The Historic Village Of Chimayo

By Lisa Waterman Gray Freelance Writer

Two very different driving routes lead visitors between Taos and Santa Fe, New Mexico. When following ‘the Low Road,’ there’s plenty of gorgeous scenery to enjoy (and some wineries) as it snakes along the Rio Grande River. But a trip along the High Road will introduce you to the rural, antique, art-filled town of Chimayó.

Chimayó is perhaps best known for the Catholic church that was built here during the early 1800s. A National Historic Landmark, El Santuario de Chimayó is an absolute must-visit. Calm feelings overtake many visitors as soon as the antique structure comes into view. Pray silently in the chapel, before visiting an anteroom full of discarded crutches and reputed miraculous healings.

Religious artifacts line the walls of a second anteroom where a dusty border of red brick encircles a hole in the floor. It’s filled with a pile of what is considered sacred dirt and a small trowel. During one visit, my travel companion inadvertently stepped backwards into the dirt and soon felt better than she had in several days. At that moment, the chapel’s miraculous powers seemed very real. There’s much to learn about the history and mystery of this little village at Chimayó Museum, operated by the Chimayó Cultural Preservation Association. Located in the historic neighborhood of Plaza de Cerro, it also stands amid a fortified row of contiguous vintage adobe buildings. Historians and architects have long considered this the best example of a vintage fortified plaza in the state.

Donated artifacts tell a captivating story of life here, during the early 1900s, as do photographs – many taken by Prudence Clark, a Presbyterian missionary schoolteacher arrived in Chimayo during 1900.

After a bit of sightseeing, satisfy your growling stomach at Rancho de Chimayó, a restaurant owned by the Jaramillo family for nearly six decades. Reconstructed following a devastating fire, in 2008, warm colored adobe is the backdrop for gourmet, New Mexican cuisine.

From late spring into fall, sip ultra-fresh margaritas while dining on the multi-level backyard terrace. Devour seasonal dishes such as Shrimp Enchiladas with blue corn tortillas and green chile sauce; Sopapilla Relleno – with a big scoop of guacamole – or Steak Fajitas al Estilo Chimayo (vegetarian options are also available). You just might remember this meal as the best of your trip!

The Jaramillos have also offered a cozy B&B since 1984, at their Hacienda Rancho de Chimayó. This renovated adobe family home features seven Victorian-style guest rooms. You’ll see plenty of two and three-dimensional artwork too, from woven rugs to vintage wall art. In each room wood ceiling beams complement white adobe fireplaces. With access from each room to an enclosed garden, extremely reasonable prices include continental breakfast.

Much of Chimayó’s artistry takes the form of generations-old, expert weaving. Owned by a single family since the early 1900s, Ortega’s Weaving Shop is widely known for colorful hand- and loom-woven rugs and blankets as well as coats, vests, cushions, and purses. If you’re lucky, you may even get to watch employees as they create new woven pieces on massive looms. Opened much more recently, the family’s adjacent Galería Ortega offers a wide variety of arts and crafts by other New Mexico artisans.

Block out some time to visit Centinela Traditional Arts too. Here Irvin Trujillo, his wife, Lisa, and their daughter, Emily, continue an eight generation family weaving tradition. In addition, Irvin previously fulfilled commissions from Japanese clients and Ralph Lauren. He was also a National Endowment for the Arts National Heritage Fellow 2007 and held a 2009 show at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe.

The bright and welcoming shop displays their craftsmanship and that of additional cottage and consignment weavers. And Lisa is expert in Colca – Spanish regional embroidery. Her gorgeous saltillos sell for more than $15,000. You’ll find rugs and blankets with striped designs influenced by Mexican serapes, and modern templates with bands of peach, rose, and aqua. But what you may remember most about visiting here is the Trujillo family’s warm welcome and passion for their art.

Ready to head towards Santa Fe?

As you drive south from Chimayó, stop, and browse a broad array of Indigenous art, at Theresa’s Art Gallery and Studio. In tiny Santa Cruz owner, Theresa Montoya, warmly welcomes guests to browse a staggering array of exquisite New Mexican carvings and weaving to tin pieces, by multiple artists.

Montoya’s pottery collection even draws international customers, especially for highly coveted, black-colored pieces crafted at Santa Clara Pueblo. You’ll find fantastic prices here too. She says her lack of overhead and status as a New Mexican small businessperson leads Native American artists to sell her their pieces for up to less than half of what they sell for in larger cities.

After your Chimayó visit ‘The City Different’ – Santa Fe – awaits. And you’ll only drive for about half an hour before reaching its bustling Plaza.

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