Glamour Jamaica
Design
An exploration of Jamaica’s fabulous past, present and future.
20 The Unsung Heroine of Decor Betty Jobson
72 Treasure From Glamour to Glitter 10 Christie’s Comes to Jamaica 58 Bromley Estate: A Sense of Timelessness 62 Port Royal: The Sunken Treasure 66
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Contents Elements
Leisure
Travel
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Landscape Architecture
Laura Facey
Paradise Found
Shaping Nature
Ole Time Sin’ ting: A Taste of the Past 32
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Redeemed
Serendipity Holistic Resort & Spa
Driving a Dream 44
Destination: Health & Wellness 80
Round Hill: A Classical Romance 48 Natural High Surf Tours 54
Off the Beaten Path: Kingston 86 The Great Cliffhanger 94
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Publisher's Note
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ur island home can be described as fascinatingly attractive, full of mystery, excitement, adventure and unusual activity; in other words – glamourous. This issue of Home Sweet Home Magazine reminisces on Jamaica’s glamourous past. We take a look at where we are coming from with the hope that we can head in that direction and find what we’ve lost or even forgotten.
Publishers
Garth Walker Leighton Davis Sales & Marketing MANAGER
Simone Riley Editor-in-chief/ creative director
Christina Benjamin Assistant Editor
Monique Grange
GARTH WALKER
Take the journey with us as we rediscover, reconnect and rekindle our love for our Home Sweet Home.
Art Director/ Layout Artist
Denieze Anderson
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Photography
hen the word 'glamour' comes to mind, I see images of Hollywood glitz and luxury lifestyle. Portland, especially, has a rich history of luxury tourism: it's the origin of jerk and has a glamourous Hollywood past, punctuated with the visits of 1940's 'Rat Pack' members such as rogue-actor Errol Flynn, as well as a cast of other star-studded visitors to this gem in the Caribbean.
Tricia Bent George Cumming Ishack Wilmot Suki MacDonald Kapahi Andrea Bickhoff-Benjamin Sales Representatives
Latoya Taylor Geoffrey Wilson Cover Dress Design
Kurt Campbell Cover Model
Kalia-Shea Silburn-Reid Cover Location
Dragon Bay Hotel, Portland Jamaica Printed in Jamaica by
Pear Tree Press.
Forward to the 2000's and we see that the line of celebrity visitors has not LEIGHTON DAVIS dwindled, but the doors have been opened to the likes of Drake, Alicia Keys, Snoop Dogg (or Lion), Usher, and John Legend, just to name a few. These visitors help to cement Portland and Jamaica as the 'it' place to visit because of its hidden glamourous appeal. This issue of Home Sweet Home dives into this subject and exposes the old Dragon Bay Hotel, which stands at the center of the resurgence that is waiting to explode on the east coast of our beautiful island of Jamaica. Indeed, Jamaica has not lost its glamour but is poised to rise to new heights in the future. Enjoy the great content and beautiful images that the hard working Wealth Magazine team has compiled for your reading pleasure. For further information on Wealth Magazine Home Sweet Home contact:
Copyright © 2015 Wealth Magazine Home Sweet Home Vol 1 Issue 3 All rights reserved. Wealth Magazine Home Sweet Home accepts no responsibility for unsolicited material. This material may not be reproduced, displayed, modified or distributed without the expressed prior written permission from the publishers.
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We hope the articles featured in this edition will remind you that indeed, there’s no place like ‘yaad’.
Creative Media and Events 15b Trinidad Terrace, Kingston 5, Jamaica W.I. Tel: (876) 754-2075 Fax: (876)-754-2070 Cell: (876)-579-7381 info@cmeja.com
www.wealthmagja.com
/wealthmagja
/wealthmagazine
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Editor's Note
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t was a time when Hollywood’s debonair and Royalty’s debutants left their movie sets and palatial gardens for the hidden coves, white-washed balconies and exotic hotel hideaways only Jamaica could offer them. It was a time when the likes of Noel Coward, Errol Flynn and Ian Fleming strolled along our beaches, inspired to create great works of art. Jamaica, their paradise, was an infallible muse - a wild thing, a place dreams and movies were made of. It was L’Age d’Or - The Golden Age - a time when Jamaica was the premier destination for the rich and fabulous. I’ve been captivated by it since I was a child: with James Bond and Millie Small, Frenchman’s Cove, Dragon Bay Hotel and Trident Castle... That age - this non-descript moment in Jamaica’s past - feels like a fantasy when faced with today’s headlines. Today’s Jamaica, to many, seems more like a washed-up Hollywood cast-away than the belle of the proverbial ball. And yet, our island, in its humbled state, still calls to travellers and celebrities from around the world. Beyonce, Katy Perry, No Doubt, The Rolling Stones, Major Lazer - all of them want a little of what we have...something we give uniquely and freely - vibes. From hotels fit for royalty to rum shops and street dances, we’ve carried a piece of the Golden Age through time and troubles. As we move into another year, I’d like us to think about that - the fact that L’Age d’Or, this fantasy Jamaica that seems so far away, still exists to some extent and deserves to be cherished. This issue of Home Sweet Home will take you on a journey through time with Rachael Barrett’s ‘From Glamour to Glitter’, our exclusive on the launch of luxury real estate firm Christie’s will highlight the fact that we are still one of the Caribbean’s brightest and most sought after jewels, and we’ve got the newest news on Round Hill’s expensive redevelopment. This issue will question the future of relics like Port Royal - our sunken treasure - and open up the discussion about Jamaica’s place in the booming wellness tourism and surf industry with Nadine McNeil’s ‘Destination: Health and Wellness’ and Dominic Benjamin’s ‘Natural High Surf Tours’. Finally, it will explore the overlooked, underappreciated greatness of ‘Decor’s Unsung Heroine’ Betty Jobson, a woman whose furniture and decorative flare is evident in many of Jamaica’s most iconic homes, hotels and historical buildings. It will take you up into the hills to a secret hideout, Serendipity, and teach you all about the art of gardening in Mark Martin’s ‘Landscape Architecture: Shaping Nature’.
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We invite you to cruise through the pages of this issue - don’t be afraid to roll the top down and feel the potential in the air. Welcome to Glamour Jamaica!
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Contributors
Tricia Bent
Joni Wedderburn
Rachael Barrett
Emma C. Lewis
Tricia left the world of science to pursue her passion, photography, in 2012. It’s been an amazing adventure for her so far. She joined the Wealth Magazine team at the end of 2013 and in addition to shooting for their magazines she’s also shot ad campaigns and written several articles for the publication.
Writer and public relations consultant, Joni Wedderburn, has enjoyed a long-standing affair with creative and engaging communication. Having lived in cosmopolitan Miami, historic London and bustling Kingston, she has been inspired to be bold in her career. She is currently the Content Director of her new, dynamic PR agency, Muse.
Rachael Barrett founded the curatorial and project management service Three Sixty Degrees to facilitate the commission, exhibition and strategical development of fine art and contemporary culture. She has worked with leading collectors and private dealers worldwide including Quintessentially, Gagosian Gallery, and the Government. of Jamaica.
Independent blogger, writer and social media activist. Working closely with the NGO sector, Emma Lewis is a social media trainer advocating on human rights and environmental issues. A London-born Oxford graduate, she arrived in Jamaica 26 years ago and is currently working on a book of short stories.
Nadine McNeil
Bekim Betoni
Mark Drew Martin, MLA
Dominic Benjamin
Yogini. Humanitarian. Storyteller: three words that describe Nadine McNeil aka Universal Empress, and the person she aspires to be: an evolutionary catalyst committed to global transformation. With over twenty years of experience as an emergency response and logistics specialist, primarily with the United Nations, her career has taken her across the globe. Devoted to the ‘democratization of yoga,’ she designs and delivers tailor-made wellness workshops for varying demographics, including corporate.
Bekim Betoni has been writing about Caribbean food, architecture, and lifestyle for the past 4 years and has been published in some of the Caribbean’s most respected publications. He enjoys every minute of it, he says, “Working in publishing for me is a dream. I love sharing stories that people can connect with. If I can manage to transport my readers as they curl up to read, then I’ve done my job!”
Mark Drew Martin MLA is an award winning Landscape Architect who practiced for 25 years in the USA. He now lives in Jamaica and owns Gardenism, a design-build and consulting firm. Mark also lectures at UTECH teaching his pioneer course, Introduction to Landscape Architecture.
Dominic Benjamin is an International Tourism and Hospitality MBA Graduate. He has spent the last four years living on the East Coast of Australia studying and pursuing his passions for surfing and business. Dominic has travelled extensively to witness how the surf tourism/ lifestyle industry has benefited small under-developed South Pacific island nations as well as Australian isolated coastal communities with hopes of bringing this thriving industry to Jamaican shores.
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Feature Jamaican singer-songwriter Millie Small is best known for her 1964 cover of My Boy Lollipop.
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From
To A Historical Account of Jamaica’s Shiny Moments in the Spotlight By Rachael Barrett Photography Contributed
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he ancient Greeks defined the golden age as a period of primordial peace, harmony, stability and prosperity. Good times prevailed - the arts in particular flourished.
This article will act as a celebration of Jamaica’s impact across several golden ages - a glittering golden timeline pinpointing how this island and its people celebrate and innovate glamour. Take a journey through a time when an infectious culture and rich natural environment lured the rich and famous from Hollywood film sets and palaces on the Riviera. Revisit an age when the notion of living a truly luxurious lifestyle meant owning significant property across the globe, but importantly in the commonly styled ‘Jewel of the Caribbean’. Recap how Jamaican innovators and tastemakers from all walks of life influenced style across the globe with daring sartorial turns and literary panache. Charting a path through time from Henry Morgan’s decadent Port Royal to Shabba Ranks parodies on BET, this timeline celebrates the culturally significant contributions of eccentrics and writers, sartorial aesthetes and audacious acts that positioned Jamaica firmly as a culturally significant incubator of glamourous, ‘glitterous’ talent.
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1654-1692
O 1760-1844
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n paper Benjamin West and William Beckford enjoyed a classic patron artist relationship. West was a renowned portrait painter who preserved the visage of the wealthy, the well bred and the royal court. Beckford had inherited an inordinate sum of money and the ultimate top luxury accessory of the time: vast property holdings in the ‘Jewel of the Caribbean’, Jamaica! Regarded to be the wealthiest commoner in England, he was highly educated in French, Latin, Greek, Italian, Spanish, Portugese, philosophy, law, literature and physics, all
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verlooking a natural harbour, Port Royal’s strategic location on the trade route between the Latin American New World and Spain made it the region’s first sin city as a must stop for sailors and a convenient target for pirates. Originally founded by the English while retreating from losing an attempted takeover in Hispaniola, Port Royal and Jamaica grew to be the region and period’s hub of rare finds, luxurious excess and wild times. The notorious pirate Henry Morgan was known to be dressed in rich red velvet and festooned with gold jewelry to gain trust and preserve his image. He eventually became Lieutenant Governor. The violence and crime might be the stuff of blockbusters today, but Port Royal’s pirates cum privateers were the first to firmly position Jamaica as a centre for excess and high living.
by age 17. His piano teacher was a man named Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. Yet on closer examination their actual roles can appear reversed. West, an Anglo American who emigrated to Europe rose through the ranks to become the second president of the Royal Academy in London, he rebuffed the King’s offer of a knighthood (he had hoped for a peerage) and an eventual burial in St. Paul’s Cathedral. Beckford in the meantime died alone having wasted much of his inheritance on grand architectural projects (Fonthill Abbey in Wiltshire fell down twice on completion) and was known as a great art collector and party giver, although he insisted on dining alone while having meals prepared for 12 at each seating. As a commoner known for his scandalous hedonistic lifestyle Beckford was treated with some contempt by those of West’s circle. West though earning a significantly smarter living than many in his trade had tastes that only Beckford’s pockets could indulge. Beckford eventually lost his estate in Jamaica, a turning point that many regarded as the beginning of his end.
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descendant of Jews who fled Spain and The Inquisition for a better way of life in the Caribbean, Isaac Mendes Belisario is widely regarded as the first internationally regarded Jamaican artist. The National Gallery of Jamaica has a room reserved for the exhibition of his watercolours; the most famous, the 1837 ‘Sketches of Character in Illustration of the Habits’, depicts the fine costume of local Jonkanoo players. While Belisario’s greater oeuvre includes genre paintings of simple farming life in Jamaica, these rare portraits highlight the celebratory period during which the playing field between slave and master is temporarily leveled. The bright expressions and intricately crafted costumes are a testament to the appreciative eye for design and finish of the plantocracy’s costume, and the Jamaican willingness to pause and party was confirmed in newspaper reports from the era, which depict men and women of a mixture of colours and classes joining in the celebration.
1890-1948
1795-1849
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n a post slavery Western world, the question of who the ‘new’ Negro will become was at the centre of America’s fast growing industrial metropolis. In Jamaica, while our own industry grew, a few of our own took part in fostering the literary and creative environments, establishing strong socio-political alliances with the north. Claude McKay was a great Jamaican poet and political activist who many credited as a critical source of inspiration to the Harlem Renaissance. Born in humble surroundings as the youngest of 11 farmers in Sunny Ville, Clarendon, in 1907, on publication of the pivotal archive ‘Jamaican Song and Story’, the author, Englishman Walter Jekyll, met burgeoning poet McKay and decided to support his interests by sending him to America. Keen to study under Booker T. Washington, McKay enrolled in the Tuskegee Institute in Alabama where he was shocked by the racist environment he encountered. While the glamour of the Harlem Renaissance is most often viewed with hindsight, changing the way of the world through song, dance, and literature is always glamourous. McKay’s poems, sonnets and later novels captured the spirit of the exciting Harlem underground. The positioning of a Jamaican at the centre of the movement was an important marker in establishing the island as an internationally recognised pool of significant creative talent.
“Claude McKay was a great Jamaican poet and political activist who many credited as a critical source of inspiration to the Harlem Renaissance.”
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1920-1965
(Above) Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller spent their honeymoon dining on the terrace of the Jamaica Inn,1957.
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rom the roaring 20s through the postwar conservative eras, many of the world’s great stars of screen and stage made the pilgrimage to call Jamaica home. Enchanting royalty and celebrity, the island had developed a reputation harkening back to its jewel periods. Immortalised on screen by resident Ian Fleming’s Dr. No, Jamaica was a buzzword many discussed and few could hope to afford to visit at a time when Jamaica Inn played host to Winston Churchill, and honeymooners Marilyn Monroe and Arthur Miller. Frenchmen’s Cove was considered the finest hotel in the world. Discretion was paramount in these days but at the time Jamaica was considered the Riviera of the Caribbean, and the top choice for jet-setters in the winter months. The service was first class. The island was still relatively unspoiled. The clientele discreet, elite and enamoured with exploring and embracing local life.
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1959
1964
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hris Blackwell, son of wealthy landowners and businesspeople, established an independent record label at age 22. Island Records grew to become one of the most successful independent record labels of all time and the unofficial emissary that brought reggae music from Jamaica to the world.
1966 J
immy James and the Vagabonds releases The New Religion, an album recorded entirely in the UK by the recently transplanted band of Jamaican born mods. Recognized as trendsetters in the 1960s mod and rock ‘n’ roll scene, as well as being immortalised in film and print even today for their sartorial panache, The Vagabonds go on tour for the next decade supporting their peers including The Rolling Stones, The Who, Sonny & Cher, Rod Stewart and later on Jimi Hendrix. The Vagabonds illustrated Jamaica’s musical talent in genres beyond the island born ska and reggae beats.
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iscovered by Island Records’ Chris Blackwell, Millie Small covers My Boy Lollipop and goes to number one on the lucrative British Pop Charts. The song is so successful Blackwell has it released on another label that can afford to print the vast quantities of vinyl needed to feed the growing fan base. The song is the first international ‘ska’ success. Millie puts Jamaica and Island Records on the map.
1973 C
atch a Fire, the fifth album by local reggae band The Wailers is released internationally on Island Records. For the first time a reggae group is introduced and styled like a rock ‘n’ roll band. The sound is different and the lead singer Bob Marley sports a captivating original style on the supporting world tour. The rest is history.
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1980
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he 1980s saw Barrington Watson, Jamaica’s greatest portrait painter, awarded the greatest formal recognition of his talent. In 1980 the Centenary Medal from the Institute of Jamaica; The Commander of the Order of Distinction, C.D. in 1984; and in the same year the Prime Minister of Jamaica’s Award for Excellence. Claiming to use “the light of Turner, the lines of Ingres, the range of Rembrandt, the techniques of Velasquez, the emotion of Goya, and (his) birthright of Benin” in his work, Watson enjoys success as a leading educator and champion of the arts as well as one of Jamaica’s leading portrait painters and fine artists. He is supported by corporate and governmental institutions alike to produce grand public and private commissions. Jamaican fine art and painting flourishes. Supporting the arts became de riguer in the 1980s with galleries and artists enjoying support in a fashion not seen since. A surge of pride in local talent meant that every ‘good’ home owned at least one example of the significant artists of the time.
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1990
2000s
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f the 1980s were about yuppie corporate culture and excessfine art, member’s clubs and automobiles in a recovering and steady economy, then the 1990s is the era in which the idea of glamour is turned upside the head like a dancehall queen on the dancefloor. Shabba Ranks, Carlene, Beenie Man, SuperCat, Patra... The 1990s is the golden age of dancehall and the first watershed period of Jamaican glamourous glitterous raw culture celebrated in London, New York, Tokyo and eventually in subcultures across the world. Not since the cool mods did a Caribbean movement so infectiously blend with the international movements in hip hop and r&b. Once again Jamaican singers and ‘artistes’ were regulars among mainstream tour acts of the day. Music videos appeared on regular rotation on BET and MTV. Imitation acts like Snow topped the charts. Dancehall fashion ruled the underground scene in clubs from Toronto to Tokyo. A new urban renaissance was born. Dancehall culture still flourishes today but aficionados agree that the 1990s saw the innovation in rhythms, beats and sound systems branching out on tour at a level not seen again.
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f the previous ages highlight periods of innovation along our glamourous historical path, then the present day leaves a large niche to be filled! Jamaica at this stage has held on to some of the panache of years past, and has continued to excel at athletics, in influencing urban culture worldwide and holding ground as a source of musical inspiration. With innovation largely neglected since the 1980s, with the same artists then celebrated today, there is slowly a new movement improving the attitude toward supporting the new wave of artists coming out of the island. Yet if one area of innovation can be pinpointed in present day, it would have to be the elevated status and renown given to Jamaican cuisine. From the export of our worldwide favourite jerk sauces to the inimitable chef Norma Shirley putting the couture into Jamaican haute cuisine, Jamaican food is savouring a moment in the spotlight. Miss Lily’s restaurant in New York stands as one of the city’s trendiest spots years after opening its doors in one of the trickiest cities for restaurants anywhere! Levi Roots’ Reggae Reggae revolution has spawned an empire in the UK and countless versions of our soups, salads and fusions have begun to appear on integrated menus worldwide. Bon Apetit!
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Design
THE
Unsung Heroine
of Decor By Ro Photographed by Tricia Bent
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“Her work has decorated the homes of international superstars and Jamaican royalty alike, including the abodes of Ralph Lauren and Johnny Cash, yet if you google her name, you probably won’t find much. “
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ou probably know someone, who knows someone, who knows her… she has never had to rely on any other form of advertising; her work spoke and still speaks for itself. You’ve probably unknowingly seen it on a visit to one of Jamaica’s iconic buildings or resorts such as Kings House, Round Hill, Rose Hall Great House or Tryall Hotel, just to name a few. Her work has decorated the homes of international superstars and Jamaican royalty alike, including the abodes of Ralph Lauren and Johnny Cash, yet if you google her name, you probably won’t find much. Myrna Elizabeth Jobson, known by most as ‘Betty’, never sought the acclaim and prestige synonymously associated with the places she has worked on. With more than 40 years of experience as an interior designer Home Sweet Home felt it was time Betty’s story was told. Born in Mandeville Betty grew up in a great house in Manchester. She did not immediately follow an artistic path. Her parents sent her to a college in Dublin as they wanted her to do law and accounting. Calamity intervened: at the age of 20, soon after her arrival in Ireland, Betty suffered from her first brain aneurism. Luckily, her condition stabilised – but this dance with death landed her on a path formerly unnoticed - she returned to Jamaica to recover with her family. Her cousin had just returned from England with a baby and with no time on her hands
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she asked Betty to set the house up for her and look after the garden. Unknowingly, Betty had begun a love affair with interior design that would last her a lifetime. Encouraged by her cousin’s reaction to her work, Betty crossed the Atlantic once more and this time enrolled in the Glasgow School of Art in Scotland. Doctors’ orders had been to avoid stress so she started with evening classes at first. Her natural talent, however, helped her stand out and the head of the night school arranged for a meeting with the Dean who convinced her to partake in the full curriculum. “If one is meant to do something it will happen for you one way or the other. I’m very proud of my education. It’s where I quenched my thirst”. Betty explains, “We had to go down in the wood workshop, make colour choices, learn about materials and in the end there was an exhibition where we had to create everything ourselves. You don’t grow without practical experience.” After finishing her education, Betty came home for good in 1972 and sought out a certain Mister Paul Methuen, an Englishman who had a decorating company in Montego Bay. “He was the only known decorator in the west. I wanted to move there anyway. Mobay has always been special to me”. Needless to say, Methuen immediately noticed her potential and sense of style amongst other qualities. “I had a flair, I was approachable – always at cocktail parties – I
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behaved very nicely then,” Betty says laughing, “I did try to be a lady – most of the time – if you don’t have a sense of humour, what are you living for?” As Methuen’s assisting designer and production manager, Betty learned the ground rules of production. The company did everything themselves, from designing, sketching and planning to actually producing the furniture, to refurbishing, upholstery, drapes and lampshades - you name it, they did it. The company flourished and Betty with it, expanding her expertise and clientele. Soon, the crème-de-la-crème of Jamaican society, such as Dorothy Hammerstein, Sarah Churchill, and John and Michelle Rollins, sought out the fledgling interior designer. “Back then it was more about maintaining and fixing up the traditional style than decorating,” Betty says. This experience in production would pave the way for some of the greatest works in Jamaica’s decor history; her motto still remains, “If you know how to produce, you know how to design”.
(Above) Tryall Club Resort, Montego Bay
Then came independence, the 1970s and the end of an era defined by wealth and glamour; with ever growing political turmoil in the 70s, “gun talk – man walk,” the old aristocracy started to leave the country, sold their homes and took their money with them. The economy crashed. “You heard of the murders but we weren’t accustomed to it. The reality of how badly the country had fallen was shocking to us. There was a lot of animosity towards brown and especially to white-skinned Jamaicans. You were kind of looked at as a plantation owner – you were supposed to give up your land. I don’t want to cuss Manley totally but there was a horrible rupture. We went from an era of wonderful tourism and great romanticism to an era of fear with greedy politicians. Everything was rationed. I saw the grandeur and I saw the change – social, economic and political. I will never forget that. ” In 1977, even Paul Methuen decided to leave Jamaica and encouraged Betty to take over the business. “When everybody was moving and thought that I was crazy, I did it – I stayed.” Betty took over the 16,000 square foot factory with 130 employees and went straight from assistant designer to director. Her hard work paid off, she made it through the socio-economic change. Of course there was competition, but Betty Jobson McGann was a force majeure in her field and others didn’t have the training that she did, nor her contacts. “I was young and I was a fighter and word got around”. With the Seaga revival in the 80s, new millionaires took the place of the aristocracy. Betty blossomed as a designer. New people wanted new styles and instead of lavish extravagancy it was now more about materials that would last; with her background in production, Betty was perfectly positioned for success. In 1982, Angelo Donghia, Ralph Lauren’s personal designer approached Betty to work on a villa Lauren had purchased in Round Hill. “Donghia knew all the details of what he wanted for High Hope, which overlooked the ocean. He was way ahead of his time with all the white designs. But we were still advising
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Tryall Club Resort, Montego Bay
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“I was young and I was a fighter and word got around”. - Betty Jobson
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(Above) Betty still plays a role in the decor of the White Witch’s famous abode, Rose Hall Great House.
each other, learning from each other”, she reminisces. “I remember when the Laurens were finally coming to live in the house Donghia realised that they were missing a carpet in the living room. I made him a banana rug which Ralph Lauren fell in love with. He then went on to replace all the other carpets in the house with my banana rugs”. Betty Jobson McGann’s work can be found in many of Jamaica’s most luxurious and prestigious estates, with her creations finding recognition in magazines all over the globe, yet the person behind the glamourous rooms and furnishings remains an enigma - she was never mentioned by name. “I was never one to push for credit. It’s not the name that was important, it’s the product. It’s also sad to say, but in those days Jamaicans
weren’t considered to be prime citizens. There was an attitude towards us. It was all about the owners and who they had bought the property from.” After almost four decades of success, Betty sold her beloved factory ‘Design Centre Ltd’ and felt it was time to take steps into retirement. Her customers however, didn’t want to let her go. Betty rebelled against her failing health and rented an even bigger space of 20,000 square feet, set up a new factory and then decided, in 2002, to branch out in a different way. Together with Rosalea Hamilton they formed The Jamaica Wood Products & Furniture Association, where she tried to support the workers in this field. With the downfall of the economy, a lot of foreign contractors and expertise were
Betty Jobson with Johnny Cash at Cinammon Hill in Montego Bay.
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(Above) Betty chooses the wallpaper and bedding for Annie Palmer’s bedroom.
being reeled in. “Look at the music industry - you cannot kill the music because people will play it with whatever they have. It’s different with manufacturing. Employers and employees needed a rostrum. No man can work alone so we had to come together.” Soon though, Betty began to feel the strain of the workload she had taken on. “Together with my works for the association, I started to feel that I was doing too much”. She decided once and for all to let go of her factory, and opened a shop in Freeport called ‘Design Mobay’, focussing solely on designing and decorating. In 2007, Betty suffered another severe blow to her health. She had five brain aneurisms and was urgently flown to the US for treatment. Betty lay in a coma for almost three months, recovering miraculously and narrowly escaping death for a second time. “Most people don’t survive it. I’m very blessed and lucky that God still has a purpose for me.” Having endured this serious health setback, Betty had to make a final change: when she was well enough to return home, she gave up her shop and work with the association. Any other person’s story might have ended here, but not Betty
Jobson McGann’s. “I have years of experience – hotels, villas, great houses – cuddled in my brain. I had to shut down the factory because of my health, but it has not stopped my creative ability.” She simply runs a smaller operation now. “Inspiration comes when you listen to the customer. You listen to their ideas, what colours they want. What cultural influences they like. There’s not really a trend. When the client starts reeling out I try to pull from their emotions. I know how to perform if I know how they feel. It’s about finding a concept that flows. You can create space or contain it – you have to plan it like architecture. Interior decor is not just a pretty makeup, it’s about quality, content of the goods and durability.” Almost 50 years later, after decades of tireless dedication, heart and hard work, Betty still goes strong and should be recognised as an icon in the interior decor business. Through the window of interior decor, she has witnessed first-hand, Jamaica’s evolution from glamour and wealth to economic desperation and has played a major role in dusting off this old ‘Jewel of the Caribbean’. So next time you happen to pass through one of Jamaica’s iconic buildings and resorts take a moment and raise a chair, drape or rug in her honour – here’s to our unsung heroine of décor.
“Interior decor is not just a pretty make-up, it’s about quality, content of the goods and durability.” - Betty Jobson 3rd Edition
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10 TIPS
Energy
Conservation
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nergy conservation is important, but may seem intimidating. Yet, energy conservation is simpler and cheaper than you may think! Below are 10 tips that will save you money on your energy bill.
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Replace incandescent bulbs with fluorescent or LED bulbs.
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Replace older appliances with energy-efficient ones.
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Set your computer to sleep/ hibernate instead of using a screensaver and shorten the delay before going into sleep mode.
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Close windows and doors when the A/C is on.
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Unplug chargers when not in use.
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Plug home appliances into a power strip and turn it off when not in use. Items in standby mode still use power.
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Use motion detector lights for all your outdoor lighting - they're more efficient.
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Faulty or leaking refrigerator door seals waste energy. Replace them.
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Service your A/C and change/ clean your filters regularly.
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Keep your freezer full - it uses less energy than an empty one.
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landscape
Architecture shaping nature By Mark Drew Martin Photographed by David Sose Mark Drew Martin
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he practise of landscape architecture began centuries ago by tradesmen who called themselves by other names. Stories abound from ancient Egypt languages of the hanging Gardens of Babylon. The Greeks had a great capacity in their selection of sites and the placement of buildings within the landscape. Another example of early Roman landscape architecture is the City of Pompeii, preserved for centuries by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 AD. Some early homes had atriums which blurred the lines between indoor and outdoor spaces. Fast forward more than a thousand years and we find the title ‘landscape architect’ formally used by Frederick Law Olmstead and Calvin Vaux to better explain what they did when they won the ‘tender’ to design and build Central Park in New York City in 1863. Many visitors to
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Central Park actually think that the entire landscape is natural; it’s all manmade. I fell in love with gardens when I was a kid running around the garden my mother had designed for our home in Kingston. The garden had everything a child could want: trees for shade and to climb, ponds to harass the fish, roses to smell and to impress girls with bouquets, and hedges for demarcation and for playing hide and seek. There were lawns for football, cricket and frisbee and water pods from my favourite tree, the African tulip (Spathodea campanulata). You would get these pods and chase your siblings or friends and squeeze the liquid on them. Who would have dreamt that 20 years later I would have a master’s degree in landscape architecture and I would be sharing my passion with architectural students at the University of Technology? My mother’s garden ‘planted’ the earliest inspiration of the benefit of gardens. Who wouldn’t enjoy a picnic with a friend at Hope Gardens: lying on a blanket under the shade of a large cano-
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py tree, or listening to the sounds of a mocking bird or the arguing banter of the jabbering crows?
waxing poetic about the park, it had more to do with the gardens and less of the architecture.
Most people I meet have no full understanding of what a landscape architect is or what they do. It grates my teeth when someone who is slightly familiar with my profession, comes up to me and says, ‘So how is de ‘gyaadnin business?’ (I enjoy a fleeting religious moment as I pray that the earth opens up and swallows this person like Port Royal). However, in spite of famous places like Central Park and the new World Trade Center in New York or Singapore’s Gardens by The Bay, the work of landscape architects often goes unnoticed. A good example of this is Jamaica’s Emancipation Park. If you read through the website you would think that this was the work of one male architect. However, the truth be told, there were two influential women also involved.
Many laymen still regard landscape architecture as a horticultural practise, a practise where plants are the principal concern. Landscape architecture has to do with the whole environment of man and since plants and nature is part of man’s life, knowledge of plants is essential for being able to use them holistically and aesthetically. Plants assist in creating spaces where voids once existed.
Landscape architect, Jenna Blackwood, is mentioned as a side line under the heading, ‘Expression of Freedom’, while the male architect is mentioned under the category of ‘Development of the Park’. No mention is made of the park’s original designer, architect Beatriz de Nova, a female professional from Columbia. The last time I heard people
Plants, pathways, boulders, and water create outdoor rooms and add intrigue. A space must be positive and be the constant product of a purpose. Many landscape architects (LAs) practise Feng Shui that help them create harmony and balance in the garden. It is not by accident that Zen gardens seem peaceful and serene. Landscape architecture is involved with botany, horticulture, fine arts, industrial design, geology, and the earth sciences, geography and ecology. LAs designs range from public parks to master plans for cities, from estate homes and resorts to landfills. I have been recently hired to create the setting for a burial plot. The
field is very wide, dynamic and versatile. The seasoned landscape architect has always practised sustainable practises such as water harvesting and creating natural energy. Working with the land, one begins to understand the finiteness of our resources. If LAs are brought in early into a design with an architect, we will try and get cisterns designed within the home and water retention areas in the gardens that double as ponds to display lilies and maybe a water feature. Have you ever walked into a forest and thought that a certain tree was wrong or a river was in the wrong place? Unlikely! A good landscape architect mimics nature. A great landscape architect creates nature for their client: a place where ecology is not only understood but is in balance. Many may wonder how to best choose a landscape architect - not all are created equal. Some landscape architects are artistic, some are technicians and some, administrators. My advice would be to try and visit more than one of the gardens they have designed, then ask for referrals. If you are price conscious, that may limit your choices. The good ones cost more. A professionally designed garden is an investment for the next 15 to 20 years.
(Above) Plants, pathways, boulders, and water create outdoor rooms and add intrigue. (Landscape Architecture Project: Miami, Florida)
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If you can’t afford an experienced landscape architect, the web and magazines can provide great inspiration for designs. However, if you choose to DIY, you may want to hire a conscientious contractor or landscaper to ensure you’re on the right track. Don’t be a victim. Ask questions. Here are a few tips:
Plant Green side up DO NOT bury it • When transferring the plant from the
original pot to your garden, ensure you DO NOT bury it. The hardened soil where the trunk meets the soil should be planted at the same grade, because when you cover the neck of the plant, you suffocate it.
Water in moderation • If you have placed the plant in a pot in your home, then ensure the water can drain out. Imagine your feet standing in water for days. Watering cycles are plant specific: if you don’t know, Google it. Plants need occasional food • Plants need food
like we need vitamins. A basic safe food is osmocote or 20/20. Always follow directions for the correct mixture. More fertiliser can burn or kill your plant so control your love or OCD.
Learn what is invasive and what is not
tips
hire a Landscape architect • If you are tackling the garden, the very least I would do is to hire a Landscape Architect or talented gardener for a consultation; you need to know where north and south are. You need to know where you want shade and where you don’t. EVERYONE loves to place bamboo next to a water feature. Refrain. The bamboo sheds worse than a German Shepard.
Too thorny • Don’t place plants with thorns
near pathways unless it’s a vine and you want it to grow on a pergola or arbor.
recycle • If you have the space and time,
compost.
rainwater • Save your rainwater responsibly. Don’t create mosquito-breeding habitats.
Garden planning • Any good garden
involves planning. Don’t be impetuous. They all take planning and time. Do a little at a time and enjoy the process. It’s cheaper than seeing a shrink.
Elements
Ole time Sin'ting A Taste of the Past
By Monique Grange Photographed by Tricia Bent
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amaica is known for great music, great people, and yes, great food! Nothing reflects our culture more than our tasty traditional dishes. And, while dishes such as ackee and saltfish, jerked chicken, oxtail and beans, and curried goat are well-known, there are many other foods that are just as awesome, but not as popular, especially with this generation. Home Sweet Home takes you back for a taste of our rich heritage with these two recipes that antedate our time. The first concoction is sure to evoke feelings of nostalgia. Never mind the name, Blue Draws is a tasty delight that will definitely tantalise your tastebuds with its bursts of flavours. Blue Draws, also known as Dukunu or Tie Leaf is a sweet boiled pudding, believed
to have originated in Africa. It’s not certain how this dessert item got the name Blue Draws, but, according to the National Library of Jamaica Blue Draws got its name based on the colour of the banana leaves when they are boiled. Our next recipe - chocolate balls – will sure go down well with a slice of Dukunu. The taste of homemade Jamaican chocolate tea made from these balls is sure to bring back memories of days spent sitting by the fire in the country as papa or mama told stories of yesteryears. This authentic chocolate tea is made from pure chocolate taken from cacao pods. While making the chocolate balls is a fairly easy task, it’s a bit time-consuming. But, the first sip is worth it…
Blue Draws Ingredients
1 pound potato – grated 2 tablespoons flour 4 ounces cornmeal 8 ounces coconut milk 1 ounce butter 1 tablespoon vanilla ½ teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon nutmeg ½ teaspoon cinnamon powder 8 ounces sugar 1. Mix all dry ingredients and grated sweet potatoes together. Add coconut milk, vanilla and butter. Mix well until all ingredients are properly combined. 2. Place mixture in a pot, place on stove and simmer until mixture thickens (this prevents mixture from running out into the pot when being boiled). 3. Pour mixture onto quailed banana leaves (heat leaves over fire until slightly darkened), fold and tie carefully with strings from the bark of the banana tree until properly secured.
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4. Place parcels into a pot of boiling water. Boil for approximately 45 minutes. 5. Take out of pot, remove leaves and let boiled pudding cool. Your delicious treat is now ready to eat! Blue Draws can also be made using cornmeal, green banana or cassava. If cornmeal is your staple of choice, use a little (about 8 ounces) of powdered milk along with the coconut milk for an extra creamy taste.
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Jamaican Chocolate Balls Ingredients Cacao seeds Nutmeg Tools: Mortar and pestle
1. Parch (roast) cacao seeds in pot until black to remove moisture. 2. When fully parched, remove shell from seeds and place seeds in mortar. 3. Beat parched seeds with pestle to a pulp-like state or until it becomes greasy. 4. Add 1 teaspoon of grated nutmeg. 5. Use hands to form grounded chocolate into golf-sized balls. 6. Leave to dry. To make authentic Jamaican tea, the chocolate ball is grated or cut into tiny pieces and put to boil for approximately 15 minutes. Add dried cinnamon sticks or cinnamon leaves and sweeten to taste with condensed milk, sugar and a pinch of salt. Oh the aroma! Be careful about taking that first sip though as the natural oil from the chocolate will rise to the top‌it’s a real tongue scorcher!
Treasure Leisure Written | Photographed by Tricia Bent | Contributed
"I didn't like myself. I was unhappy, I felt there was more to life..."
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LAURA FACEY
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:redeemed
"I was fed up..." H
er artwork is the embodiment of her physical tragedies and spiritual redemption. They act as a window to a world where brokenness is mended, rage quelled by forgiveness and the hope of healing is offered to others who are in the midst of war with their own demons. Through her sculptures and prints, Laura Facey manages to convey the wretchedness associated with suffering and the peace that is to be found when you do the work required to overcome it. “In order for each person to heal, in order for a forest to be green, you have to tend to each tree. Each person has to do the work to have the opportunity to heal…It’s not just doing one thing. I did millions of things because I wanted to be different. I was fed up.” It took seven years for Laura to achieve that change.
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‘Broken Open’
At the start of her transformation, Laura’s early works acted as self-portraits. The angst with which the female protagonist arches her back in ‘Broken Open’, the intimidating presence of the two animal-like figures alongside the broken pieces of the female in ‘Paper Gods’ and the stoic nature of the main figure as she hovers over broken body parts in ‘Game of Chess’ all reveal the vulnerability of women and the devastation that is left if their bodies are desecrated. “The act of making art is cathartic and my early work certainly was that way.” Wanting to operate in a better way, let go of her rage and go to a deeper level, Laura began reading books on metaphysics, practising meditation and praying. “Metaphysics was important in guiding me and giving me the tools I needed to function as a better human being.” As she healed, her work became more prayerful, larger and bolder in its expression. “The more you release negativity the more you become like an open channel.” From this place she was able to produce works like ‘Goddess of Change’ which depicts a half formed female, serene in her stance at 8 x 10 ft, her first large scale piece. ‘Singing Over Bones’, inspired by the story of La Loba, Wolf Woman by Dr. Clarissa Pinkola Estés and ‘Spirit Dancer’ followed shortly after, each of which gradually became more whole, open and free, a reflection of her own state of being. Having regained her own voice Laura hopes that the redemptive quality of her work will become a voice for women who have lost their voices. “If it can be a spark - my artwork and writing - to touch someone so that they may open to the divine part of themselves which was closed...I just hope to touch people so that they may find hope.”
‘Paper Gods’
“Laura received the Order of Distinction in the rank of Commander in recognition of her exceptional achievements in the field of Arts, August 2014.” ‘Game of Chess’
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‘Redemption Song’ Emancipation Park, Jamaica
In 2003 Laura created the ‘Redemption Song’ monument that graces the main gate of Emancipation Park here in Jamaica. ‘’Renude’ controversy’, ‘One hell of a monument’, ‘Size does matter, Jamaicans decide’, are just a few of the headlines that followed the statues erection. In retrospect, Laura, wonders if the outcry could have simply been a result of the fact that we’ve never seen such an explicit view of a naked man on such a large scale. Driving through Fern Gully, you can’t miss the heavily phallused wooden sculptors on display. “Police came, scooped up a man’s sculptures and took them to the station in Ocho Rios. The sculptor went down to the station and said ‘you better give me back my sculptures or you go take down the naked man in Emancipation Park!’ They gave them back to him.” Her exposure to other works of art like the Kama Sutra frieze in India, which displays a variety of sexual poses in sculpture, have caused her to reflect on the controversy that surrounded her artwork. “Where do we draw the lines now? They were able to get back their sculptures and we have to drive past them now. People have to drive past mine as well and some people find it lewd and out of order. Imagine putting up a frieze in Jamaica…in a way we’re halfway there with our sculpting.”
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‘Spirit Dancer’
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(Against wall) ‘Solandra Deliciae’, (Wooden Piece) ‘Blue Rose’
‘Hanging of Phibba’
Artist Laura Facey
‘Redemption Song’, like her later works, was intended to be prayerful and meditative. From it was birthed her most internationally renowned piece ‘Their Spirits Gone Before Them’ - a cottonwood canoe featuring resin miniatures of the Redemption Song monument floating on a wave of sugarcane. “The canoe itself is about healing and overcoming slavery; it’s about ‘none but ourselves can free our minds’. Each one of those little figures is in communion with the divine.” Having traversed parts of the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade Route, the piece has made many exhibition stops and is currently on display at the National Museum of Liverpool. Laura received the Order of Distinction in the rank of Commander in recognition of her exceptional achievements in the field of Arts, August 2014.
Needles from ‘Plumbline’
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Leisure
Dream
Driving a
Written | Photographed by Tricia Bent
Pictured: The 1979 MGB
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E
ver dream of driving a classic car - top down, the wind in your hair as you take a drive through the hills to Portland? Maybe your dream involves you pulling up at your wedding in a sleek E-type Jaguar, then heading down the aisle to marry your love. When I think of classics I think of sexy lines, timeless beauty and James Bond (I blame that on my childhood). Jamaica is an island of iconic venues; with so many Hollywood-esque places to venture to, the allure of channeling Bond by adventuring around the island in a classic car is undeniable. Classic car tourism is a staple in some countries simply because they have the resources, i.e. the cars. In Cuba, tourists can be picked up from the airport in a classic. Tuscany offers classic car tours and Japan has a classic car museum that has vehicles from as far back as the 1750s. Sadly, the classic car culture in Jamaica isn’t as strong as it is in many first world countries because of differences in our innate culture and economy. In the USA, many of the classics that are collected were actually made there, so having a classic car experience for a day, week or month even, is simply a matter of doing an internet search and finding one that fits your style and budget. In Jamaica, we don’t have that luxury – embarking on your classic car adventure will take a bit more investigative prowess - but fear not, all hope is not lost.
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First, a little history: all of Jamaica’s cars are imported - from the Morris Oxford, which was very popular as taxis in its hay day, to modern cars like the Mazda Miata, which is considered a classic in the making. Add to that the lack of perceived value of some of these vehicles by Jamaicans, and you end up with a depleting pool of classics and a small, seemingly ‘elite’ group of collectors. Many of our classics came to their demise due to a booming scrap metal industry. Jason Lawson, president of the Jamaica Classic Car Club laments: “The scrap metal business really wiped out a lot of cars that were valued at millions internationally.” Others have simply fallen to disrepair because of problems sourcing parts, the cost of parts or repairs. Importation of classics has declined as well seeing that the age of your car will not deter customs from charging you duty close to 100% of its value. Add to that the fact that many older cars have bigger engines ( just think about that E-type Jag with its V12 engine…no, that’s not a typo), which means that owners have to pay a licensing fee of J$7000/ year, which is the same as you would pay for a new car; and let’s not think about the gas bill for one of those beauties. This has eliminated classic car rental as an option to generate income not only for the country as a whole, but in particular, for the man on the ground – the fact is, classic car rental in Jamaica isn’t very popular. There is, however, an upside. Some of the best adventures take a little planning, so if you have your hopes set on cruising a classic to your next epic event in Jamaica, we’ve sourced the golden key. A love for classics by a small group, The Jamaica Classic Car Club, has kept the culture alive. This love has birthed businesses such as ‘Victours’, which rents classic cars for events such as birthdays, weddings, and photo shoots. If Dorothy Dandridge, Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Lauren or anyone with fantastic style from a past generation is your wed-spiration, Victours may have the right car for you. The most popular wedding classics in Jamaica are the 1926 Chevrolet and the vintage Rolls Royce, but there is a classic to suit almost any bill. Rentals are typically for two to four hours and can cost $40,000 to $80,000 depending on the kind of
Front of 1962 Morris Minor
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Interior of 1969 Triumph TR6
Back of 1962 Morris Minor
(Black Car) 1972 Jaguar E-Type
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A beautiful bride poses by a 1968 Mercedes Benz
car and the location of your wedding. These cars have graced the pages of both local and international catalogues. A driver is provided so you don’t get to cruise away in the car yourself unfortunately. You are, however, guaranteed to make an entrance that neither you nor your guests are likely to forget. So, you’ve got your style icon and car choice down, now what? Your venue must match your ride! Imagine dancing the night away at Round Hill, Strawberry Fields, Laughing Waters, Port Royal or Trident Hotel , adding your name to the list of dapper weddings held there in eras past. Classic cars in Jamaica are pretty rare. They are true collectors’ items and are treated as such. Pomp and flare are the order of the day whenever they make an appearance. The 2008 Grand Gala was a prime example of that, with classics lined up and paraded around the city and the National Stadium as a part of Independence celebrations. They add to the event a sense of nostalgia and remind us of where we are coming from as a culture. Their beauty captivates the young and stirs up memories of ‘the good old days’. Grand Gala happens once yearly (in August) but the cars do make other appearances at events such as Rally Jamaica in December and at car shows across the island. You can also feast your eyes on the cars at one of the Jamaica Classic Car Club’s Sunday drive-outs, which happen once monthly. Club members usually meet in Kingston, sometimes at Hope Pastures, which is a new venue for them, or Devon House. They’ve recently started to explore other places such as Port Royal, Mandeville and Portland. You don’t have to be a club member to tag along, thankfully. It may not
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be the same as ‘Driving a Dream’ but you are closer than you imagine and you never know, get in with the group and you may find yourself behind the wheel sooner than you’d think. Jamaica Classic Car Club website: http://jamaicaclassiccarclub.com Victours: 876-371-4934
Back of 1979 MGB
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Round Hill:
A Classical
Romance By Joni Wedderburn Photographed by Tricia Bent
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ipping along the coastal highway on the island’s northern shoreline, it’s easy to whiz by the unassuming entrance to one of Jamaica’s most iconic resorts. Just beyond the simple, white entrance, open fields gently slope toward the blue and turquoise-tinted Caribbean Sea while a narrow driveway flanked by tropical greenery snakes its way through the property. On a sprawling 110 acres, colonial-styled villas, with their distinctly Georgian architecture, snuggle closely with dense vegetation and commanding coconut and bamboo trees. Inside, clean colour palates and local, wood furnishes effortlessly exude an understated elegance. At the crossroads where St. James collides with Hanover, where old world charm meets modern day luxury, and the built environment flawlessly mingles with its natural surroundings, what better place is there for two to come together than at Round Hill.
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“What sets us apart from other wedding destinations is our unique location; we’re close enough to an international airport, but we sit on our own peninsula, which offers a sense of privacy and exclusivity”, says Josef Forstmayr, Managing Director at Round Hill. “We also have some of the warmest, most professional people working here, some have grown up with the resort, and represent second and third generation employees. They have a real connection to this place and make an extra effort not just because it’s their job but because they genuinely love what they do.” Amidst the chaos of planning a wedding, stress can quickly gain a stranglehold, and with the added challenge of coordinating nuptials overseas, anxiety levels can easily skyrocket. Soothing those erratic nerves requires attentive support, thoughtful reassurance, and a reliable team to organise activities on the ground. At Round Hill, the details are all taken care of, from the moment a prospect inquires about the property to the last dance at the reception; the resort’s friendly staff is committed to seamlessly transforming idealistic ambitions into dream ceremonies. Strolling along winding, flora-lined corridors, visitors are enchanted by the striking alcoves scattered throughout the Round Hill estate. On site, a contemporary infinity pool deck, the classic Hanover Room and the secluded Spa Lawn, deliver exquisite venues for any beachside wedding. For smaller parties, the pool area provides a cozy setting, while coral laced floors and swaying palm trees on both the upper and lower decks offer a breathtaking, tropical backdrop. The Hanover Room, decked out with stylish, white French doors, dramatically contrasted against black floor tiling, provides
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the versatility of an indoor/outdoor space. On the Spa Lawn, sweeping grasslands draped by a gaggle of long-standing, deep-rooted trees, serves as a serene haven for larger groups to comfortably hobnob and wander along a sand swept seaboard. Each scenery greatly benefits from the hotel’s westerly bearings, with evening ceremonies enjoying amazing, crimson-shaded skies during unforgettable sunsets. As the big day arrives, all the commotion of last minute preparations can be overwhelming, but guests can flee from the frenzy of it all and escape to the Spa at Round Hill. Tucked away in a regal 18th century great house, Welcome Wharf, this calming oasis provides soothing massages, revitalising facials and detoxifying wraps, while haircuts, braiding, waxing and makeup applications are offered as part of beauty salon
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services performed by trained technicians. “We’ve received great feedback from our guests and their positive experiences have translated into referrals, which currently generate the bulk of our wedding business”, reveals Racquel Bernard, Catering and Sales Manager at Round Hill. “We have a policy of only taking on one wedding per weekend; a great selling point as it allows us to focus on one event over several days and helps to make our couples feel very special.” Inherently, Round Hill is a romantic destination but with guest expectations continuously evolving, the infrastructure has to be constantly refreshed. Josef Forstmayr believes these ‘polishing of the jewel’ exercises are critical for remaining relevant with modern brides and grooms. Over the past few
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years, the resort has refurbished all its villas, landscaped outdoor spaces, updated its spa facility and invested heavily in other renovation activities. The hard work hasn’t gone unnoticed as couples, who usually associate with high-end brands, are universally blown away by Round Hill. With increased flight schedules and greater accessibility to more countries, couples can choose from several attractive options when deciding on a venue for a destination wedding. With its convenient location on Jamaica’s north coast, its intimate, private setting, and its affable staff, Round Hill, for more than 60 years, has repeatedly managed to charm it guests, who hopelessly fall in love with its property, its team and Jamaica.
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Natural
High Surf tours By Dominic Benjamin Photographed by Ishack Wilmot Dominic Benjamin
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urfing is defined by a surfer as an art, a culture, and to most of us, a religion. Personally, it is a lesson on self from the most qualified teacher of all, Mother Nature. Surfing satisfies an inner calling to return to the wild and conquer one’s worst enemy - fear. It is freedom, an escape from the man-made and a journey into the unknown. To most surfers it becomes a lifelong commitment due to a very high difficulty level in which one’s ability has no ceiling. It is by far the hardest thing many people will ever do, thus being the most rewarding. It is a form of expression in which a person can ride a wave and create lines as an artist would with a paint brush; a long pristine wall of water presents itself before the surfer, who stylishly and uniquely maneuvers his board as if dancing to the rhythm of the ocean. These brief moments spent gliding above the water or inside “the tube” seem to defy gravity, slow time and are an extraordinary form of deep meditation as one guides and absorbs the ocean’s energy as it transfers to land.
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Early explorers who ventured to the South Pacific islands wrote accounts of locals dancing on the ocean upon long planks fashioned from wood. Today, surfing has become a gigantic economic sport/lifestyle empire headed by the USA, Hawaii, Australia, South Africa and Brazil. In May 2012 The Economist reported that the number of surfers (people who claim to surf at least once a year) worldwide grew from 26 million in 2001 to 35 million in 2011. Surfers are the consumers of the industry and it would be safe to assume that with more surfers in the world, the surf industry must be growing and there are a number of signs that it will continue to grow for the next five to ten years. A recent report by Global Industry Analysts Inc. is estimating that the world’s surfing market is forecast to reach $US13.2B by the year 2017. According to this report, the primary driver for this growth is the initiative being taken by surfing equipment makers, marketers and associations in making surfing much more accessible to a broader demographic.
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Jamaica’s surf roots took hold in the 1960s when young teenage rebels from Malibu, Narabeen and Waikiki began to gain international recognition and create surf history. Although Jamaica’s few surfers had little access to equipment, they would shape homemade boards from refrigerator foam laminated with resin and fiber glass drapery cloth. As time progressed so did their access to equipment and their level of surfing. Jamaica is blessed with an eight-month surf season with the remaining four months of flat time broken up into short one or two week spells. We also have a great variety of surf breaks from long mellow cobble stone river mouth point breaks to shallow fast barreling reef breaks. The abundance of swell providing waves and diversity of breaks have allowed for the development of very talented and well-rounded surfers, most notably the Wilmot family headed by Billy Wilmot, President of the Jamaica Surf Association, and founder/lead singer of the classic reggae band The Mystic Revealers. Billy also founded the first local surf camp, Jamnesia, which has over the years played host to many world famous surfers. Earlier this year, the Vans surf team and crew from Surfer Magazine (the world’s first and most prestigious surf magazine) shot a short film on Jamaican surfing called ‘Misfits of Bull Bay’. A number of Jamaican surfers, including Icah, Ivah, Ini, and Ishack Wilmot as well as Garren Pryce, Shama Beckford and Ronley Lewis were featured alongside a star studded Vans surf team. This short film received hundreds of thousands of views online and wonderful feedback. With the vast majority of surfers now engaged through social media, and the overcrowding of once exotic isolated surf destinations, most notably Bali in Indonesia, Jamaica has now positioned itself on the frontline of surf exploration.
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My first experience with surfing began through my brothers Nigel and Julian Benjamin who both played a part in founding the Jamaica Surf Association in the 1990s. Having spent four years completing an MBA in International Tourism while surfing along the East Coast of Australia, I’ve had the opportunity to witness firsthand how surfing benefits the many isolated coastal communities stretched along the vast east. Surfing in Australia is a way of life and is practised by persons of all ages. It has become a culture, influencing fashion, music and lifestyle. The surf industry is the most significant contributor to economic growth throughout these frequently visited coastal regions. Along my journey I’ve had the opportunity to visit the world’s most famous surf destination - Bali, a tiny island located in Indonesia. Surf breaks in Bali were discovered by Australian surf explorers in the 1960s and last year 684,312 Australians visited the island for a surf-related holiday. Upon arrival I was shocked by its striking resemblance to Jamaica, with its laid back lifestyle, tropical climate and unique culture. Surfers have always been described as modern day gypsies, travelling to far off places to seek solitude and immerse themselves in unique cultures and this was a modern day surfer’s dream getaway. During my time in Bali I was struck by the realisation that Jamaica is a gem which is now progressively being recognised by the surf world. Natural High Surf Tours (NHS) is an initiative, which is equipped with local surf and culture knowledge to plan accommodation and transport to Jamaica’s many surf breaks, culture/music events and natural/adventure attractions. Reggae music is a huge part of Jamaica’s culture and is also a renowned influence on the global surf lifestyle, and so NHS provides a platform to connect international surfers with a chance to immerse themselves in Jamaica’s authentic surf/music culture and even presents travellers with the opportunity to record and work alongside Jamaican musicians through their affiliate Natural High Music. With a goal of building the Jamaican surf industry in order to benefit communities along the east coast (surf side) of Jamaica and provide support for upcoming surfers, NHS hopes to enable young, talented Jamaican surfers with the opportunity to compete on an international level. Surfing in Jamaica provides a vibe that takes you back to the days of surf pioneers who are idolised by global surf brands, which fashion their apparel and marketing around that era. With Jamaica’s surf-perfect uncrowded breaks, our country is perfectly positioned to take advantage of the growth in the surf-tourism sector. Let’s extend an invitation to surfers and encourage visitors to take a trip back to the roots; our country would benefit from marketing a unique, authentic Jamaican surf experience. Here’s to opening doors in the global surf industry! Email: naturalhightours@gmail.com
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Treasure
Chri s t i e ’ s jamaica comes to
If you utter the Christie’s namesake in conversation, scores of the global cognoscenti would be ready with paddles in hand to outbid each other over the fine possessions of some well-known society figure or former aristocrat. Now introduce Jamaica to that conversation. Ears will perk up. Eyes will open. Ladies and gents would lean in. At first, it doesn’t appear to make sense. But slowly, brick by brick, the parts come together and something iconoclastic takes place. Who would’ve thought that the new disrupt in the global real estate market would’ve been caused by an island of the Greater Antilles?
By Bekim Rauseo Photographed by Suki MacDonald Kapahi
Located in Tryall, L’Dor V’Dor captures panoramic views of Montego Bay & Hanover, Jamaica.
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The Christie’s International Real Estate company, founded in 1995, is an extension of Christie’s high-end auctioning services to a list of discerning clientele of the fine art world. In the years to come the subsidiary real estate business quickly grew into the leading authority of fine properties globally, and was established on founder John Christie’s philosophy: to build a brand based on trust, integrity, discretion and excellence. Nora Johnson, an associate agent with Christie’s International Real Estate, shares: “Fifteen years ago, my family fell in love with Jamaica.” She explains that for her and her brood, Jamaica was an oasis away from city life, a getaway with the most consistent warm weather and the truest Caribbean culture. She adds: “[Jamaicans are] passionate about their music and place culture over everything…they are very generous.” The hospitality and sincerity of the people was the thing that fascinated her children and, in some ways, made them envious of the island lifestyle. It wasn’t long before she and her family relocated to Negril, and then to Montego Bay – the reason: “direct flights!” Nora jokes. As Johnson continued to work in Florida, she realised that Jamaica was itself set apart from other Caribbean islands. She added that there was a “great disparity between markets within the region” and by partnering with a brand like Christie’s, the country could efficaciously distinguish estates from each other, separating the average ‘house and land titles’ from the real gems. With three Jamaican properties in her portfolio - Sea Salt, L’Dor V’Dor at Tryall Club, and Bambu Villa at Tamarind Hill – Johnson hopes to share not just the beauty of the sweeping estates with her prospective clients but also the connection that she herself had developed with the island and its people.
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The properties themselves have fascinating architectural stories, ones worth sharing.
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Sea Salt, Tryall Club
It should be mentioned that the Jamaican culture didn’t do all the work. The properties themselves have fascinating architectural stories, ones worth sharing. Sea Salt boasts a traditional Jamaican one-level floor plan, with rooms laid in Travertine tiles and mahogany. The house’s footprint overlooks views of both Round Hill and Montego Bay to the east as well as the Negril sunset towards the west. L’Dor V’Dor (pronounced luh-door vuh-door) is the largest property at Tryall Club and commands a captivating panoramic vista of Montego Bay. Bambu is a West Indian classic. This property was designed by Robert Hartley in the early 1960s and was built in the Italian Venetian style, complete with Palladian arches.
Sea Salt, Tryall Club
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Bambu Villa, Tamarind Hill
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Bambu Villa, Tamarind Hill
L’Dor V’Dor, Tryall Club
L’Dor V’Dor, Tryall Club
L’Dor V’Dor, Tryall Club
Like most auctioned treasures, it is not just a thing you inherit. As a buyer, you develop a much deeper connection even amidst a sea of competing bidders. This is what Christie’s International Real Estate and agents like Nora Johnson cultivate among their clients through the allure of the island. It’s about owning a piece of the rich Jamaican story. As with Nora’s family too, it is the sincerity of the Jamaican ethos that will draw people in. The culture, the views and the value behind the properties will paint the picture, a priceless process in and of itself.
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L’Dor V’Dor, Tryall Club
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Treasure
A SENSE OF TIMELESSNESS
By Emma Lewis Photographed by George Cumming
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here’s something about old houses. They have a special quality that a modern home, no matter how splendid, does not possess.
“It’s the patina of age”, suggests George Cumming of Century 21/Heave Ho Properties. He is talking specifically about Bromley, in Walkerswood, St. Ann, a historic estate currently on the market. Many of us are familiar with the house. When you are driving up from Ocho Rios, just at the
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top of Fern Gully, the road narrows. You round the bend and you arrive in the village of Walkerswood. Small houses, bars, restaurants, and local shops are tucked into the folds of green hills. Jamaica Red Poll cattle graze in the pastures. Local small farmers supply produce (including Scotch Bonnet peppers) to the Walkerswood Caribbean Foods factory, the first company to export Jamaica’s famous jerk sauce – which started out in former chicken sheds at Bromley. It’s a closeknit, supportive community.
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As you emerge from the Fern Gully road, Bromley, the “Great House” situated on a hill, comes into view. It is one of 36 (yes, 36!) properties acquired by the Scottish doctor Sir John Pringle in the late nineteenth century. He arrived in Jamaica in the 1850s and eventually became a major landowner. It is currently home to Sir John’s great-grandson Johnathan Edwards and his wife Alexandra: Bromley has remained in the Pringle family for more than 100 years, and has always been a part of the community building legacy of the area. Sir John’s mother, Minnie Simson was a strong character, and an energetic social activist. She established the first co-operative farm in the Caribbean in Walkerswood in the 1940s and hosted political and community development meetings at the house, where the Walkerswood Pioneer Club was founded. You can just imagine the high wooden ceilings echoing with voices and the corridors bustling with people. Although its presence is unmistakable, the house does not dominate the landscape. It is an organic part of it. As its history demonstrates, it has never been aloof. The Bromley Great House settles comfortably among spreading poinciana and guango trees, gracing the hillside with its weathered shingle roofs and wrap-around verandahs. The main building (approximately 7,500 square feet) has five bedrooms and five bathrooms, and a living room that runs the length of the house. Stone pathways lead to five outbuildings, converted into cottages for rent. Modern additions include a swimming pool and a large yoga platform; the home has been used for yoga and writing retreats in recent years. The house overlooks the village of Walkerswood and the gentle hills beyond, looking towards the northern coast. From the back looking inland, there is a more dramatic view: the Diablo Mountain range of St. Ann imposes itself on the horizon. From every window, from every door and every verandah there is a different view to enjoy. And the garden, terraced with old stone, is overflowing with flowering plants – poor man’s orchid, ginger lilies, drooping begonias. The Bromley Estate was once much larger than its current 110 acres. It was established as a ‘pen’ from which cattle were exported to South America. Pimento and coffee were also grown. Sir John added onto the main structure, which dates back to the eighteenth century. It is built on an earlier stone foundation - that of a Spanish fort dating back to the sixteenth century, with gun slits in the walls. What is the mystique of Bromley? “There is a sense of timelessness,” muses George Cumming.
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You think about all those whose footsteps have echoed on the gleaming polished wooden floors. Many people before you have gazed out from one of the four balconies – all hexagons, situated in each corner of the house. When you arrive, dogs come to greet you on the long shady drive, fringed with ferns. As you sit on the verandah with a cup of coffee, on one of those breathless Jamaican mornings when the air is still, you become absorbed by the view. Early morning mist lies among the green hills, and a cock crows in the valley below. Time stands still. Bromley is a place that breathes the mysterious magic of the past.
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Design Treasure The Giddy House: Originally a royal artillery house meant to store weapons and gunpowder. It received the 1988 Heritage in Architecture award from the National Heritage Trust.
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Royal
PORT
THE SUNKEN TREASURE By Tricia Bent | Chenee Daley Photographed by Tricia Bent
Credit: National Heritage trust for permission to photograph Port Royal
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ou’ve gotten your mission from Oliver Cromwell, Lord Protector of England, to set sail and claim a prized gem in the Indies for the British Empire. This is to be the crowning glory of your career as an admiral; except, it ends in failure and devastating defeat. The Spanish have managed to thwart your attack on Hispaniola and Santo Domingo. Your gems, your dreams of conquest, your career and reputation… up in smoke. Your fleet stood no chance against their defenses. This voyage, all those months at sea, seem to have been in vain. You weigh your options – turn around and go home bearing the weight of the shame of your defeat or set your sights on another more weakly defended port and claim some semblance of a victory for the British Empire. Sounds like it came straight from a story book or major motion picture, right? Well not quite. This story is directly (although with my own imaginative twist) from our island’s history. The tale surrounding Jamaica’s famous ‘City of Sin’ reads like a period novel of privateers and pirates, conquests and defeat, sunken ships and hidden treasure, and then transitions into modern day plans
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to excavate and rebuild, to convert into theme parks and tourist attractions. It’s hard to imagine, while driving through a now sleepy fishing town, that it was once one of the wealthiest places in the Americas. The scene depicted earlier took place in 1655, 146 years after our colonisation by the Spanish. The sleepy fishing village, now known as Port Royal, was the point of Admirals Penn and Venables’ attack and conquest. Shortly after, the British began constructing a fort on the southern shores of Jamaica. Over a four year period, a small town called Point Cagway was built (it had two hundred houses along with shops and warehouses). The town was renamed Port Royal in 1660 to commemorate Charles II’s restoration to the throne and the fort was also renamed Fort Charles. At that time in history, Hispaniola and Santo Domingo were seen as the pride of the Caribbean, but they would soon lose that standing to our island, Jamaica. As time passed, what was built as a defensive fort turned into a bustling commercial port. Port Royal, it turned out, could host and service large
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ships with ease because of the topography of the land. Merchants and craftsmen set up shop and buccaneers, privateers and pirates were invited in to defend it. The most famous buccaneer to take up residence here was Henry Morgan, ‘The Pirate King’ (leader of the Brethren of the Coast), who eventually became Lieutenant Governor of Jamaica. Pirates and privateers brought in their loot from fleets they ravaged, and with them came brothels, taverns and seedy morals. Between 1655 and 1692, the little town grew to become the most economically important English port in the Americas. In addition to trading in stolen goods, the trade of slaves, sugar and other valuable items became the norm in the town. For 37 years Port Royal thrived, but on June 7, 1692, the lively town danced with death and sunk to the bottom of the ocean. A pocket watch, found on the sea floor in the 1960s, grimly revealed 11:43 am as the time the earthquake is believed to have hit. “…If our ancient Mother Earth, Who gave us all untimely Birth, Such strong Hysterick Passion feels; If Orbs are from their Axles torn, And Mountains into Valleys worn, All in a moments space, Can humane Race Stand on their Legs when Nature Reels? Unhappy Man! In all things cross’d, On every giddy Wave of Fortune toss’d; The only thing that aims at Sway, And yet capricious Fate must still Obey; Travels for Wealth to Foreign Lands, O’re scorching Mountains, and o’re desart Sands, Laden with Gold, when homeward bound, In one vast impetuous Billow drown’d…” -‘Selected Poems’ 1685 -1700 by John Tutchin The 1692 quake changed the profile of Port Royal forever.
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(Top Left) Admiral’s Grogg Shoppe (Top Middle) Uncovered artifacts dating between 16th and 18th century A. D. (Below Top Middle) 16th century chamber pot. (2nd Row Right) 18th century pharmaceutical bottles and phials.
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Attempts to rebuild have been foiled by fire (1703), earthquakes (6 between 1770 and 1956), hurricanes (16 between 1712 and 1951) and epidemics like cholera. The town, ravaged by nature, seemed doomed to settle at the bottom of the ocean and end its illustrious history as the ‘Sunken City’. Although far better off than it was centuries ago, Port Royal still struggles to capitalise on its notorious past. Several excavations have been carried out with the most recent being a ten year archeological investigation implemented by Donny Hamilton from the Nautical Archeology Program at the Texas A&M University between the 1981 and 1990. Hidden beneath the waves, Hamilton’s team found ‘an unusually large amount of perishable organic artifacts’ (NauticalArch. org, 2014) that were preserved due to the lowly oxygenated environment. Some of the artifacts found include 28 Chinese porcelain Fo Dogs, porcelain cups and bowls, pewter plates, candlesticks, a brass mortar, an English tin-glazed vase, a decorated Dutch Delft plate, a gold ring, a pearl with a gold attachment, silver forks and spoons. Port Royal, however, supplied an eerie reminder of its deadly past through the preservation of three young children in the bowels of its ruins. This led Hamilton to refer to it as ‘The Pompeii of the New World’. Twenty one years ago, the Port Royal Development Company Limited (PRDC), submitted plans for the redevelopment of Port Royal as a heritage tourism attraction and cruise ship port. The hope was that there would once again be ships in the port and the streets of the once flourishing city would be filled with people as they walked amongst buildings and attractions reminiscent of the 17th century town. If the project was a success, it was estimated to bring in 10,000 tourists per day by the year 2025 and provide 19,000 jobs in the area. The plans include two main attractions: Old Port Royal and the King’s Royal Naval Dockyard. Old Port Royal features a cruise ship pier extending from a reconstructed Chocolata Hole harbour and Fisher’s Row, a group of cafes and shops on the waterfront. The plan for the King’s Royal Naval Dockyard boasts a combination ship building museum and underwater aquarium with dioramas for views of the native tropical sea life. The redevelopment project, which also includes a five-star hotel, has since been on hold, although
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the PRDC is still hopeful that these plans will somehow come to fruition. However, they weren’t the only company that was itching to capitalise on the diamond in the rough that is Port Royal. One local investor purchased the Morgan’s Harbor Hotel in 2004 and another sought to invest over $60 million in a seaside recreational theme park at Fort Rocky. Bureaucracy has kept it, along with the PRDC’s plans, far from shore, lost at sea. The name Disney gave a glimmer of hope even, but it was quickly diminished upon revelation that there had simply been two Disney artistic impressionists who attended the Port Royal Seafood Festival that year to do some fieldwork. They were asked for their artistic advice on how the attraction should look and were expected to submit proposals which showed that. No sketches have been released to date. Today, Port Royal is known to post-medieval archaeologists as the ‘City that Sank’. It has been referred to as the most important underwater archaeological site in the Western Hemisphere by Pioneer American scuba diver Robert Marx, and has yielded 16th and 17th century artifacts and many important treasures from indigenous peoples predating the 1588 founding, some
from as far away as Guatemala. Jamaica’s history of buccaneering has left several 17th and early 18th century pirate ships lost beneath our country’s waters, one such being the Genevesoa – a Peruvian ship which supposedly sunk at the Pedro Banks, purported to be carrying gold and silver. “What is needed (in Jamaica) is an inventory of our underwater cultural heritage. We have done one in St. Ann’s Bay but that is also needed in Kingston Harbour,” says Executive Director, Jamaica National Heritage Trust, Dorrick Gray. Port Royal’s future is undecided, and yet its past has captured the imaginations of creative minds across the globe. It was featured in popular Disney film series Pirates of the Caribbean, though much of the location work for Port Royal was actually done on the island of Saint Vincent, not in Jamaica. Michael Crichton’s posthumous novel, Pirate Latitudes, has extensive scenes taking place in Port Royal in the mid-1660s. Port Royal is also the ‘City Beneath the Sea’ in the 1953 film of that same name. The story of Jamaica’s ‘City of Sin’ is one of adventure, tragedy, greed, glamour and uncertainty – it seems the future of this great historical treasure may remain as mysterious as its past – lost beneath the oceans, waiting for someone to unearth its treasures.
Treasure
Jamaica GLAMOUR
An Exploration of Jamaica’s Fabulous Past, Present and Future By Joni Wedderburn Photographed by Tricia Bent
Dragon Bay Hotel, Port Antonio, Jamaica
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ost World War II, rich aristocrats, affluent socialites and Hollywood A-listers were jetting off to an exotic hideaway nestled in the West Indies. 1950s Jamaica, the scene of a booming bauxite sector, quickly became the ‘it’ spot for the well-todo and a popular, celebrity watering hole, with the likes of Katharine Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Laurence Olivier and Ian Fleming flocking to its sun-kissed shores. Mesmerised by the country’s magnetism and breathtaking landscape, visitor turned resident, Errol Flynn, once described happiness as “a quiet spot by the Jamaican seashore looking out at the activity in the ocean”. The island’s natural beauty may have been alluring to its sophisticated guests but ultra-exclusive villas, wild parties, and a torrid mix of debauchery, drugs and rum, were what really enticed the glitterati to this tropical retreat.
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Noel Coward’s Blue Harbour, wedged in a remote, cliff-side bay along St. Mary’s stunning coast, was the perfect setting for the renowned playwright’s decadent soirees. Shielded from the prying lenses of the paparazzi of the day, the jet set freely puffed cannabis reefers, rolled with marijuana from a neighbouring plantation, lounged bare-skinned by the villa’s salt water pool, and indulged in adulterous trysts, as part of a liberating escape from the stuffy establishment. When they tired of the salacious social scene, the elite crowd popped over to Portland’s lush, secluded plains, marvelling at the parish’s pristine countryside. They spent their days lazily drifting on bamboo rafts along winding rivers and as the sun dipped below the horizon, joined Portland royalty Errol Flynn and Patrice Wymore for dinner under torch-lit, palm trees at Navy Island. On Jamaica’s quiet east coast, wealthy globetrotters holed up in quaint, remote cottages at Frenchman’s Cove, then a fashionable, US$1,650 per week, ritzy resort and a decade later, slipped away to the famed Dragon Bay Beach Resort, an enchanting property shrouded by a canopy of thick, green foliage and a picturesque inlet peering out to sea. “Jamaica has always catered to luxury tourism”, shares Adrien Lemaire, Founder of Doctor Bird Services, a locally-based, high-end concierge. “There’s an eclectic charm generated by the warmth of our people, culture, music and natural resources, which has captivated visitors for decades.” By the early 1960s, on the eve of the country’s independence, affluent guests were beginning to grow weary of the island: concerned about how a self-governed Jamaica would measure up to its accommodating, colonial predecessor. By the 1970s, after two glamourous decades of risqué behaviour and unbridled excess, Jamaica’s romance with the upper crust began to fade. The country was transitioning; it was embracing socialism, touting messages of “tourism is whorism”, and plunging into political turmoil; it was becoming a grittier place. With the honeymoon now seemingly over, discerning travellers wanted out of Jamaica. The lure of sun, sand and sea was no longer enough; it would take a musical revolution to bring them back.
Port Antonio Square, Portland
Trident Hotel, Port Antonio
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The country’s music, once dominated by an upbeat fusion of mento, calypso, jazz, and R&B, was transforming into a slower paced tempo with a distinctively heavy bass sound. The cheerful, idyllic messages of Ska had morphed into disparaging lyrics, laced with scathing commentary on the island’s social injustices. Reggae was born. As the genre’s popularity increased, The Wailers, Sugar Minott and Black Uhuru emerging as bona fide superstars, Jamaica attracted a new celeb sect - musicians. On Bell Road in Kingston, late 1972, the Rolling Stones huddled into a small, low rise building - Studio A - at Dynamic Sound. During their month-long sojourn, after daily treks from their uptown, palatial base, the Terra Nova Hotel, through city slums, passed armed security guards and large, double gates, the legendary rock band teamed up with local producers to lay down tracks for their album, Goat’s Head Soup. Other artistes, a la Paul Simon and Eric Clapton, would also collaborate with Jamaican musicians; Simon taping his reggae-tinged hit Mother and Child Reunion, and Clapton working on his record, There’s One in Every Crowd. Due west, British bands The Clash, The Sex Pistols, and a post-Beatles Paul McCartney and his group, Wings, were venturing into Washington Gardens to join Lee ‘Scratch’ Perry at his trendsetting Black Ark Studios. 1970s Kingston, a hotbed for political violence, was becoming an unlikely musical hub for international stars.
(Above) Geejam Hotel, Portland
“We were hearing interesting sounds coming out of Jamaica, plus they had cheap studios”, said Rolling Stones’ guitarist Keith Richards during a 2003 interview. “Jamaica is a wonderful place, kind of free and easy”, he revealed. Driving through modern day Portland on bumpy, pothole-filled roads, visitors are nevertheless transfixed by the raw, natural beauty and tranquillity of this idyllic, rural parish. Here, in the original birthplace of Jamaican tourism, limited development has meant little has changed in the landscape over the past 50 years. In today’s Portland, old, derelict buildings, grand structures in a past life, blight the area’s unspoiled terrain. The regal Titchfield Hotel, where early travellers sipped afternoon tea on a majestic piazza, the opulent Folly Mansion, a lavish 60 room estate gifted to Tiffany heiress, Annie Tiffany, and the fabled Dragon Bay Beach Resort, made famous after Tom Cruise’s breakout hit, Cocktail, now all lay in ruins, haunting reminders of high society’s once steamy affair with Portland. The lovelorn parish is now ready to reignite the spark with high net worth travellers. Stylish villas, from the elegant Trident Hotel, with its sensational views of Port Antonio’s gorgeous shoreline, to the uber chic Geejam, a luxurious resort and cutting-edge recording studio, are enticing visitors with modern architecture, sublime settings and ultra-private properties. With Beyonce, Katy Perry, Florence and the Machine, and Alicia Keys all recently making the adventurous trek to the rustic, east coast, celebs are once again enraptured by Portland. Jamaica’s tourism climate has changed dramatically since the 1950s as the country has moved on from solely relying on
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(Above) The fabled Dragon Bay Beach Resort, made famous after Tom Cruise’s breakout hit, Cocktail, now lies in ruins, a haunting reminder of high society’s once steamy affair with Portland.
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wealthy visitors to embracing mainstream marketing in order to reel in a larger pool of travellers. Following the surge of political violence in the late 1970s, the Jamaica Tourist Board intensified its promotional activities in North America, the United Kingdom and Scandinavia. The organisation’s efforts translated to a resurgence of the local tourism industry and forever transformed the island’s image as an exclusive playground for the elite to a fun, affordable destination for everyone.
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(Top left) Sean Connery and Ian Flemming, in Portland, on set of ‘Dr. No’. (Top right) Ursela Andress filming on set of James Bond’s ‘Dr. No’. (Second row right) Katherine Hepburn at a beach in Jamaica. (Second row middle) Beyonce in Portland. (Bottom left) Marilyn Monroe arrives in Jamaica.
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“When Jamaica changed its tourism model to the all-inclusive, mass tourism, pockets of luxury brands, such as Round Hill, as well as new brands like Chris Blackwell’s Island Outpost, continued to attract affluent tourists,” shares Geejam co-owner Jon Baker. “Jet setting, high-end tourism has long been synonymous with the island and that historic reputation
still lives on for Jamaica.” Though huge, budget-conscious hotels pepper tourist hotspots in Montego Bay, Ocho Rios and Negril, Jamaica still manages to attract upmarket clients. While the island hosted the playboys and debutantes of yesteryear, today, music superstars and Hollywood royalty continue to be drawn in by the country’s exquisite beauty and fascinating culture.
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By Nadine McNeil Photographed by Sabriya Simon Andrea Bickhoff-Benjamin Sienna Creasy Monique Grey Ulrike Reinhold Damien ‘Lookyah’ Baddy
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“There are many places that are like Jamaica, but truly, Jamaica is like no other.” ~Valzhyna Mort
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t age 16, I left Jamaica for Toronto, Canada with the intention of furthering my studies. Since then, my life – mainly professional – serving with the United Nations, has afforded me the opportunity to visit all corners of the globe. Wherever my travels took me, I made it a point to return home at least once yearly. As the saying goes: home is where family and heart lives. Since my semi-return to Jamaica in 2012, I’ve taken the opportunity to reconnect with this sacred land of my birth. Nothing nurtures and soothes my soul more than a road trip across the island. With a backpack of essentials and my yoga mat, the land and shores of Jamaica become my oyster. Playing ‘dry land tourist’ as I traverse across Jamaica, particularly off the still gorgeous tried and true beaten track, I’m in complete and utter awe of the sheer beauty and magic that abound everywhere. My sojourns have revealed to me one clearly emerging fact: Jamaica’s potential as a serious player in the health and wellness tourism industry. Loosely defined, ‘wellness tourism’ is travel for the purpose of promoting health and well-being through physical, psychological, or spiritual activities. A wellness tourist is one who is actively seeking and committed to maintaining health and quality of life. According to source Wellness Tourism Worldwide, 90% of US travellers believe that a vacation has a positive impact on overall health and well-being. With Jamaica virtually on the doorstep of the US, we are superbly positioned to be a forerunner as a global wellness vacation destination. As I traipse across the island in the pursuit of rest and relaxation, I’ve come to realise that there are not many countries in the world that possess the smorgasbord of attractions available here. What ingredients make a particular location ripe for developing health and wellness? First, an abundant presence of Mother Nature creates the pefect atmosphere for a health and wellness destination. Jamaica has this in abundance: from healing rivers, streams and saltwater seas, to magical mountains and sprawling plains. Add this dimension to our exquisite topography, history, music, culture and food, and anyone can see that we offer an enticingly intoxicating mix for this ‘lickle an’ tallawah’ country, especially for those pursuing an overall healthy lifestyle. Fresh coconut water, considered the elixir of life, is available on virtually every Jamaican street corner, and at a fraction of the prohibitive cost that our North American neighbours pay. Without even realising it, many of us take this readily available blessing for granted.
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Jamaica’s gems For the wellness aspirant, both at home and abroad, Jamaica offers some sweet little hidden gems. Earlier on this year, I discovered Serendipity, an eco resort tucked away in the cool green hills of Irish Town. If I’d been blindfolded and dropped into this sanctuary, I would have sworn that I’d landed in Ubud, the lush heartland of Bali, Indonesia, my soul’s home and healing place. Serendipity lives up to its apt description of being a holistic resort; i.e. being entirely in sync with its environs. And if the serene gardens aren’t enough to capture you, the nature-perfect watering hole where you get to share space while swimming with the ducks is beyond extraordinary. An overnight stay at Serendipity is certain to reset nerves frazzled by Kingston’s daily grind. Increasingly, Jamaica’s hotels and villas, in recognising the business benefit of the wellness market, are starting to offer wellness retreats that focus on detoxification and yoga. Another one of my personal favourites is Jamaica Inn, a historic, intimate hotel secluded in Ocho Rios. The inn offers bespoke yoga retreats that feature highly respected teachers, both local and international. Typically, their yoga retreats last about five days and include healthy meals, daily yoga and meditation practises and of course enough time to frolic in our sun, sand and sea!
Serendipity Holistic Resort & Spa
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For those who would prefer to design their wellness stay-cation (vacation at home), villas with yoga decks and creative vegetarian trained chefs are popping up everywhere. What’s more, some of the most experienced yoga teachers that I’ve encountered live right here, on this land of ‘wood and water’. Built on a cliff overlooking the sea, family-run Valhalla Villa recently added a double-deck yoga shala or gazebo, wonderfully juxtaposed amidst the palm and almond trees.
Valhalla Villa’s Double Deck Yoga Shala
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On the south coast, Treasure Beach is Jamaica’s ultimate yoga and wellness destination. I believe that Jake’s Hotel and Spa sets the trend for this, giving community life to an otherwise sleepy, unpretentious fishing village. South coast is definitely the place to escape to and fully reconnect. Also located in Treasure Beach, Shakti Home is the quintessential oasis; it is definitely one of Treasure Beach’s best wellness-oriented accommodation offerings. Roll out of bed and in less than 100 footsteps you’re sipping hot coffee on the beach. Or better yet, simply enjoy a quiet stroll. Your only interruption may be the odd friendly dog, most likely a resident from one of the neighbouring homes, coming to say welcome! For the visitor, Jamaica offers enough ‘foreign-ness’ to be charming, yet similarities sufficient to create a certain level of comfort.
Lessons from Bali Jamaica is my first love; I also confess that Bali is my greatest love. My affinity for both of these magical places is due to how they impact my soul – beautiful beaches, friendly people with heart-warming hospitality, smiles and a deep reverence for their respective cultures.
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The similarities between Jamaica and Bali (currently one of the world’s top wellness destinations) are uncanny in terms of food and terrain. It is precisely for this reason – having spent substantial time in both places – that my heart knows we are indeed a paradise gem, awaiting healthy exploration. The immediate and obvious difference between the two countries is religion. Predominantly Hindu among one of the largest Muslim countries in the world, the Balinese have successfully maintained and intertwined their cultural way of life into their tourism market. Unapologetically steeped in spiritualism, it is impossible to spend any time in Bali and bypass this sacred aspect. For example, virtually every single Balinese household places a gratitude offering at the entrance to their businesses and homes each morning. You’d have to be blind, unconscious or both not to notice this and what’s more, to pay respect to their cultural traditions. Meanwhile, here in Jamaica there seems to be a resurgence of a desire to return to and reconnect with our land and heritage. I reckon that this return, born largely out of economic necessity and reality, is a blessing in disguise. Rising medical costs are demanding that we engage in a more preventative, proactive approach to our health and wellness. Wellness is one of the fastest growing sectors of the tourism
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industry – worth US$439 billion globally – and Jamaica, like Bali, has all the elements necessary to become a global forerunner, with location being of prime importance. I am certain that many a North American traveler would prefer to come to Jamaica rather than trek more than 24 hours to travel across the planet to Thailand and Bali, especially when their vacation time is so limited! Recently I found myself immersed in a very enlightening and educating exchange with a sweet soul from the cool, lush hills of Irish Town. The main topic of our exchange was the healing properties of a variety of leaves and bushes – from sour sop leaf to ‘semi’contrac’. In her words, ‘any ailment weh yuh have, jus’ bwoil any seven bush an’ drink it.’ The conviction with which she shared her wisdom warmed my heart and reaffirmed the need to share more about this aspect of our heritage. As renowned Antiguan author Jamaica Kinkaid shared at the 2014 Calabash Literary Festival, we need to re-acquaint ourselves with our surroundings by vigorously learning about the earth beneath our feet and the living things that spring forth from it. It is here that our healing begins. Go explore, discover, enjoy and create your unforgettable, Jamaican healing experience!
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Travel
Off The Beaten Path Kingston Written | Photographed by Tricia Bent
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t’s easy to get caught up in routine. Knowing, for the most part, the basics of what you are going to do in a given day can be comforting and sometimes it’s just too hard to break free especially if you’re not sure what your alternatives are. We often think of going ‘off the beaten path’ with weekend excursions to the country with friends, but a little midweek adventure could add just the right amount of adventure you need. Here are a few places in Kingston and St. Andrew you can go to mix things up during the week.
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Lorna’s Catering Located on Mountain View Avenue, you can’t miss this breakfast hotspot with its bold red and yellow colours and its shady mango tree. Those that already know it flock to its doors by the droves not only for breakfast but for lunch as well. During the morning rush, it’s best to get there by 7 am when its doors open. It has a bonafide Jamaican menu with offerings to include ackee and saltfish, stewed chicken, callaloo and whole brown-stewed fish. Although it’s traditional Jamaican cuisine, the palate is clean and fresh, leaving you feeling satisfied with a sense that what you just ate was not only tasty but healthy too. A breakfast here will cost you a comfortable $400. If breakfast here piques your curiosity about lunch, I suggest you call in your order because the morning crowd pales in comparison to the lunch posse.
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f & B Downtown
Step off the streets of Downtown Kingston and be transported to another time and place at F & B Downtown. Located in the Swiss Stores on Harbour Street, this restaurant is decked out in retro décor sporting a cool concrete coffee bar, swanky mood lighting, vintage images, furniture and jewelry. Stepping into the store feels like stepping into another dimension. Although the décor is reminiscent of the past, the food most certainly isn’t. This lunchtime nook is a great stop whether you’re pining for down to earth Jamaican meals or you want to grab a sandwich for a quick bite. Some of their more popular items
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include their pesto pastas, curried goat and their jerked pork sandwich (the stuff of dreams!). Sandwiches start at $750 while other meals range in price from $800 to $1200. The ambiance of the restaurant also provides you with a convenient and comfortable way to kill time when waiting on your jewelry purchase or repair. Simply grab a cup-o-joe, sit back and allow F&B Downtown to make you forget where you are. The best part? They provide free parking for their customers in a lot located just behind the store.
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Downtown Shopping
Have a little time to kill after that sumptuous lunch at F&B? Why not take a stroll through the streets of Downtown Kingston. Whether you want to explore shopping options on Orange Street or go down to the waterfront and take in the scenic view, Downtown has many options for you. The hustle and bustle of the streets may be intimidating but stores such as Sabritru and Image offer an uptown feel with downtown styles and prices. You can grab a spiffy work outfit or an exotic party outfit from J$2000 to J$5000. There is a price for every budget. Although the clothing quality ranges from average to low; with a little exploration you can find something cutting edge and spectacular for that sassy night out on the town.
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Travel 94
Paradise
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Found Serendipity Holistic Resort and Spa Written | Photographed by Tricia Bent
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heryl and Rico Walton found the name, Serendipity, faintly written on a piece of board affixed to an old stable gate off the road to Irish Town, which leads down a path into the mountain. Compelled to see what such a name could lead to, they adventured beyond the gate and found utopia: a land untouched, filled with orchids, trees and natural springs sitting beside a gushing river. Sheryl recalls: “We came up to Red Light to have a drink with a friend, opened the gate, loved the area and wanted to stay.” They bought the property in 2011 and made a promise that, no matter what, they would never disturb anything in the environment. “This is what makes Serendipity so special: not the house, nor the cabins, it’s the spirit of the place.”
The road to Serendipity is by no means smooth, but given the fact that there was only a small path to get to their current parking place and no road to the retreat’s front gate, it’s a tremendous improvement. Widening the path, overlaying it with marl and cutting a new road down to the entrance of the property is as far as they went without disturbing the natural elements. “A lot of the work was done manually. We had to create our own shoots; we didn’t disturb the boulders or springs. Very little machinery was used because we didn’t want to disturb anything. We built around nature” says Sheryl. This method of building, in their eyes, ensured the holistic nature of the property was maintained. “When you come here you are likely to feel your blood pressure drop and your organs smile. The property was initially bought to be their home. “We lived
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in ‘River Stone’[one of the cabins] for a year and kept building” says Sheryl. She designed the building while Rico is credited for designing the garden. The company responsible for building the property is Selective Construction. The property now boasts seven cabins with its smallest being Moon Stone. Cabin rates are reasonable, with the lowest being Moon Stone at US$100 and the highest being Rock Stone for US$1000. The rates are quoted for double occupancy, with an additional charge of US$30 for each additional guest. Gold, Black, Star and Moon Stone have a maximum limit of two guests while River and Sun Stone have a six guest maximum limit. Rock Stone can accommodate up to eight guests. Although you are surrounded by the beauty of nature outside, inside the cabins have modern elements. Some of these elements include stone showers with brass-finished rain shower heads, a kitchenette
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with a microwave or full-sized kitchens for guests who prefer to prepare their own meals. The cost of your stay also includes a continental breakfast, housekeeping, access to cable TV and Wi-Fi. You would think that there would be a disparity between the outdoors and in, however, the elements blend well and give each room a zen-like quality. Sheryl is very much inspired by Buddhism, which can be seen in the Buddha statues, which are strategically placed on the property. “When you open the gate the large Buddha head is there, taking you back, reminding you that whatever is happening in Kingston, forget about it. That is their purpose, they are not decorative.” Although the Waltons did not build the property with commercial intentions, it has blossomed into just that. They opened their gates to share their home with friends and through their friends’ posts on Instagram and other social media sites other persons started to visit Serendipity. In a society that focuses heavily on keeping outsiders off personal property, the Walton’s have opened their home to all. “I have no fear. If you are going to drive down that beaten path to rob me, then whatever you get you deserve. That’s the beautiful thing about this place, you don’t have to lock up. The minute you walk through the gate, whatever your intentions are they’re going to change.” Watching how different
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people react when they experience the property turns out to be Mrs. Walton’s favourite part. “I like meeting people from different places and watching them fall in love with something I enjoy makes my heart smile.” When guests first started arriving at Serendipity they weren’t prepared to accommodate them. “At first we didn’t have a restaurant. I really enjoyed being outside and the area where the restaurant - Sweet Stone - is was a bamboo patch.” They kept their dining table under the bamboo patch for a year and Jackfruit, their head chef, would come to the house to cook for family events. Before the restaurant was built, Jackfruit would put up blocks and zinc to roast fish and breadfruit. Once they began gaining popularity on Instagram, first-time patrons were a little disappointed because they weren’t getting the food as quickly as they expected. A kitchen, with an industrial stove, has now replaced the bamboo patch ensuring that patrons can be served meals in a timelier manner. Having an industrial stove has changed some things but not others. “The key thing is this is country although it’s only 30 minutes from Papine. We wanted to keep some things country-style. We still have a coal stove which we cook our oxtail and curry goat on. Jackfruit starts cooking the oxtail at 6 every morning and it’s slow cooked all day in preparation for dinner in the evening.” The spa too started under a bamboo patch. Once there was an increase in the demand for spa services however, their master bedroom, which Sheryl thought would be their dream bedroom, became the spa. They converted their bedroom into a massage room, which sports two massage beds, while their closet has been converted to do facials. The spa also hosts a double headed rain shower and a soaking tub overlooking the river. You can do massages either indoors in the zen atmosphere of the spa or outdoors under the gazebo surrounded by the soothing presence of nature. Looking for something more active and adventurous to do? Serendipity has a little something for you too. They offer yoga on their ‘Yoga Pad’ by the river every last Sunday, horseback riding, hiking through the Blue Mountains with a ranger as your guide and bird watching. There is also a petting zoo for the children with goats, a peacock, birds, and rabbits. While lounging by the river you’re likely to come
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across a raft of ducks paddling away, like you, soaking up the ambiance of their environs. The attraction the Waltons are most proud of are the Nyabinghi Rastas who perform at the resort at the end of each month. The Waltons plan to expand their musical offering by having bands and musicians perform live. So far they’ve featured Wayne Armond and the Warm and Easy band who they plan to have perform on New Years 2015 and Jeffrey Moss-Solomon from Rootz Underground who did a live acoustic session there recently. The property is open daily for guests. Bring your family and friends and enjoy the surroundings. There is no entry fee for those that choose to support the restaurant and other services offered. If, however you prefer to bring your own food and drinks, there is a J$2000 per person fee. Reservations are recommended for overnight guests – it may be off the beaten path now, but a gem like this won’t stay a secret forever.
Travel
The Great
Cliffhanger By Bekim Rauseo Photographed by Island Outpost
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t Jamaica’s west end in Negril there rests a resort overlooking a massive expanse of the bluest Caribbean Sea. Atop a honeycomb patterned cliff, The Caves Hotel sits high on the rocks as a ‘must-see’ for any traveller seeking paradise in the Caribbean.
No other place in the region takes you right to the edge as The Caves does. Visitors can literally stand upon the fringe of weathered limestone rocks by the sea and dive into deep crystal clear water, temporarily abandoning the little village of ajoupas. One leap can be both liberating and gratifying! You would never think that this site of rustic-glamour, a now famously picturesque resort, was once undeveloped land. Respected entrepreneur, Chris Blackwell dreamed up The Caves in the 1980s and set out to create a private escape with help from designer Greer Ann Saulter and architect Bertram Saulter. The result was a dreamy islandscape, where every nook becomes a secret grotto, each dawn becomes a personal sunrise, and every minute is stolen time.
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The hotel started with the tiniest teepee and then gradually, one by one, the cottages were built; between 1992 to 1996 the unique architectural and décor details, which have made The Caves so unique began to take shape. With 12 cottages scattered about the property, it truly is possible to hide from the aggressive demands of everyday living. The naturally ventilated chalets, with their wooden structures, thatched roofs, and brilliantly coloured interiors conjure up a child-like fantasy of hiding in tree-house forts just as the Swiss Family Robinson did (and with room names like the Macka Tree, Sea Turtle, Two Birds, and Blue Dolphin, it’s extremely difficult not to!). Each room is the perfect marriage of luxury and rustic charm, bedecked with wicker furniture and splashes of Caribbean battik all designed by Greer Ann Saulter. This is a place that is both for the daring nomad and serenity seeker in all of us. The idea of thrill, saddled alongside tranquility makes The Caves a destination to remember and visit again and again. Even Jimmy Buffet could not escape the lore of The Caves. It is rumoured that in his song ‘Jamaica Mistaica’ he references the destination when he sings about “landing in the water in his sea-plane”. If this story is true, we can assume that he was as enamoured of the luxurious seaside cottages as we are. It isn’t difficult to imagine that Buffet would feel creatively inspired by staying at the property: lying on plush beds, staring into the cavernous ceilings of whitewashed wood, with the briny air wafting through his personal enclave of rest. When you do a search through Trip Advisor, you see the plethora of entries from repeat visitors as well -
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they are the seven-time vacationers cum aficionados of the hotel that revel in its mystique. You can’t just pass through the resort, you inhabit it and that says a lot about the design. The consideration that went into its layout is noticeable in the way that it makes you feel and not many places can boast that. Like a coveted treasure, you feel as if the villa is yours forever. Stepping out from your room to explore the coral paths of the 10-acre property, an abundant list of things to do awaits you. There is the Aveda Concept Spa, the Blackwell Rum Bar, and world-class dining at both the thatched gazebos scattered about and deep in the caves with their stone tables surrounded by candle light from twilight. What can truly make The Caves yours is how you choose to while away the time; so, don’t do things by the book. Make your own mark. Conde Nast Traveler identified The Caves as part of something with “easy charm” akin to hotel owner Chris Blackwell’s “amused and iconoclastic view of the world, his sense of fun and style, his instinct for beauty.” When a resort manages to earn that kind of reputation you must perk up and pay attention. Like a buried Crusoe treasure, you want to unearth The Caves experience and hold it as your very own (vicariously living through a storied fantasy in today’s world is probably not too bad a thing either). That is the kind of power this place has imbibed in its walls. You want to step in. You want, for a brief moment in time, to climb on top of the world, overwhelmed and yet, still in control. Honestly, where else in the world can you say that you stood at the edge, forgot everything behind you and jumped?
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