| APRIL 2019 |
food
Café Culture
Bermuda’s favourite coffee hangouts
fish? where are all the
RECIPE
Café 4’s best selling multigrain bread
Food Tours
Apeti THE DEMISE OF AN INDUSTRY
THREE CHEFS SPICING UP THE ISLAND EXPERIENCE
Mom & Pop Shops
Family owned eateries that offer unique experiences
ONLY THE FRESHEST MEATS GUARANTEED!
Our friendly and knowledgeable staff can help you choose the perfect meats for any occasion.
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MARINATED
MAGSBDA
contents
APRIL 2019
COVER STORY
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Publications & Product Development Manager Carlene Spencer-Darrell
Creative Director Nikeisha Burrows
CONTRIBUTORS
Alejandra Ottley
The demise of an Industry OCEAN
Captain Matthew Jones on local fishing evolution
Annabel Cooper
ADVERTISING SALES & ADMINISTRATION sales@royalgazette.com
Advertising Solutions Specialist Shawn-Nae Cann Advertising Solutions Specialist Andre Bolotenko Advertising Account Executive Marguerita Carter Administrative Sales Support Margaret Mitchell
HOW TO:
FISH TACOS BY CHEF DANAI OF MARCUS’
ART & DESIGN Senior Digital Graphic Designer Terrina Nolan Senior Graphic Designer Christina White Senior Graphic Designer Byron Muhammad Graphic Designer Zaire Quenette-Lowe SPECIAL FEATURES EDITORIAL Digital Content Specialist Rajan Simons PHOTOGRAPHY Acting Chief Photographer Akil Simmons Photo Journalist Blaire Simmons RGMAGS.COM
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MOM & POP Three popular family owned businesses
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Gardening with Nasturtiums
OUTSIDE These beautiful flowers are tasty and provide health benefits too!
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Recipe Books and Ideas
Digital Content Specialist Rajan Simons Senior Digital Graphic Designer Terrina Nolan Web Developer & Template Manager Joseph To
BUSINESS
Chief Executive Officer Jonathan Howes Chief Financial Officer Cameron Poland Commercial Director Michael Grier
Mom and Pop Shops
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COOKING Great reads, a foodie influencer and a summer dish.
Café Culture
TRENDS Quirky coffee spots in St George’s and Hamilton
Established 1828; Incorporating The Colonist and Daily News (Established 1866). Member of the Newspaper Association of America. The Royal Gazette Ltd, a subsidiary company of Bermuda Press (Holdings) Ltd. BPH incorporated in Bermuda, publishers and printers of The Royal Gazette. The Royal Gazette Ltd’s Electronic Edition is published daily at www.royalgazette.com
Wine Line
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Fish Tacos
DRINK Where and how to taste wine in Bermuda
COOKING Chef Danai takes you to Mexico
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Food tour spices up the island Expeirence
PEOPLE Meet three tour chefs
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Best selling bread
PUBLISHED BY The Bermuda Press [Holdings] Ltd. PRINTED BY Bermuda Press Ltd.
RG Mags Bda is a series of Feature & Supplement products provided by The Royal Gazette.
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RECIPES Café 4’s multigrain bread recipe
VISIT
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FOR MORE ARTICLES ON FOOD AND RECIPES
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Nonna’s Kitchen is family owned company which offers homemade soups and chili, sandwiches and award winning salad bar. • We use fresh organic ingredients in our meals from local farmers. We always carry gluten free and vegan options. We now offer our Keto lifestyle customers fat bombs and keto clean drinks, which are available in Escpresso café. Please stop in for a visit!
2 convenient locations to serve breakfast & lunch along with your favorite hot & cold beverages: Nonna’s Kitchen on 4 Bermudiana road, Hamilton, HM 11 is open now Monday to Friday 7-3pm and Saturday 8-2pm 295-7687 • Nonna’s kitchen at Escpresso café in 4 Mill Creek, Pembroke, HM 02 is open Monday to Friday 7.30-4pm and Saturday 8-3pm Cell: 705-9030
e: manager@nonnaskitchenbermuda.com•w: www.nonnaskitchenbermuda.com Please consider us for your catering needs as well!
shops
MOM & POP
MOM&POP
RAJAN SIMONS PHOTOGRAPHY AKIL SIMMONS
These family owned eateries have not only food to offer, but a unique experience too.
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Strykz Bowling Lounge
The Flame Restaurant
The upgraded entertainment venue in St David’s is now equipped with a sports bar, arcade games and a dine in or take out restaurant — serving a wide range of items such as pizza, shrimp, salad and their popular 300 Club Burger.
Known for their local seafood and relaxing view of the crystal blue waters from North Shore, The Flame is the perfect choice for an authentic Bermudian dining experience. From breakfast to fish sandwiches and burgers, there’s something for the whole family.
Southside, St. David's
North Shore Road, Devonshire
Owner, Philip Bailey
Owner, Jennifer Seymour
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Eat, Drink & Explore Bermuda... one site, one bite at a time.
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Nonna’s Kitchen In their homemade soups, chili, sandwiches and an award-winning salad bar, Nonna’s incorporates fresh ingredients from local farmers. They also encourage customers to “Go Green” and offer vegan and gluten free alternatives.
Bermudiana Road, Hamilton & Mills Creek, Pembroke AWARDWINNING SALAD BAR
JOIN US AND BRING YOUR APPETITE!
Enjoy the flavors of Hamilton on this 3-3.5 hour walking food tour with tastings from 7 favorite establishments while tour guides highlight points of interest along the way. Excellent activity for locals, guests and visitors to the island. Tours offered Mondays thru Saturdays.
Tickets & more information: bermudafoodtour.com
Owner, Kat Smith RG Mags | rgmags.com
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Grilled Jerk Salmon with Steamed Cabbage and Callaloo Rice
Chef Wayne
W
ayne Cornwell has been a professional chef for over 30 years. His specialties are of course Jamaican food, but he considers himself an international chef because he can adapt to any cuisine style, from Asian to Continental. Wayne attended college in Jamaica, and has a catering certificate/degree. He loves his job, and is constantly looking for ways to expand his repertoire. Chef Wayne has been with the MarketPlace for 6 years and works at the Hamilton Food Court.
Grilled Jerk Salmon
Both Wayne and Dhejhay say tha and each one has shared
Traditional Jerk Season Marinate Salmon for two days then grill 10mins on each side
HAMILTON FOOD COURT Open 7am – 8pm
Chef Profiles
Chef Dhejhay
Korean Style Pork Ribs with Noodles and Grilled Asparagus
D
hejhay Bonifacio began his career as a waiter, but soon realized he wanted to be in the kitchen. He began in the kitchen as a dishwasher, and paid attention to what the chefs were doing. Soon he had an opportunity to move into a cooks position. His personal favorite style of cooking is ala carte Italian. He spent time cooking for the US Military in Afghanistan, and also spent several years in Dubai. Chef Dhejhay joined the MarketPlace in August 2017 and currently works at the PriceRite Warwick Food Court.
at cooking is their lifelong passion, their favorite recipe here.
WARWICK FOOD COURT Open 10:30am – 7:30pm
Korean Style Pork Ribs Soy Sauce Gojuchang Korean Chili paste Ground ginger Garlic Brown Sugar Boil the ribs for 1 ½ hours, marinade for two days then bake in oven at 350o for 30mins
Enhance your Food with
Café – Food Hall – Wine Gallery
Add a dash of health with every bite when you cook with Badia. Available at
Café : local and Italian pastries and fine coffee. Food Hall: authentic selection Italian products. Wine Gallery: warm array of wines & liqueurs. Non-GMO, Palm-Oil Free, Vegan & Gluten Free Options 3 Front Street l Open Monday - Saturday l 293-3663 000053656.indd 1
Khyber Pass, Warwick l Call: 236-6343 Open Monday to Friday 8:30am to 6pm Saturday 8am- 6pm Sunday 12noon to 5pm @huntsfood Hunts Food & Supplies Ltd.
4/8/19 4:49 PM
Open for Breakfast & Lunch Monday - Saturday
We pride ourselves on making food that uses
Fresh and Local Ingredients & No Preservatives Coffee . Tea . Breakfast . Pastries “You Pick - We Mix” Salad Bar “Create Your Own” Pasta Bar . Keto Diet Options Artisan Sandwiches . Homemade Soups Grab ‘n’ Go . Healthy Sushi . Smoothies Retail Bread & Pasta
Indoor & Outdoor Seating Perfect for Private Functions Windsor Place, 18 Queen Street, Hamilton I T: 441-295-8444 E: info@cafe4.bm I www.cafe4.bm I Facebook: @Cafe4Bermuda
OUTSIDE GOOD EATIN’
Nasturtiums GARDENINGwith
DOREEN WILLIAMS PHOTOGRAPHY AKIL SIMMONS
These edible flowers are found in Bermuda right after the hurricane season (so, Jan, Feb, March and April). Everything on the plant can be used from the beautiful bright yellow, orange and sometimes burgundy colours, to the leaves and seeds.
Nasturtiums are very high in vitamin C. The seeds that kill parasites in the body, also can be used like capers. The beautiful flowers can be used in cookie recipes, jam, bread, butter and so much more. The round green leaves can be baked and eaten like kale chips. A TOUCH OF BEAUTY When it came to eating these plants, nasturtiums weren’t consumed until it was taken to the east, where they were eaten and used for tea. Nasturtium carries a mildly peppery flavour with an aroma reminiscent of mustard. For some time, it was also known as “Indian cresses” due to the similar flavour profile between nasturtium and watercress, not to mention, they were introduced from the Americas (then known as “The Indies”). Now, they are a great way to kick up your salads, adding a brilliant punch of colour. More chefs around the world are using it to create absolutely stunning plates of art. Many wedding cakes now are also decorated with nasturtiums, giving them life. NOT JUST A PRETTY FACE Both the leaves and petals of the nasturtium plant are packed with nutrition. They have the ability to improve the immune system, tackling sore throats, coughs, and colds, as well as bacterial and fungal infections. These plants also contain high amounts of manganese, iron, flavonoids, and beta carotene. Studies have shown that SOCIAL the leaves also have antibiWebsite: wildherbsnplantsofbda.com otic properties, and is used Facebook: Wild Herbs N Plants of Bermuda in traditional medicine, Instagram: bdawildherbs treating a wide range of illnesses and conditions, such as hair loss. It’s suggested that they are the most effective before flowering. n
Baby greens with roasted beets and potatoes SERVES 6-8 SERVINGS
Nasturtium is the star of the show in this recipe for baby greens with roasted beets and potatoes: VINAIGRETTE • 1 1/2 tablespoons tarragon white-wine vinegar • 1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard • 1/2 teaspoon salt • 1/8 teaspoon black pepper • 1/4 cup olive oil SALAD • 2 medium beets (1 lb with greens; 14 oz without greens), stems trimmed to 2 inches • 1 lb small new potatoes (about 1 inch in diameter) or fingerlings (1 to 1 1/2 inches long), scrubbed well • 1 teaspoon olive oil • 1/8 teaspoon salt • 5 oz microgreens* such as baby Bibb, red-leaf, and oak-leaf lettuces and baby arugula, or mesclun (about 10 cups) • 4 cups New Zealand spinach (3 oz) (in season Now in Bermuda) • 1/3 cup lovage* leaves, coarsely chopped • 1/3 cup fresh fennel leaves • 1/3 cup fresh tarragon leaves • 20 unsprayed organic nasturtium blossoms*
1 Make vinaigrette: Whisk together vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Add oil in a slow stream, whisking until emulsified. 2 Roast beets and potatoes: Put oven racks in upper and lower thirds of oven and preheat oven to 425°F. Wrap beets individually in foil and roast on a baking sheet in upper third of oven until tender, 1 to 1 1/4 hours. Once beets have roasted for 30 minutes, toss potatoes with oil and salt in a small baking pan and roast in lower third of oven, shaking pan occasionally, until potatoes are tender, 25 to 30 minutes. Carefully unwrap beets and cool slightly, then slip off and discard skins. 3 Assemble salad: Cut beets into 1/3-inch dice and put in a large salad bowl. Cut potatoes into 1/3-inch-thick slices and add to beets along with all greens and herbs. Add vinaigrette and toss gently to coat. 4 Sprinkle blossoms on top and serve immediately.
EDIBLE FLOWER IN BERMUDA: NASTURTIUM
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10 LANES OF BOWLING FUN FOR EVERYONE
State of the Art 3D Scoring system | Automatic Scoring | Automatic Bumpers
Adults: $9 per game
Children 11 and under: $7
per game $3 Shoe Rental
More then just Bowling: Music Videos Arcade Games Black Light Smoke Machines
Sports Bar: Daily Drink Specials Live Sports daily Restaurant: Dine in or take Out Catering available for private functions Call: 297-2727 To make a reservation or a take-out food order
Monday & Tuesdays Closed Wednesday - Thursday 11am till 10pm, Fridays 11am till Midnight (opening times may vary)
Saturdays 2pm - midnight | Sundays 2pm - 8pm STRYKZ BOWLING LOUNGE 27 SouthSide St. David’s | STRYKZBOWL@OUTLOOK.COM All Major Credit Cards Accepted Follow us on INSTAGRAM
AND TRIP ADVISOR
COOKING
RG FOOD
RECIPE BOOKS&IDEAS READ Amore Bermuda and Bon Appetit Bermuda come from two of Bermuda’s beloved chef’s – Livio Ferigo and John-Claude Garzia respectively – each having created an ode to their native cooking in these cookbooks but with a twist enjoying some Bermuda-inspired recipes as well. Of course, James Beard Award-winning chef Marcus Samuelsson has several cookbooks to his name, but his most recent book, Red Rooster Cookbook: The Story of Food and Hustle in Harlem, brings together Samuelsson’s approach to cooking with southern comfort mixed with multiculturalism. For those looking for a healthy approach to life, Fuelled by Agathe Holowatinc, with a foreword from Bermudian chiropractor and self-proclaimed health nut Dr Reid Robinson and photography by Bermudian photographer Nhuri Bashir, ‘Fuelled’ is more than just a cookbook and is filled with nutritious recipes as well as education on raising the bar on food that fuels your body.
FOLLOW @mybermudianlife For delicious food ideas, motivation and a glimpse into some local foodie events, check out Mikaela Ian Pearman’s Instagram account @mybermudianlife. Her veggie-focused recipes look incredible, and added bonus they’re healthy!
MAKE As the summer season heats things up, spending time in the kitchen can feel like a chore. Try this easy bowl idea that basically makes itself.
Bring on the veggie bowl!
• Roast some veggies. Whatever you’ve got on hand or in season, such as carrots, zucchini, peppers, onions - pretty much whatever you fancy. Drizzle chopped veggies with coconut oil and cook in a 425-degree oven for about 25 minutes. • Cook up some grains. Wild rice, quinoa, couscous or give faro a try. • Add some protein. Batch cook protein (chicken, tofu, shrimp), use leftovers or bring on the beans • Top with sauce. See below for a delicious special sauce, mash an avocado or drizzle on some hot sauce. • Assemble bowls. Starting with grains, veggies and Tahini Sauce then protein. Slice some Adapted from Minimalist Baker avocado or add a few greens then top with sauce VINAIGRETTE of your choice. • 1/2 cup tahini • 1/4 teaspoon sea salt • 2 tablespoons maple syrup (to taste) • 1/2 juiced lemon • 2 teaspoon chopped garlic • 1/4 cup warm water (plus more if needed)
1 Whisk all ingredients until combined. Add water a little at a time until desired consistency.
QUICK AND
EASY
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TRENDS
COFFEE IN BERMUDA
CAFÉ
CULTURE ALEJANDRA OTTLEY PHOTOGRAPHY AKIL SIMMONS
With themes from little Italy, to Scandinavia — these quirky coffee shops will provide you with your caffeine fix
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FOOD 2019 | RG Mags
Victoire water street, st george’s This cosy and minimalist coffee shop is a refreshing escape from Bermuda in a way. From the decor to the projector on the wall, to the tray that your cup of coffee is presented in, has been selected to complement the minimal-Scandinavian vibe of this space. Freshness is the number one priority at Victoire “We import coffee every 10 days from small craft rosters that prioritise freshness and tasting profile” Says Owner Tyler Simmons, “We also serve vegan and gluten-free pastries that are brought daily from Sweet & Kind Bakery” he adds. The community and neighbourhood feel of St George's surely find their way into this space, and lend to inviting and relaxing environment to hang out.
Milan Milan front street, hamilton Milan Milan is truly a little taste of Italy in the middle of Hamilton. Offering a variety of wines, pan-try bits and of course, good coffee. The inspiration behind this one-stop shop offering a look into the healthy Mediterranean lifestyle was to create an environment customers can enjoy whether they’re making a quick stop on their way to work, or sitting down enjoying a cup of coffee and an authentic pastry. The Italian influence is notable as you walk in, from the tile that welcomes you down to the product selection, and it carries throughout the café, giving you, as the owner hopes, the feeling that you’re in a coffee shop in Italy. This a relaxed environment, right in the middle of the city, perfect to spend the afternoon at.
ED WHERE THE FISH PG 2 OF 3
Café 4 queen street, hamilton
After a recent revamp, freshness is the new motto at Café 4 featuring a salad bar, a sandwich station and a buffet-style pasta bar, with pasta made in-house from organic flour. A selection of coffee is also available for your caffeine fix, again featuring fresh ingredients and coffee grounds from Italy. Though the atmosphere is often vibrant and fast-paced, as most visitors are looking for a grab-and-go type of lunch, their terrace offers a nice escape from the buzz and fuss of the city. It has become a favourite for folks looking to unwind and have some fresh air during breaks. Whether you’re looking for a quick 10-minute lunch, or a space to spend your afternoon at, freshness and variety make Café 4 a staple.
Brew front street, hamilton Although Brew, is “the new kid on the block” on front street, they are by no means new to the business, they are backed up by over 10 years of experience. Brew, is the next step up from their previous location Java Jive on Victoria street. As Philip Barnett, president of the Island Restaurant Group, the goal was to have an environment that is welcoming to everybody. “Whether it’s parents meeting their children, or office folks getting a drink after work, we wanted to create a space for everybody can hang out” he says. Alongside the coffee, there is a large selection of grab-and-go items, including their signature sandwiches. With comfortable furniture, outlets through the store and complimentary WIFI, Brew is quickly becoming a space to hang out or get work done, stop by and you’ll find at least one person on their laptop, probably on their second cup of the day.
City Café washington lane, hamilton Conveniently located across the bus terminal, City Café offers a menu full of ever-changing options, even incorporating Italian, Indian and Filipino specials, paired with a coffee selection made with imported coffee beans. For owner Vincenzo Della Valle, freshness and quality are his number one priority. His team of talented chefs ensure that the food on offer is made fresh daily, and after 13 years in business, Vincenzo is certain that the key for their longevity is to “never compromise on quality, even during hard times”, and although seating is limited due to size, customers are always welcomed to sit down and enjoy their food. Over the years, City Café has grown a strong, loyal customer base for a reason; a convenient meal, with the love and care behind a homecooked meal.
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20OFF %
Bring this coupon into any of our Gosling’s Stores to receive a discount on our FLEURS de PRAIRIE Offer valid until May 28th, 2019.
GOSLINGS LIMITED
@GOSLINGSLIMITEDBDA
WARNING: EXCESSIVE ALCOHOL CONSUMPTION MAY BE HARMFUL TO YOUR HEALTH. PLEASE DRINK RESPONSIBLY
wine
LINE
WINE OF OF WINE THE MONTH MONTH THE SUBMITTED BY GOSLING'S LTD.
If you are looking to expand your wine knowledge, then Gosling’s is the place to go! We offer a variety of experiences from tastings to WSET certification. SATURDAY TASTINGS Every Saturday from 1:00pm-4:00pm, our Dundonald Street Wine Store managers select 5-6 wines that they sample with customers inside our Goslings’ Wine Cellar. This is a great opportunity to ‘try before you buy’ in a relaxed setting. Feel free to stop by our Dundonald Street Wine Store, and you will be directed to the designated tasting area inside the Goslings’ Wine Cellar. Our team is friendly and knowledgeable and looks forward to teaching you more about our wine portfolio. WSET CERTIFICATION Looking to increase your wine and spirit knowledge? Gosling’s Limited has teamed up with Wineschool3 to provide WSET global certifications. The Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) is the largest global provider of wine, spirits and sake qualifications. Trusted by the world’s most recognised drinks organisations, WSET has led the design and delivery of wine and spirit education for five decades. With four progressive levels of study, offered through a network of course providers in more than 70 countries and translated into multiple languages, WSET qualifications inspire and empower drinks professionals and enthusiasts. To find out more information on course dates, availability, pricing etc. please visit (wineschool3.com) or email Daniel Moik (dmoik@goslings.com).
club
DRINK
SOCIAL MEDIA Please follow us on Instagram (instagram. com/goslingslimitedbda/) or Facebook (facebook.com/GoslingsLimited) to find out more about our signature events. Throughout the year, we partner up with hotels, restaurants and bars to bring exciting experiences to our customers. A few upcoming events are Perrier-Jouët Champagne Garden Brunch, AIX On The Beach, Moët Day. RUM TASTINGS AND CRUISES Lastly, we can’t talk about what Gosling’s offers without mentioning our rum experiences! “Make friends with a local ‘Rumologist’ aboard a sunset cruise through tranquil bays. Savour more than the beautiful sights, and get a real taste of Bermuda’s rums, liqueur and delicious rum cake!” n For more information, or to make a reservation, visit (islandtourcentre.com/reservations/#category/739)
We have a Gosling’s “Wine of the Month” home delivery service.
Whether you’re after wine to enjoy with friends or looking to stock up your personal wine cellar, we have multiple tiers for you to choose from.
VILLAGES PREMIER (2 Wines) CRU
GRAND CRU
40 $75 $100
$
Every month EVERYDAY DRINKING
(2 Wines)
Every month SPECIAL OCCASIONS
VILLAGES PREMIER (4 Wines) CRU
(2 Wines)
Every month FOR WINE CONNOISSEURS
GRAND CRU
65 $135 $185
$
Every month EVERYDAY DRINKING
(4 Wines)
Every month SPECIAL OCCASIONS
(4 Wines)
Every month FOR WINE CONNOISSEURS
All memberships include free delivery to your choice of address, detailed tasting notes, a 10% discount at either of our retail store locations, invites to wine tastings, winemaker dinners, special events etc. Membership is on a monthly basis, so you can change or cancel anytime; terms and conditions apply. For more information, please visit our website (goslingswineclub. com) or email wine@goslings.com. Our “Wine of the Month” club subscription is the perfect gift for both seasoned and new wine drinkers alike. RG Mags | rgmags.com
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OCEAN
The demise of an
INDUSTRY CAPTAIN MATTHEW JONES Sanctuary Marine
My alarm goes off at 5am. I get up feeling like I have been beaten all over with a stick. Almost overcome by grogginess, I somehow get dressed and go up to the fridge to put together some lunch. I am driven by a youthful excitement knowing that every day will be somehow different and yet somehow the same.
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FOOD 2019 | RG Mags
PHOTOGRAPHY @TRISTAN_LOBSTERMAN & @SANCTUARYMARINE
I
t is July 1999, I am 12 years old and I have my first “job” on a charter fishing boat. I call it a “job” because I worked 29 days a month for three months and was paid a whopping $200 for my labours, but I would have been happy if I hadn’t received a dime. I just wanted to fish. I loved the ocean. You never knew what you would see or catch out there and even though I would get seasick almost every morning, I did not mind. I just wanted to learn. The days were fairly monotonous. Show up at the dock before 6:30am, load bait and drinks, clean up the boat to make it tidy for our daily charter guests whom we would typically pick up at 7am at Albuoy’s Point in Hamilton. Then we would pull out the big rods for our daily marlin troll to one of the two southwestern seamounts, Challenger Bank, 12 miles offshore, or Argus Bank, 21 miles out. These underwater mountains drop off into the abyss like a sheer cliff plunging as much as 10,000 feet deep. Our preferred position would be on the side of the mountain being hit by the prevailing ocean current. We would wind in the marlin lures, anchor up in about 250 feet of water and start chumming. Every day we would catch an average of ten 40lb-60lb yellowfin tuna, plus some wahoo, almaco jacks (locally known as bonitas), amberjack and other bottom-fish, making for an action-packed day. Often the chum line off the back of the boat would look like an aquarium, with fish gorging themselves on the free buffet. You could almost pick the fish you wanted to catch by timing when you threw out your line. I remember our anchor got stuck on
Argus Bank, so we tied some floats to it and left it there. For six weeks we returned and consistently caught ten or more yellowfin tuna a day in the same spot from July into August of 1999. Once our time was up we would pull the anchor, throw out the marlin lures and every other trip we would catch a blue or white marlin. Once back we would drop off the charter guests, return to the dock to clean the fish and the boat and do it all again the following day. Almost all the fish was sold to grocery stores and restaurants for $6.50 a pound — a price that remains much the same to this day. They never had trouble selling it. With tears rolling down my face, I can say with confidence those days are over. I promise you, nobody loves yellowfin tuna like I do. Fishermen can be painted as ruthless killers, but the truth is we love the fish because without them we cannot survive. I would argue we know more about the fish than even marine biologists. It is one thing to know the scientific name and anatomy of a fish, it is another to learn their habits and behaviour so well that you can make a living from killing the ocean’s top predators. Mastering the art of fishing is the fulfilment of what it means to be human which is why people love fishing so much. It is the last industry where we can still fully actualise our potential as the top predator on Earth. The old captain I fished with when I was 12 would say that in Bermuda we have seven years of good tuna fishing and seven years of bad. These days it is seven years of bad tuna fishing, a month or two of good, followed by another seven years of bad. I have not seen a good summertime yellowfin season in more than 15 years. In the past couple of seasons we did have some decent yellowfin tuna fishing, but in the wrong months. These days they have been showing up for a couple of weeks in June, then again in October to January. The average size of the fish has dropped from 40lb to 60lb down to 15lb to 30lb. The tuna used to be consistent, almost like the seasons. You knew what to fish for simply by knowing what the date was. If it were June to August you could go out, determine the direction of the ocean current, anchor up or drift on the right side of the seamount and catch ten to 20 tuna per day. In September to November it was time to switch to trolling rigged ballyhoo or live bait trolling frigate mackerel (little tunny if you are not from the Rock) for wahoo. In the winter months it was a bit harder to fish for the pelagics (wahoo and tuna) but in November and December you could go bottom-fishing on Challenger Bank and catch 600lb of fish per day. In January and February you could go to Argus Bank and do the same thing. March was a bit of a slow month, with the humpback whale migration moving through the fishing grounds. Come April you could once again go trolling for wahoo and even catch some early-season tuna and by June it was tuna time again. Making $1,000-plus per trip was fairly easy. Those days are over, because that schedule no longer applies. People might think that the fish-pots are to blame, but pelagic species were never caught in a fish-pot. The local pelagic fishery was never commercially exploited, we never used long lines or purse-seine nets. Using hook and line, rod and reel, it was nearly impossible for us to ever catch more fish than the ocean could replenish. The destruction of our local yellowfin tuna fishery is due to the proliferation of human beings, which leads to the proliferation of global commercial fishing, plastic pollution in the ocean and
global warming. Small 10lb yellowfin tuna are being netted by the ton off the west coast of Africa. They are being killed before they have a chance to reproduce by people who cannot really be blamed for what they are doing. Post-colonial Africa has it much rougher than we do in the developed world and without those small tuna, people would starve. At this rate of consumption the global pelagic fishery may have as little as 20 to 50 years before total collapse. The influence of global warming and microplastics could be even more detrimental than excessive fishing. If the ocean currents alter course we will see a global extinction event that would rival a large meteor striking the Earth. In the Anthropocene age, our capacity to grow meat in a laboratory will determine who eats and who starves. We may think we are somehow separate from nature, but as the law of ecology states, everything is interconnected and we are part of nature.
I HAVE NOT SEEN A GOOD SUMMERTIME YELLOWFIN SEASON IN MORE THAN
15 YEARS.
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ENJOY GREAT TASTING FOOD
Join us daily for Codfish & Potatoes Plus a wide range of International cuisines from Italy, Bermuda, India and the Philippines! c Known for our fresh, made to order Sandwiches, Salad Bar, Hand tossed Pizzas & Pizza Cones or stop in for a frothy Cappuccino or fresh Smoothie! c
Open Monday-Friday 7am - 6pm Saturdays 8am - 5pm & Sundays 8am - 3pm c Award-winning City CafĂŠ & Catering is located in the heart of Hamilton serving the tastiest, variety of quality food.
City CafĂŠ & Catering #4 Washington Street, Hamilton (opposite the Bus Terminal)
296-9462
info@citycafe.bm l www.citycafe.bm
TAKE-OUT Jamaican Cuisine at its best Curry Goat
Oxtail
Jerk Pork
Stew Peas w/Pig tail
45 Angle Street, Hamilton l Tel: 292-7389 l e-mail: fish&tings@hotmail.com Open: Mon - Thurs: 10am - 10pm l Fri - Sat: 10am - 11pm
Fish Dinner
PHOTOGRAPHY AKIL SIMMONS
THINKING
“I WILL BE DEAD BY THEN” IS NO EXCUSE.
The sooner we remember this and start accounting for the cost of losing the global fishery, the better. The fact that we are living on borrowed time and must change our ways soon will become truly apparent. The solution is simple: stop having so many children and stop using fossil fuels and petroleum products entirely. We must remember that without the tuna we cannot survive, we are a part of nature and should act as the Earth’s stewards. Without a fresh piece of tuna, clean air and clean water, all the money in the world is useless. It is hard to see the destruction of the ocean and put a price on the loss of the global pelagic fishery from an office building in Hamilton, but from where I have been standing it is plainly obvious. Nobody lives for ever and trying to keep up with the Joneses is no excuse for destroying the world. Just because everyone else lives a certain way does not mean you must do the same. Bermuda could be a shining light, a utopian example of what the world needs to become for us to survive. But instead we continue to import plastic by the ton and burn oil to power an island that has more than enough wind and tidal power at our fingertips. Some say changing our ways would cost too much money, but what will be the cost of not changing our ways? Thinking “I will be dead by then” is no excuse. And to be frank, you might still be alive to see it at our current rate of consumption. n
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Freshly baked everyday!
…the home of great baking. 125 Front Street, Hamilton Tel: 292-2064 l
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BLÛ BAR & GRILL Winner of “Best Business Dinner” and “Out of Town Eatery” Blû Bar and Grill is ideally located to showcase fabulous views across the Belmont Hills Golf Course and overlooks the picturesque Hamilton Harbour and the Great Sound. Blû offers great food characterised as bold American with generous Italian and Asian influences that will satisfy any palette. This effervescent restaurant provides a wonderful atmosphere with wines and service to match. Visit for dinner any day of the week from 6:00 pm - onwards
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25 Belmont Hills Drive, Warwick I T: 441-232-2323 I E: info@blu.bm I www.blu.bm Facebook: @BluBermuda I Dress Code: Smart Casual
how-to
COOKING
BERMY FISH TACOS SERVES 10 TACOS
EXECUTIVE CHEF DANAI HONWANISHKUL, Marcus' Bermuda PHOTOGRAPHY AKIL SIMMONS
Cripsy Fish
pepper, paprika and dry thyme; 4 Crack eggs into a bowl and whisk until smooth and slightly frothy; 5 Dredge seasoned fish with flour mix, dip into egg mix and back into dredge; 6 Fry for 3 minutes until golden brown and cooked through.
• 2lb fish fillet (snapper, rockfish, red hind) • 1lb flour • 1 teaspoon onion powder • 1 teaspoon garlic powder • 1 teaspoon black pepper • 1 teaspoon paprika • 1 teaspoon dry thyme • 4 whole eggs • salt to taste
• 3 sprigs cilantro • salt to taste
• 1 cup vinegar • salt to taste
1 Soak raisins in water; 2 Chop shallots, jalapeno, and chop cilantro; 3 Remove raisins from water and roughly chop; 4 Juice limes, mix with raisins, sugar and shallot mix; 5 Season with salt.
1 Slice red cabbage into thin strips; 2 Peel and slice red onion into thin strips; 3 Toss both onion and cabbage in sugar, vinegar, and salt; 4 Let sit for one hour before use.
Raisin Salsa
1 Preheat fryer oil to 350 degree F; 2 Slice fish into 1-inch by 2-inch strips and season with salt; 3 Mix together flour, onion powder, garlic powder, black
• • • • • •
1 cup raisin 1 cup water 1 piece shallot 4 pieces lime for juice 3 tablespoons sugar 1 piece jalapeno
Coleslaw • • • •
1/2 head red cabbage 1 piece red onion 1/2 cup sugar
Chilli Aioli • 1 cup mayonnaise • 2 tablespoons sriracha
1 Mix mayonnaise and sriracha together.
DIRECTIONS FOR ASSEMBLY Ingredients for assembly 10, 3-inch flour tortillas, 2 limes, chilli mayonnaise from above recipe, crispy fish from above recipecoleslaw from above recipe, raisin salsa from above recipe 1 Layout flour tortillas; 2 add crispy fish; 3 top with coleslaw, raisin salsa, chilli mayonnaise; 4 serve with lime wedges.
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PEOPLE
FOOD TOURS SPICE UP THE ISLAND
EXPERIENCE ANNABEL COOPER PHOTOGRAPHY AKIL SIMMONS & RAJAN SIMONS
Do you want a different type of restaurant experience? Do you need something to do during your ‘staycation’? Have you ever considered a walking food tour? Cheri Davenport and Heather Lamb founded Bermuda Food Tours in March 2018 and together with their team of tour guides, make sure visitors and locals alike taste everything the City of Hamilton has to offer. All the experiences are walking tours of various Hamilton eateries, and there are three tour options, which start at either 10.45 or 11.15am and take around 3-3.5 hours. Davenport tells us how these tours add extra flavour to the Island experience and say they even manage to take locals to places they’ve never been before. We also seek out three ‘tour chefs’ who tell us about their own culinary journeys. Variety, unique dishes and the VIP experience is what Bermuda Food Tours offers its guests, says Davenport. “Bermuda has so many international flavours. We’ve got Indian, Italian, Japanese.
Some of our stops have Bermudian food – we have Flanagan’s that does the Codfish and banana, and Hog Penny does wahoo bites. Goslings provide ingredients for our guests to have signature cocktails such as the Rum Swizzle and Dark ‘n Stormy. “All the chefs on our tour are great, and guests are impressed that at many of the stops, the chefs come out of the kitchen to greet them.” The restaurants used for each tour varies, but they go to The Astwood Arms every day for their English trifle. “People talk about Beluga Bar’s Japanese pizza. Devil’s Isle never serves the same thing. You’re getting a quiche or an eggs Benedict or some delicious French toast. Utopia does a pumpkin soup with coconut milk.” Culinary experiences such as Food Tours are taking off around the world says Davenport “it’s a great way to give a flavour and really feel the heartbeat of what is going on. Food brings people together.” n For more information on Bermuda Food Tours visit bermudafoodtour.com
THREE TOUR CHEFS
THEIR INSPIRATION, THEIR KITCHEN AND THEIR FAVOURITE THINGS:
Sammy Wong
Beluga Bar
Originally from Malaysia, Sammy Wong joined Beluga Bar in December 2010. He has been a chef for 30 years and was first inspired by his parents. “I used to help my parents cook when I was younger, and it left a lasting impression on me,” he says.
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Wong learned how to do teppanyaki and sushi from a Japanese chef and his three favourite ingredients are ginger, wasabi and soy sauce. His most popular food tour dish is guacamole pizza, and he believes it’s the fresh fish and special rolls that keep his diners coming back to Beluga Bar, as well as his personal touch: “Apart from preparing delicious food for my guests, I prepare myself to understand each of my customer’s needs.” Wong would like to work with more Japanese chefs to share his experience and learn new and creative cooking techniques. He also plans to teach young chefs the basics of Japanese cooking. When enjoying a meal out, he says he tends to avoid ordering oysters because “you only want the freshest,” and when asked what his last meal would be, Wong answers: “Instant noodles. The secret is you should always add an egg to it.”
Danny Lim
Little Venice & L’Oriental Danny Lim has been a chef for 30 years and joined Little Venice in 1993. His inspiration comes from his mother. “She cooks for the whole family every single day and even now, at 85, she is still doing the cooking,” he says. The one ingredient he can’t live without is a good quality olive oil, and he even uses it in his morning “bullet-proof coffee”. His favourite food is a “good steak” prepared simply and using fresh ingredients. To keep guests coming back for more, he makes everything “as fresh as possible” using “simple, tasty and locally-sourced items.” Davenport couldn’t stop raving about the Little Venice Cheese Wheels he does, which were inspired by Italian chef, Massimo Buttura after the 2012 earthquakes that hit the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. This region is home to Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. 360,000 wheels of this cheese were damaged when the warehouses in which they were stored were hit. They were worth millions and unless used quickly would be ruined. Chef But-
Josue David Lemus
Devil’s Isle
Josue David Lemus, 33, has been the Head Chef at Devil’s Isle since Spring 2015. Even though he graduated from a culinary institute in Guatemala, he says: “I am mostly self-taught. I began
DANNY tura, a native of this part of Italy, created a new recipe using these cheese wheels and worldwide, people got together on October 27, 2012, for an online feast. All 360,000 wheels were sold. “The pasta is cooked in the kitchen, the waiter then brings it out and mixes it into the cheese wheel, and you can top it up with different things,” explains Lim.
working in restaurants at age 17, and I’ve been passionate about food ever since.” Like many great chefs, Lemus discovered his food passion as a child in the kitchen with his mother. “She is a phenomenal cook. I was the only one she would let in to help her in the kitchen when she was cooking.” Lemus says his last meal would have to be his mother’s black refried beans recipe, “the secret is to cook the onions and beans for a long time at a low temperature.”
I AM MOSTLY SELF-TAUGHT. I BEGAN WORKING IN RESTAURANTS AT AGE 17, AND I’VE BEEN PASSIONATE ABOUT FOOD EVER SINCE.
JOSUE
Fresh herbs are his favourite ingredient. “I always have them in the kitchen,” he says. So, what does he like to order for himself when he goes into a restaurant? “If I’ve been in the restaurant before, I
would order something different every time. I like to try new things all the time, and usually I avoid the popular food like burgers, fries, sandwiches, and I prefer to be impressed with something new.”
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RECIPES
IN THE BAKERY
CAFÉ 4
BEST SELLING BREAD Café 4 has been known as the lunch spot in Hamilton with the most popular salad bar. As for the sandwiches? All the fresh breads are made in house, using four ingredients — organic flour, local eggs, water and temperature controlled yeast. ALEJANDRA OTTLEY PHOTOGRAPHY BLAIRE SIMMONS
Bread rises because yeast eats sugar and produces carbon dioxide.
DID YOU KNOW? Multigrain bread
is a type of bread prepared with two or more types of grain. Grains used include barley, flax, millet, oats, wheat, and whole-wheat flour, among others. Whole grain multigrain breads contain a dietary fibre content of up to four times greater than white breads.
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Multigrain Bread YIELD 4
STARTER • 500gm bread flour • 20gm fresh yeast • 500ml lukewarm water • 4 teaspoons sugar Soak the following with 500ml water for 2 hours until soft. • 50gm sesame seeds • 80gm pumpkin seeds • 50gm flax seeds • 60gm sunflowers seeds • 100gm rolled oats • 2 tablespoons toasted wheat germ DOUGH • 460gm wheat flour • 540gm bread flour • 32gm butter (SOFT) • 32gm salt • 2 tablespoons honey
TO MAKE THE STARTER: 1 Stir together bread flour, sugar and yeast in a medium bowl. 2 Stir in water until thoroughly blended. The dough will be like pancake batter. 3 Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and let it sit for 2 hours at room temperature. The dough will become frothy and double in volume, with lots of little bubbles.
SUNFLOWER SEEDS
In the meantime, soak all the seeds and rolled oats for 2 hours until soft. TO MAKE THE DOUGH: 1 Mix together all the dried ingredients, starter, soaked soft seeds and oats in a bowl. 2 Turn the mixture out onto a clean kitchen surface and knead for 10 minutes or until the ‘windowpane effect’ is achieved (where the dough can be stretched until it is so thin that it becomes transparent). 3 Put the dough into a lightly oiled bowl, cover with a damp tea towel and let it prove for 2½-3 hours or double the volume. 4 Turn out the dough onto a clean kitchen surface and knock back (deflate the dough). Portion the dough into 4 and shape into two ballshaped loaves. Place seam side up on a towel or parchment paper generously dusted with bread flour or rice flour. Cover and let rise 1-1/2 to 2 hours or until ¾ volume size.
FOR THE BEST BAKING RESULTS Place a baking stone, pizza stone or unglazed ceramic tile on the bottom shelf of oven. Preheat oven to 475°F for 20 minutes to allow the stone to get to temperature. Depending on the size of your baking stone, bake 1 or 2 loaves at a time, placing seam side down on parchment paper. If desired, brush flour off the top, lightly brush with water and sprinkle with oats. Score each loaf with 2 to 4 slashes using a sharp knife or blade. Slide the dough with parchment onto bread peel or rimless baking sheet. Carefully slide onto the heated baking stone, immediately spritzing the oven with water around the dough 7 to 10 times. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes spritzing every 5 minutes, 3 more times. Bake to an internal temperature of 200°F. Remove from the oven and parchment; cool on wire rack. Bake remaining loaf.
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