Craft if Zari Embroidery

Jan 5st to 19th Jan, 2011

The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop On Jari embroider craft, sponsored by the O/o the Development Commissioner (H)

CRAFT OF ZARI EMBROIDERY “ M/s Sukhnag Ari Staple Emb. I.C.Ltd Nowpora Kawoosa, H/o Kawoosa Khalisa Block Narbal Left Side on Gulmar road ”

CONTENTS CONTENTS VENUE ORGANIZATION PROFILE INTRODUCTION

LIST OF 30 SELECTED ARTISANS OFFICER VISIT CRAFT OF ZARI EMBROIDER RAW MATERIAL & TOOLS PLANNING FOR NEW DESIGN DEVELOPMENT METHODOLOGY ADOPTED TO DEVELOP PROTOTYPES ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE WORKSHOP NEW DESIGN ELEMENTS PROGRESS CUM ACHIEVEMENT REPORT ACKNOWLEDGMENT CURRICULUM VITAE COPY OF EMPANELMENT LETTER PROTOTYPE LIST PROTOTYPE DRAWING PROTOTYPE

VENU VENUE OF THE WORKSHOP: - Ganiepora, Kowoosa, Budgam, Srinagar, J&K. The workshop is around 35 km away from Srinagar. The clusters in the area have been engaged with handicraft activity and have been producing export quality goods and have been sincerely going on with this vocation.

Technical guidance were to been offered.

The craftsmen are suffering from difficulties of raw materials and being the victims of middleman ship. The area has less population and new generation is getting away from the craft because of proper guidance about the craft and its growing future.

DATE OF THE WORKSHOP: 05th January 2011 to 19th January , 2011, Total 15 (Fifteen days)

ORGANIZATION PROFILE Organization Profile Name of the Organization:M/s Sukhnag Ari Staple Emb. I.C.Ltd Nowpora Kawoosa H/o Kawoosa Khalisa Block Narbal Left Side on Gulmar road

Name of the Chief Functionary:Nissar Ahmad Khan (NMC) Registration No.:RIC/KP/SRA/179 Contact person.Nissar Ahmad Khan(NMC) Phone No:9797779605 Areas of operation Handicrafts / Handloom / Welfare Sector.

Brief on activities in:Handicrafts sector the Organization is working for the development Handicrafts sector of the C/ps & Artisans and weaker section of its own jurisdiction. The Organization has performed various programmes

related to the Dev. of Handicrafts from its own Source.

The Organization already formed 25SHGs and 1365 artisans are registered through our society and new 1500 artisans are introduced in Handicrafts.

The Organization is regularly organizing Handicraft.Sectors Training programmes, awareness programmes etc.

With a view to encourage and enhance the Artisans of the state to promote economic activities the Organization is forming Self Help Groups among The Artisans and rural peoples.

The Organization is Also helping the Artisans to receive higher training In their respective crafts at J&K etc. The organization Also send to participate in Exhibitions in the state And outside also with a view to market survey.

The Is Also aware how artisans are benefit RGSSBY And JBY Insurance Scheme Geographical Area of activities:Jammu and Kashmir.

INTRODUCTION NTRODUCTION The government is making sustained effort to provide equitable opening out opportunities for women, which is increasingly being reflected among others in increased participation by women in local government and decisionmaking process, promotion of income generation activities and thrift and credit self help groups (SHG's) for women. To keep up with the competitions and to abreast them with the latest of designs and trends and marketing skills, the patrons organize Design Workshops / Projects under the professional guidance of experts and graduates from institutions like IICD ( Indian Institute of Crafts and Design) NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) and NID (National Institute of Design,) During these workshops, the artisans are helped to reinvent themselves as per the current trends to make them more commercially viable and then they are provided with the promotional platforms like exhibition and craft bazaar etc. Which are organized by the Govt. Along with the NGO throughout the country besides the other commercial links.

The 15 (fifteen) days Design & Technical Development Workshop on Zari embroidery, sponsored by the O/o the Development Commissioner (H), Ministry of textile Govt. of India, is one such step in this direction. The programme was organized by “M/s Sukhnag Ari Staple Emb. I.C.Ltd Nowpora Kawoosa� working for the promotion of the art & culture of the society and the overall upliftment of the underprivileged.

A detailed survey of the area was made to access the existing designs in Zari embroidery the available materials, technical inputs, production process and marketability of product etc. for the development of new which can be easily marketed.

Life style has been changed completely and accordingly there has been a change in color and design sense. It has been changed artistic & attractive. This artistic change in dress and other items is seen anywhere. Physical & mental change takes place during young age. During that period individual select dress and accessories according to choice of colors, patterns etc., not according to the family traditions. From this point of view and to get a good export order and marketable product, it was necessary to have a series of product, which will suit to the contemporary styles of living. This necessitates designer's intervention for finding a new solution to the traditional craft skills in terms of design, product modification and aesthetics for which, the programme was proposed.

The place selected for the workshop was ideally suitable for the purpose. Along with 30 (thirty) women craftsmen having trained or traditionally skilled inZari embroideryparticipated in the workshop and prepared 15(fifteen ) prototypes in two sets.

Officer Visit:

OFFICER VISIT Mr. Abdul Gani Assistant Director (Handicraft Department), Government of India, Ministry of Textiles, Srinagar.

Mr. Mr. Abdul Gani Assistant Director, Handicraft Department O/o The Development Commissioner, Ministry of Textiles address the gathering about the gathering about the training programme uses and its importance. The usefulness of the new designs they got trained, importance of ICICI, health card, Identity card and its features were explained.

He also explained about the welfare schemes features, uses and its importance meant by the Government of India for the welfare of the people.

They can take this card to anywhere else for taking treatment that is to any of the city/states inside India.

Mr. Magarya Mr. Magray Carpet Training Officer addresses the gathering about the gathering about the training programme uses and its importance. The usefulness of the new designs they are going to develop and how they can see this training in long run as livelihood.

CRAFT OF ZARI EMBROIDERY Zari embroidery work, a craft unique to Kashmir, is the bold hook work commonly done on upholstery drapery, shopping bags, bed spread and cushion covers.

In this the ground which is off white dasooti fabric is left unembroidered. Wool is the only thread used for this, and it is produced in Kashmir and dyed locally. Since most of it is produced in the form of yardage, a length of fabric is spread and many people sit together to complete their portion.

Outlines are done first, and then the forms are filed in. Jari designs are much larger than most of other embroideries.

The common pattern is abstracted forms of rose, lotus and iris and many kinds of leaves, grasses, birds etc.

Hook work done in garments is also known as chain stitch, although the entire surface is not covered with embroidery. This is done on shawls, stoles, gowns, pherans,kurtas, capes, ponchos etc.

The embroidery is done mainly with staple yarn and occasionally with rayon & wool. It is done with the same hook as used for crewel and other hook work.The paisley is the most common design along with florals and chinar leaves. Shawls may have an all over designs in chain stitch.

All over completely filled hook work is done on floor

RAW MATERIAL & TOOLS covering mainly by rayon thread RAW MATERIAL & TOOLS USED IN CRAFT OF ZARI EMBROIDERY Raw material used: wool fabrics of different color threads of silk, zari, cotton zari wire, nylon and polestar Embellishment materials glass, bed, color stone, metal threads Adhesive TOOLS & EQUIPMENTS USED: Adhesive Gun Hand needle Scissors Swing machine Iron machine Hardboard Stool Tracing paper Embroidery needle (ari) Wooden Frame (adda)

PLANNING FOR NEW DESIGN DEVELOPMENT PLANNING FOR NEW DESIGN DEVELOPMENT To achieve something fruitful result, planning is the must and it should be based on certain factsProductsProducts need to develop that they can relate their requirement, usages, and above all the capability in their society they were lagging at.

CostingAs it's the most important of the development and survival of any craft, business or species on earth that better and adoptable as per the situation can only deserve to survive in the competitive world. Increasing productivity, product and design development, standardization of product, technological up gradation for capacity building, quality control measures with well defined specifications, effective packaging, and networking through IT. Raw materialIt should be taken care that those raw materials should be in used, which are easily available at particular place to develop the prototypes. So that in coming future the craftsperson can easily get them.

MarketingAssimilation of market intelligence, product identification as per market segmentation, appropriate market and product mix, building up of business enterprises, relationship, management of assisting market outlets, test

marketing through financial exhibitions/fairs, effective publicity through appropriate media mix.

According to above mention facts: I selected & introduced the designs those are relevant with their identification on world map i.e. Life style/office accessories, utility items etc.

Introduced new techniques so that raw materials can be utilized more without wasting in Zari Embroidery crafts, which they can incorporate in their practice to save the time and increase their quality and production without altering their craft and their basic needs.

Keeping the traditional value in mind, I selected the product range and techniques were little altered from the traditional one as little change can be acceptable and they get that easily but drastic change can spoil the interest.

METHODOLOGY ADOPTED TO DEVELOP PROTOTYPES METHODOLOGY ADOPTED TO DEVELOP PROTOTYPES As per the survey, report reveals that what the major factors were playing around the area it got needed different strategy to follow. First of all they were need to convince about the market and its changing nature as per the time, required adaptation on that basis methodology adopted were as followsIdentifying there area of interest and specialization i.e. technique wise.

Different sources introduced to get the new design and ideas.

Let them taught the planning process and its importance.

Introduce them to concept development process.

Introduced them design and different product options.

Different techniques and utilize the raw material therefore maximum extends.

The whole planning process to get the objective one can understand the process as follows Planning of the product range Planning the days required Selection of designs & Embroidery material to develop product.

Creating design Making the products Costing Hand over to the marketing channel

ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE WORKSHOP ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE WORKSHOP On commencement of the workshop, the trainees were introduced with:Existence of the craft and its importance towards its heritage culture.

Importance of colors in craft.

To embellish them with the modern look.

Presentation and care of the craft.

Importance of the design and their use.

Methods of transferring a design.

Tools and material used.

Craft and its possibilities.

How to adopt as per the market requirements.

To utilize raw material to maximum extent by minimizing the wastage.

Under the guidance on day-to-day basic the trainee learnt designing, various techniques to translate the design as per desire and finishing part of prototypes development.

As the workshop processed, the trainee were also given practical training to implementation of various designs & techniques along with the knowledge about pre and post production planning and strategy.

NEW DESIGN ELEMENTS NEW DESIGN ELEMENTS For any workshop to be rendered successful, it's not only the designing that matters but as to how the whole programme is carried out matters a lot. Many factors are involved in the successful completion of a design workshop.

The first and the foremost is the comfort level that the artisans share with the designer and vice versa. Until the artisans are comfortable with the designer they won't be able to learn new things and ask questions to clarify their doubts.

In this design workshop, the main emphasis was given on the making of new products such as Sling Bags, cushion cover, salwar suit, scurf, bag , shawl etc.

Introduction of wooden beads and cotton organdy added new enthusiasm to the artisans and they became more receptive to the new ideas as such as amalgamation of these new accessories with their Aari skills was a completely new experience for them.

Stitching part was a little difficult as they didn't have the required knowledge and skills of stitching the designed items and moreover most of the products were new for them. So, on that front too, some considerable emphasis was given and patient instruction was imparted for the same.

But on the whole, the design workshop turned out to be

a successful venture for not only to the artisansbut for the designer as well as there was a lot of exchange of ideas with the artisans and each artisan had something new to offer.

PROGRESS CUM ACHIEVEMENT REPORT PROGRESS CUM ACHIEVEMENT REPORT A brief report on progress of the workshop and prototype developmentFIRST PHASE (05th January - 9th January, 2011.)

Workshop got inaugurated, than a brief introduction regarding the purpose of the workshop and whole planning regarding the work Discussed.

After inaugural speech to understand the skills level of craft women paper & fabric swatches distributed to the women to know their knowledge and skill about the craft. Then design of six set of the prototypes were taught &impression on respective base material on which prototypes suppose to get developed with all the details .Placement of the designs on base material got done and were distributed among them. Work started on respective prototypes at the same time.

SECOND PHASE (10th January - 13th January , 2011.)

One set of the six prototypes i.e. cushion cover, Shawls etc. got completed. At the end of this phase 13th January, 2011 other six set of designs of prototypes were got traced onto the respective base Material.

THIRD PHASE (14th January – 15th January , 2011.)

In this phase some small prototypes were got completed.

All the heavy work prototypes i.e. Feran, Shawls etc.

Were targeted. At the end of this phase 15th January due to fine and heavy work as well as short time period, fifteen set of sample got finished.

FOURTH PHASE (16th January - 19th January, 2011)

All the prototypes developed were finished that means thread cutting, hemming washing & stitching get done.

ACKNOWLEDGMENT

ACKNOWLEDGMENT I would like to thank the Office of the Development Commissioner, (Handicrafts), Ministry of Textiles, R.K.Puram, New Delhi and Mr. Mr. Abdul Gani Assistant Director, Mr. Magray Carpet Training Officer for giving me this opportunity to work in Jammu and Kashmir.

My sincere thanks to Mr. Nissar Ahmad Khan , Secretary, M/s Sukhnag Ari Staple Emb. I.C.Ltd Nowpora Kawoosafor extending all possible support to me in every possible manner to convert this workshop into a grand success.

And most importantly, my heartfelt thanks to all the ladies of Nowpora who participated in this workshop and took the challenge in a wonderful spirit to take out all the products which were allotted to them.

Loads of effort has gone into making this project possible. I would like to give my sincere thanks to all those who helped in the completion of this Workshop on Zari embroidery . .

CURRICULUM VITAE Name: Date of Birth: Permanent Address: Phone Number: Fax: Mobile No: E-mail: Work experience:

Harminder Singh 26.08.1980 Kudrat 43, Ganesh, Nagar, Jaipur - 302004 +91- 141-2620007 +91-141- 2624041 +91 9829558558 harminderdesign@gmail.com 10 years

Government Empanelment: Empanelled designer in the North Region, Office of Development Commissioner (Handcrafts) Government of India in year of 2005 Education qualification: Graduation in Craft product Design, from the Indian Institute of Crafts and Design, Jaipur, India.

Short course on material joint from National Institute of Design, India.

Short course on Consumer behavior, marketing from Indian Institute of Rural Management, (IRMA) Anand, India.

Short course on material joint from National Institute of Design, India.

Currently working: Working as Assistant Professor with Indian Institute of Crafts and Design, Jaipur India. Since 30.8.2008 International Work experience: Six-month working experience as interior design project manager with Best Building Complex Ltd, Dar es Salaam, Tanzania. 2008 Work experience in India:

Two years Designed decoction products, interior design for the 5 star hotels markets with A.S.A. Design pvt. Ltd., Jaipur, India.2006 One and half year experience of managing, marketing strategy, visual merchandises, Advertisement and pricing with Heirlooms Art gallery in the world renowned 5 star hotel, RamBagh Palace of Taj Group hotel, Jaipur, India.2005 Designing range of side tables and lamp bases using Sandstone, Leather, Wrought Iron, and Cast aluminum, iron, developed signage and accessories for Wheaton Design P.v.t.India 2001 Designed a range of desktop accessories for executives using the ancient technique of metal Sand casting Designwise India Pvt. Ltd, India.2002 Designed Sherwani buttons in enameled silver and translated the Kotwara logo Using multilaterals for Meera and Muzaffar Ali, Kotwara Studios, New Delhi.2000 One year's manage the factory of designer products, production, assembly, quality control, and production planning with Designwise India Pvt. Ltd, India.2004 Designed a range of tabletop accessories, Champaign Bucket and Candle stands combining Sterling Silver and Black Stone for Ravissant, New Delhi, India.2002 Work Experience development design projects: Conducted six months integrated Design Development Workshop under Gramin Vikas Trust (KRIBHCO) on Bamboo Craft at Galiyagot Village, Dungarpur District with the collaboration of Development Commissioner of Handicraft, India.

Conducted the Design Development Workshop under the Rural Artisans Welfare Society Jammu on Tapestry craft with the collaboration of Development Commissioner of Handicraft, India.

Conducted the Design Development Workshop for the export market under the Craft Design Center Jaipur, in collaboration with UNIDO and Orissa Khadi and Village Industries Association on Dokra lost wax casting at Barbarsingh, Orissa, India.

Conducted Designs Development Training with B.P.L. groups on send stone carving at Sikandra in Dosa district, Under

the Rural Non-Farm Development Agency (RUDA) (DPIP) District Poverty Initiating Program of the Work Bank, India.

Conducted the Design Development Workshop under the Rural Artisans Welfare Society Jammu on Tapestry craft with the collaboration Development Commissioner of Handicraft, India.

Conducted the Design Development Workshop under Federation of Indian Chambers ofCommerce and Industry (FICCI), in collaboration with UNIDO & DFID on Dorka at Baripada,Orissa, India.

Conducted Design Development Workshop under Development Commissioner of Handicraft, India.

Handicraft and RUDA, at Asnawar village in Jhalawad district Palm Leaf and Bamboo Craft in Feb. 2006, with Rural NonFarm Development Agency collaboration of Development Commissioner of Handicraft, India Developed designs in Teracotta and Meenakari in Rajasmand Distt. for the Molalla village under the World Bank for the rural livelihood expo. With Indian Institute of crafts and Design.

Design consultancy to The Rajasthan Small Industries Corp. Ltd. on request and call bases for the period of one year, India.

Coordinated the International Training of Trainers. Programmer. Under the Rural Non-Farm Development Agency (RUDA) & IPI - Italy, India.

Invented a new loom for the wooden Pidha handloom Weavers and provided Product and material Diversification during 6 weeks NGO training with Urmul, Vasundhara Gramothan Samiti, Lunkaransar, Rajasthan, India.

Craft Documentation of DOKRA craft of Bastar, Chattisgarh, India.

Reference: Available on request C.V. / Harminder Singh/ as up to 30-2-2010

COPY OF EMPANELMENT LETTER

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/001 Sukhnag/HS/001

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

16”X16” CUSHION COVER

650/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/002 Sukhnag/HS/002

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

CUSHION COVER

16”X16” 750/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/003 Sukhnag/HS/003

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

CUSHION COVER

16”X16” 650/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/004 Sukhnag/HS/004

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

16”X16” CUSHION COVER

550/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

Sukhnag/HS/005 /HS/005

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

83”X30” SHAWL

1800/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/006 Sukhnag/HS/006

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

SHAWL

83”X30” 1500/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

Sukhnag/HS/007 /HS/007

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

SHAWL

83”X30” 2000/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/008 Sukhnag/HS/008

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

SALWAR SUIT

25”X27” 850/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

Sukhnag/HS/009 /HS/009

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

CUSHION COVER

16”X16” 450/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/010 Sukhnag/HS/010

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

FERON

32”X42” 1850/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/011 Sukhnag/HS/011

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

FERON

32”X42” 1750/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

Sukhnag/HS/012 /HS/012

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

SALWAR

25”X27” 850/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

Sukhnag/HS/013 /HS/013

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

FERON

32”X42” 1950/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

Sukhnag/HS/014 /HS/014

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

25”X27” SALWAR

750/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE DRAWING

PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/015 Sukhnag/HS/015

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

25”X27” SALWAR

750/-

(Trade price for bulk order)

Designer :Harminder Singh

PROTOTYPE LIST PRODUCT CODE:

/HS/001 Sukhnag/HS/001

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

16”X16” CUSHION COVER 650//HS/002 Sukhnag/HS/002

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

16”X16” CUSHION COVER 750//HS/003 Sukhnag/HS/003

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

16”X16” CUSHION COVER 650//HS/004 Sukhnag/HS/004

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

16”X16” CUSHION COVER 550//HS/005 Sukhnag/HS/005

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

83”X30” SHAWL 1800//HS/006 Sukhnag/HS/006

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

83”X30” SHAWL 1500//HS/007 Sukhnag/HS/007

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE: PRODUCT CODE:

83”X30” SHAWL 2000//HS/008 Sukhnag/HS/008

SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

25”X27” SALWAR SUIT 850/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/009 Sukhnag/HS/009 16”X16” CUSHION COVER 450/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/010 Sukhnag/HS/010 32”X42” FERON 1850/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/011 Sukhnag/HS/011 32”X42” FERON 1750/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/012 Sukhnag/HS/012 25”X27” SALWAR 850/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/013 Sukhnag/HS/013 32”X42” FERON 1950/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/014 Sukhnag/HS/014 25”X27” SALWAR 750/-

PRODUCT CODE: SIZE in Inches : DESCRIPTION: PRICE:

/HS/015 Sukhnag/HS/015 25”X27” SALWAR 750/-

Designer Harminder Singh