Astoria/Kathy Condon

The Mysteries of Astoria

Connecting the states of Oregon and Washington, the four-mile-long bridge spanning the Columbia River is shrouded in fog. As the morning begins, the eerie feeling permeates the area and seems to enhance the mysteries and mysticism of the west coastal town of Astoria, Oregon.

History of the Area

The first documentation of the Columbia River, where Astoria proudly sits, occurred in 1775 when Bruno de Heceta of Spain saw the river’s mouth. During this period, the indigenous Chinook and Clatsop people lived a comfortable life, with bountiful amounts of food and a fur-trading business, which enabled them to exchange goods with other groups dotted on the coast and inland. Then Captain James Cook from the British Royal Navy sailed to the area and noted the vast fur resources.

Word spread, and soon the area attracted hundreds of people to the Northwest, seeking their fortune with fur trading. With them, they brought diseases that nearly decimated the native populations. With a declining population, the area began to struggle. Meanwhile, John Astor, an entrepreneur from New York City, sought to expand his fur trade empire and set his sights on the coastal area. Working with partners, he established the American Fur Company and founded Fort Astoria in the early 19th century. In October 1876, the Oregon Legislative Assembly named the area Astoria. Chinese, German, Danes, Norwegians, and Swedes, one can see how conflicts might have started arising. Today official documentation states Astoria had become a frontier-like town.

With the newly established maritime activities such as fishing and processing and packing canneries which rose to 22 at their peak, the need for crews became desperate. Underground tunnels were built to enable the transfer of both people and goods. People began to fear for their lives, for shanghaiing, a practice of conscripting men as sailors by coercion, became prevalent.

Expansion of the Population

In 1860 there were 499 people in the town, and by 1900 there were 8,000. By today’s standards, that doesn’t seem like much. Still, considering the growing immigrant population consisting of Finnish,

Spirits Seem to be Everywhere

With the above history, ghost seekers have to look no farther than Astoria, Oregon. Astoria holds the unofficial title of the town with the most ghosts in Oregon. It is no wonder October sees an influx of

The Mysteries of Astoria Kathy Condon

TravMedia & International Travel Writers Alliance www.PalmSpringsInsiderGuide.com

visitors. The Underground Tunnels The popular Astoria Underground Tours has been developed by the owners of Gulley Butch Shop, whose place of business sits on top of the tunnels. They started exploring the tunnels that had been closed since prohibition. The exploration resulted in discovering that there once had been existing homes in this underground world. With an office set in one of these spaces, they felt someone was visiting them. Was it a ghost?

After various episodes of seemingly ghostly interactions, they brought in three separate paranormal investigators. All of whom came to the same conclusion that there were at least two women ghosts, Abigail and Sarah, both known citizens of the area and had lived in apartments in the underground.

The Cannery on Pier 39

A friend wanted to take us for lunch at the Coffee Girl. She gave us little information, but we soon saw a rather rickety-looking pier, and she started to drive across it. Since I saw other cars parked directly in front of the expansive building labeled Pier 39, I figured we would be safe. We got out and followed her to the entrance of the building. Walking in, it looked like a giant, abandoned warehouse. It was once one of the thriving canneries I mentioned above.

Large strange, looking machinery sat motionless, collecting thick dust piled on its flat surfaces. Old cannery brand signs hung askew on the walls in unexpected places. Are there ghosts here? Eerie? I was convinced this would be a great place to jump out and scare someone if I were a ghost.

At last, we came to the end of the building, perched on stilts in the Columbia River. We walked through the doors, and the story started to unfold. During the heyday of this particular cannery, the workers, mostly women, came to take their breaks and eat lunch at this cafe. Frozen in time, I had a delicious sandwich called Turkberry, reminiscent of the day after Thanksgiving’s terrific turkey and cranberry sandwich. What a great experience eating the sandwich and watching the ships.

Liberty Theatre Open for Tours

A leisurely walk exploring Astoria brought us across the street from the Liberty Theatre. The large marquee Liberty sign caught my attention, and I

noted people were milling around the front door. We approached, and I asked if we could go in, and a broadly smiling volunteer assured us we would be most welcome to peruse the area.

One first notices the elegance of this magnificent theatre, which was particularly popular during the vaudeville days. Today, under an architect’s guidance, it is undergoing a restoration. A film documents the process, and an interview with the firm restoring the place says they were thrilled most of the initial ornate cornices and ceiling décor were still in place, just needing to be repaired.

Like many buildings in Astoria, it is rumored that a ghost, Handsome Paul dressed in a white tuxedo and derby hat, has chosen to make the theatre his home. Producers and staff have come in and found curtains once closed and now opened, strange noises, and the popcorn and soda machine turned off the night before are on when they arrive.

If Handsome Paul chose to live here, he would be an intelligent man, for the theatre is stunning. A ballroom room-like space on the second floor has become a beautiful community gathering place.

The Flavel House

Flavel House Stands Majestically on the Hill. The Flavel House is one of the finest remaining examples of Queen Anne architecture in the Northwest. Captain George Flavel, who obtained his wealth through being a Columbia River pilot and real estate investments, built the house in 1845 for his family.

The house consists of 11,600 square feet on two and a half stories. The interior is graced with moldings, wainscoting, doors, and window covers faux wood-grained by master artisans, making Douglas Fir look like rosewood and mahogany. The exquisite furnishing reflects the Victorian era.

Again, stories abound about voices being heard, floral scents suddenly appearing, and curtains opening and closing. Just saying locals believe the house is haunted, by whom no one is sure. In any case, you will want to visit this magnificent home now turned into a beautiful museum.

Maritime Museum on the Columbia River I

don’t say this often, but the Columbia River Maritime Museum is one of the most well-organized and appointed museums I have ever visited. Everything from the entrance to the lighting, carpeting, and signs add to the only word I can think of is elegance.

Perched on the edge of the Columbia River, this world-class museum is doing outstanding work presenting the ocean and river trials and tribulations to the world. A 30-minute 3-D film frankly mesmerized me, for it tracked the journey of a mother whale and her baby on their journey home. During the film, a viewer learns how the ocean is crucial to maintaining our life as we know it now, not alone illustrating how it could be better if we took action.

Since we have been talking about ghosts, it is hard to even look at a map that documents 200 plus shipwrecks that have taken place in this area due to the Columbia River bar, considered to be one of the most dangerous spots in the world. Imagine the lives that have been lost. Are some of these former sailors reappearing as ghosts? I will leave the answer up to you.

After touring this museum, I can unequivocally say you must make this a stop when you are in Astoria, Oregon. Plan for a minimum of three hours.

Where Should I Stay?

I was honored to be hosted for a night’s stay at the Cannery Pier Hotel and Spa. This former cannery building has been restored into a luxury hotel on stilts directly on the Columbia River. Oh my, what a magnificent experience.

The minute you walked in, you felt like you were in for a unique visit. The staff greeted you with great smiles, and some teasing fun took place. We were escorted to our room on the second floor, where the light poured in once we opened the door, for the scene before was a full view of the Columbia River right outside our window. The checking-in process was just part of the adventure. Happy Hour food and wine were plentiful, and it was fun meeting others as we sipped our wine and watched the ships sail by, heavily loaded with cargo.

It was time to head off to dinner. With a driver and antique Rambler provided by the hotel, we were taken downtown to Silver Salmon Grille, where we had reservations. The chef recommended we have the evening’s special of halibut, with a creole bent. Certainly, heed the recommendation of the chef. It was outstanding.

Alas, it was time to end our wonderful Astoria visit. The large shower at the hotel and then wrapped in the great bathrobe made it awfully hard to pull us away from this luxury, romantic hotel that had more than met our expectations. Breakfast, part of your room reservation, immediately caught our attention as we got off the elevator. The freshly baked croissants aroma was just the first act in the array of food available for breakfast.

With the visit to Astoria ending, it became apparent there is still so much more to explore. Retail stores, art galleries, and numerous restaurants are scattered downtown and on the water’s edge. As for the ghosts, I’ll let you make your own conclusions.

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Creepy Art Critics & Haunted Trolleys

JACKSONVILLE - A small historic gold rush-era town just north of Ashland in Southern Oregon, Jacksonville claims the first group of buildings in Oregon to enter the National Historic Landmark Register. Perhaps the town is so rich in spirits because minimal modification of these buildings has allowed energy to accumulate, theorizes Carolyn Kingsnorth, president of Historic Jacksonville, which leads haunted history tours in the area.

Monthly ghost tours — which involve about a mile of walking — run May through October, with multiple one-hour tours going out each evening. Reserve well ahead of time at Historic Jacksonville Haunted History Tours, as they usually sell out. Participants can choose between the Courthouse tour — featuring stories of old brothels, epidemics and hangings — or the Britt Hill tour, which reveals stories of arson, saloons and Oregon’s first Chinatown.

Creepy Art Critics & Haunted Trolleys

Kingsnorth also collects tales from locals who have seen ghosts or ghostly activities. On the Britt Hill tour, for example, participants learn about a spirit who provided art critiques in the home of two artists. “They would come into the studio in the morning and they might find paintings turned to the wall,” says Kingsnorth. “Or they might find a picture occasionally enhanced, particularly nudes.” The tours evolve as more ghosts come out of the woodwork.

If you prefer to ride rather than walk, reserve your spot on Jacksonville Chamber of Commerce’s Haunted Trolley Tour. The tours run Oct. 2830, 2022 and promise a lighthearted, not-too-gory approach to hauntings with special effects and interpreters.

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