Foothills Magazine July-August 2019

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oothills WENATCHEE u LEAVENWORTH u CHELAN u AND ALL OF NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON

July-August 2019

Backyard chickens

Work pays off in farm-fresh eggs


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EDITOR’S LETTER

This could be a

memorable summer I

n June, I visited my college alma mater in Cheney for the first time since graduating more than 25 years ago. It turns out that campuses change over the years, with new buildings going up and old buildings getting remodeled or coming down. It all felt familiar, though, as I showed my wife and daughters around the campus. Still, I must admit, memories are fading a bit for me as I approach the half-century mark. It feels like my brain is too full to remember the little things as well as it once did. Did I turn off the coffee maker? What was I planning to make for dinner? My strongest memories are happy ones involving my daughters — maybe because they are the most recent memories. There is one contested memory in my family — someone please convince my wife that saxophonist Fito Olivares brought his cumbia band to Wenatchee for a show about 15 years ago. I am positive we attended and that I danced extremely well that night. My wife says it never happened. It’s become a bit of a running joke in our family. And there are shared historical memories we’d rather forget — where were you when JFK was killed, when the space shuttle Challenger blew up after launch or when the twin towers toppled? Some memories seem fleeting at the moment but for various reasons aren’t. It could be at the end of that familiar hike you’ve done dozens of times, but the shades of colors in the twilight sky this particular evening become something you won’t ever forget. Or it could be that backyard barbecue with friends that turns into a memorable afternoon. Happy memories are there for the making this summer. Good luck.

Marco Martinez, editor foothills@wenatcheeworld.com

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Contents

26 Mazama magic

Sands family home fits right into Methow Valley

10 Play ball!

AppleSox owner Jose Oglesby is a true fan

14 42 One egg at a time Summer salad

Backyard chickens produce farm-fresh goodness

organ Fraser M shares a tasty recipe

52 Wenatchee landing 62 Double digits

Horan, Crayelle relocate tasting rooms

20 Local brews

A quintet of summer sipping options 8

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Lake Chelan AVA celebrates anniversary


oothills A BI-MONTHLY LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE ABOUT NORTH CENTRAL WASHINGTON

Publisher Jeff Ackerman (541) 817-4263 ackerman@wenatcheeworld.com Managing editor Russ Hemphill (509) 665-1161 hemphill@wenatcheeworld.com Editor Marco Martinez (509) 664-7149 martinez@wenatcheeworld.com General Manager, Advertising and sales Sean Flaherty (509) 664-7136 flaherty@wenatcheeworld.com Creative Director Nancy Phillips Proofreaders Joanne Saliby

WASHINGTON MEDIA LLC Foothills Magazine is published bi-monthly by Washington Media LLC, 14 N. Mission St., Wenatchee, WA, 98801. $4.99 Retail Price Subscriptions: $14.99 annually Send check or money order to: Foothills, Subscriptions 14 N. Mission St., Wenatchee, WA, 98801 or subscribe online at ncwfoothills.com Copyright 2019 with all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or part is prohibited without written permission.

COVER PHOTO: Kevin Farrell photo Carol and Shawn Seaman of Leavenworth re-create a modern “American Gothic” in front of their homemade chicken coop. July / August 2019

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SPEED ROUND Favorite major league player of all time? Roberto Clemente

Favorite current major league? Dee Gordon (Seattle Mariners) Go-to concession item at AppleSox game: Burger

AppleSox owner Jose Oglesby

Favorite summer drink: Unsweetened Ice Tea Best baseball movie: The Natural For or against the shift: For. Batters need to adjust. Second-favorite sport: Soccer. I like it just as much as baseball. What was your biggest lesson from your first year as AppleSox owner? The biggest lesson is that there is a supportive community that makes the AppleSox possible. How helpful was it to have former owner Jim Corcoran around last summer during your first year as owner?

Oglesby chats with new players during AppleSox Fan Fest on June 1.

J

ose Oglesby is in his second year as owner of the Wenatchee AppleSox, a collegiate summer baseball team that plays in the West Coast League. The local nine is celebrating its 20th year with a 59-game regular season schedule that stretches into mid-August. Oglesby is a lifelong baseball fan who grew up in Columbia and the Panama Canal Zone. Some of his earliest memories are listening to radio broadcasts of the popular Columbian teams and later Major League Baseball teams. 10

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The former Microsoft manager splits his time between Seattle and Wenatchee during the AppleSox season. We caught up with him for an interview in the busy days leading up to the season opener in June. What’s your background in baseball? I am a lifelong baseball fan. Former Boston Red Sox season ticket holder and a Seattle Mariners season ticket holder since 1997. I love the historical statistics aspects of baseball.

Jim was very helpful last summer. Operating the team was completely new to me. It was great to have Jim around to show me how things were done and to answer questions about why things were done in a certain way. Jim also introduced me to all the people in the community who care about the AppleSox. What changes, if any, have you made in your second year as owner? We are now running concessions in-house. That was a big change. We have new merchandise celebrating our 20th season in Wenatchee. We will roll out some other initiatives during the season.


STORY BY MARCO MARTINEZ PHOTOS BY DON SEABROOK

Jose Oglesby is in his second year as Wenatchee AppleSox owner. He is comfortable with his team of college players, knowing their names and where they go to school. July / August 2019

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Clockwise from bottom left: Jose Oglesby is a true fan of the game, tracking player statistics as a hobby. The AppleSox season runs through mid-August. The Wenatchee AppleSox are celebrating their 20th season.

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I noticed that the start time for AppleSox games has moved up a half-hour this year to 6:35 p.m. Is that so the owner can get to bed earlier on game nights? Ha, ha. No, that start time is common around the league. We think it is more family friendly. What is it about baseball that has such broad appeal? The history, the traditions, the lack of a time clock. If you were universal commissioner of baseball, what one thing about the game would you change? I would reduce or eliminate interruptions in game flow. Mound visits and pitching changes would be gone or reduced in time. Why shouldn’t the new pitcher be already warmed up when they come in. What’s the best perk of owning a baseball team? Free tickets and food. Getting to meet the players, coaches, fans, staff and sponsors. Seeing people having a good time is a great feeling. I’m told that you’re into baseball analytics. What is it about baseball-related numbers that you find interesting? I like it that numbers can tell a story … not the whole story

but an important part of Lefty vs Righty. Home vs Away. I find the differences in the numbers fascinating.

it.

Do you consider yourself a hands-on owner? Do you ever tell manager Kyle Krustangel what moves he should make on the field? No. I will discuss baseball with Coach Krustangel in general terms but he makes the decisions Tell the truth — could you beat the Coyote in a race around the bases? Probably not. That is one race coyote would surely win. This is year 20 for the AppleSox franchise. It’s been a team the Wenatchee Valley has historically supported. Why is that? Some of it goes back to the Wenatchee Chiefs (a minor league baseball team that played from 19411965). They were here for a while and created a baseball tradition. Some of it has to do with the success the team has had in the league and the players that have played here. F


Morgan Fraser combines her fruit salsa, which includes oranges, blueberries, Fuji apples, sweet onion and cilantro in a bowl, before serving on a bed of greens. 14

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KITCHEN CREATIONS

STORY BY MORGAN FRASER PHOTOS BY REILLY KNEEDLER

A salad that sings summer Fresh fruit, produce put to delicious use

S

ummer is one of my favorite seasons in North Central Washington, for many reasons. I love the smell of baked earth and pine trees. I love cold, fresh water, so you’ll often find me swimming in one of the many clear rivers in the area, or in Lake Chelan. Best of all, summer is a great time for meals with fresh local fruit and produce.

In 2010, I published a wine-pairing cookbook for the Chelan Valley. I gathered recipes from local chefs and winemakers, including the owners of The Culinary Apple, a fantastic kitchen store in downtown Chelan that has been bringing great fudge, amazing kitchen gadgets and much more to the Chelan Valley for decades.

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Some of the key ingredients for fruit salsa salad: Cilantro, blueberries, Fuji apple, orange, onion and gorgonzola cheese.

The first step in this recipe is peeling and chopping the fruit. Here Morgan Fraser prepares an orange before adding it to a bowl with a pair of diced Fuji apples. 16

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Fraser chops cilantro for her fruit salsa salad. The cilantro is combined with fruit and dressing in a bowl, then it sits for 10 minutes before being served.


Mary Weldy, who owns The Culinary Apple with her husband Dave, gave me this recipe for fruit salsa salad to include in the book. At first, I have to admit I was a little skeptical; I had never heard of anything quite like it. When I tested out the recipe, however, I realized what a gem Mary had shared with me. This brightly colored salad is an amazing mix of sweet and savory. It’s easy to make, and best of all it calls for blueberries and Fuji apples, both of which are grown locally and readily available during the summer months. Take this salad to a neighborhood barbecue or on a picnic and you’ll quickly become the most popular contributor there!

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Morgan Fraser adds a scoop of fruit salsa to a bed of greens while constructing her salad. The plates should be chilled for best results.

Fraser sprinkles gorgonzola cheese on her salad to complete the dish. Sunflower seeds, pine nuts or candied walnuts can also be added.

Fraser measures out extra virgin olive oil for the salad dressing, which also has apple juice, red wine vinegar, salt and a couple tablespoons of sugar. 18

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Fruit Salsa Salad Prep time: 30 minutes

Left: This fruit salsa salad, which was included in Morgan Fraser’s 2010 cookbook Savoring Chelan, pairs great with a white wine and a summer afternoon. Below: Fraser says it takes 30 minutes to prep fruit salsa salad and yields six servings.

Fruit Salsa ½ cup sweet onion, chopped (about half an onion) 2 tablespoons cilantro, finely chopped 2 medium Fuji apples, cored and diced 2 cups blueberries 1 orange, peeled, sectioned and cut into pieces

Dressing ¼ teaspoon salt 2 tablespoons sugar 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil 3 tablespoons apple juice 1/3 cup red wine vinegar 1 ¼ cups mix baby salad greens ½ cup crumbled gorgonzola cheese ¼ cup pine nuts, sunflower seeds or candied walnuts (optional) After chopping and dicing the fruit salsa ingredients, gently stir them all together in a large bowl. Set aside. In a separate bowl, whisk the dressing ingredients together. Pour the dressing over the fruit salsa and let stand for 10 minutes. Divide the salad greens onto 6 chilled plates. Spoon the fruit salsa mixture over the greens. Top with gorgonzola cheese and nuts or seeds if desired. Yield: 6 servings Morgan Fraser is a Spanishlanguage teacher and writer. Her books include Savoring Chelan and Savoring Leavenworth, two local wine-pairing cookbooks, and Confessions of a Travel Addict, a book of short stories about her travels around the world. She lives in Leavenworth. F July / August 2019

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THE BUZZ

STORY AND PHOTOS BY HOLLY THORPE

Seasonal taps 5 Wenatchee beers to try this summer

S Visit

buzzncw.com to find out more

ummer is the season for barbecues, bonfires and beers. Why not try something local this season? With five breweries in Wenatchee alone, there’s no shortage of locallymade, craft beer to supply your summer festivities.

Wenatchee Valley Brewing Co. Where: 108 East Island View St. Try: Tour de Bloom Hazy IPA Summer is the perfect time to check

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out Wenatchee Valley Brewing Co.’s tap room near the Riverside 9 apartments. They have 13 of their original beers on tap there, including four rotating seasonal beers. This location, although smaller than their main brewpub in Pybus Public Market, has a full menu, including oyster shooters coming this summer, and games to play on the covered patio. Manager Sabrina McClain said the Tour de Bloom Hazy IPA is a good choice for hop-heads and light beer drinkers alike. “The Tour de Bloom is going to be an entry IPA,” McClain said. “It’s a crisp, light summer beer.” It’s hoppy without the typical IPA bitterness, making it a good patio beer. Not an IPA fan? The raspberry wheat is pleasantly tart, fruit-forward and not overly sweet or syrupy. It’s a good choice for new beer drinkers and cider fans.


The Tour de Bloom Hazy IPA is one of 13 Wenatchee Valley Brewing Co. beers at its 108 E. Island View St. location. July / August 2019

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Above: Can’t decide? Try a flight of four of the 13 Wenatchee Valley Brewing Co. beers on tap. Below: Ken Muir, brewer for Saddle Rock Pub & Brewery, describes the SRPB Blonde as a “citrusy crowd-pleaser.”

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The Strategery Session IPA at 509 Bierwerks in Wenatchee.

Saddle Rock Pub & Brewery Where: 25 N. Wenatchee Ave. Try: SRPB Blonde Visit the family-friendly pub this summer to try one of their rotating original taps. This summer, they’re bringing back their “easygoing” blonde ale, said brewer Ken Muir. “It’s a light and citrusy crowd-pleaser,” he said. The blonde is not overly bitter, making it refreshing and drinkable. The brewery upgraded to a twobarrel system in February, meaning more capacity for brewing, and guests can expect to see at least two of their beers on tap throughout summer. The

other 10 will feature rotating guest brews. They have a full menu (including the beloved Wenatchee pizza with bacon and apples) and a dog-friendly patio. Located near the walking bridge, it’s a great starting or ending point for a stroll downtown.

509 Bierwerks Where: 200 S. Columbia St. Try: Strategery Session IPA Now’s the time to visit Wenatchee’s newest brewery, 509 Bierwerks. Located in the historic Wells and Wade building, the brewery already has 8 of their own beers on tap, with more on the way. Grant Stoebner, founder and

owner, recommends the Strategery Session IPA, which clocks in at 65 IBUs (international bittering units, meaning it’s not very bitter) and 5% ABV. “The goal with a session is to have the hop aroma and hop flavor of an IPA but something with a low ABV that you can just crush,” he said. For something a little lighter and less hoppy, try the Longknife Lager. “When it’s 100 degrees here in the valley and you’ve got to mow your lawn, but you still want a beer with flavor, this is your beer,” Stoebner said. The industrial-looking space is family-friendly and has plenty of room for large crowds and events. Plus, Stoebner brought Leavenworth’s Fresh Burger menu to Wenatchee, including wings, salads and burgers. July / August 2019

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Columbia Valley Brewing Where: 538 Riverside Drive Try: 3-Ceas Pale Ale With one of the most spacious areas for outdoor seating in Wenatchee, Riverside Pub, home of Columbia Valley Brewing, is a great place to enjoy beer and lunch in the sun. It’s familyfriendly, dog-friendly on the patio and situated close to the river and Apple Capital Loop Trail. This summer, look for the new 3-Ceas Pale Ale. The pale gets its name from three hop varietals: Citra, Cascade and Centennial. But don’t be scared off by the amount of hops, said brewer Brooke Saari. She said to expect something “balanced, easy-drinking, with a hop presence without being overpowering or bitter.” They always have a handful of their own brews on tap, in addition to guest taps, and a full food menu, including breakfast on the weekend.

Enjoy Columbia Valley Brewing’s 3-Ceas Pale Ale on the outdoor patio.

Badger Mountain Brewing Where: 1 Orondo Ave. Try: Bimbo Beach Blonde

Badger Mountain Brewing has four blondes on tap, with flavors including honey, apricot, coffee and spicy habanero. 24

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Badger Mountain Brewing offers a wide variety of its own brews, ranging from dark beers to hoppy IPAs and everything in between, but this summer, we recommend the blonde. Or should we say blondes. The brewery originally created the popular Bimbo Beach Blonde, a goesdown-easy honey blonde that can be spotted on taps around town. Since that original, they’ve also created the Apricot Blonde, Dirty Blonde (made with local Mela Coffee Roasting coffee) and the Hot Blonde (with a spicy habanero kick). Try a flight of all four to find your favorite and enjoy it in the brewery or outside on the patio. You can also enjoy burgers and other pub-style food or explore beers from outside the Wenatchee area with one of their many guest taps. F


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A sense of place

Mazama home reflects and honors its setting

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INSIDE HOME STORY BY DON NELSON PHOTOS BY SWIFT STUDIO Editor’s Note: This story first published in Methow Home 2019, a special publication produced by Methow Valley News.

Weathered wood, metal siding and steel beams used to build the Sands home are intended to make the house “look like it’s been there forever,” said builder Justin Hamlin of Impel Construction.

The Sands home near Mazama includes a 2,200-square-foot, three-bedroom main house, a 900-square-foot guest house and an 800-square foot bonus room over the semidetached garage, which is connected to the main house by a covered walkway.

C

olin Sands’ relationship with the Methow Valley began as child when his Skagit Valley family frequently visited friends who owned a cabin near Carlton — to fish in the summer and hunt in the fall. Years later, when Sands and his wife, Alisa, began scouting building sites in the Methow for a second home to accommodate their growing family and visitors, it was familiar territory for Colin. The search started about eight years ago. “We kept waiting for something to draw us to the place,” he said. The place that finally did that was a 2-plus-acre parcel in the Methow Meadows development, including the old Patterson homestead, between Highway 20 and the Methow River — a short walk, bike ride or ski trek from the Mazama Store.

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View-oriented windows that create a see-through effect are designed to break the barrier between inside and outside. 28

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The dining area offers big-window views of the natural surroundings.


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The Sands home was designed to blend in with its natural surroundings.

The Sands family — Colin, Alisa, Dylan, 5, Maren, 8, Aiden, 10, and two dogs — spend as much time in the Methow as possible. The location suits their desire to be step-out-the-door close to the valley’s many recreational offerings, to make space for lots of visitors with a separate guest house and to create a home and setting that are welcoming, low-maintenance and Firewise safe. Another expectation that architect Dan Nelson of Designs Northwest Architects in Stanwood was asked to meet was to make sure the home — in

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Clockwise from bottom left: The Sands home was built to accommodate up to 17 people, allowing them to host extended family and friends. The home includes a private bath area with a view. The expansive entryway to the main house includes a giant Scrabble board. an open meadow easily visible from the state highway — did not seem intrusive and blended with its natural surroundings. “The challenge was to build a house that doesn’t look like it’s in the middle of an alfalfa field, Colin said. The answer was found in a modestly scaled profile and appropriate 30

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building materials. Builder Justin Hamlin of Stanwood-based Impel Construction said the materials — including weathered wood, metal siding and steel beams — are intended to make the house “look like it’s been there forever.” “It’s a resilient design,” Nelson said. All the materials were used creatively

Methow Valley News photo

to increase the home’s fire-resistance, he said. The steel support beams on concrete footings create the impression in some places that the home’s gracefully aging skeleton has been exposed. Metal fabrication work was handled by locals Tim Odell and Alpine Welding.


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The exterior requires little maintenance. “We didn’t want to ever repaint or strip, stain and re-seal,” Colin said. The site takes advantage of Firewise principles and, except for one small patch of grass, includes all natural plants and grasses with an irrigation system that can saturate

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Rocks uncovered during site preparation were stored and later used as part of the landscaping around the home. “It helped the home achieve Firewise status,” said builder Justin Hamlin.

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the entire site if there if there is a fire threat. Landscaping is by Scott Perryman of Goat Wall Landscaping. The development area dates back a couple of decades to the days of a planned massive resort area near Mazama, Colin said. When the resort plan failed, property owners eventually got together with the Methow Conservancy to create a conservation easement, reduce the number of buildable lots, and preserve views and river access. The literal groundbreaking for the Sands’ home was a figurative groundbreaking as well for the meadow. It was the first home to be built there. The Sands at first wanted a Craftsman-style house. In conversations with Hamlin, the Sands were persuaded to consider instead a “Northwest modern” concept. The Sands were then introduced to architect Nelson. Impel and Designs Northwest are regular collaborators. “We do a lot of work with Justin. He’s an amazing

builder,” Nelson said. Impel, which has an office on the TwispWorks campus, now has completed or is working on a total of six projects in the Methow Valley. “Justin loves modern architecture and encouraged Colin to go in that direction,” Nelson said. It took a couple of years to work out the orientation for the home and guesthouse and finalize a design. Impel broke ground in 2016, and the house was “substantially complete” by early 2018, Colin said. The site includes the 2,200-square-foot, threebedroom main house, a 900-squarefoot guest house, and an 800-square foot “bonus room” over the semidetached garage, which is connected to the main house by a covered walkway. All told, the buildings can put 17 people in beds, Colin said. “The key to the design was to have it fit their lifestyle,” Nelson said, “and having lots of options for friends and family.” F


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ummers are meant for fun, relaxation and the outdoors, whether it be your backyard or the nearby hills and forest.

We asked some of our advertisers to share their version of summer. It’s part of a semi-regular feature we call Focus.

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LIFESTYLE STORY BY MARLENE FARRELL PHOTOS BY KEVIN FARRELL

Backyard Fresh

Egg-producing chickens are their own reward

C

arol Ann Seaman of Leavenworth knows the problem with having chickens that produce a regular supply of eggs. “Farm-fresh eggs are so delicious, we’ve become egg snobs,” said Carol Ann Seaman. Her family has been raising chickens for more than 10 years. There are obvious benefits to farm-fresh eggs that go beyond the taste. Eggs from backyard chickens are known to have more vitamins, Omega-3 fatty acids and lower saturated fat and cholesterol. This, combined with the idea of eating local — it doesn’t get any more local than your own backyard — draws many people to join the growing urban farming movement, build a coop and get some baby chicks. 42

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This sign hangs on the Bjorklund-Swan chicken coop.


Shawn Seaman holds Speckled Jim, named after a pigeon from the British TV show “Blackadder.” July / August 2019

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Chicks find wet ground on a hot, summer day.

Hens typically have a favorite nesting spot. 44

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The BjorklundSwan chickens use a homemade water feeder.


Carol Ann remembered how it started for her. “When we decided to get chickens, I made three rules: cute, clean and I wouldn’t deal with dead chickens. So we built a beautiful, gabled chicken coop painted periwinkle blue with white gingerbread trim,” she said. “It has a drop-down door in front where the nesting boxes are, so we don’t have to go into the ‘poop area’ to retrieve eggs.” Carol Ann and husband Shaun and daughter Claire added a creative touch to their coop design by mimicking the house in “American Gothic,” with a decorative front window and a curtain. The coop sits on the other side of a fence from their garden. Before planting and after harvest, the chickens have access to the garden. “They help knock down the plants and till and fertilize the soil,” Carol Ann said. For the rest of the season, the garden is off limits. “We also don’t let them in our yard as they are very clever at finding and eating the exact plants we love the most,” she said. “And they like to poop on our front door step.” The Seamans have five hens, each of a different breed. Carol Ann said they like the variety and the different colored eggs the hens lay. “This way we can tell which chickens are productive and which are slackers,” she said. “Not that we are demanding of them, just as a point of

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Matilda Swan gives her chickens a treat. 46

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Above: Fresh eggs can be stored at room temperature for about a week, but once put in the fridge, they need to stay there. Left: Sofia Bjorklund and daughter Matilda like to raise their own food. 48

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interest and to make sure everyone is healthy and happy.” Claire, now in college, considers having hens part of a green lifestyle. “Raising chickens and growing a garden helps reduce a portion of our consumerism,” she said. “I’ll definitely have chickens when I have the opportunity.” Younger children make great assistant caretakers, says Sofia Bjorklund of Leavenworth. Her daughters Matilda and Emma help with collecting eggs, taking out chicken scraps and chasing chickens. “They aren’t quite old enough to handle the water system, but probably soon,” Sofia said. “Filling up the feed container is also a job for a stronger person. The bags are heavy.” It’s about more than sharing the work. “Having my children learn where their food comes from is an important part of why we do this,” she said. Matilda named off their flock — Midnight, Rock, Roll, Forest and Pepper. And her favorite chores? “I get the eggs, and I can catch them,” she said. The Bjorklund-Swans kept their costs down by building their coop using repurposed lumber and metal roofing. They also share the costs and benefits of having 10 hens with their neighbors. “Sharing chickens is great,” said Sofia. “If our family is gone, our neighbors are most likely home. We don’t need to call on other friends to check on the chickens. We take turns cleaning the coop and usually try to pick eggs every other day.” Observation of hen behavior can lead to better rearing practices. For instance, the Bjorklund-Swan hens have a clear hierarchy. The lowest members have bare bottoms from where their flock mates have plucked out their feathers. It’s due in part to the fact that chickens will eat feathers if they need a little more protein or calcium. Sometimes chickens will peck out of boredom too, so Sofia tries to make sure they get outside exploring time. They’ve also learned that chickens like to take dirt baths to keep down pests, so their chicken run includes a big bin of dirt, which is particularly useful in winter when the ground is frozen.

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Jennifer Black keeps one or more roosters so she can replenish her flock with chicks.

Jennifer Black’s chicken coop is near an apricot tree, giving her hens a sweet treat during the summer. Jennifer Black of Sunnyslope gets to observe a lot of animal behavior, because she has 25 chickens and three roosters, as well as ducks, goats and horses. Speaking of their hierarchy, Black said, “When they roost, they like the highest bar in the corners. They’ll jockey for the 50

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best positions.” Where there are roosters, there are also baby chicks. Black explained that broodiness has mostly been bred out of hens, so one of her ducks took over rearing three chicks last year, along with her own ducklings.

What about chickens’ instinct to fly? “Certain individuals like to fly,” Black said. Thankfully, people are smarter than hens. “If you clip the wings on only one side, they’ll fly sideways and never learn to compensate for the difference.” The Blacks’ operation, while


Jennifer Black keeps one or more roosters so she can replenish her flock with chicks.

smaller than the commercial farm on which Jennifer grew up, still provides them with about 15 eggs a day (more in the summer, less in the winter). “We sell a lot of eggs. We use an honor system for payment. And selling eggs covers my costs,� Jennifer said. F

Black sells eggs to neighbors on the honor system. July / August 2019

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THE VINE STORY BY RICK STEIGMEYER PHOTOS BY PAUL T. ERICKSON

On the move 52

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T Horan Estates Winery and Crayelle Cellars remain business neighbors after both wineries relocated from Cashmere to Wenatchee this spring.

Horan, Crayelle are tasting room neighbors in Wenatchee

wo of the region’s most revered wineries have moved out of their long-established Cashmere tasting rooms. Sad news for Cashmere perhaps, but good news for Wenatchee, which the tasting rooms now call home. Horan Estates Winery and Crayelle Cellars moved tasting rooms to new side-by-side locations in downtown Wenatchee, beneath the skywalk between the Wenatchee Convention Center and the Coast Wenatchee Center Hotel. The location — known as backstage alley — is next to the rear stage entrance to the Wenatchee Performing Arts Center and behind the same building that houses the Wenatchee Valley Chamber of Commerce, an organization with a mission, among other tasks, to direct visitors to local wineries. July / August 2019

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Left: Danielle and Craig Mitrakul own Crayelle Cellars. They moved their tasting room from Cashmere to downtown Wenatchee. Above: Reds, whites and rosés line the shelves at the new Crayelle Cellars tasting room.

With two new tasting rooms — along with Stemilt Creek Winery on Wenatchee Avenue — the chamber now has a wealth of walking distance offerings besides the rotating assortment of local wines and maps it offers to promote local wineries.

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Horan Estates owners Beth and Dennis Dobbs took over the reins of the family-owned business in 2012. “It’s exciting to have new neighbors. We have our own little wine country going here,” said Jan Lutz, a chamber visitor host. Sandy Appel, another chamber visitor host, said with new growth in apartments and hotels close to the downtown area, she anticipates more wineries will choose to open tasting rooms downtown as buildings have openings. “It’s a great location. We couldn’t be happier,” said Danielle Mitrakul, co-owner with her husband Craig, of Crayelle Cellars. She said they’ve been waiting for the right place and time to move their tasting room to Wenatchee, where they live and are busy raising their children. “It’s all about the timing,” she said. With new riverfront dwellings, new shops and more activities happening in the downtown core, Mitrakul said the opportunity to move was irresistible. She said the decision was especial56

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ly attractive to move in concert with Horan Estates. Crayelle and Horan opened their early tasting rooms across the hall from each other in Cashmere’s Mission District in 2009. The new tasting rooms have contrasting but complementary atmospheres. Crayelle has gone modern, Horan more vintage. “We love being close to Crayelle. We’ve been great partners for 10 years,” said Beth Dobbs, Horan Estates co-owner with her husband Dennis. Dobbs said it was hard to leave Cashmere but the opportunity to be part of Wenatchee’s revitalization was impossible to pass up. “We wanted to be part of the excitement here. It’s been an amazing time,” she said. Sue Warren, Horan Estate tasting room manager, said business has been constant since they first opened during Wenatchee’s Apple Blossom Festival in early May.

“Business was good in Cashmere, but this is such a better location because of what’s happening here,” Warren said. “It’s like a sleeping town waking up. You can just feel it. The vibe is there.” The Horan Estate space is the larger of the two tasting rooms and includes an events center that is almost always booked for social gatherings, parties, meetings and sip-and-paint classes, said Monica Greedy, the Horan tasting room events coordinator. The two wineries partnered with building developer and co-owner Rory Turner. The fully remodeled building also houses the chamber, offices for Goodfellow Bros. Construction and a restaurant, with other businesses to come. Crayelle Cellars and Horan Estates need little introduction for those who follow North Central Washington wines. Crayelle’s winemaker, Craig Mitrakul, was winemaker


Framed versions of the HVH blend lable that hang on the Horan Estates tasting room wall are inspired by Helen Vandivort Horan, also known as “Gammie.�

The new Horan tasting room has an events room in the back for private tasting sessions, as well as comfortable seating in the main area. July / August 2019

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Above: Wine glasses with the Horan Estates logo await wine fans to stop by for a pour at the new tasting room location in downtown Wenatchee. Right: Beautiful weather and a crisp Crayelle rosé make a great summertime combination.

for several pioneering and awardwinning wineries in the area including Ryan Patrick Vineyards and Saint Laurent Estate Winery. He’s worked and consulted for wineries throughout the Northwest, New York and Australia and is currently head wine and sparkling wine director for Karma Cellars in Chelan. He and Danielle started Crayelle Cellars 10 years ago as a boutique winery they purposely keep small to focus on highest quality, Danielle said. Horan Estates was started in 2003 by Doug McDougall, who a few years 58

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earlier planted a vineyard along with apples on the Frenchman Hills near Royal City. The Horan name comes from his mother’s family who were Wenatchee pioneers. McDougall in 2012 handed the reins of the vineyard and winery to his cousin, Beth Dobbs and her husband Dennis, who is Horan’s winemaker. Horan’s multi-award-winning wines and their creative labels nod to Horan family members, all who played significant and colorful roles in Wenatchee history. F

Horan Estates Winery (509) 679-0554 horanestateswinery.com 15 N. Second St., Suite 101

Crayelle Cellars (509) 393-1996 crayellecellars.com 15 N. Second St., Suite 103


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UPON FURTHER REVIEW

A TASTE OF NCW WITH BARB ROBERTSON

Milbrandt Vineyards 2018 RosĂŠ, $13

Concentric Wine Project 2018 Sparkling Pinot Gris, $30

Independent Cider Lavender Perry, $7

Syrah is the dominant grape varietal with Tempranillo adding more complexity. A delicate coral pink makes for a pretty presentation. This rose’ is like slipping on a light, cozy, cashmere sweater on a cool summer night. The aromatics include pomegranate, passionfruit and orange peel. The palate is plush but has a steely bright core. Tart red fruit, blackberry off the vine and a fresh basil note make for a satisfying sip. Grapes come from the vineyards of Katherine Leone, Ravenscliff and the Wahluke Slope. Pairing this with sushi and the setting sun will bring a smile to your lips.

The Concentric Wine Project was created by Fielding Hills winery for experimentation with different grape varietals and wine styles. This Pinot Gris was produced in the Pet Nat style, short for Petillant Naturel. The process allows the wine to complete fermentation in the bottle, trapping the naturally produced carbon dioxide and voila, bubbly wine. The bubbles lift up the lemon blossom and melon notes to tickle your nose. The palate is crisp but also has a creamy mid palate that reminds me of the French pastry, cannele. The melon joins crunchy pear and Granny Smith apple for a zippy finish. Serve very cold. Make sure you try the Concentric Gamay Noir, too. This is the red equivalent of the Pinot Gris and makes for a perfect summer sipper with juicy red berry, cherry and herbal notes that are both flavorful and light. Both wines are available by the bottle at the Fielding Hills tasting room near Chelan and at Norwood Wine Bar in downtown Wenatchee.

Close your eyes while sipping this semi-dry anjou perry and you can imagine yourself at Senanque Abbey in the Provence region of France surrounded by hills of purple flowers. The cider drinks like a fine wine laced with lavender. The essence of flowers did not come from Provence, but from the Lavender Boutique in East Wenatchee. Similar to roses, lavender has many different nuances and great care was taken to choose the lavender varietal that would bring out the best in the pears. The pears for the perry are from the Dryden Remley Orchard, which dates to the early 1900s. The local ingredients create a beautiful and unique experience with florals, herb, honey and delicate crisp pear flavors. The ABV is 5.8%. Independent Cider was named Best New Cidery of the Year at the 2019 Portland International Cider Cup.

Barb Robertson City: Wenatchee Credentials: Earned advanced certification through London-based Wine and Spirit Education Trust; currently working toward higher-level diploma through WSET. Earned degree in marketing from Central Washington University. Owned The Wine Bin retail shop in Wenatchee for five years, as well as the Mission Street Bistro Wine 60

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Bar for 14 years. Has worked in the Northwest wine industry for more than 15 years, including sales, production and marketing. Was a judge for the 2011-18 Wenatchee Wine & Food Festival wine competition, the 2017 and 2018 Cascadia Wine Competition and the Washington State Fair 2015-16.


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Happy anniversary:

THE SCENE PHOTOS BY ELIJAH LARSON

Lake Chelan AVA

More than a dozen wineries from the Chelan Valley poured their wines at a June 8 event.

T

he Lake Chelan American Viticultural Area celebrated its 10-year anniversary in grand style with Vintage Lake Chelan, a two-day party in early June that shined a spotlight on what makes the area one of the world’s top wine destinations. A grand tasting at the newly opened Larc Hill Vineyard Ranch highlighted the weekend. The tasting featured wines from more than 20 wineries that source their grapes from the Lake Chelan AVA. The Lake Chelan Chamber of Commerce and the Lake Chelan Wine Alliance were among the event sponsors. F

Larc Hill Vineyard Ranch was site of the Lake Chelan AVA anniversary party. 62

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Erica and Brock Lindsay


Olivia Plew and Mike Steele

Sherry Fisk and Gene Anthony

Kenney Crowder, center, and Ali Blanton, right, from Radiance Winery chat with a guest.

Michelle Fanton from Tunnel Hill Winery talks wine with a party guest. The Bob Soost Trio provided musical entertainment.

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