Fashion Maniac December 2011

Page 1

On The Cover

Maddy Ruff


David Fernan, a native of Buffalo, returns after more than 25 years in south Florida. While living in Ft. Lauderdale and Miami, David established himself with fine modern and antique furniture shops and art galleries. His business catered to premier clientele as well as the film and commercial advertising industry. He has worked on numerous films, music videos and advertising providing style and prop expertise. His Buffalo gallery is available by appointment to the trade and public, by appointment.

www.hollywoodmakeupartist.net

Dani Weiser is a professionally trained Hollywood makeup artist who has worked extensively in London, Los Angeles, and New York, where she now resides. In 1992, Dani graduated from the highly respected Complexions International and Greasepaints makeup schools of London, England. While obtaining her makeup artist credentials, she began work on the critically acclaimed independent science fiction film, Hardware.

During the next few years, Dani was a makeup artist on several prestigious films, commercials, print ads, and music video projects, including videos for the bands Space and UB40.

Born and raised in Buffalo, After obtaining a degree in Jewelry Design Lucy moved to Florence Italy where she worked in various aspects of the Fashion Industry. Designing jewelry, belts and accessories for Italian Handbag designer Gianfranco Lotti and Fiorucci. After 15 years in Italy and extensive world travel Lucy moved to New York city and managed a jewelry store on Madison Avenue for Mauro Vanzi a Florentine silversmith. During this period Lucy worked for Macys as a freelance Stylist and traveled to various locations for all their catalogue fashion shoots. Now in Buffalo she keeps busy running Moda Vintage a unique shop on Hertel Ave.where her life long passion for one of a kind treasures continues. Still actively involved in the local Fashion Scene, Moda supplies local filmmakers, photographers and Fashion Stylists with props and accessories. As well as being a member of the Fashion Maniac she has worked as Wardrobe mistress for local film productions and commercials.

In 1997, Dani moved to Hollywood, California, where she continued her career as a first-rate Hollywood makeup artist. She worked on numerous impressive projects, including Beverly Hills, 90210, and the Balthazar Getty/Peter Weller/Rebecca Gayheart feature film, Shadow Hours.

Dani has shared her expertise as a makeup artist by working as a teacher at the Cinema Makeup School of Los Angeles. She recently lectured to the Department of Photography at the Rochester Institute of Technology (RIT) in New York. Dani also penned the forward to the 2008 book, Stage and Screen Makeup by Kit Spencer. Skilled in many facets of makeup artistry, including period makeup and special effects, Dani Weiser is available for the following: Film• Television• Music Videos• Print Teaching and Lectures • Weddings and Events

For information on rates and availability, please call Dani Weiser, Hollywood Makeup Artist, at (716) 348-1239 or e-mail daniweiser@hollywoodmakeupartist.net.

f a s h i o n m a n i a c . c o m


I have been doing hair professionally for 6 years. Known for my work in the fashion industry including photo shoots and runway. I can turn anyone's hair into an absolute work of art. I see hair and fashion as having no boundaries. It is limitless! I have worked and completed many educational classes in New York City, the" fashion capital of the world." Now that I am in Buffalo, Chez Ann Salon, voted #1 salon in Artvoice has also allowed for me to take things to a new level. Fashion Maniac is a great way to stay creative and up to date with current trends and I am so happy to be the hairstylist for all of the shoots!

Is Something Missing? Stephanie Luksch

Lucy Mancuso

More information and photos from our Fashion Maniac Team coming soon!

Buffalo Photo CD, based in Western New York, was founded and established by Terry Wherry. Although Buffalo Photo CD was established in 1999, Terry has been photographing since 1974. Prior to Buffalo Photo CD, Terry was first introduces to commercial photography through Calspan Aeronautical Laboratory and then moved to become the Chief Photographer at Summa Graphic. Terry, an avid cyclist, sailor and sports enthusiast has competed in various sports and has coached and taught over the years in these disciplines. With over 30 years of photography and color separation services, Terry

continued to dedicate his talent to athletics photography. Buffalo Photo CD/ Terry Wherry Photography is recognized as the official photographer of many major marathons and regional events including: New York City, Seattle's Rock & Roll, Nissan Niagara Marathons as well as other major road races. In addition, Buffalo Photo CD/ Terry Wherry Photography's work is viewed all over the world through major running magazines, various websites and other publications. Terry Wherry Buffalo Photo CD 716-536-3022

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With a commitment to creative communication, Jim Breidenstein has been involved in countless promotional projects throughout WNY. As the founder and organizer of the charitable fundraiser, Buffalo Chilifest, the Buffalo Monsterfest as well as former editor of Hard Tales Magazine, Jim has expanded his skill set to include high impact graphic design, web design, music composition, recording and video production. After working in the commercial print industry for 20 years, Jim has maintained a viable, successful independently owned design/marketing business for over 10 years. Throughout this time, WebArt Designs and has been a contributor to the success of many of downtown Buffaloʼs most notable nightclubs, restaurants and theatres. Jim is also the music director for a number of TV and theatre projects produced by TCT TV from Marion, IL with a studio in Orchard Park NY including writing the musical score to the soon to be released, “Race to the Finish” appearing in select Dipson Theatres beginning February 24, 2011. Jim is excited to be a part of Fashion Maniac Team and is look forward to help bring an enjoyable online reading experience to all who flip through our digital pages.

Kimberly Cohen Bio Kimberly's love for fashion and modeling landed her into the entertainment industry. This fondness first started at a very young age, which groomed her career as a model. Modeling made it easygoing to take creative control with casting . Her quest for PR and Marketing, with continuing education in advertising, led her to Fashion Maniac. "I am continuously gaining new knowledge of what the industry wants and needs to be successful ". Kimberly's enthusiasm and passion is an asset to our Fashion Maniac Team.

Jim Breidenstein

David Vincent

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Kimberly Cohen


Andrew Brown

My journey started over 25 Years ago . After graduating from college in Graphic and Fine arts , I decided I wanted to use my creative education in hair and makeup .I then graduated from Peter Piccolo and went to New York to learn advance make-up. Since then I have worked in various Salons and modeling agencies ( Conwell, June II, and John Roberts Powers).I also worked at Studio Arena, Phieffer and UB fine Arts theater doing hair and make-up for various plays Hair Spray, Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dream Coat and etc. Later I had the pleasure of meeting Cheryl Gorski and we worked together in various Fashion Magazines and free lance model shoots. Today I am the proud to own my own Salon and Spa (salon Rouge ) for 15 years. I'm excited to work for this Fashion magazine, who knows the sky is the limit!

Dani Weiser

Joe Cascio

Stephen Phillips

Nathan Hall

Phillip Johnson

Michael Merisola

Todd Warfield

Cassie Rose joined the Fashion Maniac Team back in August of 2010 as head stylist . She creates clothing, and accessory conecpts, based off of current trends from each season of Mercedes Benz New York Fashion week. Gaining knowledge, and inspiration from trends spotted on the catwalks , and streetstyle of New York , conveys a luster to each photo session. Cassie's love for vintage clothing, has influenced her latest endevour, designing, and revamping vintage clothing . Expect to see her line coming soon in the photo spreads of Fashion Maniac.

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Shon O'Connor

is Jack of all creative trades that originally hails from the Pacific Northwest.Ambitious at a young age, he has been renovating and restoring houses since he moved to Portland, OR at 18 for school. In addition to renovating houses, Shon opened a midcentury modern furniture and vintage clothing store called the Urban Edge in Portland. He relocated to Miami at 24 and worked as a talent recruiter, artist and model there while also renovating homes. For the last 10 years Shon has split his time between his Buffalo and Florida homes while working as a freelance writer and continuing to renovate houses. Shon O'Connor 57 North Pearl Street Buffalo, NY 14202 305-509-0625

Pamela Anczok Bio Pamela始s grandfather sparked her interest by restoring vintage automobiles and continued throughout her professional sales career. She grew up to sell Ford OEM parts and accessories for her father始s bulk oil and lubricant business to over 150 dealerships and aftermarket retailers throughout New York State and Pennsylvania. Pamela始s automotive experience is broad as it includes industry segments from suppliers of aftermarket parts and accessories to OEM distributors and retail locaPamela Anczok tions. She is looking forward to sharing a woman始s perspective on luxury vehicles.

Pamela now works in the payroll business for ComputerSearch Payroll. Her present focus is to offer local business owners with affordable and efficient solutions to payroll processing, human resource management as well as retirement services.

TEAM CONTACT INFO: Newell Nussbaumer : Publisher of Buffalorising.com newell@buffalorising.com, newellnussbaumer@gmail.com Cassandra Elsaesser : Stylist of the Fashion Maniac team cassandraelsaesser@yahoo.com Whitney Curry : Beauty Editor & Hair Stylist of the Fashion Maniac team whitfemale@gmail.com Dani Weiser : Beauty Editor & Makeup Artist of the Fashion Maniac team dani@daniweiserartist.com Kimberly Cohen : Castings Director of the Fashion Maniac team kimcohen14@gmail.com Phillip Johnson : Features Editor of the Fashion Maniac team fashionguyphil@gmail.com Cheryl Gorski : Managing Editor & Photographer of the Fashion Maniac team info@cherylgorski.com Todd Warfield : Set Designer of the Fashion Maniac team Todd.Warfield@roadrunner.com Jim Breidenstein : Web Designer for Fashionmaniac.com jwgb@aol.com, Lucy Mancuso : Accessories Prop Stylist of the Fashion Maniac team coco321c@aol,com Michael Merisola: Furniture Prop Stylist of the Fashion Maniac Team coocoou@aol.com , Stephen Phillips Prop Stylist of the Fashion Maniac Team thelodgeauction@verizon.net , Pamela Anczok : Auto Editor of the Fashion Maniac Team pamela.anczok@hotmail.com , Terry Wherry : Auto & Product Photographer of the Fashion Maniac Team terry@buffalophotocd.com , Mario Lorenzo : contributing castings of the Fashion Maniac Team mario@bellavisage.me , Nathaniel Hall : Interiors Editor of the Fashion Maniac Team dawgnip99@yahoo.com , Joe Cascio Interiors Photographer Of the Fashion Maniac Team joe@jcasciophoto.com , Andrew Brown : Makeup & Hair Stylist of the Fashion Maniac Team salrougeny@yahoo.com Shon O'Connor : Mens Editor, casting, and stylist of the Fashion Maniac Team shonmiami@yahoo.com David Fernan Costume & Prop Stylist lifeinart@ymail.com , John Marfoglia Prop Stylist of the Fashion Maniac Team jmarfoglia@aol.com , Stephanie Luksch Assistant Stylist for the Fashion Maniac Team sluksch@gmail.com TEAM PHONE NUMBERS: Cheryl Gorski : 716-903-0600 Dani Weiser : 716-348-1239 Cassie Elsaesser : 716-982-1387 Whitney Curry : 716-239-8766 Kimberly Cohen : 716-907-2686 Phillip Johnson : 203-512-2528

Todd Warfield : 716-289-1078 Lucy Mancuso : 716-603-3402 Michael Merisola : 716-432-6216 Jim Breidenstein : 716-674-0870 Andrew Brown : 716-884-1010 Stephen Phililps :716- 573-9505 Terry Wherry : 716-536-3022

Mario Lorenzo : 716-860-5547 Nathaniel Hall : 315-762-3212 Joe Cascio : 228-5100 Shon O'Connor : 305-509-0625 David Fernan : 954-479-0576 John Marfoglia : 716-913-8549 Stephanie Luksch : 716- 864-7529


The Boys Are Back in Town

The New York SS2012 Menʼs Compilation Collectionsʼ Review Phillip D. Johnson

Photos by Cheryl Gorski and Phillip D. Johnson Once upon a time, in an era not so long ago, 7th on Sixth/CFDA/IMG used to have the New York Mens' fashion shows separate from the more crowded schedule of the womens' shows. And it was beautiful. It was four days of relative calm and you could feast upon the collections at a pace not readily available during the womens' show week. The parties were fun, not stressful, the designers were more relaxed and somewhat friendlier, the drinks flowed like water and the swag were gender-appropriate. But then, to save money, the mensʼ shows were folded into the women fashion week schedule and most of the menswear designers eventually went offshore and instead showed their collections during the Milan and Paris menʼs fashion weeks in July and January of each year. Over time, some of the menswear designers came back to the tents but it wasnʼt the same. Oh well, change is the only constant in our lives and sometimes itʼs actually a good thing, although I am not always so sure about that.

For the Spring/Summer 2012 shows at Lincoln Center and around Manhattan, there was a good complement of menʼs wear designers showing their collections this time around, so you really did get a sense of the full spectrum in menswear for the next six months. Some collections surprised me; others were what I expected them to be. And I was able acquaint myself with a few collections and designers that I have never covered before.

I have long been a Parke + Ronen fan from their first show in South Beach at the first IMG/7th on Sixth Miami Swim Shows. I have followed their careers over time and I loved their SS2012 collection. Ronen Jehezkel and Parke Lutter were initially known for their near perfect swim trunks and board shorts and it was a good thing. They were among the first group of designers, along with Vilebrequin and maybe a couple others, to really try to elevate the menʼs swimwear market and wean American men from the tacky, loud and ob-

Parke + Ronen

noxious board shorts that you saw on the beach. They gave their customers many options: from 2-inch to 8-inch length board shorts, striking color-block, print and solid color swim trunks that Parke + Ronen made you look good and generally an air of fun that comes as part of the DNA of the line. Quietly and carefully over time, they have expanded into fitted jackets in linen and stretch poplin, city shorts, collared shirts in stretch cotton and cotton voile fabrics, expressive t-shirts, exercise wear and into various accessories. They opened a store so that they can properly express their design point of view without outside interpretation from the department stores that carry their line. They became a BRAND. Pantone's Color Forecast for SS2012 was well represented here: Lovely reds (rust red, deep red), desert orange, brilliant blues (turquoise, Azure, powder - loved them all), mustard, light green – all in balance with black, ivory and slate gray. The jackets were slim cut with rounded shoulders and high armholes. The swim trunks were cut to fit and sexy without being vulgar, their pants were equally as fitted and tapered as it hits the ankle. Short of the speedo-like swim trunks

– I simply donʼt have the body for them - I would wear everything else in this collection. An especially

nice touch was the rose-stamped white tank tops for the finale and those gorgeous Walk-Over saddle shoes used throughout the collection. (More on the Walk-Over saddle shoes in a later article.)


Parke + Ronen

Parke + Ronen Parke + Ronen

Parke + Ronen


Parke + Ronen


I look forward to the Nautica show/presentation every season because I know what to expect. That's not necessarily a bad thing. The collection is going to be very beautiful and I am going to like it all. This season, the clothes were beautiful (as well as extremely functional) and I loved all of it. Well, maybe not the flag polo shirts. I mentally salivate over the sailing jackets and windbreakers. I silently envision myself in the double face blazers and shawl collar sweaters with leather elbow patches – very Professor Higgins. I thought about when and where I would wear the ripstop tech trench coats (in blue, yellow and orange) and the various other jackets and pants in silk linen, wool, cotton seersucker and cotton oxford would all fit right here right now in my present wardrobe. I am a fanatic when it comes to watches and the rubber big-faced watches the models were wearing was right up my alley. It's times like these that one wishes they had an unlimited clothing allowance. Every season, I fall in love with one singular collection. This season it was the Simon Spurr's. I received a latenotice invite to his show from a friend and I was pleasantly surprised by what I saw. Mr. Spurr's design aesthetic is one that is an equal mix of his English upbringing (he grew up in Kent, England in 1974, studied in London and graduated from Middlesex University in 1996 with a B.A. in Men's Fashion Design) and his full-on embrace of the American sportswear legacy he learned from his years of by working with Nautica

Nautica

Hedi Slimane, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. His design approach is appreciated for its attention to proportion, slim fitting suits that is modern in their cut, and sophisticated precision tailoring that has its roots in Savile Row. Garments are individually designed and manufactured to the highest standards in Italy, France and the United States using the finest Italian, English and Japanese fabrics. For Spring, Mr. Spurr was inspired by English estate dressing and that influence was seen in the body-con jodphur pants worn with riding boots. But I was bowled over by his beautifully-cut three-piece suits and his out-of-the-box black & blue striped suit. These pieces definitely showed that English-Savile Row influence. I likewise would kill to own his pink & white striped barbershop quartet shirt, that rocking oxblood red leather jacket, the collarless quilted leather jacket and his gray long-sleeve shirt with black laminated swirls. Where he showed an ability to push the boundaries were his blue/gray double-breasted jacket with leather sleeves, the raincoat with leather sleeves, the blazer with laminate lapels and where he replaced shirts with open weave mesh shirts. I am going to keep him on my radar. He's talented, young and is a major star in the making.


Nautica

Nautica

Nautica Nautica

Nautica


Nautica Nautica


Perry Ellis

The Perry Ellis men's line is one of those collections that, like Nautica, has a built-in audience and a reputation for quality, strength of character and uncomplicated and clean lines. Over the past five years, under the stewardship of Creative Director John Crocco, the Perry Ellis line has begun to expand beyond its borders; and he has sought to keep its basic DNA while venturing into more “trendy” environs. It has not always gone smoothly but his spring-summer 2012 line is one of the best collections he has done in many years. Because he kept the pieces comfortable and easy-fitting while expanding the horizons, the Perry Ellis man is sure to embrace this new direction. Inspired by his recent travels to Arizonaʼs Painted Desert, Mr. Crocco drew inspiration from the desert landscapes and the general sense of being he experienced. Colors ran the gamut from burnt tones of yellow, red, coral, brown and tan to blues, lavender desert sage, vanilla, and stone. Set against a backdrop of a desert landscape, the models showed the pieces to great effect. Early standouts in the collection includes his peach and beige striped polo shirt, the must-have coral cotton windbreaker, the white linen/cotton hooded shirt, and my favorite, a light gray/stone linen/cotton safari shirt. I truly coveted the linen/cotton multicolored

striped t-shirt (paired with a light gray/stone windbreaker), the brilliant blue cotton cable sweater, the all-purpose linen/cotton blue/black plaid sports jacket and all the slim jeans and Bermuda shorts. And then you have both the cool coated linen white peacoat and its light gray/stone counterpart (shown early in the show). Truth be told, with the exception of a couple pieces, I want and will wear everything in this collection. Mr. Crocco showed a lot of Capri pants; and in the past that would have been highly unusual. But I have seen men in New York City and elsewhere this summer wearing them and they seem fine with it. Maybe he knows something we don't. Either way you look at it, this was a very good collection. Designers at New York Fashion Week opened the door to what had to be some of the most colorful collections we have seen in a Perry Ellis long time. At the same time, other designers, like Libertine's Johnson Hartig, went the other way by focusing on muted pastel tones, whites and/or a black and white color palette. And it was not in the least bit boring. You may think that this black and white canvas would be restrictive to Mr. Hartig; but no. He found new and exciting to present his viewpoint while still staying within his stated color palette. He showed white dresses with black circles (and the reverse). He mixed it up by pairing black and white stripes top with a graphic XOXOXO print skirt, a black poodle skirt with a bold white floral print, a black and white bamboo print jacket with a corresponding black and white circle skirt and a gorgeous white trench coat with that same bold black flower print graphic minimally scattered over the coat's surface. For men, it was all about the black jacket with a white piano key graphic, bamboo print city shorts, a striking gray/black/white suit with a . white shirt with a black collar. Of course, one can't fail to mention the men's white swim trunk with black circle graphic or its black and white bamboo print counterpart. Although this was truly a fun and youthful collection, there were brief moments of luxurious sophistication in his gray collarless jacket with black circle paired with a bamboo print top and a gray pencil skirt with black circle graphic. (Very Coco Chanel) One also cannot forget the groovy black and white paint splatter platform shoes worn by the women. They stood out, even in this maximum/minimalist collection. The only spot of color was a splash of red presented in a silk wrapped gown in a stripped print with a white hue.


Perry Ellis Perry Ellis

Perry Ellis

Perry Ellis


Cheryl Gorski, our intrepid photographer, is totally in love with the Bespoken line. Co-designed by two sets of brothers (James, Liam, and Sam Fayed and Paulo and Carlos Goncalves), the line came about when the brothers discovered that their shared love of music extended to a shared passion for stylish and well-crafted clothing. Their obsession with old Savile Row traditional tailoring is seamlessly merged with their own interpretation of today's modern styles, thus creating a hybrid aesthetic that has founded an ever-increasing audience in the retail marketplace. In their own words, they are “part Savile Row, part Rock'n'Roll� with an underlining subversive nature that comes through in all their designs. They take their work seriously but still injects a sense of fun. For spring/summer 2012, they showed extremely well-cut suits made from washed and treated fabrics, banded collared shirts that also had that same soft, washed feel, and soft shouldered jackets. That signature military/working man's gear merged with upscale, classic fabrics and construction techniques displays a sure, tightly edited hand. Nothing here is filler. Every look, every piece has earned its way into the collection. They also debuted their new spring-summer shoe styles. I am partial to the Derby Weave Saddle shoes myself but I wouldn't turn my nose up at the Chester Boot either.

The sister-brother team behind Nicholas K strongly believes in layers. And they do it very beautifully. The New York Citybased based design company, founded in January of 2003 by siblings Nicholas and Christopher Kunz, Nicholas K is based on the intent of providing sophisticated customers with modern classics that becomes wardrobe staples. This was also one of few collections shown that avoided riotous color altogether. Instead, they used white, light gray, sage green, black, (light) seafoam, and ink blue, with very little prints or patterns. But it all comes down to their layering of the pieces. For the women, each look was made up of numerous light, fluid layers in neutral colors. More than not, it was an asymmetrical jacket or coat on top of a gypsy dress with legging and some truly killer platform boots. For the most part, the end result was a lightweight visions of loveliness. The effect was one-part Stevie Nicks at her most ethereal and one-part Bianca Jagger in her Studio 54 days (hence the long scarves wrapped around the head and off to the side). Sometimes there were one too many layers but it is proof that this collection is about separating the individual pieces more than the whole.

Bespoken

Bespoken

Bespoken


Bespoken

Bespoken


Bespoken


The mens' looks were a little more cohesive and pulled together. There was definitely something more earth-bound (if that was the right way to look at it) about the tank tops, shirts , soft leather jackets and athletic-cut pants that was shown on the male models. I can't see most men wearing some the asymmetrical jackets with big shawl collars but I can see them in the hoodies, the suede camp shirts, the slim cut drawstring pants, the soft shouldered jackets, the trench coats, the lightweight sweaters and the various shorts. Willis & Walker, a lifestyle collection created by former NBA star Kevin Willis in collaboration with Marcraft Apparel Group, has discovered an underserved niche market in menʼs wear: Clothes, shoes, suits, pants, sport jackets, sweaters, tuxedos – all specially designed for the man who is 6ʼ3” and over. All good designs come from a place of necessity. (Vera Wang became a designer because she couldnʼt find a wedding dress that she liked. So she created her own.) Mr. Willis grew up with limited options when it came to finding clothes that fit his 7-foot frame; and it was only because his mother made his clothes were he able to develop a sense of style that fits with his outsized proportions. His first ever runway show at was inspired by the Temptations and their signature suits; and it was surprisingly

Bespoken

good. I loved his velvet jackets with contrasting leather piping. I thought his various three-piece suits were sharp looking and he styled the show rather well, showing his generally muted toned suits with unexpected bursts of color in the accompanying shirts and ties. His tuxedos came in three styles: one-button, two-button and six-button double-breasted. He showed lightweight suits made up of a blend of wool and cashmere all the more special with hidden paisley silk linings. Mr. Willis is definitely NOT afraid of color at all. Mostly because it was matched with black, brown, windowpane, cream/ivory and navy, the colorful aspects of the collection seemed properly represented but not garishly loud.

Bespoken


Richard Chai Love

For the Spring/Summer 2012 shows at Lincoln Center and around Manhattan, there was a good complement of men始s wear designers showing their collections this time around, so you really did get a sense of the full spectrum in menswear for the next six months.


The double-breasted jacket has emerged as the biggest trend coming out of the international men始s fashion shows and I am not the biggest fan of these jackets. But as shown on the runway, they worked for Mr. Willis. I adored the various velvet jackets because ultimately, they are the most versatile pieces of this collection. Mr. Willis was an athlete and while I am sure that the average guy will want to wear some of these pieces,

they were designed for men with athletic broad shoulders, small waists (earned from eating the proper foods and exercise, of course) and long legs.

talented Haider Ackerman, in that they have torn asunder the traditional suit and gives it a raw-edged feel with asymmetrical hemmed jackets, almost shawl-like lapels and collars, pants that are palazzo-ish with broad waistbands. They took the stuffing out of their jackets, leaving them loose and round-shouldered, with some of them sporting lapels that are mere slivers of leather. In other instances, the jacket's lapel is as long and as wide as a scarf, also in black leather.

And this market continues to grow, even with the bad economy, because these men don始t necessarily want to shop at Big & Tall stores. They want quality, a good fit in luxurious fabrics that will hold up well over time. You can始t always find that at Big & Tall stores. Mr. Willis also debuted a line of oversized, high-end travel bags made of deconstructed leather. Again necessity was the foundation because these bags comes a sturdy flat bottom (they can stand on their own and not wobble) and they expand in size depending on how much stuff you are carrying. That's meaningful because I know that I could have used one of those coming home from fashion week.

Designers Laurence Chandler & Joshua Cooper of the New York Citybased Rochambeau line are very much influenced by New York City; its urban surroundings, its culture and the way it shapes our lives. They are freethinkers; and they take what is somewhat mainstream, turn it on its ears and challenge us to open our minds to the raw, the new, the different. Messrs Chandler and Cooper reminds me of the wonderfully

Simon Spurr Simon Spurr


Simon Spurr

Michael Bastian

Simon Spurr

Michael Bastian

Simon Spurr

Michael Bastian


Lacoste Lacoste

J. Crew


Nicholas K

Nicholas K

Nicholas K


Gant by Micheal Bastian

J. Crew


Libertine

Libertine


New Silhouette SUN Collection Makes a Striking Style Statement at New York Fashion Week

Silhouette Optical, a subsidiary of Silhouette International, the Austrian eyewear manufacturer founded in 1964 by Arnold and Anneliese Schmied in Linz, launched its SUN 2012 Collection at the Spring/Summer 2012 Fashion Week at the Daily's Style Sessions Lounge at the Time Warner Center. A visionary design with optimum function for the best vision, comfort, and style, Silhouetteʼs decades-long involvement perfecting its sunglasses development has resulted in this extraordinary collection; the perfect combination of rimless eyewear, design and optimum protection from the hazards of the sun.

About the 2012 collection, he says, "The demands of the wearers of sunglasses are becoming more and more individual. Our challenge is to anticipate and recognize this. With the new 2012 sun-

glasses collection, we are not following a trend but making statements."

The line consists of two collections, Lifestyle by Design (for that chic look and good vision in the sun) and Action by Design (for sporting moments in the sun) and 16 individual models. The two collections offer perfect sun protection and meet individual requirements as they provide high design and great comfort in wear due to incomparable lightness and state of the art hand-craftsmanship.

The collection, Lifestyle by Design offers chic, bold look and includes:

The Silhouette Icon: Ultralight and without screws or hinges, it's the most authentic Silhouette sunglasses available and combines unmistakable deA team of three designers - Angela Strecker, sign with the greatest comfort in wear in a range of Gerhard Fuchs and Martin Preuer-Lackner - and seven colors and has the option for polarized and Mr. Arnold Schmied (who was himself closely in- prescription lenses. volved in the development of the new line) has produced a collection with unusual, mainly rimless The Silhouette Adventurer: Robust and flexible at designs that 'bears the signature of the three Sil- the same time as a result of using titanium, it's a houette designers'. and is justifiably proud of it. classic for men with style and a statement for women that enhances the classic aviator with the The process of creating their latest collec- use of high-tech titanium. It is available in four diftion involves research, design product develop- ferent lens shapes, three colors and two different ment and production, has resulted in an styles. 'extraordinary 2012 sunglasses collection'.Åh says Silhouette's co-owner and Chairman Arnold Schmied.


A visionary

design with optimum function for the best

vision,

comfort,

and style


The Silhouette Class: It incorporates some elements from watch design and reinterpreted it with distinctive design with metal effects; these rimless sunglasses are also available with polarized sun protection lenses in two different models. It is designed primarily for men.

The Silhouette Cosmopolitan: Adapted with various materials to mimic 80始s glamorous style and with leather decorating the temples of its fashion forward frames, the Silhouette Cosmopolitan is available in a variety of colors ranging from apricot to purple. The Silhouette New Horizon: A classic rimless shield made with high-tech titanium combines lightness and style to add glam to any appearance.

The Silhouette Center Court: A modern pair of sunglasses that stay put with movement and do not slip thanks to optimum fit. Both the shapes and the colors of Silhouette 'Center Court' uses titanium and light SPX eyewear. The Action by Design collection is ideal for a leisure-sport style and includes:

The Silhouette Pro: A combination of state of the art sunglasses technology and dynamic design, it has strong color accents and a sporty wrap-around design.

sophisticated lens system, the option of prescription lenses and much more."

Brand Director Andreas Aschauer-Martinelli stresses the importance of individuality within the collection: "With this well-designed system of sun protection lenses, Silhouette emphasizes the idea of individuality because for every requirement, every need, every personality and every face there is a pair of individual Silhouette sunglasses in the SUN 2012 collection."

The collection was one of the highlights of The Daily始s Style Sessions Lounge as celebrities and fashion insiders were encouraged to accessorize their look with the artful and bold color combinations that embody the new collection and cater to individual needs. With 11 styles to choose from, in mood enhancing colors, guests like Gossip Girl始s Kelly Rutherford and Matt Settle added a touch of glam to their everyday look and were photographed in a Silhouette photo-booth for the opportunity to see themselves donning the futuristic styles.

The Silhouette Trophy: This model meets the reThe Silhouette SUN 2012 Collection will be availquirements of sporty classics with the wrap around able at specialty retailers starting January 2012. look and light design. Suited for many situations, the Silhouette Trophy is intended for wear by both men and women.

Klaus Schmied, co-owner and the Director of Technology, Research and Production, is very much proud of his company's esteemed reputation within the sunglasses and eyewear industry and especially satisfied with this collection: "Sunglasses are now one of the most important accessories all year round. Not only are they decorative, but more and more people are becoming aware of the real function of sunglasses. We want to meet these ever higher expectations _ paired with lifestyle and design _ so we offer many additional features such as polarized sun protection lenses, a



The Dos and

Don'ts of

Holiday 2011

Dressing by Phillip D. Johnson

Maddy Ruff is wearing a black Bandage BCBG Max Azria dress (available at Lord & Taylor).


If you are a society dame or a Junior League socialite, dressing for the upcoming holiday parties is a no-brainer. You are simply wearing more of the same clothing you wore to the Fire & Ice Ball in November, the three cancer benefits you attended in October, the Metropolitan Opera's Grand Opening Season Gala in September. You wearing the same jewels, the same fragrances, and even the same shoes.

Do Be A Drama Queen Show-off your “Stevie Nicks Witchy” self.

The rest of the year, you have to be moderate in your dress but now is the time to bring out the flowing palazzo velvet pants, the voluminous ÅgBatmanÅh cashmere cape, the fur vest (real or not) , the Fabulous Elizabeth Taylor flowing caftan and the Prince Valiant ÅgPoetÅh shirt or blouse. You mustn't wear them all at once, of course, but as long as you pay attention to the luxury factor of each piece, you are golden. It's better to be overBut for the rest of us, whose lives are, shall we say, dressed than to under-dress and stick out like a simpler, this is a treacherous time for us. You want sore thumb. After all, it's that time of year. to fit in but you also want to inject your personality. You want to go out all glamorous but you want to Add Some Color - Black may be your "go-to" party be comfortable as well. It's minefield out there. attire (ergo the Little Black Dress), and green and Whether it's a casual neighborhood drop-by, a fes- red may be too predictable, but now's a great time tive dinner at the boss's house or a formal affair at to expand your color options. Orange, yellows, your favorite restaurant in town, there's always a pinks, peach, pastels are perfect for winter parties reason to dress up and celebrate during the holi- this year and a refreshing surprise in a sea of day season. But here there simple rules to follow black. As long as it is the right shade of yellow, orthat will assure that you will have a good time, ange, pink, peach or pastel, you will do fine. Cream and the more subtly shades of whites are also dance up a storm and not embarrass yourself. good options for those of you who aren't brave As we mentioned in the intro, do dress with per- enough to go full hog on the color spectrum. sonality. This is the perfect time to show off your own individual style and be a little playful. This is the perfect time to mix your style metaphors: leopard print cocktail dress with zebra print stockings, your most killer heels with a somewhat demure aline dress. As along as you are happy with the end results, it's a go. The haters can hate all they want. It's your party and you will dance if you want to.

You are not a Christmas tree. You may be a traditionalist but now is NOT the time to wear red and green anything, and certainly not together as a set. Dressing in head-to-toe green or red is a definite "don't." The same goes for red and green plaid _ really red and green anything- this is not the time to explore your latent lumberjack tendencies. Even worse, avoid that ÅglovelyÅh sweater from Aunt Mary with green trees and that horrible red background. You may want to stay in her will but there are limits to what one must do to placate the person holding the pure strings.


Don't Try to Corner the Commodities Market - A little drama is one thing, but mixing your gold with silver, bronze, platinum _ it's all too much. If you MUST shine at a party, then stick to one shimmering piece - a metallic, jeweled shoe, a sparkling silver/emerald, diamond broach, a discreet white gold tiara, a satin, silver blouse or a sparkling gold clutch. Again, it's easy to get carried away, but you don't want to blend into the Christmas decorations either. Never Mix Work with Pleasure Unless You Cannot Avoid It - Going to a party right after a day at the office in your buttoned-up professional suit with your laptop handbag slung over your shoulder is only OK if it's a work-related event. But if it's a more festive occasion - say cocktails at eight, or a sit-down dinner in a white tablecloth restaurant at 9 pm, go home, take a shower, put on your evening-out make-up, throw on a nice dress and then go out to the party. If that's not possible, then make sure you have a dressier blouse, maybe a change of skirt or an evening pants, your good evening jewels and/or a dress shoe with you so that you can change in the ladies' room before heading out. Not only will you feel fabulous, it means a lot to your fellow dinner or party guests that you made the effort. Believe me, they will appreciate it.

Maddy Ruff is wearing a men's wear-inspired vested suit (provided by Sarah Mahoney Adrian Jules, LTD) and Calvin Klein shoes (available at Lord & Taylor) .


Know Your Key Pieces - You can survive the holiday party season if you have some or all of the following pieces in your wardrobe:

- The Caftan. It works for most shapes as the fabric is usually fine and glides nicely down both curvy and straight figures. Choose a color that really flatters you, and take care with size and pattern.

- The Maxi Dress. Even more popular this year. It can be tricky on petites (too much volume or length) or big busts with small hips, (sizes that fit the bust will be bigger elsewhere so can add unnecessary bulk) but shop around, as there are plenty to choose from. The skirt should be just skimming the floor, not halfway up your ankle or tripping you up.

- White trousers. White is big for summer (and fall/winter) and is a fabulous holiday look. You can go head to toe white if it works for you, or instead team it with your favorite seasonal shades. Choose lightweight cotton or linen and wide leg, palazzo or peg cuts to keep you cool. A word of warning: Winter white is right except when it comes to Visible Panty Lines. A trick Sarah Jessica Parker once mentioned in Vogue magazine is that if you a re wearing white or transparent clothing, check yourself at home to make sure that you won't experience negative coverage when you get to the party and encounter high voltage lighting where everyone can see your business clear as day.

not to drink at the party or someone who's looking out for you and make sure you get more safely and in one piece. After all, your

- Utility, tapered, or harem pants. Donʼft panic! You life is worth donʼft have to don the full army/masculine/desert more than a look _ there are simpler variations of these styles. They are airy, comfortable and can be rather ele- few drinks. gant. If youʼre wider on the hips or short in stature then minimize details such as zips, pockets, drap- At least, ing and volume and always wear with a heel. They look great in khaki, stone, grey or white, all of which I would are easy to paired up with colors or metallic s.

The Biggest fashion ʻDoʼ for the season is for you to be comfortable and to have a good time. Be mindful of your alcohol intake as not to do or say something you will regret the next day. If you are unable to drive at the end of the night, or want to have an all-out good time, please make sure you have a designated driver, someone who pledges

hope so.


Maddy Ruff is wearing a men's wear-inspired vested suit (provided by Sarah Mahoney Adrian Jules, LTD) and Calvin Klein shoes (available at Lord & Taylor).


Stephanie is wearing a Tadashi Shoji black velvet evening dress with bugle beading and sequin embellishment at the bodice.


Beauty Watch

with Dani Weiser: Holiday/Evening

Makeup

As a professional make-up artist with 20+ years in the business, I have long been on the receiving end of a product avalanche from the various cosmetics companies. Professional make-up artists are usually the first to receive samples of new products, the first to try out these products on models and their other clients and to send feedback to the respective companies. I have received products from companies big and small that over-promise and under-deliver on their claims. I have also received and used products that under-promise (no over-reaching narrative about how the product will find you a fiance and a fortune in gold under a rock, make you the most beautiful woman in the world, will make your children behave and love you) and in a pleasant surprise over-delivers to spectacular results. My experience with Artistry Beauty and Skincare is the latter. They didn't promise the world but they gave me the moon and the stars. Here at Fashion Maniac, we recently shot our holiday dress and beauty editorial for our December issue and I primarily used cosmetics and skincare products from Artistry. The kind folks at Artistry, a subsidiary of Amway has a clear mission statement: We believe that beauty is derived from truth. Truth that comes from careful, modern scientific discovery, and the belief that every woman始s individual beauty should be celebrated. This philosophy and the hard work they have done to create products that enhance, not damage, your skin has placed them among the worlds top five, largest-selling, premium skincare brands, and among the world始s top ten, largest-selling, premium cosmetic brands, according to Euromonitor International Limited; Beauty and Personal Care database, premium cosmetics sector, global 2009 RSP, global brand name classification

For our photo-shoot, we worked with women from across the age spectrum: a 40-year-old woman, a 20-year-old young woman and a 13-year-old teenager. Across the board, Artistry Beauty and make-up line performed beyond expectations. I first used the Time Defiance Cleansing Treatment ($31.65) to gently removes dirt and excess oil while it also improves the skin始s firmness and elasticity. I like that it is formulated with non-irritating ingredients, while serving to calm the skin, increasing its resistance to the visible signs of irritation. Time Defiance Cleansing Treatment moisturizes only specific areas of skin that need hydration and is ideal for most skin types. I followed up with the Time Defiance Conditioning Toner ($33.20) and the line's Time Defiance Day Protect Lotion SPF 15 ($62.25).


Stephanie is

wearing a cream empire silk

organza cocktail dress with jewel embellished bodice from Adam with

Christian Dior shoes.


enhance the eye with a single swipe of the pencil), Rimmel's Sexy Curves Mascara, a well known English makeup brand sold in places like Target and Rite Aid (I love this mascara, it is affordable and comes in with all different brushes to suit your various need) and Revlon Matte 009 Brown eye Shadow (also very affordable and long lasting). The gold on her lid, which is great for night and very flattering. The 3D Face powder, I found, can also be used as highlighting anywhere on the face, goes on smoothly and comes in 6 different shades.

On Sophia, our beautiful and glamorous 40-yearold, I used Artistry's Sheer Coverage Lip Gloss in Precious Pink (10-9633, $20.00) and the Artistry 3D Face Powder in Shimmer Coral (11-0079 $27.70) and I couldn't be more pleased with the result. The Artistry Lip Gloss is a sheer color designed to glide on evenly with a single stroke; and lightly flavored with natural pomegranate, I found that the color was natural yet shiny, stayed on the model's lip longer than most I have used, and the accompanying brush made it easy to apply anywhere, anytime perfectly. The face powder falls in line with the movement within the beauty industry to give the customer multiple options for a fair price. With five softly shimmering shades, I was able to create a contours and shadows on the cheekbone, and once dusted on the cheek, it created a blushing effect that was complementary to my model's skin tone. On Sophia's eyes, I used Artistry's Automatic Eyeliner Pencil Refill in Bronze ($12.50, which I found to be not the least bit oily, was dry enough to not smudge and wet enough to


I used Artistry's Sheer Coverage Lip Gloss on all our other models, MAC Cosmetics' Half Red Lip Liner, MAC's Blush in Hush-a-Bye and Coy Girl, Clinique's Brow Shaper 01 for the lighter brow on some of our models and Brow Shaper 07 for a darker brow on the others, and Smashbox High Definition Light Concealer. For the highlight under the brow, which always helps to lift the eye, I used Bed Head's White", which is a great subtitle highlight and last until you go to bed. I used Dior Skin Spray Foundation (available at Sephora, and at the Dior beauty counter at various department stores) on all our models because it goes on flawlessly and feels like airbrushing. But you have to be careful as you only need to spray for a few seconds before it gets heavy and you end up redoing it. Additionally, I used Dr. Jart Beauty Balm, an amazing moisturizer and foundation in one that is also great for a light coverage as seen on Gabrielle, our youngest model. To finish off all the faces, I used Make-Up Forever's High Definition Powder. This is a MUST because it sets your make up for up to 12 hours; and something I have deployed over the years when working on all-day photo-shoots, movie sets, and television shoots where actors and models are working under harsh lighting and has to look beautiful all day. It's likewise a great product to use for a bride on her wedding day. She's likely to be out front all day at the church and reception and to cry at some point during the day. When used at home, if used sparingly, it can give you that flawless face you are looking for for a professional appearance and last you for months before being depleted.

Savannah is wearing a short min & Half cloth i metallic d ing ,and a S ress availa ilk "fringe" ble at Half cocktail dre ss from Ann Taylor


Sophia is wearing Jay Godfrey Black silk chiffon cocktail dress with gold sequin detail, Vera Wang green silk organza evening dress, silk evening shoes by Yves Saint Laurent. Red & Black embroidered top from Lotions and Potions, Christian Dior silk tulle skirt. Marchesa silk evening gown with hand sewn embroidery on bodice. Adam silk chiffon evening dress, Escada rhinestone embellished shoes. Pearls came from the model's own collection.


Sophia is wearing Adam's cream silk charmeuse cocktail dress with rhinestone embellishment on the shoulder, Shoes by Christian Dior,



Gabrielle is wearing a

short gold metallic mini

dress (available at Half & Half clothing) and a

long velvet gown with

red chiffon ruffles from

designer Sebastiana

Piras of Atelier


“

Here at Fashion Maniac, we recently shot our holiday dress and beauty editorial for our December issue and I primarily used cosmetics and skincare products from Artistry. The kind folks at Artistry, a subsidiary of Amway has a clear mission statement: We believe that beauty is derived from truth. Truth that comes from careful, modern scientific discovery, and the belief that every womanĘźs individual beauty should be celebrated.

�


Dani Weiser is a 20+ year veteran of the beauty wars and have served as a make-up artist for Julia Roberts and other celebrated actors and actresses, worked on numerous film and television sets, photo-editorial shoots for international fashion and lifestyle magazines around the world, as well as private jobs and at-home appointments. For more information on any of the make up used in this shoot or just a asked a make-up and beauty question, please feel free to contact her at www.hollywoodmakeupartist.net FASHION MANIAC TEAM: Features Editor : Phillip Johnson All Photography & Managing Editor : Cheryl Gorski Styled By: Sophia Smith ,Susan Morreale, Whitney Curry, & Mario Lorenzo MakeUp : Dani Weiser Hair Stylist : Whitney Curry Guest Makeup & Hair : Andrew Brown

All Jewelry provided by : Lotions and Potions ,789 Elmwood Ave , Buffalo, (716) 886-6457 www.lotionsandpotions.com ADAM www.shopadam.com 5454 Main St Williamsville NY 716-630-6410 Half & Half clothing 1088 Elmwood Ave , Buffalo 716-881-4147 www.halfandhalfclothing.com Designer Sebastiana Piras of Atelier 820 Elmwood Ave 716-332-6935 www.sebastianapiras.com Sarah Mahoney Adrian Jules, LTD.2930 Monroe Avenue Rochester, New York 14618 585.381.1111 facebook: facebook.com/AdrianJulesCustomClothiers Shoe Fly 801 Elmwood Ave ,Buffalo (716)-886-3595 www.ShoeFlyNY.com


Book Beat Phillip D. Johnson

Dior Couture

by Patrick Demarchelier (Rizzoli New York)

I completed my Holiday 2011 Gift Guide too soon. A book I would sure to have included, Dior Couture by Patrick Demarchelier (Rizzoli New York), is one that I, myself, would have loved to have received under my Christmas Tree (if I had bothered to put one up). Released in early December, Dior Couture is a portfolio of over 150 iconic dresses, gowns, suits and coats from the entire era of Christian Dior Haute Couture (1947-2011), including pieces designed by Christian Dior himself and those of his successors, Yves Saint Laurent, Marc Bohan, and John Galliano. Each of these beyond beautiful portraits were shot by legendary French fashion photographer Patrick Demarchelier whose work is regularly featured in leading international fashion and lifestyle magazines including the various international Vogue editions, Harper's Bazaar (ditto), Elle (ditto), Vanity Fair (ditto), and many others. Mr. Demarchelier is also famous for being the official photographer of the late (and much missed) Princess Diana of Wales; and the first non-Briton to become an official photographer to the British Royal Family. (Of all the photographers that worked with Princess Diana during her life, he was the one that worked with her the most and the one she was most comfortable with.) Shot in various places -a movie studio in Beijing, Times Square in New York City and in Paris, where the settings included a private chateau, the Opera Garnier, avenue Montaigne, and at the world famous and ultra chic Hotel Plaza Athenee, the stunning clothing - vintage and contemporary - were worn by models, super and otherwise, including Natalia Vodianova, Gisele Bundchen, Karlie Kloss (who reigned supreme on the runways of London, Milan and Paris this past September at the Spring/Summer 2012 shows), actress Charlize Theron, and many others. According to Cathy Horyn, The New York Times Chief Fashion Critic, Dior Couture Ågis far and away the most gorgeous book on the house, established by Christian Dior shortly after the end of World War II.Åh Never one to not pull the curtain back and show the whole picture, Miss Horyn likewise acknowledged that ItÅfs not a complete record. That would require that they publish a doorstop of a coffee book that would include an image of every single piece in the archives. Mr. Demarchelier, working closely with the Dior Archives and its archivists, only skimmed the surface in this survey of the house talent. Naturally, there are prime examples of Christian DiorÅfs early work, like the famous 1947 bar suit with its neat peplum, and a natural-line Mirza dress in

chic polka dots from 1951. Yves Saint Laurent, who succeeded Dior at his death, in 1957, is represented with two killer dresses, including one in a deep-red floral print with a very modern sense of shape. Marc Bohan has two outfits. Italian designer Gianfranco Ferr_ gets none. And while Mr. GallianoÅfs work is well covered, glaring omissions are quite obvious. Ms. Horyn notes that none of his extreme examples of deconstruction shown in the 1999 Matrix show at Versailles are included, and thereÅfs nothing from the 2000 hobo collection. As an example of the wellthought out process behind this book, the first photograph represented the one thing that has not changed since the opening of the Christian Dior fashion house in 1946: A photograph that shows the members of the Dior ateliers assembled in front of the house, at 30 avenue Montaigne. Originally shot for American Vogue, this portrait of these indispensable men and women in lab coats with tape measures around their necks and perhaps pin cushions on their wrists expressed how valuable the technical know-how they possess is to the foundation of this storied fashion house. That, dear reader, will never change. Founded in Paris by designer Christian Dior in 1946, the House of Dior is one of the most venerable names in fashion, and continues to be the archetype of Parisian couture. With glorious images accompanied by thoughtful text by the former editor-in-chief of Interview magazine, Ingrid Sischy, and a special foreword by American artist Jeff Koons, Dior Couture is a is a book that anyone with an interest in fashion will want for their library and people who are not fashion maniacs like us should read, if only to see what true creative genius and pure fashion magic is. Born near Paris in 1943 to a modest family, Patrick Demarchelier spent his childhood in Le Havre with his mother and four brothers. In 1975, he left Paris for New York where he discovered fashion photography by working as a freelance photographer and learning and working with photography greats such as Henri Cartier-Bresson, Terry King, and Jacque Guilbert. In addition to his editorial work for fashion and lifestyle magazines, Mr. Demarchelier has shot international advertising campaigns for Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine, TAG Heuer, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Lacoste, Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. The additional advertising campaigns he has shot included Farrah Fawcett shampoo in 1978, the Brooke Shields doll in 1982, Cutty Sark, Giorgio Armani, GAP, Gianni Versace, L'Or_al, Elizabeth Arden, Revlon, Lanc_me, and Gianfranco Ferr_. In 2007, Christine Albanel, the French Minister of Culture, honored Mr. Demarchelier as an Officer in L'ordre des Arts et des Lettres (the Order of Arts and Literature), one of France's highest civilian honors.


Patrick Demarchelier


Hear It Now!

Hot on the heels of releasing Glee: the Music, The Christmas Album Volume 2, Columbia Records and Twentieth Century Fox Television dropped Glee: The Music, Volume 7 on Tuesday, December 6, 2011. Featured on this release is the widely praised mash-up of Adele's "Rumour Has It" and "Someone Like You", which soared to #1 on the iTunes Top Songs Chart with the official video garnering 5.3 million views on www.Vevo.com.


My name is Phillip and I am a recovering Gleek.

I say that because season two and most of season three (so far) has been so inconsistent, I am losing patience with Ryan Murphy. The only consistent thing coming out of Glee right now is the music. And even then, they drop a dud or two when you are not looking. But Volume 7 is fairly dud free. The jewels in the crown on this CD is the aforementioned mash-up Rumour Has It/Someone Like You, with Run The World (Girls), Fix You, and Last Friday NightĂ…h rounding out the selections you should hear first before delving into the rest of the songlist.

The mash-up of Adele's Rumour Has It and Someone Like You is the reason you watch Glee in the first place and/or buy the songs on iTunes every week. It was a masterful piece of work. I can't get enough of it. With Mercedes (Amber Riley) and Santana (Naya Rivera) as the leads, it doesn't get any better than this. Lea Michele and Adina Mendes on Somewhere is an unexpected pleasure but Kurt (Chris Colfer) needs to expand his musical repertoire beyond Broadway tunes. It's getting a bit old. Glee: The Music, Volume 7 will be available both in standard and deluxe versions at Target and other retail outlets. The full track listing for the standard version of "Glee: The Music, Volume 7" is as follows: 1.You Can't Stop the Beat 2.It's Not Unusual 3.Somewhere 4.Run The World (Girls) 5.Fix You 6.Last Friday Night 7.Uptown Girl 8.Tonight

9.Hot For Teacher 10.Rumour Has It/Someone Like You 11.Girls Just Want To Have Fun 12.Constant Craving 13.ABC 14.Control 15.Man In The Mirror

Glee: The Music, The Christmas Album Volume 2, is another story. It features the cast's festive renditions of such Christmas staples as "Little Drummer Boy," "Let It Snow" and "All I Want For Christmas Is You," as well as two original tracks "Extraordinary Merry Christmas" and "Christmas Eve With You". They did a fine job on the Christmas staples but I really enjoyed the new original tracks. They have the potential to be Christmas classics themselves. Fans will be treated to these Gleeful carols on a special Glee Christmas episode which will airs on Tuesday, December 13, at 8:00PM ET/PT on FOX. To date over 36 million Glee songs have been digitally downloaded, with over 11 million albums sold worldwide. Glee scored three consecutive #1 releases with Glee: The Music, Volume 3 Showstoppers, Glee: The Music, The Power of Madonna and Glee: The Music, Journey To Regionals. The RIAA has certified Glee: The Music, Volume 1 and Glee: The Music, The Christmas Album, Volume 1 Platinum (sales in excess of 1 million units) as well as Glee: The Music, Volume 2, Glee: The Music, Volume 3 and Glee: The Music, Volume 4 Gold (sales in excess of 500,000 units). Glee has also broken another record: They have over 300 songs on the iTunes Top Songs Chart; the most of any artist or group. Phillip D. Johnson


Alexander McQueen Forever An Appreciation

Phillip D. Johnson Photography by the author

of his mother's funeral, after leaving behind a note. He was 40 years old. Mr. McQueen was a master showman who, time after time, surprised us with his vast talent, know how to put on a spectacle, how to leave us warning more. He also knew how to cut a dress, a jacket and a pair of pants with the best of them.

He once said: ''I believe in depicting what's going on. I'm a big anarchist. I don't believe in religion, or in another human being wanting to govern over someone else. The themes that go through my shows will continue to." There was a reason he was considered one of the greatest fashion designers of his generation, one of the greatest designers of any generation, admired by his peers for his astounding technical ability and idolized by students for his near-fearless risk taking. His legacy is one of beauty, a sense of craft, a strong, confident silhouette; and the wonderful marriage of pairing tradition with the avant-garde. He was, for once, a true genius, a word that gets tossed around way too often and used when describing undeserving people. Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty was a survey of the career of Mr. McQueen, about control and change. According to The New York Times art critic, Holland Cotter, the show, or rather what始s in it, is a button-pushing marvel: ethereal and gross, graceful and utterly manipulative, and poised on a line where fashion turns into something else.

A lot has happened this year. We had the Arab Spring where nearly every Arab and/or Middle Eastern country was being torn asunder by the citizenry who were tired of being poor under prolonged economic dictatorships. We have the Occupy Wall Street protests that eventually ended up with the disenfranchised 99% of the world striking out against the economic oppression of the 1% that owns everything, including the banks and the multinational corporations. Now the disenfranchised in downtown Manhattan, mainly over-educated young people who are severely under-employed, has inspired many more in their generation to take up the gauntlet to Occupy San Diego, Occupy Washington DC, Occupy London, Occupy Berlin, Occupy Los Angeles, Occupy Barcelona, Occupy Zurich. You get the picture. Francois Lesage, Loulou de la Falaise and Evelyn Lauder, to name just three of the giants in the fashion industry who gave so much of themselves, died and our world is that much more dimmer from their loss. The Republicans decided to take up valuable television airtime and have (and will) conduct debate after debate until we lose patience and say 'enough'.

But there were some good things too. One of them was the most excellent Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Alexander McQueen, the British fashion designer and one of the world's most creative minds (ever), was found dead at his London home on Feb. 11, 2010. After a coroner's inquest, it was determined that he hanged himself, on the eve


Scheduled to close in mid-July, the show was a triumph. The exhibition attracted more than 661,509 visitors through to the end, is among the 10 most visited shows in the museumĂ…fs history, and the most popular special exhibition ever at the Costume Institute, which is housed at the museum. People came from all over the world to see the exhibit; the Museum sold over 100,000 copies of the exhibition catalog (at $45 a pop) in its building alone with thousands more sold via Amazon and other retail outlets, and the number of new members who joined the museum (allowing them to skip the line at the exhibition) from the opening through July 24 nearly doubled to 23,000 from a comparable period in 2010. The show was extended three times through to August 7th, with museum members allowed in at 8:30 am., an hour before the show opened to the public and additional hours were extended through to 9:30 pm., and 17,000 people bought $50 tickets to see it over the last eight Mondays, on a day when the museum is normally closed.

The exhibition was moving, wonderful, inspiring. So it gives great pleasure to show once again some of the images from the show, as taken at the press preview last May. With over 100 designs and accessories, the exhibit's fantastic theatricality, special effects that include a three-dimensional hologram of Kate Moss, as well as clothes including frightening concoctions made of feathers, razor clam shells, medical slides printed to look as if they were bloodied, resin vulture skulls and simulated human hair exposed Mr. McQueenĂ…fs work to a wide audience outside the fashion industry. The next exhibition at the Costume Institute will feature designs from Muiccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli, two other giants in the industry. I can't wait to see that one




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