, we continued

birth, he said. They would stay here alone for days before the

on a well-worn trail lined the entire two miles to the falls by a

baby was born, and then all would gather to celebrate. Near

lava rock wall dating from the 10th century.

the end of the trail were the ruins of a temple that once stood

The river has been dammed for centuries so a canal

35 feet high in seven tiers of lava rock.

brings water to the taro patches. “If anything is wrong with

the water in the taro patch, something is wrong in your life,”

ing tropical forest painted in virtually every shade of green,

Kawika said.

where philodendron leaves are the size of windshields and

As we hiked to Moaula Falls, we passed by several

other points of interest, thanks to Kawika pointing them out. One area of lava rocks was the place where women gave

One of a couple of stream crossings in Halawa Valley on Molokai.

Madisen Rogers, 10, follows Kawika as he guides us on the trail in Halawa Valley

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Breathtakingly beautiful, Halawa Valley is an amaz-

mango trees stretch well over 100 feet high with trunks wrapped in twisting vines.

The two waterfalls at trail’s end are “the reason peo-

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“Few places in the world are more suited to savoring such complete connection.” ple settled here,” Kawika said. Moaula

Falls, a 250-foot cascade, is the only

development has been held at bay by

one visitors are shown. The 500-foot

its resolute 8,000 residents, I stayed

Hipuapua Falls is so hard to reach, “we

at the only hotel on the island, Hotel

wouldn’t be able to get visitors out.”

Molokai, that also acts like the island’s

When we reached Moaula

Falls, some of us jumped into its 150-foot-deep pool. It is said the pool is so churned with bubbles, it’s like swimming in champagne.

While on Molokai, where major

living room. Locals and visitors gather here for live music in the outdoor bar and restaurant every night. “Music is a way of life on Molokai,” the hotel’s charming general manager, Michael Drew, told me.

Aerial views of Halawa Valley on Molokai present stunning beauty.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Indeed, on the road to the Kalaupapa Overlook Trail,

It turns out Kukui Air’s pilot, Gene Ferguson, was born

I stumbled upon the Na Ohana Hoalo, a group of locals who

in Escondido, California, near my hometown of San Diego.

gather on the porch of Coffees of Hawaii to play traditional

When their last child was off to college, he and his wife moved

Hawaiian songs on Sunday afternoons.

to Hawaii. “We tried Kauai and the Big Island, but when we came

Hotel Molokai is about the only gathering place on

the island. One night I met a videographer from L.A. who was shooting from a small plane the next day. He checked and since the plane was a four-seater, I could go along.

here, we just sighed. It felt like home,” he told us. That airborne view of the dry west side and wet east side of Molokai, including Halawa Valley, made for a serendipitous thrill.

Back on the ground, the trail to the Kalaupapa OverWINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM

look is a short, easy stroll to a stunning

guiding business two years ago leading

vista of the peninsula made famous as

adventurers around Maui, Kauai and the

a colony for victims of Hansen’s Dis-

Big Island.

ease (leprosy) who were banished here beginning in 1866. While the disease is no longer the scourge it once was, a few elderly people remain in that settlement to live out their lives. It was made a national historic park in 1980.

You can hike up and down the

strenuous 3-mile trail to Kalaupapa that features 26 switchbacks down a 1,600foot vertical cliff to the sea, or you can ride mules down that trail, which I did those five years ago.

The overlook was enough for

me this time. Also at that overlook trail head in Palaau State Park is another short trail through pine-like ironwood trees to Phallic Rock, a sacred place to Hawaiians.

The one hike I wanted to do

but couldn’t this time on Molokai was in Kamakou Preserve, a rainforest with more than 200 species of native plants. The Nature Conservancy leads monthly guided hikes there, but the waiting list is long so reserve one of the few spots months ahead (www.nature.org).

I flew from Molokai to Maui for

my next hiking adventure in Hana.

At the Travaasa Hana, the new

“I show people places they

wouldn’t find on their own,” he told me. He’ll plan everything, including accommodations, transportation and hiking. “I cater to fitness levels too, from (Kauai’s) Na Pali Coast to easy strolls.”

I had hiked the trail to

Waimoku Falls nearly 20 years ago, and really wanted to experience again its other-worldly bamboo forest along the way. But indeed, Wade added an extra adventure I didn’t even know existed.

“We’re meeting a guide from

the Kipahulu Ohana (family) that manages taro fields in the national park,” Wade told me. “He’ll take us to a spot not all visitors see, where there’s a lot of cultural history.”

Ka’uiki (pronounced Ka-WEE-

kee) Lind was our local guide. His parents, John and Tweetie, started the Kapahu Living Farm here in 1996. “Our greatest ancestor was a high priest to King Kamehameha,” Ka’uiki told us. “We’re still living on his land.”

Beautiful land it is. The 2-mile

hike to Waimoku Falls does pass through that bamboo forest, where the sun barely filters through the thick

incarnation of the much loved hotel on

stands of poles that sound like wind

that eastern end of the island that start-

chimes in the breeze. Beyond the

ed as Hana Ranch and then became

bamboo, the trail continues through a

Hotel Hana Maui before it took its latest

verdant rainforest where wild ginger,

name, I met Wade Holmes, my guide

giant ferns and gargantuan guava trees

to Waimoku Falls in Haleakala National

flourish. Those guava trees spread their

Park. Holmes, recommended to me by

sinuous roots all over that trail, making

a friend who lives on Maui, owns No

it sometimes slippery from the heavy

Ka Oi Adventures (Is The Best). Origi-

moisture always present.

nally from Rochester, N.Y., Wade went to graduate school at the University of Hawaii in Honolulu in ethnobotany, the cultural uses of plants. He started his

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Since I’d spent the night in

Hana, we could get an early start that next morning, because “by noon this place is packed,” noted Wade.

“Our greatest ancestor was a high priest to King Kamehameha,” Ka’uiki told us. “We’re still living on his land.” Chip and Polly Wade cross a stream near the end of the trail to Waimoku Falls.

Left: Wade Holmes guides us through the bamboo forest on the Waimoku Falls trail near Hana.

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“I get emotional, full of the spirit of Halawa,”

Both Wade and Ka’uiki pointed

out lots of beautiful plants along the way, sharing their longtime uses. Wade pointed out the hau, a native hibiscus shrub that was used to make the original grass skirts. Ti leaves are often used today.

Ka’uiki showed us the papala

passion fruit, guavas, mangos and berries.

The afternoon before the hike, I

visited Kahanu Garden in Hana, a national tropical botanical garden that offers a self-guided tour with a pamphlet that identifies each plant and its traditional uses. But I went with Travaasa Hana’s

kepau. “The sticky substance from the

Ululani Kala, who was born and raised in

outside of the seeds was used to catch

Hana, for a personal tour of the garden,

birds for collecting feathers; it wouldn’t

an activity offered by the hotel. She also

kill the birds,” he said.

teaches lei making and is

The feathers were used

an impressive expert at

to make capes for

that beautiful craft.

chiefs.

“It’s not true

“There are 25 types of

‘canoe’ plants here, which

there are no snakes

were the plants the Poly-

in Hawaii,” Wade also

nesians brought 2,000

told us. “There is the

years ago,” she told me.

blind ground snake. It’s

small, like a big worm,

the site of the Pi’ilanihale

and it won’t hurt you.”

Heiau, a national historic

Leading us

landmark believed to be

down an alternate trail

the largest ancient stone

not many people can use, we wound up at the Kapahu Living Farm where taro patches have been cultivated to perpetuate the tradition that is so integral to Hawaiian history.

Ka’uiki handed us whole coco-

The garden is also

temple in Hawaii. It is dated to around 1200 A.D.

That hau tree is an especially

interesting plant. “In the morning, its flowers are yellow but by evening they turn reddish. It’s our clock, our curfew.

nuts he had pierced so we could drink

You’d better be home by the time the

their thirst-quenching juice. And he had

flowers turn red,” she said.

prepared a feast of local fruits, including Bougainvillea reflects in the koi pond at the Lodge at Koele where a black-crowned night heron fishes.

Opposite: Ka'uiki offers a fresh berry on the trail to Waimoku Falls in Haleakala National Park past Hana.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

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After two nights in Hana, I

drove early to beat the crowds on that road to Hana back to Lahaina, where I caught a ferry to Lanai.

An island of just 3,000 people,

Lanai is physically very different from all the other Hawaiian islands. It’s dry, with no creeks or streams and just 14 inches of rain a year compared to 400 inches on Maui. The long-view landscape is unlike anyplace else in Hawaii.

A ranch from about 1850 to

1922, Lanai then became a Dole pineapple plantation until the early 1990s, so some 98 percent of it has been privately owned for a long time. David Murdock of Castle & Cook recently sold that 98 percent to Larry Ellison, CEO of Oracle.

I stayed at the Four Seasons

Lodge at Koele, one of my favorite hotels anywhere. It’s one of two Four Seasons on Lanai -- the other being the seaside Manele Bay, now called Four Seasons Resort Lanai. Currently, the Lodge at Koele is closed for extensive renovation while Manele Bay’s remodel has been recently completed. The Lodge at Koele is slated to reopen in late 2016.

There is also the classic and

more modest Hotel Lanai, which is currently distinguished with an outstanding restaurant operated by Bev Gannon, a local celebrity chef on Maui renowned for her Hali’maile General Store restaurant in Upcountry.

I had been to Lanai years ago

to do some horseback riding from the

Signs point the ways in the tiny town of Lanai City.

Opposite: Bruce Harvey shows the way to Sweetheart Rock on Lanai.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Lodge at Koele, and then I had rented a

tive -- unlike anyplace else in Hawaii.

We were both transfixed, as were the

car to drive some of its back roads. But

“George Munro, ranch manager here

sheep, who stood a distance away just

this time I didn’t need to rent a car since

in 1911, brought them all in as moisture

watching us, too.

I was hiring guides to do the heavy

grabbers,” Bruce told me. “One pine can

driving -- on some of those dirt roads

absorb 1,200 gallons of water a month.”

that may as well be flights of stairs. With

Before the pine trees were planted, La-

frequent shuttles between the Lodge

nai had serious water shortages being

at Koele, Manele Bay, and Hotel Lanai

in the rain shadow of Maui, he said.

which sits in the middle of the tiny town, no car was needed. The concierge at the hotel can arrange any guide for you.

“This is Hawaii like it was 60

years ago,” Bruce Harvey of Rabaca’s Limousine and Off-Road Tours told me. Born and raised on Oahu, Bruce moved to Lanai in 1997 as a single parent raising a young son.

“There are just 30 miles of

paved road on Lanai, no stop lights, no fast-food chains, and 100 miles of dirt roads,” Bruce said.

The Cook Island pine trees

make Lanai’s landscape very distinc-

Bruce drove me around the

island to some favored hiking spots, including Keahiakawelo, or Garden of the Gods, and Shipwreck Beach.

Garden of the Gods features

I was, of course, shooting them

with a camera. But on Lanai, hunting is very much a way of life and source of food, and the sheep are one of the targets, along with axis deer, wild turkey, quail and pheasant.

On Shipwreck Beach, where

the first documented ship went down in 1824 and a 1950 tanker erodes today on a coral reef, we saw deer and turkey

lots of lava rock formations scorched

tracks on the sand -- not your usual

by ancient volcanic eruptions, set in

footprints on a beach. This 8-mile-long

an alien landscape where the iron-rich

beach is the stuff of dreams -- no peo-

soil seems to be painted a deep rust

ple, just sand, shallow turquoise waters

color. “There is too much sulfur in it for

and views across the 9-mile channel to

vegetation,” Bruce said.

Maui.

All of a sudden, a flock of

Bruce also took me to Sweet-

young Mouflon sheep ran across the

heart Rock, up a short trail just beyond

road and into those amazing rocks.

the Manele Bay hotel, but still a place not

“That’s a very rare sight,” Bruce told me.

many visit. The arched rock is named for

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the legend of two lovers who died here.

The next day I hired Steve Gela-

koski, a local hunting and outdoor guide, to show me more trails. The Minnesota native who married a local Lanai woman has guided hikers here for 30 years.

He took me to Kaunolu Village,

King Kamehameha’s favorite summer

GETTING THERE: Fly from San Diego to Molokai via Honolulu or Maui. Several carriers fly directly to Oahu from San Diego, including Hawaiian Airlines. We flew Island Air between islands once in Hawaii.

You can rent cars on each

island.

fishing retreat, one of the most impressive

FERRY SERVICE: Lanai is reachable from

archaeological sites on Lanai. “It was a city

Maui via ferry; www.go-lanai.com. The

of refuge when Kamehameha took over

Molokai-Maui ferry was discontinued in

the island,” Steve said. “He loved this point

October 2016. Lanai ferries leave from

because of the fishing, and spent over 20

658 Front Street in Lahaina, Maui; five

summers here.” Rock remnants of a heiau,

times a day.

still in use in 1819 (the year King Kame-

STAYING THERE: Hotel Molokai, 1300

hameha died), as well as Kamehameha’s home site are still there.

We hiked up to Kahekili’s Leap

here, a sheer drop-off that stands 63 scary feet above the water. Also called Warrior’s Leap, Kamehameha’s elite warriors would prove themselves by leaping that 63 feet into the rocky waters. I declined.

At Koloiki Ridge, which is a

5-mile round-trip hike from the Lodge at Koele, we saw one of those axis deer hiding in the ironwood trees below. “Diplo-

Kamehameha V Highway, Kaunakakai, Hawaii 96748; 808-553-5347; www. hotelmolokai.com Travaasa Hana, 5031 Hana Highway, Hana, HI 96713; 808-248-8211; www. travaasa.com/hana. Four Seasons Resort Lanai; 855-4020139; Lanai City, Hawaii 96763; www. fourseasons.com. HIKING GUIDES: Arrange your guided hike in Halawa Valley through Hotel Molokai, or www.halawavalleymolokai.

mats from China gave deer to Hawaii’s

com.

King Kamehameha V in 1867,” Steve told

Contact Wade Holmes, No Ka Oi Adven-

me.

tures, through his web site, http://nokao-

He also explained those deer

iadventures.com. His phone is 808-256-

tracks on the beach. “At a super high

2803.

tide with a full moon, during the low tide

Rabaca’s Limousine and Off-Road Tours,

that follows the water seeps out into the

Lanai; 808-565-6670. Owner Neil Ra-

ocean,” he said. “The deer have only a

baca moonlights in a local band that plays

45-minute to one-hour window to drink

at the Four Season occasionally.

that water, and they know they can get it only at that low tide.”

www.huntlanai.com.

From the top of Koloiki Ridge,

we could see both Molokai and Maui.

Steve Gelakoski, Lanai, 808-649-0028;

Signs point the ways in the tiny town of Lanai City.

It was a fitting farewell to my hik-

ing adventures on these three wondrous islands. p

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Steve Gelakoski ponders Kahekili’s Leap on Lana.

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The Shot of a Lifetime

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s one of the most photographed sites in the Southern Caribbean and the Grenadines, Tobago Cays.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

By Judy Garrison Photography by Seeing Southern

“E

veryone is doing it,” reverberated inside my head. “Just

jump.” In front of me, sloshing waves of crystal blue chlorinated water rolled endlessly within its concrete cage while behind me, boys in cut-off blue jeans shouted taunts which cemented

avoiding any scenario that included

my bare feet to the ground.

water, jumping into it or riding upon it. Today, I feel that familiar sense of angst

“Chicken,” they jabbed.

I lowered my head, moved

to the back of the line, and confirmed within my soul, “Yes, I’m chicken.”

Water terrified me, but en-

during scorching Georgia summers required some amount of water, but for me, at least none that would cover my face. Holding my breath without physically holding my nose, well, that was impossible. And if you fingersqueezed your nose, kids laughed, and that was worse than any possible drowning. So for the remainder of my childhood, I watched from the shallow end as my friends bounced from one side of the pool to the other, jetting to that elusive diving board at its remote end where I dare not go - flying, soaring, plummeting all in a singular surge.

radiating up my neck, slicing my breath into short spurts. There’s a launch moving toward me from open waters as I stand motionless on the small wooden pier at Grenada’s Port Authority. If I squint, I can see the S/V Mandalay anchored far out in the bay. I must board the approaching bobbing wooden boat and migrate trustingly out to sea. No barriers. No fixed sides. No safety nets, only boys in cut-off blue jeans shouting inside my head.

Sailing the Caribbean was

however, for my husband it was a dream. As photographers, travel became about getting that one, great image. This was no different. I just had to get on location without hyperventilating first.

three-foot marker.

the rapid-fire of horns scream “Out of

That was 1965, and I became

an expert at evaluating situations,

“... I became an expert at evaluating situations, avoiding any scenario that included water, jumping into it or riding upon it.”

never on my list of travel adventures;

I, on the other hand, remained at the

The island of Carriacou is known as the Land of Reefs and is home to about 8,000 people. Visitors arrive from Grenada which is about a 90 minute ferry ride, which runs daily.

It’s Sunday in Grenada, and

the way” as the impatient bus drivers fly through the tiny snake-like, vertical streets of downtown St. George’s.

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Just yesterday, it was market day at Market Square; it was

tion of its power. An older man makes eye contact and imme-

overflowing with people, moving among stalls and makeshift

diately a request follows: “Ma’am, come let me show you my

tables lining the center of the street, buying and selling. Hands

spices.” What these people make today might feed a family

of freshly picked bananas, pungent spices like ginger and

for a week, so I buy, regardless of need or want.

saffron; mounds of sweet potatoes, cocoa, coconuts; carved jewelry from black corral.

Today is much slower than yesterday, so I let the

memory consume me. The bay breeze balances the rising

“Would you like my necklace,” a young girl asks,

holding it closer, as she begins to piece together an explana-

Away from Port Elizabeth in Bequia, the winding streets climb along beautiful coastlines to the Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

temperatures and burning sun. It is a beautiful spring day on the Spice Isle as I step slowly onto the launch.

She comes closer. Now, a massive 236-feet cruis-

“Leave all your things. We will get them to you,”

ing schooner, but the once Hussar, then Vema, now S/V

shouted the launch’s two crewmen. Passengers stand and

Mandalay carries with her an impressive maritime legacy as a

move toward the steps, ascending onto another set. I watch

research vessel and war-time training ship. Approaching, her

carefully where feet and hands are placed, plotting my de-

massive posture eases my impending transfer as the main-

parture. I stand and catch my breath. My angst reappears as I

land becomes dimmer. The launch pulls alongside, bouncing

reach for the two handles on either side of the steps. As both

off her sides until ropes are heaved and tied to secure her

feet are on the top step of the tender, I realize the next one

position.

will be onto the ship.

At the end of our week aboard the S/V Mandalay, saying goodbye to the crew was like saying so-long to family. Every want, every need was met with a smile. Also, they provided strong hands to those (like me) who doubted their sea legs.

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“Left hand on red handle,” the crew repeated. I

grabbed the red handle with my left hand, and as I reached upward with my right, a stout dark hard of mammoth strength engulfs mine, pulling me up toward the top rung. The next moment, I felt wood beneath my feet and a sigh escape my lips. Had I fallen, he would have scooped me up in an instant. Each day, the crew would raise the masts to the sounds of “Amazing Grace.” No matter where you were on the vessel, it became your invitation to be inspired..

mind. With one touch, Blaze had silenced those boys in cutoff blue jeans whose voices had teased me all these years.

It was the rhythmic flapping of the masts that told we were on the move.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“I’ve got you,” Blaze said defiantly. From that mo-

ment forward, water, other than its beauty, never entered my

Over the course of the next six days, I stepped on

and off the launch, island hopping, on average of four times a

day. We unaccustomed sailors are on a very loose schedule— island time according to the ship’s steward—everything is in …ish time, fiveish. Once I learned to balance my coffee cup in the morning—“keep one hand on the ship, one hand for your liquor,” they tell us—, story time with the Captain was revealing as he disclosed the day’s destination. Many of our day’s jaunts landed us on uninhabited stretches of beach in this Southern Grenadine island chain, requiring a wet landing from the launch.

I didn’t flinch. Blaze was there.

Every isle was movie-scene perfection, nothing but

It was on Sandy Island that I found utter solitude. Just a short distance from Carriacou, this small strip of sand became a respite for sailors and explorers and natives of the Grenadines.

a stretched out towel, sun peeping through the palm trees,

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WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

and the occasional inquisitive iguana – and of course, MashUp, the ship’s steward, who came ice-chest ready with local Carib beer for the heat weary. The untouched, natural habitat of these postcard beaches did more to unplug me from reality than a spa experience ever could.

Other excursions took us to ports—like Carriacou or

Canouan—where locals hastily surrounded us upon disembarking, hoping we’ll choose them to lead us around their country. Most memorable, our stop in Beguia, the northernmost island of our journey and our Captain’s homeland. We depart and board the back of a truck-turned-tourist sightseeing vehicle and hold tightly as it hurriedly climbs the narrow roads to the ruins of Hamilton Fort. From our birds-eye view, the bay is dotted with sail boats on a sea of blue-green water,

Approaching the S/V Mandalay by launch proves even more impressive that eying her from a distance. Right: Augustine Pollard, model boat maker, proudly reaches for his model and welcomes all who visit his shop in Bequia. The pride of all the boat makers is written on their faces and in their work.

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and in the distance, the Mandalay. Vendors are there as they

transformed into a workshop. Out back, gumwood shavings

are at every stop on every island, sharing their jewelry made

littered the dirt, while small sculpted shells of various sizes

of coral or bags made from flour sacks. I offer the man $5

which will be crafted into hulls lined the work bench. Inside,

East Caribbean currency for the flour sack, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re off. At

a man sits at a vice or a table, carving, painting, turning wood

the opposite end of the island is Old Hegg Turtle Sanctuary,

into replicas of elegant sea vessels. Large hands consuming

a haven for sea turtles since 1995 when former skin-diving

miniscule components. In the window, a grand replica of the

fisherman Brother King turned his passion into a turtle home.

Mandalay; throughout the shop, hundreds of ship clones in their beginning, middle and end stages. Leader of this single-

Heading back to into Port Elizabeth, down a short

minded pack, Augustine Pollard watches his craftsman as

driveway we stop at Sargeantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Model Boat Shop, where

he walks through the studio, posing at the drop of a hat for

10 men are bunched in what was once a small home, now

cameras capturing their masterful artwork.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

This is more than a model boat shop, but a narrative

and delivered her “must see” list as she served callaloo and

of the people of the Grenadines. This is my shot, my image

conch. Mandoo navigated the snake-like Grenada roads,

to take back home. This universal portrait began evolving

introducing us to smilin’ Charlie and his yellow and green

long before I stepped inside the boat shop. There was Randy

painted roadside tire collection. Onboard, there was Collin

who persuaded two travelers at the taxi stand that he was

and Captain Austin, Mash-Up and Chef Boston and other

the city’s favorite son and guide; come to find out, he was. He

blue-shirted crew members who hoisted sails and steered

introduced us to Danny, the sunshine salesman, who carved

launches.

necklaces from black coral and never missed a Saturday market day. At Blue Horizons Garden Resort on Grenada, we ate

And of course, Blaze. Of all the moments, in all the

every meal with Allison; she shared her love for her country

ports, I will remember him most. Sadly, his shot is the one shot I did not take. I was too busy holding on. p

“This is my shot, my image to take back home. This universal portrait began evolving long before I stepped inside the boat shop.”

The Sargeant Brothers Boat Shop in Bequia is one of several shops on this small island. Some consuming as three months work time, the workers construct every model by hand. They carve replicas of vessels that have made their way into Port Elizabeth. In their window, a replica of the S/V Mandalay.

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Treasures of

Japan “Tokyo was a whiz-bang whirl – and taught us immediately the value of tours guided by locals.”

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

“ In true Japanese style, we savored the art of relaxation – joining locals at a long stone trough to soak our feet in steaming orange-scented mineral water from local hot springs.”

Talk about a grand entrance. Story & Photos by Alison DaRosa

s our small bus rumbled up the highway to Mount Fuji, we were suddenly envel-

ioned record player. It was a magical

Treasures” tour. Our group of 11 started

moment – one of many during my first

out in Tokyo, visited Hakone, Kanazawa

visit to Japan.

and Kyoto. Most of us signed on for an optional three-day post trip to Hiro-

I went alone – sort of. I signed up for a

shima.

small group tour with Overseas Adventure Travel, a company that’s a favorite

Tokyo was a whiz-bang whirl – and

of solo travelers: It doesn’t charge a sin-

taught us immediately the value of

We were on one of Japan’s musical

gles supplement. (Availability is limited,

tours guided by locals. Native-born

roads – paved with precise grooves that

so book sooner than later.)

Hiroko (“Hiro”) Rokuhara was our guide

oped in the sound of music.

cause wheels to vibrate and emit sound into the vehicle, much like an old fash-

throughout the trip. She went way beI chose OAT’s 14-day “Japan’s Cultural

yond the call of duty – not only escort-

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ing us through museums, temples and gardens (often accompanied by local curators, priests or chefs with insider expertise), she provided personal insights and lots of one-on-one time, enabling each of us to pursue our own interests.

The Hakone Open Air Museum... was a serene oasis for mind and body.

In Tokyo, Hiro took several of us to her favorite Ginza department store, Mitsukoshi. After pointing out the couture of top Japanese fashion designers, she introduced us to the basement food court and its cornucopia of delicacies – including clumps of perfect green grapes that sold for a mind-blowing $100 or more. Once we’d purchased our bentobox lunches, she led us to the 9th floor garden – where locals go to indulge in their edible treats. For dinner on our last night in Tokyo, Hiro took us to a small restaurant I’d never have found had I been on my own. It had no sign and was on a street with no name. A small lantern with discreet Japanese lettering, set low near its entryway, was the only indicator we had found Takiguchi. Inside, Hiro introduced us to owner/chef Yugu Takiguchi – and an exquisite multi-course Japanese meal. One of the joys of visiting a frenetic international capital like Tokyo, with its bustling metro population of 14 million, is escaping it. We headed for higher ground: Hakone (pronounced Ha-Kone-Nay), 50 miles west of Tokyo. It’s surrounded by mountain forests, lakes, healing hot springs and offers irresistible views of Mount Fuji. It’s where many Tokyo residents go for respite.

The Hakone Open Air Museum perfects the art of relaxation. Visitors can soak weary tootsies in a steaming mineral water footbath.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

There was no respite, however, when

But for most of us, the best part came

we arrived at the touristy mid-way

near the end of our visit, when in true

(Fifth Station) of Mount Fuji. Instead of

Japanese style, we savored the art of re-

tranquility, we encountered a frenzied

laxation – joining locals at a long stone

bazaar of souvenir shops and a 20-min-

trough to soak our feet in steaming

ute line at restrooms.

orange-scented mineral water from local hot springs.

The Hakone Open Air Museum, on the other hand, was a serene oasis for mind

OAT had billed our Hakone hotel,

and body. It includes more than 120

Kagetsuen, a traditional Japanese style

masterpieces by modern and contem-

ryokan. It wasn’t – at least not for us.

porary sculptors from throughout the

We slept in western style beds in rooms

world – each placed strategically on

that reeked of cigarette smoke and were

a vast swath of manicured lawn and

long overdue refurbishing. The sex-

gardens surrounded by lush forest. We

segregated communal baths were more

saw the world at a heady “La Pleureuse”

dank and depressing than serene. On

angle, climbed the “Symphonic Sculp-

the brighter side: We wore our provided

ture,” (a steel and stained-glass tower

yukatas to a multi-course traditional

by Gabriel Loire), saluted “Miss Black

kaiseki dinner at the hotel – and it was

Power” by Niki de Saint Phalle – and

superb.

enjoyed the wonder of kids discovering installations such as Peter Jon Pearce’s

The next morning we were off to Kanaz-

“Curved Space - Diamond Structure.”

awa – where we explored gardens and

We were awed to find the world’s largest

art museums, met geisha and visited the

collection of Henry Moore sculptures.

homes of locals.

“La Pleureuse” (the mourner) by Claude and Francois-Xavier Lalanne is among larger-than-life sculptures at the Hakone Open Air Museum.

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Lady Baba gives visitors insights into her nearly two-century-old Kanazawa teahouse, Kaikaro - and the arts and traditions of its geisha.

Kenrokuen Garden has been the heart and lungs of Kanazawa for more than two centuries – and is today considered one of the most beautiful gardens in all of Japan. It is serene, spacious and meticulously groomed. (Twice a week caretakers use bamboo brooms to sweep stones at the bottom of ponds.) Among young Japanese, it’s a favorite setting for engagement and wedding photos. Geisha (called geiko in Kanazawa) have been performing for nearly two centuries at Kaikaro ochaya (teahouse). When we visited, owner Baba Hanako (or as she calls herself, “Lady Baba”) was our guide. She is gracious, beautiful – and a savvy businesswoman, helping keep the geiko tradition alive by overseeing selection and training of new recruits. “They must be elegant entertainers,” Lady Baba explained. “They are musicians, dancers, singers, poets.” Sex is not part of the equation, she insisted. “That is a Western misconception.” Still, she took us into the “VIP Room” with its gold tatami mat – and a “secret staircase for clients who don’t want to be seen entering or leaving.” Why not? ‘”They’re having business meetings here they want to keep private,” she said. There’s lots of free time scheduled on OAT tours and because groups are small (maximum 16), tour leaders are eager to help those want to peel off and explore on their own or with other like-minded travelers.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Once a shogun’s the retirement villa, the Golden Pavilion in northern Kyoto is today a Zen Buddhist temple. Also known as Kinkakuji, it was rebuilt in all its gold leaf splendor after a fire in the early 1950s.

In Kanazawa, I played hooky for a day with Geri Markowitz, an educator at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. With guide Hiro’s help and a bus pass, we visited the very cool 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. We were disappointed when we arrived at the city’s famed Noh Theater to find it closed – but that’s when serendipity kicked in. We ran into the theater’s director who personally escorted inside and invited us to sit in during an afternoon rehearsal. Later, at Kanazawa’s Noh Museum, we giddily talked of our unexpected treat – and were treated to more: We got to play dress-up. Museum aides outfitted each of us in traditional Noh shozoku – layers of heavy intricately embroidered kimonos, elaborate headpieces and classic masks. Home visits are a highlight of most OAT tours – and mine didn’t disappoint. I met with Kanosaku Nakagawa, a Kanazawa Rotary governor. He was welcoming and frank. A recent widower, he spoke of his arranged marriage (it lasted 50 years) and about Americans dropping the A-bomb on Hiroshima (“the biggest fault in history”). We shared tea, sweets and remembered deceased ancestors with a prayer at the Buddhist shrine in his home. He graciously gave me a Japanese calligraphy lesson – then translated what I wrote: “I have a dream...”

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Kyoto served as Japan’s capital for more than a millennia and

region’s most popular sites. We took selfies standing in front

remains its capital of art and design. It’s a feast for the senses

of the gold leaf-covered retirement villa of Yoshimitsu, one of

– whether you’re inhaling incense at one of the city’s 1,700

Japan’s more prosperous shoguns. We hiked under hundreds

Buddhist temples, sampling sushi or sake at Nishiki Market,

of vermillion torii gates that line a trail that winds up Mount In-

hearing the clomp of wooden clogs on cobblestones in the

ari. On a warm afternoon in nearby Nara, we explored Todai-Ji

Gion district or caressing a ceramic teacup for your first taste

Temple, an ancient Buddhist complex, where deer are revered

of matcha.

and roam free, with no fear of humans. Kids love the place.

We had five days in Kyoto – enough time to take in the

One day, Markowitz and I teamed up to find the “Museum

Nishiki Market is known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen.” It’s a colorful five-blocks-long wonder lined with more than 100 foodrelated shops.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

on the Mountain.” Our quest involved a train ride into the

The museum was the dream of the late Mihoko Kayama,

countryside, then an hour-long local bus ride into the Shiga

founder of the Shumei spiritual movement and one of the

mountains. We were awed by what we found.

wealthiest women in Japan. She asked Pei to build “paradise on earth” to house her extensive personal art collection. Her

The little-known Miho Museum was designed by architect I.M.

aspiration: “Art that would reach into people’s hearts and

Pei, carved into a rocky, forested mountainside, with 80 per-

inspire them to beauty and virtue.”

cent of its structure underground. Pei called it his Shangri-La.

A polished concrete tunnel leads throught a mountainside to one of Japan’s least known architectural gems: The stunning Miho Museum, designed by I.M. Pei.

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Visitors approach the museum on foot via a sleek polished-

We took our time wandering the Miho. At noon we stepped

concrete tunnel that cuts through a mountain – and is sound-

outdoors to hear the carillon that echoed from the nearby

proofed, to clear the mind. They cross a graceful, geometrically

Misono bell tower, also designed by Pei. We shared exqui-

ingenious bridge suspended across a lush green ravine. The

sitely presented small plates at the museum Tea Room, where

light-filled contemporary glass and steel museum opened in

everything served is locally grown “beautiful food that is good

late 1997 – but few, even among Japanese, seem to know of

for you.” We were enveloped by the spiritual serenity of the

it. It draws only about 100,000 visitors a year. (It’s closed in

place – a Japanese poem of art, architecture, nature, even food

winter, from December through mid-March.)

and wine. We savored every stanza. p

Fine dining in Japan is about art, ceremony and exquisite tastes. Seafood is common, often served raw as sashimi or in sushi.

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

IF YOU GO Getting there: Two-week Japan Cultural Treasures tours with

affordable spot for stocking up on bottled water (about $1). A

Overseas Adventure Travel run about $4,600 per person, includ-

bottle of decent Chilean wine runs about $5.

ing roundtrip international airfare from Los Angeles. Supplement-free rooms for solo travelers are limited; check online for

Heading to Tokyo on your own? Sign up for a free volunteer

availability. Learn more at www.oattravel.com.

guide at www.tokyofreeguide. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Heading to Tokyo on your own?

Know Before You Go: Larsonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s convenience stores are a good,

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HIROSHIMA where our hearts were broken

By Alison DaRosa

Meeting with a bomb survivor gave us a

went to the school gate – but saw that

whole new perspective.

all of the houses that used to be there had disappeared.”

iroshima was the last stop on our trip. It was where our

Tomiko Matsumoto was 13 years old,

hearts were broken. Most

at school less than a mile from ground

Matsumoto, who was 83 when she met

of us grew up learning that

zero, on the day the bomb fell.

with us, remembers her agony and an-

the atomic bomb dropped on Hiroshima was a necessary evil. It brought about the end of World War II and saved countless American and Japanese lives.

100 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

guish: “I was so badly burned that when “There was a strong orange light, then

I put my hands to the back of my neck,

suddenly everything became dark,”

the skin came off. As the sun came up

she recalled as our guide interpreted. “I

the pain became unbearable, but I did

crawled out from under the rubble and

not have the courage to jump in the river

as so many others did. “I could not figure out what was happening to us.” Tears fell as this frail, bent woman recalled more horrific memories – the sounds of strangers begging for help, the excruciating pain of maggots crawling in her wounds, the smells of decaying flesh. Hiro, our guide and interpreter, was the first to break down – probably because she was the first to hear Matsumoto’s words. Matsumoto’s mother was killed outright by the bomb. Her brother was never found. Her father survived – but killed himself on the third anniversary of the bombing. “Until then, I always thought I would survive,” the old woman remembers. “That’s when I regretted surviving.” Matsumoto says she still suffers every day from bomb fallout. There have been illnesses. Physical and emotional scars clearly remain. “But I want to thank you for coming Genbaku Dome, clockwise from left, was the only structure left standing near ground zero after the atomic bomb was dropped on Hiroshima on Aug. 6, 1945. Today, Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park has monuments and museums built near the skeletal remains. Hiroshima Castle, destroyed by the bomb, was rebuilt in 1958 and now serves as a history museum.

all the way from the United States to visit Hiroshima,” she said. “Seventy years have passed. Still, I suffer. I hope this kind of weapon will never again be used on this Earth. “Together, we must transmit a message of peace.” p

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101

A Feast for the Senses Hiking Italy’s Cinque Terre Trails Story & Photography by Amy Laughinghouse

While most wine produced in Italy’s Cinque Terre is made from white grapes, Prima Terra’s Cerico, a blend of Grenache and Syrah, proves a tasty exception.

The UNESCO reserve, established in 1999, encompasses more than 9,500 acres and connects five of the Italian Riviera’s most picturesque coastal villages:

ngelo Celsi must run

the tour operator Tourissimo—that his

the most lucrative

brother used to run the stand. When he

lemonade stand on

died, Celsi took over. “I’m more success-

the planet. Despite his

ful,” he says, passing a parched, sweaty

isolated location on a

hiker a plastic cup. “Maybe it’s my look,”

dirt trail on Italy’s northwestern coast,

Celsi smiles, fluffing his snow white

an estimated 2.5 million people passed

beard before posing for a photo with a

through this area last year.

trio of French girls.

That’s because this isn’t any old

While the trails nearest the park’s

dusty path. It’s part of 120 miles of

borders outside the villages can be rela-

undulating trails that flit through pine-

tively peaceful, the path from Monter-

scented forests, flirt with postcard

osso to Vernazza where Celsi has set

panoramas of the blue Ligurian Sea,

up shop teams with a steady stream of

and snake alongside terraced vineyards

hikers from around the world on this

as they crisscross the Cinque Terre

sunny afternoon. I eavesdrop on fellow

National Park. The UNESCO reserve,

Americans, Brits, and Australians, many

established in 1999, encompasses more

of whom seem surprised at the ardu-

than 9,500 acres and connects five of

ousness of the trails.

the Italian Riviera’s most picturesque coastal villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. As Celsi juices lemons and oranges

“They really need to work on these stairs,” one young American grunts as he descends stone steps gouged from the hillsides. “And by stairs, I mean, they need an escalator.” The Aussies,

harvested from his own orchards, the

meanwhile, have paused for a beverage

wiry octogenarian explains through

at a scenic overlook, where one hiker

my guide—Beppe Salerno, founder of

checks their progress on his iPhone.

Italy’s Monterosso al Mare is the only town among the Cinque Terre’s five villages with a long, sandy beach.

All Photo

102 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

os Copyright Amy Laughinghouse.

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103

“We’ve only been at this for 17 minutes and 30 seconds,” he

Tourissimo, which launched in August 2015, offers biking

grimaces, casting a desperate glance at the incline that awaits

and walking tours primarily in Beppe’s native Italy. “But the

him.

cycling and hiking are not the central point,” he insists. “It’s how we move from one cultural experience to the other. We

According to Beppe, who has worked as a guide since

want our clients to meet the locals, talk to producers, have

2000, “Somebody who is in shape could do the whole trail

time to just enjoy. Every day, there should be at least one

between the villages in two days, but it’s better to take your

‘Tourissimo experience moment.’”

time. Hike a bit, then visit a village, do a boat ride, have a wine tasting.”

Beppe Salerno, the founder of Tourissimo, negotiates a rocky trail along Italy’s Cinque Terre coastline.

Hikers walk along a narrow section of trail between Monterosso and Vernazza. It’s one of the busiest paths in Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park.

104 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

This slower-paced approach, emphasizing the Cinque

Terre’s wine-making heritage, seems to be exactly the sort

Mateo Perroni, Head of the Environment and Biodiversity

of tourism that park officials hope to encourage, while at the

Office, meets me at park headquarters in Manarola to explain

same time they’re struggling to cope with wear and tear upon

what this means for the future of the Cinque Terre. Dressed

the most popular coastal trails. In 2016, media reports stating

in a T-shirt and shorts and sporting a cloud of wild, curly hair,

that the park was considering limiting visitors to 1.5 million per

he spreads out a map on a meeting room table, pointing out

year made headlines around the world.

where the park has installed electronic heat sensors to monitor footfall on the trails.

Park president Vittorio Alessandro has since insisted that his staff are merely examining ways to manage tourism.

In future, officials hope to use this data to inform visitors

A trail along Italy’s Cinque Terre coastline offers a view of Monterosso al Mare’s old town and its beach.

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105

how many hikers are on particular paths “in real time,” and

the hills more prone to rock falls and landslides, which caused

encourage them to walk during off-peak hours, such as before

the closure of the coastal paths from Corniglia to Manarola

11 AM and after 4 PM in

and the Via Dell’Amore from

the spring and summer.

Manarola to Riomaggiore.

The park already requires So really, I reason, I’d be

walkers to purchase a “trekking card” to access

supporting both the vinicul-

the coastal paths, with the

tural community and tourism

option to buy a “Treno MS

by tucking into some Cinque

card” which also provides

Terre wine. Fortunately, Touris-

passage on the train that

simo’s seven-day Cinque Terre

runs from Levanto to La

hiking tours are like a movable

Spezia and stops at all five

feast, offering ample opportu-

Cinque Terre villages in

nities to sample local libations

between. Only two of the

and regional food specialties.

towns on this line—LevanToday, Beppe has ar-

to and Monterosso—sport broad, sandy beaches, so

ranged for a private tasting at

hiking remains the main

the Vernazza Winexperience

draw.

following our three-hour hike. Emerging from the trail, we curve around a boat-filled

“The aim of the Cinque Terre card was, okay, you

harbor and climb labyrinthine

don’t want to pay? You

stairways flanked by sunny-

can walk from one village

hued houses and shops,

to the other along higher

finally emerging on a clifftop

trails (through the vine-

terrace overlooking the coast.

yards), which are more Here, sommelier Ales-

representative of our cultural heritage,” Perroni

sandro Villa greets us with

says. “Because our trails

bubbling glasses of Prosecco

were not born for hiking

and fresh-baked focaccia,

and recreational tourism.

followed by a bottle of Cinque

They were built to serve agriculture and assist communica-

Terre Vendemmia 2015 white wine, made from the area’s

tion between villages and the vineyards. So we should obtain

classic combination of Bosco, Vermentino and Albarola. This

double benefits. One, we reduce the number of visitors on

is served alongside surprisingly “un-fishy” salted anchovies,

the coastline, and two, we increase income to maintain and

eaten with bread and olive oil in the traditional Ligurian way.

restore the trails and give support to farmers.” While the Cinque Terre’s towns are typically touted as “fish-

We finish with savory hunks of parmesan cheese, washed down with golden Sciacchetra from Riomaggiore. “This is our

ing villages,” they were, in fact, chiefly populated by wine pro-

precious sweet wine,” Villa says, noting that the grapes must

ducers before hiking tourism took over in the 80s. As more

be hand-sorted. “From 100 kilos of grapes, you obtain only 20

and more vineyards have been abandoned, the stone walls

or 25 liters of this wine. Normally, we drink this only on special

supporting the terraced vines have begun to crumble, leaving

occasions.”

Alessandro Villa runs Vernazza Winexperience, where guests can try a variety of Italian wines, including those made in Italy’s Cinque Terre.

106 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

As we wine and dine, Villa, a native of Vernazza, remi-

by train, cars, boats. I remember ships coming from Portove-

nisces about life before tourism. Up until about 1980, he says,

nere, La Spezia, Levanto, and two or three new restaurants

“I was playing football all day on the main street. There was

opening at the same time. My mother closed all the windows,”

nobody!” ‘

he smiles, explaining that, among the older generation, there was a “fear of strangers, fear of people arriving by the sea,”

The Cinque Terre wasn’t even accessible by highway until

dating back to a 15th century Ottoman invasion of Italy.

the mid 20th century, and the first visitors that Villa remembers were mainly “intellectuals coming on sailing boats” in

As for Villa, he welcomes visitors with open arms. “Agricul-

the 60s and 70s. “During the 70s, the first women without

ture is very hard, and there’s no money,” he says with a shake

dresses also arrived,” he says, referring not to ladies in shorts,

of his head. “So instead, tourism! Money, more easy, fun, and

but nudists. “Vernazza was very Catholic and conservative. A

beautiful women,” he grins. “But in the 60s and 70s, they

woman without a dress, it was

would stay one or two weeks. Now,” he sighs, “maybe they

a shock.”

stay one or two hours.”

“After 1970, there was a new wave of tourists, arriving

We would love to linger longer ourselves, but a boat awaits in Vernazza’s harbor to whisk us off for a swim in the clear

At Vernazza Experience in Vernazza, Italy, try salted anchovies in olive oil paired with a white Cinque Terre wine.

Sciacchetra, the Cinque Terre's most precious wine, looks like port, but it's less sweet and more fresh and acidic.

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107

azure water. While our dip is refreshing, I’m equally entranced

So early the next morning, we find ourselves in Riomag-

by the views of the coast. I marvel at the stubborn determina-

giore, slogging uphill along the main street and onto a steep,

tion that must have been required to carve the vineyards and

forested footpath, serenaded by cicadas. “Up until 50 or 60

villages into those high, haughty cliffs that tumble down to

years ago, the people here were so isolated,” Federica says.

the sea.

“They had only boats and trails.” This path, she explains, is an old religious route leading to the Santuario di Montenero,

Federica Luppi, a Tourissimo guide who worked on de-

which we glimpsed yesterday, and judging from the shrines

signing this tour, points to a lone church perched atop a green

festooned with grapes and fresh flowers along the way, it’s

slope. “That,” she says, “is where we’re going tomorrow.”

still used by pilgrims today.

Walter De Batte of Prima Terra winery in Campiglia, Italy aims to produce Mediterranean wines that reflects the terroir of the Cinque Terre.

Brightly painted buildings in Riomaggiore, the southernmost of Italy’s Cinque Terre villages, lead up from the coast into the steep hillsides.

Young vines high up in the Cinque Terre hills give hope that this Italian region’s winemaking tradition will continue.

From the Santuario di Montenero, hikers are rewarded with panoramic views of Italy’s Cinque Terre coastline.

108 WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

When we finally arrive at the church, I’m gasping, not only

Prima Terra winery in Campiglia, a hilltop town so quiet, a dog

from exertion, but at the panoramic view of the coastline.

doesn’t hesitate to claim a shady spot in the middle of the

Here, we pause to break bread—a trio of focaccia varieties

road. De Batte, who greets us at the 19th century stone barn

purchased at Panifico Rosi in Riomaggiore—before continuing

that serves as his bottling and tasting room, bears a world-

on through vineyards staked with young vines, an encourag-

weary resemblance to Robert De Niro, with a halo of gray hair

ing sign that some stalwart winemakers are carrying on the

framing a suntanned face and the sleeves of his shirt rolled

Cinque Terre’s agricultural traditions.

up at the cuffs, ready to do whatever needs doing.

We meet one of those individuals, Walter De Batte, at

While De Batte produces a maximum of 8,000 bottles a

Before the railway was built in the 1870s, Italy’s Cinque Terre villages--including Corniglia, pictured here--could only be accessed by boat or by trails. Today, a special permit is required to operate boats within the Cinque Terre Marine Protected Area.

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109

year, there’s no shortage of work. He

IF YOU GO

employs just two other people year round, plus three or four more during

For Tourissimo’s Magnifica tours, visit:

the harvest, when everyone pitches

www.tourissimo.travel/magnifica-tours

in to handpick the grapes scattered across his 8.5 acres, most of which lie

Cinque Terre National Park: www.par-

within the park.

conazionale5terre.it/Eindex.php

As we gather around a creaking table in the barn, surrounded by stainless steel vats and metal wine racks, De Batte explains, through Beppe, that his goal is to make a truly Mediter-

Vernazza Winexperience: www.cinqueterrewinetasting.com Prima Terra winery: www.primaterra. it/en/

ranean wine which expresses the dry, rocky soil and the influence of the sea. He achieves this by allowing the grape juice to steep with the skins—an unusual process for white wine—for up to a week. “The skins carry the terroir,” he says. “If you take them away, you lose too much.” We sample three vintages, including two whites: the floral, citrusy 2015 Carlaz, made from 100 percent Vermentino grapes, and the bolder, heartier 2012 Harmoge, combining Vermentino, Bosco and Albarola. My top pick, though, is the 2011 Cerico. In this region of primarily white wines, it stands out as a rich red blend of Grenache and Syrah. I purchase a bottle to take home with me as a liquid All Photos Copyright Amy Laughinghouse.

reminiscence, a corked encapsulation of Italy’s dramatic and challenging Cinque Terre coast.

110

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

Eighty-year-old Angelo Celsi, one of just 4,000 residents within Italy’s Cinque Terre, sells freshly squeezed lemon and orange juice along one of the park trails. He also produces his own wine and lemon-based liqueur.

Colorful boats bob in the harbor of Vernazza, Italy.

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111

Not For Kids Only AUTHOR ROALD DAHL ON CENTER STAGE By Carl H. Larsen

The exterior of the Roald Dahl Museum and Story Center.

t’s hard to find a good piece of bogtrotter cake. Unless, that is, you’re in the Cafe

Twit at the Roald Dahl Museum in Great Missenden, England, about an hour northwest of London. Oh, and what a cake it is -- similar to chocolate fudge with layers of spongy

112

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

cake and a creamy chocolate icing. You may remember Bruce Bogtrotter, for whom this divine confection is named, as the young boy at Crunchem Hall school who stole a piece of cake from the school’s fearsome headmistress, Miss Trunchbull, in Dahl’s classic 1988 book “Matilda.” As the mischievious and subversive author writes: “He thinks he’s got away

“Mr. Twit was a twit. He was born a twit. And, now at the age of sixty, he was a bigger twit than ever.” ~ Roald Dahl, The Twits. with it, but the Trunchbull is not one to

Granny with young girl next to Dahl poster with spider.

Dahl’s “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory,” audio bookcover. Courtesy Penquin Books..

Besides “Matilda,” a favorite musi-

take such insolence lightly. She devises

cal playing in London’s West End and

a very particular punishment for this

on Broadway starting in March 2017,

slightly greedy young boy -- and the

and “Charlie and the Chocolate Factory”

whole school are invited to watch.”

now playing in London and bound for Broadway, Dahl’s works can be seen on

Seemingly these days, there’s no

film as well as on stage.

getting away from Roald Dahl characters such as the Trunchbull, the Oompa-

Hollywood in 2016 released a

Loompas and the great chocolate-mak-

Steven Spielberg movie adaptation of

er himself, Willy Wonka.

Dahl’s personal favorite, “The BFG,” and fans of the late Gene Wilder will always WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM

113

remember his starring role as Willy

250 million books. September 2016

greatest authors of children’s literature

Wonka in the 1971 film, an adaptation of

marked the 100th anniversary of Dahl’s

from the 20th century.

Dahl’s “Chocolate Factory” that returned

birth. The English-born writer, who died

in 2005 with Johnny Depp in the lead

in 1990, today ranks alongside Harry

role.

Directed by his literary estate, events

Potter creator J.K. Rowling of Britain,

coinciding with the centennial are be-

America’s Dr. Seuss (Theodor Geisel),

ing held around the globe. The New

There’s a reason for this renewed

Sweden’s Astrid Lindgren, and Canada’s

York Times wrote: “The goal ... is wildly

interest in an author credited with selling

Lucy Maud Montgomery as among the

ambitious: to have every child in the

Portrait of Roald Dahl courtesy Carl Van Vechten - Van Vechten Collection.

114

WDT MAGAZINE WINTER 2016

world engage with a Roald Dahl story.”

Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre

chair he sat in while composing stories,

The newspaper reported there are 23

in Great Missenden, a quiet English vil-

shunning a desk because of an old war

television, film and stage projects in

lage where the author lived and worked

injury. Most surprising is the fact that

development, “as well as a Dahl-themed

for 36 years.

Dahl didn’t type. He wrote on American

invention kitchen and book-inspired apps.” That is all well and good. But most vividly, Dahl springs back to life at the

legal pads, using pencils. Among the Taken from his nearby home, Dahl’s

mementos in the hut is a ball made of

backyard writing hut is a prime attrac-

chocolate candy wrappers he shaped

tion, with nary an item missing since he

as a young boy-- and a hip bone, re-

last wrote there. There’s the big easy

moved from him during surgery. You can step into Miss Honey’s classroom from “Matilda,” explore the cockpit of a Gladiator to learn about Dahl’s role as a World War II pilot in the Royal Air Force and examine that particular lexicon created by Dahl known as gobblefunk, used by him in his stories.

Among Dahl creations: Lickswishy: “A lickswishy taste or flavour is gloriously delicious” Phizz-whizzing: “If you like something or someone” Wondercrump: “Wonderful or splendiferous” Snozzberry: “A type of berry you can eat” Scrumdiddlyumptious: “Food that is utterly delicious” Flushbunking: “Makes no sense whatsoever”

Trying out Roald Dahl’s Writing Chair in the replica writing hut

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A great outing for children, particularly those between six and 12, the museum also holds up well for adults in presenting the many faceted and complex life of Dahl, an author who dwelled on the dark side. Visitors learn about Dahl’s work as a writer of macabre

“A person is a fool to b only compensation is has no master except am sure, is why he do

short stories for adults, some appearing in The New Yorker and Playboy. One of his best known stories is “Lamb to the Slaughter,” which was adapted for TV. In it, an unfaithful husband is beaten to death by his wife with a frozen leg of lamb. When police arrive to investigate, she offers them the lamb for dinner, eliminating the murder weapon. Dahl’s heroic service early in World War II as a pilot and ace for the RAF also make a good story. Suffering from injuries in a crash, he was dispatched to Washington, D.C., as a military aide in the British embassy. A dashing young officer in uniform, he soon became quite a ladies’ man among the city’s upper crust, attending endless cocktail parties and dinners with executives and politicians. But in reality, he was a spy for the British government, reporting home to Churchill on FDR and on American intentions and capabilities. Not much of a student, Dahl’s days in boarding school also are explored. He was born in Cardiff, Wales, of WelshNorwegian parents. Experiences in boarding school gave him much of the material for his later stories. The Dahl story also is picked up in Cardiff. There, it focuses on the Norwegian Church Arts Centre on Cardiff Bay, where his family and the city’s Norwegian community worshipped--and where he was baptized--and on his neighborhood candy shop, which became a Chinese carry-out restaurant. A blue plaque marks the storefront where Dahl, as a boy, would stop by to buy sherbert suckers and licorice bootlaces. In his autobiography, Boy, he described the store owner as “a small skinny old hag with a moustache on her upper lip, little piggy eyes and mouth as sour as green gooseberry.” It was here that Dahl once put a dead mouse in a candy jar, getting him into a world of trouble with his school head-

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Story session on the Roald Dahl Museum’s fourth birthday.

become a writer. His absolute freedom. He his own soul, and that, I oes it ~ Roald Dahl

master. Still, the candy shop outside Cardiff is remembered as being the inspiration for some of his stories. The museum in Great Missenden also has put together a series of walks through the town and surrounding countryside going past places with strong connections to Dahl, who is buried in a nearby churchyard. His first wife was the American actress Patricia Neal. At the village post office, letters to Dahl from fans still arrive. At one time, he was receiving 4,000 letters a week. In response, in 1986 he wrote a poem to school children, sent to classes around the world.

“Dear children, far across the sea, How good of you to write me. I love to read the things you say When you are miles and miles away. Young people, and I think I’m right, Are nicer when they’re out of sight.”

With his quick wit, his sometimes dark and brooding personality and never-boring exploits, Roald Dahl’s life is a treat to explore, for those of any age. It’s um-possiple, as Dahl himself would say, not to be impressed. p

If You Go Norwegian Church Arts Centre, Cardiff. www.norwegianchurchcardiff.co.uk/ Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre, 81 High St., Great Missenden, England. A 40-minute train ride from London’s Marylebone Station and then a short walk. www. roalddahl.com/museum Visit England: www.visitengland.com Visit Wales: www.visitwales.com VisitBritain: www.visitbritain.com

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The Great Australian

Iron Horse Ride Outback Adventure on the Indian Pacific: One of the World’s Exotic Train Journeys

By Sharon Whitley Larsen

tres—or about 2,700 miles--’’through

“B

some of the remotest inland areas— e sure to take plenty of

some of the most diverse and inacces-

reading material!”

sible landscapes in the world,” pointed out the train guidebook. The 65-hour

That was the advice I

excursion would take us on the world’s

received from several

longest stretch of straight-as-an-arrow

helpful Aussies when I told them that

railway track—nearly 300 miles—over

my husband, Carl, and I had booked

the Nullarbor (Latin for “no trees”) Plain.

the Indian Pacific excursion train from Perth (on the Indian Ocean) to Sydney

When we arrived at 8 a.m. at the Perth

(on the Pacific—hence the train’s name).

Railway Station, I had plenty of read-

It’s a three night and four day transcon-

ing material packed in my carry-on. We

tinental odyssey across 4,352 kilome-

checked in at the outdoor kiosk, where

The Indian Pacific is one of the world’s greatest train journeys. Photos courtesy of Great Southern Rail

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The Indian Pacific travels through the Australian Outback, covering some 2,700 miles between Perth and Sydney. The cozy compartments are a great place to ride and relax.

our large luggage was tagged and piled with others on a trolley to be stored in a separate baggage car during the journey. As a small band played and passengers sat munching on goodies and sipping coffee, once boarding was announced at 9, we all excitedly jumped up, heading to our gleaming stainless steel car. Train-nut Carl and I had booked Gold Class (there’s also the more superior and expensive Platinum) for about $2,000 each--and soon found our charming air-conditioned compartment, which, to my happy surprise, included a w/c—and shower! (And nice toiletries.) At first we thought the price was a bit steep—until we realized that it included all drinks (including fabulous local wines and beer) and cooked on board gourmet meals—as well as off-train journeys through the remote Outback towns. Our attendant, Olivia, graciously welcomed us and pointed out some perks of our cozy compartment, including an attendant call-button, in-room safe, and various music channels: classical, jazz, blues—as well as journey commentary. “There’s no

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WiFi,” Olivia explained. “Even if we had it there’s no connectivity” along a line with few inhabitants. Yes, we’re certainly going to be in the Outback, I thought. But that’s okay! We brought books! Olivia gave us tickets for our off-train bus excursions—and explained that the best time to spot wildlife was when they were most active: early in the day or prior to sunset. (Alas, only Carl saw three kangaroos one morning at breakfast.) Olivia pointed out the kitchenette at the end of the car—where we could help ourselves to coffee or munchies—and took our lunch reservation: 12:30 in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant Car (7 p.m. for dinner). She explained that when we were at dinner she would convert our lounge seat into bunks—and showed us how to adjust the blind on our large picture window. If I needed a hair dryer, I’d have to borrow (and return) one from the lounge car. Once the train departed, I hung the “Do Not Disturb” sign on the door and settled in by the window to read the “Welcome On Board” book left on the small table—with bottled water—for us.

The Platinum Club (top) offers a formal dining option for the Platinum Service riders. The Queen Adelaide Restaurant Car serves Gold Service passengers.

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“There would be over 200 passengers on our train of 30 cars—stretching out as far as we could see.” “You’re about to embark on one of the

Explorer Lounge for a drink and to meet

world’s greatest rail adventures—an epic

fellow passengers, who sat on comfy

transcontinental journey stretching from

chairs and sofas by picture windows—a

the Indian Ocean to the Pacific shores,”

bar and bartender at the end of the car.

I read.

At the other end were shelves of books and board games—but I never saw

Operated by Great Southern Rail, the

anyone take any: they were too busy

Indian Pacific was inaugurated in 1970.

chatting and meeting new friends.

There would be over 200 passengers on our train of 30 cars—stretching

We met a few Brits—and numerous

out as far as we could see. Our first

Australians, who had taken the Indian

terra firma stop would be that even-

Pacific several times. A trio of London-

ing at 9:30—until nearly midnight--in

area university classmates—retired

the late-19th century gold rush town of

teachers, now living in Italy, England,

Kalgoorlie (today home to the Super Pit

and Australia—had hooked up here for

mine—the historic ‘’’Wild West’ town of

a 42-year reunion.

pioneers, fortune hunters and colorful characters,” touted the train brochure). I

At 12:30 our names were called and we

was looking forward to our stop at the

followed the attendant to the next car—

“ghost town” of Cook—with a popula-

the classy Queen Adelaide Restaurant

tion of only two! (The couple who lives

Car—filled with tables seating four. We

there are employed by the train com-

were in for a treat, with gourmet meals

pany; until recently it had a population

of regional fare prepared by onboard

of 4). We would also stop in Adelaide

chefs. Dishes included veal tenderloin,

and Broken Hill (the country’s longest-

Fremantle jewfish (which I selected:

lived mining city, visiting the Miners

“Hard to find--predominately in Aus-

Memorial, a monument recognizing

tralia’s southwest—but great to eat,” de-

over 800 miners who lost their lives in

scribed the menu); a carrot, mushroom

area mines) before arriving in Sydney.

and hazelnut tart; lamb loin, chicken

Passengers enjoy gourmet meals of regional fare cooked on board--and fine Australian wines--as well as stops at various towns to tour.

breast fillet, and roasted vegetable and An hour before our designated lunch

quinoa. Dessert choices were Strawber-

time, Carl and I swayed through a few

ry Gum Panna Cotta or a plate of fabu-

bouncing train cars to the Outback

lous regional cheeses (which I selected

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every time): Tarago River Blue Cheese, Woodside Saltbush Chevre and Maffra Aged Cheddar—served with Willabrand glazed figs, strawberries, almonds and lavosh. Another yummy cheese plate included La Vera Adel Blue Cheese, Alexandrina Mt. Jagged Mature Cheddar and Margaret River Dairy Company Brie. Our table mates that first lunch day were Lindsey and David Goff, originally from England, who had moved Down Under in 1988 and currently reside in Catherine Hill Bay, north of Sydney. They were aboard for two nights and would be getting off in Adelaide. This was also their first time on the Indian Pacific. “It was one of the high spots of our holiday,” Lindsey later told me. “To be able to sit in the comfort of the train and experience the vastness of the Nullarbor Desert as we passed through it was amazing. The stops that were made--first at Kalgoorlie, with a trip to the gold mine, and then at Cook, with its population of two--were both interesting and different. “We found the staff on board to be very helpful and loved the fact that, for every meal, we were seated with a different couple. It made the journey much more interesting being able to meet new people and to hear their stories. We loved the food, too, and the chef’s clever use of local produce to create a unique menu.” And that was one of the highlights for me--besides being rocked to sleep each evening in the comfy bunk bed and gazing out the window to observe the barren landscape during the day: the fabulous food. Three-course dinner highlights included first courses of Outback Tasting Plate (which I had, sampling smoked emu, kangaroo salami and cured

The Indian Pacific is a transcontinental odyssey, stopping in one Outback ghost town with a population of only two!

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“We loved the food, too use of local produce to

o, and the chef’s clever o create a unique menu.”

Wagyu),Yabby and Crab Bisque, Yellow-Eyed Mullet, and Woodside Chevre Souffle. Main courses included barramundi (my favorite), Tenderidge beef fillet, mushroom risotto, and rack of lamb. Some desserts offered were Sticky Date Pudding, Deconstructed Desert Lime Lamington, and Dark Chocolate Mousse. Not to mention the fabulous Australian wines! After a full tummy from that first amazing two-course lunch, I found myself heading back to our compartment to nap—until it was time for pre-dinner drinks! (By the way, I never did read any of my packed books!) “The accommodations on board were comfortable and clean,” added Lindsey. “We really enjoyed our train trip and are contemplating future train trips in Australia, but probably on some of the other major routes across this huge country.” p

IF YOU GO: For information on the Indian Pacific and other Great Southern Rail adventures, including the Ghan (which is next on our list!) please see: www.greatsouthernrail.com From the U. S. you can contact: Swain Destinations: 1-866-429-9722 www.swaindestinations.com About Australia: 1-888-359-2877 www.aboutaustralia.com

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A Heartfelt Introduction to France “The cruise began with a journey into history and ended with a spectacular river view of the Eiffel Tower glittering with gold lights at night.”

he man behind me choked back sobs as the notes of the Star Spangled Banner drifted through Normandy’s American Cemetery. I fumbled in my bag for tissues to mop my own tears, flowing freely as

the music segued into a most mournful rendering of Taps.

Fishing and pleasure boats moor in boats crowd the port of Honfleur. Photo Maribeth Mellin

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This wasn’t the France of my holiday fantasies, yet it was the perfect introduction to a country I’d ignored too long.

The Eiffel Tower glows above the Paris skyline. Photo courtesy Atout France/

Passengers gathered for a wreathlaying ceremony at the American Cemetery. Photo Maribeth Mellin

By Maribeth Mellin

ecently, I’d taken to grumbling “I’ve traveled to every continent on this planet—including Antarctica—but I’ve never been to Paris.” Heck, the only time I’d seen

France was on a short Mediterranean cruise at least a decade back. That disgraceful lapse was remedied by joining a Vantage cruise from Normandy to Paris along the Seine. The cruise began with a journey into history and ended with a spectacular river view of the Eiffel Tower glittering with gold lights at night. I tacked on four solo days in Paris—but that’s another story. Suffice to say it won’t be my last time in Paris. My education began in Honfleur, a classic fishing port with wooden skiffs moored against a centuries-old, slate-roofed backdrop. There I quickly learned to love Normandy caramels and butter; whelk and winkle were less enticing. Shopping was irresistible, but I made time for Les Maisons Satie, the surrealistic birthplace of artist and composer Erik Satie. Readers of a certain age will remember Satie’s lyrical Gynmo-

pedies as the lead and final tracks on the 1968 album Blood Sweat & Tears. My favorite piano lessons included Satie’s complex, mesmerizing compositions from then on. At the museum, a group of teenagers joined me in a stark white room watching a pianist-free white piano play Gynmopede Number One repeatedly, guaranteeing the haunting music’s continued popularity.

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In the Mood

A visit to the Caen Memorial Centre for History and Peace the

That hour-long interlude set a somnolent mood for the

nating, somber museum aims to promote peace by exhibiting

evening, and I retired to my comfy cabin for a room-service

the full horrors of the two world wars, the Cold War and more

seafood and wine dinner accompanied by Chocolates, one of

modern conflicts. Many of my companions were absorbed

several French-themed movies offered amid excellent TV and

with the military exhibits while I grew ever more despondent

video options. All the latest pre-election news was at hand as

viewing photos and videos of human suffering. Fortunately,

well, but France required my full, grateful attention.

the expansive grounds include gorgeous gardens and trees

following day pretty much drained me emotionally. The fasci-

where my spirits revived. Back at ship, I rushed into Honfleur The next morning, fog blanketed the American Cemetery,

for souvenir (and emergency) caramels before thoroughly

where nearly 10,000 Allied troops (and a few celebrity vets)

enjoying the amusing onboard Crew Show.

are buried beneath simple white crosses and stars. Most of my fellow passengers had chosen this itinerary specifically

Joan and Julia

for the D-Day tours, a Vantage specialty. We gathering for a cathartic wreath-laying ceremony at the spiritually and emo-

With plans for lunch in Julia Childâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footsteps firmly in place, I

tionally moving cemetery before wandering along the broad

set out early the next morning to explore Rouen, our next port

sands of Omaha Beach on that subdued, illuminating day.

on the way to Paris. Pretty much anything I wanted to learn about France was available in Normandyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital city: tragic

Flower markets line the streets in Rouen. Photo Maribeth Mellin

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history, medieval architecture, art, hat shopping (success!) and amazing food filled the day. Rouen’s heroine is Joan of Arc; Claude Monet is its most famous artist. A cast-iron spire splitting the sky above the Notre-Dame Cathedral of Rouen is France’s highest, rising above the 12th century church’s soaring stone pillars. Lightning, fires and wars have damaged the building several times and some ancient walls and radiant stained glass windows crumbled under allied bomber attacks during World War II. Still, most of the church remains intact, its lacy, Gothic curlicues and statues withstanding all indignities. Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431 in Rouen’s marketplace, now home to the modernist Church of Saint Joan of Arc. Stained glass windows from a 16th century church destroyed in the Second World War add a sense of Norman history to the UFO-like structure. Flower and market stands and souvenir shops surround the church, which sits ever so conveniently across the street from La Couronne. The skinny, tall, quarter-timbered Norman classic with its charming flower boxes and mullioned windows is home to one of France’s oldest auberges (inns), circa 1345. Julia Child savored her first French lunch, which she later called “the most exciting meal of my life,” at La Couronne in 1948. Fortune was on my side, as the famed restaurant became the site of my first formal meal in France. To achieve this accomplishment I first had to climb numerous narrow, steep steps and dodge through tightly spaced tables in one of several small dining rooms—seemed many of my shipmates had the same inspired meal in mind. Small price for a dreamy lunch of foie gras, shellfish, Bordeaux and chocolates.

Rouen’s Notre-Dame Cathedral stands tall despite the ravages of time, nature and war. Photo Maribeth Mellin

One of many statues of Joan of Arc in Rouen’s cathedral. Photo Maribeth Mellin

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“Sunsets from the upper deck lingered for hours, as did wineenhanced conversations and dances with strangers.”

Cruising the Seine

Fishing barges turned into houseboats line the banks of the Seine. Photo Maribeth Mellin

Lest we forget, this whole trip was made

passengers, hailed from Colorado, Ala-

possible thanks to a mesmerizing cruise

bama and Vancouver. Dress was casual,

alone the Seine. One of my favorite

but neat and meals were friendly affairs.

mornings was spent packing and organizing (usually a dreaded chore) while floating along the riverside near Paris.

Aerial of the city of lights crowned with the Eiffel Tower. Photo courtesy Pixabay

With my wall-sized window open wide, I snapped photos and relished chilled, watery air. Sunsets from the upper deck lingered for hours, as did wine-enhanced conversations and dances with strangers. Fellow passengers on the MS River Venture, which can carry 134

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On our final night the captain slowly steered the ship into Paris, gradually edging toward the piece de resistance. At the stroke of 10, we sailed into full view of the Eiffel Tower sparkling with shooting, flashing lights. One woman I shared a group dance with on the last night summed up the whole experience best, saying, “I was overly impressed.” p

Omaha Beach at low tide.

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The Grove Park Inn F By John Muncie & Jody Jaffe

orget H.G. Wells; ignore “Back to the

Future.” If you want to step into a time machine, book a stay at the Omni Grove Park Inn.

When we walked though the Inn’s stately front doors a few months back we left the 21st century behind. A 1913 Model T Ford commanded one corner of a monumental foyer furnished with chairs, tables, lamps and two-story pillars straight out of the 1920 Arts and Crafts catalogue; “Need help with your bags?” asked a guy wearing Ben Hogan golfing gear; and drifting in from somewhere was Billy Holliday singing, “Like the bubbles in a glass of champagne, you go to my head. . .”

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Indoor cavern — Indoor pool at the Inn’s spa complex. (John Muncie) Opposite: Opened in 1913, the main building of the Grove Park Inn, in Asheville, NC. (John Muncie)

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e were tempted to ask the dapper front desk guy,

That Model T commemorates the year the Grove Park Inn

“Excuse me, do you have a reservation for Gatsby,

opened. The Inn, partially inspired by the Old Faithful Inn at

party of two?” But he’d probably heard that gag

Yellowstone, was built from local granite fitted together by

a hundred times. After all, this was where F. Scott Fitzgerald

imported Italian masons and a North Carolina crew so large

stayed when he was drying out, trying to revive his drowning

the building was finished in a year.

career and keeping tabs on Zelda, who was getting shock treatments at a nearby hospital.

Spa’s outdoor pool at night with the main building in the background. (The Omni Grove Park Inn)

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The masons were instructed by architect Fred Seely (son-in-

law of founder Edwin Grove) to insure that, “. . . not a piece of stone should be visible to the eye except it show the time-eaten face given to it by the thousands of years of sun and rain that had beaten upon it as it lain on the mountain side.” At the grand opening then-Secretary of State William Jennings Bryan was on hand to note, “I congratulate these men. They have built for the ages.”

Top: Bellman in period costume greets guests at the Inn’s front doors. (John Muncie)

Therapeutic waterfall at one of the spa’s indoor pools. (The Omni Grove Park Inn)

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Over the decades, two large modern wings have been added to the Inn (it now has more than 500 rooms) and the grounds have been renovated several times; early on, they added a pro-level golf course. But the original central building remains the same: monumentally rustic, a lodge conceived by Hobbits with a Pharoah complex. One of the Inn’s newer additions – and one reason we came here -- is a 43,000-square-foot spa complex that’s been lauded by Conde Nast Traveler as one of the nation’s top resort spas. The kind of place with eucalyptus-infused steam rooms and indoor and outdoor whirlpools. Still, despite these amenities, the Grove Park isn’t considered a classic “destination spa” – where you check in, slowly turn to Jello (or start getting fit), then check out days later. One reason is location. The Inn sits on the side of Sunset Mountain and sprawls downslope to the spa, the golf course and a sports facility. From its rock-lined terrace, you face west, the distant Blue Ridge Mountains, and a mostly forested expanse. However, the view is deceiving. The Inn is less than two miles from downtown Asheville, probably the hippest – and hippiest – town in North Carolina. You wouldn’t hunker down in the Inn and avoid Asheville’s extensive art districts, the nearby Biltmore Estate (North Carolina’s top tourist attraction), the Biltmore Village shopping district, or its vibrant downtown – a huge swath of which, when we arrived, was closed to traffic for a two-day “vegan fest.” Who knew there were so many gluten-free beers?

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Still, after exploring the city, we ended up spending one morning knocking around the Inn and its immediate surroundings. The highlight of this exploration was the Grovewood, an 11-acre Arts and Crafts compound practically in the shadow of the Inn’s Vanderbilt Wing. The Grovewood, another brainchild of Fred Seely’s, was built less than 10 years after the Inn. It began as a center for local artisans and a homespun wool factory. A century later it’s become a complex of museums, artists’ studios, and an outdoor sculpture garden, all topped by a display of exquisite handicrafts at the Grovewood Gallery. We missed the Inn’s guided “Historic Walking Tour” so we grabbed a brochure and went on our own. It seems silly to say it, but the Inn’s highlights include the two fireplaces at either end of the “Great Hall.” “Fireplace” doesn’t really capture their essence. These are structures that can handle nine-foot logs (the andirons alone weigh 500 pounds each) with stonework so massive they hide the hotel elevators, which run along the chimney shafts. Our first elevator ride of that day was to the 4th floor where we made a pilgrimage to rooms 441 and 443 – where F. Scott Fitzgerald stayed in 1935 and 1936. The rooms can still be booked so we couldn’t go inside but Inn folks say the furnishings are all of the era or are period replicas. ( Our own room, two stories above, came appointed with its original built-in drawers and cabinets.)

Early morning at the spa’s outdoor pool. (The Omni Grove Park Inn)

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One of the elevator operators – yes each chimney-side eleva-

Our spa afternoon began with his-and-hers Mountain River

tor has a human operator – told us that F. Scott had picked

Walks – an 80-minute treatment that combined massage,

his rooms because they overlook the Inn’s entry driveway,

reflexology, warm stones, aromatic oils and herbal-steamed

allowing him to check out the prettiest

towels. Hard to beat – until we

incoming guests.

stepped from the massage rooms to the underground pools.

Other highlights that morning included prize-winning gingerbread

The pools – one at 84 degrees, the

houses (really – they hold an annual

other at 88 -- are fed by 7-foot-high

national contest), the retail promenade

“therapeutic” waterfalls, which spill

( gourmet chocolates), an immersion

down with the force of 200 gallons

in Inn history (guests have included

per minute. Any stray muscle tension

Thomas Edison, Helen Keller, Jerry

left over from the massages was

Seinfeld, Henry Kissinger and 10 U.S.

obliterated by standing under those

presidents) and a latte at The Market-

powerful, throbbing downpours.

place, one of the Inns seven restaurants and cafes.

Guests in various towel/swimsuit/ bathrobe garb walked in and out of

But the afternoon we saved for spa

the underground grotto’s shadows

time.

and passageways while the spa staff – equipped with walkie-talkies and

The huge spa complex, finished in

ear pieces like CIA agents – stood

2001, sits between the Inn’s two

ready to fulfill any spa need.

modern wings. It’s accessed by elevators and underground corridors or by an elaborate stone walkway -- landscaped with

Eventually -- our bodies waterfalled into nirvana -- we ended

waterfalls -- that spills down the hillside from the main build-

up in deck chairs by the outside pool. On the western horizon,

ing.

thunderclouds were building over the Blue Ridge. But too far off to worry about. Poolside life was serene. The only thing

The spa includes an outdoor pool with lovely long-range views

on our horizon was dinner at the hotel’s Sunset Terrace and

but most of it is underground where the stone-and-waterfall

maybe after-dinner drinks there, too.

theme continues. Along with dressing rooms, a café, and the usual amenities (coconut water in the waiting room), the spa’s

We were seriously hunkered down and seriously turning into

centerpiece is an indoor pool complex interwoven with stone

Jello. And that’s when we decided that maybe the Grove Park

pillars, vaulted stone ceilings, and huge skylights.

Inn was a “destination spa” after all. p

Elevators in the Inn’s original main building feature massive stone entryways and friendly operators. (John Muncie)

Stone quarried in nearby mountains line the walls of the spa’s underground pools. (The Omni Grove Park Inn)

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Top Ahh moments Body: Standing under the thunderous underground spa waterfalls Taste: Trout hushpuppies at an outdoor table outside the Grand Hall Sight: Watching the sunset from the The Sunset Terrace Sound: Crackling of the fire in Great Hall fireplaces Service: The elevator operators: always cheerful, always helpful, always laughing at our lame jokes. WINEDINEANDTRAVEL.COM

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A TALE OF 2 FOOD TOURS Eating Our Way Through Rome and London STORY & PHOTOGRAPHY BY RON JAMES

y favorite tour when I travel focuses on food.

In just a few hours, you are immersed in a city’s history,

Oddly, at least to me, is many travelers have

architecture, neighborhoods and more. Good guides know

the wrong idea about food tours. They’re not

how a neighborhood ticks and share lots of stories - fascinat-

about just stuffing your face - although you do

ing, funny, and even scary. Along the way, they introduce you

that. A good food tour is a tasty mix of culinary and cultural. It

to restaurateurs, shopkeepers and their staffs eager to share

introduces you to local customs and haunts – places where

their products with pride.

locals go.

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On our most recent adventure abroad, we visited two of our favorite cities, Rome and London. Over the years, weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve explored many of their tourist treasures, so this time we decided to experience them gastronomically â&#x20AC;&#x201C; see them via our palates. We booked tours for both through the same

Soho is an eclectic mix of sketchy & trendy with world-class restaurants standing shoulder-to-shoulder with massage parlors dive-bars, boutique shops and expensive flats.

company, Eating Europe, which offers several options in Rome and London for small groups.

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LONDON’S WEST END: SOHO

We’ve walked around Soho, dined at trendy restaurants there

the area was mostly barren land. There would be plenty more

and enjoyed West End Theater, loving the energy and edginess

as we made our way through the crowded streets.

in the bustling streets especially after sundown. But, we really didn’t know it – its history, especially its dark, exotic secrets.

Standing in front of Ronnie Scott’s, one of the world most

Our Twilight Soho Food Tour more than satisfied not only our

important jazz venues, Alison began to recount Soho’s links

palate, but our curiosity about this wonderful place – past and

to popular music beginning in the 1940s when it embraced

present.

American jazz. Soon we were passing places where legends of British music performed and recorded - The Beatles, Rolling

We joined our tour in front of the imposing Palace Theatre,

Stones, David Bowie and Led Zeppelin. We visited Denmark

which happened to be playing the new Harry Potter plays. The

Street, the home of the studios where hits were churned out,

first intriguing tidbit from our tour guide, Alison Larnder: Soho

and nearby pubs where musicians hammered out deals, over a

was named after a hunting call used in the 17th century when

pint or two.

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Our tour took us through cobblestone streets lined with very English looking pubs, trendy restaurants and places that made music history.

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The sex industry, Soho’s dark side for decades, really took off around this time when it was legalized in 1959. Today prostitution is no longer legal, but we could see from the number of massage parlors and gentlemen’s clubs we passed that it’s not gone. Toward the end of our tour as we moved through narrow alleys, we passed lively bars, gay and straight. No doubt, most everything could still be found in Soho after dark despite the area’s increasing gentrification. Learning the neighborhood’s naughty secrets was fun and fascinating, but food topped the tour’s agenda. We followed Alison into trendy dining spots, casual ethnic eateries and back-room establishments you’d never find without a guide or Soho local. In the spirit of the evening, we learned adult beverage would be served at every stop – craft beer, wine and gin to a designer champagne cocktail. Mary and I had been away from our Mexican food favorites for weeks now, so we cheered our first stop at La Bodega Negra for street tacos and ice cold margaritas. All were damned good, if not exactly comparable to fare from Southern California taco shops. Our Soho fiesta was off to a good start.

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Our first stop is for tacos and tequila. A great combination anywhere, anytime.

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I’m not especially fond of gin, but surprisingly I loved the gin and tonic served at The London Gin Club where 270 small-batch and artisan gins are on the menu. Gin is wildly popular in London; in fact, a few bars only made martinis from gin, not vodka. Happily for someone like me who loves pub food, the drink was served with a perfect little gin –infused beef pie. What a fun stop this would be for a preor post-theater nosh.

Gin and beef pie -- England’s equivalent to tacos and tequila.

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A taste of Barcelona at Enrique Tomas serving up some tasty Jamon and Spanish wines.

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Our next stop offered comfort food of another kind â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a Spanish jamon tasting with wine at Enrique Tomas. Like a wine flight tasting only with ham, we tasted jamons that varied by source, quality and age. I could taste some differences. Admittedly, after years of practice, my palate is best with wine flights.

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Right: Oh what the walls could tell in The French House.

More Spanish cuisine and wine at one of Sohoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s busiest hotspots.

The Spanish theme continued at the lively Pix Bar, inspired by Barcelonaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pintxo eateries. We squeezed around other hungry customers to make our selection from the colorful tapas stacked at one end of the bar. Tasty Spanish wine accompanied our snacks, which were starting to add up to a filling feast. Still we managed to wend our way out the door to our next encounter - an opium den.

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A door with no sign opened to a narrow stairway bordered by

“a place of drinks, decadent desserts and meaningful music.” I

lipstick red walls. Three flights later we staggered into the “den,”

understood the first two, the last, not so much.

now home to a unique Bartender’s Table in The Apothecary Bar where spirits are dispensed in Chinese medicine bottles.

We felt our way to some plush sofas, where all of us, now wined

Our hike continued up another couple flights to the Tea Parlor.

and dined for hours, might have nodded off. But we snapped to

No passing of the pipe waited there, just dim sum and Chinese

attention when servers passed us a wonderful sparkling wine

teas.

cocktail and a very sinful hazelnut praline dessert.

Fortunately our final destination was next and, though it too had

Back on streets, heading for the nearest underground, we wan-

an unmarked door, it wasn’t upstairs. Instead The Basement

dered past rockin’ Carnaby Street. The spirit there matched our

Sate lounge was down a single flight that ended in a very dark

tour to the real Soho, skeletons and all. Full in mind and body –

room – perhaps one of those naughty but nice places of old

especially body, we toddled off into the night. p

Soho. The proprietor’s slogan erased that notion; we were in

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A giant ceramic mural in the heart of Soho depicts the history of this colorful neighborhood.

Right: A nightcap and a chocolate truffle made the conclusion to the tour a sweet one. Bottom: One of our tour group desending the stairs from our stop at the Opium den.

If You Go: You must be 18 years or older to take this Twilight Food Tour Contact Eating London & Eating Rome www.eatingitalyfoodtours.com/ www.eatinglondontours.co.uk/ From North America: +1 215 688 5571 From Australia: +61 3 9028 7131 From the UK: +44 1223 793177

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ROME

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The Pantheon is a happening place at night and a few yards from our hotel . We walked from here to the gathering place for our Trastevere food tour.

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Eating Trastevere

wo years earlier, we enjoyed a mouth-watering tour in the Testaccio neighborhood of Rome with Domenico, a funny expat who guided Eating Italy tours by day and fronted a rock band by night. On

our most recent visit we opted for the Twilight Trastevere tour with Sarah that began late afternoon on the island neighbor-

hood of Isola Tiberina (Tiber Island). From our hotel near the Pantheon we walked through light rain to our meeting place at the end of a bridge over the Tiber. Sarah explained that the bridge, the Ponte Fabricio, is the oldest in Rome. In the Middle Ages it linked the Jewish ghetto with Isola Tiberina, a center for medicine then. Centuries later it’s still a destination for healthcare. We began our walk as twilight descended on Rome and Trastevere came to life. Our tour group, mostly Canadians and Americans, followed our leader through the colorful narrow streets where it seemed every other storefront was an eatery, deli, butcher shop, bakery or enoteca. Over the next four hours we were guests at many of them, sampling everything from cheese to gelato and enjoying a lively meal of pasta and wine. Highlights of the tour included an apertivo at a tiny, but hugely popular trattoria, Da Enzo Al 29, which served up plates of soft Burrata cheese and sweet fresh tomatoes along with a slice of melon wrapped with prosciutto. Another hit was our stop at one of Rome’s best restaurants, Spirito Di Vino. While hungry patrons filed into the main dining room, we descended a dimly narrow stairway into an ancient wine cellar most diners probably didn’t realize was there.

Top: The main plaza is buzzing with activity at night in Trastevere. Bottom: Food tour members take to the streets.

Opposite top: Food tour stops in front of trattoria Da Enzo Al 29. Bottom: Superfresh tomatoes and Burrata cheese is the first course.

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The cellar, stocked with 1,000 bottles of

lowed by dinner at Enoteca Ferrara, where

wine, was about 160 years older than the

the two sisters who owned it served giant

Coliseum which began construction in

plates of homemade pastas including

70 AD. Its series of rooms were probably

pesto con trofi, spinach and ricotta ravioli

part of living quarters when it was built

and Romeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous tonarelli cacao e

and some of the ancient sculptures found

pepe. The wine flowed and laughter

there during excavations are in Rome

echoed around our private room there.

museums. As Sarah shared this history

Outside, yes, we made room for dessert â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

with us, we noshed on a savory braised

two scoops of organic gelato.

beef and pasta washed down with fruity red wine.

Umbrellas popped open as we said our goodbyes and headed down the glisten-

Despite vows to limit ourselves, we were

ing streets back to our hotel. It was a glori-

beginning to get full. But there was no rest

ous evening, as the river reflected ancient

and we trekked around the neighborhood

buildings in its inky waters. We stopped

tasting biscotti, porchetta, suppli (fried

savoring the scene, a memorable ending

riceball), and a slice of pizza. This was fol-

to our Roman food holiday.

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Food tour members restaurant window shop. Sample food on the street and enjoy a family-style Italian feast.

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Before They Went There They Came Here

MARCH 4-5

Scheduled to Appear:

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Peter Greenberg CBS News Travel Editor

NATIONAL MEDIA SPONSOR:

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SUPPORTING SPONSOR:

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PRODUCED BY:

$11 ONLINE *

Use Promo Code: WDTMAG (Or $11 at the door with this coupon) *Regular $15 Admission

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